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    The 10 Best Car Clear Coats to Buy 2020

    Everyone wants a car that looks brand new even after years of ownership and thousands of miles on the clock. The simplest way to keep your paintwork looking sharp is to keep it protected by a strong clear coat varnish.
    A quality clear coat refreshes and protects the factory paint job on your car, makes colors more vibrant, and creates a shell over the bodywork, shielding your ride from minor scratches, dings, and other damage. Keep reading to see

    Picking the Best Clear Coat For Your Car
    A clear coat is exactly what the name suggests it is. It’s literally a clear coat of paint, with no color or other pigmentation added to it.
    Clear coats are applied to your car as a final step, on top of the other layers of paint. Because it has zero pigment and is completely clear, a clear coat sits on top of the existing color and acts as a varnish or second skin. Here is what you want to keep in mind while shopping for clear coat paints.
    Finish and Gloss
    One of the biggest reasons to buy a clear coat is to enhance the look of your paintwork. Some clears have higher gloss levels than others, for example, SpeedoKote Ultra High Gloss Glamour Clear has one of the highest levels of gloss we’ve ever seen, and that leads to a much better-looking finish. Obviously, this also means a little more work to polish it out, but we think it’s worth the effort.
    How the Coat is Applied
    There are three ways to apply clear, by spraying it on and wiping, by rattle-can spray, and by professional paint spray-gun.
    The first two methods are generally more suitable for single panels and spot work because you’re not going to get the same even coverage as you would with a spray-gun. But there’s a cost investment with spray guns, and it might not be worth picking up an expensive kit just to apply a clear coat to your car every couple of years.
    Ease of Application
    Spray cans or hand-applied clears are also much easier to apply. A spray clear requires a lot of initial setup and might lead to other issues like ambient temperature control or extensive preparation.
    Toughness and Resistance
    The second reason to apply a clear coat is to protect your car’s finish. If you’re not looking to maximize gloss and finish, you’re probably looking for the best protection you can find.
    A clear like KBS DiamondFinish is incredibly tough, giving the best level of protection against impact damage, environmental issues, and chemicals.
    Lifespan
    No paint job lasts forever. The lifespan of a clear is based around many factors, but can include the quality of the application, where the vehicle is stored, how often you drive it, and environmental factors like how hot your summers are and how acidic the local rain is.
    Most good clear coats will last at least a year or two, and some can last up to five.
    Cost
    No one has an infinite budget, and monetary cost is an obvious concern when you’re buying a new product. Most clears aren’t expensive, especially spray application clears. A lot of the cost can come from supplementary costs, like cleaning materials, spray-gun attachments, and more.
    Types of Top Coats
    Not all clear coats are created equal. There are different types of clear coat varnish, which are all suited for different situations.
    Topcoat Clear Coat
    A topcoat clear coat is what can be thought of as the standard clear coat. It’s generally applied as a last step by the manufacturers, over the base paint. Topcoats are normally simple to polish, give a glossy finish, and dry fast.
    Turbo Clear Coat
    Turbo coats are designed for a quick fix. They’re great for repairing paintwork after a crash, and help to cover superficial damage from scratches and dents. Turbo coats need a lot of polishing, but dry fast and buff to a glossy finish.
    Glamor Clear Coat
    A glamor clear coat is moisture resistant and takes a long time to dry, but buffs to a super glossy, showroom finish.
    Higher-Solid Clear Coat
    Expensive, and harder to apply because of the thickness and the extra drying time, higher solid coats provide the best level of protection, and are the correct choice if you live in an area with tougher weather conditions.

    Top 10 Best Clear Coats for Cars 2020

    1. Best Overall Pick: SpeedoKote SMR-130

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    Why we like it: Trusted by professionals, SpeedoKote is diamond hard and buffs to a professional shine, without the hard work that a lot of other brands demand.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    The biggest reason we rate SpeedoKote so highly and the main reason it’s at the top of our list is the incredible level of protection it offers.
    Once SpeedoKote has been applied correctly, it dries into a rock hard armored shell, which provides protection against almost everything your vehicle could face out on the road. SpeedoKote is the full package. It’s tough against impact, has fantastic UV sun damage protection, oil and chemical defense, including road cleaning chemicals, and one of the strongest weather resistances on the market.
    How it Looks
    Compared to other clear coats, SpeedoKote acrylic urethane clear coat goes on incredibly smoothly, and dries to a very high gloss, top quality shine. Once it’s dry, SpeedoKote is easy to buff, without many of the issues you might face from cheaper brands, for example, major smearing. That makes SpeedoKote a great product for amateurs as well as professionals.
    Car detailers, driving teams, and other experienced professionals trust SpeedoKote to protect their vehicles. If it’s good enough for a seven-figure track car, it’s good enough for you.
    Ease of Use
    The only real downside with SpeedoKote products is how difficult they are to use. They are designed as a professional level solution, which means you’re going to have to have a decent setup to apply it correctly. The minimum is a garage and a spray gun, but being able to control the temperature and minimize dust particulates is also recommended.
    The package comes with one gallon (128 ounces) of clear coat mixture and one quart (32 ounces) of activator. The product is mixed in a 4:1 ratio, which activates it and gives you a short window to spray it down. Once the coat is applied, it touch dries in minutes, and it is ready to buff in as little as 4 to 6 hours.
    SpeedoKote should be applied at a temperature between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. When you’re mixing, it’s also worth being careful about how much you use. The standard gallon is generous and far , so it’s deceptively simple to over mix and end up with waste. SpeedoKote clear coats can be more expensive than other products, but when you factor in the long shelf life, one purchase could easily keep your car safe several times over.

    Pros

    Fantastic protection against everything
    High gloss, beautiful finish
    USA made, to match US car standards

    Cons

    Needs a spray gun to apply

    2. Best for Paint Matching: Dupli-Color Clear Exact Match Top Coat

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    Why we like it: Dupli-Color is designed to match perfectly to your existing car’s color. If you need to touch up damage or color match a panel, choose Dupli-Color.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    Dupli-Color has been in business for 60 years, and it shows. This clear coat requires the standard 3 layers to provide sufficient protection, but once those layers have been applied the resulting finish is a tough and hard-wearing glossy shell.
    It’s resistant to all of the usual suspects, protecting your paintwork from weather effects, salt, oil, chemicals, UV, scratches, and dings. While it doesn’t have the same level of protection as some more dedicated clears, you can always choose to apply more layers if protection is something you need.
    How it Looks
    Dupli-Color is a premium automotive clear coat, and it shows. When you order it, you order based on the existing paint job. Dupli-color can be ordered to precisely match the shade list of your vehicle, and each spray is formulated to provide the best finish possible, down to the precise year your car was made.
    Spray cans like these can be harder to apply evenly over large areas, so we recommend a clear coat like this one for smaller touch-up jobs. If you need to cover an entire car, or you’re respraying several major panels, it could be worth either purchasing or hiring a spray gun, or going to a professional.
    A rattle can like this is never going to match the appearance of a clear coat applied using a spray gun, and might require more buffing for an even finish. But with a little care and elbow grease, a can or two of Dupli-Color will leave your car looking fantastic, with a strong, clear gloss shine.
    Ease of Use
    Dupli-Color clear coats are made to color match your car’s existing paintwork, down to the year it rolled off the assembly. It’s compatible with all standard OEM paint finishes, and it’s designed to be used after you apply a new layer of spray paint. The list of compatible vehicles goes back over 50 years, so no matter what you’re driving you’ll be able to find the perfect coat.
    Spray cans are the easiest type of clear coat to use, so even first-timers should be able to get an even finish. Dupli-Color cans are designed specifically for use on bodywork, with an EZ touch 360 nozzle which is simple to use and lays down the clear coat evenly, minimizing streaks and other problems. Be careful in cooler weather though, as that can cause the nozzle to clog.
    Unlike a lot of clear coats, Dupli-Color dries incredibly quickly. Some coats can take upwards of a day to dry fully, but Dupli-Color is touch-dry in 30 minutes, and ready to handle in 60 minutes. Most clear coats need multiple layers, and the short drying time means you could do this in a day, saving you massive amounts of time and getting your vehicle back on the road as fast as possible.
    The downside of spray cans is that they’re not designed to cover an entire car’s bodywork. Instead, it should be used for small scale touch-up jobs, body damage, and matching car accessories.
    On the upside, you get a lot of paint for the money, and it’s very reasonably priced, making this the perfect choice for protecting repairs or damages.

    Pros

    Suitable for any vehicle, with any paint job
    No mix, no fuss, easy to spray and apply
    Dries incredibly fast

    Cons

    One can will only cover one panel with three coats, on average
    You might have to abandon the can with a small amount left in it, because of spatter

    3. Best Premium Pick: KBS Coatings 8304 DiamondFinish Clear Coat

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    Why we like it: A super hard coat that’s designed for performance and great for harsh weather
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    KBS DiamondFinish makes good on its name. Once it’s down and dried, it’s almost invincible. It’s a single part formula with 60 percent solids. This leads to a much tougher finish than you find with two-part, unmixed clear coats, which are most other clear coats on the market.
    The coat itself is flexible, which minimizes chipping, peeling, and flaking. Sometimes, clear coats need replacing way before they should because of a scratch or chip that spreads, and this minimizes that.
    It boasts strong environmental protection, including UV. It’s great against oxidation and yellowing, and resistant to harsh weather. Finally, the coat is highly heat resistant, which means this is suitable for the protection of cylinder heads and engine blocks.
    How it Looks
    We’re not going to lie. Compared to high-gloss performance clear coats, KBS DiamondFinish doesn’t have quite the same level of shine.
    It’s only a semi-gloss finish, and will be ready to polish within 24 hours of application. With this in mind, it’s better for vehicles aimed at the race track and performance cars whose paintwork is already high-gloss, or vehicles that are going to see a lot of hard wear and tear, like trucks and vans.
    Ease of Use
    Despite being designed for industrial use, with applications that go beyond cars and vans and into domestic and marine machinery, KBS DiamondFinish is surprisingly simple to use.
    You’re still going to need a spray gun or roller brush to apply this, but unlike a lot of other clear coats, it’s very user friendly. For a start, it can be used directly on metal, so you can treat chrome and other exposed metalwork as well as engines in the same coat without worrying about flaking or peeling.
    Two, it can be applied directly over existing paintwork. Some clear coats need a brand new coat of paint to effectively bond, and if applied over existing paint that’s been dry for longer than a few days, won’t lay correctly and will quickly peel back.
    Supposedly, KBS DiamondFinish can be used with minimal surface preparation, letting you spray this directly onto your car. Though we would still prepare the area properly, wiping everything down to remove all particulates and other foreign objects that could cause a poor finish.
    You can buy exactly what you need, with pint, gallon, and quart options available, and you don’t need any extras or additives because it all comes as one ready-mixed package.

    Pros

    Unparalleled protection
    Heat and corrosion resistant
    Simple to apply for such a strong product

    Cons

    Expensive
    Only a semi-gloss finish

    4. Best Budget Pick: USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat

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    Why we like it: If you need to clear coat your car, but don’t have the options for something like SpeedoKote that requires expensive paint guns, USC Spray Max 2k is the next best thing. It’s as simple as using a can of spray paint, but still gives excellent results.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    For a single application spray, USC Spray Max 2k offers really good protection. The chemical resistance and all-weather coverage of the coat is really high, so this is great if you live somewhere that sees a lot of rain and snow. Like all clear coats, scratch resistance is down to how many layers you use, so if you’re worried about pebbles, debris, or branches damaging your paintwork, buy extra and put down at least 3 layers.
    There is a slight issue. Lack of UV coverage. Most modern paints are a lot more UV resistant, but if you’re driving an older vehicle and want to preserve the color of your paintwork, you might want to look at another product.
    How it Looks
    Once it’s dry, USC Spray Max leaves your car with a high gloss, durable finish. As one of the more basic spray cans, you’re not likely to get the same finish you would with a higher-end product.
    You also need to leave the coat for at least a week before wet sanding or buffing it to a polish. But with a little love and TLC, the results will come close to much more expensive products, for a lot less hassle and cost.
    Ease of Use
    Compared to most clear coats, USC Spray Max 2k is ridiculously easy to use. When your car is prepared, you activate the paint by pulling out the tab from a can, then giving it a good shake, just like spray paint. This breaks the internal seal and starts mixing the components. Packs start at two cans, which is enough for around one coat on an average-sized sedan.
    The cans are light and easy to hold, with a special nozzle that’s different to regular spray cans. It’s designed to work just like a spray gun nozzle, so you get a level, even and clear flow. It only takes a few minutes to cover a panel, making this by far the simplest product on our list.
    Spray Max 2k is great for quick jobs, touch-ups and repairs. As this is a rattle-can, it’s not suited for full-body coverage. If you’re careful it might be possible, but expect to have to buff out some streaks and runs. At this point, it might be worth considering whether you’d be better served dropping a little more cash on an air compressed spray gun and something like SpeedoKote.
    This clear coat can be applied to almost all vehicles without worry, and adheres to the basecoats on all vehicles with very little preparation. Just remember that once you’ve pulled the tab on the can the contents will start to cure, so has to be used within 48 hours of breaking the seal. That means, if you need to apply multiple coats from one can, you should budget time accordingly.

    Pros

    Simple to use and simple to apply
    Works on top of any base coat
    Budget cost

    Cons

    Only lasts 48 hours after activation
    Not suited for full vehicles

    5. Best Anti-Corrosion: POR-15 45718 Top Coat Gloss Clear

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    Why we like it: A dedicated anti-corrosion topcoat that can extend the life of metal that’s dying to rust.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    POR-15 is designed to prevent corrosion and other direct, physical threats to the paintwork of your vehicle. That makes this a fantastic option if you’re commonly driving longer distances, or driving on roads where you can expect your car to face chemical hazards.
    As mentioned, this can also be used on bare metal, so it’s great for sealing aluminum parts on an engine, or areas that have been chromed.
    One warning. Direct contact with oil will break down the clear coat. A quick spray down will fix the issue, but it’s something to bear in mind.
    How it Looks
    Despite being a clear coat that’s designed to fight against rust, the finish is really good. It blends well and buffs out easily, with no dry lines. Once it’s polished, you’ll be left with a high quality and super glossy finish.
    Ease of Use
    Ready to use out of the can, POR-15 can be used on paint or straight onto bare metal, with no primer or undercoat needed. Both common application options of spray can or ready mixed paint are available.
    For best results, wipe down the area you’re treating, and make sure you thoroughly clean off any rust first, because it doesn’t bond well at all with rust. It’s also worth applying an anti-rust solution once the area has been stripped down, like POR-15 rust preventative spray, to keep it clear for longer.
    While the formula has generally good adherence, for best results spray onto dry area, and don’t overspray, as it can dry to a gummy finish.

    Pros

    Excellent anti-corrosion and anti-rust formula
    Easy to use, with rattle-can and paint options
    Can be applied straight to bare metal

    Cons

    Oil attacks the formula

    6. Best for Wheels: VHT SP184 Clear Coat for Wheels

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    Why we like it: Expensive wheels need specialist protection, and VHT SP184 offers everything you need on the road. Heat shielding, chemical resistance, and general protection. It’s all there.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    The wheels on your car take the most beating. It stands to reason, as they’re the part that’s in contact with the road. Anything that gets kicked up, whether it’s dirt, oil, or chemicals, or even just plain old water spray, is going to hit them first and hit them hard.
    That means wheels can age a whole lot quicker than the rest of your car, and if you’ve invested in a decent set of alloys, watching them dull down or even corrode is heartbreaking.
    The main threat your wheels will face on the road is road-based chemicals and oils. VHT SP184 is designed to be chemical resistant, and works on all steel and aluminum wheels.
    The powerful formula resists cracking and fading, resists oxidation, and is strong enough to stand up to the rigors of long drives, salt, dust, even large stones. Finally, it’s temperature resistant up to 250 degrees, so the finish isn’t going to bubble or warp even if you’re running big sports discs and have to slam down on your brakes in an emergency situation.
    How it Looks
    VHT SP184 clear coat is a wet-look clear gloss. It’s designed to be used straight over paint, especially VHT’s wheel paints, which can be bought alongside the clear.
    As it’s so simple to use, it’s easy to get a professional finish, even if you’ve never done anything like this before. The finish lasts a long time, and even after several months will look like new after a quick wash and polish.
    Ease of Use
    VHT clear coat is a can based spray. It’s simple to use, and can be sprayed directly onto bare metal, primer, or finished paint straight out of the packaging. With a clear coat, especially a wheel paint like this one, most of the finish can be attributed to the preparation. Start by sanding down, cleaning, and degreasing your wheels.
    Once the wheels are prepared, spray a single light coat for coverage. VHT clear coat is touch dry in around thirty minutes, and dries completely overnight. Once that initial coat is dry, spray a second, thicker coat for protection and finish.
    Spray paints like these are more susceptible to runs, and you need to be especially careful when you’re using these as you’re not spraying onto large, flat panels. Make sure to spray from at least 12 inches away. It’s better to apply multiple smaller coats rather than one heavy one.
    A single can is probably not enough to cover a large set of wheels, especially if you drive a larger vehicle or a truck. Plan for at least two, possibly three cans.

    Pros

    Incredibly easy to use
    Good resistance to everything your car will face on the road
    Nice finish

    Cons

    Can nozzles can occasionally jam

    7. Best Anti-Rust: Rust-Oleum Automotive Gloss Clear Body Coat

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    Why we like it: A dependable and easy to use spray with fantastic rust protection
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    Rust-Oleum’s acrylic lacquer formula is very durable and offers long-lasting protection against all the usual threats, including UV, weather, and scratching.
    On top of the standard protection offered by clear coats, Rust-Oleum also offers great protection against rust, hence the name. Considering that rust is one of the issues that can cause the most damage with older cars, anything that can help you prevent that damage on your classic piece is great.
    How it Looks
    Rust-Oleum’s low volatile organic compound blend comes out shiny and sharp. It’s easy to polish, by hand or machine, and the rich formula can be buffed to an incredibly high-gloss finish.
    Ease of Use
    Rust-Oleum comes ready to use straight out of the tin. It’s easy to apply and sprays on smooth, but  requires a paint spray-gun system.
    Once it’s down, it’s touch dry in about half an hour and ready for more coats. Even better, with Rust-Oleum, unlike a lot of clear coats, there’s no recommended number of coats. That means you can lay down as many coats as you want, until you’re happy with the look and the level of protection you’re getting.
    It works on almost all acrylic enamels, so should work with your manufacturer, unless you’re rolling in some super-obscure bespoke paint job. Even then, it should be fine. Just check with the manufacturer first.

    Pros

    Light formula is easy to spray
    Can be thinned out as needed
    Dries to a protective shine that’s easily buffed

    Cons

    Packaging is terrible

    8. Best Full Kit: Color N Drive Deep Gloss Ceramic

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    Why we like it: If you don’t have any of the gear needed to apply a clear coat from your own home, this kit by Color N Drive has everything you need for the job, start to finish, in one box.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    Contrary to what you might think, a hand-applied clear coat can almost give you the same level of protection as a professionally applied clear that’s been laid down with a spray-gun.
    Once applied, this clear coat can last for up to 5 years. It’s supposed to last for around 150 washes,  according to the manufacturers, which translates out to washing your car about once every two weeks. However, if it’s not applied correctly or you face a lot of tough situations and rough weather it can start to peel sooner, after around one or two years.
    The protective coating is acid rain resistant, water and dirt repellent, as well as UV and calcium resistant.
    How it Looks
    Considering this is a clear that’s designed to be applied purely by hand, the result is impressive. It’s a deep, glossy shine that bonds with an enhances the color of any standard manufacturer’s paintwork.
    Ease of Use
    Color N Drive Deep Gloss is specifically designed to be as simple to use as possible. The idea is that someone with zero experience in car detailing could use this. The boxed kit contains everything you need to treat and coat your car with a solid, long-lasting clear coat.
    To use, you clean the car down, making sure that the surface is clean and free from anything that could cause the coat not to bond. Then spray it down with the included pre-treatment solution and spread it. Once dry, spray the ceramic clear coat over your car and spread this evenly with the included tools.
    Once the first coat is dry, repeat the process, then polish up to an even and glossy shine. It’s as simple as that. The kit supposedly contains enough solution for treating two cars, so you can quite easily treat your partner’s vehicle in addition to your own, or save the remainder and re-treat your own in a year or two.
    The only downside is how time-consuming the process is. Because you’re not using power tools, it can take a good half of a day to finish the whole process. But considering you should only have to do this once every few years, that’s not a huge ask.

    Pros

    Incredibly simple to use, and the whole kit is provided
    Good protection
    Decent finish, with a high gloss

    Cons

    Takes a little more elbow grease than some clear coats
    Bond might fail if the initial surface isn’t cleaned properly

    9. Best for Gloss: SpeedoKote Ultra High Gloss Glamour Clear

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    Why we like it: A ridiculously glossy, professional finish, balanced by the cost and fact that it’s a professional standard product that’s difficult to use.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    SpeedoKote Glamour Clear has a high amount of solids, which translates to increased protection over lower solid clears.
    The finish is tough, even after only the two recommended coats, and it has exceptional UV resistance, which is great as you’ve probably bought this with an eye to protecting the valuable look of your car.
    The only downside with high solid clears is their increased tendency to peel, so you might need to reapply this a little more often than other choices.
    How it Looks
    Let’s be fair, if you’re spending the money on SpeedoKote Ultra High Gloss, you’re buying it for the look.
    This clear coat is an elite level product that will give you a show level finish. It has the highest level of gloss and distinctness of image (DOI) out of any product on the market. DOI is how much light scatter you get from a surface, and the ridiculously high DOI of this clear coat means that you’re going to end up with a mirror finish on every panel, every time.
    Compared to other clear coats, you’re also looking at better than average leveling and high levels of gloss retention. Both of these things make this ideal for restorations of older paintwork, or regular re-application in the case of track cars.
    For professionals, the formula can be mixed at different thicknesses, letting you fine-tune the curing time and finish, and set it precisely to the look of your ride.
    Ease of Use
    To go alongside the professional quality finish is a professional difficulty of application. As with all SpeedoKote products, to apply this clear you’re going to need garage space and a spray-gun system.
    According to SpeedoKote themselves, the best way to apply this clear coat is with a spray-gun with a specific 1.3mm tip. Apply the first coat, then flash harden with a heat gun and leave for 10 minutes, before applying a second coat and leaving to dry.

    Pros

    The single best finish on the market
    Ultra-high gloss protective shell
    Good protection, especially against UV damage

    Cons

    Very expensive
    Harder to apply than other clear coats

    10. Best for General Use: TopCoat F11 Polish and Sealer

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    Why we like it: If you’re unsure about which clear coat to buy, and you don’t know what’s going to suit your vehicle, TopCoat F11 is a solid bet. It’s designed to be simple to use, and work on almost anything, including cars, boats, planes, even fabrics.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    Once treated with TopCoat, your paintwork is protected from the full range of problems your car might face on the road, including dust and debris, bird droppings and bug residue, acidic rain, and weathering.
    The application process also helps to cover up existing damage, including paint imperfections, scratches, and spiderweb cracks.
    TopCoat F11 is designed to work with more than just cars. It can apply a protective, hydrophobic coating to almost anything, including bikes, planes, boats, and other vehicles. It also works on non-porous building materials (anything not brick or concrete) and even fabrics. That means you can buy a kit and treat everything you have. Restore the water-resistance of biker jackets, gloss to leathers, even spray down your garden shed for extra protection.
    How it Looks
    TopCoat F11 is a combined sealant and polish. Because of this, getting a glossy, even finish is incredibly simple.
    It’s a single-step process that naturally improves color, hides imperfections, and brings paintwork up to a gleaming shine. It’s also designed to work alongside waxes and other polishes, lowering the time that it takes to wax your car by as much as half.
    Ease of Use
    TopCoat F11 is probably the simplest clear coat on our list. It’s a one-step application process that works on anything without and special preparation. But it’s still recommended that you clean down your car before application as you would with any other clear.
    It contains no volatile organic compounds, solvents, or abrasives and it’s odorless, meaning it can be safely used in tightly enclosed spaces without ventilation. F11 can also withstand high temperatures, making it safe to use on your engine, brakes and other parts that are exposed to heat, as well as on grills and stoves around the home.
    Finally, F11 is designed as a wax replacement, which means it polishes as it’s applied. You’re still going to need to go over the finish with the right tools, but it does save you time and money on wax.

    Pros

    Incredibly easy one-step application process
    Good value for money
    Suitable for use on almost anything

    Cons

    Not as protective as dedicated clear coats

    What You Need to Know When Buying a Clear Coat for Your Car
    Every clear coat is different. From the method of application to the finish, every individual brand does things differently. Here’s what you need to know:
    Why Does My Car Need a Clear Coat?
    Clear coats massively increase the protection your car has from damage to the exterior. A good clear coat can protect your car from the elements, including acidic rain and from paint fading through the sun’s UV rays. Thicker clear coats can even protect your paintwork from scratches and other visible damage, whether that be stones kicked up whilst driving, bushes and branches, or simple day to day wear.
    There are two reasons you might need to purchase and apply an aftermarket clear coat is simple.
    First, some car manufacturers apply a thin clear coat or don’t apply one at all. Because of the benefits of a clear coat, if you know that your car doesn’t have the protection of a clear coat paint job, buying and applying one yourself is a smart choice.
    Second, like all paintwork, a clear coat slowly but surely wears out over time, meaning that it needs to be reapplied every few months to every few years, depending on outside conditions. With an older vehicle, or if you regularly drive on roads that are heavily salted, oily, or treated with chemicals, reapplying a clear coat to keep your paintwork protected is a smart investment.
    What Are the Benefits of a Clear Coat?
    Clear coats sit on top of your paintwork and act as another defensive layer, but they also have other benefits, including:
    Increased Durability
    The main benefit of a clear coat. Another layer of paint protects the pigmented paint underneath, meaning that damage that would otherwise leave visible scratches or dents will just hit the clear.
    Enhancing Existing Paintwork
    A clear coat is much cheaper than a complete respray or spraying a panel. If you have a vehicle with tired or old looking paintwork, a clear coat can bring out the color and shine of existing paintwork.
    Manufacturer’s Necessity
    Some paints require a clear coat. For example, illusion powders need a clear coat because a clear coat has different light refraction properties to paint, setting off the paint underneath.
    Hiding Minor Damage
    Scratches and other tiny imperfections in the paintwork might not normally be seen but are visible when you’ve recently had the car waxed. These imperfections ruin an otherwise perfect finish, but a clear coat will fill in these gaps and help hide the issues.
    Selling Your Car
    People buy with their eyes, and first impressions matter. A lot of the time, people decide whether they want the car in the first few seconds, and will only be put off if they find something wrong. Making your vehicle look as glossy and clean as possible can tip the scales when it comes to the buyer getting out their credit card.
    How Do I Prepare My Car for Applying a Clear Coat?
    Like all paint jobs, the key to an even and attractive clear coat is all about preparation. Make sure you have everything ready before you begin.
    Check your base coat for imperfections. Clear coats will do nothing to hide bumps, smears, swirls, or dirt. It can potentially make the issue worse by highlighting these problems, and once the clear coat is down, there is nothing you can do to fix the problem besides strip the paintwork down to nothing and start again.
    If you can, test your clear coat before you spray anything valuable. You can test on a scrap piece if you have anything available, or a piece of flat, glossy card.
    Most clear coat varnishes require multiple layers. Start light and build up. Applying a heavy first layer can cause shrinkage in the paint, which might lead to early cracks or peeling.
    Spray at a distance of around 6 to 8 inches, unless your specific product says to do differently. Any closer can cause bubbles or dripping, and too far can lead to irregular coverage.
    Your last coat should look the same as it will once the coat is dry. If your final layer of clear coat isn’t glossy, reapply the coat or stop and assess what’s going wrong.
    Prepping your car when you spray your clear coat also depends on how you’re applying it. There are two situations when you will be applying a clear coat; when you’re re-spraying a panel or a whole vehicle or spraying clear coat over the existing paintwork to spot fix.
    How to Apply a Clear Coat Over New Paintwork.
    Begin by following the manufacturer’s instructions for the base coat of paint you are applying to your vehicle.
    Once the basecoat has dried for the appropriate amount of time, make sure it is clean and dry.
    Apply the clear coat straight over the top, as if it was another coat of paint.
    Some clear coats may require multiple layers. Check the manufacturer’s instructions before applying.
    Once the clear coat is applied, leave to dry, then buff to a shine.
    How to Apply a Clear Coat Over Existing Paintwork or Repair a Patch of Damaged Clear Coat.
    Begin by wet sanding the area that needs to be sprayed until it’s smooth.
    If reapplying clear coat over an existing surface, you will also need to feather the edges where the new clear coat meets the old.
    Clear the area to be treated with a degreasing finish cleaner.
    Once the degreasing cleaner is dry, wipe the area down to make sure it is free from dust.
    Apply your clear coat as you would any other vehicle paint.
    Once My Clear Coat is Applied, Can it Be Waxed?
    Almost certainly. A clear coat is just another coat of paint, and applying a good quality wax on the top of a well-applied clear coat can act as another level of defense.
    If you’ve recently applied a clear coat, it’s best to leave your car for 4 to 6 weeks to give it time to fully cure. Once a decent time has passed, you’re free to buff your pride and joy to a gleaming shine as much as you want.
    It’s still worth checking the instruction of your favorite wax, because some waxes can be too high grain or rough for a thinner clear coat. Modern clear coat paints can be crazy thin, down to as little as 30 microns, (30 millionths of one centimeter) thick.
    It’s also worth being careful when applying the wax, as rubbing too hard or using a rougher cloth for a long time in one area can wear away a newer clear coat before it has time to properly treat and harden.
    What Can Cause My Clear Coat to Peel Off?
    No clear coat is going to last forever, and a sign that your clear coat needs replacing is peeling, either in one place or across the whole body of your vehicle. Here’s a few things that can cause a clear coat to start peeling:
    Environmental damage: This is one of the most common causes of a clear coat starting to peel. Ultraviolet light from the sun is an oxidizer, and over time it’s going to damage your clear coat by burning the external surface, making it rough and turning it white.There are two ways to deal with this. The first is to minimize sun exposure by keeping your car out of the sun when it’s not being used (another reason to clear out your garage.) The second is to wax your car often, which provides a second barrier against UV damage.
    Impacts from debris can cause a tiny chip in your clear coat, which can start to peel away from the rest of the car. If you have a single small peeling area, it’s possible that your paintwork was hit by something like a small pebble. If this is the case, you probably don’t need to replace the whole coat, and can just touch fix it.
    If you’ve recently received your car from the factory, and the clear coat is already starting to peel, there might have been an issue in the factory. The most common cause of this is the clear coat being applied a little too long after the main paintwork was finished.
    Where is the Best Place to Apply My Clear Coat?
    A clear coat, like all types of spray painting, is susceptible to environmental conditions. Excess heat or cold, humidity, or strong wind conditions can ruin the finish before you even apply the first layer of varnish. It’s best to apply your clear coat in a garage if possible, because that gives you the best control over your environment.
    If you don’t have access to a garage, wait for a day that has mild weather with low wind conditions. This is going to minimize the chances that you’re going to have issues when applying your clear coat. But this is still risky. No one can control the weather, and a sudden rain shower or burst of wind can spoil everything.
    Do I Have to Mask My Windows when Applying a Clear Coat?
    Yes. Just like when you’re painting bodywork with color paint, you will have to mask your windows to prevent the clear coat from getting onto the glass.
    Once you’ve covered your window with masking film, you’re free to coat your car with a clear coat. It’s always worth leaving the masking film in place until the clear coat is completely dry.
    If you do make a mistake and end up with clear somewhere on a window, it buffs easily out of glass with ultra-fine steel wool (0000 gauge is the recommended,) and some warm soapy water.
    Can I Still Use Car Washes After I’ve Treated My Car with a Clear Coat?
    This is a difficult question. Whilst car washes themselves aren’t going to damage your clear coat, if any dirt or grain is picked up during the process and ground against the bodywork, it will almost certainly cause damage to your clear coating.
    Modern car washes have systems built into them that pick up when the machinery has grabbed hold of a pebble or some dirt, so this is less of a problem with machine car washes than you might think.
    The problem is manual car washes. It’s much easier for a person with a cloth to pick up a tiny stone and carve a layer out of your clear coat without noticing. The worst part of this is that you might not notice until a few days later when it starts to peel away, and at that point there is nothing you can do except strip your paint down and start again.
    If you regularly take your car to a manual car wash, this is something you need to think about. As we’ve mentioned earlier, even using a cloth that’s too rough can take the surface off of a clear coat, so make sure that the people washing your car are using soft towels and mild waxes.
    Final Thought
    If you’ve got the tools, a clear coat that is applied using a spray-gun, like either of the SpeedoKote products in our list, are easily the best choice.
    It leads to a better finish and a tougher, more protective coating. While it takes a little more effort and set up, the results are more than worth it, and pay for themselves ten times over. More

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    Aston Martin DB5 Goldfinger Continuation: Fake Guns, But a Real DB5

    The biggest problem with the Aston Martin DB5 Goldfinger Continuation is always going to be one of discipline. The stoplight that stays red too long, the pedestrian who steps out without looking, the bully in the SUV that cuts you off—how long could you resist the temptation to deploy the twin .303-caliber machine-guns? Similarly, could you stave off the urge to deploy a smoke screen, or even an oil slick, in the face of a determined tailgater? What about the ability to instantly switch license plates before (or after) committing a moving traffic violation? “Me, officer? No, it must have been that other Silver Birch DB5.”
    Unlikely as it seems, we are suffering from a confusing surfeit of James Bond-inspired DB5 replicas. Back in February, we told you about the carbon-fiber-bodied stunt version that was created for the latest outing in the long-running franchise, the delayed No Time To Die. Despite looking almost identical and also being produced by Aston Martin, the DB5 Goldfinger is very different. It’s also way cooler—because of gadgets.

    View Photos

    Aston Martin

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    Speaking of gadgets, it has pretty much a full set. The heritage Aston Martin Works division has followed up its official limited-run recreations of the DB4 GT and DB4 GT Zagato with a similarly perfect replica of the iconic DB5 that was created for the third official James Bond film, 1964’s Goldfinger. This was the first time that Britain’s least-secret secret agent, then played by Sean Connery, got to drive an Aston Martin. Thanks to the vivid imagination of production designer Ken Adam, it was also the first time 007 drove a car packed with a variety of lethal weaponry and defenses, something that immediately became a hallmark for the long-running franchise.
    The DB5 in Bond’s arsenal for Goldfinger included twin Browning machine-guns that deployed from behind the front turn signals, rotating license plates, front and rear bumper rams, a bulletproof metal screen that rose up behind the rear window, dispensers for smokescreens and oil slicks, radar, and what seemed at the time like an impossible futuristic idea: an in-car telephone headset. The secret agent’s ride also had rotary tire slashers that seemed to somehow deploy from within its wire wheels and even, most famously, a passenger-side ejector seat that Connery uses to rid himself of a gun-wielding thug with exceptionally poor reactions.
    Recreating most of these features for regular use proved a serious technical challenge, as the gadgets used on the cars used for filming were theatrical props. Chris Corbould, the Oscar-winning special-effects designer who has now worked on 15 Bond films, led a team to create replicas of the original alterations. Aston then worked out how to package them within what is, beneath the modifications and gizmos, an exact copy of an early DB5.

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    Aston Martin

    Some changes had to be made. The original replica machine-guns fired pyrotechnic blanks, which would have required reloading and which also sound exactly like real automatic gunfire—a characteristic that may have caused owners some legal difficulties. The Continuation’s barrels simulate fire with a mechanized recoil action and ultra-bright LEDs, but their loudspeaker soundtrack (taken straight from Goldfinger) is much more subdued than an actual Browning .303 would be. The oil slick is actually water, and the tire slashers come in a presentation case and can’t be fitted to the car, due to a corporate desire not to abet actual murder. And although the red button within the flip-open gear shifter is present, there isn’t an ejector seat on the passenger side, not even an under-seat cattle prod. (The asymmetric sunroof aperture is still present, though.) The gadgets can be operated by a control panel between the seats or, to better appreciate them when the car is stationary, through a remote control pack.
    Another small issue is the one indicated by the proviso that has been scrupulously added to every official release about the Goldfinger Continuation: “Please note, this car is not road legal.” The fact that we drove the prototype on a route made up of some of England’s more picturesque public highways indicates there is some wriggle room in that restriction. Two companies in Britain are already offering to officially register Aston’s earlier Continuation models for street use in Europe. But unless you can find and exploit some serious motor-vehicle-department loopholes, it seems unlikely you will be able to enjoy this particular DB5 in the United States on anything other than your expansive private estate.

    View Photos

    Aston Martin

    And that would seem to largely miss the point. Because while the gadgets are fun to play with, the core appeal of the Goldfinger is definitely the box-fresh DB5 that gets to haul them all around. This isn’t a restomod; beyond changes to accommodate the toys, nothing has been changed. So, the 4.0-liter straight-six engine breathes noisily through triple carburetors, the feeble ventilation system bringing the enticing smell of gasoline under gentle use. The steering is both unassisted and low geared, heavy around a parking lot but becoming almost too light at speed. And the chassis manages to be too hard and too soft, crashing over some apparently minor imperfections but delivering lurid body roll under even modest cornering loads. Which, you soon realize, are all the period-sized Avon Turbospeed tires are capable of handling. Small wonder Sean Connery had so much difficulty outrunning Goldfinger’s goons in their wimpy W120 Mercedes 180s.
    None of this matters in the slightest. This is an entirely authentic DB5 driving experience. The flaws both add character and prove originality. They also serve to emphasize some of the DB5’s other strengths. The seating position is high and requires the driver to squeeze around the vast wooden-rimmed steering wheel, but there can be few better automotive views than the panorama through the wraparound windscreen and over the voluptuous curves of the hood, a full set of chrome-bezeled Smiths instruments in the foreground. Performance is plenty brisk thanks to 290 horsepower and 288 pound-feet of torque, the big six feeling impressively strong in its broad midrange and generating more than enough acceleration to easily outpace modern traffic. The five-speed manual gearbox is another highlight. Aston got ZF to dust off the original drawings to produce a new batch. But the gearchanges are now crisper and better-feeling than the vague shift actions common at the time.

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    Aston Martin

    Despite its devotion to speed, the DB5 is also a thoroughly nice way to travel not very quickly. Bond’s Aston comes from an era when cruising comfort and speed were prioritized over outright dynamic performance. At 60 mph with the electric windows lowered to dispel the heat being produced by the big engine, the cabin is remarkably calm, much more so than it would be in a modern alternative. This is one of those cars that delivers fun without breaking a single speed limit.
    The accusation of having more money than sense is normally applied as an insult, yet the implied equation merely states that cash needs to outplay caution. You would have to be obscenely rich to even consider spending more than the $3.5 million Aston will charge for a DB5 Goldfinger Continuation. But for those who are sufficiently loaded and have scratched every other automotive whim, buying James Bond’s Aston Martin seems to us like an entirely justified thing to do.

    Specifications

    Specifications
    2020 Aston Martin DB5 Goldfinger Continuation
    VEHICLE TYPE front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2+2-passenger, 2-door coupe
    BASE PRICE $3,523,677
    ENGINE TYPE DOHC 12-valve inline-6, aluminum block and head, 3×2 carburetorsDisplacement 244 in3, 3996 cm3Power 290 hp @ 5500 rpmTorque 288 lb-ft @ 3850 rpm
    TRANSMISSION 5-speed manual
    DIMENSIONS Wheelbase: 98.0 inLength: 180.2 inWidth: 66.6 inHeight: 53.1 inTrunk volume: 11 ft3Curb weight (C/D est): 3850 lb
    PERFORMANCE (C/D EST) 60 mph: 7.3 sec1/4 mile: 15.1 secTop speed: 145 mph
    EPA FUEL ECONOMY (C/D EST) Combined/city/highway: 14/12/18 mpg

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    Tested: Nissan 240SX Rekindles the Spirit of the Original Z-Car

    From the February 1989 issue of Car and Driver.
    There’s a sequence in Out of Africa in which Robert Redford buzzes a clearing in a biplane, thumps down, and taxis up to his startled paramour, Meryl Streep. Delighted, she marvels at his unexpected arrival at the controls of an airplane:
    “Where did you get it?”
    “Mombasa.”
    “When did you learn to fly?”
    “Yesterday.”

    DICK KELLEY

    Well, hedgehoppers, that’s Nissan. It, too, just learned to fly. Or relearned. From the Maxima (C/D September 1988) to the 300ZX (check here next month) to this 240SX, all of Nissan’s new fliers tower with talent—as its legendary 240Z did under the Datsun banner two decades ago.
    In 1969 the original Z-car, quick and light and looking right, captured the imaginations of the world’s sports-car fanatics. In a creative coup, Nissan perfectly conceived its two-seater coupe for its perfectly perceived market. The 240Z took flight with a near-ballistic rush that left its foes rocking in their wheel chocks.
    Yet from the mid-seventies to the mid-eighties, Nissan squandered its well-deserved dynamic reputation. Its sporty models grew glitzy, and its lesser models became mundane. Meanwhile, Honda blitzed new trails in excellence, Mazda licked the edges of the performance envelope, and Toyota hung on as Japan’s biggest car company. By 1988, Nissan had fallen from second place among imports in U.S. car sales. Luckily, new Nissan management had already begun to trim its lineup of flabby underpinnings and blasé bodywork.

    DICK KELLEY

    This is now, and the 240SX is Nissan. The new 240, though not directly related to the original, is also a car to lust after—unlike the 200SX it replaces. The 240’s trappings, from its voluptuous lines to its worthy innards, showcase Nissan’s reborn enthusiasm. A trip in the SX proves that, just as with the original 240Z, a flight in a well-trimmed craft brings its pilot great joy.
    The 240SX steps up to the needs of the 1990s with all the right stuff. It contains a new, naturally aspirated, twelve-valve, 2.4-liter four-cylinder instead of the 200SX’s naturally aspirated V-6 or four-cylinder turbo. The SX handsomely houses the new engine amid lighter weight and better handling; Nissan’s engineers may have relearned flying overnight, but they weren’t born yesterday.
    Nissan’s new managers cleverly insisted on retaining the 200SX’s basic rear-drive layout. The 240 makes the most of it with a new rear suspension. Its multilink design offers welcome self-stabilizing characteristics and precise handling—areas where the 200’s higher weight, narrower tracks, and less accomplished tires showed a weaker grip on theory and road alike. The new suspension design—similar to that finalized for the next 300ZX—easily provides almost any mix of agility and stability that Nissan cares to dial in. It delivers increasingly benign toe-in as cornering loads grow. It minimizes squat, lift, camber change, and jacking for flatter handling without stiffer springs and bushings. The 240’s front suspension retains the 200’s strut layout but includes more anti-dive.

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    DICK KELLEY

    Anybody seeking joy in an automobile’s handling, meaning all of us with hands caressing the wheel and feet hot to trot for thrills underfoot, will find exceptional dynamics in the SX—perfect for a lively model that Nissan flatly proclaims a sports car.
    Like the old 240Z, the SX gives a terrain-hugging ride but masterful control. Like such recent fighter-tough, society-slick fliers as the BMW 750iL, the Peugeot 405Mi16, and the Plymouth Laser and Mitsubishi Eclipse turbos, the 240SX feels lighter than the scales say it should. It weighs 2798 pounds, but its deft controls and cheery bent for changing direction belie its mass, subtracting about 400 pounds from its feel.
    Until you take the controls, the only clues that times have changed at Nissan lie in the 240SX’s bodywork. It comes as either a fastback, the SE, or a blocky notchback, the XE. Nissan styling clinics show public preference split 50-50.

    DICK KELLEY

    Both cars wear four-wheel disc brakes, but the fastback will soon offer an ABS system. Our SX was equipped with a sport package, optional only on the fastback. It includes fore-and-aft spoilers, a firmer suspension, alloy wheels, and tires fattened from 195/60R-15 all-weather skins to 205/60HR-15 performance rubber with better dry grip. From the same option box: cruise control and a leather-wrapped shifter and wheel.
    Every 240 turns up with linear rack-and-pinion power steering. Nissan keeps communications between car and driver open and direct. No variable-assist or variable-ratio monkey-motion muddies the messages. Wound tight, the 240’s steering produces a snug 30.8-foot turning circle, good for superb tuckability in gridlock wars and parking snarls. Yet the guileless steering and almost unflappable chassis allow exhibitions of gripping behavioral magic. Blend this natural gift of grab with 0.83-g skidpad cornering, thanks to Bridgestone Potenza RE88s, and the 240SX helps you look like the most masterful conducteur de l’auto this side of Alain Prost.
    Nissan fits in the SX almost every control that a master driver, an advanced amateur, or a really rank beginner could want. The dash layout, simple and thor0ugh, surpasses most others in both its appearance and its function. Barely a stretch of the driver’s mind or muscle distracts from the driving. A digital speedometer with head-up display lurks on the options list, but bypass it for thefine standard analog array-whose largetach and speedometer dials dominate the central bulge of the instrument pod.Small coolant-temp and fuel-level gauges nest in the pod’s outer corners.They fill perfectly the viewing space framed by the sport wheel-whose horizontal spokes join the rim a bit too low for best hand placement. Embedded in the wheel are membrane buttons for de-cently coordinated cruise controls,though the spoke-mounted buttons prove less handy than, say, Honda’s hub-mounted buttons or the stalk-activated designs from BMW and Mercedes-Benz.

    DICK KELLEY

    The 240’s console houses climate controls capable of all but rainmaking. Stereo components fill most of the leftover space above the snickety-snick five-speed stick or the lever for the optional four-speed automatic (whose gear ratios drew mixed reviews). Our SX’s radio fronted a clean layout and large soft-touch but-tons, but it didn’t pick up signals cleanly.As for onboard music, an optional Sony compact-disc player stood in for an also-optional cassette deck, but after hearing the four speakers’ poor AM/FM sound we didn’t bother trying any CDs. Still, based on Nissan’s studious attention to finer details in our prototype SX, we suspect the sound system in production-line 240s will not fall on its woofers.
    The 240SX’s two-plus-two seating provides legroom for four if the two in back tape in at 24 inches head-to-toe and say “goo-goo” a lot. Up front, adults sit in a fashion more appropriate to front-cabin status. Despite supportive appearances, though, the deep buckets—even in their most upright position lean back quite far and offer so-so padding.Nissan, unlike most purveyors of automatic seatbelts, positions the inboard latches close beside the hips of front occupants, so you regain some support sacrificed by the lackluster seats. The backseat flops forward to add cargo length to the shallow hidden trunk, which stretches wider and longer than expected.
    Braking performance also stretches long for a sporting car. The pedal feels fine during hard road driving, but all-out stops from 70 mph–even with consider-able pedal modulation-chew up 195feet. We anticipate shorter stops from SEs fitted with the promised ABS system.
    The 2.4-liter SOHC four, with port fuel injection plus one exhaust and two intake valves per cylinder, growls out 140 hp. The 240SX equals the old V-6-powered 200SX’s 0-to-60-mph run of 8.6 seconds and zips a quarter-mile in
    16.4 seconds at 83 mph. But soon there-after it quits abruptly: Nissan fits a top-speed governor to keep down buyers’ car-insurance costs. The power stops Iu!r-thunk! at a claimed 112 mph-though our 240SX took a nose dive at a true 107mph. Otherwise, the SX’s willing engine and slick body felt capable of knocking off 120 mph, its chassis even more.(Word is out-heh-heh-that snipping one engine-parameter wire disconnects the annoying cutout.)
    Aiming to deliver 60,000 240SXs this year, Nissan pegs the base prices at$12,999 for the notchback and $13,199for the fastback-low bucks, but subject to added option costs. Moreover, several faster machines skulk on both sides of today’s exchange rates. Take the PlymouthLaser and Mitsubishi Eclipse turbo two-seaters: two seconds quicker from 0 to 50, about 35 mph faster up top, but barely costlier. Such machines may not keep a lid on running costs, and they will not bend into corners as rewardingly as the240SX, but you pays yer money and you takes yer turns as you please.
    A note of guidance: Nissan insiders hint that an unrepentantly quick 240SX is well on the road to final development. The 240’s layout already seems so good that we humbly suggest a 50-percent power boost. Once and for all, Nissan, are you men or mice, ninjas or nice?

    Specifications

    VEHICLE TYPE: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2 + 2 passenger, 3-door coupe
    PRICE AS TESTED: $16,108
    ENGINE TYPE: SOHC inline-4, iron block and aluminum head, port fuel injection
    Displacement: 146 cu in, 2389 ccPower: 140 hp @ 5600 rpmTorque: 152 lb-ft @ 4400 rpm
    TRANSMISSION: 5-speed manual
    DIMENSIONS:Wheelbase: 97.4 inLength: 178.0 inWidth: 66.5 in Height: 50.8 inCurb weight: 2798 lb
    C/D TEST RESULTS:Zero to 30 mph: 2.6 secZero to 60 mph: 8.6 secZero to 90 mph: 20.0 secTop gear, 30-50 mph: 11.1 secTop gear, 50-70 mph: 11.4 secStanding ¼-mile: 16.4 @ 83 mphTop speed: 107 mphBraking, 70-0 mph: 195 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.83 g
    FUEL ECONOMY:EPA city/highway: 20/26 mpgC/D observed: 23 mpg

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    Tested: 2007 Mercedes-Benz CLS63 AMG

    From the October 2006 issue of Car and Driver.
    There’s been a lot of talk on internet chatrooms lately about whether the new AMG 6.2-liter naturally aspirated V-8 engine is an improvement over the supercharged 5.4-liter V-8 that was an AMG staple—particularly, if the new car is quicker or slower off the mark. Well, the answer is yes and no, at least on the evidence of the CLS63 AMG that we have been stylin’ in of late. The 6.2-liter V-8 makes 507 horsepower in the CLS, up from 469 hp in the old CLS55 AMG. Torque is down, though, from 516 pound-feet to 465 lb-ft. More power usually results in better top-end performance, whereas more torque normally means quicker mid-range and off-the-line acceleration.

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    To a certain extent, that’s what our numbers show. The CLS63 gets to 60 mph from rest in a blistering 4.1 seconds, a tenth quicker than the CLS55, but is identical otherwise up to 120 mph and shares a 12.6-second quarter-mile time. The 30-to-50 and 50-to-70-mph figures show the benefits of the supercharged motor’s fatter torque curve (2.2 and 2.5 seconds, respectively, compared with 2.5 and 3.1 for the CLS63), while the extra top-end grunt of the 63 comes into play above 120 mph. By 150 mph, the CLS63 is ahead by almost a second and a half.
    So, apart from marginally better performance away from a stop light and in go-to-jail-fast territory, what are the benefits of the new engine? Well, it sounds absolutely fantastic, especially as it nears the 7200-rpm redline. (Yeah, that’s right: a 6.2 liter V-8 that spins past seven grand.) The loud, guttural growl is a bit too intoxicating, because the desire to hear a blaring soundtrack makes it all too easy to stray into triple-digit temptation. It really does pickup and go past 100 mph.
    The seven-speed automatic transmission is as smooth as a luxury-car salesperson, not to say that the old five-speeder was bad. More important, manual shifting is now effected by a pair of paddles on the back of the steering wheel—right for upshifts, left for down—in place of the buttons in the CLS55.
    Other important mechanical changes are fitment of AMG’s new sport suspension and revised brakes. The vented and cross-drilled front rotors are now 14.2 inches in diameter (up from 14.0 inches) and the front calipers have six instead of eight pistons. At the back, there are 13.0-inch-diameter discs and four-piston calipers. The AMG suspension is a recalibrated version of Mercedes’ Airmatic air-spring setup, which works in conjunction with the so-called Adaptive Damping System. Just like the system in the E-class, it has driver selectable settings, none of which are perfect. The sportiest setting beats you up over bad pavement and the comfiest one doesn’t offer enough body control.
    Still, the CLS63 has lots of grip, decent steering, and is very entertaining once the traction control is turned off and the throttle is mashed. It isn’t quite as sweet a chassis as a BMW M5’s, but the CLS has the advantage of a fine automatic transmission in place of the M5’s clunky Sequential Manual Gearbox and a torquier, more compelling engine. Only serious AMG-heads are going to be able to spot the difference between this one and the CLS55. Discreet 6.3 AMG badges on the flanks and tail are the only real external clues, while there is a new instrument cluster and a fabulous, race-car-like steering wheel. Otherwise, the gorgeous CLS shape and lush interior remain. Why mess with success?
    The only real drawback of this car is the sticker: $95,575 base, with an as-tested price of $100,805. It’s a lot of dough, sure, but the combination of the CLS shape and the rocking new AMG powertrain make this is a sweet ride for the whiz-kids of this world.

    Specifications

    SPECIFICATIONS
    2007 Mercedes-Benz CLS63 AMG
    VEHICLE TYPE Front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 4-passenger, 4-door sedan
    PRICE AS TESTED $100,805 (base price: $95,575)
    ENGINE TYPE DOHC 32-valve V-8, aluminum block and heads, port fuel injectionDisplacement: 379 in3, 6208 cm3Power (SAE net): 507 bhp @ 6800 rpmTorque (SAE net): 465 lb-ft @ 5200 rpm
    TRANSMISSION 7-speed automatic with manumatic shifting
    DIMENSIONSWheelbase: 112.4 inLength: 194.0 inWidth: 73.7 inHeight: 54.7 inCurb weight: 4366 lb
    C/D TEST RESULTSZero to 60 mph: 4.1 secZero to 100 mph: 9.8 secZero to 150 mph: 23.5 secStreet start, 5-60 mph: 4.4 secStanding ¼-mile: 12.6 sec @ 114 mphTop speed (governor limited): 158 mphBraking, 70-0 mph: 163 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.87 g
    FUEL ECONOMYEPA fuel economy, city/highway: 13/20 mpgC/D-observed fuel economy: 13 mpg

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    Tested: 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP

    From the October 2005 issue of Car and Driver.
    The obvious part of the formula is obviously far from new: Cram a big ol’ V-8 in there, make the car go faster. Detroit has been doing this since the ’60s. But what may not be so obvious is that there’s a big asterisk to the formula when you start applying it to a front-wheel-drive car. The footnote reads something like this: “Put enough power through a front-drive system, and the driver will find himself turning right or left when he was planning on straight ahead.”

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    It’s called torque steer, and it’s the major limiting factor in front-drive performance cars. Despite various engineering advances, the problem persists in cars such as Acura’s otherwise superb TL, which sends 270 horsepower through a six-speed manual transmission to the front wheels via a helical limited-slip differential. But in the Grand Prix GXP, with more horsepower (303 at 5600 rpm) and a lot more torque (323 pound-feet at 4400 rpm), torque steer is not a serious issue. There are hints-a little tugging when the driver cracks the throttle at low speed-but no real wrestling.
    How’d they do that? By adopting a measure no one else has ever put into production. More in a minute. But first, another front-engine, front-drive problem, one that’s even more chronic than torque steer. With a design that puts all the heavy powertrain hardware up front, front-drive cars invariably have a pronounced forward weight bias, 64/36 percent in this case. As a consequence, the front wheels carry more than their fair share of the car’s mass, diluting the ability of the tires to transmit steering inputs. Worse, the front tires are also required to transmit power to the pavement, and all things being equal, the poor things just can’t handle their multiple assignments as well as the front tires of rear-drive cars. The result is understeer. The faster the driver herds the car into a turn, the more it wants to go straight.

    Highs: Mellow V-8 rumble, plentiful V-8 torque, excellent road manners.

    Pontiac’s solution to these two inherent front-drive directional control problems-understeer and torque steer-is unique. Instead of four tires of equal size, the GXP has a lot more rubber up front than at the rear: Bridgestone Potenza RE050As, 255/45-18 front, 225/50-18 rear.
    “We wanted a car to run with BMWs,” says program engineering manager Phil Minch. “But we were limited by the W-car architecture, in other words, by front-wheel drive.
    “The rear end never lets go when you have the same size tires all around. So we put our computer guys on it, and they came back with a recommendation for a smaller rear tire, to give the car better balance.”
    This is a radical departure from conventional wisdom, and the idea proved out in initial testing. But there was a nasty side effect: Increasing the contact patch at the front amplified torque steer. However, after experimenting with a number of different tires from a variety of manufacturers, Minch and company decided the problem lay in the tire’s construction-the way the plies were wrapped-and not the footprint. With sufficient application of power, the tire sidewalls distort, thus affecting directional stability.

    AARON KILEY

    Bridgestone, the supplier of choice, was initially reluctant to accept this theory, but when the GXP team achieved improved results using an off-the-shelf tire from another maker, the Bridgestone people got to work and developed a tire that delivered the desired performance.
    Other elements of the GXP package include Bilstein monotube front struts–a first for a front-drive GM car, according to Minch–and forged aluminum 18-inch wheels (8.0-inch-wide front, 7.0 rear), a stouter rear anti-roll bar, and a 0.4-inch reduction in static ride height versus the old GTP Competition Group.
    Still another challenge was fitting the 5.3-liter V-8 into an engine bay originally conceived for a transverse V-6. Although GM has flirted with this idea in the past–our man Csere drove a Chevy Lumina mule with V-8 power more than 10 years ago–it wasn’t as easy as simply greasing the thing up and cramming it in there. The powertrain troops had to develop a tidier version of the 5.3, achieved by creating a unique edition of the block with a shorter crank, a single-belt accessory drive, and a starter mounted on the transmission rather than on the engine block.
    The net of the redesign was a reduction in overall length of “about an inch,” according to Minch, which was enough.
    The transplant also required mods to the 4T65-E four-speed automatic to handle the extra torque and a three-point engine-mount system designed to damp the V-8’s torque rotation at full throttle.
    Pared down, the 5.3 V-8 met the assembly parameters–it installs from beneath–and provided an extra payoff at the scales. The all-aluminum V-8 is actually lighter than the supercharged iron-block 3.8-liter from the old GTP.

    Lows: Hints of torque steer, hefty curb weight, high steering effort at low speed.

    But how does it stack up in terms of Pontiac’s BMW objective? Let’s be clear. This ain’t a BMW. It’s not as agile as the sports-sedan pacesetters from Bavaria, and even though the unique tire stagger puts the GXP’s responses much closer to neutral, the Pontiac’s defining trait is still mild understeer. The four-speed TAPshift manumatic is better than some we’ve experienced, leaving upshift decisions totally in the hands of the driver, but the transmission offers only four speeds to play with. The engine’s torque band is so broad, and the transmission’s up- and downshifting so prompt in full automatic mode, that the driver can achieve pretty much the same levels of haste by simply putting the lever in D and leaving it there.
    That said, the GXP is not without some appealing traits. If it’s not quite BMW eager in transient response, it’s not too far off the curve, and if the GM Magnasteer II system is artificially heavy at low speeds, it’s quick (2.4 turns lock to lock) and accurate, with effort that lightens as velocities climb. The GXP turned in a ho-hum 0.82 g on the skidpad, but real-world grip feels better than that, and as Minch and his cohorts hoped, a driver can induce a little oversteer. And braking performance–174 feet from 70 mph, and zero fade–is on par for this class. The net is a forgiving and capable four-door, arguably the most entertaining sedan Pontiac has ever offered.
    There are some interior elements that enhance the entertainment. The front buckets, for example, are close to BMW territory in comfort and support, and the grippy steering wheel and nicely sized shift buttons enhance the sense of driver involvement. The head-up display is effective for keeping track of speed without glancing down, and the center-dash info display even includes a g-meter. Unfortunately, the latter will only deliver its readings–accel, decel, and lateral–when the car is stopped. Thus, the driver can only see the peak numbers achieved during his most recent stretch of road, rather than what’s going on in real time. Minch admits the GXP team made the mistake of checking with the liability lawyers before programming the g-meter display.

    The Verdict: A cool idea that would have been even cooler a decade earlier.

    An intriguing footnote to this front-drive breakthrough is that it won’t be immediately applied to other GM offerings. The 2006 Chevy Impala SS, for example, gets the 5.3-liter V-8, but the package will use equal-size tires all around and won’t have the Bilsteins.
    With an as-tested price of $31,135 (base, $29,995), the GXP is on a more or less equal price footing with some compelling competitors-the Acura TL, the BMW 325i, the Infiniti G35. And that adds up to a tough sell. But this is GM, remember, the discount leader. We checked the company’s latest sales ploy-everybody gets the GM employee discount-and came up with a GXP base of $24,696. At that price, this good-looking all-American is tough to resist.
    Counterpoint
    Here is a car that depicts the difference between soccer and football, between Peter Pan and Terry Bradshaw. The GXP has brute force that can be summoned instantly, a pugnacious snarl, and a chassis that didn’t go to Harvard. Very American, and very likable in a roughhouse, bawdy sort of way. If you wear your baseball cap backward, this Bud’s for you. Look for owners to drive by in the hip-hop position, heads behind the B-pillar. And yet the GXP corners and handles well, isn’t overly teched up like the Euros, looks bad-ass in black, and the price is right. It’s one of the most memorable sporting American sedans I’ve driven in a gawdawful long time. —Steve Spence
    Skeptical is not a strong enough word to describe the brain waves circulating after taking in the GXP’s spec sheet: 303 horsepower driving which wheels, you say? And a four-speed automatic? A taller final drive actually makes the GXP civilized and not the supreme burnout machine I expected. This V-8 makes nothing but good noises and lots of torque, but how does gearing a car to go over 100 mph in second gear make sense? Come on, a closely spaced six-speed could have smoked the porky Hemi Charger. Five years ago, I think Pontiac would have been on to something. Nowadays, the similarly priced Charger R/T seems like a no-brainer. —Dave VanderWerp
    In the early ’90s, I drove an experimental Chevy Lumina whose front wheels were powered by a Chevy V-8. I found it to be splendid. At long last GM has put that concept on sale with this GXP, and it still works. As it has for decades, the V-8 delivers effortless performance to this front-driver, and the GXP copes gracefully with the power. One reason is front tires that are larger than the rears. This makes sense, given that the front tires must steer and propel the car while carrying 76-percent more weight than the rears do. There’s still a whiff of clumsiness in this large, old platform, but if you crave V-8 power at a reasonable price, the GXP is worth a look. —Csaba Csere

    Specifications

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    Tested: 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX

    From the May 2005 issue of Car and Driver.
    Japanese love a good obento, which is a select assortment of traditional delicacies served in a bento box, a compartmentalized tray with high walls to prevent intermingling of foodstuffs. Perhaps that’s why you can’t buy the same feisty Mitsubishi Colt Turbo hatchback in both Europe and Japan, or the nifty six-passenger Mitsubishi Grandis wagon in the U.S. Intermingling has risky consequences. It’s bad obento.

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    At least there’s the Lancer Evolution, which Mitsubishi spreads like sinus-clearing wasabi across the world to spice up its lackluster image. For 2006, the Lancer Evolution’s generational odometer rolls over from the current Evo VIII, on sale since 2003, to the Evo IX. Accordingly, this rigid, noisy, spartan, all-wheel-drive son-of-a-rally-car gets new front and rear bumpers, aero tweaks, nattier seats, and lighter alloy wheels. And along with that it gets a 10-hp boost to 286, mostly from a new-to-Evo variable-valve-timing system.
    Timing is everything, as we discovered with our own test gear strapped onto a six-speed Evo IX MR at Mitsubishi’s Okazaki track. It’s a postage stamp of grass and asphalt ribbons enveloped by the dense suburbs near Nagoya, Japan, and home to Evo development since the Evo II in 1992. With the Evo IX MR, we saw 60 mph in 4.6 seconds and the quarter-mile in 13.4 seconds at 104 mph, the fleetest sprinting we’ve garnered from any stock Evo.

    View Photos

    Oh, but you were expecting more than new bumpers and 10 added horses for the Evo IX? The name is “Evolution,” after all, and it is indeed evolving toward an all-new Evo X set to arrive late in 2007. That would be shortly after the debut of a redesigned Lancer sedan on a new platform dubbed GS.
    Meanwhile, be content with the same three Evo flavors as before-the trim-stripped RS and the base Evo, both with five-speed manuals, plus the six-speed Evo MR with Bilstein shocks and forged BBS wheels. We’re told to expect a $500 bump of the current base prices (starting at $29,074 for the RS) when pricing is announced for the September on-sale date.
    Inside are aluminum pedals (except in the RS) and redesigned seats. A faux-carbon-fiber panel adorns the dash. Cloth is gone; pseudo-suede center panels are now bordered by leather bolsters. All-leather seats are an option.

    View Photos

    Outside, a new front bumper fights aerodynamic lift with an available chin spoiler that increases the low-pressure zone under the nose. Two oval nostrils in the bumper help the intercooler by ramming fresh air around its input and output pipes. In back, the carbon-fiber airfoil can be had with a Gurney flap, a thin wing extension that increases downforce to the rear.

    Specifications

    SPECIFICATIONS
    2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX
    VEHICLE TYPEFront-engine, 4-wheel-drive, 5-passenger, 4-door sedan
    PRICE AS TESTED $35,700 (estimated base price: $35,700)
    ENGINE TYPE Turbocharged and intercooled DOHC 16-valve inline-4, iron block and aluminum head, port fuel injectionDisplacement: 122 in3, 1997 cm3Power: 286 hp @ 6500 rpmTorque: 289 lb-ft @ 3500 rpm
    TRANSMISSION 6-speed manual
    DIMENSIONSWheelbase: 103.3 inLength: 178.5 inWidth: 69.7 inHeight: 57.1 inCurb weight: 3300 lb
    C/D TEST RESULTSZero to 60 mph: 4.6 secZero to 100 mph: 11.9 secStanding ¼-mile: 13.4 sec @ 104 mphBraking 70-0 mph: 155 ft
    FUEL ECONOMYEPA fuel economy, city driving: 19 mpg

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    2003 Mercedes-Benz E55 AMG First Drive

    From the December 2002 issue of Car and Driver.
    Hard to believe, but no longer is a mere 349 horsepower de rigueur for a Mercedes E55 AMG. The company has decided nothing less than the supercharged V-8 of the ridiculously powerful SL55 AMG will do the job of intimidating the Teutonic heavy-metal opposition.
    Just five years ago, about 350 horses established you as a credible tarmac-burning player. The BMW M5 raised the bar to 394, only to be recently overtaken by the twin-turbo Audi RS 6 with 450. Now it’s Mercedes’ turn to scorch the rankings.

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    This most powerful E55 AMG ever, due in the U.S. in May, gets 34 percent more power and an extra 32 percent of pound-feet over the old, naturally aspirated, once seriously fast E55. It’s enough grunt to qualify this E55 as the quickest production sedan in the world. We estimate it will rip to 60 mph in 4.5 seconds, 0.1 second ahead of Audi’s claim for the RS 6 and 0.2 second quicker than the M5. And the rate of forward motion doesn’t slacken as the estimated 10.5 seconds to 100 mph suggests. All this with an automatic transmission, although you can shift gears manually using buttons behind the steering wheel. And get this: Assisted by an IHI belt-driven screw supercharger that spins at 23,000 rpm to a maximum pressure of 11.6 psi, the 5.4-liter V-8 produces a monstrous 516 pound-feet of torque from 2650 to 4500 rpm.

    A word of explanation is needed here. The V-8 in the E55 is not exactly the same as the one in the SL55 AMG. Expect to be confused. At its launch, the SL55 produced the same figures as the E55. Then AMG found that 469 horsepower was at the very low end of the engine’s tolerances. So it had the V-8 that’s in the SL55 recertified at 493 horsepower. Now AMG admits that, due to differences in the induction geometry between the SL55 and E55 and the E55’s longer exhaust system, the E55 produces less horsepower. That longer exhaust system may account for the more subdued, less dominant, but still potent exhaust waffle that’s close to perfect for the sedan. Neither of which, apparently, makes any difference to the torque output. The E55 does have a slightly taller final-drive ratio than the SL55 (2.65 versus 2.82 for the sports car), but since the E55 weighs about 500 pounds less, we think it will be the quicker of the two.

    Behind the wheel, it’s impossible not to play rally driver with this car. At least some of the time. Shift time is 35 percent quicker than a regular Mercedes automatic, and roughness increases by a similar amount. But because the tranny is adaptive, it quickly learns when the driver has backed off and then seemingly skims through the gears. You choose between sport and comfort modes (the latter replaces the old winter setting to provide second-gear starts).
    It rained hard all day during our first outing in the E55. In the old 500E—Mercedes’ first supersedan—our day would have been punctuated by slipping and sliding. Yet driven fairly hard (as our 11-mpg average attests), the rear-drive E55 rarely stepped out of line, only the occasional flashing of the high-threshold electronic-stability-program warning light indicating a break in adhesion. Switch off the ESP, and you can light up the tires at will, and power oversteer becomes the norm. Yet the big heavy E55 remains remarkably controllable and agile and is still capable of generating plenty of understeer-biased cornering forces on wet roads, even if it lacks the massive security of the RS 6. Its quick (2.75 turns lock-to-lock) speed-sensitive steering has more feel and fluency and is beautifully weighted. Mercedes’ air suspension also endows a far better—even cosseting—ride than the Audi, provided you ignore the hardest of the three damper-and-spring settings, which relays every small bump and irregularity in the road. Stability is impressive, at least up to 125 mph, and we can tell you that the rain management of the body and wipers is terrific. The brakes, from the SL55 AMG, are electrohydraulic, as in all new E-class cars, and immensely powerful, but they require a sensitive touch for smooth modulation as the car comes to a halt.
    The E55 interior is superbly equipped, spacious, and comfortable (apart from the ridiculously short receiving end of the seatbelts) if not quite as exquisitely built as an RS 6.
    It’s another super-refined, super-subtle, supersedan from AMG. Except maybe this time the lack of visual distinctiveness is too discreet. There are the AMG three-section air inlets in the lower bumper, 18-inch alloys wearing suitably broad 245/40 and 265/35 rubber, and four oval chrome exhaust pipes. But the body would benefit from more macho massaging, especially for a car that will cost about $75,000.
    It’s inevitable that one day there will be quicker sedans than the E55 AMG. But we can wonder if any will possess the same balance of refinement, poise, and performance that makes the E55 so brilliantly complete.

    Specifications

    SPECIFICATIONS
    2003 Mercedes-Benz E55 AMG
    VEHICLE TYPE Front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 5-passenger, 4-door sedan
    ESTIMATED BASE PRICE $75,000
    ENGINE TYPE Supercharged and intercooled SOHC 24-valve V-8, aluminum block and heads, Bosch Motronic ME2.8.1 engine-control system with port fuel injectionDisplacement: 332 cu in, 5439ccPower (SAE net): 469 bhp @ 6100 rpmTorque (SAE net): 516 lb-ft @ 2650 rpm
    TRANSMISSION 5-speed automatic with lockup torque converter
    DIMENSIONSWheelbase: 112.4 in Length: 190.9 inWidth: 71.7 in Height: 50.9 inCurb weight: 3900 lb
    C/D-ESTIMATED PERFORMANCEZero to 60 mph 4.5 secZero to 100 mph 10.5 secStanding 1/4-mile 12.4 secTop speed (governor limited) 156 mph
    PROJECTED FUEL ECONOMYEPA city driving 14 mpgEPA highway driving 20 mpg

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    Tested: 1986 Porsche 911 Turbo

    From the January 1986 issue of Car and Driver.
    Set your time control for 1979. Forget everything automotive you’ve experienced in the last six years. Let yourself drift back, back, all the way back to a time when one high-performance automobile in America stood head and shoulders above the rest.

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    Six years ago, things looked grim for car enthusiasts. The feds’ emissions standards and a pair of fuel crises had just about squeezed the life out of hot cars—with one notable exception. Towering Colossus-like above the sea of gas-sipping econoboxes and throbbing diesels was the Porsche 930 Turbo. Its sheetmetal bulged like Arnold Schwarzenegger’s chest. Its engine had turbocharged lungs. It acceler­ated as if there were a Saturn booster strapped to its tail. It became the altar at which car nuts worshiped, and no one with even a few drops of 30-weight in his veins would ever forget it.
    The 930 Turbo was the promise of a better tomorrow through turbocharging. But at the end of the 1979 model year, it was withdrawn from the U.S. market. The expense and the complexity of maintain­ing its power level while bringing its air-cooled engine into line with tightening emissions regulations were cited as the pri­mary cause of its demise. Its penchant for gasoline (it delivered only 12 mpg on the EPA city test), its high price, and its low sales volume were the nails in the coffin. America would have to get by with normal­ly aspirated 911s, or none at all.

    RICHARD GEORGE

    This was not easy news to take. Sure, the Turbo was beyond the reach of all but a few wealthy buyers. Its passing shouldn’t have meant a thing to the rest of us, but it did. That’s because the Porsche 930 Tur­bo transcended the realm of everyday cars and parts and suggested retail prices. It defined and dominated an era in automotive history.
    It was inevitable that a car as coveted as the 930 would continue to find its way here through the gray market. It never went out of production, so a ready supply has been available for those with fat wallets; we test­ed a number of such cars ourselves. To thwart the gray-market traffic, Porsche went so far as to offer the 930’s voluptuous bodywork and revised chassis pieces as a big-buck option on the 911 Carrera.
    As of this moment, all of these substi­tutes for the real thing are hereby declared obsolete. Porsche Cars North America is once again importing the most potent member of its rear-engined family, this time under the 911 Turbo name.

    RICHARD GEORGE

    The manufacturer’s reasons for its change of heart are simple and straightfor­ward. Porsche has finally recognized the full importance of the North American market, where more than half of its cars are sold. As a result, we will no longer be de­nied the best stuff, which has been heretofore reserved for Europe. The game plan is for Porsche to offer all of its model lines here, while making every attempt to equal­ize power levels worldwide. Last year, we were granted the four-valve-per-cylinder 928 before the German market got it. The 944 Turbo makes the same power wherev­er it’s sold. The 911 Turbo is the third step in that direction.
    Importing the 911 Turbo is also the best way for Porsche to blunt the gray market and to channel the profits from U.S. sales into its own coffers. Why buy a privately federalized European-spec 911 Turbo, which might be hard to get parts for, when you can have a factory-fresh, EPA-ap­proved model with the full dealer warranty?
    Corporate maneuvering aside, the best part of the deal is that a solid-gold, heart-thumping supercar has returned to our midst. It’s as if Ferrari had brought back the Daytona, or Ford had resurrected the Cobra. But is all the lore surrounding the mythical 930 Turbo grounded in reality, or have our warm memories been clouded by time and distance? Is the new 911 Tur­bo still the King Kong super ride of our de­mented dreams, or has automotive science passed it by? Only a test drive will tell.

    To look a the new 911 Turbo is to stare right back into 1979. Only the keenest eye will notice that the rear tires now fill out the massive flared fenders a little more fully. The engineers have attacked the 930’s nasty tendency to wag its tail during hard cornering by specifying wider-than-ever, 245/45VR-16 Dunlop SP Sport D40 rear tires in place of the old car’s 225/50VR-16 rubber. The bigger tires are mounted on 9.0-inch wheels, which are an inch wider than before.
    Precious few cars could live through six years without so much as a face lift, but the 911 Turbo has done just mat. This car has a sexier body than Madonna, and the years have dulled its charm not a whit. We sampled the 911 Turbo in the L.A. area, which has the highest per-capita number of winged and flared 911 s in the Western Hemisphere, but our red beast wowed me masses nonetheless. They still find this a spellbinding automobile, and far more folks man you’d expect went out of their way to let us know that.
    Inside, me Turbo could be any 911 of recent vintage, but for a few minor details. A small boost gauge is incorporated into me tachometer at me six-o’clock position. Check me standard plastic shift knob and you’ll see mat the gear pattern stops at fourth. (Turbos have never been equipped with five-speeds by the factory.)
    Aside from that, the Turbo is just a well-dressed 911. Soft, sweet-smelling leather is lavished on the cockpit, including the dash top. A full load of extras, from air to sunroof, are standard-just as you’d expect in a car mat comes in at a nice, round $48,000. But that’s it. No surprises or great advances have sprung up since we last saw mis model.
    You won’t find any major changes under the whale tail, either. The 911 Turbo’s air-cooled flat six is basically the same one that tantalized us so much back in 1979. The turbocharged and intercooled powerplant still displaces 3.3 liters, and such details as its bore, stroke, and compression ratio remain unchanged.
    The bottom line—the horsepower coming off me end of the crankshaft—is fatter than ever, though. Porsche’s data banks are six years richer with emissions-control knowledge, and it’s been put to good use in me 911 Turbo. The tweaking includes a three-way catalytic converter, an oxygen sensor, and electronic assistance for the Bosch mechanical fuel-injection system. In 1979, Porsche was carping about the difficulties of making its air-cooled powerplant comply with federal exhaust-emissions standards. Today, the engineers have made it comply, adding an impressive 29 hp in the bargain. They also managed to improve fuel economy by 33 percent, though the 911 Turbo’s 16 mpg still isn’t good enough to get it past the gas-guzzler law. This scrape with me tax man adds a $500 penalty to the car’s base price.
    Nevertheless, if 1979 was a great year for turbocharged 911s, 1986 ought to be even better, right? Twenty-nine more horses, fatter tires, and six years of chassis development could only make things positively dreamy.
    There’s certainly no shortage of promise when you get the proceedings under way. On a cool morning, the beat of the 911 Turbo’s idle will warm you faster than the heater. This engine sounds serious: lumpy and hoarse, with an occasional spit! Thrown in for good measure.

    There’s no need to hound me 911 around town. Enough torque is on hand for easing along in thick L.A. traffic without fishing for boost. But look out the first time you decide to scoot away from a light. First gear is as steep as the north face of the Eiger—it’s good for 50 mph—and there’s no heavy thrust down low. A cheerleader in a clapped-out Mustang II will have no trouble beating you across an intersection while checking her makeup. As a matter of fact, one did exactly that to us.
    Then the boost comes in as the revs go past 4500 rpm, the exhaust hisses like a very angry 3000-pound cat, and whoosh! you rattle the Mustang’s windows as you blow by.
    On the freeway, locked in a clot of 65-mph traffic, the Turbo feels dead on its feet. Rolling along in fourth gear with the engine just ticking over, it’s a good five-count before the boost needle moves off of the peg. Drop down to third and it’s still a three-count before the rockets fire and you can blast through a hole into the next lane.
    This is no fun. Your average Volvo 740 Turbo would be ten car-lengths down the passing lane by now. In truth, second gear, which goes all the way to 86 mph, is the way to deal with the freeway-but it’s kind of embarrassing, not to mention noisy, howling along at 4500 rpm just to have the horsepower on retainer.
    We remember the 930 as having bags full of boost lag, but was it really this bad? Has turbo technology left this car—a Porsche—so hopelessly behind?
    Our track testing indicated that something was probably wrong with our test car. Its clutch was definitely slipping, and we suspect that a waste-gate problem kept the engine from building boost quickly. This car also suffered a thrown A/C drive belt and a recalcitrant driver’s door during our testing, so it was not the best example of Porsche quality we’ve seen.
    Further study was called for, so we traded our flaming-red 911 Turbo for a deep blue-metallic number (yes, you do see two different cars in the photos) and set off for the test track again. There was certainly nothing wrong this time around. Big horsepower, big rear tires, and a big rear-weight bias enabled our second test car to blowout of the hole like a cannon shot.
    With a searing 0-to-60-mph run of 4.6 seconds and a clocking of 13.1 seconds at 105 mph through the quarter-mile, the 911 Turbo is most assuredly this season’s acceleration ace—providing you’re willing to resort to rough, wheel-spinning, drag-race starts.
    Out on the road, though, these numbers pale next to the Turbo’s boost-lag arthritis. Even the healthier of our two test cars took forever to spin its turbo up to liftoff speed. Once it was up and running, it was plenty strong, but it just didn’t awe us the way the old 930 used to.
    Then again, there’s more to our memories of the 930 than pure speed. It was also known as one of the trickiest handlers around. Driving one hard was a job for experts. Putting the power on aggressively in a corner would pitch the nose way up, and the 930 would try to run straight over its front tires. Lift off the gas just a few millimeters in these conditions and the 930 would swing sideways so fast, it would jump-start your heart.
    Not so the new 911 Turbo. On the tortured curves of California’s Ortega Highway, it shows real poise. In the last six years it’s obviously been taught some manners. Antics that would have spun you out before hardly faze it. The brakes are superb. It’s still hard work to drive very, very fast, but it’s much more forgiving now.
    Comparing this experience with our last 930 outing, in 1979, it’s clear that things have changed. The 930 was deadly in the curves and awesome on the straights, and the 911 Turbo is mellower in both areas.
    This pass through the time barrier, the 911 Turbo’s performance just hasn’t blown our minds—and we think we know why. Back in 1979, there really wasn’t any other car in America that offered anywhere near the 930’s kind of speed. Today, however, we’re in the middle of a horsepower boom. We’ve got 157-mph 944 Turbos, 154-mph 928s, 151-mph Corvettes, 140-mph Camaros—hell, even Saab is in the 140-plus club these days.
    Faced with these facts, we can draw no other conclusion than that the handwriting is on the wall for the 911 Turbo. Precious few cars can sprint with it, but the march of technology has produced a whole flock of turbo cars with much better manners. This is, no doubt, why Porsche is hard at work on a four-valve-per-cylinder version of this car, and why the awesome 959 prototype is fitted with a sophisticated twin-turbocharger setup.
    But this is today-the here and now. Taking a cold, hard look at the 911 Turbo’s vexing return, we get the feeling that fond memory may have been better left undisturbed.

    Specifications

    Specifications
    1986 Porsche 911 Turbo
    VEHICLE TYPE rear-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2+2-passenger, 2-door coupe
    PRICE AS TESTED $49,720
    ENGINE TYPE turbocharged and intercooled flat-6, aluminum block and headsDisplacement 201 in3, 3299 cm3Power 282 hp @ 5500 rpmTorque 278 lb-ft @ 4000 rpm
    TRANSMISSION 4-speed manual
    DIMENSIONS Wheelbase: 89.4 inLength: 168.9 inWidth: 69.9 inHeight: 51.6 inCurb weight: 3040 lb
    C/D TEST RESULTS 60 mph: 4.6 sec100 mph: 11.9 secTop gear, 30–50 mph: 11.1 secTop gear, 50–70 mph: 11.4 sec¼-mile: 13.1 sec @ 105 mphTop speed: 155 mphBraking, 70–0 mph: 173 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.82 g
    C/D FUEL ECONOMY Observed: 13 mpg
    EPA FUEL ECONOMY City/highway: 16/22 mpg

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