Reviews

You know the feeling: the temperature is nearing triple digits and the leather seat in your vehicle burns your legs as you sit down. Or, the temperature is just below freezing, and the seat is about to turn you into a block of ice.
There’s no need to feel the extremes so intensely in your vehicle. Sheepskin is the perfect option because it keeps you cool in the summer and warm in the winter. It also makes your car look fancy and protects your seats.
Finding the best seat cover can be difficult, so we’ve scoured the Internet for the best sheepskin seat covers so you don’t have to.

How to Pick the Right Sheepskin Seat Cover
Not all sheepskin is the same, and not every seat cover is made in the same way. The following factors should be considered when you’re looking to purchase a seat cover.
Type of Sheepskin
Most seat covers say they are made of Australian sheepskin. This sheepskin is most likely from Merino sheep since they are the most popular breed. Merino wool is soft, thick, and long and is frequently used in clothing.
Other Australian breeds include:
Corriedale: Bred from Merino sheep, this wool isn’t as soft and is frequently used for felting.
Polwarth: Also bred from Merino sheep, this breed produces very thick wool.
Coopworth: This wool is the thickest of the Australian sheep breeds and doesn’t come from the Merino sheep family.
Wool is sometimes mixed, and since many breeds came from the Merino, it can be difficult to pinpoint exactly what kind of wool was used. Australian sheep breeds have long and slightly curly hair, so you can expect the products to be thick and fluffy.
Wool lengths vary from breed to breed. Many seat covers are made with long-haired sheepskin since they came from Australian breeds. That said, you will be able to find covers that are made with shorter wool lengths. There isn’t much of a difference between long and short hair, so you can choose whichever you prefer.
Compatibility with Airbags
In 2009, side airbag requirements went into place which resulted in all our new vehicles having airbags in the sides of seats or the side of the vehicle (or both). Some companies voluntarily put side airbags into vehicles as early as the 1990s, but it wasn’t too common.
Seat covers pose a potential risk to your safety if the side airbag is located in your seat. The airbags deploy out of the seat, and if they’re covered up, they won’t be able to extend all the way.
Fortunately, many seat covers are made with side airbags in mind. You can find seat covers that don’t have sides, so they’re completely safe to use. You can also find covers that wrap around the seat but have slits cut in the sides to allow the airbag to deploy.
Seat Compatibility
Most seat covers are listed as universal, claiming that they can fit on any seat. This isn’t always true, of course. Many seats are made the same way, but there’s still enough variation that voids the statement “one size fits all.”
Before you purchase a seat cover, measure every part of the chair and compare them to the measurements of the seat cover you want to purchase. You might be able to squeeze a small cover onto your chair, but you might speed up the wear and tear process by doing so since it will stay stretched and tight. A cover that’s too big will look saggy and might move around too much.
Features like headrests, seatbelts, and armrests can cause a universal seat cover to not fit your seat. Most seat covers are made for seats that have detachable headrests and seat belts that aren’t attached to the chair.
Installation
Before you choose a seat cover, look at what attachments the seat cover uses to secure it onto the seat and make sure it will work with your chair. Some covers use bands that go around the seat, velcro flaps, or straps that fit through the opening between the seat cushion and the back of the chair.
Your chair’s design might not be compatible with the seat cover, so try to determine if you can make it work for your chair. If you think you’ll need to make modifications, you’re better off waiting until you find a cover that will fit your seat. We talk about this in each review so you can determine if it’s good for you.
Quality
The quality of a sheepskin seat cover can be determined by a few things:
Tanning process: Improper tanning of the hide will lead to an oily feel on the wool and might damage your seat.
Stitching: A high-quality seat cover will be made with a single pelt of sheepskin, so there should be very few stitches and seams. There should only be stitches where additional material and straps are connected.
Softness: High-quality sheepskin is soft. If it’s rough, it likely wasn’t tanned properly or it was treated with too many chemicals.
Density and length: Low-quality sheepskin will look saggy because the hairs aren’t densely packed together. The hairs of a good sheepskin should stand up straight and tall.
Natural color: Good sheepskin can be dyed, but that might affect their quality even if it’s only slightly. Quality pelts are usually off-white or whatever the color of the sheep was.
Imperfections: The leather shouldn’t have any holes or cracks.
Scent: There shouldn’t be any kind of odor, especially a chemical odor. Low-quality tanning processes tend to smell more chemically than the high-quality kind.
Now that you have an idea about materials, seat compatibility, installation, and the marks of quality you’re looking for, we’ll discuss each of these factors in our 10 reviews of great sheepskin covers.

Top 10 Best Sheepskin Seat Covers 2020

1. Best Overall Sheepskin Seat Cover: Aegis Black Luxury Australian Sheepskin Wrap Seat Cover

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Why we like it: The hair on this seat cover isn’t too long or too short and the sides are open so there’s room for airbags to pop out. It’s a well-rounded product that will suit most people’s needs.
Editor’s Rating:

This Aegis sheepskin seat cover is a basic style of seat cover. It isn’t excessively fluffy and doesn’t offer storage space, but it does offer high quality at an acceptable price. If you’re looking for a great product at a good price, this is the one to look at.
Type of Sheepskin
This car seat cover is made of Australian sheepskin. The hair is cut short to just an inch and is super dense, so it will feel soft and thick. The material that goes under the seat to keep it in place is faux, but everything on top is genuine.
Airbag Compatibility
This cover doesn’t have sides on it, so you don’t have to worry about side airbags not working correctly. This also means it can fit on a wide variety of seats.
Installation
Since it doesn’t completely wrap around the seat, it’s super easy to put into place. It has straps with buckles just like a children’s car seat or backpack has. You simply place the cover over the seat, wrap the straps around as you need them, and click it into place.
It also has a hook that goes in the crease between the cushion and the back of the seat. This keeps the cover in place and will prevent it from bunching up. If your seat isn’t detached between the cushion and the back, you might not be able to get this part to work properly.
Quality
The seat cover is made from one pelt, so there are very few seams meaning it will hold up for quite some time. It’s thick, doesn’t shed, and doesn’t have a bad odor, so you can tell it’s made from a high-quality pelt.

Cons

Might not work with low riding seats
No pockets

2. Best Premium Sheepskin Seat Cover: Eurow Luxury Sheepskin Seat Cover XL

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Why we like it: This seat cover is made to fit larger seats and will fit all the way around them. You don’t have to settle for ill-fitting seat covers on your larger chairs.
Editor’s Rating:

Many universal seat covers don’t fit over larger seats that are in SUVs and pickup trucks. If you’re looking for something that will fit your larger-sized chairs, this is the right product for you.
It comes with a convenient pocket on the back to store your goodies in. Installation doesn’t require any tools, but it might be difficult to maneuver since all the hooks attach at the bottom.
Since the cover wraps around the entire seat, it won’t be compatible with collapsible armrests or seat belts that are located on the seat.
Type of Sheepskin
The front of this seat cover is genuine Australian Merino sheepskin. The wool is cut down to about an inch thick. If you’re looking for something fluffy, this isn’t it, but it’s certainly plush and soft.
The back and underside of the cover are made of an acrylic material that matches the front side of it. This is so it will stretch as it needs to so it can properly fit your chair. The faux material will do the stretching, not the sheepskin.
Airbag Compatibility
The seat cover wraps around the front, back, and sides of the seat. While this style is usually a cause for concern about safety, Eurow designed this cover with an opening on the sides to accommodate the airbag. It’ll be able to pop out as intended, so you don’t have to worry about compromising your safety just to have a comfortable chair.
Installation
Installation might be a bit tricky for this one. It’s easy to slide the cover over the seat, but it’s attaching all the hooks that might cause problems. It has six elastic straps with hooks and a ring that the hooks attach onto. It sounds simple enough, but you have to do this underneath the chair. If you’re able to detach your chair, it’ll be an easier process.
Quality
Merino sheepskin is a sheepskin that’s highly sought after because it’s soft and durable. The design has several seams on it that have the potential to break and means it’s made from more than one pelt. More than one pelt isn’t a bad thing, but it does mean that there could be slight variations between panels on the product.

Pros

Openings for airbags to pop out
Storage pocket on the back
Made of Merino sheepskin that’s known for being super soft

Cons

Might be difficult to install
Not made from one single pelt

3. Best Budget Sheepskin Seat Cover: Sisha Sheepskin Seat Cushion Cover

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Why we like it: Sheepskin products are usually a slight investment, but this cushion cover allows you to enjoy some sheepskin in your car for only a fraction of the price.
Editor’s Rating:

If you want a sheepskin seat cover but don’t want to spend a lot of money on it, a simple cushion will do the trick. Since it’s just the bottom cushion that sits on top of the seat, it can pretty much fit in any car seat. It’ll save your legs from the hot or cold seat, but of course, your back won’t receive any benefits.
Type of Sheepskin
This seat cover is made with long-haired Australian sheepskin. It’s incredibly soft and fuzzy so it’ll be sure to keep you warm in the winter. Since sheepskin regulates body temperature, the long hair won’t be a problem in the middle of summer.
Airbag Compatibility
This cover is completely airbag-friendly since it’s only a partial cover that goes on top of the cushion of your chair.
Installation
The cover has straps on the bottom that wraps underneath the seat and hook together. The straps are meant to go around the front and back of the seat, but since the cover is a square, you could probably wrap it around the sides of the seat if you really wanted to.
Going underneath car seats is usually a difficult task, so while it may be simple to install, it might be easier to have someone help you.
Quality
Despite the low price, this seat cover is of great quality. It’s made from a single pelt so there aren’t many seams to worry about. The pink seat cover being reviewed is clearly dyed, so the quality might not be the same as a natural-colored seat cover since dyes can affect softness.

Pros

Budget-friendly
Won’t interfere with side airbags
Will fit most seats

Cons

Not a full seat cover
Might need a second person to make installation easier

4. Best Sheepskin Seat Cover with Storage: Leader Genuine Sheepskin Seat Covers

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Why we like it: You can keep all your stuff handy with this seat cover. It has a pocket in the back for convenient storage and a small pocket in the front so you can keep your phone nearby.
Editor’s Rating:

Seat covers can be annoying because they cover up the storage that’s already on your chair. Fortunately, this Leader sheepskin cover has storage built into it so you don’t have to sacrifice much-needed space. You can’t use the airbags with this cover, so this might be a safety concern if you have a vehicle with side airbags.
Type of Sheepskin
The front of this seat cover is made of Australian Merino sheepskin. The hair is short so it might not be as plush as you were hoping for, but it’s still thick and soft.
The back and sides of the cover are acrylic faux sheepskin. There might be a color variation between the faux and the real sheepskin.
Airbag Compatibility
This cover isn’t compatible with side airbags that are in the seat. They won’t be able to pop out since they’ll be trapped in the seat cover. Side airbags became a requirement in 2009, so this cover won’t work with newer models of vehicles.
Installation
Installation is fairly easy for this seat cover. It slips over the chair and elastic straps will hold it in place at the bottom. This cover should be able to fit most seats, but you’ll need a detachable headrest for this seat cover to fit properly.
Quality
Merino sheepskin is super soft, so you can expect it to be high quality on the front. There are many seams, so it was made of more than one pelt, so there might be some variation between panels.
The acrylic faux sheepskin on the back and sides are much lower quality than the sheepskin. It doesn’t look the same and has a completely different texture than the sheepskin does. The faux part is what will be seen by your passengers, so you might not want to choose this one if that will bother you.

Pros

Large back pocket and small front pocket
Made of super-soft Merino sheepskin
Fits most seats

Cons

Not compatible with side airbags
Must have a detachable headrest for it to fit properly

5. Best Sheepskin Seat Cover for Side Airbags: Eurow Genuine Australian Sheepskin Sideless Seat Cover

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Why we like it: This seat cover is perfect for seats with side airbags because it doesn’t have side panels. It’s versatile and will fit on almost every seat without compromising your safety.
Editor’s Rating:

This seat cover is perfect if you need a seat cover that doesn’t restrict the side airbags. It doesn’t wrap around the seat with fabric, but instead uses straps that won’t get in the way. Only the bottom part of the cover has fabric that wraps around the seat so it shouldn’t take but a few minutes to install.
Type of Sheepskin
This cover is made of Australian sheepskin with acrylic faux sheepskin at the bottom. The hair is short and isn’t as plush as other seat covers on this list, but it’s still thick enough to be comfortable.
Airbag Compatibility
Since this cover doesn’t have sides to it, it’s completely compatible with side airbags. The straps that keep the cover in place won’t interfere with the airbags, either. The airbags will be able to pop out easily and won’t get stuck behind the cover.
Installation
Installing this cover is simple and should only take a few minutes. The bottom has faux sheepskin that wraps around the bottom of the seat with a strap to secure it in place. There are two small straps with hooks that go between the cushion and the back of the seat to prevent the cover from sliding around.
There’s a strap that goes across the back of the seat and straps that go around the headrest. The straps will be easier to work with if the headrest is detachable, but if it’s not, you should still be able to wrap them around a fixed headrest to secure the cover into place.
Quality
This cover is made from one pelt. The only seams are on the sides and where the genuine sheepskin attaches to the acrylic sheepskin. The color of the sheepskin is natural which means the quality wasn’t lowered by harsh dyes.
The only downside to this product is that the straps are known to break pretty easily. When you install this cover, try to keep the straps a little loose so they won’t get too tight when you sit down. They’re more prone to breaking when pressure is applied, so try not to put unnecessary pressure on them by pulling them too tight.

Pros

Will fit most car seats
Won’t interfere with airbags
Doesn’t take long to install

Cons

Straps can be pretty flimsy

6. Best Long-haired Sheepskin Seat Cover: Sisha Authentic Australia Sheepskin Car Seat Cover

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Why we like it: Long-haired sheepskin tends to feel cozier than short-haired and it has a fun look to it, too. If you like the look and feel of long-haired sheepskin, this is the best option for you.
Editor’s Rating:

This is another good seat cover that allows the side airbags to pop out. The sheepskin is only on the front, and the back is suede leather that’s attached with straps. The back has a convenient pocket and a pleated edge that makes it look high-end.
Type of Sheepskin
Long-haired Australian sheepskin is used for this product. The individual hairs are roughly 3.5 inches long, making this one of the lushest and fluffiest seat covers you can buy.
Airbag Compatibility
This seat cover works well with side airbags because the back is attached with straps, so the sides aren’t covered up. Airbags can easily eject without being obstructed, so this cover won’t cause any safety concerns.
Installation
This cover attaches with buckles on the headrest and on the back. A clip is used between the back of the seat and cushion to prevent the middle of the cover from moving around. The bottom of the cover uses a hook to hook underneath the chair. The hook can go onto any part of the chair, so you can get it as loose or as tight as you want it.
If you don’t have a detachable headrest or a space between the cushion and back of the seat, this will be a bit more difficult to install and you might not be able to fit it as intended.
Quality
The cover is made from one sheepskin pelt, so you can expect consistent coloring and quality throughout the entire cover. The back panel is made of suede leather so it’s durable and can withstand typical wear and tear.

Pros

Long and fluffy fur that’s incredibly soft
Buckles and hooks make it easy to install
Straps won’t cover the airbags on the side of the seat

Cons

Might not fit correctly if the seat headrest is attached

7. Best Fluffy Sheepskin Seat Cover: IMQOQ Sheepskin Fur Car Seat Covers

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Why we like it: The sheepskin on this cover is incredibly fluffy and will make the interior of your vehicle stand out for sure. It’s not fluffy all over, so it will feel like you’ve sunken into it a bit and are surrounded by fluff.
Editor’s Rating:

There’s just something about extra fluffy seat covers that make you feel expensive. These covers should meet those expectations if that’s what you’re looking for. They’re a bit obnoxious, but we mean that in a good way.
One thing to note about these covers is that they’re not entirely genuine sheepskin. This product comes with two seat covers, so the price for each one comes out to a little cheaper than what the average single 100% sheepskin cover would be.
Type of Sheepskin
The long-haired parts of these covers are genuine sheepskin. The hairs measure about 3.5 inches but might be a little longer.
The short part in the middle is faux fur. It’s about a half-inch in length and covers the areas where you sit and lean on, as well as where the crease of the seat is.
Airbag Compatibility
These covers are perfect for chairs with side airbags because the front and back are connected with straps instead of fabric.
Installation
These covers are one of the easiest to install. The bottom part wraps underneath the front of the seat and the top wraps around the headrest and secures with velcro. There are parts you can put between the cushion and the back to keep it in place.
Quality
Since the edges are the only part with real sheepskin, there are several seams. Several seams usually mean the product was made from multiple pelts which could cause inconsistency between panels.
The back of the covers are made with suede leather and have a pleated skirt and a storage pocket. They’re dustproof and sturdy and can withstand some wear and tear.

Pros

Incredibly fluffy sheepskin
Velcro for easy installation
Convenient pocket in the back

Cons

Not 100% sheepskin

8. Best Sheepskin Seat Pad: Desert Breeze Australian Sheepskin Seat Pad

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Why we like it: This seat pad doesn’t have to be strapped into your car to use it, so you can put in whichever seat you want or even take it inside and use it on your office chair.
Editor’s Rating:

If you’re looking for a sheepskin seat cover because you need relief while you sit for extended periods of time, then you probably need the same kind of relief elsewhere. Working an office job or even sitting at the kitchen table can be uncomfortable when you have pain or discomfort. Why spend more money on several products when you can just buy one?
This seat pad has a leather bottom with non-slip cloth underneath it so it’ll stay in place while you sit. It’s great for the car because you can set it down and not worry about it sliding around while you’re driving.
One big downside about this pad is that it isn’t recommended on heated seats because it might get damaged if it gets too hot. If your seats are heated, then give this one a miss.
Type of Sheepskin
The seat pad is made from Australian sheepskin. Each pad comes from a single pelt so there will be consistent quality throughout the whole bad. The sheepskin has been trimmed to one-inch thickness. It’s dense and plush and will definitely give you the comfort and softness you’re looking for.
Airbag Compatibility
There aren’t any complications with airbags since it’s just a seat cushion.
Installation
You’re going to say “duh,” but all you have to do is put it on your seat. It can go on the driver’s seat, passenger seat, and any of the back seats. Big car, small car, something in between – it’s most likely going to fit whatever you have.
It’s a square measuring 20 x 20 inches. If your car is particularly small, it might hang off the edge a little bit.
There aren’t any straps or hooks because it has a non-slip bottom and is meant to be moved around as you need it. Even with a special padding on the bottom, it might move around when you sit down if you hit the edges, but movement isn’t too much of an issue since it’s big enough to cover most seats.
Quality
This seat pad is made of high-quality Australian sheepskin. It’s durable and won’t get matted since the sheepskin is short. It’s thick and plush and won’t have any thin patches. You can wash it in the washing machine if it gets dirty and it won’t get messed up.

Pros

Use it in whichever car seat you want
Can also be used in any kind of chair
Machine washable
No installation necessary

Cons

Shouldn’t be used on heated seats

9. Best Two-Pack Set of Sheepskin Seat Covers: OxGord Sheepskin Seat Covers

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Why we like it: This pack of two seat covers is high-quality at an affordable price. This pack will most likely save you some money when you compare it to the price of buying two individually priced seat covers.
Editor’s Rating:

If you’re looking for a seat cover, you’ll probably want two, so your driver and passenger seats aren’t mismatched. Seat covers are typically sold individually, so it can be expensive to buy two of them.
Buying a pack of two can save you some money, and this pack by OxGord offers great-quality covers for a decent price.
Type of Sheepskin
This seat cover is made of Australian sheepskin on the front side. The back and sides are made with a faux fur that looks similar to the sheepskin. There might be some slight color variation between the two but they’re a close match.
Airbag Compatibility
These seat covers aren’t compatible with side airbags. The faux fur wraps around the sides and back of the seat, so airbags that are in the chair won’t be able to pop out. This can be a safety hazard if you get into an accident and need the airbags to deploy.
Installation
Installation is pretty easy. The top slides over the chair like a sock. Then, you wrap the bottom around the front of the chair. There are straps on the bottom to secure the cover into place. The straps have velcro to keep them secure.
Velcro can get clogged from hair and debris, so the straps might eventually stop working. If this happens, you can clean out the side with the hooks (the scratchy part) and it should work like new again.
Quality
The sheepskin on these covers is only on the front sides and they have a diamond pattern, so there are several seams to make the pattern. However, it comes from one pelt and is quite sturdy.
The sheepskin is trimmed pretty short to more than one inch, so it won’t feel as plush as other seat covers. But, you won’t have to worry about brushing or fluffing this one as often if you’ll ever need to at all.

Pros

Convenient 2-in-1 pack
Easy to install with velcro straps
Sheepskin doesn’t have to be brushed

Cons

Not compatible with side airbags
Velcro might become loose over time
Irregularly stocked

10. Best Faux Sheepskin Seat Cover: Maples Faux Sheepskin Wool Seat Cover

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Why we like it: The synthetic fur looks and feels just like genuine sheepskin. It’s a great alternative if you want the look without using an animal product.
Editor’s Rating:

Not everyone is comfortable with having the skin of an animal in their vehicle, and that’s okay. Fortunately, modern technologies have allowed manufacturers to create alternatives that are so close to the real thing that you can replace it altogether. This car seat cover looks like the posh sheepskin covers you see in fancy cars, but they’re completely synthetic.
Type of Sheepskin
The “sheepskin” on this cover is synthetic. Many synthetic covers have a chemical smell to them, but this one doesn’t. You won’t have to give it time to air out before you put it in your car.
The faux fur is incredibly soft and will feel a lot like the real thing. The hairs are about two inches long, so they have the furry look of other sheepskin covers.
Airbag Compatibility
The faux fur is only on the front side. The back is made of faux suede leather and is connected to the front with straps. Since the sides aren’t completely covered, the side airbags will be able to eject without being blocked.
Installation
Elastic bands are used to hold the cover in place. The front sits on top of the seat and then you can stretch the elastics around the chair to secure it.
Quality
Synthetic sheepskin is pretty sturdy and you don’t have to worry about whether or not it came from a single pelt, as it’s not authentic. However, one thing to note is that it doesn’t conduct body temperature quite as regular sheepskin does. You’ll feel warm in the winter, but you might feel warm in the summer, too.

Pros

Looks and feels like genuine sheepskin
Won’t have a harsh chemical smell
Easy to install
Compatible with side airbags

Cons

Might be too warm in the summer
It’s not real sheepskin

The Complete Guide to Buying the Best Sheepskin Seat Covers
Buying a sheepskin seat cover might seem like a simple thing to do. You just pick the fluffiest one, add it to the cart, and check out – right? You could if you don’t care about quality, but that’s absolutely something you should care about.
Real sheepskin isn’t cheap. You can definitely find some great deals online, but they’re still going to be more expensive than faux fur options. This is because sheepskin is durable, soft, and is highly sought after for luxury items like apparel and rugs.
Many companies try to market their “authentic” sheepskin as authentic when it’s in fact the opposite. Of course this deception is accompanied with authentic prices, making you think that something with that price tag couldn’t possibly be fake.
Real sheepskin has many benefits that synthetic wool doesn’t have, so we’ll break it down for you real quick in this guide. We’ll also explain how to determine real sheepskin from the faux stuff and which type of cover to choose for your vehicle.
Varieties of Sheepskin
Sheepskin is collected and treated in different ways to achieve specific looks and feels for particular products. Seat covers are typically all the same kind of sheepskin, which is long and thick. The following are different types of sheepskin:
Traditional
When you think of sheepskin, you’re probably thinking of the long and thick kind that you see on fancy coats or rugs. That’s the traditional long wool. This is what most car seat covers are made with because the untrimmed wool is soft and keeps you cool or warm depending on the season.
Curly
Short curly pelts come from curly-haired sheep. These sheep usually have long wool, but it’s trimmed to be very short so it can be used on blankets or clothing.
Infant Care
Sheepskin that’s used for baby blankets is specially treated and sanitized to prevent odor and bacterial growth. The wool usually comes from an entire lambskin pelt, so it’s smaller than other sheepskin blankets.
Medical-Grade
Sheepskin is often used for medical purposes because it can help control body temperature and improve air circulation. The wool is dense and short so it feels springy and works as an excellent seat cover for hospital beds and wheelchairs. Its specific tanning process allows it to be machine washable.
Pet-Grade
Sheepskin blankets for pets are made with lower-quality wool and the leather is allowed to have imperfections like cracks or holes. Even though flaws are allowed, it’s still a luxury item for pets.
Slink Skin
Slink skin comes from young lambs in New Zealand born in early spring who didn’t survive. The wool is curly and very fine and the leather is some of the softest leather available; it’s highly sought after and is considered quite luxurious.
Rest assured that lambskin only comes from natural casualties. Unfortunately, young lambs die every year because they weren’t strong enough to make it to warmer weather.
Twinface
This type of sheepskin is primarily used for the leather. It’s used for shoes and boots because the leather looks nice on the outside, and the wool feels comfortable on the inside.
How to Tell If the Sheepskin Is Real
It can be difficult to decipher whether sheepskin is real or not online. You’ll be able to tell once you have the product in your hands, however.
The best way to tell if a pelt is genuine is to look at where the wool is attached to the leather by spreading apart the individual hairs. If it’s genuine, you will see a smooth surface underneath the hair. You might occasionally find some scars, but it’s still genuine if it has any.
Synthetic wool is attached to leather with some other kind of material. It’s usually a mesh backing or another type of weak cloth. You’ll likely see grids between the wool and the leather. Genuine wool doesn’t need companion fabric to be attached to leather because it’s already attached.
Other ways to tell if a pelt is genuine is if:
You can tug on the wool and the hairs don’t fall out.
The leather is soft.
A single pelt is small (if it’s large, then several were sewn together).
You can pour water on it but it will still feel slightly dry.
Of course, shopping online doesn’t give you this chance, but we’ve been clear in our reviews which products are genuine sheepskin and which aren’t.
Durability
Sheepskin is incredibly durable. When you’re choosing a seat cover made of a genuine pelt, be sure you’re in love with it because with proper care, it can last a couple of decades or even longer.
The wool can bend thousands of times but it won’t break. That’s perfect for seat covers since they’ll constantly be sat on for long periods of time. Synthetic wool is more likely to have hair falling out of it and will have bare spots over time.
Genuine sheepskin is also water-resistant, so if you get a little clumsy and spill on it, it’s not the end of the world. Depending on how the seat cover was tanned, you might be able to put it in the washing machine.
Sheepskin Benefits
Sheepskin has a surprising number of health benefits. Faux fur doesn’t compare when it comes to benefits – it’s flammable, traps bacteria, and doesn’t insulate temperatures. Sheepskin, on the other hand, does many things that make it a great option to use in the car.
Regulates Your Body Temperature
A 3-inch pelt of wool might not sound appealing during the summer months, but it will actually help keep you cool. If you have a sheepskin seat cover in your car, it will prevent the hot seat from burning your legs and will help you quickly cool down once the air conditioner is turned on.
Wicks Away Moisture
Sheepskin can remove moisture from your skin. Since it also regulates body temperature, it’s a great way to cool down in the summer.
Sheepskin is typically used for medical purposes because it can prevent moisture from causing infections on the skin. Since it doesn’t trap bacteria, it’s a sanitary option for preventing moisture buildup.
Provides Circulation and Relief
Regulating body temperature helps improve your blood flow. Since the wool is thick, it evenly distributes your weight so pressure points won’t stop circulation. If your leg falls asleep while you drive, a seat cover or seat pad will give you relief.
The natural springy traits of sheepskin will conform to your body for extra comfort. The support offered by dense wool can help relieve aches and pains, especially on long road trips.
Hypoallergenic
Genuine sheepskin is treated with very few chemicals, if any, so they’re a great option for those with sensitive skin and allergies. It can even be soothing on eczema and rashes.
Maintenance
Sheepskin requires some maintenance to keep it fluffy and like new. The fur can go flat over time so regular brushing will help it stay standing up. Dirt can get trapped in it, so brushing it and shaking will help knock it loose.
If you spill something on your seat cover, act quickly to clean it up. Start with a dry towel to blot out the stain, and if that doesn’t work, use a damp cloth and sheepskin detergent. Regular soap has enzymes that’ll ruin the sheepskin, but specially made detergent won’t hurt it and will actually make it feel softer.
If you frequently dine in the driver’s seat, consider keeping some sheepskin detergent in your glove box. If stains can quickly become permanent if they aren’t cleaned up immediately.
Leaving baking soda on the messy area will absorb odors. After you spot clean an area, let it air dry instead of using the dryer or other heat sources.
Final Thoughts
A sheepskin seat cover is an aesthetic upgrade to your vehicle that comes with a string of benefits. They last a long time if well maintained, so they can be considered a long-term investment. Synthetic covers that don’t use sheepskin and merely mimic its effects are also good options, as “fake” sheepskin is very close in look and feel to the real thing, and doesn’t involve the use of animals. So, whether faux or real, a sheepskin cover of your choice will make your ride comfortable and cool. Enjoy our list. More

We hope it’s not a groundbreaking announcement, but we believe brakes are essential. The whole stopping thing tends to be a vital part of driving a car. Keeping the brakes in good working condition is one of those necessary things everyone working on cars has to do. One of the most common causes of brakes losing performance is air bubbles in the brake lines.
Any time you alter a component of the braking system or change the fluid, you risk introducing air into the lines. It can also happen naturally over time. To get the air out, you pull or push the fluid containing the air out of the system and replace it with fluid that has no bubbles. This is called bleeding your brakes and dedicated tools like the ones we are reviewing today make the process a lot easier.

Choosing the Right Tool for the Job
In this article, we are going to give you a quick buying guide, a top ten list with reviews, and an Buyer’s Guide at the end. Even though the reviews below are ranked, keep in mind that the most important thing is finding the best tool for your specific job.
There are a lot of different ways to bleed a brake system. Almost every product below takes a different approach, and that means choosing one for you will be about choosing the one that fits your situation more than the one that’s “the best.” In this section, before we begin the reviews, we’ll help you figure out how to pick that out.
What Does it Mean to Bleed Brakes Anyway?
In short, you are bleeding the air out of the brake lines. We’ll go through it more down below in our guide, but when you have anything in the brake lines aside from brake fluid, it’s bad. The kind of bad that means you try to come to a stop at a stoplight, and you don’t.
Push or Pull
There are two main ways to bleed a system. The first way is to push all the fluid out of the end of the line by pressurizing the start. Tools that attach to the master cylinder reservoir work in this manner. They push the fluid through the entire system and force the air out. When you bleed the lines without a tool by pressing on the peddle, it works a similar way. Tools that attach to bleeder screws at the end of the system pull the air out using suction. Usually that’s done with a small vacuum pump.
One way isn’t better than the other. Both will get the air out of your lines. Pressure systems are usually faster and easier to use but cost more. Vacuum systems take more work to use, but are more compact and work on a wider variety of systems. Pumping the pedals to build pressure instead of using a tool is really cheap, but it is a very frustrating experience.
Hand, Foot, or Air Compressor
There are a variety of ways to alter the pressure. Whether you are creating a vacuum to draw the fluid out or creating pressure to push the fluid out, you have options. The most common ways are to push on the pedal, operate a hand pump, or use an air compressor.
Foot Power
Traditionally when you bleed the brakes, you do so by stomping on the brake pedal a lot and pushing the fluid out. That’s still a popular way to do it, and we have several products on the list that are designed to make it easier to do alone.
Hand Power
Foot power isn’t the only way to bleed a system, though. Hand power is the most convenient way to power a pump. The Mityvac MV800 is powered by squeezing a trigger to draw a vacuum. This syringe style draw tool works by pulling on a plunger.
Our favorite unit, the Motive Products Power Pressure, works like a bike pump. The hand power units offer the convenience of using your foot with the convenience of not needing to be in two places at once. That makes them the best choice for the average home mechanic.
Air Compressor Powered
Units that use an air compressor are faster and more hardcore than hand pumps. That’s because air compressors use electricity, or sometimes fuel, to build huge amounts of pressure. Way more pressure than you’d want to build by hand, and they do it way faster. It’s a great option to grab a unit like the 8milelake Pneumatic Bleeder if you have an air compressor already. Unfortunately, air compressors are expensive, need to be plugged in, and the tools have to be fed by a hose.
Other Uses
There are tons of systems that benefit from having the air drawn out of them. Clutches often use hydraulic lines that need bleeding. Other systems need to be drained, and tools can help speed up the process. It’s easy to change the oil if you let a device pull all the oil out. Units like the Hydro-Turf are general-purpose fluid extractors, so you can change your oil, bleed your brakes, and change your coolant all with the same tool. It’s not the best at any of those things, but it can do them all. A dedicated bleeder that attaches to the master cylinder is pretty much only good for bleeding brakes.
Now that you know what to look for, here are our top 10 brake bleeder kits for 2020

Top 10 Best Brake Bleeding Kits 2020

1. Best Overall Pick: Motive Products Power Pressure Bleeder

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Why we like it: The Motive Pressure Bleeder is a completely dedicated brake fluid management tool. It’ll give you the most complete air extraction or fluid exchange you can get.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
First, we have an important note concerning whether or not it will fit your vehicle:
IMPORTANT
Motive offers a variety of products that are all the same except for a single hose adapter. The one we’ve listed is compatible with most asian-made vehicles as well as American cars made by Ford. There is also a version for GM vehicles as well as one that fits most European automobiles. Read the description to make sure. They sell a lot of different ones, not just the ones we listed. Get the one for your car, or you’ll have to order an adapter separately, and who has time for that.
With that warning out of the way, the Motive bleeder works by creating pressure and forcing fluid through your system from the top. The first step is to attach the included cap to your brake fluid reservoir. That cap is the part that’s different from car make to make, so make sure to get the one for your car. To get the pressure, pump it up by hand. Fill the fluid tank, and you are ready to go.
Sometimes things are just easier to understand visually, so here’s a video of it in action by Blakes Garage.
Who it’s Best For
The Motive bleeder is perfect for the type of person that performs as much car maintenance as they can at home. It’s for the DIY mechanics and driveway warriors who are not afraid to wrench the entire weekend away on a project car. If you are only planning on one brake job a year, the Motive is a little much, and this Mityvac is more your speed. However, if you are changing out the fluid after every spirited drive through the canyons, the Motive is a lifesaver.
Our Thoughts
There is a philosophy that extends throughout the DIY world, and that is the fear of the unitaskers. Every tool should fill multiple roles and be good at everything. If you want that, get this Hydro-Turf. It’s good enough, but that’s not the thinking behind the Motive Pressure Bleeder. The Motive is just really good at pushing fluid out of a bunch of hoses.
So good that it’s easily the most complete way to replace brake fluid and bleed a system. Everything else might be able to do it, but nothing else will do it as well or with as much control. Unless you want to pay crazy money for this premium tool, that still won’t be as convenient, but why would you.

Pros

Does the job of bleeding a system really, really well
Has adapters available for any car
Good quality parts

Cons

Really only good for bleeding brake and clutch lines
Setting it up is a bit complicated

2. Best Premium Pick: Mityvac MV6835

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Why we like it: If you want to pull out two quarts of fluid per minute effortlessly, the Mityvac MV6835 is the tool for you.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
This is the most complicated unit on our list, so the best way to understand how to use it is to watch this video by OLCTinfo.
The short of it is that you use compressed air to create suction. That suction pulls the fluid through a check valve (this is one of the only units that includes its own check valve) and into a large reservoir.
Who it’s Best For
Since you need an air compressor and you need a ton of set up time, this is really a tool that’s only good for someone that does a lot of work with brake fluids. If you are a weekend mechanic or an entry-level DIYer, you’ll be spending a lot of money for a system that you won’t get much use out of. Just grab a hand tool like the HTOMT and call it good enough.
Our Thoughts
If you have an air compressor and are comfortable with the brake fluid changing process, the Mityvac is a dream. You just squirt air through the unit and suck all the fluid out, the end. It’s really fast and holds a lot, which is pretty much useless if you’re just doing a quick bleed.
It’s hard to justify the cost. If you aren’t running a semi-pro or pro shop, it’s not worth it. You save a few minutes or so every corner, which adds up to hours if you do multiple services a week. An hour of shop time would pay for this unit twice. If you’re just an every so often kind of brake servicer, you could buy 5 HTOMTs and still be coming out ahead in value.

Pros

Fast
Automatic, you won’t have to hurt your hands or feet pumping
Holds a lot of fluid

Cons

It’s complicated, especially compared to other units
It’s expensive

3. Best Budget Pick: HTOMT 2 in 1

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Why we like it: The HTOMT is a perfectly acceptable bleeder kit that’s cheap. It includes a case that comes in 3 different colors. What more could you want?
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
Connect a tube to the bleeder screw, then connect the other side to the little reservoir. Connect another tube from the other side of the reservoir to the hand pump. Open the bleeder screw, then pump until it draws fluid into the reservoir. Keep going until all the air is out, but don’t let the Master Cylinder level get too low.
Like with the other units, we found you a video that shows the process of using this unit. This time it’s one by Ry the Car Guy, who gets a little long-winded. Very thorough, though. Just as a note, he uses the ABN vacuum, which is the same unit as the HTOMT. In fact, the same unit is labeled a hundred different things, it just depends on where you buy it.
Who it’s Best For
This tool is the right tool for the home mechanic that has to bleed a line every so often. It’s not great if you have to do a lot of brake work, the Motive is the tool for more hardcore use, but it’s perfect for an every so often thing.
It’s also cheap enough that even if you don’t plan on bleeding a system right now, you can pick one up and just have it as part of your kit just in case. Worst-case scenario, you can charge your friends a six-pack to borrow it and come out ahead.
Our Thoughts
This is the cheaper of the two hand pumps on our list. Compared to the Mityvac, the HTOMT is a bit lower in quality, takes a bit longer to work, and isn’t as comfortable. None of those make it bad, though.
This kit comes with all the adapters you could want, and it comes with its own case. That case might actually be what we like best about it. Most budget tools don’t include a way to store them, and with a tool like a brake bleeder that you’ll only use every so often, being in a case will keep it nice during the months between uses.
The only real issue is that the more you use this kit, the more you’ll notice the lack of quality. They get sloppy over time and will lose vacuum power. As we said before, if you are doing a lot of fluid changing just get the Motive, don’t bother with a tiny hand pump. If you want to stick with a hand pump, just replace the HTOMT when it breaks. They are so cheap, it’s not worth fixing them.

Pros

Inexpensive
Easy to use
Comes with a case

Cons

Quality could be better
HTOMT isn’t a “real” brand, and you can find the same unit all over the place with a different brand label

4. Best High Capacity Bleeder: Hydro-Turf Oil Extractor

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Why we like it: The Hydro-Turf Oil Extractor has so many uses it’s hard not to like. Change your oil, change your brake fluid, even water your roses. It can do it all.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
Connect a hose to the bleed screw, and connect the other to the extractor. Use the hand pump to build a vacuum inside the extractor, and then treat it just like any smaller vacuum pump. What you need to pay attention to is the fluid leaving the caliper when you disconnect it. Unless you use a valve like the Motion Pro, the system can suck air back into the lines when the vacuum is released.
More importantly, keep an eye on the reservoir for the master cylinder. The Hydro-Turf will suck the entire system dry in a matter of minutes. Accidentally replacing all of your fluid with air while trying to get rid of a few bubbles is the definition of suck.
Who it’s Best For
A large fluid extractor like the Hydro-Turf has tons of uses. If you have a small shop and hate unitaskers, it’s great to have tools like a large extractor. Especially if you are here looking for a bleeder, and you don’t have an oil extractor already, you should get this one.
Oil extractors will change the way you do maintenance forever. You just suck all the oil out of the dipstick tube into the easy-pour container. No crawling in the dirt to get the freeze plug out, pouring hot oil all over your hands and driveway when it misses the drain pan.
Our Thoughts
There are better oil extractors on the market. We’ve even written about them before; products like the Topsider are more suited for oil changing. There are also better bleeders out there, like the Motive we list.
However, even though there are better tools for each of the jobs, there are no other units that fill both roles so conveniently. The Hydro-Turf is lightweight, needs no power tools, and has a good-sized pump that makes it easy to draw out a lot of fluid.
It’s a bit unfriendly if all you want to do is bleed brakes, though. There are some difficulties with tube sizing, and it will require some DIY to get it to function well. Using it for bleeding also carries the genuine risk that you will accidentally suck way too much fluid out of your system. You have to be really vigilant if you use it as a general-purpose vacuum pump.

Pros

Large capacity
Fast
Great for other things as well

Cons

Requires some DIY if you don’t have standard bleed screws
There are easier ways to bleed a brake system

5. Best Hand-Powered Vacuum Bleeder: Mityvac MV800

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Why we like it: The Mityvac MV800 is simple, bulletproof, and universal.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
The Mityvac MV800 is a simple hand vacuum pump. You connect a hose to your brake line that goes to a reservoir, then you connect the reservoir to the tool. Squeeze the handle a bunch to draw a vacuum and watch it suck fluid and air into the reservoir.
Check out our guide here for general brake bleeding practices or watch this video by Pet Rock’s Garage, he uses the exact same model.
Who it’s Best For
The MV800 is the perfect tool for someone that probably won’t bleed brake lines very often but still wants a good quality tool they can rely on. A simple vacuum pump like this Mityvac has many uses, but the time it takes to draw the fluid will lead to hand cramps. If you have to do a lot of operations every year, it will make you wish you had a pneumatic tool like this one.
Our Thoughts
There are two hand vacuum pumps on our list. This is the more expensive one. The other, the HTOMT, works fine. It will hold a vacuum, draw out fluid, and probably have an adapter that fits on your caliper. It’s cheaper and comes with a case, too. Why would you get the Mityvac if the cheaper HTOMT would suffice? It’s because the Mityvac will last you through your tenth time using it, and the ergonomics of it are way better.
It has a trigger release for the air pressure instead of a funky hard to press button, and it has contoured handles instead of hard, flat metal ones. The fittings are a little more durable than the HTOMT’s, and it can draw a vacuum just a bit faster. In short, it’s more expensive, but your hands will appreciate it more.

Pros

Good quality
Easy to use
Comes with a large variety of attachments

Cons

Isn’t good for a large volume of fluid
More expensive than similar tools

6. Best Air Compressor Powered Bleeder: 8milelake Pneumatic Bleeder

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Why we like it: The 8milelake Pneumatic Bleeder is another perfectly acceptable bleeder, and is similar to the HTOMT. It’s air-powered instead of hand-powered, so the likelihood of hand cramps are much lower.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
The 8milelake Pneumatic Bleeder works like the hand vacuum units like the HTOMT, it just uses an air compressor to “pump” instead of your fingers. You connect a hose that runs from the bleeder screw to the unit, then squeeze the trigger.
The compressed air creates a venturi, which creates a vacuum and sucks the fluid and bubbles right out of the system. Just be aware, just like with other budget units, this one has no check valve.
Supercheap Auto, who you likely know of in the US because they sponsor the Mighty Car Mods, did this video on a similar unit. They call it a Toledo, but like with the HTOMT and Pittsburg Tools, the Toledo and the 8milelake are the same thing.
Who it’s Best For
It’s best for anyone with the same requirements as the HTOMT unit, but who has an air compressor handy. It’s not a unit for doing a ton of fluid changes, it’s just good for a brake service every so often. If you want to use air pressure and need to do a ton of fluid work, get the big Mityvac. It’s got check valves and accessories that make everything faster.
Our Thoughts
If you have an air compressor handy, the 8milelake is a great unit. It has all the convenience and fluid extracting power of a hand pump without the cramps. The reservoir is slightly bigger too, so you can pull out more fluid. That means this is one of the faster tools on this list. Honestly, since it’s powered by an air compressor, that’s exactly what you’d expect.
The price is what really sets this one apart. It’s cheap. Partly because it’s a rebranded Harbor Freight tool. This means the old adage “you get what you pay for” rings true, just like with anything from HF. It’ll probably work, but it also might break after the 4th use. It’s easy to replace, though, since they are dirt cheap.

Pros

Fast
Easy to use for a pneumatic unit
Inexpensive

Cons

Quality could be better
Easy to accidentally let air back into the system since it’s fast and has no check valve

7. Best Simple Brake Bleeding Tool: Motion Pro One Way Valve

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Why we like it: You can use the Motion Pro by itself, but what really makes it shine is if you use it with another tool. A one-way valve makes any fluid change or bleeding procedure easier.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
You connect the valve to the bleeder valve with a hose. Make sure the arrow is pointing the right way. What it does is make sure that you can’t suck air back into the line, eliminating the need to keep a constant eye on the container you are draining into. As long as you keep the cylinder reservoir full, you can just flush fluid out forever and know you’ll eventually get rid of all the air.
It works just fine alone, just drain into a bucket or something. Where it really shines, though, is in conjunction with other pumps. Bleeders like the HTOMT or the Bleed-O-Matic don’t have built-in one-way valves, so you can speed up the process by running the Motion Pro in line with them.
Who it’s Best For
It’s our opinion that if you work on cars, you should have one of these in your toolbox. They are cheap, work in a huge variety of applications, and make a perfect backup when you can’t find your HTOMT vacuum pump.
Our Thoughts
The Motion Pro one way valve is such a simple unit there isn’t much to say about it. It’s a small metal thingamajig with a hose on each side, and it only allows stuff to travel through it in one direction. It does everything it claims, and the likelihood of it failing for no reason is minuscule. Unless you run something sticky or chunky through it, it will work. Don’t do that.
Even though this costs more than the Bleed-O-Matic, it’s more useful. You don’t need a dedicated catch bottle. An old Monster can works fine as a container, and with the check valve, it’s easy to bleed the brakes solo.

Pros

Infinitely useful
Not likely to ever break
Inexpensive

Cons

Easy to lose
Using it by itself takes a bit of practice.

8. Easiest to Use: OEM Tools Bleed-O-Matic

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Why we like it: The Bleed-O-Matic has a really cool name. More importantly, it’s a very simple, very easy to use brake bleeder.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
Hook the bottle to the bleed screw with the hose. Pump the brakes a few times, then open the bleed screw until the air is out. You will probably have to do that multiple times per caliper. You can also just let gravity do all the work. If you vent the top of the system and keep the reservoir full, the fluid will slowly drain into the bottle. Eventually, the air will work it’s way out. That’s probably the slowest way to bleed a system, though.
The Error Code Guy has a video where he uses one here, and you can hear his frustration through the entire thing. We disagree with some of his findings, it’s totally doable if you are alone, but it does illustrate really well the limitations of this kind of kit.
Who it’s Best For
Need to bleed a brake system and only have like $10 to do it? Here you go. Honestly, you might as well grab one for any system. It makes a convenient catch tank that you can use for many different vacuum or pressure tools. If you can work it into your plan, get a one-way valve like the Motion Pro to use with the tank. You can just open the bleed screw and pump the brakes until the air is out without running back and forth that way.
Our Thoughts
It’s hard to have thoughts about a tool that is little more than a magnet attached to a bottle with a straw. It does what it says. It’s the slowest, most frustrating thing to use because you’ll be running between the master cylinder, the brake pedal, and the bleed screw the entire time it drains. It does what it says it does, though, and you can do a whole brake fluid flush by yourself.
Get the HTOMT to have a better time. It’s twice as much, but it’s approximately 100 times less frustrating. Get the Bleed-O-Matic if you plan on doing like one brake job ever. After, either throw away the thing, or add it to your toolbox to be used as an oil applicator.

Pros

Cheap
Very, very straightforward to use
Makes a good addition to other units

Cons

Takes forever to bleed a system
Unless you use a check valve, you risk introducing air into the system if the pressure depletes

9. Best Syringe Style Extractor: ARES 70920

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Why we like it: There are two great reasons to love the ARES 70920. First, it’s great for small capacity jobs. Second, you get to feel like a doctor.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
Stick the hose on the bleed screw. Start to open the bleed screw and then pull the plunger to suck the fluid out.
Bleeding brakes isn’t what it’s most useful for, though. It can do it, but what it’s good at is sucking all the fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir when doing a fluid change or flush. Especially if you have a reservoir that is hard to get too. We’re looking at you owners of old VWs.
Who it’s Best For
Along with the Motion Pro, the ARES is another tool we just think every person who works on cars should have. It has a million uses. You can add fluid to a hard to reach spot, you can suck up samples from places like the rear differential, and you can bleed smaller systems much faster than a vacuum pump can.
Our Thoughts
It’s probably painfully obvious at this point, but we love tools that have a lot of uses. Most people are limited by the amount of space they have to work with, so something small and infinitely useful is perfect. Especially since it comes with a detachable hose and is easy to take apart. Some units are all one piece, or difficult to break down. That makes keeping them clean a nightmare. The ARES is robust and easy to clean, so you won’t feel bad tossing it into a drawer with other tools.
They are also partnered with the ASPCA, which is a weird perk to include with an automotive tool. If you love animals, then why not support companies that support causes you like?

Pros

Easy to clean
Good for hard to reach areas
Has a good capacity for a syringe style unit

Cons

It’s a bit on the expensive side for a simple tool
It can bleed brakes, but there are way better ways to do that.

10. Best Total Brake Service Kit: Performance Tool W180

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Why we like it: This entry-level brake tool kit comes with a Bleed-O-Matic like device, and a bunch of other stuff you probably want to have on hand if you are working on your brakes.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
The bleed tool itself works just like the Bleed-O-Matic. You attach the bottle to your caliper, open the fitting and pump the brakes until there are no more bubbles.
The rest of the tools are for all sorts of different things. The piston tool is great for changing brake pads on disc brakes, the spring tool is essential for servicing drum brakes, and the pry bar will somehow find its way into every project you take on.
Who it’s Best For
The new mechanic who decided that they want to take a journey into the world of automotive repair. Someone who doesn’t have the money to buy all the parts separately. Someone who saw the price tag on the cheap HTOMT pump and were worried they would still need to buy a spring tool. The neophyte that will use all the included tools exactly once before deciding it wasn’t worth it to skimp out, and will go back over this list right after they finish their first caliper replacement.
Our Thoughts
If you’re bleeding brake lines, you are probably doing other brake work as well. Something like replacing a caliper, adjusting shoes, or repairing a damaged line. All those tasks require special tools that the average new mechanic won’t have. This kit has those special tools.
They are low-quality garbage, sure. That doesn’t mean they aren’t useful, especially the pry bars. You’ll find yourself using those for anything. Opening a paint can, popping off dash components, stabbing a hole in a grease container after the tab breaks off, really the uses are limitless. That makes it worth it alone, and if you do one brake job with the pliers, then the set has paid for itself.

Pros

Includes all the tools for brake work
Simple and easy to use
Inexpensive

Cons

Quality is questionable
There are definitely better options if you just care about bleeding lines

Guide to Brake Bleeding
You made it down to this section? Awesome. Welcome, now that you’ve chosen the best brake bleeding tool for you, we are sure you’d like to know more about bleeding brakes. Maybe you haven’t decided yet, and you still just want more info to make a decision. Either way is fine with us. Things like “why” and “how” are great things to know about, so let’s look at that.
Brake Bleeding is an Important Part of Maintaining Your Car
Whenever you change a brake component, whether you are upgrading a part or replacing a part, you introduce air into the system. It is also just something that happens over time as the fluid breaks down or components leak just a little.
Air compresses, and that means that instead of the fluid pushing on your brake components when you press on the pedal, you will just be compressing the air. If you have a lot of air in your brake system, your brakes won’t work.
Brake Bleeding Frequency
The average car just needs a good brake bleed about once a year to stay up to speed. If you do a lot of driving, consider upping that to every six months.
Also, any time you change a component like a caliper or line, bleed the entire system. Any time you have to add fluid, you should bleed the system. Before every race, if you are into that sort of thing, you should bleed the system just in case. Nothing is more embarrassing than boiling your brakes on the first lap just because you were too lazy to spend 5 minutes refreshing the fluid.
Flushing Your Brake Fluid
Cars.com recommends changing your brake fluid between every 3-years and never. That’s more or less a roundabout way of saying, “check your manual.”
However, we at AQ understand that there’s a difference between regular service, and the type of service you perform to make your car better. Flush your brake fluid more frequently than the manual recommends if you do a lot of spirited driving and boil your brake fluid often. Especially if you take it to a track or do a lot of AutoX events, you will probably want to change your fluid as often as you change your pads.
Choosing a Brake Fluid
If you are doing a lot of driving, live in a hot area, or plan on racing, there are high-performance brake fluids like the Brembo LCF600 or the AP Racing R series that will suit your needs better. More expensive, higher quality fluids will have a higher boiling point, meaning they will break down slower and work longer under intense driving situations.
Your car won’t really benefit from such high-performance fluid. You shouldn’t be driving your daily ride hard enough to boil standard brake fluid, and you’ll just be wasting money if you buy the expensive stuff. If you are taking a “trip to Mexico,” the expensive fluids can be the difference between stopping with your brakes or stopping because you hit a tree.
How to Bleed Brakes
We hate it when “read the manual” is an answer to so many questions, but read the owner’s manual first. You may also want to check out our step-by-step guide to bleeding brakes. In general, you will start with the furthest point away from the master cylinder. That’s the passenger rear wheel on most cars. It might not be, and that’s why you have to read the manual.
Once you are at the furthest point, locate the “bleeder screw.” All hydraulic systems have one, and most have many. On disc brakes, it’s on top of the caliper; on drum brakes, they like to hide it behind the dust cover. Clean the area really thoroughly before hooking anything up. Pro Tip: cover the bleed screw in brake line safe grease to avoid accidentally sucking air.
When it’s clean, hook a hose to the bleed valve and follow the instructions on whatever kit you are using. Suck fluid until the air bubbles stop, then close the screw. Move to the next furthest point, which is the driver’s side rear wheel on most cars and repeat the process. Work your way up to the very last point, then you’re done.
We included a lot of videos in the descriptions of each product that go through the entire process, like this one, so check there if you prefer more visual learning.
Do You Need A Special Tool at All?
No. You’ll notice that a lot of the tools specify that they just make it easier to do a brake fluid change alone. That might lead you to believe that if you’re willing to do things the hard way, you don’t need a tool at all, and you can save money by rigging something up. You’d be totally right. Mechanics all over the world do entire brake services with nothing but an old Powerade bottle and some leftover fuel line.
A cheap vacuum pump is like $20, though, and will cut the amount of time it takes to bleed a brake system in half. Honestly, that’s probably too conservative an estimate. It can take hours to bleed a system while a dedicated tool can do it in minutes. You can save money on the tool, but how much is your time worth?
Maintaine Brakes Offer Better Stopping Power
Brakes are important. Don’t take our word for it, try driving without them for a while. Actually, don’t do that. We don’t endorse driving without brakes. You know full well that brakes are essential.
Servicing your brakes and keeping them in top working condition is one of the most satisfying pieces of maintenance you can do to your ride. Grab one of the excellent tools up there and get wrenching! More

We here at AutoQuarterly are big fans of telling you about how awful your factory sound system is. Whether we are laying out the amps you have to have or the speakers you should have bought already, there’s no end to the car audio upgrade journey.
That journey starts with the head unit; it’s the master control station for the rest of the components. Modern touch screen stereos are an entire home theater in a box. They turn your car into a total entertainment system. If you’re looking for a big screen in a compact package, a head unit with a flip-out screen is your best bet. Keep reading for our top picks.

The Ins and Outs of Flip Out Screens
Here’s the problem. A lot of older cars don’t have room for modern, double DIN stereo systems. Even some newer cars don’t. That sucks because the contemporary world is all about touchscreens, and touchscreens take up a lot of dash real estate. That’s where the flip-out head comes in. It’s got all the functions of a beautiful modern screen, where you can watch videos or control your playlists like a DJ, and none of the additional space requirements.
The Advantages of a Flip-Out Screen
There are a lot of touch screen stereos, so what makes a flip-out screen appealing? There aren’t nearly as many options, and they are more likely to break. It seems like you’d be better off just going for a big fixed screen. Well, hold on, there are a few big advantages to the flip-out design.
They Are More Compact
Flip-out screens are a feature of single DIN units. That means they are compatible with a lot more vehicles, especially older vehicles. If you don’t have enough space for a double-DIN setup, but you still want a big screen, your options are limited. You either get a “floating screen” style unit or the flip-out style.
The advantage that flip-out screens have over floating screens is that they can be retracted. On older cars or cars that weren’t designed to have a display, a screen can block other things like the a/c controls. It’s nice to just retract the screen, make your adjustments, then bring it back.
They Attract Less Attention
Not everyone wants the world to know that they have a nice stereo. When you retract the screen on a flip-out, it looks just like any old cheap head unit. That’s good if you are trying to keep the look of your interior simple. If you want your original 90s ride to still look period correct, flip outs are a great option.
It’s also good if you are worried about people with sticky fingers. Thieves are much less likely to notice a nice stereo if it doesn’t have a giant screen advertising that it’s a nice piece of equipment. Many single DIN units even feature removable faceplates for extra security.
Inputs and Outputs
Probably the most important feature when choosing any head unit is the input. A stereo is mighty useless if it won’t play the songs you want to listen to. The second most important feature is output. If you have an amp driving a monster sub so you can shake the world, and you buy a head unit with no sub outputs, well, that’d be bad.
If you want to know more about inputs and outputs, head down to our complete buyer’s guide.
Common Inputs
Bluetooth
AM/FM Radio
HD Radio
AUX In
USB
Backup Camera
RCA
Common Outputs
High-level, your standard speaker wires
Low-level/RCA, your preamp outputs for an amplifier
Sub, a dedicated output for a subwoofer
Video
USB for charging
Android Auto and Apple CarPlay
If you use a cell phone, it’s probably an Android or Apple product. Each OS has its own dedicated car system for using apps, listening to music, and making calls while in motion. It’s uncommon to find these features in flip-out units. If you really value these apps, be prepared to shell out the money for units like the Pioneer 3400 head unit we recommend.
Quality
When we talk about quality concerning stereos, there are two main categories: sound quality and build quality. Sound quality is all about clarity of the audio and the amount of power you can get from the head unit. Build quality is pretty straightforward. How well do the buttons work, how fast it boots up, how many times can the screen retract before the hinges break, etc.
As a rule, you have to pay for quality. That also means sticking to bigger brands is a good idea if you want a reliable, good sounding unit. Unfortunately, many big brands, like JVC and Alpine, just don’t make flip-out options. All is not lost, though; we have a great range of quality and cost in the recommendation section.
The Little Things
Most of the major players all have the inputs and outputs you could want. To narrow down the best unit for your car, you have to look at the minor quality of life features. Things like: style, screen resolution, screen type, color, DVD/CD formats, USB charging, etc. Most of these things are secondary to function. If it doesn’t have the input you want, it doesn’t matter how good it looks.
There are a couple of little things that are worthy of a closer look. Steering wheel inputs are important if you have steering wheel controls and want to keep them. Equalizers are great for balancing your sound levels. Color-changing faceplates and background can help you add style to your dashboard.
There’s a lot of junk on the market, but we combed through everything and found ten great options for you.

Top 10 Best Flip Out Head Units 2020

1. Best Overall Flip-Out Head Unit: BOSS BV9979B

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Why we like it: BOSS nailed it with the perfect balance between a great price and a high number of functions without sacrificing build quality.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Preamp outputs
Aux, USB, SD, and Bluetooth inputs
Video output for extra screens
Equalizer
Remote control
Reasons to Buy
BOSS is a big name in the car audio world. If you check any of our articles on amps or speakers, you’ll see them come up. Usually, though, they never take the top spot. They are so well known for just being good enough. The price is right, but they never quite overcome the drawbacks of the sacrificed features to get that price.
The BV9989B is one of the exceptions. It’s not the highest quality, the Pioneer on this list easily eclipses it in that category. It isn’t the least expensive, that’d be the Regetek.
What it is is the perfect balance between them all. You get all the features that a high-end unit offers, like subwoofer outputs and video inputs. You get an easy to use touch screen that won’t snap off if you accidentally set your drink on it. It can even change color to match your interior.
It also has some great features that are rare on even the more expensive units. It has steering wheel inputs on the back, too. If you have steering wheel controls, it’s as simple as plugging in the right wires. It has automatic backup camera functionality and A/V inputs to hook up external players. If you ever wanted to pull up to a meet and chill out playing the original Forza on your dash, the BOSS gives you all the hookups.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
Even with all the praise we give the BOSS for its features, we can’t ignore a few issues that might cause you to look at other units. It has some minor inconveniences. The screen is not as high def as others, especially not compared to the Jensen down the list.
It’s also a bit slow. It’s not unusable or anything, but we live in a world where the average cell phone puts the computers of 10 years ago to shame. You will notice that the BOSS just takes a little while longer to do things like start and switch modes.
If you are an audiophile, though, the biggest problem you’ll have is sound quality. It’s not bad, but it doesn’t make the claimed 85-watts. It’s got low-level outputs, so it’s totally ready to be plugged into an amp. It just isn’t as powerful as most of the other options on the list.
It also doesn’t have the construction quality to produce ultra-clear sound, you will get distortion at higher volumes. Again, if you want better sound from this unit, run an amp. It’s basically begging for it.

Pros

Inexpensive
A lot of output options
The screen has good feedback and resolution
Lots of input options

Cons

Sound quality could be better
Load times can be slow, especially when switching inputs

2. Best Premium Flip-Out Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-3400

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Why we like it: The Pioneer AVH-3400 is one of the best sounding flip-out head units you can buy. It also comes with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
RCA outputs
Automatic and preset equalizer
Bluetooth
Full display customization
HD Radio ready
Pandora and Spotify ready
Android and Apple compatible
Reasons to Buy
When you travel around audio circles and see Pioneer, you know two things: the sound is going to be amazing, and it’s going to be expensive. The AVH-3400 is no exception.
It supports everything. Apple CarPlay and Android Auto? Yup. Satellite radio? Yup. Pandora and Spotify? They are installed on the unit, and you can run them off a WiFi signal without a cell phone present. It works with Siri, it has voice command calling, and you can plug any device into it.
The biggest reason to get the AV-3400 is quality. It is hands down the best sounding head unit on this list. It’s also the most well built. Pioneer wouldn’t put their name on it if it wasn’t.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
There are a few nitpicky things. The menus can be a little hard to navigate. There’s a lot of features, and some of them are buried under layers of menus. Also, it is a bit hard to use with the screen closed. If that seems like a really minor complaint, that is because it is. It’s hard to criticize such a nice stereo head unit. The only way to get better options is to leave the single-din world behind.
Except for the most significant drawback that the Pioneer has, that is. You could buy 4 BOSS units for the same price. Now, we are not saying that the audio and build quality isn’t worth it. If sound is your passion, there’s no reason to compromise. It just hurts to see the number.

Pros

Amazing quality
Apple Car Play and Android Auto read
Full range of inputs, including HD radio
Full range of outputs

Cons

Very expensive
Buttons are hard to press when the screen is closed

3. Best Budget Flip Out-Head Unit: Regetek 7”

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Why we like it: The Regetek is a perfectly acceptable head unit with an ok screen that is less than $100.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
USB Fast Charger
No CD/DVD player
Subwoofer output
Reasons to Buy
Let’s start with the best part about the Regetek: it’s cheap. We are talking less than half the price of most things on this list cheap. It’s also simple. Really simple. Once you pair your phone with it, that’s pretty much the end of the interactions. Your phone will be doing all the hard work.
Despite being cheap, the Regetek has some really neat features. It’s ready to accept a backup camera, and you can hook up additional screens. The screen resolution is actually one of the highest on this list, boasting full HD. It’s not, but it still has a nice screen for the price. See our note here on resolutions.
The audio quality is fine too. It’s not top tier, and you can’t play CDs, but unlike a lot of other units, it accepts FLAC as an audio format. Honestly, the Regetek really represents how far cheap gadgets have come over the last decade. It’s a generic, cheap head unit, but it can do most of the things that the big players can do.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
When you think of sacrifices to make in order to cut costs, a lot of things come to mind. Regetek chose as many of them as they could, and it shows. The screen is low resolution, there are no apps, and you have to pull out the screen manually. That last one is a little insane and might be a deal-breaker. It just can’t do very much, especially not compared to other budget units like the BOSS or the Power Acoustik.

Pros

Inexpensive
Supports FLAC
Has reverse camera input

Cons

Very low on features
Screen has to be pulled out manually

4. Best Easy To Use Flip-Out Head Unit: Power Acoustik PID-8920B

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Why we like it: The Power Acoustic has big friendly icons and a great, easy to use interface.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
Subwoofer outputs
Backup camera inputs
USB, SD, and Aux inputs
Reasons to Buy
It’s hard not to compare the Power Acoustik directly to the BOSS. They occupy the same price point, have similar features, and look very similar. When you compare them, it becomes obvious why the BOSS deserved a top spot, but the Power Acoustik doesn’t. There isn’t much that the Power Acoustik does better.
It does shine through in a few areas. It’s easier to use than the BOSS. BOSS has a bit of a habit of over-simplifying their menus to the point of frustration. In contrast, the Power Acoustic has big friendly icons and straightforward settings. Part of the reason the Power Acoustic is easier to use is that it’s much simpler. That’s a good thing if you just want to listen to your music and not fiddle with anything. If you never touch the bass EQ on your current unit and want to upgrade to a CD/DVD player with a screen, then the PID is an excellent purchase.
Power Acoustik is a brand carried by a lot of companies, used by a lot of people, and very well documented online. That’s often the deciding factor when it comes to these picking a head unit. A more popular unit is just less likely to cause you trouble, and don’t you have enough trouble in your life?
Reasons to Pick Something Else
Like we said above, there isn’t much that the Power Acoustic does better than the BOSS. It only has bass preamp outputs, not the full range. It doesn’t have steering inputs, and it doesn’t have BOSS’s online support.
The biggest reason to shy away from this unit is the simplicity we mentioned above. If you like simple, then it’s not an issue. If you want control over your sound profiles, though, then you are out of luck. This is the only flip-out head on this list without an equalizer.

Pros

Inexpensive
Very easy to use
The software is very clean and nice-looking

Cons

Low on input and output options
No equalizer

5. Best Looking Flip-Out Head Unit: Pyle In Dash 7”

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Why we like it: It’s a very good looking device that delivers a good amount of power.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
Smart device compatibility
High powered for a head unit
RCA outputs
Backup camera support
HD radio capable
Reasons to Buy
The first thing that stands out about this in-dash entertainment system is that it looks great. Even with the screen tucked away, it’s got a modern, carbon-fiber finish. It’s also got all the right features: low-level outputs, backup camera support, sound profile settings, etc. You won’t be left wanting.
The other thing you will really enjoy about the Pyle is the screen. It’s a little old school nowadays, but they put a lot of effort into the full-color display. Don’t be fooled; they claim “HD” but there’s actually nothing on this list with a true HD display, except for maybe the Pioneer here that uses your own phone as the screen. We wrote about that down the page. What it does have is a really nice screen driver that allows for a ton of color and sharpness.
You can also change the face colors and the screen backgrounds, so it fits your dash theme. Like we said, this is a good looking unit no matter how you slice it. If you have trouble deciding between a few different options, that style might be enough to sway you.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
It costs too much for what it is. At the risk of being too blunt, the reason it doesn’t rank higher is because of the price. Yes, it does everything you can want, and it has good quality, but so does the BOSS.The BOSS costs a lot less, though.
The Pyle can also be a bit frustrating. The Bluetooth isn’t as advanced as other options, especially not the Jensen on our list. That leads to annoying things like having to reconnect every time you power the unit on. Having a picky Bluetooth system wouldn’t be a deal-breaker if not for the fact that you will really be relying on it. It doesn’t have very many inputs. There’s no SD slot or RCA input, so you will really need that Bluetooth for modern audio streaming.

Pros

Good looking
Good audio quality
High powered

Cons

Bluetooth can be picky
Expensive for the quality

6. Best Alternative Budget Flip-Out Unit: Sound Storm Labs SD726

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Why we like it: The Sound Storm is a budget option with a CD/DVD player and good audio control.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
SD, USB, and Aux inputs
Backup camera compatibility
Steering wheel control
Full preamp outputs
Reasons to Buy
If you saw the price and features of the Regetek, but couldn’t stand the idea of not having a CD/DVD player, then the Sound Storm is perfect. In addition to the CD/DVD player, Sound Storm also gives you a full set of low-level outputs to hook it straight into your amplifiers.
It’s also a good unit if you want something that looks way more expensive than it is. Unlike a lot of the straight from China, brand swappable units all over the internet, the Sound Storm has bold logos and bright lights. The screen is nice enough, and the software is a bit more polished than the generic Android-based systems that you find when you go too cheap.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
The SSL will do what you need if you want a basic unit with an ok screen that doesn’t cost very much. If that’s what you are looking for, stop reading and buy it. You’ll be fine.
What you really can’t expect from it is good quality. The audio signal isn’t noise-free, so you will get distortion at higher volumes. It’s built to be cheap, too, so the buttons and knobs feel cheap. The screen wobbles sometimes and isn’t as sturdy as you probably want it to be. In short, the whole thing feels cheap because it is. We hate to keep repping the BOSS, but if you want just a bit more quality, spend a bit more and get the BOSS.
It does have a 3-year warranty. Even if it feels cheap, you can at least rest easy knowing that it’s simple to replace if it does break.

Pros

Inexpensive
low-level outputs
3-year warranty

Cons

Build quality isn’t great
Audio quality isn’t great either

7. Best Bluetooth Focused Flip-Out Unit: Jensen CMR3710

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Why we like it: The Jensen has no CD/DVD player and no extra inputs. It focuses on being a Bluetooth powerhouse.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
Backup camera compatible
Preamp outputs
Robust equalizer
Reasons to Buy
The Jensen CMR3710 is a solid unit with good audio quality. It compares most easily to the Regetek. They both don’t have a CD/DVD player, and they both focus on Bluetooth. The Jensen is just a higher quality option. It’s built better and has better audio quality. The screen is nicer, the outputs have less noise, and it’s better suited for running amplifiers.
The Bluetooth is excellent. It’s just a bit easier to use than everything else, has a bigger range, and the software controls on the screen are really well done. It’s effortless to make calls. This is probably the only unit that rivals apps like CarPlay and Android Auto in terms of phone controls.
Finally, the audio quality is really good for the price. It’s not Pioneer good, but it’s better than the BOSS. That’s helped by the fact that the Jensen has an 8-band EQ and a 6-channel low-level output. If you are running amplifiers, the Jensen is ready.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
The first thing is a little bit of a strange one. Jensen is a good company that used to be well known for its great audio components. In fact, if you bought a new Jeep in the 80s or early 90s, it would have a Jensen stereo system. Since the early 90s, though, they have been bought and sold a lot. Most recently, they became a subsidiary of Dual, who is BOSS’s biggest competitor.
That’s a lot of exposition all to say that it can be hard to find support for Jensen units nowadays, and their quality control is not as good as it once was. They have online support that will replace units that break, but don’t expect to troubleshoot an issue with customer service, and don’t expect your friends to know what the heck it is.
Also, the parking brake safety feature can make you want to hit things. It has a wire that needs to be connected to a parking brake switch so that it locks you out of some features while you are driving. That’s not unusual; almost every head unit does that. The Jensen is just a little bit draconian about it. You’ll be searching for a way to disable it after about a week of using it.

Pros

Very nice screen
Good software
Bluetooth works great

Cons

Jensen does not have very much support
Parking brake safety feature can be picky

8. Best Cheap Total Package: CarThree Single DIN Touch Screen with Backup Camera

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Why we like it: This super cheap unit comes with a backup camera.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
Backup camera included
A/V inputs
USB and Aux input
Subwoofer output
Reasons to Buy
The CarThree 7 inch has a surprisingly good screen for such an inexpensive option. I mean, sure, you have to push the screen in manually just like the Regetek, but it looks good for being so cheap. Cheap is the operative word. The whole box with the camera and the unit is less than everything else on the list.
That’s really all there is to it. It’s super cheap, plays music, and includes a backup camera in the box. Enough said.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
On some level, every person knows what they are getting into when they buy a cheap piece of generic tech. The quality might be exceptional, but it also might be garbage. It depends on the day. The software will be slow, the audio quality will be meh, and there will be strange little problems here and there. If you are in a hurry to watch the 2 Fast 2 Furious in your car while waiting for a mocha frappe, don’t rely on this unit.
This head unit is a fine choice for bargain hunters looking for a lot of features at an impossibly low price. Just know what you are getting into. It’s not meant to be high quality. It’s meant to be cheap. Spend the extra on the BOSS if you want everything to be easy, or shell out big money for the Pioneer.

Pros

Cheap
Includes a backup camera
Has a decent screen

Cons

Cheap
Limited customer support

9. Best Ultra-Compact Head Unit: Pioneer SPH10BT

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Why we like it: It uses your phone as the screen, meaning it’s likely the highest quality, most feature-rich screen on the list.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
No CD, Aux, or SD input
Bluetooth
Fast charge USB port
Pop-out phone cradle
Reasons to Buy
This is another Pioneer for the list, but it’s totally different from the audio behemoth above. First of all, it’s ¼ the price. Second, it’s incredibly, incredibly simple. It’s a box with 6 buttons. That’s it. It doesn’t even have a screen. That might make it a weird thing to include on this list, but let us explain.
Instead of a screen, it has a retractable cradle for your phone. It turns the phone you already have into the ultimate audio head unit using Bluetooth. If you have a modern cell phone, that means this little unit actually has the best resolution and processing power on the list.
Since it’s Pioneer, you know the sound quality and build quality is solid. It automatically syncs with your phone. The buttons on the front of the device can control your phone, and it comes with special software that makes it easier to use your phone as a DJ station. If you don’t care about any features and just want to Bluetooth in and listen to your tunes, here you go.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
It’s got no screen, for one thing. On a list of head units that have screens, it’s sort of an issue that it doesn’t have one. If you don’t want to use your cellphone as a central component of your car’s audio system, then get the Jensen instead. It’s got great Bluetooth capabilities and actually has a screen.
It’s also, somewhat surprisingly, not very good if you want to run a bunch of amps. You’d think Pioneer would make a product that worked well for audio nuts, but they really strived to keep the SPH simple and friendly. They sacrificed a lot of inputs and outputs to do that. If you have your heart set on driving a ton of amplifiers to get the best audio quality possible, then we are sorry. You’ll be spending the money on the other Pioneer above.

Pros

Ultra-simple to use
Good audio quality
Inexpensive

Cons

No built-in screen
No low-level outputs

10. Best Single DIN Flip-Out Alternative: Camecho Single DIN Car Stereo

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Why we like it: The Camecho is a bit of an insane pick. It’s a single DIN unit with a backup camera, but the screen is in the face rather than a fold-out.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
USB, Micro SD, and Aux inputs
Backup camera included
Ultra-compact
Reasons to Buy
We talked about the pros and cons of generic electronics when we broke down the CarThree. This has all the same ideas. In fact, as if to drive home the point, it uses the same remote and backup camera as the CarThree despite calling itself a Comecho.
What makes the Camecho really interesting is that it has all the advantages of a single DIN flip-out screen. It’s compact, has a screen that doesn’t interfere with anything, and adds modern features to older cars. The difference is that it doesn’t have a flip-out screen. It just has a tiny screen built into the front.
The lack of a flip-out screen makes this thing cheap. Like really, really cheap. You could buy two of these for the price of the already very reasonable Regetek.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
Take everything bad we said about the CarThree and amplify it. It’s harder to use and even harder to figure out. It’s got a ton of unlabeled buttons, and some of the menus have poor English. You’ll spend a lot of time just trying things out. This isn’t a unit for someone that just wants something that works. If that’s all you want, get the BOSS, like we keep saying.
The screen is also tiny. That’s the big downside to the lack of a flip-out. Yeah, it’s a single DIN with a screen, but you’ll have to push your face into it to tell what’s going on. That’s not conducive to safe driving.

Pros

Cheap
Includes a backup camera
Ultra-compact

Cons

Terrible documentation
Screen is tiny

All About Head Units
We gave a brief overview in the beginning, but there’s where it gets complicated. Audio components are a mess of numbers and acronyms. Unless you have experience with them, it can get very confusing quickly, so we wrote this section to decode and demystify all the jargon.
Inputs
To say that audio formats have evolved over the last couple of decades would be the understatement of the year. Car audio went from tapes, to CDs, to DVDs, to ⅛” auxiliary, to Bluetooth, and finally to dedicated car apps in a blink.
Nowadays, the average head unit has to cover so many bases it can be hard to keep track of what it can and can’t do. It can be even harder to know what format you want and which ones you don’t need, and whether you should adapt to a head unit or buy one that suits you. Let’s take a second to break down the more popular inputs.
Radio
AM/FM radio has been around since the late 1800s and is still used today to transmit music and information. It probably won’t be going anywhere since it’s still the primary way to find information on roads and emergency situations.
A common antenna is all you need to receive AM/FM radio. HD radio is a much newer invention. It’s usually transmitted from satellites, and you do need a special antenna. You also need to pay for a subscription. It works around the world. If you regularly drive to areas that don’t have cell connectivity and are remote enough that radio doesn’t reach you, you can still get satellite.
CD/DVD
The oldest technology you’ll find in modern head units are CD/DVD players. Physical media has been on its way out for a while, and we are starting to see companies offer models without them altogether. Budget units especially, like the Regetek we recommend, choose to cut costs and complexity by removing the CD/DVD drive.
That has a couple benefits. First, a unit with a CD/DVD drive must be at least as big as a CD/DVD, whereas one without can be smaller. Second, the engineers can dedicate more power and processing to Bluetooth, which is honestly what most people care about nowadays.
USB/SD
USB, and SD card, inputs occupy a weird space in audio. They were meant to be the evolution of CDs and DVDs as physical media. They were competing with other forms of media that didn’t require a physical device, though. They never became very popular.
However, if you want to store a lot of ultra high-quality music files, like a library of FLAC, or a lot of movies, then a USB drive can be nice. It can also be helpful if your phone is dead since a card or USB drive works without extra power. Most people will simply use the USB on a head unit to charge their phone, though.
AUX
It’s easiest to think of AUX inputs the same way you think of wired earbuds or headphones. The head unit and much larger car speakers simply take the place of the much smaller speakers in earbuds. That means any device you can use earbuds for, you can use to play music through your car.
You will need to get an aux audio cable that fits the device and the head unit. Usually, both sides are ⅛”, but sometimes phones have micro ports or don’t have a headphone jack at all.
Bluetooth
Bluetooth is a form of wireless communication between devices. If you are using the internet, then chances are you have a Bluetooth device somewhere nearby. That’s why it makes so much sense that car audio began to focus on Bluetooth. You can load music files on your phone or stream music straight to the head unit without wires getting in your way.
Android Auto/Apple CarPlay
The newest players on the list are dedicated programs that integrate seamlessly with a cell phone. Unfortunately, it’s pretty rare in the flip-out scene. The only one we recommend is the Pioneer AVH-3400.
Built-In Apps
Some head units, like our premium pick, have apps and services pre-installed onto them. Pandora radio and Spotify are the two most common, but other streaming services or brand-specific programs pop up from time to time. It’s nice if you can get WiFi or cell service where you are, but they don’t tend to be as convenient as phone driven services.
A/V Inputs
Extra audio and video inputs, usually “component” or RCA inputs, can allow you to do cool things like run a video game console or backup camera.
Outputs
Outputs are less varied than inputs, but they are still an important thing to consider. The biggest consideration surrounds the rest of your audio system. If you want to run dedicated amps or high-quality speakers, you will need to make sure that the head unit has the right outputs and power ratings.
High-level vs. Low-level
High-level outputs are just your standard speaker outputs. It’s a thin wire that connects directly to a speaker. It’s also how a factory sound system hooks everything together. If you don’t want to change anything, then it’s fine to just have speaker level outputs. All head units have high-level outputs, even the CarThree piece of… fine audio tech.
Low Level, also called preamp or RCA, are for connecting your head unit directly to an amplifier. Many amplifiers don’t have high-level inputs. That makes it super important to make sure that a unit has low-level outputs if you want to drive big subs or get loud. The BOSS we recommend has front, rear, and low-level subwoofer outputs, covering all your bases.
Most aftermarket head units will have low-level outputs for a monoblock amp to power a subwoofer at the very least. The budget-friendly Regetek has high-level outputs and a dedicated subwoofer low-level output, for instance. That’s a great compromise between amping an entire system and losing out on that sweet bass.
Wattage
Whenever anyone talks about watts, it’s essential to make the distinction between RMS and peak power. Peak wattage is not a very useful measurement, it’s just a big number that advertisers like to put on the box. The problem is that peak only represents what the amp or head unit can do for a very short time.
The unit wouldn’t even last one song sustaining that level, no matter what the box says. The BOSS we recommend up there likes to claim 85-watts on the box, but the actual output is lower because 85 is just the peak.
RMS is the average power level that an amp can sustain. Most head units don’t produce very much power on their own. That saves you the trouble of having to match speakers to the power rating. Most factory speakers and entry-level aftermarket speakers are simply in the range of the average head unit.
The minute you start looking into the world of amplifiers, it becomes important to match wattages. Here’s a great article from elsewhere online that breaks it down. They mostly talk home theater audio there, but the concepts are identical.
Video
Since a car has to be an entire entertainment system nowadays, it makes sense that modern head units can control audio and video. That way, if you put in a DVD, or stream Netflix, you can use the head unit to power a bigger screen in addition to the tiny one they come with. Many companies make headrest or flip-down screens that can be used to entertain passengers. It’s important to look for video out if you want to make your car a theater. Generally, any “do all” head unit will have RCA out, like the BOSS we pretty much constantly refer to.
A Primer on Screens
Screen specifications come in two main flavors: the type and the resolution. The type is easy enough. There aren’t very many different types, and with modern technology, you likely won’t notice any differences unless you have them side by side.
It does get confusing since manufacturers like to name their screens in a way that sounds good. That can mean that two different makers will call the same type of screen different things. Tom’s hardware has a rundown on them here, if you are curious.
It’s honestly best to not worry about it very much. You aren’t buying a flip-out screen to get an amazing screen. If you really want the best quality video, get a floating screen or double DIN unit. Resolution is another matter, though. The higher the pixel density, the better the image will look.
Resolution
Screens can get confusing since, just like with wattage, manufacturers like to give you the best sounding numbers. Those numbers aren’t usually the most useful, though. The Jensen on our list boasts a meager 800×480 resolution on the box, and the letters HD don’t even appear. The Pyle, however, has the amazing 1440×234 display as high definition. You might be inclined to think that the Pyle is the clear victor here, right?
Except if you do some quick math, the Jensen has 384k pixels. Compare that to the Pyle’s 336k, and the Jensen has higher pixel density. The image will be sharper and look better on the Jensen. That doesn’t make the Pyle bad. It’s still a good looking screen. Just be aware that it’s never as simple as what the marketing department wants you to think.
Something to keep in mind is that no matter what, you aren’t getting an amazing screen. That just isn’t an option in flip outs, they have to be lightweight and low powered. It’s tough because your average cell phone has incredible resolution by comparison.
An iPhone XR has a resolution of 1792×828. That’s over 1.4 million pixels, several times more than even the best flip-out. It’s why we weren’t just being cheeky when we said the Pioneer SPH that uses your cell phone as a screen is probably the best looking screen on any unit.
Upgrade Your Factory Head Unit ASAP
No matter what, even if you grab the funky error-riddled Camecho, you are getting a big upgrade on the average factory single DIN system. So don’t worry too much about choosing the perfect head. Go with your gut; select the one that speaks to you after making sure it has the inputs and outputs you want.
You have the power to turn your commute into a zen experience after splicing in some wires. Maybe get in a few episodes of your favorite baking show during your lunch break. You do you. Just do you with better audio than the average old stereo. More

There are people out there who like it when their cars look beat up. Gambler racers, 24 hours of LeMons, your weird uncle who calls it “derelict style.” Most people don’t and would prefer their car to remain undented. Dents are an inescapable part of life, however. It’s a good thing that a bunch of companies make excellent products to unbend your car.

Tapping Out the Dent Repair Kit Basics
Traditionally, dent repair uses welders, grinders, and men with masks to cut out the offending panels and replace them. Fortunately, the modern era has brought us a ton of options for the home DIYer. Most of the options won’t even hurt your paint.
If you already know what you’re doing, you can jump straight ahead to our product list to find what you need.
PDR
PDR stands for paintless dent repair. That’s because you don’t have to repaint your car after you use the tools. There are two ways to do a paintless dent repair.
Push on the Dent From Behind
Take a tool, get it behind the dent, and pound the dent out. If you can get the piece of bodywork off the car, then hammers like the Neiko set on the list work great.
If you can’t, long thin tools like the Mookis are your answer. They can get in and behind dents. Then you either beat on the rods with a hammer or pry against things to give you a mechanical advantage.
Compared to the pulling tools, they take way more experience and practice to use right. You can use them to make any shape you want, which makes the training worth it if you are serious about doing a lot of bodywork.
Pull the Dent Out From the Face
The second style of dent removal comes in the form of pulling on the dent. Modern glues are fantastic. To grip the dent, so to speak, you glue studs to the surface.
You can also use a suction up. In traditional dent removal, you would weld studs onto the surface or drill holes to set anchors where you destroy the paint. Unless you really have a nasty dent, you don’t need to destroy the paint.
Kinds of Pullers
When you get a dent kit, it will come with some kind of tool for pulling on the dent out. There are four main types.
T-Bar or Slide Hammer
A T-bar or other style of slide hammer is used to apply a lot of force in a quick, sharp motion. When you slide the weight up the handle, it strikes a stop that jerks the tool away from whatever it’s attached to. It takes some practice to use right, but it can offer a lot more fine control and doesn’t require the amount of space that other tools need. The T-bar also doubles as a handle for pulling with good old manual force.
Bridge Type Puller
A bridge puller has two or more feet attached to stand-offs and holds a bolt suspended over your dent. It bridges the gap over the dent, hence the name. You glue the pad to the dent, attach it to the bolt, then start unscrewing the bolt. As it rises through the device, it will pull the dent out. These are very simple and intuitive; they just take a while to set up.
Squeeze Style
These tools go by many names, but basically, they have two arms that you squeeze together to pull up on the glued tab. You get more leverage than just pulling by hand, and it’s faster than a bridge-style puller.
Suction Cup
Suction cup style tools are the most basic, least effective tools on the market. They only work on dents that are a certain shape, and they will never have the control or versatility that other types have. They are ridiculously cheap though, so it doesn’t hurt to try them out.
What’s in the Box?
Kits never include absolutely everything. Even Ikea expects you to have a small hammer, so when you look for a PDR kit, you know that something is going to be missing.
The most complete kit on our list is the Anyyion – but they sell a kit that is even bigger and includes multiple sizes of hammer. It’s gigantic, yet it still doesn’t include a Phillips screwdriver for adjusting the puller tension.
The point is that you will have to choose what tools you are willing to source elsewhere. If the kit doesn’t include a glue gun, you will need to provide your own. If it doesn’t come with a slide hammer, you will have to decide if you need one or not.
Is it Easy to Use?
Let’s face it, the whole point of buying a kit is to make the dent disappear as easy as possible. Different types of tools are inherently more straightforward than others. Bridge type tools are easier to use than body hammers, but the easier it is to use, the less versatile it is. You won’t be able to fix as many types and kinds of dents with easier to use kits.
There are all sorts of kits that span the entire quality and price spectrum. One of the nice things about the kits on this list is that even the lower quality ones have a lot of value, so you can’t go wrong. If you get a kit that doesn’t do exactly what you want, it’s easy to simply add a few things here and there and make it perfect.

Top 10 Best Dent Repair Kits 2020

1. Best PDR Kit Overall: Gliston Auto Dent Puller Kit

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Why we like it: Gliston’s kit is the perfect balance between ease of use, price, and the completeness of the kit. If you only want to order one item and get right into repair, Gliston has you covered.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
Inside the box is everything you need to get straight to work, minus a few small hand tools. You get the glue gun, a squeeze type puller, a variety of pads, a hammer, glue, scrapers, and a few small punches.
You also get a cheap, nearly useless bridge tool that you probably won’t use. It’s not as complete as a monster kit like the Anyyion, but it doesn’t lack anything you need.
Our only suggestion is to pick up some better scraping tools, like these plastic chisels. The good news is that any extras will fit in the generous canvas bag they include with the kit.
How Easy Is It to Use?
We are confident anyone could get good results from this kit. The squeeze type “Golden Dent Remover” is about as easy to use as they come. Unless you need to do a lot of shaping, it is as easy as glue and squeeze. Just remember to work slowly; these types of dent pullers work best in small areas. It’ll work out big dents, but only if you do it a little at a time.
Our Thoughts
There are more complete kits, like the Anyyion, and there are less expensive kits, like the Arisd, but none have the value that Gliston brings. That value comes in two forms.
First, the quality is good. The tool is metal and well built, the tabs are thick and not likely to fail, and the glue gun melts glue. That’s honestly all you can ever really ask from a hot glue gun. The second thing that gives it value is the fact that it includes enough stuff in the kit to just get right into pulling dents.
We do have a few things to nitpick. We always do; being an expert nitpicker is in the job description, so don’t go thinking there’s something badly wrong just because we criticize it. The instructions that Gliston includes are garbage. Get online and watch other people use it on forums or youtube, and throw away the paper it comes with.
Also, the kit is complete, but it could really use a better scraper. Oh, and the bridge tool is not the best. That’s fine, honestly. Just use the Golden Lifter instead and get a Manelord bridge tool if you really need one.

Pros

Amazing value
Includes everything you need
Dent puller is super easy to use

Cons

Included instructions are garbage
It would be nice if they had better scrapers

2. Best Premium PDR Kit: Anyyion 69pc PDR Kit

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Why we like it: The Anyyion kit has absolutely everything you need, and a case to carry it in.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
Everything. Or rather, everything but a bridge puller. That’s fine because you get a squeeze puller and a slide hammer. Those tools, along with the massive selection of tabs, will cover any dent that can be fixed by a puller. The glue gun is good, the hammer and sets are good, and you get a toolbox to store it all in.
How Easy Is It to Use?
It may seem like the most challenging part of using this kit is choosing how to tackle the problem. There’s a lot of options, and knowing which method for which dent does take a lot of work. The truth is that the hardest part is getting familiar with the T-bar. The whole kit just takes more thinking and practice than the Gliston or Manelord bridge kit.
Our Thoughts
Excuse us for a minute while we talk about something incredibly boring. Keeping organized, especially when you have a set of tools with many tiny parts, is hard. It will ruin your whole day if you go to grab a tool and it’s missing a single nib that you need right now. The fact that Anyyion includes a nice toolbox to store their entire kit in says a lot about their product: they get it. They make sure there’s no excuse for not staying organized.
The big ouch moment comes when you see the price because it’s twice as much as everything else on the list. That can make it hard to justify. The AUTOPDR kit also has a case and a cheap bridge tool. It’s half the price and will work fine once or twice. If you need higher quality, especially if you plan on doing a lot of bodywork, you won’t be disappointed with this kit despite the cost.

Pros

Includes everything you need
Comes in a carrying case
Tools are high quality

Cons

Expensive
Not as easy to use as other kits

3. Best Bridge-Style PDR Kit: Manelord Auto Body Repair Tool

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Why we like it: This is the best bridge tool on our list. If you’re looking for that specific tool, this is the one to buy.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
You get a bridge tool and some tabs. That leaves you to source your own glue gun and glue, which is not ideal. The bridge tool is the best on our list, though. It’s well built and is more comfortable to use than other bridge tools, like the one included in our budget pick Yoohe kit.
How Easy Is It to Use?
Bridge tools are super easy to use already, but Manelord makes it even easier by designing a bridge tool with quick-connect tabs. The only reason it’s not the easiest thing to use on our list is because of the fact that you have to source your own glue and a glue gun. That can be tough; if you get the wrong glue, you won’t get the most out of the tool.
Our Thoughts
The Manelord bridge tool is high quality, easy to use, and relatively inexpensive. It really demonstrates the best reasons to get bridge tools over other tools. There are better tools for big dents, but none are as easy to use or as inexpensive.
The fact it is so good at being a bridge tool also means that it also exemplifies the downsides of bridge tools. It takes forever to use compared to other tools, for one thing. It also isn’t good for spanning larger dents. If you have large dents, get a slide hammer kit like the Manelord one we recommend here. It’s not a coincidence that you see the brand Manelord a lot on our list. They make great quality bodywork tools.

Pros

High Quality
Well designed
Inexpensive

Cons

Does not include a glue gun. They do sell a kit with one, but it’s rarely in stock.
It’s not good for big dents

4. Best Hammer and Dolly Set: Neiko 20709A

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Why we like it: If you are serious about bodywork, you need a set of hammers. This one is great.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
A hammer is used to pound the metal against a shaped anvil looking thing called a dolly. The hammers have different shapes, so you can use them to stretch or dimple the metal in different ways. The dollies are curved to allow you to bend the metal into different shapes. This kit has 4 dollies and 3 hammers for a total of 8 dolly shapes and 6 hammer shapes. That should keep you busy.
How Easy Is It to Use?
The Neiko hammer set is not easy to use. Other than the fact that a hammer works like a hammer and everyone knows how to use one, there is nothing intuitive or straightforward about shaping metal. It takes practice, patience, and a willingness to mess up horribly for a while.
That being said, if you are serious about dent removal and are willing to take the time to learn, you can do anything with this set. For instance, tab pullers can’t do anything for a crease. A hammer can work it out, no problem.
Our Thoughts
The Neiko kit includes everything you need to get started in autobody work. In a case too, which is nice. Just don’t make the mistake of thinking that you will buy this and suddenly be the next Foose. It takes time to build up the skills to shape metal.
It’s also important to note that this is a good starter set, not professional tools. It’s cheap and works fine, but the quality is nowhere near acceptable for a full body shop.
You’ll also want to pair it with some dent removal rods. You don’t have to splurge on the Mookis rods we recommend; as there are plenty of cheaper ones that work ok. They are essential for working on the metal you can’t reach, though.

Pros

The set gives you a good amount of shaping options
Inexpensive
Comes in a carrying case

Cons

Not easy to use at all
Quality could be better

5. Best Budget PDR Kit: Yoohe 22pc

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Why we like it: The Yoohe kit here comes with a bridge tool, pads, and a glue gun. That’s everything you need for basic dent repair.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
The kit includes a bridge tool, glue, glue gun, and some pads. That’s a pretty spartan kit compared to others, but it’s honestly all you need. If you already have a glue gun, save $5 and get a bridge kit without it. Although, $5 for a hot glue gun is a pretty good deal, so you might as well grab it.
How Easy Is It to Use?
It’s hard to find an easier kit, honestly. One of the biggest advantages of a bridge style tool over one of the squeeze tools is how intuitive they are to use. The main part of the device is a big screw. If you handed it to a toddler, they would figure out how to operate it. Except for the glue gun. Don’t give toddlers hot glue guns.
The downside is that it takes a long time. A squeeze tool is just like, click, and squeeze. A bridge tool is all like “turn, turn, turn, turn, dangit my wrist is tired.”
Our Thoughts
We’ll head off the first issue right out of the gate. There is a suction cup tool here that is way cheaper. So why is this our budget pick?
It’s because this kit is a complete kit, one, and it will actually work for a variety of dents, two. A suction cup device is cheap because it doesn’t work very well. You get what you pay for, as it were.
Speaking of which, we have another bridge style kit on our list here. That one is higher quality, easier to use, and not much more expensive. If you just want to test the waters, the Yoohe is fine. Just don’t expect Snap-On quality from Harbor Freight prices.

Pros

Complete kit with glue gun
Very easy to use
Inexpensive

Cons

Quality could be better
Takes a while to get dents out

6. Best Versatile PDR Kit: AUTOPDR 48pc

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Why we like it: This kit has both styles of easy to use dent puller and a hot glue gun. Then they stuff it into a soft case so you won’t lose anything.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
You get a punch, a glue gun, tons of tab shapes, a hammer, a bridge-style puller, and a squeeze style puller in the kit. That’s pretty much the entire range of tools in the PDR department. The only thing you might be left wondering about is where is the slide hammer.
If you really need a slide hammer, though, it’s not that this kit is missing it. It’s just that you should buy a different kit more suited for larger dents like the Anyyion above.
How Easy Is It to Use?
You honestly couldn’t ask for better. It has both the incredibly intuitive bridge puller and the clamp and squeeze type of puller. Like with the Gliston, you could stand to get a better scraper to make your life a little easier. This kit comes in a case, though, so not only is it easy to use, it’s easy to clean up.
Our Thoughts
We love it when tools come with their own case. We love it when PDR kits come with the glue gun. We love being able to choose between the ant jaw clamping squeezy tool and the traditional bridge puller. There’s just a lot to love when it comes to AUTOPDR’s offering.
The direct comparison for the AUTOPDR kit is the Gliston, and, unfortunately, that’s when our love runs out. It’s just not nearly as high quality, and it’s only a little cheaper. The bridge tool is better in the AUTOPDR kit, so if that’s important to you, then definitely go with this one. If you can get together another $10, though, the Gliston will last longer and be a little less frustrating.

Pros

It’s a very complete kit
The bridge tool is better than the Gliston kit’s
Very easy to use

Cons

The general quality isn’t very high
Not very good for large dents

7. Best T-Bar Puller Kit: Manelord T-Bar with Upgrade Tabs

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Why we like it: A T-bar is a super versatile tool, and this kit comes with a bunch of tab options to make dent pulling easy.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
Inside this kit, you get a T-bar and some tabs to pull on with it. You don’t get an easy to use pulling tool, you don’t get glue or a glue gun, and you certainly don’t get a case to carry it around in. If you need a T-bar and want to make sure it includes some extras, it’s perfect. If you want the whole kit, the much more expensive Anyyion is up top.
How Easy Is It to Use?
Using a T-bar or any slide hammer takes some practice. It’s nowhere near as simple as using a bridge tool or a squeeze tool. It’s a lot more versatile, though. Slide hammers can be used in places where there is no other surface to pry against. That means, unlike bridge or squeeze tools, you can use them on large dents and work very quickly. Usually, you’ll want to glue on a lot of tabs ahead of time. You move the tool around a lot from tab to tab and slowly pull out a huge area.
Our Thoughts
Let us just come right out and say it, if you are serious about dent repair, you need a T-bar. They aren’t easy to use, and they aren’t as cool as one of the alien mandible-looking doohickies, but they work on areas where everything else won’t.
We do wish it had a glue gun and glue in the kit. It just makes things a lot nicer when you don’t have to source the glue. That being said, this isn’t really a beginner kit. This kit is more for someone that already has a beginner kit and wants to up their game, and in that regard, it’s fantastic.
Like, if you bought the Gliston and found a dent that’s just a little bigger than you want to tackle with the Gold Puller, pick up this one here. It’s still a little cheaper to do it that way than to buy the Anyyion kit that includes one. Plus, you can build your kit over time instead of relying on a random company to do it for you.

Pros

Great tool for tackling large dents
Includes high-quality pull tabs
Makes a great addition to other kits

Cons

Takes some time to learn to use
Doesn’t include glue

8. Best Inexpensive Complete PDR Kit: ARISD 32pc

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Why we like it: ARISD is a perfect kit for someone that is on a tight budget but still wants a squeeze style tool.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
The box contains an inexpensive puller, glue gun, bridge tool, and a handful of bits and pieces. It’s not as complete as anything else, really, even the AUTOPDR kit is more comprehensive. It does include everything you need to just jump in and do it though.
How Easy Is It to Use?
The ARISD kit is very easy to use except one thing: you might not have the tool you want to use in the kit. Not a total deal-breaker or anything. It’s just that you might find yourself reaching for a hammer that isn’t there, unlike more complete, more expensive kits. That can lead to some hair pulling, which is never easy to deal with.
Our Thoughts
This kit is cheap. If you’re wanting to fix a few dents on your daily and don’t really care about getting a high-quality tool, it’s perfect. The quality will really let you down if you want to do a lot of dent repair. The bridge tool is pretty bad, the squeeze tool rattles, and the scrapers aren’t great.
It’s still a better thing to buy than a suction cup puller, despite what the internet might tell you. You will really get a good feel for whether or not pulling dents is something you want to do, or if you should take it to a shop instead. This is one of the few budget kits that include a squeeze style dent lifter. It’s not great quality, but it will definitely work well enough for a few small jobs.

Pros

Inexpensive
Includes a glue gun
Generally easy to use

Cons

Some common tools are not included
Quality isn’t very high

9. Best Advanced Dent Removal Rod Kit: Mookis Rod Set

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Why we like it: Rod tools are indispensable tools for dent repair, and this set includes a ton of shapes and sizes for tackling all manner of dents.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
In a rolled-up travel bag, you’ll find ten differently shaped rods. You also get a hammer, some chain that you can use as a leverage device, and a small punch. That may not seem like a lot, but it really is a ton of versatility and use from a small kit. Dent rods allow you to reach into an area that you wouldn’t otherwise be able to access and pound out a dent from behind. It’s not just the best tool for the job; it’s pretty much the only tool for the job.
How Easy Is It to Use?
Dent rods are not easy to use. The price of failure is not as high as it is with bodywork hammers, but it still takes a lot of practice to make them work for you. The big distinction between a hammer kit like the Neiko and a set of rods like this one is the amount of metal you shape per tap. A hammer moves a lot of material; if you strike it wrong, you can add a huge dent. Tapping on a rod only moves a bit of metal. It takes a long time to get a dent out, but if you miss it’s not a big deal.
Our Thoughts
These are expensive and hard to use. They have a gigantic learning curve. They are intimidating, and it is amazingly frustrating to work with a tool like this for hours and hours and see no results. Rod tools take a lot of time, no matter how you slice it. At least this kit is really, really good quality.
They are absolutely indispensable if you plan on making your car look the best it can. Sorry everyone that wants everything to just be cheap and easy, but pulling tools have their limitations. Don’t get us wrong, if you have some small dents, a tool kit like the Gliston is absolutely perfect. It will pop the dent, and you’ll be happy. For the few of you restoring a 69 Camaro and need to pop a crease out of the roof, though, you should pick up a set like this one.

Pros

Amazing for detail work
The best tool for reaching hard to reach areas
Great quality

Cons

Expensive
Hard to use

10. Best Cheap Suction Cup: ABN Dent Puller

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Why we like it: It’s everything that it says on the package. A cheap rite of passage dent remover that can work on very small, uniform dents.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
A suction cup. That’s it. It’s just a suction cup in some clamshell packaging.
How Easy Is It to Use?
It’s really, really easy to use. You stick it to the dent and pull. That’s pretty much the end of it. The downside is that there are only a small range of dents that a suction cup puller works with. If you don’t have a dent that’s uniform, small, and in thin metal, then it doesn’t matter how easy it is to use in theory because it won’t work.
Our Thoughts
Here it is, the suction cup dent puller. It’s required to include one on any list discussing dent removal, and it’s the first thing that DIY car care people buy in hopes that it will work. We can’t stop you from getting one because it’s like a rite of passage. They are super cheap, and they all seem to have the same video of a really enthusiastic guy sporting a goatee happily pulling out a dent and showing the world how amazing and easy the suction cup puller is.
Then it arrives, you try it on your car, and 95% of you will come back and get the Gilston kit.
That’s because they just don’t work very well on most dents and dings. First, the dent has to be uniform so the suction cup can seal against it. Second, it has to be just a little bigger than the tool. Not too big or deep, you won’t have the strength to pull it out, and not too small, or you will pull on the metal around the dent instead of the dent.
This particular one from ABN is at least a good size. Most of the ones in discount stores are way too big to be useful for anything, but the ABN is only 2” in diameter. We know you’re curious about it and have the same morbid fascination with super cheap tools that we all do, so we won’t’ say anything when we see it sitting on your workbench collecting dust. Just maybe grab a bridge puller like this one too so that you don’t have to wait for it to ship.

Pros

Cheap
Good size
Owning one makes you part of a worldwide club of people who know better but do it anyway.

Cons

It only works in perfect conditions
Even when it works other solutions will look better

All About Paintless Dent Removal
Buying the dent removal tool is actually the easiest part of the process. Removing dents is fairly tricky no matter which tool you choose to use. That’s not awesome, we’ll admit, but don’t worry. Read through this and you’ll do great.
Types of Dents
The first thing you have to know is how your car is dented. It’s just like how a doctor has to know what kind of disease the snotty child next door had before knowing what medicine to give you.
Round Dents and Small Dings
Ever seen a car get hit by a golf ball? That causes a round dent. Round dents are easily removed by most pulling type dent removers, like the Manelord bridge tool above. Smaller round dents rarely take more than a couple of pulls and are the only time you’ll see a suction cup device like the ABN shine.
The good news is round dents are the most common dents. In fact, according to the internet, shopping carts are the single worst thing for cars ever. Round dents are also caused by hail, a light tap from a car backing into you, or your buddy headbutting your car after a long night at the bar. All those can be solved with most PDR tools.
Sharp Dents
As we move into sharper dings and dents, we start to move away from the world of pulling tools. They can do an ok job on smaller areas, but you’ll get better results by learning to use a set of rods like this kit we talked about. When metal takes a sharp object to the surface, it has a high chance of distorting. That means you stop being able to just pop the dent out and start entering the world of shaping metal.
Creases
Fixing a crease dent is about the extent of a DIY kit. Even with a combination of high strength PDR tools like the Anyyion and body rods like in the Mookis kit, you will have difficulty getting a creased panel to look like new. If you can remove the panels and pound on them, you can use hammers like these on our list to re-shape the metal. At that point, you are leaving the realm of paintless repair and entering the realm of having to repaint.
Serious Damage
Once you get into serious damage, you leave the world of dent repair kits behind. You have options still. Some are good options, like cutting out the damage and rebuilding it or using welded studs to do some serious shaping. Some are bad options, like using gallons of Bondo. Regardless, severe damage is usually best left to shops that specialize in repair.
Paintless Dent Repair Tips and Tricks
Once you know the symptom and have bought the medicine, here’s some info to get you started on the right foot.
Watch Some YouTube Videos
For some reason, car YouTubers love to show off dent repair. Take advantage of that and watch a few; it will really get you prepared to do it yourself. The guys in this Eastwood video do a great job working through the process, but if you search for the type of tool you want to use and decide that, there’ll be a video catering for you too.
Work in Small Increments
Most of dent repair is about sneaking up on the issue and fixing it in small increments. When you use a bridge tool or other puller, it’s best to use small movements and do less. Slowly add more pulling and larger areas as you go.
Practice on Soda Cans
The final exam in bodyshop class makes you use a TIG welder to weld a new shaped panel onto an aluminum can that you cut out of a different can. You don’t have to get that crazy, but it’s a good idea to spend some time working soft metal into different shapes. Then you know what the tools you bought will do to your car.
Mind the Heat
If your car gets hot, the glue won’t set. If the glue doesn’t set, you have a bad time. Usually, just keeping your car out of the sun is enough to keep it cool.
Mind the Cold Too
The cold makes paint brittle, glue brittle, and hands brittle. Those are all widely considered bad things. Brittle paint can crack or be pulled off by the glue, which elements the whole paintless part of paintless dent removal. Use some strong lights pointed at the dent if you are working in a cold shop, that’s sufficient.
Don’t Expect Perfect Results Your First Time
In fact, don’t expect perfect results even if it’s the fourth or fifth time you are doing it. It takes a ton of time and skill to get really good at dent repair. What you can do is get good results that take the edge away from an ugly dent.
Get Shaping
Hopefully, after reading this, you feel inspired. You can get rid of that dent that’s been on your Camry for the last 3 years. You can finally get around to working the rash out of your project drift missile. You can remove the dent you put into your sister’s car that one time you crashed your bike into her door while showing off to your friends. Grab a kit and start gluing. More

There is no worse feeling than hearing the ping of a stone or screech of a tree branch against the paintwork of your vehicle and feel that sinking feeling in your stomach, knowing that this scratch is going to be a bad one.
Luckily for us, car paint technology gets better every single year. There’s now very little difference between car paint repair kits available online to you and me, and the paint the professionals would use in a repair shop and gouge you several hundred dollars for. With a little time and effort, almost any damage can be repaired, and scratches that would have needed a complete panel respray even a few years ago can now be fixed by you at home in your garage or in your driveway.

The Types of Paint Chip Repair Kits
There are a few different ways to go about fixing a chip in your car’s paint. Here are the different methods employed by the products on our list. If you’re looking to paint more than just a small section of your car, make sure to check out our list of the best paint guns for painting your car.
Touch-Up Pens
One of the two most common types of applicators, touch-up pens are precise and simple to use. Touch-up pens look and feel like a thick marker pen and are used in almost the same way. You ‘paint’ the scratch or chip by drawing over it with the pen, and it leaves a layer of paint that is polished down into the rest of the paintwork.
Pens are better for small scratches or hard to see chips because they only lay down a thin layer of paint. So, unless you put down multiple layers over the course of hours, larger damage is likely to still be visible and if you’re investing that amount of time, a larger kit is a better choice.  Our favorite touch-up pen is the Turtle Wax Color Magic Pen.
Touch-Up Brushes
The other most common type of applicator. A touch-up brush is exactly what it sounds like it is. A small pot, generally less than 20ml, of paint with a thin brush attached. Brushes can be sponge-based or fiber-based, and cover much larger areas than touch-up pens, but tend to be less precise and leave streaks and other visible marks on smaller areas of damage unless heavily buffed out.
Because of these issues, most kits avoid brush applicators, or use them as a back-up option.
Full Kits
The most complete option available, kits like these come as a full set with everything you need inside. It’s common for these kits to come specifically based around an individual manufacturer, which ensures the closest possible match to the specific paints that each car maker uses. It’s also normally possible to get a specific kit matched to your exact paint job by using your vehicle’s OEM color code.
Inside, you tend to find sponges, cloths, and applicators, as well as cleaning solution, pre-paint treatment, the paint itself, excess paint remover, and sometimes a small amount of buffing wax.
Kits like these are often the most expensive but are by far the best products.
What to Look for When Buying Paint Chip Repair Kits
If you’ve already looked through our list of paint chip repair reviews, you’ll have noticed that there are some serious differences between individual kits. Here’s what you should be looking for when you’re making your choice.
Ease of Use
When you break down the process, filling in paint chips is surprisingly simple. It’s just about making sure the area is prepared correctly and putting on each layer evenly, then waiting for it to dry before moving on to the next stage.
A good paint chip repair kit will have everything you need inside, taking all the decision making out of the process, and letting you focus on the important task at hand.
Clear Instructions
Just as important as ease of use is how good the instructions are. Paints from specific manufacturers sometimes need specialist preparation, and a clear and easy to follow set of instructions makes the entire process much simpler.
Safety and Environmentally Friendliness
The days of harsh chemicals being used for car paints are long gone, but it’s still important to treat all the compounds involved with care.
When repairing damaged paintwork, do it in a well-ventilated area. A large garage is perfect. Smaller enclosed spaces can be used if you have adequate ventilation and face protection.
You can also do it outside, though make sure that the weather is clear, with no chance of rain, and low wind.
Size
The tools you need depend on what repairs are necessary. A single scratch can easily be fixed with a pen or brush kit, but a larger area might require multiple coats and extensive prep work.
The largest areas might not even be possible to fix with a paint chip repair kit and might require a complete respray or panel replacement.
Now that you know what to look for, here are our top picks for paint chip repair kits for your car in 2020.

Top 10 Best Car Paint Chip Repair Kits 2020

1. Best Overall Pick: Carfidant Scratch and Swirl Remover

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Why we like it: Most kits on this list have a focus on the scratches and chips and don’t pay as much attention to what comes after. Once you’ve repaired the damage, you need to even out and polish your paint job, and that’s what Carfidant Scratch and Swirl is for.
Editor’s Rating:

A dedicated paintwork restoration product, Carfidant Scratch and Swirl remover isn’t designed to fully remove deep scratches or other damage. Instead, it’s a finishing polish that removes light scratches, swirls, and other paint imperfections, whether they’re caused by repairs to deeper chips, car washes and branches, or even day to day wear.
The premium chemical mix is approved for all colors and manufacturers, and can safely be used on all clear coats, single-stage, and multi-stage paints, meaning that no matter what you’re driving, you can use this with confidence.
The kit includes a good quality buffing sponge and the scratch remover formula but can also be used with any other buffing tools, including power tools. Made in the USA, it’s the perfect accompaniment to any of our top repair kits.

Pros

Restores paintwork to a clean shine
One bottle will last for multiple applications
Satisfaction guarantee

Cons

Only a finishing polish, doesn’t fill chips or deeper scratches
Relatively expensive for what you get

2. Best Budget Pick: Turtle Wax T-234KT Premium Scratch Repair Kit

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Why we like it: The simple process and excellent finish, as well as the reasonable price, make this a good choice for scratched paint and shallow chips.
Editor’s Rating:

If you know anything about cars, you’ve heard the name Turtle Wax. Turtle Wax is recognized for their high-quality washing and detailing products.
This kit is advertised as a complete kit but compared to some of the others on this list, that’s a misnomer. Real ‘complete-kits’ come with a color matched paint, and this doesn’t. Instead, it comes with a clear coat pen and clarifying compound. Rather than infilling scratched paintwork, Turtle Wax’s scratch repair kit strips it down to the level of the scratch, then builds it back up again, good as new.
The kit comes with the repair pen, which is as easy to use as a regular pen, and three different grains of sandpaper, used in sequence to even out your scratches. You also get two spray bottles, one of clarifying compound, and one of lubricant, which is a nice touch. Spray bottles are easier to use than a tub or bottle, and it makes it much simpler to end up with even coverage.
One of the best things about the kit is the simplicity. The instructions are simple, and once the clear coat pen has been used, it takes a minute or two of rubbing down and a quick buff. Start to finish, it takes a handful of minutes.
There are a few negatives, though. One, you can’t use this kit on any scratch or chip that’s deep enough to have exposed bare metal. Two, it’s not recommended for use on metallic paints, as it tends to leave obvious marks. Three, if this is your first time using the kit, go very slow, and check every step as you go. The provided chemicals are powerful, and it’s very easy to over-polish.

Pros

Compound contains sealant
The finish is fantastic, as expected from Turtle Wax
The simple process is easy to follow

Cons

Can only be used on scratches and small chips
Be careful not to over-polish

3. Best Premium Pick: 3M Scratch Removal System

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Why we like it: A complete scratch buffing kit that takes all of the hard work out of the process, because it fits in all standard power drills. 3M’s scratch removal system is a great stand-alone product, and also works incredibly well alongside any of the other repair kits on this list to buff and polish.
Editor’s Rating:

Half of the hard work repairing scratches and chips in your car or truck’s paint comes from the time necessary to buff out the finish once the paint is applied. Most products want you to do this manually, but there’s no reason to. After all, professional car detailers and repair shops will use a buffing machine, so why can’t you?
This kit fits into any standard power drill that runs between 1200 and 1600RPM, slotting in like a drill bit. It’s a 3 step approach to repairs, starting with sanding, then compounding, and finally polishing everything to a mirror finish. It comes with everything you need to bring your paintwork back up to factory finish, including two pouches each of scratch remover and rubbing compound.
3M is known for their scientific approach, and it shows. The instructions are some of the clearest on the market, with defined and easy to follow steps that are almost impossible to get wrong.
This is still only a scratch removal kit, so it’s not suitable for deep chips or other significant damage. However, there’s nothing stopping someone from buying a chip repair kit and using it first, then using this kit to polish out the result for a significantly better finish.
It comes with the disc pad holder, a 3000 grit abrasive square, a purple compounding pad, a black polishing pad, and enough 3M rubbing compound and 3M scratch remover for a decently sized area.

Pros

Contains everything you need to remove even deep scratches from your paintwork
Fits into any standard power drill
Reusable, so it’s useful over and over again

Cons

Not suitable for chips, but could be used with another product
You have to be careful not to overdo an area and strip the finish

4. Best Color Match: Color N Drive Touch-Up Kit

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Why we like it: The most complete kit on our list, Color N Drive’s touch up kit contains literally everything you need to treat your car. It might require more work than some of the smaller kits, but the end result is worth it.
Editor’s Rating:

The best complete touch-up kit on our list, Color N Drive is color-matched to your car’s OEM paint code for the closest and most uniform paint job possible. The kit is absolutely comprehensive, containing everything you need to strip, treat, and seal chipped and scratched paintwork.
The box contains a huge amount, starting with the German-made and patented cleaning solution to prepare your working area. From there, you can apply the paint with any of the provided brushes. Once the paint is dry, any imperfections or extra globs of paint can be stripped with the included paste and tools, leaving you with a smooth finish. Finally, use the carnauba-based wax to polish your paint to a mirror shine.
That might sound like a lot of work, and we won’t lie, it is. The Color N Drive kit takes more intensive work to apply than almost every other kit on this list. Plus, once it’s applied, the manufacturers recommend keeping an eye on the area and applying regular touch up coats.
But there’s a reason. Results. Applied correctly, this kit will leave your vehicle’s paint smooth and perfectly even. Downsides are minor. Apart from the extra effort involved, the instructions can be a little hard to follow at time, so take it slow and have everything ready before you begin. There’s a reason Color N Drive is the preferred touch up paint of car enthusiasts across the USA. It works.

Pros

Good color matching
Complete kit with everything you need
Comprehensive and clear instructions

Cons

Takes more work than some kits
Follow up treatments are recommended

5. Best Professional Kit: Langka Complete Paint Repair Kit

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Why we like it: A full, professional quality kit that comes with almost everything you need to get a gleaming, smooth finish.
Editor’s Rating:

Langka specializes entirely in high-quality paint repair kits, so their inclusion in this list was a given, and this kit doesn’t disappoint. Everything comes packaged in an attractive clamshell case that makes storage and organization simple.
The kit is near-perfect. Inside is a 2oz bottle of pre-paint, which prepares the area before you apply the color. This is fantastic, drawing ingrained dirt and grime out of even hairline cracks that other cleaning products wouldn’t touch. There is also a bottle of paint sealant, and our favorite, a bottle of Langka Blob Eliminator. One of the most common problems when repairing scratches and chips is the paint blobbing, which if not treated is highly visible and looks awful against the finish.
Langka’s Blob Eliminator melts blobs down in minutes, letting you strip them from your vehicle without damaging the rest of the paintwork. Supposedly, with careful use, you could use the kit to treat around 50 individual stone chips or minor scratches.
Also included are 3 micro-brushes for applying paint, and a plastic squeegee card for smoothing out lumpy paintwork after it’s been applied.
The only thing stopping this from stealing our top spot is that it doesn’t come with any paint. This is a minor downside because you have to buy the paint separately. But it’s also a big upside because it means you can use this kit on any car, with paint from any manufacturer, including custom paint jobs. In most cases, it’s easy enough to get a touch-up pen or order a pre-mixed pot from your local car dealership.
It’s hard to find a major flaw in this kit. Like all of the products on this list that promise professional-level results, it takes a little work to apply, requires multiple coats, and takes a long time to dry. We also recommend you watch Langka’s instructional videos, which will run you through the application process from start to finish. So even absolute beginners can achieve a pro-finish from the comfort of their own home.

Pros

All three included products are high-quality
Professional level finish
Covers a large area

Cons

Paint not included
Plastic squeegee card is fragile, snaps easy

6. Best Universal Color Pick: Turtle Wax Color Magic Pen

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Why we like it: A safe choice if you can’t color match your paint or you only have smaller scratches and chips to fill, the Turtle Wax Color Magic Pen is also probably the tool that is easiest to use from this list.
Editor’s Rating:

Sometimes, simplicity is the best solution. Turtle Wax’s Color Magic Pen is simple, but not any less effective because of it. The design is basic, looking like a large Sharpie marker, and the felt tip is easy to get the hang of.
Like all pen designs, you don’t draw with it. Instead, you dab downwards, letting the pen deliver a spot of paint, then move along the scratch or divot. With a little practice, it’s possible to fill deep scratches and rock chips in minutes, and the pen contains enough paint to cover up to 144 inches of continuous scratches.
You have a choice of colors, each part of Turtle Wax’s Universal Color Match range, designed to match the most popular manufacturer’s colors on the market. Because of that, it might not be a precise match to your car’s existing paintwork, so always test it on an unobtrusive area first.
The results are solid and leave a durable bond despite being a one-step formula, but the quality of the finish is mostly dependent on the user. Make sure you follow the instructions and use it as directed. But with a little care, this pen can make smaller scratches and chips disappear like magic.

Pros

Simple to use
Excellent budget option for small imperfections

Cons

Universal Color Match isn’t exact
As a pen the finish isn’t always perfect

7. Best Touch-Up Paint: Paint2Fix Brand Matched Touch-Up Paint

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Why we like it: A massive range of near-perfect color matches across all major car manufacturers Paint2Fix should be the go-to choice if you want a simple and convenient kit that matches your existing paintwork.
Editor’s Rating:

Paint2Fix produces a huge range of products that are designed to match the color of your vehicle as closely as possible. Each kit is color-matched to the specific manufacturer’s paint, with a 100% match guarantee for every shade. Find your make, model, and paint code, and you should be able to find a kit that’s matched to it, straight out of the box.
Inside every box is a complete kit, with everything you need to repair chips and scratches, straight out of the box. Included is a paint formula and blending solution, letting you blend the perfect match to your vehicle’s paintwork, even if it’s dulled by age and sunlight. Multiple micro brushes are included, giving you the ability to cover multiple chips or store the remainder for later use. Finally, there’s a high-grade wax and microfiber cloth to polish everything in once it’s done.
One thing that isn’t provided is a high-grade sealant. While you don’t need to reseal your paintwork after treating it, it is highly recommended as it makes any repairs last much longer.
The instructions are clear and simple to follow, making this kit easy to apply. It can take a little time to get right, so clear a couple of hours, and it’s best to leave your car for a few hours afterward so that everything can set before you take it on the road again.
Paint2Fix kits come with the option for multiple pack sizes, letting you buy as much or as little as you need:
Bronze level comes with the least paint and solution and is suitable for small worn patches, single chips or several scratches.
Silver level comes with almost double the amount of paint and is suitable for larger scratches or dings.
Gold level comes with a large amount of paint that will cover a huge area, as well as almost twice as many applicator brushes and more blending solution.

Pros

Color match technology can be matched to almost any brand
Simple, easy to follow instructions
Buy as much as you need

Cons

Doesn’t come with sealant
Blending the color takes a little practice

8. Best for GM vehicles: ALDelco Four-In-One Touch-Up Pen

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Why we like it: Incredibly simple to use, matched to your car’s paint job and with a choice of applicators, for smaller chips and scratches, the ALDelco four-in-one is a simple but effective tool that a child could use.
Editor’s Rating:

For such a small thing, there’s a lot packed into each ALDelco pen. To start, each one is color-matched to your vehicle’s specific GM factory code, for the perfect match to your existing paintwork.
Each pen is a four-in-one applicator, with the choice of a piston style pen at the top which activates on pressure, or a thicker brush applicator on the opposite end, ideal for filling in larger chips and dents. Also included is a sanding stone, and a clear coat tip for the finishing coat.
Pens like these are incredibly easy to use. Shake it to get the paint flowing, push the pen down onto some scrap card to load the nib, then dab it into the area that needs filling. Make sure that you don’t try to paint it on, even with the brush, as this leads to a streaked and uneven finish. Also consider that a pen like this doesn’t self-level the paint, so the end product will have to be sanded down and polished.
There are a few small problems, including the fact that the pen can leak after use, but these are relatively minor, especially considering how cheap and simple this is. If it wasn’t a manufacturer-specific product, this would be a 5-star choice every time.

Pros

Incredibly simple to use
Color-matched to any GM vehicle
The choice of brush or pen

Cons

Should only be used on GM manufactured vehicles

9. Best Inexpensive Color Matching: MagicEzy Color Match Repair Kit

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Why we like it: If you have a color that’s hard to match to a manufacturer’s standard, or you’re struggling to find a suitable paint, the MagicEzy Color Match lets you mix your own paint there and then, letting you get the closest match possible.
Editor’s Rating:

The ability to mix paint to get the closest match possible makes a lot of sense, which is why it’s also used in one of our top choices, the Paint2Fix touch-up kits. But larger kits like that are expensive, especially if you’ve only got a small area to cover.
In situations like this, where you might only have one or two scratches or one big, noticeable chip, the MagicEzy is a solid option. Inside each kit is a pair of colors, designed around the most common paint colors on the market. They can be mixed or applied separately until you have your desired color.
Unlike a lot of the paints on this list, MagicEzy paint has a thick, almost gel-like consistency. This makes it much simpler to apply, as it’s less likely to drip or leave blobs. The kit is designed around a one-touch application method, where you clean the area, squirt the paint onto the damage, then wipe it flat in one sitting, and that’s the whole process.
Because the paint is so thick and not matched to any individual color, this kit can be used on more than just metal. It’s safe to use on bumpers, hoods, metal, fiberglass, and even PVC. The finished product is durable, lasting around 3 years on average, under normal circumstances, and the finish can even be changed from gloss to matte.
Unfortunately, the applicators aren’t the best, and the thicker consistency can be hard to work with. You’re likely to end up with a messier finish than on a lot of our more highly rated products, meaning that this is better suited for smaller areas, or rugged vehicles where a little bit of spatter is less likely to be noticed.

Pros

Lets you match the color of your vehicle as closely as possible
Tough, hard-wearing result should last a long time, and is resistant to damage
Budget option, good for smaller, less visible chips

Cons

Matching the color takes a little work
Can be hard to get a smooth finish

10. Best Brush Applicator: SongVen Car Scratch Removal Applicator

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Why we like it: Available in over a dozen colors, if you have several small scratches that need fixing and you’re on a budget, or you’ve used brush applicators before and you want to use one again, this is your best option.
Editor’s Rating:

Simple but effective is the best way to describe these brush-based applicators. Unlike some of the more complicated kits, that require preparation, several layers of solution, and sometimes complicated tools, all these need is a quick shake and you’re good to go.
Ideal for small scratches, and also for small but deep chips, a brush takes no explanation. Dab it into the damaged area, give it time to dry, then polish up and finish. Despite the cheap price, paint quality is good, with vibrant colors and a tough, waterproof finish without needing further coating. (But we still always recommend applying a good clear coat finish.)
The tube provided comes with enough paint to cover a huge area, potentially an entire panel. It also keeps for a long time, several years if looked after correctly, making this a nice tool that you can tuck away in the garage just in case the worst happens.
Most manufacturers are moving away from brush applicators for a reason. Pen applicators are better for smaller scratches, and for anything bigger, there are much better options. With that said, this does exactly what you need it to do, and it’s a fantastically cheap option with admirable quality.

Pros

There are a wide selection of available colors
Brush applicators are easy to use
Low price

Cons

Generic colors might not be an exact match
The finish from brush-type applicators tends to be worse than other options

The Paint Chip Repair Kit Buyer’s Guide
The paintwork on your car isn’t just there to look pretty. Modern paint acts as another layer of protection for the metalwork, and most modern cars also have a secondary layer of clear paint over the top of their colored layer called a clear coat.
Any flaw in the paintwork of your car exposes it to the elements. Metal can very quickly start to rust or corrode, and once it’s started, corrosion is almost impossible to get rid of, and can necessitate the replacement of an entire panel, or in the worst case, cause structural damage to the frame of the car itself.
It’s especially important to repair a paint chip if bare metal is exposed. If you can see bare metal, repair the damage as soon as you possible can, as it can start to rust within 4 to 5 days.
Cold and wet weather means that water can work under the edges of the exposed paint. As temperatures reach freezing, water expands, pushing the paint away from the metal and making the chip far worse over time. If the temperature repeatedly shifts above and below freezing, even a tiny chip can grow deceptively fast.
The Difference Between Chips and Scratches and What That Means to You
Not all damage to your paint should be treated the same, here are a few common blemishes you may see on your car’s paint job and an idea of what fixing them will entail.
Stone Chips
Stone chips are a common feature in the paintwork of most vehicles, especially after a couple of years on the road.
They tend to congregate on the bonnet, front bumper and side panels, leaving a small pattern of dents and chips commonly called ‘road rash.’
Single, individual chips tend to be caused by gravel and stones thrown upwards by other cars. These chips are normally larger, and they’re more common in winter, when roads are being gritted regularly, or on freeways and other high-speed roads, but can happen without warning at any time, so they are impossible to predict or protect yourself from.
Scratches
A scratch can be caused by almost anything, but the most common causes are car washes, both hand car washes and automatic machines, and by people or objects rubbing, scraping or knocking into your car.
Scratches tend to be less deep than chips because the force of impact is spread along the paintwork, rather than directly at it, which results in a longer, shallower damage pattern rather than a chunk of missing paint.
Because of this, and because the damage pattern is a long, thin line, scratches can be much easier to repair than chips, normally needing just a simple coat of paint and a polish.
Paint Chip Repair Kit Frequently Asked Questions
Are Paint Chip Repair Kits Worth Using?
Absolutely. Often, people who are biased against kits like these have an outdated view of what they are. Most people who think of touch-up kits think of cheap, shoddy pens that leave visible discolored streaks, but those days are long gone.
Now, most paint touch-up kits contain color-matched, manufacturer-approved paint that’s going to be the same shade and brand as any paint used by a repair shop, meaning that with a little work and care, the results should be near-indistinguishable from the surrounding paintwork.
Is There Ever a Reason to Avoid Using a Home Paint Repair Kit?
There’s a simple rule of thumb for when to try and repair at home, and when to take the car to the shop.
Car paint repair kits are designed to repair the paint and primer of your vehicle. If the impact was bad enough that it damaged the bodywork of your car, take it to the shop.
At best, you’ll paint over bodywork damage that will be permanently visible until you replace the panel. At worst you’ve just compromised the structure of your car, or it has underlying damage which is only going to get worse.
In What Order Do I Apply Each Layer of Paint?
Start by cleaning and drying the damaged area, and removing all rust and corrosion
If there is bare metal, apply a layer of primer
Once the primer is dry, apply a layer of paint
When the paint has dried, apply a layer of clear coat.
Wet sand the area with fine grain sandpaper to smooth out any imperfections
If necessary, apply further layers of paint once the initial layer has completely dried
Where Can I Find My Car’s Paint Code?
There are multiple places this might be found on your car, and it varies between manufacturers. You’re looking for the car’s identification plate, which contains information like make and model, engine size, serial number, and color code. Places to look include:
The glove box
Under the hood
In the boot
Inside the door frame on the driver’s side
If you still can’t find your car’s paint code, you can check this list, or search online for your car’s model and the year in which it left the factory.
I’ve Applied Too Much Paint. How Do I Remove It?
After repairing your car using a chip repair kit, it’s common for small paint blobs to be left on the surface of your vehicle.
They’re relatively simple to get off with a little paint thinner and a q-tip, but make sure you wait until the paint has dried.
Don’t try to wipe away wet paint, because it will streak and ruin your paintwork.
My Car’s Paintwork Has Aged. What Can I Do?
This is a difficult situation. The first option is to buy color matched paint that’s adjusted based on the age and weathering of your car, but this is an involved process, expensive and normally requires taking your car to the shop to get it resprayed.
The second, better option is to buy a color-matched repair kit. These come with paint that is matched to your vehicle’s make and model, as well as a second pot of mixer, which you slowly add to the main paint to fade and dull it down until it matches the color of your existing paintwork.
Unfortunately, neither of these options will ever be perfect, as no new coat of paint is going to have experienced the events that changed the color of your vehicle’s paintwork.
But in general, smaller chips and scratches won’t show, even if your paint has faded slightly from UV damage or other environmental factors. Larger chips might show, especially in direct sunlight, but using a smaller kit like this makes matching that difficult.
How Long Does It Take to Repair a Paint Chip?
Much less time than you might think. Like most things when it comes to car care, more than half of your time is spent in preparation and aftercare.
For chip and scratch repairs, that means sanding down and cleaning the damaged area, making sure it’s free from corrosion, wax, grease or anything else that might prevent the paint from cleanly adhering.
Once the vehicle is prepared, actually applying the primer, paint and clear coat can only take a few minutes, with a short break in between to wait for coats to dry.
Once the paint is applied, the surface has to be sanded and rubbed down, until the repair is flush and clean with existing paintwork. It can take multiple layers of paint and clear coat, with even more sanding, to achieve the perfect finish, which can be a slow and tedious process, depending on the depth of the chip and extent of the damage.
Final Thoughts
Our top picks are all complete kits for a reason. Getting everything you need in a single box ensures that you’re not going to get halfway through the process and have to make an emergency run to the hardware store. Plus, every kit reviewed had consistently excellent performance across the board.
If in doubt, find a complete repair kit that’s matched to your car’s make and model, and you’ll be in good hands. More

Picture this: you’ve bought yourself a beautiful old sports car and, like any good owner, have stored it out of the elements for the winter. You’ve also been careful to top-up all the fluids, remove the battery, and keep your vehicle in a moisture-free environment, so it’s in perfect condition for the spring.
When the first warm day of spring arrives, you couldn’t be more excited to take your pride and joy for a spin, so you spend the morning getting it all ready and attempt to fire up the engine.
But it won’t start.
You try again and again, but the car won’t turn over, and you’re left wondering what possibly could have gone wrong.
The answer is likely in the fuel.
Whenever your sports car, or any other vehicle, sits without running for more than a month, it’s essential to use a fuel stabilizer to prevent the gasoline from going bad and clogging the fuel system. In this guide, we’ll look at the top fuel stabilizers on the market.

Factors to Consider When Buying Fuel Stabilizers
From the second you put fuel in your gas tank, it starts to degrade. Over a few months, the fuel can oxidize, forming gummy deposits that can clog up your fuel system and hinder your vehicle’s performance. It also makes the fuel less potent.
Additionally, most modern gas contains ethanol, a corrosive material that can damage fuel lines, gas tanks, and carburetors. Ethanol also attracts water, another corrosive substance, from the atmosphere, doing further damage to your fuel system.
Before looking at the best fuel stabilizers available today, you must know what to look for in a high-end product. After all, if the fuel stabilizer that you go with doesn’t last long enough or is too difficult to use, you won’t be happy with the result.
Longevity
Different fuel stabilizers last for different amounts of time, and the option you choose should generally depend on how long you wish to store your vehicle. As a rule, however, most reputable fuel stabilizers will keep your fuel in good shape for a year or two.
As a result, you can store your car or other motorized equipment for up to 24 months without worrying about the fuel oxidizing or any ethanol present damaging the fuel system.
Of course, you don’t necessarily need to choose an option that lasts for two years if you’re only storing your vehicle for a month or two at a time; the choice is up to you.
How Much To Use
The various fuel stabilizers on the market have different concentrations, affecting how much you’ll need to use in your car. The packaging instructions will let you know the approximate amount to allocate per gallon of fuel in your tank.
Some brands have a chart on the bottle’s side, so very little math is required, while others tell you to use the entire bottle. It’s OK to go over this approximate amount by a bit, but not putting enough fuel stabilizer into your tank could make it less effective.
Keep in mind that stabilizers with a lower concentration could end up costing you more, despite their lower sticker price, because you’ll have to put more in your tank than you would of a highly concentrated product.
Size
Hand in hand with the product’s concentration is the size of its bottle. Many top fuel stabilizers come in multiple sizes, allowing you to decide based on how much you need.
For example, if you’ll be storing multiple vehicles, or wish to use the product in your lawnmower, string trimmer, motorhome, and car, you’ll want a larger bottle. Likewise, if you’re only applying the stabilizer to your motorcycle, a smaller bottle will suffice.
Products with multiple size options make it easier to select a bottle that is right for you, especially since most fuel stabilizers have a shelf life of about two years after opening.
Ease of Use
If you’ve ever struggled to put oil in your car without spilling, you know how challenging it can be to pour things into your vehicle. The same can be said for fuel stabilizers, as you’ll have to get this liquid into your gas tank without making a huge mess.
Some products have spouts that you can insert into the tank, and even have a measuring mechanism built into the bottle. If you aren’t a mechanic, selecting an easy-to-use fuel stabilizer should be a priority because it lessens the potential problems you could encounter.
Other Considerations
Many well-known brands have fuel stabilizers on the market, and, despite some of these products also cleaning your fuel system and engine, the end goal is always the same: to prevent your gas from going bad and clogging your fuel system.
Generally, bad gas will prevent your engine from firing up, and in the worst-case scenario, could obstruct or damage your carburetor and fuel lines, forcing you to visit a mechanic. By putting a fuel stabilizer into your gas tank before storing your vehicle away, if even for a month, you can stop the gas from going bad.
Here’s a look at the top fuel stabilizers available in 2020.

Top 10 Best Fuel Stabilizers 2020

1. Best Overall Fuel Stabilizer: Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment

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Why we like it: Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment helps vehicles fire up for the first time after lengthy storage by preventing a build-up in their engines.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Size of bottle: Eight ounces
Easy to pour: Yes
Longevity: Two years
How much to use: One ounce per six gallons of gas
Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment is a top fuel stabilizer option because not only does it keep the gas in your tank fresh, but it can make old gas usable again. Yes, if you have old gas in a fuel tank or gas can, this treatment can bring it back.
This product ensures that your vehicle will start up and run smoothly after lengthy storage and eliminates the need to drain your tank before storing your car for the season. The product is expensive when used as a fuel treatment because you’ll have to put some in every time you fill up, but an excellent option as a fuel stabilizer for the occasional user.
Using the Product
Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment has a long spout, making it easy to pour into the gas tank without spilling. You’ll want to use one ounce of stabilizer for every six gallons of gasoline, and there’s a measurement guide on the side of the bottle showing you how much you’re putting into the tank.
Remember, the frequency with which you use the product depends on your preferences. If you’re only using it for storage, you’ll measure the necessary amount and put it in your tank before storing the vehicle. Since the product also acts as a fuel treatment, you might re-administer it every time you fill your tank, as well.
Verdict
Overall, Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment does an outstanding job of not only keeping fuel fresh but protecting the entire fuel system from damage. The main drawback is its price, as having to administer one ounce for every six gallons of gas adds up if you’re using it to treat your car after every fill. At the same time, its eight-ounce bottle is under $10 and can treat 48 gallons of fuel, making it a solid option for the annual user.

Pros

Keeps gas fresh
Easy to pour
Good for long-term storage
Prevents fuel system problems

Cons

Small bottles
Can get expensive

2. Best Budget Fuel Stabilizer: STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer

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Why we like it: STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer comes in multiple sizes and does an excellent job of protecting your engine for up to 24 months.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Size of bottle: Multiple sizes between eight ounces and one gallon
Easy to pour: Yes, except for the one-gallon jug
Longevity: Two years
How much to use: One ounce per 2.5 gallons of fuel
Unlike other fuel stabilizers that also clean the fuel system, freshen up old gas, and improve your gas mileage, STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer has one job: to keep your gasoline stable. The good news is that this product is excellent at preventing your fuel from oxidizing and damaging your fuel system because it does this one job extraordinarily well.
If you’ll be removing your car from storage to occasionally drive it or want something that’ll clean your fuel system while you go, you might look to another product like Royal Purple Max-Clean Fuel System Cleaner and Stabilizer. If you’ll be storing your vehicle for months at a time, or even up to two years, however, STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer is a great product.
Using the Product
STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer is incredibly easy to use because of its long spout. Keep in mind that the one-gallon jug doesn’t have this spout, making it more challenging to pour into your gas tank. The product also has measurement units built onto the side of the bottle, giving you a rough idea of how much you’re putting into the tank. To use the product, you’ll want to fill your tank at least 95% full before topping it up with fuel stabilizer and letting the engine run for five minutes.
Verdict
If you plan to let your vehicle sit for more than 30 days, STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer will ensure that your fuel stays fresh and doesn’t rust your carburetor. It’ll also protect your engine from gumming up and remove moisture from your gasoline, preventing corrosion. The main problem is that it takes one ounce of product to treat 2.5 gallons of fuel, so you’ll need a lot of it to protect an entire tank of gas.

Pros

Multiple sizes
Excellent fuel system protection
Keeps gas fresh for two years
Easy to use

Cons

Need a lot of it
Doesn’t clean the fuel system
Only for fresh gas

3. Best Premium Fuel Stabilizer: Lucas Oil Fuel Stabilizer

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Why we like it: Lucas Oil Fuel Stabilizer is a premium product that provides outstanding protection and will also clean your fuel system.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Size of bottle: Multiple sizes between eight ounces and one quart
Easy to pour: Yes
Longevity: 12 months
How much to use: One ounce per one gallon of gasoline
Lucas Oil is a big name in the car care industry, so it should come as no surprise that their fuel stabilizer is one of the best options on the market. This product does an outstanding job of preventing fuel from breaking down during storage and also cleans your fuel pump, compression rings, carburetor, and fuel injectors.
Lucas Oil Fuel Stabilizer is a top product in this industry, with the one issue being the cost because, unlike long-term brands like B3C Fuel Solutions Ethanol Shield Stabilizer, it only lasts for 12 months, and you’ll have to use one ounce per every gallon of fuel.
Using the Product
One of the best aspects of Lucas Oil Fuel Stabilizer is its ease of use, as all bottles, even the one quart, come with an easy-pour spout. All you’ll do to use this product is pour it into a gas tank full of fuel and let the engine run for a few minutes before storing your car for the winter. You’ll likely need close to a full quart of stabilizer to treat a tank of gas, which might exclude you from using Lucas Oil Fuel Stabilizer on a large scale.
Verdict
Overall, Lucas Oil Fuel Stabilizer does its job exceptionally well and provides maximum protection for your engine and fuel system for about 12 months. While a year seems like a long time, this product doesn’t come close to the two-year or three-year storage capabilities of other brands. However, for short-term storage of a single vehicle, Lucas Oil Fuel Stabilizer is a premium option that’s worth considering.

Pros

Top-quality brand
Makes old gas usable
Cleans your fuel system

Cons

Only keep fuel stable for one year
Uses one ounce per gallon

4. Best Full Fuel System and Engine Protection: Sea Foam Motor Treatment

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Why we like it: Sea Foam Motor Treatment is more than just a fuel stabilizer, as it cleans and maintains your car’s engine.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Size of bottle: 16 to 20 ounces
Easy to pour: No
Longevity: Two years
How much to use: One ounce per gallon of fuel
First and foremost, Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a product that cleans and lubricates various engine components like your injectors, carburetor, intake valves, and pistons. At the same time, you can use the product as a fuel stabilizer, as it prevents both gasoline and diesel from oxidizing and forming gummy deposits for up to two years.
Keep in mind that when using this product as a stabilizer, its one ounce per one gallon of fuel ratio means you’ll need roughly two full bottles per tank of gas.
Using the Product
Unlike products with a long spout, Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a little more difficult to use because of its short neck. It comes in a shorter bottle because you’ll often use the product as an engine treatment and pour it directly into the crankcase. As a result, you’ll have to be careful when emptying it into your gas tank.
You should also know that Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a liquid, despite its name, and will spill if you don’t take the proper care.
Verdict
Sea Foam Motor Treatment is an excellent choice for treating your entire fuel system as you drive or when seeking a product to use in both diesel and gasoline engines. The product works well as a fuel stabilizer, although it doesn’t live up to its full potential when you have the car in storage. To get the most of Sea Foam Motor Treatment, you’ll want to run your vehicle occasionally to let it do its thing. If your car will be sitting for weeks at a time between use, Sea Foam is worth picking up. If it spends months in storage, you might want to keep looking.

Pros

Cleans your engine
Works in gasoline and diesel engines
Has multiple formulations

Cons

Difficult to pour
Not for car storage

5. Best Multi-Purpose Fuel Stabilizer: Royal Purple Max-Clean Fuel System Cleaner and Stabilizer

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Why we like it: In addition to stabilizing fuel, Royal Purple Max-Clean Fuel System Cleaner and Stabilizer cleans the fuel system and can improve fuel economy and other engine problems.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Size of bottle: 20 ounces
Easy to pour: No
Longevity: Seasonal storage
How much to use: One ounce per gallon of fuel
Much like Sea Foam Motor Treatment, Royal Purple Max-Clean Fuel System Cleaner and Stabilizer is a product that does some good for the entire fuel system. Royal Purple works on both diesel and gasoline engines and can improve your fuel economy, reduce your emissions, and restore your vehicle’s horsepower.
As a fuel stabilizer, Royal Purple Max-Clean Fuel System Cleaner and Stabilizer can prevent the gas in your tank from going bad over the winter, so you won’t have to drain your tank before storing your vehicle. The issue with this product is that it’s best used as a fuel system cleaner, so you probably aren’t getting the most from it when using it as a stabilizer.
Using the Product
Royal Purple Max-Clean Fuel System Cleaner and Stabilizer comes in a 20-ounce bottle that doesn’t have an easy-to-pour spout. As a result, you’ll have to take some care to avoid spilling. The fact that the product only comes in a single size capable of treating 20 gallons of fuel means you might need multiple bottles if you wish to stabilize a full tank of gas.
Verdict
Royal Purple Max-Clean Fuel System Cleaner and Stabilizer is a great product that does everything that it’s supposed to do. If you’re just looking for a fuel stabilizer as someone who occasionally uses their car, this is one of the best options on the market. If your car goes into storage for months at a time without being used, a more specialized product like PRI Fuel Stabilizer might be your best bet.

Pros

Cleans your fuel system
Great for occasionally-used vehicles
Reduces emissions

Cons

Requires one ounce per gallon
No easy-pour system
Not for long-term storage

6. Best Fuel Stabilizer For Diesel Engines: STA-BIL Diesel Fuel Stabilizer

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Why we like it: STA-BIL Diesel Fuel Stabilizer is a high-end product that’s made specifically for diesel engines.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Size of bottle: 32 ounces or one gallon
Easy to pour: Yes, in the 32-ounce option
Longevity: One year
How much to use: One ounce per five gallons when storing or ten gallons when operating the vehicle
Although other products like Royal Purple Max-Clean work on diesel engines, STA-BIL Diesel Fuel Stabilizer is formulated for vehicles that run on diesel and one of the best in that role. This product prevents sediment and sludge from forming inside your engine, and also reduces oxidation and removes water from your diesel fuel.
The key is that this product addresses problems related to ultra-low-sulfur diesel fuel (ULSD), the standard in North America, which can promote thermal fuel oxidation, corrosion, sediment formation, and lubrication issues.
The drawbacks are that the product only protects the fuel for about 12 months, and you’ll have to reapply it every time you fill the tank when not using it for storage purposes.
Using the Product
The 32-ounce bottle of STA-BIL Diesel Fuel Stabilizer comes with an easy-pour spout that includes a measurement guide to ensure you’re using the right amount. This stabilizer size will treat 320 gallons of fuel when you’re occasionally running the vehicle or 160 gallons for storage. This 32-ounce bottle will cost you over $20, but it’s highly-concentrated, so you’ll get good bang for your buck.
The one-gallon jug of STA-BIL Diesel Fuel Stabilizer isn’t as easy to pour into your tank because it doesn’t have the spout. The larger bottle also lacks the measurement units on the jug’s side, so you’ll have to ballpark or measure it when adding the product to your fuel tank.
Verdict
If you have a vehicle with a diesel engine, STA-BIL Diesel Fuel Stabilizer is a top choice because it is specially formulated to reduce the problems associated with ultra-low-sulfur diesel fuel. You don’t want to leave this fuel in your tank for months at a time without a fuel stabilizer that prevents it from taking on moisture, and this product is one of the best at this job. One bottle also treats a ton of fuel, but be aware that it only keeps diesel fresh for 12 months.

Pros

Reduces ULSD problems
Treats a lot of fuel
Simple to use
Formulated for diesel

Cons

Only lasts for 12 months
Have to use more of it when storing the vehicle

7. Best Highly-Concentrated Fuel Stabilizer: PRI Fuel Stabilizer

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Why we like it: A little bit goes a long way with the highly-concentrated PRI Fuel Stabilizer.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Size of bottle: 16 ounces
Easy to pour: Yes
Longevity: One year
How much to use: One ounce per 16 gallons
There’s a lot to like about PRI Fuel Stabilizer, as this product is industrial-grade, and you’ll only need to use one ounce of it for every 16 gallons of fuel, compared to one ounce per 2.5 gallons of fuel when using STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer. The result is that a 16-ounce bottle will last for years, although you should be aware that its shelf life is only three years from the time of opening and a bottle of it will run you somewhere in the $30 range.
As far a performance goes, PRI Fuel Stabilizer is one of the best at restoring old fuel to usable condition, which could save you from having to empty a tank containing stale gas. You’ll also notice that this product prevents deposits from forming in your fuel system and can improve your fuel economy.
Unfortunately, each treatment of the fuel only lasts for about a year. However, you can add another ounce or so of PRI Fuel Stabilizer to your gas tank annually to keep its contents fresh and prevent oxidation.
Using the Product
You shouldn’t have any trouble using PRI Fuel Stabilizer because its bottle comes with an easy-to-use spout that will measure the right amount for you. This spout works in half-ounce and one-ounce increments, allowing you to get as close as possible to the ideal amount of fuel stabilizer. It doesn’t take much to stabilize an entire tank of fuel, making this an excellent option for fleet owners or those with multiple vehicles they’ll be storing for the winter.
Verdict
As far as quality and ease of use go, PRI Fuel Stabilizer is a great option. Once you buy a bottle of this product, you won’t have to worry about re-purchasing for at least a few years, which should help you come to terms with the high upfront cost. You’ll also have to remember to add more stabilizer every year if you plan to store your car for a long time, but that’s a relatively rare issue.

Pros

Highly-concentrated
Restores old fuel
Protects your fuel system

Cons

Only lasts one year
High cost

8. Best Fuel Stabilizer For E10 Gasoline: Yamaha Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner

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Why we like it: Yamaha Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner is specially formulated for use with E10 gasoline, the most commonly used type in the United States.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Size of bottle: 32 ounces
Easy to pour: Yes
Longevity: One year
How much to use: One ounce per one gallon when storing; one ounce per three gallons when occasionally running
Yamaha Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner is formulated for E10 gasoline. What’s E10 gasoline, you ask? Well, it’s the type of gas you’ll find at most pumps in the United States and contains up to 10% ethanol. This information is vital because ethanol retains water, which can corrode elements in your fuel system.
All of this is a fancy way of saying that this product will prevent ethanol-related problems when leaving gas in your tank, but it’s nice to know that it’s formulated for the exact gasoline that you’re probably putting in your car. You’ll likely have to use an entire bottle of this product to store a vehicle, making it an expensive choice.
Using the Product
A bottle of Yamaha Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner comes with a long spout, making it an easy product to get into your gas tank. From there, it’ll keep your fuel stable for about a year, so your engine should start right up after being in storage for a season or two.
Verdict
You could say that there isn’t anything special about Yamaha Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner, as it does the bare minimum that you’d expect from a fuel stabilizer. At the same time, it does this job relatively well, albeit at an inflated price compared to other options on the market.

Pros

Formulated for E10 gasoline
Comes in a large bottle
Reduces moisture-related problems

Cons

Lots needed for storage
Only protects for one year

9. Best Long-Term Fuel Stabilizer: B3C Fuel Solutions Ethanol Shield Stabilizer

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Why we like it: B3C Fuel Solutions Ethanol Shield Stabilizer can keep fuel fresh and usable for up to three years.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Size of bottle: 24 ounces
Easy to pour: Yes
Longevity: Three years
How much to use: One ounce per ten gallons of fuel
B3C Fuel Solutions Ethanol Shield Stabilizer works by eliminating problems associated with ethanol fuels, such as moisture getting into the fuel system and causing corrosion. The product also lubricates and protects the top end of the engine and keeps gas usable for up to three years.
You’ll be happy to learn that Ethanol Shield Stabilizer is highly-concentrated. Although it’s not concentrated to the level of PRI Fuel Stabilizer, you’ll only have to use one ounce for every ten gallons of fuel. Your 24-ounce bottle will last for years, making this a rare purchase for your household. There aren’t any extra here, as the product doesn’t clean your engine, and it’s pricier than other options, like STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer, but it’ll keep your fuel stable long-term.
Using the Product
The long neck on the bottle of B3C Fuel Solutions Ethanol Shield Stabilizer makes it simple to get into your tank without spilling. From there, you’ll want to run your engine for a short time to ensure that the product reaches all parts of your fuel system, especially your carburetor. Ethanol can attract water and clog up your fuel system, but this product prevents gummy fuel from becoming an issue by stopping the gas in your tank from breaking down.
Verdict
B3C Fuel Solutions Ethanol Shield Stabilizer is a product that has one job and does it well. If you’ll be storing your vehicle for more than a few weeks, and up to three years, this stabilizer will do what it’s supposed to without worry.
You’ll want to look elsewhere if your fuel system is overdue for a cleaning, and you want an easy solution. However, if your fuel system is in good shape and you want to keep it that way without emptying your tank, Ethanol Shield Stabilizer can work for you.

Pros

Removes moisture from ethanol fuels
Highly-concentrated
Lasts for three years

Cons

Doesn’t clean the fuel system
High upfront cost

10. Best Fuel Stabilizer With Octane Boost: K100 MG All-In-One Gasoline Fuel Treatment & Additive

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Why we like it: K100 MG All-In-One does more than stabilize fuel, as it treats the entire fuel system and can provide an octane boost.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Size of bottle: 32 ounces
Easy to pour: Yes
Longevity: Two years
How much to use: One ounce per gallon
K100 MG All-In-One Gasoline Fuel Treatment & Additive treats the entire fuel system, preventing phase separation and improving fuel performance. The end result is a better performing car with reduced emissions and a cleaner-running fuel system.
There’s also the product’s octane boost capability, which can increase a fuel’s octane rating by as much as two points. While this doesn’t impact performance, it can prevent engine knocks caused by premature ignition in your car’s cylinders.
As a fuel stabilizer, K100 MG All-In-One Gasoline Fuel Treatment & Additive can stop fuel from going bad for up to two years and bring back old gas to a usable state. You’ll have to use the entire bottle on a full tank of gas, making this an expensive option.
Also, the product isn’t specialized for fuel stabilization, so it could be harder to get your engine started after lengthy storage than with a premium fuel stabilizer.
Using the Product
Like a lot of other products on this list, K100 MG All-In-One has a long neck that makes it easy to get into your gas tank. You’ll want to add it to your tank either before or after filling it with fuel. From there, the product’s composition allows it to easily mix with the fuel, moving it throughout the fuel system as the engine runs.
An entire bottle is often required to treat a tank of gas. If you’re stabilizing a smaller amount of fuel, you can use its cap to measure, with eight caps equaling one ounce of fuel stabilizer.
Verdict
K100 MG All-In-One Gasoline Fuel Treatment & Additive is an excellent product that can do a lot of good for your vehicle’s fuel system. It can also stabilize stored fuel for up to two years, but other products on the market are more effective and economical when used solely as a fuel stabilizer.

Pros

Provides an octane boost
Cleans your fuel system
Brings back old fuel

Cons

Need to use lots of it
Better as a fuel system treatment than a stabilizer

Guide to Buying the Best Fuel Stabilizers
With so many fuel stabilizers on the market, selecting the best one to meet your needs is a challenge. Here’s some additional information to help you make your decision.
How Fuel Stabilizer Works
A fuel stabilizer is a protective, petroleum-based substance that bonds to gasoline or diesel, preventing evaporation, oxidation, and chemical breakdown from occurring. The product also repels moisture that ethanol-based fuels can often absorb.
Fuels with ethanol are widespread today and bond efficiently to water. As this reaction occurs, the gasoline turns into a gummy blob that sits on the floor of your fuel tank or, worse, moves throughout your fuel system, clogging its components. This process is called phase separation, and it ruins your gas, reduces its octane levels, and damages your engine.
The chemicals in your fuel stabilizer work to prevent all of the negative aspects of fuel oxidation and water absorption, keeping your gas fresh and your engine free from the gummy deposits that this reaction creates.
Why You Need a Fuel Stabilizer
We know that, on the surface, you need a fuel stabilizer to protect your car’s fuel system, but why does the very thing your vehicle needs to operate damage its internal components?
The answer is in the type of fuel we use today.
About 98% of fuel sold in the United States contains ethanol, a renewable source that comes from plant-based materials called biomass. The vast majority of this fuel is called E10, which contains 90% gasoline and 10% ethanol. The idea is that ethanol causes less air pollution when burned. It also has a positive energy balance because its energy output is greater than the amount of energy it takes to create.
Laws, including the 1990 Clean Air Act and the Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007, have provisions outlining and governing ethanol’s use in today’s gasoline.
The problem is that cars aren’t designed to burn ethanol, and, as we’ve mentioned, this fuel causes all kinds of problems for engines and fuel systems. It also causes gasoline to break down faster, leading to the need for fuel stabilizers.
Fuel Stabilizers in Diesel Engines
For diesel engines, the need for a fuel stabilizer comes from the mandate for drivers to use ultra-low-sulfur diesel in their vehicles. The gist is the EPA has numerous laws in place that limit the amount of sulfur in the fuel you can buy.
These laws have done an excellent job of reducing emissions, which is good because sulfur oxides are dangerous to the environment and a human health concern, but they’ve also changed the chemistry of diesel fuel.
Hydrotreating, the process that removes sulfur from diesel, also eliminates the fuel’s natural lubricity compounds and makes it easier for it to absorb water. We’ve learned how dangerous water can be to fuel systems and engines, so using a stabilizer to bond to and remove this moisture is a good idea.
Types of Fuel Stabilizers
As you might have noticed, some products on this list will only stabilize your fuel and little else, while others will clean your fuel system or treat your engine, as well.
So, which one is best for you?
It all comes down to your reason for purchasing the product.
Generally, standalone fuel stabilizers are the best for long-term storage because you won’t be driving the vehicle to capitalize on the benefits of the fuel system treatment. Since the products that include engine treatment are often more expensive, it makes sense to stick with the economical option that performs the exact job you’re seeking.
At the same time, if you’ll continue to drive your car after using the fuel stabilizer, you might choose one that has these additional features because they’ll do your car’s engine components some good.
The Lifespan of Gasoline and Diesel
If you still aren’t sure if you need a fuel stabilizer for your vehicle, you should know how quickly gasoline breaks down. While there isn’t a definite amount of time that this process takes, gasoline containing ethanol can start to degrade within 30 days. After you’ve had gasoline sitting in your tank for over 30 days, the ethanol can start damaging your fuel system.
Ethanol also loses its combustibility in less than three months, making it far more challenging to get your engine started. If you’re refilling your car less than once a month, a good fuel stabilizer is a necessity to prevent fuel system damage.
Diesel, even today’s low-sulfur product, lasts a bit longer than gasoline, as you can keep it in your tank for about six months before it goes bad. At the same time, diesel can begin gumming up your fuel system in as little as 30 days, making a diesel fuel stabilizer a good idea.
What Happens When Gas Loses Potency
One of the symptoms of old gas is that it doesn’t burn as effectively, causing problems when trying to start your engine.
Gas is a volatile product that goes through a refining process to give it the exact chemical composition it requires to work in your vehicle. The gas vaporizes in your fuel system, so your internal combustion engine can use it to power the car.
The most volatile components in the gasoline, or the attributes that allow it to create the energy your vehicle needs, tend to evaporate over time. As these components evaporate, the gas burns less efficiently, making it difficult to start your engine.
Fuel stabilizers can slow down this evaporation, so your gas doesn’t lose its potency as rapidly.
Using Fuel Stabilizers on 2-Stroke Engines
We’ve spent a lot of time going over how to use fuel stabilizers in your car, but what about other engines? Well, all of these products, except for STA-BIL Diesel Fuel Stabilizer, work in all two-stroke and four-stroke gasoline engines.
As a result, you can use a fuel stabilizer in your lawnmower, string trimmer, motorcycle, dirtbike, or any other machinery that will have gasoline sitting in its fuel tank for more than a few weeks.
STA-BIL Diesel Fuel Stabilizer is also for use in diesel generators if you have one that you occasionally use and are worried about the fuel quality.
Can You Use Too Much Fuel Stabilizer?
Since you’ll have to measure how much fuel stabilizer you’re putting into your tank, you might be worried about putting too much in and damaging your car.
Using too much of these products isn’t usually a concern, however, as it’s close to impossible to “overdose” on fuel stabilizer, at least within reason. In fact, if you’re unsure about your measurements, you’re better off putting too much product into your gas tank than too little.
Basically, too little fuel stabilizer could cause the product to fail, while too much won’t affect it whatsoever. You don’t want to fill your entire tank with the stuff, but it’s no big deal if you’re a little over the prescribed amount.
Fuel Stabilizers in Stored Gas
Much of this topic has focused on fuel left in your gas tank, and that’s because this fuel can actively damage your car. Fuel stabilizers are also useful if you’re storing some emergency fuel in a gas can or keeping some gas around to refuel your lawnmower in the summer.
In this case, you’ll likely want a storage fuel stabilizer with the most extended shelf life because there’s no telling when you’ll actually use the gas. Of course, if you’ve bought a fuel stabilizer with fuel treatment capabilities for your car and have some leftover, it won’t hurt anything to use it in your stored gas can.
Wrapping Up
Your vehicles and other gas-powered equipment are valuable, and you want to do everything in your power to protect them from damage. Putting a little bit of fuel stabilizer into your tanks when your cars or tools will sit without being used can save you all kinds of hassle and repair costs, making it well worth the effort. For the best results, find the product that provides the coverage that meets your needs and keeps your engines and fuel systems in working order. More