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    The STO Is the Ultimate Huracán

    Supercar makers are always sparing with their special sauce, reserving the fastest and most extreme iterations of a given model until late in their product cycle. This form of delayed gratification is ultimately a function of product planning rather than technological progress, but it does tend to give us the definitive version of a given model. Examples of the genre include the Ferrari 458 Speciale and 488 Pista, McLaren’s LT variants, and—we supposed until very recently—the 2018 Lamborghini Huracán Performante, which previously sat atop the model hierarchy.
    Although the Performante was truly special—its potency proved by both a Nürburgring Nordschliefe production lap record and a 2.2-second sprint to 60 mph—it clearly wasn’t quite special enough for Lamborghini. Now the company has created an even more extreme and track-focused variant to round off the Huracán’s long and successful life. This is the Huracán Super Trofeo Omologata (STO)—as in homologated—intended to be the closest thing possible to a street-legal version of the Super Trofeo race car. It will arrive in the spring, starting at $334,133.

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    While it will have license plates and be fully capable at the all-important business of low-speed posing, the STO is designed for intensive circuit work. That point was proven when we got to drive a late prototype version on the demanding 3.8-mile handling circuit at the Porsche-owned Nardó technical center in southern Italy. This itinerary didn’t provide much insight into how the STO will cope with the challenges of the real world—we’re certainly not expecting limo-like refinement—but our drive did prove it feels truly mighty on a closed course.
    Not that the STO is the quickest Huracán on paper. Its 5.2-liter V-10 makes 631 horsepower, equaling the output of the Performante and Evo variants, but torque has fallen slightly, to 417 pound-feet. Such as its motorsport counterparts, the STO is rear-wheel drive. This saves weight compared to the all-wheel-drive Performante but also hampers off-the-line acceleration, with Lamborghini’s claimed 3.0-second zero-to-62-mph time being a tenth shy of the corresponding figure for the earlier car. STO-specific gearing also brings the top speed down to 193 mph, while the Performante hits 202 mph.

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    None of this matters at all. On a track, the STO will be the quickest streetable Huracán by a considerable margin. Lamborghini says the new car can lap the Daytona International Speedway road course in 1:48.9—nearly three seconds quicker than the Performante and just two-and-a-half shy of the GT3 Evo race car.
    Besides ditching the front half of the drivetrain, other weight-saving measures include magnesium alloy wheels, a titanium roll cage (developed with Akrapovič), and a single-piece carbon-fiber clamshell front end inspired by the similar “cofango” of the Miura. Inside, the STO loses carpets and gains carbon-bodied sports seats, and the windshield is thinner and 20 percent lighter. The STO weighs 95 pounds less than the Performante, according to Lamborghini.
    The V-10 remains the starring feature. The peak horsepower might be unchanged, but the STO gets a more aggressive throttle map and a sharpened top-end soundtrack that reserves its most savage noises for the vicinity of the 8500-rpm rev cut. The accelerator response is instantaneous in a way that even the keenest turbocharged engines can’t match, and although low-down urge is lacking—peak torque arrives at a screaming 6500 rpm—the STO’s lungs are deep enough that it never feels anything less than outrageously fast.

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    The STO’s suspension is fortified for track work with new bushings and anti-roll bars, as well as recalibrated MagneRide active dampers. Dynamic settings are still regulated by the ANIMA controller, but the modes have been renamed. STO is intended for road use, Trofeo for dry track, and Pioggia for wet. Selecting Trofeo raises the traction and stability-control systems’ intervention thresholds to what is effectively a sport mode, and these are also fully defeatable.
    One trait the prototype STO shared with other Huracáns was its low-effort steering, which exhibited a marked lack of resistance around the straight-ahead position. The STO uses a fixed-ratio steering rack instead of the variable-ratio setup offered with lesser versions. That makes for less frenetic reactions, but steering inputs at high speed are still judged based on acquired faith rather than the reassurance of fulsome feedback. Like the Huracán Evo, the STO gets a rear-steering system, capable of adding up to three degrees of lock, which helps the car change direction but doesn’t add to the sense of dynamic connection.

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    But this proved to be a small complaint. Once in a corner and loaded up, the STO’s chassis instills near-total confidence, with huge grip from the track-ready Bridgestone Potenza tires coexisting with a remarkable degree adjustability. The mighty engine has more than enough urge to overwhelm the rear tires and send the STO into lurid oversteer. But the delicacy of the balance between adhesion levels is more impressive, with the Huracán’s sensitivity to weight transfer and the surgical accelerator making it easy to alter its line with small inputs. The experience often felt like driving a 600-hp Porsche Cayman.
    Significant downforce enhances both high-speed grip and the driver’s confidence level in faster turns. The STO doesn’t have active aerodynamic elements, but the vast rear wing can be manually adjusted between three positions to deliver different amounts of assistance. The most aggressive of these creates a huge 992 pounds at 174 mph—the Performante makes a peak of 771 pounds of downforce at 193 mph—with a substantial amount of that figure available at lower and more track-typical speeds. The steering doesn’t weight up noticeably as aero loads build, but it only takes a few committed corners to start believing in its precision. The track-focused Huracán’s high-speed stability was demonstrated at Nardó’s first turn, a hugely fast left-hander that the STO proved capable of taking at an indicated 171 mph.

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    The STO has also been treated to upgraded brakes, Lamborghini fitting it with CCM-R discs that are claimed to offer 25 percent more stopping power than regular carbon-ceramics, and with a 400-percent improvement in thermal conductivity. Those brakes were resilient under even the hardest use, allowing the Huracán to venture far beyond what initially felt like brave braking points. There is also a new dashboard display to report rotor and brake fluid temperatures. Only the biggest stops turned these briefly from green to yellow.
    The STO feels like a fitting finale to the Huracán story. The Aventador’s rowdy younger sibling is still Lamborghini’s most successful model of all time (although the Urus is closing fast) and deserves to go out on a high. Much of the STO’s clientele will doubtless consist of moneyed extroverts drawn by its range-topping status and ability to draw crowds. But based on our experience of the prototype, this is car that was designed to thrive under the hardest track use. Hopefully more than a few of them will actually get driven that way.


    2021 Lamborghini Huracán STO
    VEHICLE TYPE mid-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2-passenger, 2-door coupe
    BASE PRICE $334,133
    ENGINE TYPE DOHC 40-valve V-10, aluminum block and heads, port and direct fuel injectionDisplacement 318 in3, 5204 cm3Power 631 hp @ 8000 rpmTorque 417 lb-ft @ 6500 rpm
    TRANSMISSION 7-speed dual-clutch automatic
    DIMENSIONS Wheelbase: 103.1 inLength: 179.1 inWidth: 76.6 inHeight: 48.0 inPassenger volume: 46 ft3Trunk volume: 1 ft3Curb weight (C/D est): 3350 lb
    PERFORMANCE (C/D EST) 60 mph: 2.6 sec100 mph: 6.0 sec1/4 mile: 10.4 secTop speed: 193 mph
    EPA FUEL ECONOMY (C/D EST) Combined/city/highway: 15/13/18 mpg

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    2021 Hyundai Sonata N Line Powers Up the Family Sedan

    Hyundai says its N performance division is named for its Namyang proving ground in Korea and Germany’s Nürburgring, but the team involved probably would tell you it stands for No Sleep. Since the Veloster N was introduced in 2018, Hyundai engineers have been a busy bunch of bees developing six more products, including the new 2021 Elantra N Line, the more powerful Elantra N, which will go on sale late in 2021, and three SUVs that are coming soon.
    The team insomnia-suffering speed merchants have also created Hyundai’s most powerful sedan ever, the 2021 Hyundai Sonata N Line. On sale now, it’s the first performance version of the brand’s popular mid-size sedan, and it’s looking to steal some practicality-minded enthusiasts from the Honda Accord 2.0T, Mazda 6, and Toyota Camry TRD. An afternoon spent driving it around Southern California, tells us it’s good enough to do just that.

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    Behind its big blacked-out grille is a new turbocharged 2.5-liter inline-four shared with the Genesis G80 and GV80. The turbo four is also shared with the Sonata’s platform mate, the Kia K5 GT. In the Sonata, it pumps out a beastly 290 horsepower at 5800 rpm and a burly 311 pound-feet of torque at just 1650 rpm. That’s 99 more horsepower and 130 pound-feet of torque more than the Sonata’s naturally aspirated 2.5-liter and 110 more horsepower and 116 pound-feet over the Sonata’s available 1.6-liter turbo four.

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    To get there, engineers fortified the naturally aspirated 2.5-liter’s block, integrated its exhaust manifold into the cylinder head, lowered the compression ratio from 13.0:1 to 10.5:1, and bolted on a turbocharger to swell the intake with boost.
    Hyundai also fits its new eight-speed dual-clutch automatic transmission, a gearbox that also pulls duty in the Veloster N, the Kia K5 GT, and in the upcoming Elantra N. Developed in-house, the transmission has a wet clutch pack, is properly responsive, shifts quickly and smoothly, but it doesn’t feel quite as immediate and snappy as it does in the Elantra N. The first four gears are tightly spaced and well matched to the engine’s torque curve, which is high and flat to 4000 rpm. There’s some serious midrange power here, and the big four-cylinder pulls well to 6250 rpm.
    To reduce the time to 60 mph, Hyundai developed a launch-control program that makes drag racing this front-wheel-drive sedan easy. Those close ratios mean that second gear is done by about 50 mph. The N Line feels quicker than the Toyota Camry TRD, which hit 60 mph in 5.6 seconds in our testing. If it turns out to be quicker than the Accord 2.0T automatic’s 5.4-second time, it could be the quickest front-wheel-drive mid-size family sedan out there, but we won’t know until we get it to our test track.

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    Unfortunately, there’s a downside to all that power. It’s been a while since we’ve complained about torque steer, but heavy applications of throttle are felt through the Hyundai’s steering. It doesn’t turn the clock back 20 years, changing lanes on its own at the hit like a supercharged Pontiac Bonneville SSEi—not even close—but you’ll know you bought a front-wheel-drive car every time you put your foot down.
    All that power churning through the front wheels is apparent on a tight mountain road. Despite those meaty Continental Premium Contact 6 summer tires sized 245/40R-19 (Pirelli P Zero all seasons are standard), the Hyundai has considerably more oomph than forward bite. Engage Sport mode, which disables the Sonata’s traction control, and it’ll spin its front tires out of tight second-gear corners, generating graceful whiffs of white tire smoke that travel up and over the windshield. It isn’t as fun as it sounds as the tires scream and squeal for life. Don’t listen to their pleas to slow down. Keep pressing, and the Continentals prove they have more grip to give.

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    The N engineers also retuned the chassis with significantly stiffer powertrain mounts, firmer dampers, and thicker anti-roll bars. The ride quality is sporty but comfortable, and there’s more than respectable lateral grip and steering feel. The Sonata N Line is capable of real pace in the hills, understeering only mildly when you overcook a tight corner, but it’s happiest in faster open sections, where it can stretch its legs and put its power down.
    Larger 13.6-inch front and 12.8-inch rear brake rotors are also part of the deal. The pedal is reassuringly firm around town, and they feel good in the hills right up to the point when they overheat. The N Line weighs more than 3500 pounds, and it pulls like a freight train down the straights. The brakes get a workout. If you’re really on it, they’re cooked in just a few miles.

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    Tweaks to the sedan’s interior and exterior are mild but meaningful. Unlike TRD, which has dressed the Camry fast and furiously, Hyundai has taken a more conservative path while still following the sports-sedan dress code. There are a few small N Line badges scattered about and a new front fascia with three large air intakes. Its rump is redressed with four exhaust pipes, a black lower bumper, and, of course, a diffuser. The wheels have a complex 20-spoke design.
    Inside we expected the three-spoke steering wheel from the Elantra N, but the Sonata sticks with the Sonata’s four-spoke unit. The push-button shifter also carries over from the regular Sonata. The N Line bits are limited to a nice set of sports seats wrapped in leather and suede. Standard features include a digital gauge cluster that displays simple round dials, a big 10.3-inch infotainment touchscreen, a Bose premium audio system, a panoramic sunroof, and Hyundai’s digital key, which can turn your phone into the car’s key.
    At $34,195, it isn’t the cheapest option in the class, but the engine and chassis make it a strong value. The problem is that the same money gets you a rear-drive 255-hp Kia Stinger. We’d pick the Stinger over the Sonata N Line, and we don’t even have to lose much sleep on that choice.


    2021 Hyundai Sonata N-Line
    VEHICLE TYPE front-engine, front-wheel-drive, 5-passenger, 4-door sedan
    BASE PRICE $34,195
    ENGINE TYPE turbocharged and intercooled DOHC 16-valve inline-4, aluminum block and head, port and direct fuel injectionDisplacement 152 in3, 2497 cm3Power 290 hp @ 5800 rpmTorque 311 lb-ft @ 1650 rpm
    TRANSMISSION 8-speed dual-clutch automatic
    DIMENSIONS Wheelbase: 111.8 inLength: 192.9 inWidth: 73.2 inHeight: 56.9 inPassenger volume: 105 ft3Trunk volume: 16 ft3Curb weight (C/D est): 3550 lb
    PERFORMANCE (C/D EST) 60 mph: 5.4 sec100 mph: 18.0 sec1/4 mile: 13.7 secTop speed: 150 mph
    EPA FUEL ECONOMY Combined/city/highway: 27/23/33 mpg

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    2022 Subaru BRZ Gets Prettier and More Powerful

    Cresting 100 mph down the back straight at the top of fourth gear, it’s clear the former Formula 1 driver isn’t exactly challenged by the speed of the new 2022 Subaru BRZ. Just before he breathes off the throttle and slides the car through a fast right-hand kink, which is followed by a hard braking zone for a tight left-hander, Scott Speed casually removes his right hand from the wheel, points to the sports car’s new digital gauge cluster, and says, “I really like the g-meter. It’s fun to watch it move around as I drive around the track.”

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    The winner of four straight American Rallycross Championships, Speed may not be sweating the pace of the redesigned rear-drive four-seat coupe, but he is enjoying its dynamics, drifting it around most corners and relishing its balance and response. “There’s more traction than before,” he says. “But biggest difference between this and the old car is the additional horsepower. It gives you so much more control over the car’s attitude. I can pitch it in and drift it out just like the old car, but now I can do it more precisely and I can keep it sliding longer.”
    Our brief racetrack ridealong with Speed lasts just a lap and a half, but the new BRZ’s additional grip and grunt are apparent from the passenger seat. The car is still small, light, low, and tossable, just like the original, but it also feels tighter and considerably more powerful.

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    Stiffer Chassis and Suspension
    Like the original, which has been around since 2012, the second generation of the BRZ is a collaboration between Subaru and Toyota, which will again sell its own version called the 86. Toyota once again handled the design, while engineering and construction are Subaru’s end of the deal. The sports car’s chassis carried over, but some new materials and adhesives taken from Subaru’s Global Platform have increased the rigidity of its front end by 60 percent. “The stiffer chassis allowed us to stiffen the suspension mounting points, as well as the suspension tuning itself but still with a focus on improving its ride quality,” said Michael Redic, Subaru’s car-line planning manager for the BRZ, WRX, and Forester.
    Subaru’s engineers also made a slight increase to the rear track. The geometry of its strut front suspension is unchanged. There’s still some body roll but less than before, and the compliance of the suspension feels right as Speed bounces the car off the track’s tall curbs and runs it out over the rumble strips.
    When it goes on sale early fall 2021, two models will be available, and the biggest performance difference between the two will be the tires. The Premium will ride on an as-yet-undisclosed set of 17-inch all-seasons sized 215/45R-17. Speed is driving a BRZ Limited, which rides on Michelin Pilot Sport 4 summer tires wrapped around attractive 18-inch 10-spoke alloys. That’s the same rubber you now get on the STI-tuned BRZ tS.

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    If you don’t think a tire can make a big difference, take the current BRZ’s skidpad result of 0.90 g and compare it to the BRZ tS’s 0.98 g. With its curb weight remaining below 2900 pounds, those numbers won’t get worse.
    Subaru has also retuned the stability-control system, which has five settings, to allow more driver input before the nannies step in. The system can still be turned off completely. The current BRZ is available with a Performance Package that includes Brembo brakes and other performance upgrades. A similar package for the 2022 model won’t be available at launch, but one is coming.
    More Power, but Still No Turbo
    If you’ve been waiting for a turbo—many BRZ fans have been—you’re about to be disappointed. There isn’t one. “Everyone wants to know why no turbo,” said Dominick Infante, Subaru’s director of corporate communications. “Naturally aspirated keeps it affordable.”

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    Instead, Subaru replaced the BRZ’s current 2.0-liter flat-four with its 2.4-liter of the same configuration. It features Toyota’s D-4S port and direct fuel-injection system, 13.5:1 compression ratio, and chain-driven double overhead cams with variable timing. “It’s basically an Ascent engine without the turbo,” Infante said.
    The 100-hp bump many have been hoping for isn’t happening, but the 2.4-liter’s 228 horsepower at 7000 rpm and 184 pound-feet of torque at 3700 rpm is a considerable improvement over the 205 horsepower and 156 pound-feet of its predecessor. That’s 18 percent more torque, and it hits at a much lower rpm—the old car’s torque peak was at 6400 rpm—which certainly explains the BRZ’s stronger pull out of those second-gear corners. Redline has dipped slightly, from 7700 rpm to 7500 rpm.

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    Two years ago, the BRZ tS shot to 60 mph in 6.3 seconds. It’ll be interesting to see if this additional power can get the coupe down into the five-second zone. Both a six-speed manual transmission and a six-speed automatic will be offered, and the automatic gets a new Sport mode with quicker response, rev matching, and more aggressive gear selection during hard driving. A limited-slip differential will be standard across the board.
    More Muscular Design
    By now you’ve checked out the photos, so you know the BRZ will also get much better looking. Toyota’s design team put in some overtime this time around, improving its proportions, stance, and muscularity without adding size. The car sits a bit lower than before, and overall length increases by less than an inch.
    The roof, hood, and front fenders are aluminum to keep weight down, and all the ducts are functional. Those big front scoops cool the brakes, and the large front fender vents, which remind us of the Lexus RC F, allow hot air to escape from the engine compartment. The BRZ’s subtle double-bubble roof remains, but its greenhouse was narrowed by about three-quarters of an inch, giving its curvaceous hips more visual pop. Though the same width as before, the car looks considerably wider, especially from the rear, which features two big chrome exhaust pipes and a cleanly integrated ducktail spoiler. Squint, and it kinda looks like an Aston Martin Vantage. Maybe. A little. From some angles. Keep squinting.

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    If you’ve been waiting for Subaru to chop the BRZ’s top, give up the dream. “We have no plans for a convertible,” Infante said. “It’s not our thing.”
    Inside, the occupants sit slightly closer together but not enough to matter. The interior design is evolutionary, but it’s also a significant improvement. The dash is still a sea of hard plastic, but it doesn’t look as cheap. The secondary controls look and function better, and the new digital gauge cluster has two configurations, both of which keep the tach front and center, where it should be.
    The front seats are new, but they look and feel about the same as before. Still useless for human passengers, the back seats fold to expand the trunk. On the tech side, EyeSight will be available, and the BRZ infotainment system gets an 8.0-inch touchscreen and Apple CarPlay and Android Auto connectivity.

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    Subaru has sold just more than 41,000 BRZs since 2012, which isn’t much, but its average buyers are youngsters in their early 30s. Only the WRX brings younger buyers to the brand. In an effort to keep that small but desirable crowd of enthusiasts coming back, Subaru kept the BRZ small and desirable, thoughtfully resisting the temptation to add steamroller tires and a boosted engine to one of our favorite back-road bombers.
    “We kept to the original formula of a lightweight, compact, rear-drive sports car,” said Infante. “If we grew the car too much, that would have changed the overall character of the car, and it took a lot of work to keep the car this small, light, fun, and affordable.”
    We’ll know more about just how fun it is when we actually get behind the wheel sometime in 2021.
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    2013 Subaru BRZ First Drive

    Some things just don’t make sense. Why is the food at Outback Steakhouse mostly Cajun style? Why can’t Jennifer Aniston find true love? And why would Subaru and Toyota, two companies whose fortunes are built on mainstream sedan sales, collaborate on a rear-drive sports car?

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    The latter question is a bit easier to answer from the Subaru BRZ perspective. For one, Subaru has a currently breathing reputation for building sporty cars: They may sell in limited volumes, but the WRX and STI are nevertheless Subarus. And Subaru says that the engine in its BRZ, a 2.0-liter flat-four making its first public appearance in this car, will form the basis of its next turbo motor. For its part, Toyota says that its version of the car—to be sold as the Toyota 86 in Japan, as the GT 86 in at least the U.K., and as the Scion FR-S here—makes sense as a first thrust in its plan to again build sporty, fun-to-drive vehicles. Still, this isn’t a car that most people saw coming from either manufacturer.
    Cheese Fries, Please!
    Then again, regardless of the boomerangs mounted on the walls and the “Chaze Frois, Plaze!” coasters, Outback Steakhouse’s Alice Springs chicken is delicious—and devastatingly unhealthy, but that’s beside the point. The BRZ is likewise delectable; our only gripe about the way it drives is a chassis that leads to understeer at the limit. That, however, is much less likely to give you a heart attack than a jumbo honey-mustard-marinated chicken bosom hidden under a pile of bacon and smothered in melted cheese. Indeed, right up until the nose starts to chatter off line, Subaru’s new coupe is gifted with exceptional balance and clairvoyant reflexes.

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    The understeer isn’t a deal breaker; with perfectly timed and moderated inputs (or with huge, pimp-slap jerks on the wheel and heavy stomps on the go pedal), it is possible to avoid it all together and turn it into delicious oversteer. When the rear end goes, even in the wet, the BRZ slides slowly and progressively. It’s so easy to catch that you might find yourself fishing in your pocket for spare change with one hand while the other meters yaw around an off-ramp. (Subaru says that Toyota’s suspension tune will vary slightly, a tad softer in the front and stiffer out back.) The brake pedal feels a little less wired than the rest of the car, but the binders wind the speedo back toward 0 in a hurry.
    Conducting the chassis is steering that is more immediate than anything this side of the Lotus factory. Its heft is perfect for resisting unintentional inputs at the limit. Feedback falls short of perfection, but only slightly; blame the electric steering if you must. The electric motor assisting the BRZ’s rack is mounted high up on the firewall, contributing to a slightly higher center of gravity but simultaneously shifting the front/rear weight balance a touch rearward.

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    Weight Watchers
    In developing the BRZ, Subaru took an almost maniacal approach to weight and its management, keeping it low and evenly distributed between the car’s axles. The company claims that 54 percent of this car’s mass rides on the front wheels and 46 over the rear, and says that its center of gravity is right around 18 inches high. That latter figure rivals or beats the measurements for the Porsche Cayman and Mazda RX-8, among others.
    Helping keep the mass snug against Mother Earth is the FA flat-four. Compared to the FB four found in other Subies, the FA’s intake is 2.6 inches lower and the oil pan clings closer to the crankcase, allowing it to be mounted with its crankshaft centerline 2.4 inches lower. Amazingly, the engine is mounted 9.4 inches farther back in the chassis than an Impreza’s four. A Subaru spokesman says the two engines share “maybe a few screws,” but are otherwise completely separate pieces. We’re told the weight difference between the two is negligibly in favor of the A. Placing the engine so far rearward of course helps balance the car, but it also precludes Subaru from fitting an all-wheel-drive system. The company says that it has no room for a turbocharger either, but after peering under the hood, we disagree. Besides, Subaru desperately needs something to tie this car to the rest of its lineup, and a turbocharged STI model would be the perfect solution. Although the BRZ doesn’t need more power, it certainly could handle more. We’re guessing that a turbo will be part of whatever mid-cycle updates this car sees in two or three years.

    Despite a displacement difference of just 3 cc, the naturally aspirated FA and FB fours have dramatically different outputs. The B’s 148 hp and 145 lb-ft of torque (as installed in the Impreza) lag 52 and 6 behind the A’s 200 and 151—Subaru’s stated output—while the A’s 7400-rpm redline is 800 higher. Thank Toyota’s fuel-injection setup, which squirts both via intake ports and directly into the cylinder—the system is Big T’s lone contribution to the engine—and allows a crushing compression ratio of 12.5:1. “Crushing” is not a descriptor we’d employ for the acceleration, although we estimate a 0-to-60-mph time of around six seconds flat with the six-speed manual; add a couple of tenths with the six-speed auto. Top speed is said to be 143 mph. A resonator pipes sound into the cabin, and above 5000 rpm, there’s enough noise inside the car that you’ll need to scream to talk. Not that you’ll be having much conversation. That said, we wouldn’t call the quality of the sound unmistakable; it could be taken for a number of undesirable things. Having heard what aftermarket exhaust companies do for other Subaru flat-fours, though, we’re confident that they can coax a better voice out of this 7400-rpm screamer.
    In spite of its higher output, the FA should still manage 30 mpg on the highway, according to Subaru. Underbody paneling helps keep a clean aerodynamic profile, although the company still hasn’t decided if the treatment will be standard on all U.S. cars or only on higher trim levels.

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    Even the Weenies are Treated Well
    As mentioned, two six-speeds are available, a manual and an automatic. Following our drive of the BRZ in Japan, the manual had us seeking a temple at which we might make an offering of thanks. The clutch pedal is a touch light—and a touch light on feel—but snaps to attention right off the floor and engages smoothly, and the stubby shifter snicks between gates with ease. Heretics who buy their sports cars with automatics will at least get a good unit. There are two modes in the Subaru: Drive and Sport. Wheel-mounted paddles are standard; in D, the transmission allows them to make gearchange suggestions but still upshifts at redline and downshifts when the driver floors the accelerator. In Sport mode, however, paddle commands are gospel—the way God’s lazy, automatic-driving half-brother intended.
    While most of the engineering and chassis work is Subaru’s doing, the styling fell to Toyota. It apparently drew a basic coupe shape and—well, it must have seen it created something less than sultry but stuck with it anyway. It’s good enough. The view from abaft is actually fairly exciting, with the slope of the greenhouse hesitating just slightly to form a decklid before tumbling into the rear fascia. Only the front fascia, badges, and maybe wheels separate the BRZ from its Toyota—and Scion—sibling. The suggestion of flares on the front fenders merely alludes to the muscular (some might say exaggerated) styling of the various concept cars, but the U-shaped view from the driver’s seat over the scooped-out hood is at least unique. Visibility in all directions is much better than most sports cars.

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    Interior space, on the other hand, is just about par. It’s fine up front, and average/shortish adults might even be happy in the back for shorter trips. Subie touts this as the shortest rear-drive 2+2 on the market. So it is. It also says that the car can accommodate a forward-facing child seat in the back. A rear-facing seat, on the other hand, would probably only fit if the parent riding shotgun rides shotgun in a car following behind. The trunk will hold just seven cubic feet of stuff, although both halves of the rear seatback fold for larger loads. According to Subaru, the space was designed from the beginning to hold a set of racing tires and a toolbox in this configuration, although that claim coincided with a PowerPoint slide entitled “Unexpected Utility”; we suspect that’s probably the real story behind the tire-hauling ability. Or maybe that’s why the tires are just 215 millimeters wide, as fitting a set in the car requires a two-tire stack.
    The BRZ goes on sale in spring of 2012 as an early ’13 model, at a base price we’re now told will be around $25,000. Asked to make sense of the BRZ, a Subaru representative says, “It makes sense if you sell enough of them.” In the U.S., Subaru thinks that 5000­ to 7000 per year would be enough. Ultimately, though, a car this good doesn’t need to make sense: Its brilliance is all the explanation we need.


    2013 Subaru BRZ
    VEHICLE TYPE front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2+2-passenger, 2-door coupe
    ENGINE TYPE DOHC 16-valve flat-4, aluminum block and heads, port and direct fuel injectionDisplacement122 in3, 1998 cm3Power 200 hp @ 7000 rpmTorque 151 lb-ft @ 6400 rpm
    TRANSMISSIONS 6-speed manual, 6-speed automatic with manual shifting mode
    DIMENSIONSWheelbase: 101.2 inLength: 166.9 inWidth: 69.9 inHeight: 51.2 inCurb weight: 2800-2900 lb
    PERFORMANCE (C/D EST) Zero to 60 mph: 6.0-6.2 secZero to 100 mph: 15.5-15.7 secStanding ¼-mile: 14.7-14.9 secTop speed: 143 mph
    PROJECTED FUEL ECONOMY (C/D EST)EPA city/highway driving: 19/27 mpg

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    The 10 Best RV Air Conditioners to Buy 2020

    Traveling in an RV is a statement all on its own. It’s a way to tell yourself and others that it’s not just about the destination but about the journey. But you won’t enjoy the journey very much if you’re hot and sweaty through most of it. That’s why it’s so important to have a dependable air conditioner installed in your recreational vehicle.
    We’ve put together this guide to cover everything that you need to know about air conditioning for your RV. Before getting to our recommendations of the best products, let’s find out what you need to know before making that decision for yourself.

    What You Need to Know Before Buying an RV Air Conditioner
    There are a few pieces of information that you need to keep in mind when buying a new RV air conditioner.
    Types of RV Air Conditioners
    There are three main types of RV air conditioners to choose from: rooftop, window and portable.
    Rooftop RV Air Conditioners
    The most commonly used RV air conditioners are rooftop-mounted ones. They are the most powerful type of ACs on average. Another benefit they offer is that they sit on the roof, which means that you save space within your RV.
    There are two ways in which rooftop RV air conditioners are powered. Some may have a control panel that’s also mounted on the ceiling. Others will have a wire that connects the AC to the thermostat in your vehicle.
    The Dometic Brisk II is a great rooftop RV air conditioner.
    There are two types of rooftop RV air conditioners. Non-ducted RV ACs blow air out of their own body. Ducted rooftop ACs, as you’ve probably guessed by now, are connected to the air ducts in your RV. This ensures an even distribution of air throughout the vehicle. The Dometic Penguin II is a great ducted RV air conditioner.
    Window RV Air Conditioners
    Just like rooftop RV air conditioners, window ACs conserve space within your RV. They will, however, block the view you have from one of your windows because that’s where they sit and pull warm air out of your recreational vehicle.
    The challenge with finding a good window RV air conditioner is getting one that’s the right size. Different RVs have windows that are of different sizes. You will have to find an AC that matches the dimensions of your window to make it work.
    Another drawback of using this type of RV air conditioner is that they block your window. So make sure that you have other ways to get natural light into your RV before buying one.
    The Home Labs HME020003N is a product to consider if you’re looking for a window-mounted RV air conditioner.
    Portable RV Air Conditioners
    Let’s say you don’t want to block light coming through your window and don’t want to lug a big AC up onto your RV’s roof. You don’t have to consign yourself to warm, sweaty days in your RV. You can, instead, use a portable air conditioner to cool your vehicle.
    Portable RV air conditioners are great because the installation process is, well, barely a process at all — especially compared to the other kinds of RV ACs. An AC like the SereneLife SLACHT108 can be brought into your RV and connected to the power for quick cooling.
    Portable RV air conditioners are usually not as powerful as their roof- and window-mounted counterparts. They also take up space on the floor, which is an important factor to take into consideration.
    RV Air Conditioner Size and Weight
    Another factor to take into account is the size and weight of the air conditioner you’re purchasing. A low-profile RV air conditioner like the Dometic Penguin II is designed to be aerodynamic and creates less drag as a result.
    The weights of RV air conditioners run the gamut. Rooftop ACs, as mentioned earlier, tend to be on the heavier side. There are, however, lighter RV ACs out there. The Frigidaire White Energy Star and Black + Decker BPACT10WT are two great lightweight RV air conditioners.
    How many BTUs Do you Need?
    The most important metric that determines your choice will be what’s expressed as British Thermal Units, or BTU for short. This is a measure of how well an AC can cool a particular space. Most RVs measure between 200 and 300 ft, so even the smallest option can adequately cool your average RV.
    Choosing the capacity of your RV air conditioner is not an exact science. If you own a supersized RV, you will want an air conditioner that has more than 13,500 BTU, like the Dometic Brisk II or Airxcel Mach 15. These can easily cool RVs up to 1,000 square feet in size.
    If you own a smaller RV, your BTU requirements are also smaller. RVs up to 500 square feet in size can use air conditioners with a capacity of between 8,000 and 12,000 BTU. The Black + Decker BPACT10WT is an air conditioner that falls in that range.
    Those who own standard-sized RVs, up to 300 square feet in size, can make do with an air conditioner that’s between 5,000 and 7,000 BTU. The Frigidaire White Energy Star is a great 5,000 BTU RV air conditioner.
    With these key concepts in mind, let’s get into our list of great RV air conditioners that can keep you cool as you pile the summer road.

    Top 10 Best RV Air Conditioners 2020
    1. Best Overall RV Air Conditioner: Dometic Brisk

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: The Dometic Brisk II is a powerful RV air conditioner that can be used for both heating and cooling.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    BTU: 15,000 BTU
    Installation type: Rooftop (ducted/non-ducted)
    Weight: 74 pounds
    Dimensions: 29.18 x 27.23 x 12.7 inches
    The Dometic Brisk II covers almost every base there is when it comes to RV air conditioners.
    The first question that springs to mind about a new air conditioner unit is whether it is easy to install. The Dometic Brisk II weighs 74 pounds, so you may need a step ladder and a helping hand to get it onto your RV. But once you’ve done that, it is just a 30-minute job to get it up and running.
    Once the unit is atop the RV, start by bolting down the AC by lining it up with the holes on the vehicle. You can then attach the wires to get the unit powered and running. It’s really that simple.
    With less powerful AC units, it can be hard to get the temperature in your vehicle under 80 degrees if it’s 95+ degrees outside. This RV air conditioner, however, can maintain temperatures in the low 70s even on very hot days.
    Other times of the year, you may need an AC that provides heating. The Dometic Brisk II comes with a heat pump, so you can also use it to heat your RV, making it very versatile.
    The Dometic Brisk II does, however, have a few minor shortcomings. Because of its impressive output, the Dometic Brisk II can be a little loud at times. Fencing off the air conditioner can help dampen some of the noise if it gets too annoying.
    Although a great overall RV air conditioner, the Dometic Brisk II is not the most low-profile rooftop AC. If that’s what you’re looking for, then the Dometic Penguin II is a more appropriate product.

    Easy to install
    Comes with a heat pump
    Maintains cool temperatures easily

    Can be loud

    2. Best Budget RV Air Conditioner: Frigidaire White Energy Star

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: The Frigidaire White Energy Star is low on energy requirements and is perfect for single-room cooling.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance
    BTU: 5,000 BTU
    Installation type: Window
    Weight: 49.2 pounds
    Dimensions: 17.75 x 17 x 14.75 inches
    Sometimes, all you need is an air conditioner that can cool one room of your RV well – or you just have a small RV. If that’s what you’re looking for, then the Frigidaire White Energy Star is your best bet. Don’t let this product’s seemingly low 5,000 BTU rating fool you. It’s meant to be used for rooms up to 150 square feet in size. This makes it perfect for single rooms in your RV.
    An added benefit of the Frigidaire White Energy Star’s modest aspirations is its energy efficiency. The product’s energy efficiency ratio (the ratio between cooling capacity in BTU to its input wattage) is 11.1. An EER value of 12 is considered very good for AC units, so this Frigidaire unit does well on that scale.
    The Frigidaire White Energy Star is a window-mounted air conditioner. It comes with a window mounting kit so that you can go about installing it straight away.
    This AC is perfect for RV owners looking to cool rooms of their vehicle on a budget. It consumes a low amount of energy and is relatively quiet as a result. This is the kind of product you’ll love if you own a smaller RV.
    Portable ACs are also a great way to cool small rooms. The Black + Decker BPACT10WT is the most portable RV air conditioner on the market.

    Low energy requirements
    Relatively quiet
    Comes with window-mounting kit

    Can be used to cool only one room

    3. Best Premium RV Air Conditioner: Airxcel Mach 15

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: This RV air conditioner boasts impressive performance and the ability to sustain that performance in high temperatures over long periods.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance
    BTU: 15,000 BTU
    Installation type: Rooftop (ducted/non-ducted)
    Weight: 90 pounds
    Dimensions: 42.00 x 28.00 x 16.00 inches
    The real test of an RV air conditioner is whether it can keep you cool through searing temperatures outside. Let’s say you’re dealing with 110-degree dry heat in Arizona, for example. The Airxcel Mach 15 is the kind of air conditioner that can keep your RV cool in those conditions without signs of being overworked. It can take inside temperatures from 90 degrees to 50 degrees in as little as 10 minutes.
    Getting this RV air conditioner up and running is an easy process. The unit is designed for the 14×14 AC vent, which is standard, and the amount of wiring work required to kick it into action is minimal. It’s the kind of job most RV owners can do on their own. You will, however, need help getting the unit up onto your RV because of its weight.
    Under the hood, the Airxcel Mach 15 uses a combination of gas-flux joints and copper tubing. These combine with the condenser coils to create a system that can cool an RV for long hours in warm conditions. Since it is capable of high cooling output, this AC works best in a ducted setup. However, it can also be used as a non-ducted AC by using a ceiling assembly kit.

    Powerful cooling capabilities
    Easy install
    Sustained performance

    Heavy, you will need help hoisting it onto your RV

    4. Most Portable RV Air Conditioner: Black + Decker BPACT10WT

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: The Black + Decker BPACT10WT is an affordable portable RV air conditioner with multiple modes of use.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    BTU: 10,000 BTU
    Installation type: Portable
    Weight: 52.9 pounds
    Dimensions: 16.5 x 11.5 x 26 inches
    Portable air conditioners offer benefits that you can’t get with an AC that’s mounted in your window or roof. Firstly, they consume less energy than larger mounted units. They can also be moved around easily, which is something you can’t do with a mounted unit. The Black + Decker BPACT10WT offers these benefits in a product that performs supremely well.
    This portable RV air conditioner comes in a compact body that can generate 10,000 BTU. This means that it is best suited for areas 250 square feet or under, which translates to RVs that are 31 feet in size. If you own an RV that falls within that size, you can’t do better than the Black + Decker BPACT10WT. If you need a portable RV air conditioner that is slightly more feature-rich and don’t mind some additional weight, the SereneLife SLACHT108 is a good choice.
    This RV air conditioner offers three different modes that you can run it on. The first is the standard cool setting, for when you want to use it as an AC. On cooler days, you can switch to the fan setting just to keep the air flowing. It also offers a third dehumidifier mode. You can use this AC’s dehumidifying feature without having to deal with filling and emptying water containers. A hose adapter that comes with the product releases excess water out the window.

    Easily portable
    Compact body
    Multimode use

    Not fit for areas larger than 250 square feet

    5. SereneLife SLACHT108

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: The SereneLife SLACHT108 is one of the most feature-rich portable RV air conditioners on the market.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    BTU: 10,000 BTU
    Installation type: Portable
    Weight: 62.6 pounds
    Dimensions: 17. 4 x 13. 4 x 32. 1 inches
    RV owners usually equate portable air conditioners with compromising on certain kinds of features. And that’s true to some extent; you can’t expect the same cooling capacity as other kinds. However, as the SereneLife SLACHT108 shows, you can have your cake and eat it too with the right portable RV air conditioner.
    Installing this AC is a quick process. Everything you need to get that done comes out of the box. This unit doesn’t take too much space, which is a boon for anyone who owns an RV.
    Once you have it set up, there are a lot of features you can play around with. The SereneLife SLACHT108 has four operating modes: cooling, heating, dehumidifying, and a fan mode. You can use the remote control to set the mode as well as play around with the fan speed, temperature, and other things.
    A major drawback with the SereneLife SLACHT108 is that it can be loud: very loud. This article shows you a few ways you can quiet down a loud RV air conditioner.

    Multi-mode operation
    Can be controlled remotely
    Easy to install

    Can be loud

    6. Airxcel Mach 3

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: The Airxcel Mach 3 is easy to install and can cool an entire RV all on its own.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    BTU: 13,500 BTU
    Installation type: Rooftop
    Weight: 79.5 pounds
    Dimensions: 41 x 28 x 16 inches
    Let’s say it’s a hot day out there. The mercury touches 90 degrees, which means that it’s definitely time to get your RV air conditioner up and running. The Airxcel Mach 3 is the kind of AC that can have the temperature inside your RV at about 70 degrees within 25 minutes. That’s the kind of cooling power you’re grateful for when it’s a hot day in the RV.
    The hardest part about installing this RV air conditioner is getting it up on top of your RV. If you can get that done, you’re faced with a simple installation process. The 1-inch rubber seals that come with the unit have arrows that show you exactly how far to tighten them. After securing the AC to the RV, it’s very easy to plug in and power it up. The whole process takes only about an hour.
    The Airxcel Mach 3 works dependably for long periods of time. It is built well and you can expect to get multiple years of use from it. You may have a difficult time telling the difference between the different fan modes of the AC. But it works like a charm when you switch to the cooling mode.

    Easy to install
    Quick cooling

    Different levels in the fan mode may not always feel very different

    7. Best Low-Profile Rooftop RV Air Conditioner: Dometic Penguin II

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: The Dometic Penguin II has a sleek design that reduces wind drag and minimizes fuel consumption.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    BTU: 13,500 BTU
    Installation type: Rooftop (ducted/non-ducted)
    Weight: 118 pounds
    Dimensions: 42 x 30 x 12 inches
    Most high-capacity RV air conditioners can be conspicuous and resource-intensive. And that’s why low-profile rooftop ACs like the Dometic Penguin II stand out. This is an AC that’s designed to maintain a low profile, which has several benefits.
    The first big benefit of a low-profile rooftop air conditioner is that it reduces wind drag. The Dometic Penguin II sits low on your RV roof so that the entire vehicle is more aerodynamic. This is helpful for when you want to zip around in your RV and reduces fuel consumption over the long run.
    The Dometic Penguin II does all of that without falling short in the performance department. It cranks out 13,500 BTU, which is sufficient capacity for RVs sized about 675 square feet – enough for almost all RVs on the market.
    The one drawback with the Dometic Penguin II is that it doesn’t always maintain a low profile when it comes to the amount of noise it produces. But it’s never so loud that it is disruptive to your overall RV experience.

    Aerodynamic design
    Enhanced fuel usage
    Strong performance

    Can be loud at times

    8. Best Window-Mounted RV Air Conditioner: Home Labs HME020003N

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: The Home Labs HME020003N is a sturdily built air conditioner that will fit in most RV windows.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    BTU: 5,000
    Installation type: Window
    Weight: 36.5 pounds
    Dimensions: 16 x 15.4 x 12 inches
    The Home Labs HME020003N is built to be compact so that it can sit snugly in RV window units. The product has dimensions of 16 x 15.4 x 12 inches. The small size means that this air conditioner will fit in most windows unless you have extremely tiny windows in your RV.
    Although this AC is small, it is by no means a flimsy product. The body is built using materials that feel premium. The buttons are sturdy and don’t feel like you’ll damage them quickly.
    The Home Labs HME020003N is perfect for cooling small rooms. The 5,000 BTU it produces can quickly take a 150 square foot-sized room from warm to cold in a hurry. For larger spaces, however, you will need an air conditioner with a higher capacity.
    This RV air conditioner produces some white noise, but isn’t what you’d consider loud. You can have the AC running and hear your TV without cranking the volume up to unreasonable levels. So this one is good for your RV and for your ears.

    Compatible with most RVs
    High-quality build
    Not overly noisy

    Not suitable for spaces above 150 square feet

    9. Best RV Air Conditioner Air Distribution Box: Dometic 3314851

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: The Dometic 3314851 is a great accessory to distribute air from a non-ducted RV air conditioner – just keep in mind it won’t do the job by itself.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a glance:
    Installation type: Rooftop attachment
    Weight: 10 pounds
    Dimensions: 23 x 21 x 2 inches
    This one isn’t an RV air conditioner on its own but performs an important function as an AC accessory. The Dometic 3314851 is an air distribution box, which means that it distributes air channeled into it. It’s a great product to have when you have to use a non-ducted AC but want to circulate the air from it.
    The Dometic 3314851 does that by first connecting to your existing rooftop air conditioner. If you have a roof that’s thicker than 4 inches, you will need to purchase the Dometic Bolt Kit to make the installation happen. This product works well with high-capacity ACs, such as ones with a rating of 15,000 BTU.
    Once connected to the rooftop AC, the Dometic 3314851 distributes air evenly across your RV. The Dometic 3314851 also acts as a control unit for your AC.

    Distributes air from non-ducted ACs
    Can handle high-capacity air conditioners
    Doubles up as a control unit

    Requires additional accessory for roofs thicker than 4 inches
    Not a full AC unit

    10. Best Non-ducted RV Air Conditioner: Atwood 15026

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: The Atwood 15026 is a non-ducted RV air conditioner that comes with a remote, making it easy to control
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    BTU: 15,000
    Installation type: Rooftop
    Weight: 88 pounds
    Dimensions: 40 x 28 x 15 inches
    We saw that products like the Dometic Penguin II and Airxcel Mach 15 can be used in both ducted and non-ducted setups. The Atwood 15026 is the first one on our list that works exclusively as a non-ducted RV air conditioner. Since it works only as a non-ducted AC, it’s a lot easier to set up in that environment.
    This RV air conditioner has a capacity of 15,000 BTU, which means that it is more than sufficient to cool large spaces. But cooling is not the only thing it does. The heat pump that it comes with can be used to heat your RV if you’re suddenly faced with a cold day. That said, the heat pump can run into problems at lower temperatures. You may not get the heating levels you want at temperatures under 42 degrees.
    Perhaps the best part about using the Atwood 15026 is that it comes with a remote. That means that you can control the AC without having to get up to change the temperature. Admit it: an AC that indulges your laziness is every RV owner’s dream.
    Installing the Atwood 15026 couldn’t be any easier. Once you have it in the AC slot, you can attach it using the 4-bolt bracket. The gaskets come attached to the product. After attaching the unit, you can connect ground, neutral, and hot wires to get it running.

    Comes with a remote
    High capacity
    Easy to install

    Heat pump is not always dependable

    Everything You Need to Know About RV Air Conditioners
    Most RV air conditioners last a fairly long time. Choosing the right product for your RV is half the battle. Here are some other things you will have to deal with when it comes to RV air conditioners.
    How to Install an RV Air Conditioner
    The exact steps that you will follow to install an RV air conditioner depend both on the RV that you own and the AC that you buy. The specifics that you need to follow will be mentioned in the instruction manual that will come with the product. Here are a few general pointers to keep in mind. Note that these are assuming you’re installing a rooftop AC.
    Always Unplug the Power
    Disconnect the power to your existing AC and turn off the switch powering it in your breaker box. You don’t want any surprises when you make contact with the AC or any wiring that connects to it.
    Create a Slot for the AC
    Take some time to decide where in the roof of your RV the AC will go. Make sure that there aren’t any lights or anything else in the way. Choose a spot that’s at least ten inches from each edge of the roof.
    Once you’ve found a slot that checks all those boxes, it’s time to make a hole in the roof. This part can be scary so only proceed if you’re sure of your ability to work with metal roofing and power tools. Make sure to mark where the bolts need to go after making the hole.
    Mount the AC
    It’s finally time to get that AC up on your RV. We’ve seen that some RV air conditioners can be heavy, so you may need some help with this. Once you have the unit up on the roof, secure it using the mounting bolts, the location of which you marked in the previous step. Then step into your RV and install the bolts that go into the ceiling of the vehicle.
    You can apply a sealant to the areas where the AC makes contact with the RV’s metal roof. This lends additional stability to the installation.
    Wire It Up
    The final step involves connecting the wires in the AC to the RV. You can match the color of the wires to do this correctly. Refer to the instruction manual if you have any issues knowing where each wire goes.
    If you get this part right, you should be able to turn the power on and have your AC up and running.
    How to Refill an RV Air Conditioner
    There will be times when you’ll need to provide some juice to your RV air conditioner externally. This usually happens because refrigerant levels in the unit need to be replenished. Refer to your AC’s instruction manual to find out what kind of refrigerant the vehicle uses.
    Once you have the refrigerant, head up to your AC’s roof along with wrenches of a few different sizes. You can use those to take the lid off the AC. Make sure to lift the lid carefully so that you don’t damage it.
    The refrigerant gauge under the lid is what will tell you how much additional refrigerant your RV is thirsting for. Check the gauge and unscrew the port to refill the refrigerant.
    You may be eager to get that lid back on at this point, but not so fast. First, power your RV back on and test your AC’s cooling to make sure that it’s working properly again. After confirming that, head back up and get the lid back on.
    How to Clean and Maintain an RV Air Conditioner
    Using an RV air conditioner for a long time requires regular maintenance. There isn’t really a one-size-fits-all checklist that all RV owners can use to make sure that they’re maintaining their vehicle the right way. There are, however, a few different parts of the AC that you should check regularly to ensure they’re in good condition.
    Anything clogging the filters of your AC is sure to reduce the airflow through it. This can hamper the overall performance of the unit because clogged filters make the compressor work harder, leading to overheating. So check the filters regularly and make sure that they’re clean.
    The evaporator is the part of the AC that captures excess heat and transfers it outside your RV. The coils of the evaporator are usually made of copper and the fins are made of aluminum.
    You can clean the evaporator by taking the shroud off its top and taking apart the plenum. You can use a coil cleaner to do the cleaning.
    The compressor is another important component of RV air conditioners. You don’t need to check on these too regularly; maybe just once or twice a year. The main thing you’re trying to do here is to get rid of the debris that tends to collect on the body of the compressor.
    The easiest way to do that is by using a spray cleaner. These will unsettle the debris that sits on the compressor. You can then use a shop vac to clean up all the loosened debris.
    Frequently Asked Questions About RV Air Conditioners
    How long do RV air conditioners last?
    ACs from good brands, like the ones on this list, tend to last longer. We also just saw how it takes a fair amount of maintenance to keep your RV air conditioner running at optimal levels. If you get all of that right, you can expect your AC to last about five years on average.
    How Much Does Installing an RV AC Cost?
    Not everyone can install their RV air conditioner on their own, and that’s completely fine. If you need help installing a new AC, you can take it down to your shop. The price to install a new unit tends to be around $200-$300 on average.
    How Do I Know When It’s Time for a New RV Air Conditioner?
    If your AC isn’t working as you want it to, the first thing you need to do is check on a few components. First, check the fan motor to see if it’s working properly. You can use a multimeter to check if the motor is functioning like it should. If it is, move on to the compressor and check if it’s clean and working properly. Finally, check the refrigerant levels.
    If both these parts seem fine and your refrigerant is topped up, and your AC is still not performing at its best, it may be time to consider a new AC unit.
    The Cool Open Road
    Travels that you undertake in an RV are meant to be carefree and relaxing. The best way to maintain that spirit of recreation is by choosing an air conditioner that can keep you feeling cool as you make your way down the open road.
    We’ve covered the best of what’s out there and how you can choose which RV air conditioner is right for you. After making that choice, make sure to maintain the unit well so that you don’t have to think about another purchase for a while. And if you’re looking for ways to entertain yourself in your RV, check out our list of the best RV antennas. More

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    The 10 Best Glues for Car Plastic to Buy 2020

    There’s nothing cheap about owning a car, and even the slightest of collisions can result in frustrating repair bills. Making minor repairs yourself is a great way to save money and using good-quality plastic glue to make those repairs might save you a lot more than you think.
    The challenge is identifying which plastic glue is best for you, your vehicle, and the type of repair that you need to make. Remember that major repairs will require a lot more work than even the best plastic glues can accomplish. For smaller cracks and quick repairs though, glue can save both time and money.

    Factors to Consider When Buying Plastic Glue for Cars
    As well as being much easier to do yourself, using glue to make minor repairs to your car is significantly cheaper than alternative repair options like welding.
    In particular, glue is ideal for fixing seams due to its flexibility and natural water-resistance. After all, car parts typically require a degree of movement and are frequently exposed to water, moisture, and humidity. But while plastic is an incredibly useful material, it can be very demanding for standard types of glue. Most glue types struggle to bond with plastics, and that can make car repairs much more challenging.
    When you’re doing minor car repairs yourself (or even something major – like windshield repair), you need the best adhesives for the job. Here are the key factors to consider now you’ve decided to get your hands dirty with some plastic repair work.
    Glues that are suitable for fixing car plastics come in three main types. You’ll find each type within our product reviews, but for now, here’s a brief overview of your choices.
    Gel: the most common – easy to apply and dries solid
    Liquid: much more viscous, better suited for those with experience, but offers a hard seal once dry
    Spray: covers a wide area in one go, very time-efficient for larger jobs
    If you have a big repair job to get done, then you’re going to need a larger bottle. It makes sense to buy smaller tubes for smaller tasks because glue can dry out quickly, and it can suddenly become very difficult to remove caps and start using your tube. That just leads to wasted time and money. Some glues are designed with this in mind and will be a good investment, no matter the size of your repair job.
    Of course, you’ll also need to factor in shelf life. There’s no point keeping a tube of glue in your workspace (or your refrigerator) if it’s going to deteriorate to the point of not being useful when you need to make quick repairs.
    While some glues are clear and will remain so even after they have set, others have a more cloudy appearance, and others come in a black color. If the join you’re creating will be visible and you don’t want to reduce the value of your vehicle, then a clear glue will be the best option. If the join is going to be out of sight, then coloring will be less of an issue.
    We all know how messy glue can be, and that’s why you need to pay attention to the applicator. Even some of the best glues in the world have packaging problems and poorly designed nozzles, and the results can get very sticky indeed. Other glues will have a brush for smoother glue layers or for coating smaller parts. Our reviews detail all known issues with product applicators and packaging.
    The glue that holds the plastics in your car together needs to be as pliable as those plastics. If you use glue or adhesive that dries too solid, then it can more easily break if used on the plastic parts of your car that require flexibility. You need your glue to be able to move with the parts it is joined to without breaking the bond.
    Pliability at the time of application is also dependent on the dry time of the glue. To learn more about the expected dry time needed when gluing car plastics, check out our section here on setting time.
    Plastic glues for cars come in a wide range of prices, but more expensive doesn’t always mean it’s the best choice for you. In many cases, you’ll find that a cheaper, more suitable glue will do the job you need it for. Don’t get stuck on price if you have a very clear idea of what your repair job is going to be. Look instead at the glue that is designed for the job.
    With the above factors in mind, here is our top 10 list of the very best plastic glues for your car.

    Top 10 Best Glues for Car Plastic
    1. Best Overall Plastic Glue for Cars: E6000 230022 Medium Viscosity Adhesive

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    Why we like it: An industrial-scale glue that will do your car repair job easily and will bond parts of your car together so strongly that you may never need a replacement.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts
    Type: Gel
    Quantity: 1
    Size: 3.7 Fl Oz
    Color: Semi-transparent
    Incredible Bonds
    This E6000 is one tough glue. It’s perfectly suited for making car repairs, and even big jobs will be made much easier and cheaper when you use this very affordable, incredibly tough adhesive. The best thing about this glue is that it’s an excellent all-rounder and is ideal for beginners and professionals alike.
    This is a glue that will stick glass to glass and plastic to plastic, and that helps make it one of the best glues on the planet. For auto repairs, it’s hard to beat. It’s an amazing glue, and because it’s been designed to perform in industrial settings, it’s more than powerful enough for your car repairs.
    Strong Odor
    This is a glue that you must use in a ventilated space, although outdoors is even better. It’s incredibly strong-smelling and will give you a headache if you try to use it in a small room with no ventilation. Follow the instructions, and you’ll avoid that particular issue.
    While an excellent glue, the E6000Auto/Industrial Adhesive does take some practice when it comes to application. It’s very easy to squeeze out more glue than you need, and you’ll find that even when you stop squeezing the tube, more glue will continue to release. Use your angles and try to pour out less than you need because this can be a very hard glue to remove if misapplied.
    Size and Warnings
    This is a big tube of glue, so you’re not going to run out for a while, no matter how badly damaged your car is. Make sure that you allow for drying time, with those projects that are left to set from between 24 and 48 hours more likely to stay stuck. It’s worth noting that this particular glue does come with a warning that says that it “contains a chemical known to the state of California to cause cancer.”

    Incredibly tough
    Stays bonded despite temperature changes
    Can be used to stick almost anything to anything
    Large bottle

    Strong, potentially headache-inducing odor
    Tricky to apply without practice
    Scary warnings

    2. Best Premium Plastic Glue for Cars: Henkel-Loctite 1363589 Super Glue Ultra Gel Control

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    Why we like it: Much cleaner and easier to use than liquid glues, this Super Glue gel is also tough enough to make car repairs.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts
    Type: Gel
    Quantity: 4
    Size: 4g each
    Color: Transparent
    Easy to Use Gel
    Unlike the majority of plastic glues on this list, this Henkel-Loctite Super Glue is a gel, and that’s a major bonus point. That’s simply because it is so easy to apply and much easier than liquid glues, which are prone to making a mess. The glue itself is incredibly tough and durable, dries quickly, and will last for a long time no matter what kind of car repairs you’re carrying out.
    The tip on this container is incredibly well-designed too, and it will only clog if you make the mistake of leaving it open. That means you can use it again and again, although the incredibly small container size is certainly more suitable for single-use jobs.
    It’s not a bottle as such and is more like a tube of single-use glue, and the downside of that is that it can be a job to get every drop of gel out. You may need to practice your squeezing grip! However, the ease of application is the big selling point of this ultra-clear gel, and even beginners will have few problems when it comes to making their car repairs.
    A Firm Favorite
    This may not be the strongest glue on the market, but when it’s this easy to make repairs, it’s certainly deserving of its place in this list. Put simply, this is the type of glue that once you use it, it will be very likely to be a regular feature of your shopping basket.

    Fast to dry
    The firmer gel is less messy than liquid glues
    Won’t dry out
    Single-use tubes
    Easy to control

    Small container
    Hard to get the last drops out
    Not the toughest glue

    3. Best All-Rounder: Gorilla Clear Glue

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    Why we like it: Very durable glue designed for indoor and outdoor use that makes it ideal for car repairs.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts
    Type: Liquid
    Quantity: Available in 1-pack or 2-pack sizes
    Size: 3.75 Fl Oz
    Color: Transparent
    Gorilla Quality
    One of the biggest names in glue, Gorilla has a great reputation and a global brand. This clear glue is one of the toughest you can buy, and it’s particularly well suited to car repairs and maintenance because it’s designed specifically for indoor and outdoor use.
    However, although it is sold as water-resistant, it’s not fully waterproof, like the Loctite Clear Silicone Waterproof Sealant. So if you live in areas with high levels of rainfall, such as Seattle, Washington, or New York, then you should be wary of using this too much.
    The Price Issue
    On the plus side, this glue is great for car repairs, especially if you sand or roughen where you plan on joining your two pieces of material. Of course, price is an issue here, and Gorilla Clear Glue is one of the more expensive adhesives on this list, especially when you factor in how much you need to use for each job. That’s because you tend to need a lot more liquid with Gorilla glues, and this one is no exception.
    If you don’t use enough, then the edges will dry, and you will assume that the bond is sealed together when it isn’t. Unfortunately, using too little of this glue will leave you having to clean it and start again because you will always need more than you think.
    Drying Time
    You’ll have to let this glue sit for longer than other glues, sometimes for up to 48hours. This is a good, high-quality glue that can be ideal for car repairs, but the cost and the value for money make it less appealing than many of the alternatives.

    Great for hot and cold states
    Incredibly reliable when used correctly
    One of the toughest glues on sale

    You have to use a lot
    May not stand up to high levels of rainfall
    Takes a long time to set

    4. Best for Seams: Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement Glue

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    Why we like it: A runny glue that’s perfect for using along seams or for reinforcing large joins.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts
    Type: Liquid
    Quantity: 1
    Size: 40ml
    Color: Transparent
    Extra-Thin but Ultra-Strong
    This is the best glue you can buy if you’re looking at long seams that need reinforcing on your car. It’s incredibly easy to use, thanks to its pointed applicator tip, which gives you maximum control over exactly where you want your glue to go. If you do make a mistake, this is an ultra-thin glue, so it’s not going to be a lot of hard work to clean off and start over.
    Don’t make the mistake of thinking that because this is classed as ultra-thin that it won’t be up to the task of car repair. Not only will this glue remove paint, which will make it easier to bond two plastics together, it will also flow easily into any cracks and grooves that you need it to.
    The Benefits of Being Extra-Thin
    The fluidity of this glue means it’s ideal for getting into seams and small spots. It runs more like a liquid than most of the other glues on this list, but it will make your joins very tough. It’s also very easy to apply, and the level of control that you get with the applicator tip makes it one of the easiest glues on sale for beginners, especially when mistakes can be rectified with very little work.
    It does have a very strong odor, so you’re going to want to use it only in a well-ventilated space if you don’t want to live with the glue smell for several hours after use.
    Perfect for Reinforcement
    While this isn’t a glue for big jobs and large parts, it’s ideally designed to reinforce those bigger jobs and could be the deciding factor when it comes to keeping your car in one piece. Unfortunately, it is almost too clear, which can make it very challenging to visually check that you have applied it to the right place. If you’d prefer something that’s easily visible, the J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder comes in black.

    Incredibly easy to apply
    Perfect for small repairs and reinforcing other repairs
    Easy to fix gluing mistakes

    Not strong enough for big jobs
    Can be hard to see
    Strong smell

    5. Best Budget Plastic Glue for Cars: Scotch Super Glue Liquid

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    Why we like it: The single-use, small bottles mean less waste, it’s easy to apply, and it doesn’t ooze after using it. Our favorite choice for small repairs.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts
    Type: Liquid
    Quantity: 4
    Size: .07 Fl Oz
    Color: Transparent
    No-Run Perfection
    Scotch Super Glue is tough, durable, and versatile, and it’s also one of the least messy glues on the market. This small .07 oz bottle comes with a precision control applicator, and that means it’s incredibly easy to put your glue exactly where it has to go. This Scotch glue also comes with a no-run formula, although this isn’t always as effective as advertised.
    The good news is that the applicator alone is brilliant enough to justify its inclusion on this list, and the precision and control that you get is second to none. Most other glues will always ‘ooze’ a little more than you need unless you are experienced, but you don’t get that here.
    No Drying Out
    It’s not just the applicator that’s good either, because the bottle is also designed to specifically prevent the glue in the container from drying out. Like the Henkel-Loctite Super Glue, this glue comes in single-use tubes, but you aren’t limited to that single-use because you can always put the cap back on the container and store it.
    You get four in a package, so you can even have one in your garage, one in your car, and have two spares for other emergencies. So while the tubes are small, they have more than enough glue needed for quick and long-term repairs.
    Incredible Value
    This is the glue to look at if you’re only planning to make small repairs on your car, simply because larger jobs are going to need a lot more glue to get the job done. If you’re looking to get some larger repair work done, you may wish to check out the E6000 230022 Adhesive, which comes in a much larger size.
    Still, when it’s this easy to use, Scotch Super Glue Liquid in this small container is exceptional value.

    Unique precision control applicator
    Incredibly easy to use
    Less waste
    Strong glue
    Excellent value for money

    Not a lot of glue in the container
    The no-run formula can’t be relied on

    6. Best for Big Jobs: J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder

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    Why we like it: For really big joins, this hard-drying adhesive does the jobs that other glues simply can’t match.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts
    Type: Gel
    Quantity: 2
    Size: 0.85 Fl Oz
    Color: Black
    Hardy and Permanent Adhesive
    This isn’t technically a glue and is classed as an ‘adhesive system,’ but it’s particularly well suited to car repairs. It’s fantastic when it comes to bonding carbon fiber composites, thermoplastics, and many different types of coated materials. This is a big leap from traditional glues, but that’s what makes it stand out.
    You mix it so that it can be more easily shaped, and it will fill out even the oddest of spaces. It also won’t drip or run as it dries, which always means less risk of things going wrong.
    Tricky to Prepare
    This is certainly more complicated to use than a basic tube of glue, but it sets incredibly quickly at just 15-minutes and once set, it’s a solid mass. It dries exceptionally hard, so it’s not going to be suitable for every repair job on your car. Often, you need a little flexibility and give, and this just won’t do that.
    Instead, what you’ll get is a solid and incredibly strong bond, and that makes it perfect for filling out any dents on your bodywork, fixing bumpers in place, and repairing any interior or exterior plastic parts of your vehicle.
    This is the bonding agent you need if you want to make sure that any repairs that you make will last as long (if not longer) than the car itself. Classed as a permanent bond, once this is in place, you’ll never have to worry about it again unless you’ve made a mistake. It will dry black though, so you may need to paint over it if your vehicle is a different color and your repairs are going to be visible.

    Extremely durable
    One of the toughest adhesives available
    Will last as long as your car
    Very quick to set

    It dries hard
    Mistakes are hard work to rectify
    Takes skill to use

    7. Best for Fabrics: 3M Super 77 Multipurpose Spray

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    Why we like it: Quick and easy to use without the problem of it soaking into the material, meaning less waste and more bonding.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts
    Type: Spray
    Quantity: 1
    Size: 16.75 Fl Oz
    Color: Black
    Joining Different Materials
    This is a spray-on glue, so it’s very different from others on this list. It’s designed more for lightweight jobs, but when it comes to applying the fabrics in your car, it’s hard to beat. Whether you’re joining fabrics to other fabrics or to plastics or metals, this is the glue for you.
    Unfortunately, if you’re trying to bond larger surfaces, then this won’t be your best option. In most cases, those larger surfaces will bond, but there is a very common issue with spray-on glues: if you use too much, then you’re going to end up with a weak joint, and that’s going to affect the safety of your car.
    Struggles in Hot Weather
    This spray-on glue is also prone to being vulnerable to hotter climates, so if you live and drive somewhere hot, then this is probably one to avoid. For those in more temperate states, this glue might be one of the best available. There’s no soaking-in, so you won’t lose too much of the glue to the materials, and it’s very uniform in its application.
    Potentially Very Messy
    Of course, because it’s a spray glue, you’re going to need to get some practice in, because it’s very easy to make a mess. When you start spraying glue, it can go where you don’t want it to go, and it can take a long time to clean up the mess that you make. Always put some tarpaulin down before you start spraying!
    As you’d expect, this glue does have a strong odor, but it’s not one that lingers. More suitable for fabrics but still above average for smaller plastic repair jobs, this is a glue that has a very defined (and limited) value to the majority of car repairers.

    Good for lightweight jobs
    Ideal for gluing fabrics
    No soaking-in

    Not great in high temperatures
    Hard and messy to use
    Not brilliant with plastic-to-plastic bonds

    8. Best for Extreme Environments: Loctite Stik n’ Seal Extreme Conditions Adhesive

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    Why we like it: One of the most resilient glues on the list, the bottle and liquid are both designed to be used in extreme environments.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts
    Type: Gel
    Quantity: Available in 1-pack or 6-pack sizes
    Size: 0.58 Fl Oz
    Color: Transparent
    Fantastically Durable
    From warped plastic panels on your bodywork to fixing broken side mirrors, this is one of the best, most practical, and brilliant all-round glues for car repairs. This glue from Loctite has been designed to be used in extreme temperatures, and the result is a glue that can be used anywhere and is almost guaranteed to keep what you want where you want it. It’s brilliant in the extreme temperatures of Vegas and LA, but it’s also incredibly resilient in colder, wetter climates.
    This is the glue that motorists use when they’ve tried other, less durable options, and it’s the one you’ll keep coming back to if you try it just once.
    Appalling Packaging
    The problem is the packaging and the container. The packaging is needlessly difficult to open, while the applicator is incredibly imprecise. Considering the price of this glue, it should have a much easier to use application system, but the fact is that this is a very messy glue to try and use. That might seem like a minor nitpick, but you may need to get used to cleaning up glue messes until you’ve become a little more experienced with handling this troubling design.
    Drying Time
    Loctite Stik N’ Seal will create a permanent bond, but you will have to let it rest in place for drying. If you live somewhere humid, try to leave it for 48 hours, although generally 24-hours is more than enough. Often, it’s a good idea to use some tape to hold your pieces in place while this glue dries and bonds.
    Whether you’re reattaching parts of your exterior or resealing your back windows, this is the glue that will do the job, as long as you are prepared for the potential mess.

    A permanent glue designed for extreme conditions
    You can use it almost anywhere on your car
    Perfect for big and small jobs
    No strong odor

    Very messy
    Hard to open
    Long dry time

    9. Best for Clear Dries: Loctite Clear Silicone Waterproof Sealant

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    Why we like it: One of the most practical clear glues you can buy, and it can be used for multiple types of repair jobs.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts
    Type: Gel
    Quantity: 1
    Size: 2.7 Fl Oz
    Color: Transparent
    Amazing Glue, Flawed Packaging
    This is one of the glues where the glue itself is almost flawless, but the packaging and container let it down. Ideally, this glue would be much higher up the list, simply because it’s so good at what it’s supposed to do. It’s very easy to apply, and it doesn’t have the problem of being overly odorous. It will dry quickly, and it won’t peel either.
    Loctite recommends waiting up to 48-hours for the drying time, which might feel a little excessive, but that wait time is worth it. The result that you end up with will be as tough, waterproof, and as flexible as it comes. It dries clear too, so you won’t have to worry too much about the look of your car if you’re making exterior repairs.
    The Problem with Mess
    As soon as you try to open this otherwise excellent glue, you’re going to spot the problems. The cap will often split when you try to open it, and even if you can avoid that problem then it still might split when you finish with your glue and put the cap back on.
    Tightening it by even a minor amount will result in a split cap. Of course, with a split cap, the glue that you have left in the container will be quick to dry, wasting your money.
    It’s not just the cap that’s a problem either. The tube itself is very thick, which makes squeezing it a bit of an effort, and if you squeeze too hard, then you risk the tube cracking. That’s going to mean glue everywhere and a lot of waste.

    One of the strongest glues on this list
    No strong odor
    Dries clear
    Very flexible

    Easy to break the cap when opening
    The threat of splitting the tube

    10. Most Beginner Friendly Glue: Amazing GOOP 160012 Automotive Adhesive

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    Why we like it: A very tough glue that is very easy for beginners to use and will stay in place as it dries.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts
    Type: Gel
    Quantity: 1
    Size: 3.7 Fl Oz
    Color: Transparent
    Hugely Popular
    This is a solid little glue that will do a lot more than you might expect. It’s designed to remain durable in temperatures from -40°F and 150°F, so it might not be any use for engine repairs, but it’s more than up for the task of other car fixes.
    One of the reasons why this is such a popular glue option is because it has very little slip and slide when you’re placing two materials together. All you have to do is keep your pieces in place for a few seconds, and the bonding process begins. It won’t even stick your fingers together either! The low cost is just the icing on the cake.
    Read the Instructions
    Although the glue itself is great, its effectiveness will dramatically reduce if you don’t follow the instructions to the letter. It’s not great with metal, so if you’re trying to attach plastic to metal parts then your bond isn’t going to be as tough as you might hope. The major problem with GOOP is that it evaporates very quickly, so you need to make sure that you leave the lid on the container as much as possible.
    The other issue is that, because it is such a thin liquid, it spreads very quickly, and you may end up having to apply more than one coat if you’re joining large surfaces. However, it goes on easily (sometimes too easily), and it is very user friendly once you get used to the runniness.
    Potent odor
    This is one strong-smelling glue, and you absolutely must use it in only a well-ventilated workspace. Preferably, leave your glued pieces outside while they dry, because the fumes from this glue are both very strong and toxic. You will get a headache if you try to use it in a small, enclosed space.

    Excellent glue

    Toxic fumes
    Easy to spill
    Quick evaporation

    Guide to Buying the Right Plastic Glue for Car Repairs

    The best glue for your car repairs will always depend on your level of experience and the job that you hope to do. Some products, such as the J-B Weld Filler Syringe, will require some prep work that can be confusing if you’ve never used it before. Alternative options like the Henkel-Loctite Ultra Gel are incredibly easy to apply, making these options perfect for first-timers or for those that just want quick and easy fixes.
    Picking the Best Plastic Glue
    Of course, not every glue is going to be suitable for every purpose. Keep reading for some handy tips on how to choose the right glue for your specific situation.
    Think About the Job
    If you want to stick two pieces of your car together, then you’re going to want something that’s going to stick. There are a lot of different types of plastic in your car, so you need to make sure that your glue will bond between the specific materials that you’re joining. For example, if you want to join carpet and fabric to plastic, then 3M Super 77 Multipurpose Permanent Spray will be the preferred choice.
    The bigger the job, the more glue you’ll need. For large jobs, you’ll want to avoid the single-use tubes that might contain excellent glue but will not be very cost-effective. Striking the right balance between the amount of glue that you need and the types of materials you are joining together is critical.
    Setting Time
    Lots of glues call themselves ‘fast set,’ but for very small jobs, that’s not going to be too much of a factor. Be wary though of paying too much attention to fast-dry claims when it comes to glues for car repairs. Making repairs on a car isn’t the same as breaking a child’s toy or your glasses.
    Cars suffer from a lot of wear and tear, and you need to give your glue time to bond properly. Even if a glue says that it bonds in seconds or minutes, always leave it for at least 24 hours. There are ways to make your glue dry faster if you’re in a rush, but as a general rule of thumb, it’s always better to let the glue do its job.
    Temperature and Weather
    It makes sense that you want your car glue to be resistant to water, especially if you’re making repairs where that glue is going to be exposed to the elements. You also need to factor in the heat of your usual driving environment. Drivers in North Dakota will need to think more about the glue’s resilience to cold, while drivers in Florida will have to make sure that their glue is resistant to heat and sunlight.
    Tips for Gluing Car Plastics

    Before carrying out any repair jobs on your car with glue, you need to get things right. It’s very easy to make a mistake when it comes to gluing, and although some extra-thin glues will make mistakes easy to rectify, thicker glues can be a mess. So you need to make sure that you do things right the first time. That will mean:
    Prepping the surface: Wash down your surfaces with soapy water or a specialized plastic cleaner. Alternatively, you can use isopropyl alcohol to make sure that your surfaces are as clear of dirt and other particles as possible. Then, make sure the surface is dry, and keep your hands away from the surfaces that you’re gluing as you will leave oil residue from your hands that will weaken the glue bond.
    Use sandpaper: Glue sticks better if the surfaces are not smooth, so it’s worth taking a few minutes to do some light sandpapering of where your glue is going to go. You don’t need to go overboard because you just want a light roughness to the surfaces. If you don’t have any sandpaper to hand, then some steel wool will do the job just as well.
    Clamping: Even if a glue claims to be quick-drying, that doesn’t mean your car will be ready to drive a few minutes after you’ve glued two parts of it together! You will want to keep those pieces together and immobile for as long as possible, with 24 hours generally being the minimum. Secure your bonded parts together using some form of clamp or use tape/elastic bands to make sure that your pieces don’t slip out of place.
    Cleaning up: Once you have finished gluing everything that you need to glue, it’s time to clean the bottle and the cap. Use denatured alcohol or isopropyl alcohol to remove excess glue or any spillages on your work surfaces. Then, reseal your glue tightly and keep it somewhere dry. Many people swear by keeping their glue in the fridge, while others will recommend using a sealed mason jar with some dried rice inside to absorb any moisture.
    Final Thoughts
    When it comes to saving money on car repairs, there’s nothing quite like doing those repairs yourself. When even big jobs can be completed by using glue rather than by welding or using heavy equipment, it’s always worth looking a little closer at your options.
    Don’t waste cash on expensive mechanics when you could already have all of the skills you need to start gluing your car back together again. More

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    The 10 Best Motorcycle Seat Cushions to Buy 2020

    Years of hard miles on the open road can take their toll on both your motorcycle seat and your body, there’s no shame in that. Due to the fact that it’s becoming increasingly more fashionable to ride bikes with minimally padded seats (cough, cough, cafe racers) as well as unique, fashionable bikes like hardtails and vintage scramblers, life hasn’t been as bad to the posteriors of motorcyclists since before the days of suspension.
    But amidst the trend of form over fashion, there’s still hope. Never in the history of motorcycling have there been so many products, materials, and technologies meant to make riding comfortable readily available on the market. With a nice seat cushion, the pains of the road will melt away.

    Features to Consider in a Motorcycle Seat Cushion
    Seat cushions typically accomplish one goal: help you get more comfortable on the motorcycle. Keep in mind that some are more effective than others, and that different seat cushions come with different levels of quality. Consider the following aspects when looking for a cushion that works with your body.
    Padding Material
    More than anything else, it’s important to find a cushion with the right padding material. A lot of this comes down to personal preference, but there are a few general trends when it comes to the pros and cons of each type.
    Memory Foam: Memory foam is a classic for all products meant to be comfortable. It’s arguably one of the best options due to its postural benefits, and it’s come down in price in recent years, but some motorcyclists find it too soft for their personal preference.
    Inflatable: Some seat cushions inflate with air or even water, meaning you can adjust the firmness and deflate it for storage. The only issue, though, is that they need to be reinflated over time. Seat cushions that can be filled with water can help with temperature regulation, although they’re a bit more inconvenient.
    Natural Materials: Wool, down, leather, and even wood can be incorporated into seat cushions. Natural materials aren’t not the most comfortable or affordable options, but they’re typically fashionable and long-lasting.
    Beading: The classic seat cover for RV and truck drivers across the nation is now available for motorcyclists as well. It’s cheap, great at regulating temperature, but a little slippery. Our favorite? This cover from Regway, a beaded cushion made from real wood.
    Gel: Gel padding is the most expensive option for a seat cushion. Although it’s very comfortable, they’re not supportive enough to be ergonomically safe on long rides, so we haven’t included any gel cushions on our list.
    Cover Material
    It’s hard to create a rule to classify cover materials, as different grades of nylons, plastics, and leathers all can change based on price and quality. High-grade nylon is more durable and more waterproof than leather, but leather is typically perceived as a higher grade material. Watch out for not just the material, but its quality as well.
    Seat Compatibility
    When shopping for a seat cushion, you’ve obviously got to pick a product that will fit your seat. We’d stay away from seat cushions that claim to be universal, as one-size-fits-all really is more likely to yield a fit that doesn’t really work that well on any single seat.
    Extra Features
    Along with the most prominent features buyers look for, some little details can make or break a motorcycle seat cushion or cover. Think about the features below before taking out your wallet.
    Quality Fasteners: Buckles are better than Velcro, metal is better than plastic, and a product with a warranty is better than a product without one.
    Waterproofing: Sheepskin and cloth seat protectors might be fashionable, but you’re all but guaranteed a wet butt if you head out in the rain. Look for something that’s sufficiently grippy but that still repels water.
    Security: A pad that slides around isn’t just annoying, it can be dangerous. Invest in a pad with a proper fit and fasteners that keep the product correctly in place.
    You probably have some idea of what you’re looking for, whether it’s an ergonomic gel seat cushion or a sheepskin you throw over the back of your bike. Check out a list of our top 10 favorite options below.

    Top 10 Best Motorcycle Seat Cushions 2020
    1. Best Overall Motorcycle Seat Cushion: MadDog GearComfort Ride Seat Protector

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    Why we like it: This all-purpose cover isn’t just for cushioning, it also protects the seat itself and comes with a year-long warranty that’s rare for the category.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Padding Material: Soft-Molded Foam
    Cover Material: Nylon
    Seat Style: ADV, Motocross, Dual-Sport, any longer seats
    Extra Features: Reticulated construction
    While this seat was originally designed and advertised towards ATV riders, long-haul motorcycle riders quickly co-opted the product for its durability, adaptable fit, and comfort. While it’s a bit lighter in terms of padding, it provides just the right amount of cushion to add a bit of comfort without feeling like it obstructs movement or reduces the ability to maneuver the motorcycle. It’s also got a full, year-long warranty that takes care of any damage or deterioration up until day 365 of ownership.
    With more aggressive riding comes a greater need for a secure fit, and this cover has three sturdy, adjustable quick-release buckles that keep the pad locked in place during use.
    Instead of a single pad, this motorcycle seat cushion is made of 22 articulated smaller padded sections, making fit much more versatile than with the typical motorcycle seat cushion. This means it will work for any long narrow seat, such as those seen on Dual-Sport bikes, ADVs, and motocross bikes, but it won’t fit cruiser seats, so check out the Air Motorcycle Pressure Relief Pad if this won’t meet your needs.

    Versatile fit thanks to 22 small articulated padded, soft-molded foam sections
    Full-year warranty for any issues
    Light padding makes it feel less bulky and more maneuverable
    Works for any number of longer, narrower seats

    Won’t fit cruiser seats
    Needs to fit perfectly to be ridden aggressively

    2. Best Seat Cushion for Cruisers: Air Motorcycle Pressure Relief Pad

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: This cruiser-oriented seat cushion has a cushion for airflow and a bulky construction for maximum comfort.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Padding Material: Inflatable
    Cover Material: Mesh
    Seat Style: Cruiser, Touring
    Extra Features: Fill Valve
    Meant for cruisers and touring bikes, this 15 by 15-inch seat cushion is shock-absorbing and designed with a breathable cover to keep airflow going and reduce discomfort over long rides. It’s a pretty extreme option, though, and while it’s sure to make you much more comfortable on the motorcycle, it’s not a small cushion like the MadDog GearComfort Ride Seat Protector and thus might feel strange or bulky to riders used to harder, narrower seats.
    The seat cushion, although it’s all contained under a single mesh cover, is composed of 12 self-contained air chambers. These allow the cushion to articulate around the seat and relieves pressure via the channels in between the air bladders and are great from an ergonomic and postural perspective, conforming to the curves of the body, adding support where necessary and giving way where pressure points, bones, and joints conventionally cause numbness and pain.

    Inflatable seat cushion works well with cruiser and touring bikes
    12 articulated air chambers contained by a mesh cover
    Adds support where necessary while not being too bulky
    Channels help relieve pressure against the undercarriage

    May feel strange to riders used to harder and narrower seats
    Bulky construction is an extreme solution

    3. Best Premium Motorcycle Seat Cushion: Airhawk R-Revb Cruiser R Large Motorcycle Seat Cushion

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: This inflatable pad is cool, ergonomically designed, and adjustable on the fly.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Padding Material: Inflatable
    Cover Material: Mesh Cloth
    Seat Style: Cruisers
    Extra Features: Adjustable Air Valve
    Although expensive, Airhawk is one of the biggest manufacturers in this space, utilizing pressure-relieving support, 3D imaging, and high-end materials to help improve airflow and reduce pressure on the body while sitting down. While the air chambers are made of polyurethane and do a great job of holding in air, the top cover is made of three layers of mesh to keep the pad cool–which means that this cushion is unfortunately not waterproof, so if you’ll be out in the rain often something like the Aquacapsule Pressure Relief Air Motorcycle Seat Pad might be a worthy alternative.
    A single pressure-relieving cutout runs down the length of the seat and elevates the tailbone away from the seat, permitting both air and blood flow to the undercarriage, directly combatting the numbness that some motorcyclists often experience. Our favorite feature, though, is an easy to operate air valve that can be adjusted on the fly to reduce the air pressure in the cushion as necessary, although it shouldn’t be attempted while moving. Make sure to pull over to make any adjustments.

    Incorporates an easy-to-operate air valve
    Firmness can be quickly and accurately adjusted on the fly
    Top cover is made of three layers of cooling, structural mesh
    Helps both air and blood flow

    The mesh cover material isn’t waterproof
    Shouldn’t be deflated while moving

    4. Best Waterproof Motorcycle Seat Cushion: Aquacapsule Pressure Relief Air Motorcycle Seat Pad

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: This waterproof ergonomic seat cover is phenomenal for those looking for pressure relief, and can also be filled with water to maximize comfort and heat distribution.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Padding Material: Inflatable
    Cover Material: Lycra
    Seat Style: Cruiser/Touring Saddles
    Extra Features: Air and Water Inflatable
    This inexpensive seat cushion from Aquacapsule is specifically designed for pressure relief, advertising a 30% improvement over typical stock cruiser and touring saddles, which is not only impressive but also can help you avoid issues with your undercarriage. It can be filled up with either air or water, with air maximizing ease of use and portability, and water maximizing comfort and distribution of heat. The bottom of the cushion has a non-slip material, the cushion itself is waterproof, and uses two straps with buckles to hook to your motorcycle seat.
    The cushion is also incredibly economical, at about half the price of premium options like the Airhawk R-Revb Cruiser Seat Cushion. While that’s great, it does give us some pause when thinking about the quality and longevity of the individual inflatable chambers, especially when filling them with water.

    Inexpensive seat cushion designed to relieve pressure
    Bottom of the cushion has a non-slip material to prevent cushion movement
    Can be filled with both air and water
    Much less expensive than premium options

    Air pockets aren’t of the highest quality
    Some concerns with water leakage

    5. Best Budget Motorcycle Seat Cushion: KKmoon Motorcycle Seat Cover

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: A mesh construction and a construction more fit for sport bikes than for cruisers means that this isn’t just one of those typical seat cushions for Harley-Davidson riders.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Padding Material: Layered Mesh
    Cover Material: Mesh
    Seat Style: Sport, ADV, and Pillion Seats
    Extra Features: Water Drainage, Anti-slip coating
    In a category of products that are primarily dedicated towards cruiser riders and cruiser seats, this particular seat cover is comfortable, stable, and can fit all kinds of non-traditional motorcycles—the only type of seat it doesn’t fit, in fact, is a typical cruiser seat. So really, if you’ve got a sport bike, and ADV bike, or really any bike with a narrower seat, this is one of the best options available. While the mesh material that both covers and pads the seat isn’t technically waterproof, it is at least quick-drying thanks to a matrix of holes that help with drainage.
    It’s one of the most effective covers at redistributing heat, with the mesh structure doing an incredible job at preventing the large rises in heat that happen to motorcycles when left in the sun on long summer days. The structure is composed of two separate layers of mesh that not only reflect heat away, but also provide good airflow and vibration absorption that’s just about best in class. Also helping with ease of use and security during operation is the non-slip coating underneath which helps the cushion stay firmly planted.

    Quick-drying seat cushion meant for narrow motorcycle seats
    Mesh material is effective at redistributing heat
    Two separate layers of mesh provide vibration absorption
    Non-slip material keeps cushion firmly planted on the seat

    Doesn’t fit cruiser seats
    Construction with drainage holes isn’t waterproof

    6. Best Ergonomic Motocycle Seat Cushion: Wehope Seat Air Cushion Pad for Cruiser Motorcycles

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: This triangular inflatable cushion helps relieve pressure on the sit bones while tilting the pelvis forward, adjusting the entire body to make riding more comfortable.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Padding Material: Inflatable
    Cover Material: Mesh
    Seat Style: Cruiser
    Extra Features: Fill Valve
    Straddling the line between narrow (the MadDog GearComfort Ride Seat Protector) and cushy (the Air Motorcycle Pressure Relief Pad), the Wehope Seat Air Cushion is wide at the back to support the sit bones, but narrower at the front to push the hips forward for a more ergonomic seated position.
    Because of this design, it doesn’t just cushion but actually adjusts the rider’s posture on the bike. 11 by 11 inches is smaller than average as far as footprint goes, but that’s no issue on cruiser saddles as they’re generally a bit smaller anyways. If you’re looking for something that can pad out a longer saddle (like the ones you’ll see on tourers, scramblers, and cafe racers), check out the KKmoon Motorcycle Seat Cover).

    Design actually adjusts the rider’s posture on the motorcycle
    Straddles the line between narrow and cushy in a seat pad
    Wider at the back to support sit bones
    Narrow at the front to push posture forward

    Narrower than other seat cushions
    Smaller footprint won’t work on longer, narrow saddles

    7. Best Motorcycle Cushion for Small Seats: Airhawk Dual Sport Motorcycle Air Cushion

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: A compact seat cushion isn’t just nice for portability and getting the best fit on small bikes, but it feels light and non-bulky while riding longer distances.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Padding Material: Inflatable
    Cover Material: Polyurethane Mesh
    Seat Style: Smaller Seats/Pillion Seats
    Extra Features: Washable Zip Cover, Air Valve
    Similar to its larger brother, the Airhawk R-Revb Cruiser Seat Cushion, this cushion from Airhawk is a bit smaller in form than most, but equally as comfortable. With a quick-access air valve that lets you adjust air pressure on the fly, the inflatable pad is covered in a polyurethane cover that is both breathable and washable. All of this comes in a form factor that can crush down to fit in a saddlebag or a backpack.
    In fact, it’s small enough that it can be used as a pillion seat cushion as well, although the shape means that it might sit slightly awkwardly and be a bit harder to attach if you’re setting it up as a secondary seat pad. That’s thanks to its small size, which fits on everything from the thickest, widest cruiser seats to smaller and narrower seats seen on sport bikes and ADV bikes. Watch out for the straps, though, as the elastic material and plastic buckles feel flimsy, especially when stretched around larger seats.

    Small, inflatable cushion scrunches down to a compact size
    Polyurethane mesh cover is both breathable and washable
    Small enough to be used as a pillion seat cushion
    Works on all types of bikes from ADV bikes to cruisers

    Cushion is smaller than most seat cushions
    Plastic buckles and elastic straps feel flimsy

    8. Best Classic Motorcycle Seat Cushion: Alaska Leather Large Sheepskin Buttpad

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: This classic yet comfortable wool seat cushion is the perfect combination between modern tech (buckles) and the miracle of natural materials.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Padding Material: Sheepskin
    Cover Material: Wool
    Seat Style: Cruiser
    Extra Features: Natural Materials, USA-made
    Sheepskins and wool have been popular with motorcyclists ever since the earliest days of motorcycling, and this product pays homage to a different time of motorcycling, where adventurers did whatever they could do to get comfortable over long, rough roads. While the cover itself looks like the sheepskin seat covers of 100 years ago, the bottom attachment system is composed of modern, high-quality straps, hooks, and buckles that keep the cover solidly attached to just about any cruiser seat.
    Some of the issues with authentic wool are some of the same issues that are seen on most natural substances: no waterproofing, a propensity to holding off odors, and a slightly itchy texture. Made of 100% authentic sheepskin, though, be advised that this USA-grown and USA-manufactured product has great quality, and with that, a high price tag.

    Sheepskin cover adds a modern touch to a traditional motorcycle seat cushion material
    Bottom attachment system is well-designed and durable
    USA-manufactured with USA-grown wool

    Prone to hanging on to off smells
    Natural wool is not waterproof
    High price tag

    9. Best Beaded Motorcycle Seat Cushion: Regway Wood Beaded Seat Cushion

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: These wooden, vintage-style seat cushions aren’t just cheap, they also provide phenomenal airflow and come in a two-pack.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Padding Material: Beading
    Cover Material: Wood
    Seat Style: Cruisers
    Extra Features: Pack of Two, Water-Resistant
    A unique type of seat cushion, these small wooden beads are loved by some and hated by others. Although they provide a kind of massaging sensation and maintain good airflow, many riders have complaints that they feel a bit too slippery. They attach via a bungee-cord style hook, which makes them easy to install, but not particularly permanent. At least the attachment system is universal; we also appreciate the fact that the budget-priced cushion comes in a two-pack.
    Admittedly, though, they’re for low-riding cruisers with wide seats. This seat cushion won’t fit sportbikes, adventure-tourers, or even most motorcycles with pillion seats, as it slides around. The wood itself isn’t particularly durable, though, and the wooden beads are prone to breaking. If you ride a lowrider, bobber, chopper, or a cruiser, though, this cover can be very comfortable for you. And for an incredibly economical price, you’ll get phenomenal cooling potential.

    Free-rolling beads are the preferred form factor for some riders
    Provide a massaging sensation during use
    Great cooling potential
    Two-pack of covers comes at an economical price

    Wood beads are prone to breakage
    Won’t fit sport bikes, pillion seats, or adventure tourers
    Wood mat sometimes slides around during use
    Bungee-style hook straps aren’t particularly permanent or durable

    10. Best Seat Cushion for Pillion Passengers: Airhawk Small Pillion Motorcycle Seat Pad

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: This small inflatable pillion seat is a simple, universal cushion for ride-along passengers that need a little added comfort.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Padding Material: Inflatable
    Cover Material: Separated Mesh
    Seat Style: Pillion Seat, Universal
    Extra Features: Non-slip base material
    A common complaint among passengers who ride on the back of a motorcycle is how uncomfortable it can be. The back part of a seat designed for pillion passengers is typically smaller, made of a different material, and less supportive than the primary seat, causing problems for anyone traveling long distances on the back of a bike.
    So what’s to be done? Well, a seat cushion goes a really long way. This 9 by 11-inch pad is small but mighty, with a non-slip base material preventing the inflatable (and thus, adjustable) cushion from sliding around too much. With 12 separate air cells all inflatable and made of durable polyurethane, the pad conforms to the seat. It attaches with loops that create a more sturdy base than many pillion cushions that just set on top of the seat without an attachment method.

    Small pillion cushion is meant for a second passenger
    12 durable air cells made of durable polyurethane
    Pad conforms to the seat, meaning it doesn’t slip around much
    Attaches with loops that create a sturdy base around the seat

    Can’t really be used for a single passenger
    Less comfortable than cushions for primary seats

    Guide to Buying the Best Motorcycle Cushions for 2020
    While some people claim to like the clean look of a motorcycle seat without a cushion, we’re more on the side of ‘stay comfortable.’ Those who frown upon a motorcycle cushion are probably the same type of people who do nothing more than take their cafe racer around the corner to drink an espresso (not that there’s anything wrong with that).
    Those who head out on motorcycles for long trips understand that often, comfort takes priority over fashion. Adventure isn’t about fashion, it’s about adventure, and that means you can’t be held back by a sore butt.
    Benefits of a Motorcycle Cushion
    There’s a great saying about where to spend your money: “Always invest in your bed and your shoes, if you’re not in one, you’re in the other.” Another contact point worth investing in? A motorcycle seat cushion, and it’s not just about comfort.
    More Time on the Bike
    Have you ever been in a group where it feels like you’re stopping at every exit? If you’re comfortable, it means more time on the seat, which means more miles and more adventure. Make sure you’re still taking occasional breaks, a good rule is a break once every couple of hours.
    Postural Health
    A supportive postural seat cushion can help align the entire body, aiding with everything from numb legs to back and wrist pain. It’s surprising how effective a seat cushion, especially one designed with ergonomics in mind like the Wehope Seat Air Cushion Pad for Cruiser Motorcycles can be at relieving pains across the whole body.
    Blood Flow
    Studies have shown that the typical motorcycle seat isn’t just uncomfortable, but it also can restrict blood flow to the undercarriage. Take care of your delicate bits, it’s not worth gambling on medical issues.
    Temperature Regulation
    All motorcyclists have had really hot days on the bike, made worse by wearing the proper personal protective equipment. Along with dressing in wicking clothes and staying hydrated, a seat cushion with proper ventilation and airflow like the Airhawk R-Revb Cruiser R Large Motorcycle Seat Cushion can go a long way towards keeping you cool.
    Posture When Riding

    Motorcycling is a lot harder on the body than rolling along in a minivan, and for some, that’s part of the appeal. Physical therapists and body experts all have opinions and exercises that can be particularly helpful to comfort on the bike and to reduce soreness and pain after the ride.
    Back Posture
    The most important part of motorcycle posture is how you hold your core and your back. Make sure you’re keeping your core still, and engaged, with your shoulders back and upright. This will improve both visibility and comfort. Maintain a slight arch with your back, which will help keep your core stretched and comfortable. Imagine that a string is coming out of the top of your head, helping align and keep your posture neutral.
    Many issues with pain while sitting and with long-term back pain on the motorcycle can be solved after a rider learns how to hold themselves on the motorcycle properly.
    Where to Sit on a Motorcycle Seat
    Also important to pay attention to is exactly where you sit on the motorcycle, with the goal being to keep the bike as balanced as possible. Your weight should be directly above the footpegs, with some weight on your feet and little to no weight on your arms. When you encounter rough terrain or a bump, you should be able to effortlessly shift your weight off of the seat for control.
    There’s a whole science to maximizing performance based on how you sit on your bike. If you’re interested in learning how to get the most out of your motorcycle by how you sit on the motorcycle, check out this article that discusses the best way to sit on your bike for speed, control, and comfort.
    Health Concerns and Motorcycle Seats
    Some research shows that most motorcycle seats can restrict blood flow to the genital area, which can lead to a whole host of health issues, most commonly urinary flow issues, nerve damage, loss of sensation, and erectile dysfunction. Motorcycling is risky enough even without the risk of impotence, so any investment you can make in your health is worth it.
    Along with a motorcycle seat cushion designed to relieve pressure, take frequent breaks, avoid thin seats, and sit with proper posture to avoid any negative health consequences.
    Other Motorcycle Products to Consider
    The world of motorcycle accessories is vast, and for good reason, as many clever products exist to make riding more fun, more comfortable, and safer. Consider picking up some of the following products listed below that will make your motorcycling trip the best one yet.
    Motorcycle Locks: While it’s probably not worth it to lock up your seat cushion, it is a wise investment to invest in chain locks, wheel locks, and frame locks to keep your investment (and prized possession) completely safe.
    Motorcycle Tires: Often overlooked when talking about comfort, tires are left in the wake of suspension and engine performance when talking about both performance and staying comfy. A good tire can make your ride faster and make your bike more bearable during long hauls.
    Motorcycle Goggles: Often, motorcycle goggles are overlooked as a PPE option, but many find them more comfortable and breathable than traditional visors (or even worse, no eye protection at all).
    Motorcycle Glasses: While a pair of sunglasses is better than nothing, you really need a pair of motorcycle-specific glasses for adequate protection and comfort. Best part? A lot of them are less expensive than standard Ray-Bans or Oakleys.
    Check out some of motorcyclists’ most common questions on seat cushions below.
    What’s the Best Material for a Motorcycle Seat Cushion?
    Different riders want different materials when picking out a motorcycle seat cushion, but the most popular type of seat cushions are probably inflatable air-matrix options. Unfortunately, though, that popularity could be due to the fact that air is free. Our favorite material is layered mesh due to the fact that it’s pressure-relieving, cooling, and supportive.
    How Do I Keep My Motorcycle Seat Cool?
    Every motorcyclist knows the feeling: stop at a restaurant, biker bar, or a gas station, and when you come back out your black leather seat is hot enough to fry an egg. There are a couple of ways to combat the phenomenon, some simple (park in the shade) and some expensive (buy a mesh seat cover).
    Our advice? Minimize sun contact when possible, look for mesh-covered, air-filled cushions (this cushion from Wehope has both), and wear long pants that cover your entire leg. Staying cool is about staying smart.
    Do Gel Pads Make Motorcycle Seats More Comfortable?
    Gel pads are pretty phenomenal for comfort, although they have some problems, predominantly support. While they’re nice for your posterior, they don’t do the same job as articulated air chambers or foam in aligning the spine. So yes, they make the seat more comfortable, but we’d recommend foam, mesh, or air for a good balance of comfort and support.
    Wrapping Up
    We’ve really run the gamut of motorcycle cushions, providing you with the expensive, the inexpensive, the sturdy, the natural, the classics, and more. At the end of the day, keep in mind that a seat cushion isn’t just a way to make your ride more comfortable: it can help you with postural and medical issues and even provide some protection from wear and tear against the factory seat. For a price that is typically a small fraction of what your motorcycle itself is worth, it’s well worth the investment. More

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    The 10 Best Motorcycle Trailers to Buy 2020

    While a motorcycle is arguably one of the best ways to experience the country, when you’ve got to transport one from place to place without riding it, things get more complicated. Towing a motorcycle is no small endeavor, but it can be made much easier by using a proper motorcycle trailer.
    The most important thing to consider when purchasing a motorcycle trailer is how you’ll be using it. Are you buying a trailer for a one-time trip? Are you a competitive motocrosser frequently headed to the track? Do you have a heavy cruiser or a lightweight 125cc city bike that can fit on a hitch-mount rack? Carefully consider how often you plan to tow, your type of motorcycle, and your objectives with a trailer before purchasing one.

    Picking the Perfect Trailer
    Even before starting to shop around for your first trailer, there are some vital things you’ve got to take into account related to your towing vehicle and motorcycle. Knowing the following stats will make it a lot easier to narrow down your options:
    Motorcycle Weight: You’re not going to fit your half-ton Harley Super Glide onto a hitch-mounted rack, and you don’t need an enclosed trailer for a 125cc dirtbike from 1997. Remember: pick the right tool for the job
    Motorcycle Dimensions: Rear racks typically have a maximum wheelbase of around 80 inches, and tow-behind trailers are no longer than they have to be. If you’ve got a trike or a chopper, be aware that you have different length requirements than other motorcyclists.
    Towing Capacity: As a general rule, towing capacity is overstated by manufacturers, and make sure you’re adding in the weight of the vehicle itself along with its passengers and cargo. This means that while a crossover might claim 1500 pounds of towing capacity, once fully loaded up, actual towing capacity could be a lot closer to 500 pounds.
    Type of Hitch: Most tow-behind trailers in this category (trailers for consumer vehicles) are designed around a two-inch ball hitch. Hitch mount racks are typically designed for class three receivers, with some class two and class four designs.
    Features to Consider in a Motorcycle Trailer
    The options for a motorcycle trailer are almost as broad as the options for a motorcycle itself. Whether you’re looking for something simple for one-time use on a cross-country move, or you need something to haul your dirt bikes to races every weekend, there are a wide variety of options that can work for you.
    Trailer Format
    Motorcycle trailers come in many different shapes and sizes for different needs, price points, and vehicles. The following types of trailers and racks are the most common types of motorcycle trailers available.
    Fully Enclosed Trailers
    For those inclined to treat their two-wheeled friend like the family, the best option is a fully covered trailer. While larger, heavier, and more expensive than other options, fully-enclosed trailers are much more protective than other options and can resist the rain, snow, dirt, and wind. Another benefit is their storage capacity: with enclosed trailers, there’s plenty of space to put accessories, luggage, panniers, toolboxes, and anything else you need to haul
    Hitch-Mounted Trailers
    Some lightweight motorcycles can be lifted onto a hitch-mounted trailer which slides directly into a trailer hitch. There are a couple of downsides, though, including the fact that they only support a limited amount of weight. These trailers forgo wheels entirely, suspending motorcycles up above the road.
    Front Wheel Toe Brackets
    Front-wheel toe brackets hook to just the front wheel of a motorcycle, virtually converting the motorcycle itself into a trailer. While they’re inexpensive, they leave the motorcycle exposed to the elements and put a significant amount of weight on the rear tire, causing a lot of wear.
    Folding Trailers
    Folding trailers are designed to be folded up and tucked out of the way. By adding the proper hardware, these trailers can be set up to haul motorcycles long distances. They’re both lightweight and reliable, but a bit more expensive.
    Flat-Bed Trailer
    A classic flat-bed style trailer isn’t only versatile in the way that it carries multiple types of cargo, it’s also versatile in that it can be formatted to carry either one or multiple motorcycles. They’re slightly more protective than folding trailers because a solid floor can block rocks from getting kicked up and scratching your motorcycle, but they still don’t protect from the weather.
    While the typical motorcycle trailer only holds one bike, other motorcycle trailer formats can carry two. Larger, fully-enclosed trailers (and sometimes folding trailers) can hold up to four motorcycles, although that’s rare and requires a truck meant for towing bigger loads.
    Weight Limit
    Pay special attention to a trailer’s weight limit depending on what kind of motorcycle you ride. Although some trailers (especially hitch-mounted options) can only hold a few hundred pounds, others can carry multiples of the biggest bikes: even a few Harley Super Sports won’t be an issue for the biggest flatbed or enclosed trailers.
    With all of that in mind, let’s get in to our picks for the best trailers available today, whether you’re planning on daily transportation, a one-time cross country trip, or anything in between.

    Top 10 Best Motorcycle Trailers 2020
    1. Best Overall Motorcycle Trailer: Kendon Go! Series Single Rail Ride-Up Folding Motorcycle Trailer

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: This trailer is easy to load and has a high weight capacity, meaning it’s perfect for those with slightly larger motorcycles who are looking for the best product possible.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Format: Folding Trailer
    Capacity: One
    Weight Limit: 1,000 lbs
    In a world of motorcycle trailers meant for lightweight bikes or requiring modification, this trailer from manufacturer Kendon takes care of everything for you, admittedly at a premium price. However, for those with standard-sized motorcycles that are willing to pay for the best, this trailer is a phenomenal option.
    A full 1,000 pound capacity will take care of just about every stock motorcycle on the road (even a Honda Goldwing weighs in at under 1,000 pounds) except for trikes, which won’t fit on this format of trailer anyways due to their ultra-wide rear ends—something like the Carry-On 5×8 Open Mesh Floor Utility Trailer would be better there.
    It supports all of this weight on a 360-pound platform, lightweight and maneuverable enough to be hauled even by smaller SUVs and minivans (car models like the Toyota Rav4 and Honda CRV have towing capacities of about 1,500 lbs).
    You’ll still want to use some tie-downs to secure the motorcycle in place, but it’s one of the most secure options on the market, and that’s by design. With lots of less-than-stellar options out there, most motorcycle owners with beloved bikes will be more than willing to splurge an extra few hundred dollars to make sure their motorcycle stays perfectly in place.
    What really pushes this trailer to the top of our list is the ease of loading: not only does it fold up after use for easy and compact stowing away, it’s also specially designed to be easy to load. A wide ramp enables you to drive your motorcycle directly up onto the trailer into the chock that holds your bike upright. The ramp is longer, yielding a lower load angle that enables this. Especially with heavier bikes, this feature is incredibly convenient.

    Fantastic ease of loading
    Trailer folds up for compact storage
    Holds motorcycle upright in place
    Full 1000 pound capacity holds even the biggest motorcycles

    Trikes won’t fit on this trailer due to their wide rear axles
    Still requires use of tie-downs

    2. Easiest Motorcycle Trailer to Use: Goplus 600 Pound Motorcycle Carrier with Loading Ramp

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: This simple hitch-mounted trailer is one of the sturdiest axle-less options out there, supporting bikes up to 600 pounds with no issues and incorporating an easy-to-use loading ramp.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Format: Hitch Mount
    Capacity: One
    Weight Limit: 600 lbs
    While most hitch racks only support a few hundred pounds of weight, this model from Goplus is a monster among hitch-mounted trailers, holding up to 600 pounds of brawny bike, beating out even some tow-behind flatbed trailers. While the weight limit is impressive, make sure to use a tie-down strap in addition to the two included quick releases, and to keep your speed under the manufacturer-suggested maximum 55 miles per hour.
    The rack mounts directly into a 2” receiver (no ball mount required as with other trailers), suspended about a foot over the surface of the road. It’s 79 inches long, which will accommodate even the longest wheelbase motorcycles. There’s a vehicle chock welded in the rack tray to help support the bike vertically.
    There’s one drawback, though: the weight limit isn’t a true 600 pounds. As far as holding weight while standing still, this bike can hold up a brawny liter bike all day. However, Goplus (the manufacturer) only provides a static weight limit, meaning when driving down the highway, heading over rough terrain, or accelerating, the weight limit is probably somewhat lower. If you want to be cautious, keep your loads under 450 pounds or upgrade to something with a truer limit like the Yescom 800 lbs Motorcycle Trailer Hitch Hauler.
    Of all the hitch-mount options on our list, this trailer is probably the easiest to load thanks to a wide, stable loading ramp. Sure, you’re still pushing 550 pounds of metal up a relatively steep incline if you’ve got a big bike like a Harley Sportster, but at least a wide track makes the rolling relatively stable. If you’re loading a motorcycle over 300 pounds, it’s probably best to make sure you’ve got a spotter in the immediate area.

    Incredibly stable to load thanks to a wide loading ramp
    79-inch tray size accommodates long-wheelbase motorcycles
    Vehicle chock welded in rack tray for support
    2-inch receiver doesn’t use a ball mount

    Weight limit isn’t truly 600 pounds
    55 MPH maximum speed limit
    Requires spotter for loading

    3. Best Budget Motorcycle Trailer: Yescom 800 lbs Motorcycle Trailer Hitch Hauler

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    Why we like it: A clever and proprietary design solves weight, length, and towing problems by turning the bike itself into an inexpensive trailer that attaches directly to the hitch.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Format: Front Wheel Toe Bracket
    Capacity: One
    Weight Limit: 800 lbs
    This motorcycle trailer is completely different from anything else on the market with a unique design that lifts the front wheel of the motorcycle onto the back of your car, securely towing your bike without any extra wheels or axles. It’s the lightest and most minimal option out there, threading into a two inch hitch receiver and weighing in at just over 30 pounds.
    If you’re planning on using this with a moped, though, you’re out of luck. Since it relies on the rear wheel to roll freely along the road, you need a neutral gear, which mopeds simply don’t have. In that same vein, make sure you put your motorcycle in neutral before using this rack. If not, you could completely burn out your tire.
    Even if you use it properly, you’ll cause undue wear on your tire as it directly comes in contact with the road during trips both short and long. You also leave your motorcycle directly in contact with the elements when using this rack, as you can’t fit a moving motorcycle with a cover and there’s no flatbed trailer below to protect the bikes undercarriage from flying debris. Fortunately, motorcycles are made to hold up to weather and debris, and thousands of miles of use—just make sure you lube your chain afterwards if you happen to hit a rain shower.
    While this rack is based on an incredibly clever idea, there are some problems that come with loading and transporting. Unlike motorcycle trailers with ramp-based loading systems, this rack requires the front end of the bike to be physically lifted onto the trailer, something that is difficult with heavier bikes (think about purchasing a motorcycle scissor lift to help out).
    Another issue that comes with the territory is maximum tire size; this rack doesn’t fit anything bigger than 4 ⅞ inches, different from the owner’s manual which states it holds tires up to 5 ⅞ inches. If your bike has larger tires, check out something like the Black Widow Hitch-Mounted Aluminum Motorcycle Carrier instead, which accommodates a much wider variety of sizes.

    Proprietary, clever design turns your motorcycle into a trailer
    Entire setup only weighs about 30 lbs
    Impressive 800 lbs weight limit

    Doesn’t hold tires larger than 4 ⅞ inches
    Can’t protect your bike from the elements or from road debris
    Requires the bike to be physically lifted up to mount

    4. Best Premium Motorcycle Trailer: Trinity MT3 Three Rail Motorcycle Trailer

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    Why we like it: An expensive but rare three-motorcycle option, this motorcycle trailer is sturdy and specifically designed to be motorcycle-ready out of the box.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Format: Flatbed Trailer
    Capacity: 3
    Weight Limit: 2,000 lbs
    While a hitch-based rack mount is convenient for even mid-weight motorcycles, it has a distinct disadvantage: they can only hold a single motorcycle. This flatbed addresses that issue, providing a fantastic capacity in a sub-500 pound format, hauling 3 separate motorcycles staggered on the single flatbed trailer.
    While most other conventional flatbed trailers require you to install motorcycle mounting chocks yourself, this trailer comes delivered to your door completely ready to go. A 2000-pound weight limit is more than adequate for nearly every combination of motorcycles (unless you’re towing 3 Harley Road Glides), and many drivers will find themselves restricted by the towing capacity over their vehicle over the weight capacity of the trailer itself.
    There are some flaws, however. The bearings, axles, and dust caps come installed but really need some level of service, lubrication, and thread lock (like LocTite) before taking on a long voyage. We wish the manufacturer would take care of the details before delivery, but once it’s good to go, it’s a solid trailer for many thousands of miles. One last note: due to state trailer licensing requirements, be advised that this trailer isn’t available for purchase in the following states: AZ, CA, CO, ID, ME, MT, ND, NH, NV, OR, SD, UT, VT, WA, and WY.
    This trailer is surprisingly compact (and lightweight) for being a 3-motorcycle trailer, and although it’s particularly easy to maneuver, especially for beginners, it has the unfortunate side effect of being difficult to load. Space is simply at a premium in this trailer format, and 5 by 7 feet of space isn’t much. Obviously smaller displacement bikes are easier to load, but bigger bikes are more limited by space than by the trailer’s high weight limit. It’ll do the job, but if you regularly transport multiple bikes you might find the Carry-On 5×8 Open Mesh Floor Utility Trailer easier to use.

    Compact and lightweight three-motorcycle trailer
    Easy to tow for beginners
    High weight capacity will hold all but the heaviest bikes
    Trailer is delivered completely ready to go

    Isn’t available for purchase or delivery in several states
    Bearings and axles need some love before heading out on long trips
    Difficult to load multiple motorcycles

    5. Cotric 600 lbs Black Steel Motorcycle Carrier Mount Dirt Bike Rack

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    Why we like it: This sturdy hitch-mount rack is an inexpensive solution that can hold motorcycles weighing up to 600 pounds, loading with a convenient flip-down ramp.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Format: Hitch-Mounted Trailer
    Capacity: 1
    Weight Limit: 600 lbs
    One of our biggest issues with hitch-mounted trailers? Durability. All the weight relies on a single point to stay upright, not like with axle-based trailers that have wheels to support their weight. But this steel, powder-coated hitch-mounted is one of the most solid hitch-based options, made of a solid steel track coated with an anti-rust paint.
    A 79-inch rail is long enough for even the longest of cruisers, and an adjustable wheel chock means that even shorter and smaller motorcycles can be adequately supported. Your motorcycle is locked in via several quick-release locks that thread through your motorcycle’s wheels and frame, although we’d still recommend a tie-down strap or two just as a fail-safe in case the quick releases wear out or fail.
    Watch out for the fact that the rack is delivered inside of two separate packages that may not arrive at the same time, so if you end up with just half of a rack, wait a few days before panicking. And should you need any help, have confidence that a 100% customer satisfaction guarantee covers any issue you might have, from order placement through installation.
    Although this rack’s loading ramp isn’t as wide or as easy to use as the Goplus 600 Pound Motorcycle Carrier’s loading ramp, it’s still relatively user friendly, especially when compared to trailers that aren’t motorcycle specific and require modification or the extensive use of tie-down straps. All in all, it’s one of the easiest trailers to load, especially with lightweight motorcycles.

    Adjustable wheel chock and strong rail helps support all types of motorcycles
    79-inch rail is long enough for even long-wheelbase motorcycles
    One of the easiest trailers to load
    100% customer satisfaction guarantee

    Still requires a tie-down for security
    Loading ramp isn’t particularly wide or easy-to-use
    Delivered in two separate packages

    6. Black Widow MCC-600 Steel Motorcycle Carrier

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    Why we like it: This premium 600-pound motorcycle carrier is simple to use and fits directly into a trailer hitch, no wheels or axles required.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Format: Hitch Mount
    Capacity: 1
    Weight Limit: 600 lbs
    This ramp-loading hitch-mount rack from Black Widow is one of the most expensive hitch-mount options, with a price justified by a high weight limit and a sturdy build quality. The metal tray fits large bikes with wheels up to 8 inches wide and up to 600 pounds. It’s designed to fit Class Three or 2-inch hitch receivers.
    And while it’s a pretty solid motorcycle hauler, it falls to the same drawbacks as all hitch-mounted racks: namely, a difficult loading process, a less-than-stellar weight limit, and no auxiliary storage. And while it’s rated to 600 pounds, we’d be a bit more cautious: lean light, especially if you’ve got accessories and a full tank of gas.
    Our recommendation would be to keep your total load under 500 pounds if you can, with a bit of wiggle room. That’s not to say that this rack will drop your bike as you roll down the highway, just that the more weight you have, the more likely it is that you’ll break the smaller accessory pieces (hooks, ratchets, and screws).
    So while those looking for something to bring their dirt bike to the motocross track might see a perfect candidate in this rack, Harley riders with big cruisers might think about something a bit more brawny: a flatbed like the Kendon Go! Series Trailer simply suits bigger bikes better.
    Loading bikes, especially hitch-mount variations, is always a bit inconvenient. A small trailer format without a rear axle simply doesn’t lend itself to convenient loading, even if it does have a ramp that allows you to roll the motorcycle directly onto the travel tray. Heavier bikes are more likely to scratch the tray paint and be harder on hardware, so the anti-rust coating and metal hardware is particularly welcome in this case.

    Durable and solid tray holds heavyweight bikes with just a hitch
    Loads with a convenient fold-down ramp
    Metal hardware and anti-rust coating helps protect the tray
    Fits Class Three and 2-inch receivers

    Flatbed ramps are easier to use for loading
    Smaller accessory pieces are slightly more likely to break under a large load
    No auxiliary storage for saddlebags, equipment, or tools

    7. Best Rack for Dirt Bikes: Black Widow Hitch-Mounted Aluminum Motorcycle Carrier

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    Why we like it: This lighter-weight hitch-mounted trailer is particularly economical, although a 400-pound weight limit means that it’s more suitable for dirt bikes than for touring bikes, Harleys, and dual-sport options.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Format: Hitch Mount
    Capacity: One
    Weight Limit: 400 pounds
    This hitch mount trailer is an absolute featherweight at well under 40 pounds with a full aluminum construction, although that means it does sacrifice a bit in terms of weight capacity: the rack tops out at carrying just about 400 pounds. But while other racks claim high capacities and really need a lighter-weight motorcycle to work properly, this rack’s 400 pound limit is totally accurate.
    The welded aluminum rack simply feels solid, mounting into Class Three or Class Four hitch receivers. It’s great for dirt bikes as it accommodates tires up to 5 ½ inches wide, which are typically seen on motorcycles meant for motocross. The loading ramp is wide for easy storage and loading, but has punched holes in the metal, yielding significant weight savings.
    The trailer also comes with an adapter that can hold smaller 50cc to 80cc motorcycles that are commonly meant for children to ride and learn on. It’s a nice feature, especially considering the fact that most trailers have trouble accommodating these ultra-small motorcycles.
    A quite-small 400-pound weight limit yields a rack that feels rather flimsy, but the included ramp is easy to use, especially with lightweight bikes, feeling just as solid, if not more solid than the rack itself. A word of caution, though, that this isn’t compatible with class two hitches, the type of hitch that’s most common for crossovers and lighter vehicles.

    Lightweight hitch mount rack is under 40 pounds installed
    Loading ramp is wide and sturdy for easy loading
    Accommodates larger format tires of up to 5.5 inches
    Includes an adapter for smaller motorcycles

    Not compatible with class two hitches
    Tops out at a 400-pound weight capacity

    8. Best for Trikes: Carry-On 5×8 Open Mesh Floor Utility Trailer

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    Why we like it: While this flatbed trailer isn’t specifically designed for motorcycle use, it’s a phenomenal option that can be adapted into a motorcycle-specific hauler for around $1000.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Format: Flatbed Trailer
    Capacity: Three
    Weight Limit: 1600 lbs
    As a trailer designed to haul farm equipment, UTVs, and ATVs, this trailer isn’t immediately ready for motorcycle use like more expensive trailers such as the Trinity MT3 Three Rail Motorcycle Trailer. But for a couple thousand dollars less, there are plenty of mechanically savvy motorcycle owners that are probably willing to do the job.
    There are a few different approaches to loading this with motorcycles: the most simple, impermanent, and least secure option is using multiple inexpensive tie-downs to both prop the motorcycle up and hold it in place. We wouldn’t recommend this method for use during high speed, long-distance trips, and although it’s cheap, a more permanent option is prudent if you’ll be using this trailer specifically to haul motorcycles.
    While cinching the motorcycle down is still prudent, screw in a permanent wheel chock (this option includes tie-downs) that will maintain your front wheel tightly in place. It’s not only more secure, but it’s safer and more convenient as well. This trailer ends up being a phenomenal option for trikes as well, as the wide trailer fits wide rear axles, and a high weight limit can handle even the brawniest of ¾-ton Harley three-wheelers.
    With a back liftgate that also functions as a roll-up ramp, this is one of the simplest-to-load trailers on our list. There are two things to be aware of, though: firstly, while the frame supports about 1,600 pounds, the metal floor mesh used in this trailer is a little less durable than we’d like. When loading, you should be careful to make sure most of the motorcycle’s weight stays over the frame itself. Secondly, mind the slight gap between the loading ramp and the bed of the trailer itself—the space there is large enough for a thinner tire to get stuck, which can ruin your day (or wheel).

    Customizable flatbed trailer is great for tinkerers
    Mesh floor is lightweight, durable, and easy to work on
    Roll-up ramp means bikes are easy to load
    High weight limit can handle bigger Harleys and trikes

    Watch for the slight gap between the loading ramp and the bed of the trailer
    Mesh floor doesn’t support weight as well as the frame itself

    9. Best Enclosed Motorcycle Trailer: Proline 6×10 Enclosed Trailer

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    Why we like it: This pricey 6 by 10 foot trailer is large enough to hold two motorcycles, although it requires some modifications to become the motorcycle-hauler of your dreams.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Format: Fully Enclosed Trailer
    Capacity: 2
    Weight Limit: 3,500 lbs
    The first thing to know about this trailer is the fact that it’s not a motorcycle-specific trailer. But in some ways, that’s what makes it great. The benefit of this bare-bones platform is the fact that you can set it up to your exact specifications, whether you want just one large, solid berth for a trike or several smaller ones for lightweight, nimble dirt bikes.
    In fact, it’s one of the most adaptable trailers out there, with hardware meant to be customized with different tie-down locations and with a ¾ inch plywood floor that’s practically designed for the easy installation of accessories. Even motorcycle riders that head to the mechanic for an oil change will find trailer modification easy enough to tackle themselves.
    An impressive near-two-ton load limit inspires complete confidence in the platform, while the single-axle design comes complete with 15-inch radial tires that are more than equipped to handle those kinds of loads. It has a lit interior that connects through the vehicle end trailer port, there are also bright brake lights and running lights. A 32-inch side door is convenient for quick access, and there’s plenty of space for storing motorcycle bags, panniers, accessories, and tool boxes.
    With a drop-down ramp, motorcycles can be simply rolled up into the trailer, although the fact that the product doesn’t come specifically equipped with motorcycle-specific brackets means you’ll have to invest some time and effort upfront to make it work for your needs. The ramp is shallow enough that you can ride bikes straight into the trailer, although watch out for the small gap between the loading ramp and the floor of the trailer itself.

    Adaptable trailer is sturdy and easy to load
    Designed for installation and customization
    Drop down ramp allows trailers to be easily loaded
    Bare bones platform lowers price but makes it easy to add your own touches

    Need to add your own motorcycle-specific brackets for compatibility
    Gap between loading ramp and the trailer floor is difficult to navigate

    10. Motogroup Aluminum Double Motorcycle Carrier

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    Why we like it: This is the perfect rack if you don’t want a wheeled trailer and you’re headed to the track with a couple of small capacity dirt bikes, which admittedly isn’t everybody.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance:
    Format: Hitch Mount
    Capacity: Two
    Weight Limit: 600 lbs
    This rack is cool, the only hitch mount solution on the market that can hold more than two motorcycles. Although the weight capacity isn’t stellar, it’s great for someone who’s hauling small bikes around, or even kids bikes around. It could work for mopeds as well, so if you’re a multi-moped owner, this rack could work well.
    Along with a 600-pound weight limit, watch out for the rack length, which is quite a bit smaller than typical at 75 inches. While this isn’t a problem for dirt bikes, some smaller capacity cruiser-style motorcycles can measure a bit longer, meaning they won’t be compatible with this rack. Check your bikes’ spec sheets before buying.
    However, that isn’t our biggest issue with this rack. Our problem, frankly, is the fact that the use case with this towing solution is so specific you might as well just get a real wheeled trailer with a bigger weight limit and much better capacity. Unless every motorcycle you plan to own is under 300 pounds, a better option might be a trailer like the Proline 6×10 Enclosed Trailer.
    Loading multiple bikes, even lightweight ones, is downright tricky no matter how much experience you have or how solid your stand is. And frankly, this stand is not the most sturdy in our lineup with aluminum construction. Both sides of the rack rely on the same ramp, a 45-inch skid that yields a relatively steep load angle. Good thing you can only get light bikes up there, because pushing bikes close to the weight limit up onto the rack is a chore.

    Perfect rack for bringing lightweight bikes around
    Only hitch-mount rack that holds multiple bikes
    A good option for hauling mopeds

    Loading with the steep ramp is a chore
    Use case for the trailer is really specific
    Short rack tray might not work with some lightweight bikes

    Guide to Buying the Best Motorcycle Trailers for 2020
    Purchasing a motorcycle trailer is a big decision, as you’re trusting it to keep one of your most important and expensive possessions safe as you drive down the road. Just as you wouldn’t cut corners on motorcycle parts, accessories, or services, don’t cut corners on your motorcycle trailer either.
    Safety Practices

    It’s important to educate yourself on how to use a motorcycle trailer. The safest and most secure motorcycle hauler isn’t adequate when in the wrong hands. Familiarize yourself with all of the safety features and fail-safes of your trailer before use, or you could end up in a dangerous (and expensive) situation.
    Towing a big load is both more dangerous and more difficult than driving your car without a trailer. With added weight and length, your car handles differently, your braking distance increases, and you have to work to predict traffic and think ahead as you drive down the road. Follow these tips to stay safe while driving.
    Properly Connected Tail Lights
    Almost any motorcycle trailer completely obscures the tail lights on your vehicle, meaning you’ll need a set of lights on the trailer itself to stay both legal and safe. Make a habit to plug your lights into the power outlet next to your trailer hitch every time you hook your trailer up, it’s also a good practice to make sure you regularly check that your trailer brake lights are working properly.
    Emergency Brake
    All trailers are subject to federal safety requirements, key among them legislation to ensure every trailer has a functioning breakaway trailer function. When hooking up your trailer, make sure to attach your emergency breakaway brake wire to the car itself, which will automatically stop the car from moving in case of a catastrophic trailer hitch or trailer failure.
    Maintenance Schedule
    As far as checks, lube, tire pressure, and other routine checks, the more, the better, but it’s easy to get carried away. Although you should definitely check tire pressure, breakaway chains, lights, safety chains, and your hitch every time you drive, follow this maintenance calendar for the best guidance on more long-term routine maintenance.
    Runaway Chains
    While a properly-maintained ball hitch combined with a breakaway emergency brake can prevent about 99% of trailer-related accidents, it’s important to have another layer of security just in case. Make sure your trailer has well-maintained runaway chains that connect to your hauling vehicle at least a quarter-inch thick. Also ensure that your chains are short enough so that they drag on the road below, as chains can wear through even during drives of 30 minutes or less when dragging on the ground below.
    Setting Up a Trailer
    Most flatbed, folding, and framed trailers don’t come set up by themselves for motorcycle hauling, although they’re designed and formatted to be compatible with the accessories needed to safely tow motorcycles like chocks, mounts, and tie downs. Take the following steps to set up a flatbed, folding, or framed trailer.
    Install a Chock: While you can get away without a chock for slow, short distance trips, if you’re going to head out on a longer trip, you need something to hold your motorcycle upright. If it doesn’t come included, buy a chock.
    Install Anchor Points: Tie-downs need solid points to attach to or they’re worthless. If your trailer doesn’t have specific anchor points meant for tie downs, make sure to install the proper brackets or hooks so your straps can be properly attached.
    Safety Checks: Axles, hitches, and wheels are the most common points of failure on a motorcycle trailer. When your trailer is delivered, make sure to perform a basic service on these trailer parts, also make sure you perform periodic services on these key parts so that your equipment is always in good working order. Your owner manual can help you determine the frequency of these check-up services.
    Tire Balancing: New trailer checks are much less rigorous than new vehicle checks, meaning that your trailer might not arrive in the ideal condition to head out on the highway. Most commonly the source of instability at speed is an important step that some manufacturers skip: tire balancing. Tire balancing is inexpensive, usually under $20 per tire, and will provide an immediate impact to how your trailer maneuvers, especially when driving at higher highway speeds.
    Protecting Your Motorcycle

    Unless you have a completely covered trailer, your motorcycles are left exposed to the elements whenever they’re being towed. Take the following steps to make sure your motorcycle arrives at the final destination in perfect condition.
    Use a Cover: A cover is the simplest and least expensive way to protect your motorcycle when hauling it on a trailer over long distances. Make sure that it’s cinched down as tight as possible for maximum fuel efficiency. Alternatively, choose a covered trailer like the Proline 6×10 Enclosed Trailer.
    Drive Slow: Not only are trailers easier to control when driven at slower speeds, they’re also less likely to kick up the gravel and dirt that can damage your motorcycle.
    Check Tie Downs Periodically: Even if you have a direct bracket to mount your motorcycle, you’ll probably still be using at least one tie-down to double-check security. Every couple hours of driving, check your tie-down to make sure it hasn’t loosened.
    What You Need With Your Motorcycle Trailer
    To maximize what you can do with your motorcycle trailer, you need a lot more than just a ball hitch. To protect and care for your bikes on longer trips, consider purchasing the following auxiliary products/accessories to provide proper care and security to your bikes.
    Motorcycle Locks
    While it’s a great practice to get in the habit of using a motorcycle lock every time you pull in the driveway, it’s even more important when traveling. Opportunistic thieves can accomplish rollaway thefts in under one minute, quick enough to nab your expensive bike when you’re in the bathroom at a gas station. Even if you’re using a locked, enclosed trailer, it’s not a bad idea to add an auxiliary lock. You can take a look at a list of our favorite motorcycle locks here.
    Motorcycle Covers
    Predicting weather during interstate travel is notoriously hard to do. If you don’t have an enclosed trailer, your motorcycle ends up enduring whatever conditions you end up driving through. Even in the best weather, your motorcycle is susceptible to damage from rocks and dust kicked up by other vehicles and flying debris. It’s a great idea to place an inexpensive motorcycle cover over your bike to protect your prized possession, so check out this list of motorcycle covers if you’re in the market for one.
    Tie Downs
    Tie-downs are one of the most important aspects of motorcycle hauling, securing your motorcycle in place onto the trailer. A catastrophic tie-down failure can mean disaster for your motorcycle and other road users, so make sure you’re purchasing a tie-down rated for the proper weight limit and verified by a trustworthy cargo certification body like the AAR (American Association of Railroads).
    Motorcycle Lube
    Especially if you’re not using a cover, your motorcycle lube, grease, and wax will gradually get stripped off over long drives in inclement weather. After every trailer trip, check that your bike is adequately lubed and greased. You can see some of our favorite motorcycle lubes here.
    Motorcycle Lifts
    No matter what type of trailer you’re using, a motorcycle lift will make loading much easier. From small format portable scissors jacks that will make loading hitch mount trailers (like this one from Goplus) ridiculously easy, to larger pneumatic lifts that you can store in an enclosed trailer, a motorcycle lift simply makes life easier for motorcycle owners. Check out our article on these ultra-convenient garage lifts.
    Wrapping Up
    Towing a motorcycle is serious business: when you’re hauling you have to take care not only of your prized bike, but also make sure to protect yourself other road users in the process.
    No matter how big your motorcycle is or how far you’re towing, there’s a trailer out there for you. While it might require some modification to become the motorcycle-hauler of your dreams, there are plenty of safe and convenient options to get your two-wheeled friend from point to point. More