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    The 10 Best Car Cabin Air Filters to Buy 2020

    You’ve heard of a car cabin air filter. It’s mentioned every time you stop by your local mechanic for an oil change. But what is it, and why is it so important? You might also be wondering how often you should change it, and how to choose the best cabin air filter for your car. Fortunately, we’ve got you covered. Keep reading to learn more about cabin air filters and see our top picks for 2020.

    How to Choose the Best Car Cabin Air Filter
    Before jumping into our picks for cabin air filters, let’s talk about the different types to choose from and what key factors to consider when buying a new cabin air filter.
    Types of Cabin Air Filters
    You know that it’s the time to invest in a new cabin air filter for your trusty four-door, but how do you know which type of filter is best? While each type of cabin air filter is designed to handle dust and odors, not all do so in the same way.
    Charcoal Cabin Air Filters
    Charcoal cabin air filters catch dust and debris while also absorbing nasty fumes and unpleasant odors. For the best results, charcoal cabin air filters should be changed once per year or every 15,000 miles.
    Activated Carbon Cabin Air Filters
    Activated carbon filters work the same way as charcoal cabin air filters but use activated carbon to absorb airborne contaminants that pass through your vehicle’s ventilation system.
    Particle Cabin Air Filters
    Particle cabin filters trap tiny particles before they enter your car. These filters are ideal for filtering out pollen, dust, smoke, mold spores, and other small particles.
    Electrostatic Cabin Air Filters
    Each layer of an electrostatic cabin air filter is electrostatically charged so that the filter can trap ultra-fine particles, including cigarette smoke, exhaust fumes, mold spores, bacteria, and diesel carbon.
    HEPA Cabin Air Filters
    HEPA stands for High-Efficiency Particulate Air. These filters provide a filtration efficiency rate of 99.7% at 0.3 microns, blocking out allergens like pollen and dust. However, they’re not as good when it comes to filtering out harmful odors.
    Key Features to Look For in a Car Cabin Air Filter
    Much like anything, there are a few key features to look out for when buying a car cabin air filter:
    Compatability
    Each model of car requires a specifically-sized air filter. While a brand may claim to have a universal fit, that’s not necessarily true. Before you commit to buying a cabin air filter, check if it’s compatible with your car.
    Protection
    Cabin air filters are designed to block out dust and dirt particles. Some are also able to take on foul odors. If you’d like a cabin air filter that can protect against even finer particulates and more pungent odors, be sure to buy a filter like the K&N Premium Cabin Air Filter.
    Longevity
    While some cabin air filters need to be changed after one year or 12,000 miles, others can last for even longer.
    Driving Conditions
    Do you live in an urban environment plagued by pollution? Then consider a HEPA-rated filter like the Bosch 6055C HEPA Cabin Air Filter. If you don’t, an air filter like the Spearhead Premium Breathe Easy Cabin Filter may fit the bill better.
    We have sorted through the bestsellers and forever favorites to find the best car cabin air filters of 2020. Check out our top picks below!

    Top 10 Best Car Cabin Air Filters 2020

    1. Best Overall Pick: Spearhead Premium Breathe Easy Cabin Filter

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    Why we like it: The Spearhead Premium Breathe Easy Cabin Filter uses three layers of filtration to protect against dust, allergens, and fumes. It also lasts longer than most other cabin air filters.
    Editor’s Rating:

    The Spearhead Premium Breathe Easy Cabin Filter is an excellent buy if you’re in the market for a reasonably priced cabin air filter that uses activated carbon to protect against dust and odors. Unlike other cabin filters, the Spearhead Premium Breathe Easy Cabin Filter also features honeycombed charcoal weaves engineered to last up to 25% longer than other filters.
    Compatability
    This filter works with a range of vehicles. Whether you’re the proud owner of a Dodge Ram pickup or have a Subaru Forester sitting in your driveway, this cabin air filter will be sure to please.
    Protection
    The Spearhead Premium Breathe Easy Cabin Filter boasts three layers of filtration: one for dust, an antimicrobial filter to block allergens, and an adsorption filter to soak up some foul odors. It’s also densely packed with activated carbon and uses industrial strength electrostatic media to trap even the smallest particles.
    Longevity
    If you want an air filter that will last longer than the standard 12,000 miles, this air filter is an excellent choice because it uses honeycombed charcoal weaves to last up to 15,000 miles.
    Driving Conditions
    If you live in a highly polluted area, this air filter will do just fine. If you’re trying to combat smells, though, this air filter may not be the pick for you. While it does feature a layer specifically designed to soak up odors, it cannot soak up stronger scents like diesel fumes or passing fast food smells.

    Pros

    Uses activated carbon
    Multiple filtration levels
    Lasts 25% longer

    Cons

    Doesn’t offer strong odor protection

    2. Best Budget Pick: EPAuto CP134 Premium Cabin Air Filter

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    Why we like it: If you’re hoping to get the most bang for your buck, look no further than the EPAuto CP134 Premium Cabin Air Filter and its wallet-friendly price tag.
    Editor’s Rating:

    The EPAuto CP134 Premium Cabin Air Filter uses activated carbon to provide cleaner airflow. It’s also straightforward to install and is able to improve HVAC performance.
    Compatability
    This cabin air filter works with nearly every vehicle on the market, making it an easy pick if you’re looking for a cheap cabin air filter.
    Protection
    Using activated carbon, the EPAuto CP134 Premium Cabin Air Filter is able to prevent dust and debris from entering your car’s interior. It’s also able to stop foul odors, though not altogether.
    Longevity
    While the EPAuto CP134 Premium Cabin Air Filter should last a year, you’ll probably have to replace it before then. Fortunately, because it’s priced so low, purchasing more than one in a year isn’t too costly.
    Driving Conditions
    You can expect this cabin air filter to handle most driving conditions. While it’ll undoubtedly provide cleaner airflow, it won’t necessarily stop bad smells altogether.

    Pros

    Low price
    Improves HVAC performance
    Prevents dust and debris in cabin

    Cons

    Won’t stop odors altogether
    May not last a year

    3. Best Premium Pick: K&N Premium Cabin Air Filter

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    Why we like it: The K&N Premium Cabin Air Filter is the best of the best. Though it does cost a pretty penny, it’s well worth the investment.
    Editor’s Rating:

    There’s a reason the K&N Premium Cabin Air Filter is the first on our list. This cabin air filter is designed to protect against just about everything. From dust to mold, this air filter has got you covered. Of course, several other features are worth mentioning when it comes to this premium car cabin air filter.
    Compatability
    The K&N Premium Cabin Air Filter is compatible with a number of vehicles, including Toyota, Subaru, Land Rover, Jaguar, Lexus, and Scion models. If you own a car made by another manufacturer, K&N does offer additional cabin air filters to choose from.
    Protection
    This air filter uses state-of-the-art filtration technology and an electrostatic charge to protect against mold, dust, mildew, fungi, germs, and other pollutants. Equip your vehicle with this cabin air filter, and you’ll experience a noticeable difference in smells.
    Longevity
    Unlike other cabin air filters, the K&N Premium Cabin Air Filter is washable. That’s right, you heard it here. This cabin air filter can be washed and reused multiple times, making it extremely eco-friendly.
    Driving Conditions
    This electrostatic cabin air filter will do fine in just about any driving situation. Whether you’re in a polluted city or a rural area, you can count on this filter to protect your vehicle from particles and odors.

    Pros

    Uses advanced technology
    Is washable, re-usable
    Protects against smells

    4. Best for Allergies: Bosch 6055C HEPA Cabin Air Filter

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    Why we like it: This car cabin filter is HEPA-rated and is designed to trap even the smallest of microscopic pollutants.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Pollutants are no match for this HEPA-rated cabin air filter. Opt for the Bosch 6055C HEPA Cabin Air Filter, and be confident that you’re protecting your car’s interior. Though, do keep in mind that this air filter did impact airflow for some customers, making it a poor choice for city slickers in the summer months.
    Compatability
    The Bosch 6055C HEPA Cabin Air Filter works with many different vehicles, Toyota and Lexus, included. If you don’t see your vehicle listed, check out the Bosch Automotive Store to find a compatible cabin air filter.
    Protection
    This filter comprises three layers and provides the cleanest air possible with 99.97% efficiency at 0.3 microns. Its support layer supports and protects the surface of the filter while the HEPA layer traps microscopic pollutants like pollen, mold, and other common allergens. Its last layer, a static cotton layer, is designed to improve particle-holding capacity and prolong the filter’s life.
    Longevity
    Bosch recommends replacing your cabin air filter every 12,000 miles or per your vehicle owner’s manual for maximum efficiency.
    Driving Conditions
    As we mentioned earlier, if you live in a polluted area, opting for a HEPA-rated filter makes for a great choice. Unlike other filters on the list, the Bosch 6055C HEPA Cabin Air Filter is remarkably efficient at providing you with the cleanest of clean air.

    Pros

    HEPA-rated
    Protects against common allergens
    Remarkably efficient

    Cons

    Can restrict airflow

    5. Best Two-Pack: Puroma Cabin Air Filter with Activated Carbon

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    Why we like it: The Puroma Cabin Air Filter with Activated Carbon comes with not one but two air filters. Buy ahead and save both time and money.
    Editor’s Rating:

    For less than $15, you’ll get two cabin air filters when choosing the Puroma Cabin Air Filter with Activated Carbon. Enjoy enhanced HVAC performance and easy installation. Do be aware that the filter might smell the first few times of use. Don’t worry, though, the factory-fresh odor will wear off.
    Compatability
    This filter works with most Toyota model years, along with many other vehicles. To be sure it’s a match for your car, though, make sure to check your trusty owner’s manual.
    Protection
    The Puroma Cabin Air Filter with Activated Carbon features an activated charcoal layer that efficiently removes dust and particles, keeping them well entering your vehicle’s interior. The car cabin air filter also features advanced filter technology to provide you and your passengers with a healthier in-car environment.
    Longevity
    While these filters are meant to last 12,000 miles, they can stop working efficiently before that. Fortunately, with two in the pack, that’s not much of an issue.
    Driving Conditions
    Pairing an activated charcoal layer with advanced filter technology makes this filter a good choice for areas where fine particles or debris might be a problem. It should have no problem combatting smells, either.

    Pros

    Includes two cabin air filters
    Used advanced filter technology
    Works with most Toyota models
    Features an activated charcoal layer

    Cons

    Odd smell first few times of use
    May need to be replaced before 12,000 miles

    6. Best Activated Carbon: Kootek Cabin Air Filter with Activated Carbon

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    Why we like it: The Kootek Cabin Air Filter with Activated Carbon is well priced, comes with two cabin air filters, and uses activated carbon to combat smells.
    Editor’s Rating:

    The Kootek Cabin Air Filter with Activated Carbon is a do it all kind of cabin air filter. It doesn’t come with an outrageous price tag, features two cabin air filters, and uses a slew of technology to ensure that it actually does what it’s supposed to. One of its only potential downfalls? This filter can slow down airflow on a hot summer day.
    Compatability
    The Kootek Cabin Air Filter with Activated Carbon is compatible with most vehicles. Before purchasing, we do recommend confirming this.
    Protection
    The Kootek Cabin Air Filter with Activated Carbon is made up of 24 layers. Each layer is densely packed with baking soda and activated carbon to trap particles and prevent bad smells. Too much pollution can impact the efficacy of this cabin air filter, though.
    Longevity
    While the Kootek Cabin Air Filter with Activated Carbon is meant to last a year, the more polluted an area you live in, the less likely it is to reach that 12-month mark as trapping larger particles will impact the filter’s longevity.
    Driving Conditions
    If you live in a polluted area, this is not the best car cabin air filter for satisfying your needs. The more pollution this cabin air filter faces, the less likely it is to last for a full year. In hotter weather, this cabin air filter can also slow down airflow, which is not what you want to hear when getting behind the wheel on a hot summer day.

    Pros

    Comes with two air filters
    Uses activated carbon
    Protects against pollution

    Cons

    May not last a year
    Can slow airflow

    7. Best Against Pollen: Mann-Filter CUK 2939 Cabin Filter

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    Why we like it: For allergy sufferers, we would like to introduce you to the Mann-Filter CUK 2939 Cabin Filter. Unlike other cabin filters listed, this one uses consistent filtration to take on everyday allergens.
    Editor’s Rating:

    The Mann-Filter CUK 2939 Cabin Filter is designed to filter out pollen, spores, dust, and harmful gases. For allergy sufferers, its consistent filtration performance is worth rejoicing over. Unfortunately, shipping problems have been reported when ordering this filter. For some, while it arrived on time and in good condition, it didn’t come adequately wrapped inside of the box.
    Compatability
    This filter was made to fit most Volkswagen and Audi models. Though it is possible, it might work in your car. To confirm, check your owner’s manual.
    Protection
    The Mann-Filter CUK 2939 Cabin Filter uses activated carbon from MANN-FILTER to prevent almost 100% of particles from entering your car. Whether it’s pollen or soot, count on the premium activated carbon layer to protect you and your passengers from tiny particles, and even harmful gases and unpleasant odors.
    Longevity
    To ensure optimal performance, you should change this filter every year. Fortunately, it’s easy to install and doesn’t require a mechanic’s touch.
    Driving Conditions
    With its well-equipped carbon layers, this cabin air filter will work well even in polluted environments. It’s even able to take on the foulest of smells, making it a safe city dweller option during summer.

    Pros

    Uses activated carbon
    Prevents allergens from getting in your car
    Easy to install

    Cons

    Shipped without a bag

    8. Easiest to Install: ECOGARD XC36080 Premium Cabin Air Filter

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    Why we like it: The ECOGARD XC36080 Premium Cabin Air Filter is a suitable pick for Honda owners because of its modest price and its ability to prevent 99. 5% of all dust, pollen, air pollution, allergens, pet dander, and other airborne contaminants from getting into your car.
    Editor’s Rating:

    This cabin air filter means business. Whether it’s dust or air pollution, the ECOGARD XC36080 Premium Cabin Air Filter is no match for it. Unfortunately, however, this cabin air filter isn’t as good as stopping unpleasant odors.
    Compatability
    The ECOGARD XC36080 Premium Cabin Air Filter works with all Honda models. Remember, though, this is always worth confirming before pressing the buy button.
    Protection
    When it comes to dust or other air contaminants, the ECOGARD XC36080 Premium Cabin Air Filter has what it takes to stop them. Unfortunately, the same can’t be said for smells. Whether it’s smoke or diesel fumes, this cabin air filter likely isn’t capable of stopping it.
    Longevity
    The ECOGARD XC36080 Premium Cabin Air Filter will last a full year or 12,000 miles. For the best results, make sure to change it on time.
    Driving Conditions
    For polluted areas, the ECOGARD XC36080 Premium Cabin Air Filter is a good pick. If you live in an area that doesn’t always smell like a bed of fresh flowers, though, this might not be the cabin air filter for you.

    Pros

    Protects against air contaminants
    Isn’t expensive to buy
    Works in most Honda models

    Cons

    Doesn’t protect against odors

    9. Best for Odors: EPAuto CP285 Premium Cabin Air Filter

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    Why we like it: This cabin air filter uses both baking soda and carbon to make sure it keeps the air in your vehicle clean.
    Editor’s Rating:

    The EPAuto CP285 Premium Cabin Air Filter fits in several different kinds of cars, is modestly priced, and uses baking soda and carbon to prevent particles and smells from entering your car’s cabin.
    Compatability
    Whether you drive a Toyota or a Subaru, this car cabin air filter is likely to do just fine in your car. Also worth mentioning? The EPAuto CP285 Premium Cabin Air Filter is very easy to install, meaning there’s no reason to stop at the local mechanic next time you need a new cabin air filter.
    Protection
    The EPAuto CP285 Premium Cabin Air Filter uses carbon and baking soda to trap particles and prevent smells. While it does a great job of preventing particles from entering the vehicle’s cabin, it’s no match for more potent fumes.
    Longevity
    Like other cabin filters on the list, the EPAuto CP285 Premium Cabin Air Filter should be changed yearly.
    Driving Conditions
    For polluted areas, the EPAuto CP285 Premium Cabin Air Filter is an okay choice, though you could certainly do better by opting for a HEPA-rated filter like the Bosch 6055C HEPA Cabin Air Filter.

    Pros

    Will put a stop to particles entering your car
    Uses baking soda and carbon
    Easy to install
    Cheap price

    Cons

    Doesn’t offer strong odor protection

    10. Best for Air Flow: FRAM Fresh Breeze Cabin Air Filter

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    Why we like it: The FRAM Fresh Breeze Cabin Air Filter filters up to 98% of dust particles and is used in 80% of all vehicles built since the 2000 model year.
    Editor’s Rating:

    The FRAM Fresh Breeze Cabin Air Filter is a champ when it comes to combatting debris, preventing odors, and improving airflow. Not to mention, it comes accompanied by a price tag that won’t break the bank.
    Compatability
    This cabin air filter can be used in 80% of all vehicles built since the 2000 model year, meaning there’s a good chance it will work in your car. To be sure, take a gander at your owner’s manual before purchasing. If your vehicle is older than that, this cabin air filter simply won’t work.
    Protection
    This cabin air filter uses Arm & Hammer baking soda combined with carbon to clean the air flowing through your car’s ventilation system. In doing so, it more airflow for better performance while also preventing musty odors from taking residence inside the vehicle.
    Longevity
    The FRAM Fresh Breeze Cabin Air Filter is easy to install and, unlike other cabin air filters on the list, should be changed every 15,000 miles.
    Driving Conditions
    This cabin air filter is able to remove 98% of dirt, dust, and airborne allergens from the air passing through your car’s ventilation system. Whether you’re in a densely populated city with bumper to bumper traffic or find yourself winding along a scenic road, you can breathe easy knowing the FRAM Fresh Breeze Cabin Air Filter was designed to reduce your exposure to airborne contaminants.

    Pros

    Easy to install
    Lasts longer than other cabin air filters
    Uses baking soda
    Works in 80% of vehicles

    Cons

    Only works in 2000 model years or newer

    Your Guide to Buying the Best Car Cabin Air Filter
    In this section, we’ll take a deep dive into the different features you should consider when choosing the best car cabin air filter for your car.
    What to Look for in a Cabin Air Filter
    If your vehicle is a 2000 model year or new, it likely came standard with a car cabin air filter. However, there’s little to no chance that the salesperson who sold your car explained what it does, when to replace it, and what to look for in your next car cabin air filter. Fortunately, we’ve got you covered.
    When it comes to buying a new car cabin air filter, you need to consider what features are most important to you. For some drivers, a filter that catches dust and allergens is all they need. For others, combatting musty odors is an absolute must. You also need to consider the air quality of where you live. If you live in an area with poor air quality, you might want to invest in a cabin air filter that’s better able to catch dust, dirt, and other tiny particles before they even enter your car’s cabin.
    With four different types of car cabin air filters available, you will have plenty to choose from. Fortunately, with cabin air filters like Bosch 6055C HEPA Cabin Air Filter and the K&N Premium Cabin Air Filter on the market, there is no shortage of right products to choose from.
    Benefits of Car Cabin Air Filters
    There are more reasons than one to keep your car outfitted with a clean cabin air filter. Not only will it improve your car’s airflow, but it will also help put a stop to allergens invading your interior. If you’re looking to protect your engine from dust and other particles, you should make sure to check out our list of the best engine air filters.
    Increase HVAC Performance
    Can you remember the last time you replaced your cabin air filter? If you’ve never replaced it, chances are it’s a mess. Unfortunately for you, that mess can negatively impact HVAC performance by not supplying enough air to your car’s interior. To increase HVAC performance, regularly change your car’s cabin air filter. Not sure how often that should be? Not to worry, we’ll get there below
    Say Goodbye to Foul Odors
    If you’re met with a musty smell every time you get behind the wheel, it’s time to get a cabin air filter replacement. To say goodbye to foul odors behind the wheel of your car, opt for a filter replacement that has activated carbon or charcoal to absorb foul odors.
    Breathe Easy
    Allergy sufferers can attest that being hit with a coughing or sneezing fit is never fun, especially when on a long drive. Consider a carbon air filter designed to trap dust, pollen, and other allergens to help you breathe easier next time you take the wheel.
    Car Cabin Air Filter FAQ
    Unsure of what a cabin air filter does? How often your car’s cabin air filter should be replaced? In this brief FAQ, we’ll answer the most commonly asked questions about cabin air filters.
    What Does a Cabin Air Filter Do?
    Your car’s cabin air filter cleans the air that comes through your car’s heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning system and is designed to catch dust, pollen, and other airborne material. Some cabin air filters, like the Mann-Filter CUK 2939 Cabin Filter also prevent foul odors.
    Do All Cars Have a Cabin Air Filter?
    A majority of cars come standard with a cabin air filter. If you’re unsure if your vehicle has a cabin air filter, check your owner’s manual.
    How Often Should I Change the Cabin Air Filter in My Car?
    If you still have that owner’s manual handy, finding the answer to this question should be easy. Typically, though, manufacturers recommend changing the cabin air filter in your car every 12,000 or 15,000 miles.
    Does a Mechanic Have to Change the Cabin Air Filter?
    Sure, a mechanic might tell you otherwise, but you don’t need one to change the cabin air filter in your car. Changing your cabin air filter yourself can save you both time and money. Rather than waiting at the mechanic and forking over a pretty penny, change the cabin air filter yourself. Do so in as little as 15 minutes, and without having to pay a sizeable fee.
    How do I Change the Cabin Air Filter in My Car?
    First, figure out where your cabin air filter is. Most are located behind the glove compartment, or beneath the windshield. Changing your car cabin air filter doesn’t require many tools, and can be done quickly. Just check out this video
    Does the Cabin Air Filter Affect My Car’s AC?
    Of course! That’s why it’s so essential to change your cabin air filter regularly. If your car’s filtration system is clogged, it will lead to a lack of airflow. For maximum airflow and better ventilation, change your cabin air filter regularly.
    Keep the Air in Your Car Clean!
    Now you have the inside scoop on what a cabin air filter is, why it’s essential, and how often you should be replacing the one in your car. Not only that, but we’ve given you the inside track on some of the best options currently on the market today. With this information in hand, you can be confident when purchasing a new cabin air filter for your car. More

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    The 10 Best Car Clear Coats to Buy 2020

    Everyone wants a car that looks brand new even after years of ownership and thousands of miles on the clock. The simplest way to keep your paintwork looking sharp is to keep it protected by a strong clear coat varnish.
    A quality clear coat refreshes and protects the factory paint job on your car, makes colors more vibrant, and creates a shell over the bodywork, shielding your ride from minor scratches, dings, and other damage. Keep reading to see

    Picking the Best Clear Coat For Your Car
    A clear coat is exactly what the name suggests it is. It’s literally a clear coat of paint, with no color or other pigmentation added to it.
    Clear coats are applied to your car as a final step, on top of the other layers of paint. Because it has zero pigment and is completely clear, a clear coat sits on top of the existing color and acts as a varnish or second skin. Here is what you want to keep in mind while shopping for clear coat paints.
    Finish and Gloss
    One of the biggest reasons to buy a clear coat is to enhance the look of your paintwork. Some clears have higher gloss levels than others, for example, SpeedoKote Ultra High Gloss Glamour Clear has one of the highest levels of gloss we’ve ever seen, and that leads to a much better-looking finish. Obviously, this also means a little more work to polish it out, but we think it’s worth the effort.
    How the Coat is Applied
    There are three ways to apply clear, by spraying it on and wiping, by rattle-can spray, and by professional paint spray-gun.
    The first two methods are generally more suitable for single panels and spot work because you’re not going to get the same even coverage as you would with a spray-gun. But there’s a cost investment with spray guns, and it might not be worth picking up an expensive kit just to apply a clear coat to your car every couple of years.
    Ease of Application
    Spray cans or hand-applied clears are also much easier to apply. A spray clear requires a lot of initial setup and might lead to other issues like ambient temperature control or extensive preparation.
    Toughness and Resistance
    The second reason to apply a clear coat is to protect your car’s finish. If you’re not looking to maximize gloss and finish, you’re probably looking for the best protection you can find.
    A clear like KBS DiamondFinish is incredibly tough, giving the best level of protection against impact damage, environmental issues, and chemicals.
    Lifespan
    No paint job lasts forever. The lifespan of a clear is based around many factors, but can include the quality of the application, where the vehicle is stored, how often you drive it, and environmental factors like how hot your summers are and how acidic the local rain is.
    Most good clear coats will last at least a year or two, and some can last up to five.
    Cost
    No one has an infinite budget, and monetary cost is an obvious concern when you’re buying a new product. Most clears aren’t expensive, especially spray application clears. A lot of the cost can come from supplementary costs, like cleaning materials, spray-gun attachments, and more.
    Types of Top Coats
    Not all clear coats are created equal. There are different types of clear coat varnish, which are all suited for different situations.
    Topcoat Clear Coat
    A topcoat clear coat is what can be thought of as the standard clear coat. It’s generally applied as a last step by the manufacturers, over the base paint. Topcoats are normally simple to polish, give a glossy finish, and dry fast.
    Turbo Clear Coat
    Turbo coats are designed for a quick fix. They’re great for repairing paintwork after a crash, and help to cover superficial damage from scratches and dents. Turbo coats need a lot of polishing, but dry fast and buff to a glossy finish.
    Glamor Clear Coat
    A glamor clear coat is moisture resistant and takes a long time to dry, but buffs to a super glossy, showroom finish.
    Higher-Solid Clear Coat
    Expensive, and harder to apply because of the thickness and the extra drying time, higher solid coats provide the best level of protection, and are the correct choice if you live in an area with tougher weather conditions.

    Top 10 Best Clear Coats for Cars 2020

    1. Best Overall Pick: SpeedoKote SMR-130

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    Why we like it: Trusted by professionals, SpeedoKote is diamond hard and buffs to a professional shine, without the hard work that a lot of other brands demand.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    The biggest reason we rate SpeedoKote so highly and the main reason it’s at the top of our list is the incredible level of protection it offers.
    Once SpeedoKote has been applied correctly, it dries into a rock hard armored shell, which provides protection against almost everything your vehicle could face out on the road. SpeedoKote is the full package. It’s tough against impact, has fantastic UV sun damage protection, oil and chemical defense, including road cleaning chemicals, and one of the strongest weather resistances on the market.
    How it Looks
    Compared to other clear coats, SpeedoKote acrylic urethane clear coat goes on incredibly smoothly, and dries to a very high gloss, top quality shine. Once it’s dry, SpeedoKote is easy to buff, without many of the issues you might face from cheaper brands, for example, major smearing. That makes SpeedoKote a great product for amateurs as well as professionals.
    Car detailers, driving teams, and other experienced professionals trust SpeedoKote to protect their vehicles. If it’s good enough for a seven-figure track car, it’s good enough for you.
    Ease of Use
    The only real downside with SpeedoKote products is how difficult they are to use. They are designed as a professional level solution, which means you’re going to have to have a decent setup to apply it correctly. The minimum is a garage and a spray gun, but being able to control the temperature and minimize dust particulates is also recommended.
    The package comes with one gallon (128 ounces) of clear coat mixture and one quart (32 ounces) of activator. The product is mixed in a 4:1 ratio, which activates it and gives you a short window to spray it down. Once the coat is applied, it touch dries in minutes, and it is ready to buff in as little as 4 to 6 hours.
    SpeedoKote should be applied at a temperature between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. When you’re mixing, it’s also worth being careful about how much you use. The standard gallon is generous and far , so it’s deceptively simple to over mix and end up with waste. SpeedoKote clear coats can be more expensive than other products, but when you factor in the long shelf life, one purchase could easily keep your car safe several times over.

    Pros

    Fantastic protection against everything
    High gloss, beautiful finish
    USA made, to match US car standards

    Cons

    Needs a spray gun to apply

    2. Best for Paint Matching: Dupli-Color Clear Exact Match Top Coat

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    Why we like it: Dupli-Color is designed to match perfectly to your existing car’s color. If you need to touch up damage or color match a panel, choose Dupli-Color.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    Dupli-Color has been in business for 60 years, and it shows. This clear coat requires the standard 3 layers to provide sufficient protection, but once those layers have been applied the resulting finish is a tough and hard-wearing glossy shell.
    It’s resistant to all of the usual suspects, protecting your paintwork from weather effects, salt, oil, chemicals, UV, scratches, and dings. While it doesn’t have the same level of protection as some more dedicated clears, you can always choose to apply more layers if protection is something you need.
    How it Looks
    Dupli-Color is a premium automotive clear coat, and it shows. When you order it, you order based on the existing paint job. Dupli-color can be ordered to precisely match the shade list of your vehicle, and each spray is formulated to provide the best finish possible, down to the precise year your car was made.
    Spray cans like these can be harder to apply evenly over large areas, so we recommend a clear coat like this one for smaller touch-up jobs. If you need to cover an entire car, or you’re respraying several major panels, it could be worth either purchasing or hiring a spray gun, or going to a professional.
    A rattle can like this is never going to match the appearance of a clear coat applied using a spray gun, and might require more buffing for an even finish. But with a little care and elbow grease, a can or two of Dupli-Color will leave your car looking fantastic, with a strong, clear gloss shine.
    Ease of Use
    Dupli-Color clear coats are made to color match your car’s existing paintwork, down to the year it rolled off the assembly. It’s compatible with all standard OEM paint finishes, and it’s designed to be used after you apply a new layer of spray paint. The list of compatible vehicles goes back over 50 years, so no matter what you’re driving you’ll be able to find the perfect coat.
    Spray cans are the easiest type of clear coat to use, so even first-timers should be able to get an even finish. Dupli-Color cans are designed specifically for use on bodywork, with an EZ touch 360 nozzle which is simple to use and lays down the clear coat evenly, minimizing streaks and other problems. Be careful in cooler weather though, as that can cause the nozzle to clog.
    Unlike a lot of clear coats, Dupli-Color dries incredibly quickly. Some coats can take upwards of a day to dry fully, but Dupli-Color is touch-dry in 30 minutes, and ready to handle in 60 minutes. Most clear coats need multiple layers, and the short drying time means you could do this in a day, saving you massive amounts of time and getting your vehicle back on the road as fast as possible.
    The downside of spray cans is that they’re not designed to cover an entire car’s bodywork. Instead, it should be used for small scale touch-up jobs, body damage, and matching car accessories.
    On the upside, you get a lot of paint for the money, and it’s very reasonably priced, making this the perfect choice for protecting repairs or damages.

    Pros

    Suitable for any vehicle, with any paint job
    No mix, no fuss, easy to spray and apply
    Dries incredibly fast

    Cons

    One can will only cover one panel with three coats, on average
    You might have to abandon the can with a small amount left in it, because of spatter

    3. Best Premium Pick: KBS Coatings 8304 DiamondFinish Clear Coat

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    Why we like it: A super hard coat that’s designed for performance and great for harsh weather
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    KBS DiamondFinish makes good on its name. Once it’s down and dried, it’s almost invincible. It’s a single part formula with 60 percent solids. This leads to a much tougher finish than you find with two-part, unmixed clear coats, which are most other clear coats on the market.
    The coat itself is flexible, which minimizes chipping, peeling, and flaking. Sometimes, clear coats need replacing way before they should because of a scratch or chip that spreads, and this minimizes that.
    It boasts strong environmental protection, including UV. It’s great against oxidation and yellowing, and resistant to harsh weather. Finally, the coat is highly heat resistant, which means this is suitable for the protection of cylinder heads and engine blocks.
    How it Looks
    We’re not going to lie. Compared to high-gloss performance clear coats, KBS DiamondFinish doesn’t have quite the same level of shine.
    It’s only a semi-gloss finish, and will be ready to polish within 24 hours of application. With this in mind, it’s better for vehicles aimed at the race track and performance cars whose paintwork is already high-gloss, or vehicles that are going to see a lot of hard wear and tear, like trucks and vans.
    Ease of Use
    Despite being designed for industrial use, with applications that go beyond cars and vans and into domestic and marine machinery, KBS DiamondFinish is surprisingly simple to use.
    You’re still going to need a spray gun or roller brush to apply this, but unlike a lot of other clear coats, it’s very user friendly. For a start, it can be used directly on metal, so you can treat chrome and other exposed metalwork as well as engines in the same coat without worrying about flaking or peeling.
    Two, it can be applied directly over existing paintwork. Some clear coats need a brand new coat of paint to effectively bond, and if applied over existing paint that’s been dry for longer than a few days, won’t lay correctly and will quickly peel back.
    Supposedly, KBS DiamondFinish can be used with minimal surface preparation, letting you spray this directly onto your car. Though we would still prepare the area properly, wiping everything down to remove all particulates and other foreign objects that could cause a poor finish.
    You can buy exactly what you need, with pint, gallon, and quart options available, and you don’t need any extras or additives because it all comes as one ready-mixed package.

    Pros

    Unparalleled protection
    Heat and corrosion resistant
    Simple to apply for such a strong product

    Cons

    Expensive
    Only a semi-gloss finish

    4. Best Budget Pick: USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat

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    Why we like it: If you need to clear coat your car, but don’t have the options for something like SpeedoKote that requires expensive paint guns, USC Spray Max 2k is the next best thing. It’s as simple as using a can of spray paint, but still gives excellent results.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    For a single application spray, USC Spray Max 2k offers really good protection. The chemical resistance and all-weather coverage of the coat is really high, so this is great if you live somewhere that sees a lot of rain and snow. Like all clear coats, scratch resistance is down to how many layers you use, so if you’re worried about pebbles, debris, or branches damaging your paintwork, buy extra and put down at least 3 layers.
    There is a slight issue. Lack of UV coverage. Most modern paints are a lot more UV resistant, but if you’re driving an older vehicle and want to preserve the color of your paintwork, you might want to look at another product.
    How it Looks
    Once it’s dry, USC Spray Max leaves your car with a high gloss, durable finish. As one of the more basic spray cans, you’re not likely to get the same finish you would with a higher-end product.
    You also need to leave the coat for at least a week before wet sanding or buffing it to a polish. But with a little love and TLC, the results will come close to much more expensive products, for a lot less hassle and cost.
    Ease of Use
    Compared to most clear coats, USC Spray Max 2k is ridiculously easy to use. When your car is prepared, you activate the paint by pulling out the tab from a can, then giving it a good shake, just like spray paint. This breaks the internal seal and starts mixing the components. Packs start at two cans, which is enough for around one coat on an average-sized sedan.
    The cans are light and easy to hold, with a special nozzle that’s different to regular spray cans. It’s designed to work just like a spray gun nozzle, so you get a level, even and clear flow. It only takes a few minutes to cover a panel, making this by far the simplest product on our list.
    Spray Max 2k is great for quick jobs, touch-ups and repairs. As this is a rattle-can, it’s not suited for full-body coverage. If you’re careful it might be possible, but expect to have to buff out some streaks and runs. At this point, it might be worth considering whether you’d be better served dropping a little more cash on an air compressed spray gun and something like SpeedoKote.
    This clear coat can be applied to almost all vehicles without worry, and adheres to the basecoats on all vehicles with very little preparation. Just remember that once you’ve pulled the tab on the can the contents will start to cure, so has to be used within 48 hours of breaking the seal. That means, if you need to apply multiple coats from one can, you should budget time accordingly.

    Pros

    Simple to use and simple to apply
    Works on top of any base coat
    Budget cost

    Cons

    Only lasts 48 hours after activation
    Not suited for full vehicles

    5. Best Anti-Corrosion: POR-15 45718 Top Coat Gloss Clear

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    Why we like it: A dedicated anti-corrosion topcoat that can extend the life of metal that’s dying to rust.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    POR-15 is designed to prevent corrosion and other direct, physical threats to the paintwork of your vehicle. That makes this a fantastic option if you’re commonly driving longer distances, or driving on roads where you can expect your car to face chemical hazards.
    As mentioned, this can also be used on bare metal, so it’s great for sealing aluminum parts on an engine, or areas that have been chromed.
    One warning. Direct contact with oil will break down the clear coat. A quick spray down will fix the issue, but it’s something to bear in mind.
    How it Looks
    Despite being a clear coat that’s designed to fight against rust, the finish is really good. It blends well and buffs out easily, with no dry lines. Once it’s polished, you’ll be left with a high quality and super glossy finish.
    Ease of Use
    Ready to use out of the can, POR-15 can be used on paint or straight onto bare metal, with no primer or undercoat needed. Both common application options of spray can or ready mixed paint are available.
    For best results, wipe down the area you’re treating, and make sure you thoroughly clean off any rust first, because it doesn’t bond well at all with rust. It’s also worth applying an anti-rust solution once the area has been stripped down, like POR-15 rust preventative spray, to keep it clear for longer.
    While the formula has generally good adherence, for best results spray onto dry area, and don’t overspray, as it can dry to a gummy finish.

    Pros

    Excellent anti-corrosion and anti-rust formula
    Easy to use, with rattle-can and paint options
    Can be applied straight to bare metal

    Cons

    Oil attacks the formula

    6. Best for Wheels: VHT SP184 Clear Coat for Wheels

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    Why we like it: Expensive wheels need specialist protection, and VHT SP184 offers everything you need on the road. Heat shielding, chemical resistance, and general protection. It’s all there.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    The wheels on your car take the most beating. It stands to reason, as they’re the part that’s in contact with the road. Anything that gets kicked up, whether it’s dirt, oil, or chemicals, or even just plain old water spray, is going to hit them first and hit them hard.
    That means wheels can age a whole lot quicker than the rest of your car, and if you’ve invested in a decent set of alloys, watching them dull down or even corrode is heartbreaking.
    The main threat your wheels will face on the road is road-based chemicals and oils. VHT SP184 is designed to be chemical resistant, and works on all steel and aluminum wheels.
    The powerful formula resists cracking and fading, resists oxidation, and is strong enough to stand up to the rigors of long drives, salt, dust, even large stones. Finally, it’s temperature resistant up to 250 degrees, so the finish isn’t going to bubble or warp even if you’re running big sports discs and have to slam down on your brakes in an emergency situation.
    How it Looks
    VHT SP184 clear coat is a wet-look clear gloss. It’s designed to be used straight over paint, especially VHT’s wheel paints, which can be bought alongside the clear.
    As it’s so simple to use, it’s easy to get a professional finish, even if you’ve never done anything like this before. The finish lasts a long time, and even after several months will look like new after a quick wash and polish.
    Ease of Use
    VHT clear coat is a can based spray. It’s simple to use, and can be sprayed directly onto bare metal, primer, or finished paint straight out of the packaging. With a clear coat, especially a wheel paint like this one, most of the finish can be attributed to the preparation. Start by sanding down, cleaning, and degreasing your wheels.
    Once the wheels are prepared, spray a single light coat for coverage. VHT clear coat is touch dry in around thirty minutes, and dries completely overnight. Once that initial coat is dry, spray a second, thicker coat for protection and finish.
    Spray paints like these are more susceptible to runs, and you need to be especially careful when you’re using these as you’re not spraying onto large, flat panels. Make sure to spray from at least 12 inches away. It’s better to apply multiple smaller coats rather than one heavy one.
    A single can is probably not enough to cover a large set of wheels, especially if you drive a larger vehicle or a truck. Plan for at least two, possibly three cans.

    Pros

    Incredibly easy to use
    Good resistance to everything your car will face on the road
    Nice finish

    Cons

    Can nozzles can occasionally jam

    7. Best Anti-Rust: Rust-Oleum Automotive Gloss Clear Body Coat

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    Why we like it: A dependable and easy to use spray with fantastic rust protection
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    Rust-Oleum’s acrylic lacquer formula is very durable and offers long-lasting protection against all the usual threats, including UV, weather, and scratching.
    On top of the standard protection offered by clear coats, Rust-Oleum also offers great protection against rust, hence the name. Considering that rust is one of the issues that can cause the most damage with older cars, anything that can help you prevent that damage on your classic piece is great.
    How it Looks
    Rust-Oleum’s low volatile organic compound blend comes out shiny and sharp. It’s easy to polish, by hand or machine, and the rich formula can be buffed to an incredibly high-gloss finish.
    Ease of Use
    Rust-Oleum comes ready to use straight out of the tin. It’s easy to apply and sprays on smooth, but  requires a paint spray-gun system.
    Once it’s down, it’s touch dry in about half an hour and ready for more coats. Even better, with Rust-Oleum, unlike a lot of clear coats, there’s no recommended number of coats. That means you can lay down as many coats as you want, until you’re happy with the look and the level of protection you’re getting.
    It works on almost all acrylic enamels, so should work with your manufacturer, unless you’re rolling in some super-obscure bespoke paint job. Even then, it should be fine. Just check with the manufacturer first.

    Pros

    Light formula is easy to spray
    Can be thinned out as needed
    Dries to a protective shine that’s easily buffed

    Cons

    Packaging is terrible

    8. Best Full Kit: Color N Drive Deep Gloss Ceramic

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    Why we like it: If you don’t have any of the gear needed to apply a clear coat from your own home, this kit by Color N Drive has everything you need for the job, start to finish, in one box.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    Contrary to what you might think, a hand-applied clear coat can almost give you the same level of protection as a professionally applied clear that’s been laid down with a spray-gun.
    Once applied, this clear coat can last for up to 5 years. It’s supposed to last for around 150 washes,  according to the manufacturers, which translates out to washing your car about once every two weeks. However, if it’s not applied correctly or you face a lot of tough situations and rough weather it can start to peel sooner, after around one or two years.
    The protective coating is acid rain resistant, water and dirt repellent, as well as UV and calcium resistant.
    How it Looks
    Considering this is a clear that’s designed to be applied purely by hand, the result is impressive. It’s a deep, glossy shine that bonds with an enhances the color of any standard manufacturer’s paintwork.
    Ease of Use
    Color N Drive Deep Gloss is specifically designed to be as simple to use as possible. The idea is that someone with zero experience in car detailing could use this. The boxed kit contains everything you need to treat and coat your car with a solid, long-lasting clear coat.
    To use, you clean the car down, making sure that the surface is clean and free from anything that could cause the coat not to bond. Then spray it down with the included pre-treatment solution and spread it. Once dry, spray the ceramic clear coat over your car and spread this evenly with the included tools.
    Once the first coat is dry, repeat the process, then polish up to an even and glossy shine. It’s as simple as that. The kit supposedly contains enough solution for treating two cars, so you can quite easily treat your partner’s vehicle in addition to your own, or save the remainder and re-treat your own in a year or two.
    The only downside is how time-consuming the process is. Because you’re not using power tools, it can take a good half of a day to finish the whole process. But considering you should only have to do this once every few years, that’s not a huge ask.

    Pros

    Incredibly simple to use, and the whole kit is provided
    Good protection
    Decent finish, with a high gloss

    Cons

    Takes a little more elbow grease than some clear coats
    Bond might fail if the initial surface isn’t cleaned properly

    9. Best for Gloss: SpeedoKote Ultra High Gloss Glamour Clear

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    Why we like it: A ridiculously glossy, professional finish, balanced by the cost and fact that it’s a professional standard product that’s difficult to use.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    SpeedoKote Glamour Clear has a high amount of solids, which translates to increased protection over lower solid clears.
    The finish is tough, even after only the two recommended coats, and it has exceptional UV resistance, which is great as you’ve probably bought this with an eye to protecting the valuable look of your car.
    The only downside with high solid clears is their increased tendency to peel, so you might need to reapply this a little more often than other choices.
    How it Looks
    Let’s be fair, if you’re spending the money on SpeedoKote Ultra High Gloss, you’re buying it for the look.
    This clear coat is an elite level product that will give you a show level finish. It has the highest level of gloss and distinctness of image (DOI) out of any product on the market. DOI is how much light scatter you get from a surface, and the ridiculously high DOI of this clear coat means that you’re going to end up with a mirror finish on every panel, every time.
    Compared to other clear coats, you’re also looking at better than average leveling and high levels of gloss retention. Both of these things make this ideal for restorations of older paintwork, or regular re-application in the case of track cars.
    For professionals, the formula can be mixed at different thicknesses, letting you fine-tune the curing time and finish, and set it precisely to the look of your ride.
    Ease of Use
    To go alongside the professional quality finish is a professional difficulty of application. As with all SpeedoKote products, to apply this clear you’re going to need garage space and a spray-gun system.
    According to SpeedoKote themselves, the best way to apply this clear coat is with a spray-gun with a specific 1.3mm tip. Apply the first coat, then flash harden with a heat gun and leave for 10 minutes, before applying a second coat and leaving to dry.

    Pros

    The single best finish on the market
    Ultra-high gloss protective shell
    Good protection, especially against UV damage

    Cons

    Very expensive
    Harder to apply than other clear coats

    10. Best for General Use: TopCoat F11 Polish and Sealer

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    Why we like it: If you’re unsure about which clear coat to buy, and you don’t know what’s going to suit your vehicle, TopCoat F11 is a solid bet. It’s designed to be simple to use, and work on almost anything, including cars, boats, planes, even fabrics.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Protection
    Once treated with TopCoat, your paintwork is protected from the full range of problems your car might face on the road, including dust and debris, bird droppings and bug residue, acidic rain, and weathering.
    The application process also helps to cover up existing damage, including paint imperfections, scratches, and spiderweb cracks.
    TopCoat F11 is designed to work with more than just cars. It can apply a protective, hydrophobic coating to almost anything, including bikes, planes, boats, and other vehicles. It also works on non-porous building materials (anything not brick or concrete) and even fabrics. That means you can buy a kit and treat everything you have. Restore the water-resistance of biker jackets, gloss to leathers, even spray down your garden shed for extra protection.
    How it Looks
    TopCoat F11 is a combined sealant and polish. Because of this, getting a glossy, even finish is incredibly simple.
    It’s a single-step process that naturally improves color, hides imperfections, and brings paintwork up to a gleaming shine. It’s also designed to work alongside waxes and other polishes, lowering the time that it takes to wax your car by as much as half.
    Ease of Use
    TopCoat F11 is probably the simplest clear coat on our list. It’s a one-step application process that works on anything without and special preparation. But it’s still recommended that you clean down your car before application as you would with any other clear.
    It contains no volatile organic compounds, solvents, or abrasives and it’s odorless, meaning it can be safely used in tightly enclosed spaces without ventilation. F11 can also withstand high temperatures, making it safe to use on your engine, brakes and other parts that are exposed to heat, as well as on grills and stoves around the home.
    Finally, F11 is designed as a wax replacement, which means it polishes as it’s applied. You’re still going to need to go over the finish with the right tools, but it does save you time and money on wax.

    Pros

    Incredibly easy one-step application process
    Good value for money
    Suitable for use on almost anything

    Cons

    Not as protective as dedicated clear coats

    What You Need to Know When Buying a Clear Coat for Your Car
    Every clear coat is different. From the method of application to the finish, every individual brand does things differently. Here’s what you need to know:
    Why Does My Car Need a Clear Coat?
    Clear coats massively increase the protection your car has from damage to the exterior. A good clear coat can protect your car from the elements, including acidic rain and from paint fading through the sun’s UV rays. Thicker clear coats can even protect your paintwork from scratches and other visible damage, whether that be stones kicked up whilst driving, bushes and branches, or simple day to day wear.
    There are two reasons you might need to purchase and apply an aftermarket clear coat is simple.
    First, some car manufacturers apply a thin clear coat or don’t apply one at all. Because of the benefits of a clear coat, if you know that your car doesn’t have the protection of a clear coat paint job, buying and applying one yourself is a smart choice.
    Second, like all paintwork, a clear coat slowly but surely wears out over time, meaning that it needs to be reapplied every few months to every few years, depending on outside conditions. With an older vehicle, or if you regularly drive on roads that are heavily salted, oily, or treated with chemicals, reapplying a clear coat to keep your paintwork protected is a smart investment.
    What Are the Benefits of a Clear Coat?
    Clear coats sit on top of your paintwork and act as another defensive layer, but they also have other benefits, including:
    Increased Durability
    The main benefit of a clear coat. Another layer of paint protects the pigmented paint underneath, meaning that damage that would otherwise leave visible scratches or dents will just hit the clear.
    Enhancing Existing Paintwork
    A clear coat is much cheaper than a complete respray or spraying a panel. If you have a vehicle with tired or old looking paintwork, a clear coat can bring out the color and shine of existing paintwork.
    Manufacturer’s Necessity
    Some paints require a clear coat. For example, illusion powders need a clear coat because a clear coat has different light refraction properties to paint, setting off the paint underneath.
    Hiding Minor Damage
    Scratches and other tiny imperfections in the paintwork might not normally be seen but are visible when you’ve recently had the car waxed. These imperfections ruin an otherwise perfect finish, but a clear coat will fill in these gaps and help hide the issues.
    Selling Your Car
    People buy with their eyes, and first impressions matter. A lot of the time, people decide whether they want the car in the first few seconds, and will only be put off if they find something wrong. Making your vehicle look as glossy and clean as possible can tip the scales when it comes to the buyer getting out their credit card.
    How Do I Prepare My Car for Applying a Clear Coat?
    Like all paint jobs, the key to an even and attractive clear coat is all about preparation. Make sure you have everything ready before you begin.
    Check your base coat for imperfections. Clear coats will do nothing to hide bumps, smears, swirls, or dirt. It can potentially make the issue worse by highlighting these problems, and once the clear coat is down, there is nothing you can do to fix the problem besides strip the paintwork down to nothing and start again.
    If you can, test your clear coat before you spray anything valuable. You can test on a scrap piece if you have anything available, or a piece of flat, glossy card.
    Most clear coat varnishes require multiple layers. Start light and build up. Applying a heavy first layer can cause shrinkage in the paint, which might lead to early cracks or peeling.
    Spray at a distance of around 6 to 8 inches, unless your specific product says to do differently. Any closer can cause bubbles or dripping, and too far can lead to irregular coverage.
    Your last coat should look the same as it will once the coat is dry. If your final layer of clear coat isn’t glossy, reapply the coat or stop and assess what’s going wrong.
    Prepping your car when you spray your clear coat also depends on how you’re applying it. There are two situations when you will be applying a clear coat; when you’re re-spraying a panel or a whole vehicle or spraying clear coat over the existing paintwork to spot fix.
    How to Apply a Clear Coat Over New Paintwork.
    Begin by following the manufacturer’s instructions for the base coat of paint you are applying to your vehicle.
    Once the basecoat has dried for the appropriate amount of time, make sure it is clean and dry.
    Apply the clear coat straight over the top, as if it was another coat of paint.
    Some clear coats may require multiple layers. Check the manufacturer’s instructions before applying.
    Once the clear coat is applied, leave to dry, then buff to a shine.
    How to Apply a Clear Coat Over Existing Paintwork or Repair a Patch of Damaged Clear Coat.
    Begin by wet sanding the area that needs to be sprayed until it’s smooth.
    If reapplying clear coat over an existing surface, you will also need to feather the edges where the new clear coat meets the old.
    Clear the area to be treated with a degreasing finish cleaner.
    Once the degreasing cleaner is dry, wipe the area down to make sure it is free from dust.
    Apply your clear coat as you would any other vehicle paint.
    Once My Clear Coat is Applied, Can it Be Waxed?
    Almost certainly. A clear coat is just another coat of paint, and applying a good quality wax on the top of a well-applied clear coat can act as another level of defense.
    If you’ve recently applied a clear coat, it’s best to leave your car for 4 to 6 weeks to give it time to fully cure. Once a decent time has passed, you’re free to buff your pride and joy to a gleaming shine as much as you want.
    It’s still worth checking the instruction of your favorite wax, because some waxes can be too high grain or rough for a thinner clear coat. Modern clear coat paints can be crazy thin, down to as little as 30 microns, (30 millionths of one centimeter) thick.
    It’s also worth being careful when applying the wax, as rubbing too hard or using a rougher cloth for a long time in one area can wear away a newer clear coat before it has time to properly treat and harden.
    What Can Cause My Clear Coat to Peel Off?
    No clear coat is going to last forever, and a sign that your clear coat needs replacing is peeling, either in one place or across the whole body of your vehicle. Here’s a few things that can cause a clear coat to start peeling:
    Environmental damage: This is one of the most common causes of a clear coat starting to peel. Ultraviolet light from the sun is an oxidizer, and over time it’s going to damage your clear coat by burning the external surface, making it rough and turning it white.There are two ways to deal with this. The first is to minimize sun exposure by keeping your car out of the sun when it’s not being used (another reason to clear out your garage.) The second is to wax your car often, which provides a second barrier against UV damage.
    Impacts from debris can cause a tiny chip in your clear coat, which can start to peel away from the rest of the car. If you have a single small peeling area, it’s possible that your paintwork was hit by something like a small pebble. If this is the case, you probably don’t need to replace the whole coat, and can just touch fix it.
    If you’ve recently received your car from the factory, and the clear coat is already starting to peel, there might have been an issue in the factory. The most common cause of this is the clear coat being applied a little too long after the main paintwork was finished.
    Where is the Best Place to Apply My Clear Coat?
    A clear coat, like all types of spray painting, is susceptible to environmental conditions. Excess heat or cold, humidity, or strong wind conditions can ruin the finish before you even apply the first layer of varnish. It’s best to apply your clear coat in a garage if possible, because that gives you the best control over your environment.
    If you don’t have access to a garage, wait for a day that has mild weather with low wind conditions. This is going to minimize the chances that you’re going to have issues when applying your clear coat. But this is still risky. No one can control the weather, and a sudden rain shower or burst of wind can spoil everything.
    Do I Have to Mask My Windows when Applying a Clear Coat?
    Yes. Just like when you’re painting bodywork with color paint, you will have to mask your windows to prevent the clear coat from getting onto the glass.
    Once you’ve covered your window with masking film, you’re free to coat your car with a clear coat. It’s always worth leaving the masking film in place until the clear coat is completely dry.
    If you do make a mistake and end up with clear somewhere on a window, it buffs easily out of glass with ultra-fine steel wool (0000 gauge is the recommended,) and some warm soapy water.
    Can I Still Use Car Washes After I’ve Treated My Car with a Clear Coat?
    This is a difficult question. Whilst car washes themselves aren’t going to damage your clear coat, if any dirt or grain is picked up during the process and ground against the bodywork, it will almost certainly cause damage to your clear coating.
    Modern car washes have systems built into them that pick up when the machinery has grabbed hold of a pebble or some dirt, so this is less of a problem with machine car washes than you might think.
    The problem is manual car washes. It’s much easier for a person with a cloth to pick up a tiny stone and carve a layer out of your clear coat without noticing. The worst part of this is that you might not notice until a few days later when it starts to peel away, and at that point there is nothing you can do except strip your paint down and start again.
    If you regularly take your car to a manual car wash, this is something you need to think about. As we’ve mentioned earlier, even using a cloth that’s too rough can take the surface off of a clear coat, so make sure that the people washing your car are using soft towels and mild waxes.
    Final Thought
    If you’ve got the tools, a clear coat that is applied using a spray-gun, like either of the SpeedoKote products in our list, are easily the best choice.
    It leads to a better finish and a tougher, more protective coating. While it takes a little more effort and set up, the results are more than worth it, and pay for themselves ten times over. More

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    Aston Martin DB5 Goldfinger Continuation: Fake Guns, But a Real DB5

    The biggest problem with the Aston Martin DB5 Goldfinger Continuation is always going to be one of discipline. The stoplight that stays red too long, the pedestrian who steps out without looking, the bully in the SUV that cuts you off—how long could you resist the temptation to deploy the twin .303-caliber machine-guns? Similarly, could you stave off the urge to deploy a smoke screen, or even an oil slick, in the face of a determined tailgater? What about the ability to instantly switch license plates before (or after) committing a moving traffic violation? “Me, officer? No, it must have been that other Silver Birch DB5.”
    Unlikely as it seems, we are suffering from a confusing surfeit of James Bond-inspired DB5 replicas. Back in February, we told you about the carbon-fiber-bodied stunt version that was created for the latest outing in the long-running franchise, the delayed No Time To Die. Despite looking almost identical and also being produced by Aston Martin, the DB5 Goldfinger is very different. It’s also way cooler—because of gadgets.

    View Photos

    Aston Martin

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    Speaking of gadgets, it has pretty much a full set. The heritage Aston Martin Works division has followed up its official limited-run recreations of the DB4 GT and DB4 GT Zagato with a similarly perfect replica of the iconic DB5 that was created for the third official James Bond film, 1964’s Goldfinger. This was the first time that Britain’s least-secret secret agent, then played by Sean Connery, got to drive an Aston Martin. Thanks to the vivid imagination of production designer Ken Adam, it was also the first time 007 drove a car packed with a variety of lethal weaponry and defenses, something that immediately became a hallmark for the long-running franchise.
    The DB5 in Bond’s arsenal for Goldfinger included twin Browning machine-guns that deployed from behind the front turn signals, rotating license plates, front and rear bumper rams, a bulletproof metal screen that rose up behind the rear window, dispensers for smokescreens and oil slicks, radar, and what seemed at the time like an impossible futuristic idea: an in-car telephone headset. The secret agent’s ride also had rotary tire slashers that seemed to somehow deploy from within its wire wheels and even, most famously, a passenger-side ejector seat that Connery uses to rid himself of a gun-wielding thug with exceptionally poor reactions.
    Recreating most of these features for regular use proved a serious technical challenge, as the gadgets used on the cars used for filming were theatrical props. Chris Corbould, the Oscar-winning special-effects designer who has now worked on 15 Bond films, led a team to create replicas of the original alterations. Aston then worked out how to package them within what is, beneath the modifications and gizmos, an exact copy of an early DB5.

    View Photos

    Aston Martin

    Some changes had to be made. The original replica machine-guns fired pyrotechnic blanks, which would have required reloading and which also sound exactly like real automatic gunfire—a characteristic that may have caused owners some legal difficulties. The Continuation’s barrels simulate fire with a mechanized recoil action and ultra-bright LEDs, but their loudspeaker soundtrack (taken straight from Goldfinger) is much more subdued than an actual Browning .303 would be. The oil slick is actually water, and the tire slashers come in a presentation case and can’t be fitted to the car, due to a corporate desire not to abet actual murder. And although the red button within the flip-open gear shifter is present, there isn’t an ejector seat on the passenger side, not even an under-seat cattle prod. (The asymmetric sunroof aperture is still present, though.) The gadgets can be operated by a control panel between the seats or, to better appreciate them when the car is stationary, through a remote control pack.
    Another small issue is the one indicated by the proviso that has been scrupulously added to every official release about the Goldfinger Continuation: “Please note, this car is not road legal.” The fact that we drove the prototype on a route made up of some of England’s more picturesque public highways indicates there is some wriggle room in that restriction. Two companies in Britain are already offering to officially register Aston’s earlier Continuation models for street use in Europe. But unless you can find and exploit some serious motor-vehicle-department loopholes, it seems unlikely you will be able to enjoy this particular DB5 in the United States on anything other than your expansive private estate.

    View Photos

    Aston Martin

    And that would seem to largely miss the point. Because while the gadgets are fun to play with, the core appeal of the Goldfinger is definitely the box-fresh DB5 that gets to haul them all around. This isn’t a restomod; beyond changes to accommodate the toys, nothing has been changed. So, the 4.0-liter straight-six engine breathes noisily through triple carburetors, the feeble ventilation system bringing the enticing smell of gasoline under gentle use. The steering is both unassisted and low geared, heavy around a parking lot but becoming almost too light at speed. And the chassis manages to be too hard and too soft, crashing over some apparently minor imperfections but delivering lurid body roll under even modest cornering loads. Which, you soon realize, are all the period-sized Avon Turbospeed tires are capable of handling. Small wonder Sean Connery had so much difficulty outrunning Goldfinger’s goons in their wimpy W120 Mercedes 180s.
    None of this matters in the slightest. This is an entirely authentic DB5 driving experience. The flaws both add character and prove originality. They also serve to emphasize some of the DB5’s other strengths. The seating position is high and requires the driver to squeeze around the vast wooden-rimmed steering wheel, but there can be few better automotive views than the panorama through the wraparound windscreen and over the voluptuous curves of the hood, a full set of chrome-bezeled Smiths instruments in the foreground. Performance is plenty brisk thanks to 290 horsepower and 288 pound-feet of torque, the big six feeling impressively strong in its broad midrange and generating more than enough acceleration to easily outpace modern traffic. The five-speed manual gearbox is another highlight. Aston got ZF to dust off the original drawings to produce a new batch. But the gearchanges are now crisper and better-feeling than the vague shift actions common at the time.

    View Photos

    Aston Martin

    Despite its devotion to speed, the DB5 is also a thoroughly nice way to travel not very quickly. Bond’s Aston comes from an era when cruising comfort and speed were prioritized over outright dynamic performance. At 60 mph with the electric windows lowered to dispel the heat being produced by the big engine, the cabin is remarkably calm, much more so than it would be in a modern alternative. This is one of those cars that delivers fun without breaking a single speed limit.
    The accusation of having more money than sense is normally applied as an insult, yet the implied equation merely states that cash needs to outplay caution. You would have to be obscenely rich to even consider spending more than the $3.5 million Aston will charge for a DB5 Goldfinger Continuation. But for those who are sufficiently loaded and have scratched every other automotive whim, buying James Bond’s Aston Martin seems to us like an entirely justified thing to do.

    Specifications

    Specifications
    2020 Aston Martin DB5 Goldfinger Continuation
    VEHICLE TYPE front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2+2-passenger, 2-door coupe
    BASE PRICE $3,523,677
    ENGINE TYPE DOHC 12-valve inline-6, aluminum block and head, 3×2 carburetorsDisplacement 244 in3, 3996 cm3Power 290 hp @ 5500 rpmTorque 288 lb-ft @ 3850 rpm
    TRANSMISSION 5-speed manual
    DIMENSIONS Wheelbase: 98.0 inLength: 180.2 inWidth: 66.6 inHeight: 53.1 inTrunk volume: 11 ft3Curb weight (C/D est): 3850 lb
    PERFORMANCE (C/D EST) 60 mph: 7.3 sec1/4 mile: 15.1 secTop speed: 145 mph
    EPA FUEL ECONOMY (C/D EST) Combined/city/highway: 14/12/18 mpg

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    Tested: Nissan 240SX Rekindles the Spirit of the Original Z-Car

    From the February 1989 issue of Car and Driver.
    There’s a sequence in Out of Africa in which Robert Redford buzzes a clearing in a biplane, thumps down, and taxis up to his startled paramour, Meryl Streep. Delighted, she marvels at his unexpected arrival at the controls of an airplane:
    “Where did you get it?”
    “Mombasa.”
    “When did you learn to fly?”
    “Yesterday.”

    DICK KELLEY

    Well, hedgehoppers, that’s Nissan. It, too, just learned to fly. Or relearned. From the Maxima (C/D September 1988) to the 300ZX (check here next month) to this 240SX, all of Nissan’s new fliers tower with talent—as its legendary 240Z did under the Datsun banner two decades ago.
    In 1969 the original Z-car, quick and light and looking right, captured the imaginations of the world’s sports-car fanatics. In a creative coup, Nissan perfectly conceived its two-seater coupe for its perfectly perceived market. The 240Z took flight with a near-ballistic rush that left its foes rocking in their wheel chocks.
    Yet from the mid-seventies to the mid-eighties, Nissan squandered its well-deserved dynamic reputation. Its sporty models grew glitzy, and its lesser models became mundane. Meanwhile, Honda blitzed new trails in excellence, Mazda licked the edges of the performance envelope, and Toyota hung on as Japan’s biggest car company. By 1988, Nissan had fallen from second place among imports in U.S. car sales. Luckily, new Nissan management had already begun to trim its lineup of flabby underpinnings and blasé bodywork.

    DICK KELLEY

    This is now, and the 240SX is Nissan. The new 240, though not directly related to the original, is also a car to lust after—unlike the 200SX it replaces. The 240’s trappings, from its voluptuous lines to its worthy innards, showcase Nissan’s reborn enthusiasm. A trip in the SX proves that, just as with the original 240Z, a flight in a well-trimmed craft brings its pilot great joy.
    The 240SX steps up to the needs of the 1990s with all the right stuff. It contains a new, naturally aspirated, twelve-valve, 2.4-liter four-cylinder instead of the 200SX’s naturally aspirated V-6 or four-cylinder turbo. The SX handsomely houses the new engine amid lighter weight and better handling; Nissan’s engineers may have relearned flying overnight, but they weren’t born yesterday.
    Nissan’s new managers cleverly insisted on retaining the 200SX’s basic rear-drive layout. The 240 makes the most of it with a new rear suspension. Its multilink design offers welcome self-stabilizing characteristics and precise handling—areas where the 200’s higher weight, narrower tracks, and less accomplished tires showed a weaker grip on theory and road alike. The new suspension design—similar to that finalized for the next 300ZX—easily provides almost any mix of agility and stability that Nissan cares to dial in. It delivers increasingly benign toe-in as cornering loads grow. It minimizes squat, lift, camber change, and jacking for flatter handling without stiffer springs and bushings. The 240’s front suspension retains the 200’s strut layout but includes more anti-dive.

    View Photos

    DICK KELLEY

    Anybody seeking joy in an automobile’s handling, meaning all of us with hands caressing the wheel and feet hot to trot for thrills underfoot, will find exceptional dynamics in the SX—perfect for a lively model that Nissan flatly proclaims a sports car.
    Like the old 240Z, the SX gives a terrain-hugging ride but masterful control. Like such recent fighter-tough, society-slick fliers as the BMW 750iL, the Peugeot 405Mi16, and the Plymouth Laser and Mitsubishi Eclipse turbos, the 240SX feels lighter than the scales say it should. It weighs 2798 pounds, but its deft controls and cheery bent for changing direction belie its mass, subtracting about 400 pounds from its feel.
    Until you take the controls, the only clues that times have changed at Nissan lie in the 240SX’s bodywork. It comes as either a fastback, the SE, or a blocky notchback, the XE. Nissan styling clinics show public preference split 50-50.

    DICK KELLEY

    Both cars wear four-wheel disc brakes, but the fastback will soon offer an ABS system. Our SX was equipped with a sport package, optional only on the fastback. It includes fore-and-aft spoilers, a firmer suspension, alloy wheels, and tires fattened from 195/60R-15 all-weather skins to 205/60HR-15 performance rubber with better dry grip. From the same option box: cruise control and a leather-wrapped shifter and wheel.
    Every 240 turns up with linear rack-and-pinion power steering. Nissan keeps communications between car and driver open and direct. No variable-assist or variable-ratio monkey-motion muddies the messages. Wound tight, the 240’s steering produces a snug 30.8-foot turning circle, good for superb tuckability in gridlock wars and parking snarls. Yet the guileless steering and almost unflappable chassis allow exhibitions of gripping behavioral magic. Blend this natural gift of grab with 0.83-g skidpad cornering, thanks to Bridgestone Potenza RE88s, and the 240SX helps you look like the most masterful conducteur de l’auto this side of Alain Prost.
    Nissan fits in the SX almost every control that a master driver, an advanced amateur, or a really rank beginner could want. The dash layout, simple and thor0ugh, surpasses most others in both its appearance and its function. Barely a stretch of the driver’s mind or muscle distracts from the driving. A digital speedometer with head-up display lurks on the options list, but bypass it for thefine standard analog array-whose largetach and speedometer dials dominate the central bulge of the instrument pod.Small coolant-temp and fuel-level gauges nest in the pod’s outer corners.They fill perfectly the viewing space framed by the sport wheel-whose horizontal spokes join the rim a bit too low for best hand placement. Embedded in the wheel are membrane buttons for de-cently coordinated cruise controls,though the spoke-mounted buttons prove less handy than, say, Honda’s hub-mounted buttons or the stalk-activated designs from BMW and Mercedes-Benz.

    DICK KELLEY

    The 240’s console houses climate controls capable of all but rainmaking. Stereo components fill most of the leftover space above the snickety-snick five-speed stick or the lever for the optional four-speed automatic (whose gear ratios drew mixed reviews). Our SX’s radio fronted a clean layout and large soft-touch but-tons, but it didn’t pick up signals cleanly.As for onboard music, an optional Sony compact-disc player stood in for an also-optional cassette deck, but after hearing the four speakers’ poor AM/FM sound we didn’t bother trying any CDs. Still, based on Nissan’s studious attention to finer details in our prototype SX, we suspect the sound system in production-line 240s will not fall on its woofers.
    The 240SX’s two-plus-two seating provides legroom for four if the two in back tape in at 24 inches head-to-toe and say “goo-goo” a lot. Up front, adults sit in a fashion more appropriate to front-cabin status. Despite supportive appearances, though, the deep buckets—even in their most upright position lean back quite far and offer so-so padding.Nissan, unlike most purveyors of automatic seatbelts, positions the inboard latches close beside the hips of front occupants, so you regain some support sacrificed by the lackluster seats. The backseat flops forward to add cargo length to the shallow hidden trunk, which stretches wider and longer than expected.
    Braking performance also stretches long for a sporting car. The pedal feels fine during hard road driving, but all-out stops from 70 mph–even with consider-able pedal modulation-chew up 195feet. We anticipate shorter stops from SEs fitted with the promised ABS system.
    The 2.4-liter SOHC four, with port fuel injection plus one exhaust and two intake valves per cylinder, growls out 140 hp. The 240SX equals the old V-6-powered 200SX’s 0-to-60-mph run of 8.6 seconds and zips a quarter-mile in
    16.4 seconds at 83 mph. But soon there-after it quits abruptly: Nissan fits a top-speed governor to keep down buyers’ car-insurance costs. The power stops Iu!r-thunk! at a claimed 112 mph-though our 240SX took a nose dive at a true 107mph. Otherwise, the SX’s willing engine and slick body felt capable of knocking off 120 mph, its chassis even more.(Word is out-heh-heh-that snipping one engine-parameter wire disconnects the annoying cutout.)
    Aiming to deliver 60,000 240SXs this year, Nissan pegs the base prices at$12,999 for the notchback and $13,199for the fastback-low bucks, but subject to added option costs. Moreover, several faster machines skulk on both sides of today’s exchange rates. Take the PlymouthLaser and Mitsubishi Eclipse turbo two-seaters: two seconds quicker from 0 to 50, about 35 mph faster up top, but barely costlier. Such machines may not keep a lid on running costs, and they will not bend into corners as rewardingly as the240SX, but you pays yer money and you takes yer turns as you please.
    A note of guidance: Nissan insiders hint that an unrepentantly quick 240SX is well on the road to final development. The 240’s layout already seems so good that we humbly suggest a 50-percent power boost. Once and for all, Nissan, are you men or mice, ninjas or nice?

    Specifications

    VEHICLE TYPE: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2 + 2 passenger, 3-door coupe
    PRICE AS TESTED: $16,108
    ENGINE TYPE: SOHC inline-4, iron block and aluminum head, port fuel injection
    Displacement: 146 cu in, 2389 ccPower: 140 hp @ 5600 rpmTorque: 152 lb-ft @ 4400 rpm
    TRANSMISSION: 5-speed manual
    DIMENSIONS:Wheelbase: 97.4 inLength: 178.0 inWidth: 66.5 in Height: 50.8 inCurb weight: 2798 lb
    C/D TEST RESULTS:Zero to 30 mph: 2.6 secZero to 60 mph: 8.6 secZero to 90 mph: 20.0 secTop gear, 30-50 mph: 11.1 secTop gear, 50-70 mph: 11.4 secStanding ¼-mile: 16.4 @ 83 mphTop speed: 107 mphBraking, 70-0 mph: 195 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.83 g
    FUEL ECONOMY:EPA city/highway: 20/26 mpgC/D observed: 23 mpg

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    Tested: 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP

    From the October 2005 issue of Car and Driver.
    The obvious part of the formula is obviously far from new: Cram a big ol’ V-8 in there, make the car go faster. Detroit has been doing this since the ’60s. But what may not be so obvious is that there’s a big asterisk to the formula when you start applying it to a front-wheel-drive car. The footnote reads something like this: “Put enough power through a front-drive system, and the driver will find himself turning right or left when he was planning on straight ahead.”

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    It’s called torque steer, and it’s the major limiting factor in front-drive performance cars. Despite various engineering advances, the problem persists in cars such as Acura’s otherwise superb TL, which sends 270 horsepower through a six-speed manual transmission to the front wheels via a helical limited-slip differential. But in the Grand Prix GXP, with more horsepower (303 at 5600 rpm) and a lot more torque (323 pound-feet at 4400 rpm), torque steer is not a serious issue. There are hints-a little tugging when the driver cracks the throttle at low speed-but no real wrestling.
    How’d they do that? By adopting a measure no one else has ever put into production. More in a minute. But first, another front-engine, front-drive problem, one that’s even more chronic than torque steer. With a design that puts all the heavy powertrain hardware up front, front-drive cars invariably have a pronounced forward weight bias, 64/36 percent in this case. As a consequence, the front wheels carry more than their fair share of the car’s mass, diluting the ability of the tires to transmit steering inputs. Worse, the front tires are also required to transmit power to the pavement, and all things being equal, the poor things just can’t handle their multiple assignments as well as the front tires of rear-drive cars. The result is understeer. The faster the driver herds the car into a turn, the more it wants to go straight.

    Highs: Mellow V-8 rumble, plentiful V-8 torque, excellent road manners.

    Pontiac’s solution to these two inherent front-drive directional control problems-understeer and torque steer-is unique. Instead of four tires of equal size, the GXP has a lot more rubber up front than at the rear: Bridgestone Potenza RE050As, 255/45-18 front, 225/50-18 rear.
    “We wanted a car to run with BMWs,” says program engineering manager Phil Minch. “But we were limited by the W-car architecture, in other words, by front-wheel drive.
    “The rear end never lets go when you have the same size tires all around. So we put our computer guys on it, and they came back with a recommendation for a smaller rear tire, to give the car better balance.”
    This is a radical departure from conventional wisdom, and the idea proved out in initial testing. But there was a nasty side effect: Increasing the contact patch at the front amplified torque steer. However, after experimenting with a number of different tires from a variety of manufacturers, Minch and company decided the problem lay in the tire’s construction-the way the plies were wrapped-and not the footprint. With sufficient application of power, the tire sidewalls distort, thus affecting directional stability.

    AARON KILEY

    Bridgestone, the supplier of choice, was initially reluctant to accept this theory, but when the GXP team achieved improved results using an off-the-shelf tire from another maker, the Bridgestone people got to work and developed a tire that delivered the desired performance.
    Other elements of the GXP package include Bilstein monotube front struts–a first for a front-drive GM car, according to Minch–and forged aluminum 18-inch wheels (8.0-inch-wide front, 7.0 rear), a stouter rear anti-roll bar, and a 0.4-inch reduction in static ride height versus the old GTP Competition Group.
    Still another challenge was fitting the 5.3-liter V-8 into an engine bay originally conceived for a transverse V-6. Although GM has flirted with this idea in the past–our man Csere drove a Chevy Lumina mule with V-8 power more than 10 years ago–it wasn’t as easy as simply greasing the thing up and cramming it in there. The powertrain troops had to develop a tidier version of the 5.3, achieved by creating a unique edition of the block with a shorter crank, a single-belt accessory drive, and a starter mounted on the transmission rather than on the engine block.
    The net of the redesign was a reduction in overall length of “about an inch,” according to Minch, which was enough.
    The transplant also required mods to the 4T65-E four-speed automatic to handle the extra torque and a three-point engine-mount system designed to damp the V-8’s torque rotation at full throttle.
    Pared down, the 5.3 V-8 met the assembly parameters–it installs from beneath–and provided an extra payoff at the scales. The all-aluminum V-8 is actually lighter than the supercharged iron-block 3.8-liter from the old GTP.

    Lows: Hints of torque steer, hefty curb weight, high steering effort at low speed.

    But how does it stack up in terms of Pontiac’s BMW objective? Let’s be clear. This ain’t a BMW. It’s not as agile as the sports-sedan pacesetters from Bavaria, and even though the unique tire stagger puts the GXP’s responses much closer to neutral, the Pontiac’s defining trait is still mild understeer. The four-speed TAPshift manumatic is better than some we’ve experienced, leaving upshift decisions totally in the hands of the driver, but the transmission offers only four speeds to play with. The engine’s torque band is so broad, and the transmission’s up- and downshifting so prompt in full automatic mode, that the driver can achieve pretty much the same levels of haste by simply putting the lever in D and leaving it there.
    That said, the GXP is not without some appealing traits. If it’s not quite BMW eager in transient response, it’s not too far off the curve, and if the GM Magnasteer II system is artificially heavy at low speeds, it’s quick (2.4 turns lock to lock) and accurate, with effort that lightens as velocities climb. The GXP turned in a ho-hum 0.82 g on the skidpad, but real-world grip feels better than that, and as Minch and his cohorts hoped, a driver can induce a little oversteer. And braking performance–174 feet from 70 mph, and zero fade–is on par for this class. The net is a forgiving and capable four-door, arguably the most entertaining sedan Pontiac has ever offered.
    There are some interior elements that enhance the entertainment. The front buckets, for example, are close to BMW territory in comfort and support, and the grippy steering wheel and nicely sized shift buttons enhance the sense of driver involvement. The head-up display is effective for keeping track of speed without glancing down, and the center-dash info display even includes a g-meter. Unfortunately, the latter will only deliver its readings–accel, decel, and lateral–when the car is stopped. Thus, the driver can only see the peak numbers achieved during his most recent stretch of road, rather than what’s going on in real time. Minch admits the GXP team made the mistake of checking with the liability lawyers before programming the g-meter display.

    The Verdict: A cool idea that would have been even cooler a decade earlier.

    An intriguing footnote to this front-drive breakthrough is that it won’t be immediately applied to other GM offerings. The 2006 Chevy Impala SS, for example, gets the 5.3-liter V-8, but the package will use equal-size tires all around and won’t have the Bilsteins.
    With an as-tested price of $31,135 (base, $29,995), the GXP is on a more or less equal price footing with some compelling competitors-the Acura TL, the BMW 325i, the Infiniti G35. And that adds up to a tough sell. But this is GM, remember, the discount leader. We checked the company’s latest sales ploy-everybody gets the GM employee discount-and came up with a GXP base of $24,696. At that price, this good-looking all-American is tough to resist.
    Counterpoint
    Here is a car that depicts the difference between soccer and football, between Peter Pan and Terry Bradshaw. The GXP has brute force that can be summoned instantly, a pugnacious snarl, and a chassis that didn’t go to Harvard. Very American, and very likable in a roughhouse, bawdy sort of way. If you wear your baseball cap backward, this Bud’s for you. Look for owners to drive by in the hip-hop position, heads behind the B-pillar. And yet the GXP corners and handles well, isn’t overly teched up like the Euros, looks bad-ass in black, and the price is right. It’s one of the most memorable sporting American sedans I’ve driven in a gawdawful long time. —Steve Spence
    Skeptical is not a strong enough word to describe the brain waves circulating after taking in the GXP’s spec sheet: 303 horsepower driving which wheels, you say? And a four-speed automatic? A taller final drive actually makes the GXP civilized and not the supreme burnout machine I expected. This V-8 makes nothing but good noises and lots of torque, but how does gearing a car to go over 100 mph in second gear make sense? Come on, a closely spaced six-speed could have smoked the porky Hemi Charger. Five years ago, I think Pontiac would have been on to something. Nowadays, the similarly priced Charger R/T seems like a no-brainer. —Dave VanderWerp
    In the early ’90s, I drove an experimental Chevy Lumina whose front wheels were powered by a Chevy V-8. I found it to be splendid. At long last GM has put that concept on sale with this GXP, and it still works. As it has for decades, the V-8 delivers effortless performance to this front-driver, and the GXP copes gracefully with the power. One reason is front tires that are larger than the rears. This makes sense, given that the front tires must steer and propel the car while carrying 76-percent more weight than the rears do. There’s still a whiff of clumsiness in this large, old platform, but if you crave V-8 power at a reasonable price, the GXP is worth a look. —Csaba Csere

    Specifications

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    Tested: 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX

    From the May 2005 issue of Car and Driver.
    Japanese love a good obento, which is a select assortment of traditional delicacies served in a bento box, a compartmentalized tray with high walls to prevent intermingling of foodstuffs. Perhaps that’s why you can’t buy the same feisty Mitsubishi Colt Turbo hatchback in both Europe and Japan, or the nifty six-passenger Mitsubishi Grandis wagon in the U.S. Intermingling has risky consequences. It’s bad obento.

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    At least there’s the Lancer Evolution, which Mitsubishi spreads like sinus-clearing wasabi across the world to spice up its lackluster image. For 2006, the Lancer Evolution’s generational odometer rolls over from the current Evo VIII, on sale since 2003, to the Evo IX. Accordingly, this rigid, noisy, spartan, all-wheel-drive son-of-a-rally-car gets new front and rear bumpers, aero tweaks, nattier seats, and lighter alloy wheels. And along with that it gets a 10-hp boost to 286, mostly from a new-to-Evo variable-valve-timing system.
    Timing is everything, as we discovered with our own test gear strapped onto a six-speed Evo IX MR at Mitsubishi’s Okazaki track. It’s a postage stamp of grass and asphalt ribbons enveloped by the dense suburbs near Nagoya, Japan, and home to Evo development since the Evo II in 1992. With the Evo IX MR, we saw 60 mph in 4.6 seconds and the quarter-mile in 13.4 seconds at 104 mph, the fleetest sprinting we’ve garnered from any stock Evo.

    View Photos

    Oh, but you were expecting more than new bumpers and 10 added horses for the Evo IX? The name is “Evolution,” after all, and it is indeed evolving toward an all-new Evo X set to arrive late in 2007. That would be shortly after the debut of a redesigned Lancer sedan on a new platform dubbed GS.
    Meanwhile, be content with the same three Evo flavors as before-the trim-stripped RS and the base Evo, both with five-speed manuals, plus the six-speed Evo MR with Bilstein shocks and forged BBS wheels. We’re told to expect a $500 bump of the current base prices (starting at $29,074 for the RS) when pricing is announced for the September on-sale date.
    Inside are aluminum pedals (except in the RS) and redesigned seats. A faux-carbon-fiber panel adorns the dash. Cloth is gone; pseudo-suede center panels are now bordered by leather bolsters. All-leather seats are an option.

    View Photos

    Outside, a new front bumper fights aerodynamic lift with an available chin spoiler that increases the low-pressure zone under the nose. Two oval nostrils in the bumper help the intercooler by ramming fresh air around its input and output pipes. In back, the carbon-fiber airfoil can be had with a Gurney flap, a thin wing extension that increases downforce to the rear.

    Specifications

    SPECIFICATIONS
    2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX
    VEHICLE TYPEFront-engine, 4-wheel-drive, 5-passenger, 4-door sedan
    PRICE AS TESTED $35,700 (estimated base price: $35,700)
    ENGINE TYPE Turbocharged and intercooled DOHC 16-valve inline-4, iron block and aluminum head, port fuel injectionDisplacement: 122 in3, 1997 cm3Power: 286 hp @ 6500 rpmTorque: 289 lb-ft @ 3500 rpm
    TRANSMISSION 6-speed manual
    DIMENSIONSWheelbase: 103.3 inLength: 178.5 inWidth: 69.7 inHeight: 57.1 inCurb weight: 3300 lb
    C/D TEST RESULTSZero to 60 mph: 4.6 secZero to 100 mph: 11.9 secStanding ¼-mile: 13.4 sec @ 104 mphBraking 70-0 mph: 155 ft
    FUEL ECONOMYEPA fuel economy, city driving: 19 mpg

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    Tested: 2007 Mercedes-Benz CLS63 AMG

    From the October 2006 issue of Car and Driver.
    There’s been a lot of talk on internet chatrooms lately about whether the new AMG 6.2-liter naturally aspirated V-8 engine is an improvement over the supercharged 5.4-liter V-8 that was an AMG staple—particularly, if the new car is quicker or slower off the mark. Well, the answer is yes and no, at least on the evidence of the CLS63 AMG that we have been stylin’ in of late. The 6.2-liter V-8 makes 507 horsepower in the CLS, up from 469 hp in the old CLS55 AMG. Torque is down, though, from 516 pound-feet to 465 lb-ft. More power usually results in better top-end performance, whereas more torque normally means quicker mid-range and off-the-line acceleration.

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    To a certain extent, that’s what our numbers show. The CLS63 gets to 60 mph from rest in a blistering 4.1 seconds, a tenth quicker than the CLS55, but is identical otherwise up to 120 mph and shares a 12.6-second quarter-mile time. The 30-to-50 and 50-to-70-mph figures show the benefits of the supercharged motor’s fatter torque curve (2.2 and 2.5 seconds, respectively, compared with 2.5 and 3.1 for the CLS63), while the extra top-end grunt of the 63 comes into play above 120 mph. By 150 mph, the CLS63 is ahead by almost a second and a half.
    So, apart from marginally better performance away from a stop light and in go-to-jail-fast territory, what are the benefits of the new engine? Well, it sounds absolutely fantastic, especially as it nears the 7200-rpm redline. (Yeah, that’s right: a 6.2 liter V-8 that spins past seven grand.) The loud, guttural growl is a bit too intoxicating, because the desire to hear a blaring soundtrack makes it all too easy to stray into triple-digit temptation. It really does pickup and go past 100 mph.
    The seven-speed automatic transmission is as smooth as a luxury-car salesperson, not to say that the old five-speeder was bad. More important, manual shifting is now effected by a pair of paddles on the back of the steering wheel—right for upshifts, left for down—in place of the buttons in the CLS55.
    Other important mechanical changes are fitment of AMG’s new sport suspension and revised brakes. The vented and cross-drilled front rotors are now 14.2 inches in diameter (up from 14.0 inches) and the front calipers have six instead of eight pistons. At the back, there are 13.0-inch-diameter discs and four-piston calipers. The AMG suspension is a recalibrated version of Mercedes’ Airmatic air-spring setup, which works in conjunction with the so-called Adaptive Damping System. Just like the system in the E-class, it has driver selectable settings, none of which are perfect. The sportiest setting beats you up over bad pavement and the comfiest one doesn’t offer enough body control.
    Still, the CLS63 has lots of grip, decent steering, and is very entertaining once the traction control is turned off and the throttle is mashed. It isn’t quite as sweet a chassis as a BMW M5’s, but the CLS has the advantage of a fine automatic transmission in place of the M5’s clunky Sequential Manual Gearbox and a torquier, more compelling engine. Only serious AMG-heads are going to be able to spot the difference between this one and the CLS55. Discreet 6.3 AMG badges on the flanks and tail are the only real external clues, while there is a new instrument cluster and a fabulous, race-car-like steering wheel. Otherwise, the gorgeous CLS shape and lush interior remain. Why mess with success?
    The only real drawback of this car is the sticker: $95,575 base, with an as-tested price of $100,805. It’s a lot of dough, sure, but the combination of the CLS shape and the rocking new AMG powertrain make this is a sweet ride for the whiz-kids of this world.

    Specifications

    SPECIFICATIONS
    2007 Mercedes-Benz CLS63 AMG
    VEHICLE TYPE Front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 4-passenger, 4-door sedan
    PRICE AS TESTED $100,805 (base price: $95,575)
    ENGINE TYPE DOHC 32-valve V-8, aluminum block and heads, port fuel injectionDisplacement: 379 in3, 6208 cm3Power (SAE net): 507 bhp @ 6800 rpmTorque (SAE net): 465 lb-ft @ 5200 rpm
    TRANSMISSION 7-speed automatic with manumatic shifting
    DIMENSIONSWheelbase: 112.4 inLength: 194.0 inWidth: 73.7 inHeight: 54.7 inCurb weight: 4366 lb
    C/D TEST RESULTSZero to 60 mph: 4.1 secZero to 100 mph: 9.8 secZero to 150 mph: 23.5 secStreet start, 5-60 mph: 4.4 secStanding ¼-mile: 12.6 sec @ 114 mphTop speed (governor limited): 158 mphBraking, 70-0 mph: 163 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.87 g
    FUEL ECONOMYEPA fuel economy, city/highway: 13/20 mpgC/D-observed fuel economy: 13 mpg

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    Tested: 2003 Mercedes-Benz SL55 AMG

    From the November 2002 issue of Car and Driver.
    A funny thing happened at the 1934 Eifelrennen race at the Nürburgring. Alfred Neubauer, the Zeppelinesque chief of the Mercedes team, directed his crew to grind off all the bone-white paint that distinguished the Benz factory racers.

    2003 Mercedes-Benz SL55 AMG First Drive

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    Hence the origin of silver as the German color for racing. But that’s not the point. Neubauer’s motive had nothing to do with aesthetics. In those days, the competition weight regs specified a maximum limit, rather than a minimum. Neubauer’s paint trick was designed to get the cars down below the max. The rulemakers set an upper limit, because they saw weight as a dynamic asset. A bigger car would have a bigger engine, and thus go faster. The objective was to slow the cars down. Ha.
    This story came to mind early in our first lap of Wisconsin’s Road America racetrack in the new Mercedes SL55 AMG roadster. The Neubauer parable flickered in my mind’s eye like a prewar movie as I hit the rumble strips on the exit of Turn Five and started up the hill. Wow. Was ist los?
    See, getting out there onto the exit curbing was not the intent upon entering the turn. First lap in a new car—and an expensive one at that—lots of power, cold tires, etc. Easy does it. But when the throttle went down at the apex, the car was across the track and onto that alligator curbing before you could say, “Götterdämmerung!”

    Highs: Prodigious thrust, execujet style, execujet comfort.

    This little tableau, reinforced by other examples of mass exerting its relentless influence, emerged as the overriding impression of an all-too-brief Road America experience, laid on by Mercedes-Benz as the finale of its North American SL55 AMG press launch. Given the car’s capabilities, it was certainly the right venue—long straights punctuated by hard braking and generally uncomplicated turns. No esses, no tricky transitions. Moreover, Mercedes had enlisted a platoon of pro road racers to demonstrate those capabilities as dramatically as possible. The demos came after we ordinary mortals had done a few laps, and with a light rain at the end of the session, this became quite dramatic, indeed.
    But as we strapped on a new SL55 to head home, the nagging question persisted: What’s up with all this avoirdupois? The standard SL500 we tested last April was certainly no wraith. When the readouts on the C/D scales finally settled, the tally for that one stood at a resounding 4172 pounds. That’s SUV territory, but even so, the AMG version is heftier: 4411 pounds. What’s the deal? Weight is the enemy. These guys must know that.
    Make no mistake, this is a formidable automobile, Moby Dick mass notwithstanding. Check the motivational specs: 493 horsepower at 6100 rpm, 516 pound-feet of torque manifesting itself along a wonderfully flat curve from 2650 to 4500 rpm. It’s the most potent Benz ever offered in North America, according to the manufacturer, and also the quickest factory Benz we’ve ever tested: 0 to 60 in 4.5 seconds, 0 to 100 in 10.9, the quarter-mile in 13 seconds flat at 110 mph.
    In contrast, the SL500 tested in our April issue hit 60 mph in 5.8 seconds, 100 in 14.5, and covered the quarter in 14.3 seconds at 99 mph. The disparities seem minor on paper, but the real-world distinctions are dramatic. Crack the throttle, and this posh heavyweight lunges forward like a shark that’s been invited to nibble a chunk of Britney Spears. It dissects traffic like a superbike and exudes a sense of mechanical resentment when a soulless microchip arrests the rush at 156 mph.

    There’s a corollary to the traffic-sorting prowess, incidentally. This car seems to stir up civilians like few others, and not always in a delighted (read “Lookit that!”) way. All too often we’d cruise past some joker only to find him angrily attached to the Benz’s rear bumper, somehow offended at being overtaken. We believe a similar emotion animated the people who divided Marie Antoinette into two unequal portions in 1793, and we furnish this observation as a public service to potential buyers: Caveat emptor.
    But we were discussing the SL55’s power and its increased mass, and in fact the two are directly related. There is, for example, the weight of the AMG car’s supercharger and its air-to-water intercooler, the latter designed with its own separate supply of fluid. Made by IHI, the belt-driven supercharger is of the Lysholm type, with a Teflon-coated screw-style impeller delivering boost up to 11.6 psi. Quietly, too. No supercharger whine.
    Although this is basically the same SOHC 24-valve aluminum V-8 used in the SL500, there are significant differences. The hand-assembled AMG version is stroked from 84 millimeters to 92, increasing displacement from 4966cc to 5439, and the forged aluminum pistons drop the compression ratio from 10.0:1 to 9:0:1, an anti-detonation measure. There are heavy-duty bearings with cross-bolted mains at the bottom end, plus a new sump and a more powerful oil pump. Top-end mods include double valve springs, reprofiled cams, and bigger intake and exhaust plumbing.
    The supercharged eight feeds its power to a five-speed automatic transmission that incorporates an updated edition of the Mercedes SpeedShift manumatic. This one offers three modes—normal, winter, and manual. Its basic function is essentially the same as Chrysler’s AutoStick: Waggle the lever, and you can shift up or down, or operate in full automatic mode. Unlike AutoStick, the manual mode allows shifting via rocker switches mounted on the backs of the steering-wheel spokes. And unlike the other modes, selecting manual allows the driver to hold a particular gear right up to the rev limiter.

    Lows: Full-size-SUV curb weight.

    Consistent with the law of opposite and equal reactions—that which goes must stop—there’s also extra mass associated with the SL55’s braking apparatus. The rotors are big enough to double as manhole covers—14.2 by 1.3 inches in front, 13.0 by 0.9 in the rear, vented and cross-drilled at both ends. The diameters are bigger than the garden-variety SL’s, and the fronts are squeezed by eight-piston calipers.
    Oddly enough, braking distances failed to match those recorded by the SL500, and by a bunch: 155 feet from 70 mph for the SL500, 175 for the SL55. Moreover, although we didn’t record any brake fade during our testing, we did encounter a squishy pedal while lapping Road America, even with all the electronic enhancements (Sensotronic Brake Control) incorporated into this system.
    Grip doesn’t seem to be the problem. Although the SL55’s footprints are essentially the same as the SL500’s—the only difference is a slightly lower rear-tire profile (285/35ZR-18 versus 285/40ZR-18)—the AMG edition’s Pirelli P Zeros pulled a higher skidpad number: 0.91 g versus 0.88. So the SL55’s added mass seems the most likely braking-distance culprit.
    Which brings us to this car’s all-around dynamics. Mercedes refers to its “catlike handling reflexes,” which is true—if you envision a cat the size of a Siberian tiger. The key to the SL55’s level cornering attitudes is the corporate Active Body Control electro-mechano-hydraulic almost-active suspension, recalibrated in this application for firmer responses without compromising ride quality. Although this sophisticated system can’t erase weight—it’s always there, always tangible—it manages that weight amazingly well, whether the car is clawing the pavement in a fast sweeper or unkinking a set of switchbacks. This kind of activity is abetted by the SL55’s speed-sensitive rack-and-pinion steering, which seems to deliver a little more tactile information than the SL500’s system, and by the availability of all that torque for blasting off corners.

    The Verdict: Proof that heft and passion are not mutually exclusive.

    As you’d expect, the SL55 is posh-plus inside, with all the hedonistic goodies that distinguish the SL500, which is far from a torture chamber itself, plus some AMG fillips such as a sport steering wheel, aluminum interior trim, Alcantara suede atop the instrument binnacle and in the headliner, a superb 10-speaker audio system, silver-face AMG instruments with red needles, and, the most seductive interior element, deep leather-clad power bucket seats with serious torso bolsters, for those moments when the owner feels moved—probably rare—to rub up against the limits of adhesion.
    Why rare? Check the bottom line. With a base price of $118,295, including luxury and gas-guzzler taxes, the SL55 AMG starts $30,340 north of the SL500. Start adding extras such as Distronic auto-distancing cruise control ($2950), Parktronic proximity warning ($1035), the Panorama sunroof ($1800)—an interesting touch on a retractable hardtop convertible—and the tally escalates rapidly. All of which makes this an unlikely toy for young guys prone to red mist. The SL55 is an executive hot rod for folks with lots of disposable income and Kevlar-clad portfolios. So even though we wonder what this car could do if it shed about a thousand pounds, it’s probably irrelevant. Lose the sander, Herr Neubauer. Scraping the paint off this one ain’t gonna make much difference.
    Counterpoint
    Hmm, let’s see here. Supercar horsepower, a shape to die for, the trickest top in the land, and active suspension. Sounds like a study-hall dream car, and for the most part, it is. But why did Mercedes leave out an automatic-shifting manual gearbox? You know, the tranny you can get at the Ferrari or BMW store? For a slushbox, the SL’s automatic tranny is fine. But it’ll never provide the control or response that a manual tranny would. I can understand the omission in the standard SL, but the SL55 is supposed to be the supercar that packs the best of Mercedes’ vast engineering talent. Am I wrong to think a $123,000 car should have it all? —Larry Webster
    Behold the German Ferrari. We didn’t think those buttoned-down, left-brain Deutschers had it in ’em, but this latest AMG accurately captures the otherworldly rocket-propelled acceleration and Gravitron cornering effects and even some of the charming quirks of a small-line Italian exotic. What corporate engineer could okay white-on-white gauge legends, for example? Sure, they’re invisible most of the time, but they look so cool when you can see them. And the driver’s vanity-mirror lid that obscures the mirror’s overhead light — that’s to prove this is a serious sports car, not a boudoir, right? Message received, through all four bellowing exhaust tips. —Frank Markus
    A few years ago, I likened the Mercedes 500SL to a Duesenberg SJ because it occupied a nexus of performance, style, and luxury that seemed beyond modern, more narrowly focused cars. This new SL55 takes that SL concept into overdrive. Motivated by its velvety and vigorous blown V-8, the SL55 doesn’t just accelerate from one speed to another, it gobbles velocity in leaps and lunges. Despite its fleetness, this SL feels as substantial as any convertible on the market. And its swashbuckling styling, bolstered by AMG musculature, instantly conveys its patrician bloodlines to even the densest bystanders. What’s not to like about this 21st-century Duesenberg? —Csaba Csere
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