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      The 7 Best Engine Flushes to Buy 2020

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      Every engine builds up carbon and other gunk inside as it runs. Over time, this builds up, and can cause lifters to stick, can clog the engine, and affects performance and fuel economy.
      Just changing the oil might not fix these issues. If that’s the case, you need to flush the engine to make sure that all of the contaminants in the engine are correctly cleared away.

      What is an Engine Flush?
      An engine flush is an after-market additive that’s poured into your engine’s oil-filler port. They’re designed to mix with the oil and move through the engine, melting away sludge and built-up carbon, causing your engine to run better.
      An engine flush generally comes in a small, single-use bottle that’s poured directly into the engine.
      What Can an Engine Flush Fix?
      Engine flushes can fix a whole range of problems, including:
      Built-up gunk and sludge from unburned fuel in the engine
      Carbonization buildup
      Increased oil usage
      Lowered performance from obstructed valves and combustion chambers
      Sticking lifters or valves
      Lower or prevent engine noises like ticking
      Cleans out oil filters
      What To Look for in an Engine Flush
      Several factors will help you decide exactly what kind of engine flush you need for your vehicle. When shopping around, consider the following:
      Performance
      How well does an engine flush actually pull out sludge, built-up carbon, and other compounds that gum up the works of your engine? How do the results of the clean actually affect performance? Make sure to invest in an engine cleaner that actually works.
      Compatibility
      There are three types of engine flushes: gasoline-engine specific flushes, diesel flushes, and universal flushes. Make sure you don’t use a diesel flush in your gas engine or vice versa, as instead of helping out your engine, you could end up doing serious damage.
      What’s Inside?
      Always important to consider in an engine flush is the chemical compound. Do your research on what’s a filler, what’s an active ingredient, and what are chemical etchers and acids that can sometimes do more harm than good.

      Top 7 Best Engine Flushes 2020
      1. Best Overall Engine Flush: Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush

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      Why we like it: The most trusted engine flush on the market, Liqui Moly 2037 can be used in almost any engine without issue, and delivers consistent performance that’s hard to match.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Performance
      The combination of simplicity and performance is why Liqui Moly is our number one choice. Suitable for almost any car or truck and completely safe, it melts away carbon deposits, debris, and other byproducts of combustion, opening up your engine and improving performance.
      It’s also one of the easiest products to use. You just have to pour it into a warm engine and let it idle for 15 minutes, then drain the old oil and replace it.
      The one downside with this flush is that it has no effect on oil usage. If you’re looking to buy a flush to decrease your oil consumption, then Liqui Moly isn’t the right choice. But for a general-purpose oil flush, consider this first.
      Compatibility
      Liqui Moly is compatible with almost everything with an engine. Petrol and diesel engines, four-stroke engines, it’s completely turbocharger safe, and neutral to seals and gaskets.
      What’s Inside
      Established in 1957, Liqui Moly is the market leader for engine additives, and it shows. They’re a German company that makes nothing but various engine liquids, with a dizzying 4000 products in the range.
      The active parts of the formula are mineral oils and a weak acid that’s strong enough to burn away impurities but mild enough to be safe. Liqui Moly also contains additives that remove dirt, grime, varnish, gums, and other assorted buildup.

      Pros
      Simple to use
      Will works in almost any vehicle
      Effective at clearing sludge and protecting against corrosion

      Cons
      No effect on oil consumption

      2. Best Engine Flush for Performance Vehicles: Lubegard 95030 Engine Flush and Protect Pack

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      Why we like it: Lubegard is just as good as our top choice, and would easily take the crown due to its powerful, effective cleaning power, although it’s just slightly more expensive than other options.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Performance
      Lubegard engine flush is incredibly easy to use and get working in around 15 minutes. The cleaning power is exceptional, easily comparable to other top brands, and equivalent to anything else you could buy for home use.
      The real winner here is how Lubegard affects oil usage. After treating your engine, you could potentially increase the mileage on your next oil change by up to 30%.
      Compatibility
      Lubegard is another universally compatible engine flush, meaning it’s safe to use with gasoline and diesel engines, as well as four stroke engines. The formula is also completely safe for gaskets and seals. If you’re looking for a diesel-specific cleaner, take a look at the XADO Special Xtreme Diesel Flush.
      Whatever you’re driving, Lubegard is almost certainly suited for it.
      What’s Inside
      Unlike a lot of engine flushes, Lubegard has no harmful solvents. Zero. Not even a low-molar acid like Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush. Instead, it’s built around a powerful series of detergents, dispersants, and other softer cleaning agents that break down the garbage without attacking the engine itself.
      Lubegard is a solid option at up to 100,000 miles, and in our opinion, should always be bought as a twin pack with Lubegard Bio-Tech oil protectant, which is added after the flush and extends the life of your oil and your engine.

      Pros
      Easy to use
      Safe on gaskets and seals
      Synthetic blend that works with petrol and diesel

      Cons
      Slightly more expensive than other options

      3. Best for Improving Fuel Efficiency: Wynns 51265 Engine Flush

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      Why we like it: A simple little engine flush that’s highly effective at maintaining engine performance, without harsh chemicals or additives.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Performance
      Like all high-quality flushes, Wynn’s 51265 will melt through anything that’s affecting the performance of your engine, including carbon deposits, sludge, varnishes, and other chemicals.
      It’s very simple to use. Add to a warm engine and let the car idle for twenty minutes. Then drain and change the oil as normal. Some users recommend adding Wynn’s to your car and taking it for a short drive, or revving it halfway through the process, but we can’t recommend either of these. It’s best to follow the instructions.
      Compatibility
      Wynn’s works with all diesel and gas engines, and with all types of oil, including synthetic mineral and multigrade oils, although our favorite diesel engine flush is this XADO Special Xtreme Diesel Flush.
      Wynn’s engine flush is also compatible with stationary equipment and other heavy-duty equipment.
      What’s Inside
      The active component of Wynn’s 51265 is a very highly concentrated detergent. There are no harsh solvents, meaning that this is incredibly safe for older vehicles that might have valves and seals that are wearing down.
      In fact, Wynn’s flush actually neutralizes acids, preventing aggressive chemicals from damaging the internals of your engine. One can treats up to 6 liters of oil.

      Pros
      Efficient and powerful cleanser
      Simple to use

      Cons
      The chemical formula is aggressive. Use protective gear

      4. Best for High Mileage Vehicles: STP 18566 High-Mileage Engine Flush

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      Why we like it: Specifically engineered for cars and trucks with over 75,000 miles on the clock, STP is the single best choice if you’re looking to extend the lifespan of a car that’s seen a lot of miles.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Performance
      STP high-mileage has been designed from the ground up for high-mileage cars. It’s actually scientifically engineered and proven to improve oil drain on older cars with damaged seals.
      In less than 15 minutes, it will burn through all the impurities in your engine, reducing sludge and varnish on cylinder heads, dissolving deposits in the engine, and clearing intake valves and combustion chambers. All without harming any seals.
      For cars that haven’t been looked after correctly, either lack of oil changes, or just general wear and tear, STP 18566 could give them a brand new lease on life.
      Compatibility
      STP 18566 is supposed to be universally compatible with any engine, whether it’s diesel or gas, but the formula is designed around large amounts of miles.
      This is important, as the formula is much stronger than the majority of products on the market, so make sure you read the directions and confirm that this is suitable for your vehicle.
      What’s Inside
      STP 18566 is supposedly a proprietary blend of powerful solvents and super-concentrated cleaning agents. We couldn’t find an exact ingredients list, but it bears repeating that this flush was designed for high-mileage cars that need a strong solvent.
      Unless your car has at least 75,000 miles on the clock, do not buy this. It will be too strong for your engine. But if you need a powerful, effective flush that’s going to clean all of the gunk from even the roughest engine, you’ve found the right product.

      Pros
      Strong, powerful flush
      Budget pricing
      Perfect for high-mileage cars

      Cons
      Solvents might be too strong for newer cars
      Instructions can be difficult to follow

      5. Best Budget Engine Flush: Seafoam SF-16 Motor Treatment

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      Why we like it: A powerful little flush that targets the areas that get hit most, all for a budget price.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Performance
      Seafoam SF-16 wasn’t specifically designed as an engine flush, but it more than does the job of one. The pure petroleum formula can be used on carb jets, fuel injectors, pistons, intake valves, and of course, as an oil flush.
      Unlike standard flushes, the process for using Seafoam is a little different. You add a small amount (around 30ml per liter of engine oil used) then drive as normal for several hundred miles. Once you’ve put a couple of hundred miles into the car, change the oil as normal.
      Seafoam can dissolve oil deposits, fuel residue, clean intakes, and more. For such a budget product, it does an awful lot.
      Compatibility
      As we already mentioned, Seafoam wasn’t originally designed as an engine flush. Because of that, it’s compatible with a much larger range of things than your general flush.
      Picking up a bottle of this means that you could potentially treat a whole range of things. If you have a bike, a boat, even if you just want to treat your lawnmower, it’s all safe to use.
      What’s Inside
      Seafoam is a pure petroleum formula. That means no corrosive solvents, no detergents, no harsh chemicals.
      However, it does mean you have to be more careful using this. It’s not a one-stop, dump the bottle into your engine and leave it kind of product. Instead, Seafoam needs a measured hand that knows what they’re doing. If you’re new to car maintenance, pick up something simpler. If you want a product that’s basically a toolbox in a bottle, this is a great choice.

      Pros
      Fantastic value
      Targets the areas of the engine that are most heavily affected by fuel deposits
      Multiple ways to use it

      Cons
      Doesn’t have the best results on high mileage cars

      6. Rislone High-Milage Engine Treatment

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      Why we like it: A powerful solvent-based flush for a ridiculously low price.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Performance
      Rislone is one of the original engine additive makers, with a business lineage stretching back almost one hundred years.
      This high-mileage engine treatment is a little different from the other flushes on our list. You put it into the engine at the same time as you change the oil, but instead of flushing the system and purging the old oil and flush, you add this with the new oil.
      At that point, it sits in the system, doing what an oil flush would do, every time you start your engine.
      Rislone cleans away gunk, restores the internals of your engine, and helps to protect sensitive parts. It can also help with stuck valves and noisy lifters, and burns away sludge, slowly improving performance.
      Compatibility
      Rislone is only compatible with gasoline engines. It’s not compatible with diesel. Looking for a diesel flush? Check out this flush from XADO.
      It can be added to engine oil at any point but works best if it’s added to clean oil after an oil change.
      What’s Inside
      Built around a petroleum oil formula with added detergents, Rislone is safe and low impact, with no harsh solvents.
      Rislone also sells an engine treatment fluid designed to reduce engine noise and increase performance drops caused by low oil pressure. This is incredibly simple to use, it only needs to be added to your engine and run for around one hundred miles before you change your oil. If you’re considering flushing the engine, picking up a bottle of Rislone Engine Treatment to use first is a good choice.

      Pros
      Runs with your car protecting it on a daily basis
      Reduces wear and protects your engine
      Great value

      Cons
      Not as strong as conventional engine flushes
      Doesn’t extend engine life

      7. Best Diesel Truck Flush: XADO Special Xtreme Diesel Flush

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      Why we like it: Specifically designed for the heavy-duty impact of large-volume diesel engines, if you drive a truck and you need a flush that’s going to cope, this is it.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Performance
      Diesel engines are heavier and work harder than petrol engines, and diesel itself is up to 20% denser than conventional gasoline, with a surprising amount of impurities.
      Because of this, it’s common for diesel engines, especially larger engines, to build up those impurities and start to chug, especially after a hundred thousand miles.
      This flush is built around that idea. Because it’s designed for diesel engines, it’s powerful, burning away carbon deposits and helping to lift stuck rings.
      As a diesel flush, it’s also safe to use when driving, which is our recommended method. When adding this to the engine, drive it a short distance (around fifteen miles is fine) to let the flush work through a hot system.
      Compatibility
      Fully turbocharger safe, this flush is designed for and around larger diesel engines. There is no better option if you drive a large truck or van and need to flush the engine.
      Another huge advantage of this flush is how far a single can goes. A conventional bottle of engine flush is designed to work with a normal oil system, which might contain three to five liters of oil.
      But larger trucks need a lot more oil in their system. Which is why this one 500ml can of this flush can be used with up to 10 gallons (37 liters) of oil.
      What’s Inside
      The XADO diesel flush is built around a strong cleaning compound, backed up with abrasives to scour the worst of the engine muck clean, and a proprietary revitalizer that creates a barrier on the internal surfaces of the engine, slowing carbon build up in the future.
      Because of the increased work done by large diesel engines, it’s recommended that XADO diesel flushes are used after every oil change.

      Pros
      Specifically designed for large diesel engines
      One can goes a long way
      Still relatively inexpensive

      Cons
      Should only be used with diesel trucks

      Buying an Engine Flush: What You Need to Know
      From use instructions to figuring out exactly what an engine flush does, there’s plenty to learn. Read on to learn the most important details on engine flushes.
      The Benefits of an Engine Flush
      Engine flushes can fix a whole host of issues with your engine, including:
      Removing Contaminants: Just running your engine causes burnt carbon and other fuel impurities to build up inside an engine. If it’s never flushed away, it will gradually build up over time and affect performance.
      Cleaning the Engine From Inside: Most working parts of an engine can’t be cleaned without pulling the engine to pieces, which is expensive and time-consuming. A flush can help keep the most important working parts clean and running healthy.
      Prolonging the Life of Oil: It stands to reason that putting clean oil into a filthy engine is going to make the oil just as dirty. Flushing the engine before changing the oil means that the new oil will stay fresh and clean for longer, improving performance and engine lifespan.
      Boosting Fuel Economy: An improperly running engine that faces extra resistance will use more fuel and put out less power, meaning more fuel consumption, especially at higher speeds.
      Minimizing Emissions: Stuck rings can let oil into the combustion chambers, where it will burn, leaving carbonized deposits throughout the whole engine and massively increasing emissions, including sometimes literally burning oil.
      The Key Features of an Engine Flush
      While most engine flushes promise similar results, they each take different approaches and use different ingredients to get the job done. Consider the following:
      Compatibility
      The most important part of an engine flush is whether it’s suited to your engine. Flushes will either be compatible with gasoline engines, diesel engines, or both.
      Using the wrong kind of engine flush is a really bad idea, as it can cause more damage to your engine. For the best results, we recommend choosing well-known brands that are suitable for both gasoline and diesel engines.
      Does it Contain Solvents?
      Some engine flushes use solvents to burn away accumulated gunk and carbon from the engine. While most flushes will contain a mild solvent to help deal with particularly stubborn concentrations of gunk, it’s not recommended that most people purchase an engine flush with strong solvents, as it can cause damage to gaskets and engine seals.
      How Easy is it to Use?
      Most engine flushes are designed to be simple to use. In fact, most flushes are just poured into the oil tank and left to do their thing.
      But some stronger flushes need a specific engine flush machine to push them through the engine. Our list contains no flushes that require a flushing machine because, in our opinion, the benefits are outweighed by the downsides, but it’s something to bear in mind if you’re purchasing from elsewhere.
      What Additives are in Your Engine Flush?
      Every engine flush is a chemical soup designed to burn away carbon and other muck from inside your engine. Most flushes will contain the following list of additives, in some concentration:
      Anti-wear additives: That help prevent long-term wear inside the engine
      Detergents: Which helps to break down and melt away contaminants
      Dispersants: To break larger particles down and make sure they flow out of the engine
      Lubricants: Unstick valves and make sure that everything is running cleanly
      Rust inhibitors: To prevent rust from building up inside older engines
      Knowing When to Flush your Engine
      If you listen to your car, it will clearly tell you when you need to flush your engine. Signs include:
      A drop in overall performance, including less power
      Using a lot more oil than usual
      The smell of burning oil, especially when the engine has been running for a while
      A constant ticking or rattling from the engine
      It’s also worth knowing that multiple short journeys are much worse on your engine than taking several longer ones, even if you drive the same total distance.
      This is because multiple short journeys don’t give the oil enough time to heat up correctly. Moisture also builds up inside the oil, and without time for the engine to rest, won’t break down correctly. Heat and dust can cause an engine to wear far faster than it otherwise would.
      Most modern engine oils already come with additives similar to engine flushes as part of the mixture. But these can only last for so long, and will eventually break down. So a car that’s not had an oil change for a significant time is also a good candidate for an oil flush.
      Should I Regularly Flush My Engine?
      It’s not usually necessary to regularly flush your engine. Engine flushes are only designed to be used when an engine has built up an excess of gunk and other harmful deposits.
      If you look after your car correctly, you should only need to perform an engine flush around once a year, though this might change if you drive long distances or live in a hot and dusty climate. If you do regularly drive thousands of miles for work or pleasure, or live in the desert, it might be necessary to flush your engine every time you change the oil.
      How Do You Flush an Engine?
      The process of flushing an engine is surprisingly simple.
      Start by turning your car on. Let it run for ten to fifteen minutes until the engine is at a normal operating temperature.
      Open your oil cap, being careful as it might be hot after leaving the engine running.
      Pour the required amount of engine flush into your engine. This can vary between manufacturers. Some will require a certain amount depending on the size of your engine, but most flushes come as a single-use bottle.
      Recap the oil tank, and let your engine run without revving for another ten minutes, to let the flush work its way through the oil system.
      Turn the engine off, and give it a few minutes to cool.
      Change your oil, following the normal process.
      The last step is particularly important. It’s vital to change your oil immediately after you run an engine flush, every time you use an engine flush!
      How Much Does an Engine Flush Cost?
      Engine flushes aren’t expensive. Most branded engine flushes will cost twenty to thirty dollars on average.
      Considering the benefits, that’s a tiny cost, especially if you’re doing it from home.
      A professional engine flush performed in an auto shop is slightly more expensive and might cost you between one hundred and two hundred dollars. But realistically, engine flushes are so easy to use that there’s no need to ever get the procedure done in the shop.
      Can an Engine Flush Damage Your Engine?
      Yes. Used incorrectly, there are two ways an engine flush can damage your engine.
      First, a flush that is too corrosive can damage seals and gaskets, causing more long term problems than they fix.
      Flushes that contain highly corrosive solvents are only suitable for professional use, or to clear heavily stuck sealing rings.
      Second, a flush that’s too weak can also cause damage to an engine by freeing up a large chunk of deposit or sludge from an area and causing it to move somewhere else in the engine, without actually breaking it down, where it can cause more damage.
      In general, cheaper flushes tend to have weaker solvents and detergents, so it’s best to avoid them.
      Can I Use an Engine Flush with Older Cars?
      If your car is particularly old with high mileage, you should be careful when using an engine flush.
      Older cars that have been badly maintained might have engine seals that are held together primarily through oil and sludge.
      If this is the case, an engine flush could disturb the seals and cause longer-term problems.
      How to Choose the Correct Engine Flush
      Choosing the correct engine flush is mostly about matching the requirements for the engine of your vehicle.
      Make sure you read the engine flush bottle. Each bottle will clearly state which oil grades it can be used with and whether it has an expiration date.
      Also, follow the manufacturer’s instructions on your vehicle. Most handbooks will have instructions on how to change your oil, and flushing an engine uses almost exactly the same process.
      Make sure never to buy engine flushes that contain harsh chemical solvents. Cheaper flushes rely on acids and other solvents that can wear down the internals of your engine, doing damage to seals and gaskets and actually making your engine run significantly worse in the long run. Engine flushes like Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush don’t use these compounds.
      The only exception to this is if you drive an older vehicle with an engine that sticks or chokes. In this case, an engine flush that contains a mild solvent could be useful to help lift stuck rings or lifters, clearing the problem and letting your engine run smoother.
      How to Minimize Engine Sludge
      Minimizing engine sludge is one of the easiest ways to keep your car running as it should. The following simple steps will help reduce all types of compound buildup.
      Change your engine oil regularly (check out a list of our favorite engine oils here).
      Use a premium synthetic oil that’s designed for your engine
      Avoid taking short journeys where possible, especially in sequence.
      Will I Need Anything Else When Flushing My Engine?
      If you’re planning on flushing your engine correctly, then yes, you’ll need to buy several things in preparation
      An engine flush should be performed at the same time as an oil change. This means you’ll need the same tools as you would for an oil change, which should include:
      New oil
      A new oil filter
      A wrench
      Something to catch the used oil in
      Expect the whole process to take around two hours. Changing your oil can take up to an hour, and flushing an engine takes around half an hour. With added setup and cleaning time, two hours is a safe bet for duration, especially if this is your first time flushing an engine.
      How Do I Get Rid of Waste Engine Flush?
      When you flush your engine, the engine flush chemicals exit the engine mixed with the used oils.
      Start by catching the used motor oil. You can buy a drainage pan for a very low price, which will capture the used oil and let you transport it easily.
      It’s common for oil spots to end up on the ground, despite putting down a capture pan. If this happens, use an absorbent material like kitty litter or sawdust to soak it up, then sweep up the debris.
      When moving used oil, it needs to be transported correctly in a tightly sealed container. Never pour oil down the drain or throw it in the trash. EPA sources suggest that one car’s worth of oil poured down the drain could potentially contaminate up to one million gallons of water. Don’t do it!
      Most local auto-parts stores will have the option to recycle used oil. If your local store doesn’t offer this service, you will need to find a recycling station.
      Final Thoughts
      When you’re working on your well-loved car, the simpler a product is to use, the better. Pair that with impressive performance and it’s easy to see why the products on our list are well trusted. More

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      The 10 Best Motorcycle Batteries to Buy 2020

      by

      The open road, the wind in your hair, and the rumble of a powerful engine–every motorcycle owner’s dream. But before you can get that engine firing, you need a battery that can start your vehicle and power the electronics. It’s not the most glamorous job in the world, but it’s one that needs to be done well nonetheless. And that’s why you need to pay close attention when buying a battery for your motorcycle.
      Thankfully, there are plenty of battery manufacturers and types from which to choose. But in order to make the right choice, you have to pick the best battery for the motorcycle that you own. Let’s find out how you would go about making that decision.

      How to Choose a Motorcycle Battery
      The oldest type of batteries are lead-acid batteries. They come in two forms, unsealed and sealed lead-acid batteries. Lithium batteries are a newer invention and can be pricier as a result. The most common type on our list is sealed AGM batteries, which are compact, powerful, and effective enough for most motorcycle users.
      Should I Buy a Lead-Acid or Lithium Motorcycle Battery?
      We go into much more detail about the types of motorcycle batteries in our full buyer’s guide. For now, let’s focus on the important decision on whether you want a lithium battery or a lead-acid one.
      The Case for Lithium Motorcycle Batteries
      Lithium batteries are the newer entrant in this category so let’s find out what they do better.
      You will notice that lithium batteries like the Shorai LFX LFX09A2 and Battery Tender BTL09A150CW are significantly lighter than their lead-acid counterparts. This is true for most lithium batteries. A lighter battery can lead to zippier performance from your motorcycle. This is especially true if you have a relatively light motorcycle.
      Lithium battery aficionados also enjoy the slow rate at which they self-discharge. The Shorai LFX LFX09A2, for example, has a very slow discharge rate. You can leave such batteries unused for months and see that they’ve retained most of their charge. Lead-acid batteries lose charge a lot faster when they sit static. So if you have periods where you don’t use your motorcycle for a long time, a lithium battery may be a good choice.
      The Case for Lead-Acid Batteries
      Lead-acid batteries are more affordable in general. The average lead-acid battery is usually about 50% cheaper than a lithium battery in the same bracket. There are some exceptions, but if price is an important consideration, you’re likely going to find more lead-acid batteries within budget. Modern AGM batteries are still very good at their job.
      Lead-acid batteries also have an important performance advantage over lithium batteries: they handle deep discharges better. Lithium batteries can die if they undergo a deep discharge and lead to what’s known as battery swelling. Lead-acid batteries can handle deep discharges a lot better. There are, however, lithium batteries like the Battery Tender BTL09A150CW, which uses additional technology to prevent deep discharges.
      There are several factors to take into account when you buy a new battery for your motorcycle. Battery manufacturers tech specs can be confusing though. In case battery product pages have left you scratching your head with all the different features and figures they mention, here’s a rundown of the important ones to keep in mind.
      Important Motorcycle Battery Features
      Here are some measurable metrics to keep a tab on when buying a motorcycle battery.
      Voltage
      The power rating of your motorcycle battery will depend on its size. Most motorcycles require a 12V battery. However, smaller motorcycles can have a lesser power rating. You can still use a battery with a higher power rating than required, but that may not be the most economical choice for a motorcycle that doesn’t require it.
      Capacity
      The capacity of a battery is what you’ll see expressed in the form of amp-hours (Ah) on product pages. This figure tells you how much charge a battery dispenses when a current of 1 ampere is passed for an hour.
      Let’s say you come across a battery with a capacity of 16 Ah. That would mean it can generate 16 amperes of current per hour. If the rating is expressed as 18 Ah/10 hours, that means you can get 1.8 amperes of current from the battery for 10 hours.
      Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)
      CCA is a measure of how many amperes of current a battery can generate for 30 seconds while maintaining a minimum voltage of 7.2 volts at 0°F. Essentially, it tells you how well your battery will perform at low temperatures.
      Motorcycle owners know that starting their vehicles in cold weather can be a challenge. A high CCA value (above 200 CCA at least) tells you that your battery will be able to handle low temperatures easily.
      Other Factors to Consider When Buying a Motorcycle Battery
      Below are some key considerations that may not always be expressed in the form of a number.
      Fit
      The most basic question to ask is if the battery you have your eyes on will fit your motorcycle. Luckily, Amazon does the heavy lifting for you in this department. You can go to any battery’s product page and enter the make of your motorcycle and the site will tell you if that particular product is a fit.
      That said, Amazon’s fit widget for motorcycle batteries isn’t perfect, so you can also go about this process in the old-fashioned way. Your motorcycle’s manual will contain information on the dimensions of the battery compartment. Use that as a guide to buying your new battery. You could also measure your old battery and use that to figure out whether a new battery will fit.
      A battery that’s too big for your two-wheeler’s battery compartment is a no-go, of course. But one that’s smaller can still do the job. You will have to add shims or spacers to ensure it sits in there snugly.
      Maintenance
      Different kinds of batteries require different levels of maintenance. There are batteries out there that don’t require a lot of maintenance. So if you’re someone who doesn’t want to keep checking on the battery, look for a maintenance-free sealed battery. If price is an important factor and you don’t mind doing some maintenance, an unsealed battery can do the job.
      Durability
      The durability of a battery depends on several factors. The construction of the battery itself can play a major role in how long it lasts. If a manufacturer tells you that a battery is vibration resistant or has heavy-duty terminals, that’s a good sign that it’s a durable product.
      The durability of a battery also comes down to your personal preferences. If you live in a cold climate, a battery with a low CCA rating will not be very durable. So in that case, choose a battery with a high CCA rating. In general, look out for features like heat- and vibration-resistance to get yourself a battery that can hold its own through rough use.
      Armed with these basics, let’s show you some great batteries that’ll keep your motorcycle purring for many years to come. In our full guide, we’ll cover the types in more detail and show you how to install it.

      Top 10 Best Motorcycle Batteries 2020
      1. Best Overall Motorcycle Battery: Yuasa YTZ10S

      View on Amazon
      Why we like it: The Yuasa YTZ10S is easy to install and lasts a very long time – sometimes as long as ten years.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      Type: AGM
      Capacity: 8.6 Ah
      Cold-cranking amps: 190 CCA
      Weight: 7 pounds
      Dimensions: 5.91 x 3.43 x 3.66 inches
      The Yuasa YTZ10S is a battery that checks a lot of important boxes for motorcycle owners. It’s clear the manufacturer has put a great deal of thought into making this product easy to use and long-lasting.
      To start things off, installing the YTZ10S is a breeze. The nuts come with holders that keep them in place while you attach the wires to the body of the battery. It also comes pre-charged, which is nice for motorcycle owners excited to take it for a spin right away.
      You can expect this battery to last a lot longer than the average motorcycle battery and perform just as well through the years. You could leave your motorcycle in storage for as long as two years and still come back to a Yuasa YTZ10S that snapped it back to life with one crank, although it’s not guaranteed. The sealed AGM structure ensures minimal leaks and ease of maintenance.
      One thing that may give you pause is that this battery costs more than the average motorcycle battery. However, the ease of use and long shelf life justify the price tag.
      If you do decide to go with the Yuasa YTZ10S, make sure to cross-check the battery dimensions with your motorcycle’s battery compartment manually. Amazon’s fit widget can get it wrong with certain motorcycle models. The 2013 Honda CBR500R, 2015 Yamaha FZ-07, and 2016 Yamaha FZ-09 are some of the motorcycles on which the battery fits.

      Pros
      Long shelf life
      Ease of installation
      Easy to maintain

      Cons
      Relatively high price

      2. Best Budget Motorcycle Battery: Chrome YTX12-BS

      View on Amazon
      Why we like it: The Chrome YTX12-BS is an impressive performer considering its low price tag. The battery comes with a built-in LCD screen that you can use to read the voltage and find out when it’s too low for a ride.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      Type: AGM
      Cold-cranking amps: 180 CCA
      Weight: 7.51 pounds
      Dimensions: 5.91 x 3.43 x 5.12 inches
      The first thing that you’ll notice about the Chrome YTX12-BS is that it has a digital screen built into its body. The screen keeps you updated on the alternator’s voltage and lets you know when it’s time for a recharge. Charging it becomes even simpler if you purchase the cable extensions and battery tender that the manufacturer sells as add-ons. The extensions make it easy to connect the charger and the tender ensures optimal charge levels.
      The Chrome YTX12-BS makes this list primarily because it is a very affordable motorcycle battery. You’re probably wondering if affordable means compromised performance. Not in the case of this battery. Owners of motorcycles like the Ducati 1098, which has a high-compression twin-engine, report that the battery is more than capable of handling high-performance requirements.
      The one problem you may face with the YTX12-BS is during installation. The battery posts of this product are not threaded. You may have to attach the cable extra carefully so that the square nut it uses sits still.

      Pros
      Very affordable
      Built-in LCD screen
      Can handle high-performance motorcycles

      Cons
      Un-threaded battery posts

      3. Best Premium Motorcycle Battery: ThrottleX MX30L

      View on Amazon
      Why we like it: The ThrottleX MX30L has some of the best quantitative metrics among motorcycle batteries and its real-world performance reflects that.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      Type: AGM
      Capacity: 30 Ah
      Cold-cranking amps: 600 CCA
      Weight: 22.5 lbs
      Dimensions: 6.62 x 5.19 x 6.87 inches
      A capacity of 30 amp-hours and 600 cold-cranking amps: two numbers that stand out in the ThrottleX MX30L’s product description page. Those are some big figures but what do they translate to in terms of real-world use?
      The high capacity and cold-cranking amperage lead to some very tangible performance benefits. Motorcycle owners with engines like the 103 cubic-inch motor on the Harley Davidson Electra Glide report that the MX30L can spin it with greater ease than other batteries. You could idle a motorcycle with all the lights on and the radio playing and still see a voltage output as high as 14 volts.
      The ThrottleX MX30L tends to be popular among Harley Davidson owners. Some Harley Hogs have claimed it works better than the stock battery. So if you own a Harley, this battery is one to consider. It helps that the battery is a maintenance-free AGM model that also comes with a heat-sealed cover. The latter makes it resistant to high temperatures.
      Make sure to keep an eye on any electronics you connect to your motorcycle when you use the ThrottleX MX30L, especially through a USB port. It can sometimes continue to power the USB outlets even after the motorcycle has been turned off.

      Pros
      High capacity and CCA
      Fits well on Harley Davidson motorcycles
      Heat seal for temperature resistance

      Cons
      Can overcharge electronics even after the motorcycle is turned off
      Heavier than average batteries

      4. Most Durable Motorcycle Battery: ExpertPower EXP1270

      View on Amazon
      Why we like it: The ExpertPower EXP1270 is encased in a hardened ABS plastic shell, which makes it durable and resistant to spills.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      Type: AGM
      Capacity: 7 Ah
      Weight: 4.3 pounds
      Dimensions: 6 x 2.5 x 3.7 inches
      The ExpertPower EXP1270 is often used to power home security systems, solar collectors, lighting equipment, and other such devices. It can also play its part as a motorcycle battery.
      The reason such a versatile battery has found its way onto motorcycles is primarily because of its durability. A layer of hardened ABS plastic protects the core of the battery from external elements. It also holds in any leaked liquid. The battery’s AGM technology ensures that it can deliver high currents sustainably.
      Motorcycle owners will enjoy how easy the ExpertPower EXP1270 is to install. The product is good to go out of the box; you don’t need to add acid or charge it. At 2.5 inches wide and 3.7 inches in height, it’s one of the more compact batteries out there.
      The ExpertPower EXP1270 isn’t the most powerful battery out there. If you want more power in an AGM battery and are willing to spend some extra cash, the ThrottleX MX30L is recommended.

      Pros
      Very durable
      Easy to install
      Compact

      Cons
      Modest capacity

      5. Best Lithium Battery: Battery Tender BTL09A150CW

      View on Amazon
      Why we like it: This battery is very lightweight and features a smart circuit board that prevents overdrain and overcharging.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      Type: Lithium
      Capacity: 2.5 Ah
      Cold-cranking amps: 150 CCA
      Weight: 1.35 pounds
      Dimensions: 4.45 x 2.76 x 3.35 inches
      When buying a lithium battery, motorcycle owners worry about whether deep discharges can lead to the battery dying on them. Some lithium batteries have that tendency, but not the Battery Tender BTL09A150CW. This battery uses a smart battery management system that shuts off the battery as soon as the possibility of overcharging is detected.
      Another important benefit of choosing the Battery Tender BTL09A150CW is that it is extremely lightweight, much like the Shorai LFX LFX09A2. It weighs just 1.35 pounds out of the box. It’s also got quad terminals, which means you can install it in different positions easily.
      The 2.5 Ah and 150 CCA this battery offers may not be sufficient for everyone. It has a tendency to crank slower as temperatures drop.

      Pros
      Smart battery management system
      Lightweight
      Quad terminals for easy installation

      Cons
      May not perform well at low temperatures

      6. Most Lightweight Motorcycle Battery: Shorai LFX LFX09A2

      View on Amazon
      Why we like it: The Shorai weighs just about a fifth of the average lead-acid battery and is sulfation-proof.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      Type: Lithium
      Capacity: 9 Ah
      Cold-cranking amps: 135 CCA
      Weight: 1.27 pounds
      Dimensions: 6.7 x 5.9 x 3.5 inches
      For those who own lightweight motorcycles, weight is an important consideration when buying a battery. A heavy battery like the ThrottleX MX30L will likely weigh you down more than you would like in that case. At just 1.27 pounds, the Shorai LFX LFX09A2 is a great option for those looking for a lightweight motorcycle battery.
      Despite its small size, the battery does its job well. Owners of motorcycles like the Honda XR650L report that the battery can start its engine better than heavier lead-acid units. The manufacturer includes foam pads to use as shims in case the battery is smaller than your motorcycle’s battery compartment. This makes the installation process easy.
      Where the Shorai LFX LFX09A2 does lack a little bit is in the way it responds to intensive usage demands. It’s not always able to handle heavy cranking. If you don’t mind a slightly heavier battery and want better performance, the Chrome YTX12-BS is a good choice.

      Pros
      Lightweight
      Foam pads to use as shims
      Easy installation

      Cons
      May not handle heavy engine cranking well

      7. Chrome YTX30L-BS

      View on Amazon
      Why we like it: The Chrome YTX30L-BS has a versatile fit and is very easy to install on a range of motorcycles.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      Type: AGM
      Capacity: 30 Ah
      Cold-cranking amps: 385 CCA
      Weight: 19.81 pounds
      Dimensions: 6.54 x 4.96 x 6.89 inches
      The Chrome YTX30L-BS is the second battery on our list by this manufacturer. The first one, the Chrome YTX12-BS, stood out for its affordability. The Chrome YTX30L-BS is pricier but makes the list for its versatility and ease of installation.
      Chrome includes two screws and a rectangular nut to help with installing this battery. The battery posts are designed in such a way that you can attach leads to it from different directions depending on the way your battery compartment is constructed. So you can set it up in a top mount or face mount just as easily depending on what works for your motorcycle.
      Although the Chrome YTX30L-BS costs more than the Chrome YTX12-BS, it is still a lot more affordable than motorcycle batteries that offer similar performance. The 30 Ah capacity is on the high end for this type of motorcycle battery. The Harley Davidson Ultra Classic Electra Glide, BMW K75, and 2003 Harley Road King are some of the models this battery fits perfectly.
      The manufacturer claims a cold-cranking amperage of 385 CCA but this may not always translate to good cold-weather performance. This means the battery may not always be able to start motorcycles at temperatures under 40 degrees.

      Pros
      Versatile fit
      Affordable
      High capacity

      Cons
      Poor cold weather performance

      8. Odyssey PC680

      View on Amazon
      Why we like it: The Odyssey PC680 performs well in cold weather and has an impressive shelf life.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      Type: AGM
      Capacity: 16 Ah
      Cold-cranking amps: 170 CCA
      Weight: 15.03 pounds
      Dimensions: 7.15 x 3 x 6.65 inches
      We’ve seen that batteries like the Battery Tender BTL09A150CW and Chrome YTX30L-BS don’t always perform well in cold weather conditions. If you’re wondering what battery can handle lower temperatures, the Odyssey PC680 is a good choice.
      This battery can do that thanks to its 170 CCA in cold-cranking amperage. This is a great battery in parts of the country that experience harsh winters as it handles these conditions extremely well.
      The manufacturers claim a 70% longer cycle life for the Odyssey PC680. That usually means a long shelf life and that’s consistent with customer feedback. The Odyssey PC680 seems capable of lasting as long as eight years on motorcycles like the BMW R1100R. That’s thanks in part to the fact that it’s protected from mechanical vibration and high-impact shock well.
      The Odyssey PC680 is a solid cold-weather battery but that comes at a cost. The product is priced higher than the average AGM battery.

      Pros
      Dependable cold weather performance
      Long shelf life
      Vibration-resistant design

      Cons
      High price

      9. Yuasa YUAM320BS YTX20L-BS

      View on Amazon
      Why we like it: The Yuasa YUAM320BS YTX20L-BS is a good alternative to the high-end Yuasa YTZ10S and a solid performer.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      Type: AGM
      Capacity: 18 Ah
      Cold-cranking amps: 270 CCA
      Weight: 14.85 pounds
      Dimensions: 6.87″ x 3.43″ x 6.12″
      The Yuasa YTZ10S is an excellent motorcycle battery. However, it is not the easiest on the pocket. If you want to remain within the Yuasa family but not spend as much, the YUAM320BS YTX20L-BS is a good alternative.
      This battery is a solid performer with a capacity of 18 Ah and 270 CCA. It’s also about 25% cheaper than its high-end brother. Since it uses an AGM construction, you will never have to deal with spills and don’t need to replenish it with water.
      What’s the catch? Some units of the Yuasa YUAM320BS YTX20L-BS may not charge or hold a charge very well out of the box. If that does happen, you can get in touch with the manufacturer for a replacement.

      Pros
      More affordable than the Yuasa YTZ10S
      High capacity and CCA
      Spill-free

      Cons
      Some units may not hold a charge

      10. ZPC ZPC-YTX14-BS

      View on Amazon
      Why we like it: The ZPC ZPC-YTX14-BS costs only a fraction of some of its competitors and performs better than you’d expect at that price.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      Type: AGM
      Capacity: 12 Ah
      Cold-cranking amps: 200 CCA
      Weight: 9.92 pounds
      Dimensions: 5.8 x 3.26 x 5.71 inches
      The ZPC ZPC-YTX14-BS is a budget motorcycle battery that performs well above its pay grade. Owners of motorcycles like the Honda Shadow Sabre have used this product and come away being impressed by its performance. It can handle not just firing up the motorcycle, but also auxiliary components like audio systems and LED lights.
      This is an AGM battery that’s easy to maintain. It can take as little as 10 minutes to install this in your motorcycle. The 200 CCA cold-cranking amperage means you can still fire your motorcycle up in cold weather.
      One thing to watch out for with this battery is that it can have issues holding a charge. It can die if the motorcycle hasn’t been started for as little as 24 hours. Connecting the ZPC ZPC-YTX14-BS to a trickle charger when not using your motorcycle can help prevent that. If the rate of discharge is a problem, lithium batteries like the Battery Tender BTL09A150CW are a good option since they self-discharge very slowly.

      Pros
      Affordable
      Easy to install
      200 cold-cranking amps for cold weather use

      Cons
      May not hold a charge for very long

      Everything You Need to Know About Buying a Motorcycle Battery
      Now that we know what’s is available on the market, we will figure out how you can go about choosing the right motorcycle battery and get the best out of it. First, here’s a more detailed guide to the types of batteries that are on our list and some which aren’t.
      Types of Motorcycle Batteries
      Lithium Batteries
      Lithium batteries are made of lithium along with elements like iron and phosphorus. This chemistry is considered superior to that of lead-acid batteries. The main reason for that is lithium batteries can hold a charge longer when not in use.
      Read more about how to choose between lead-acid and lithium batteries for your motorcycle battery in our guide here.
      Unsealed Batteries
      Unsealed motorcycle batteries are also known as flooded batteries or wet-cell batteries. These are lead-acid batteries, which means that the plates are made of lead and lead oxide. The liquid inside is a mix of water and sulfuric acid.
      The reason these are known as flooded batteries is because of the generous volume of liquid they use. But the liquid inside can seep through if the battery isn’t oriented properly or undergoes turbulent movement.
      For motorcycle owners, that means unsealed batteries require a lot more maintenance. You have to make sure that the battery sits snugly in its compartment so that the liquid doesn’t seep out.
      Another thing to keep in mind is that the water within the battery can evaporate or freeze depending on the temperature. If you own this kind of battery, you have to regularly check the water levels using a battery water level indicator to make sure that the recommended level is maintained.
      Sealed Batteries
      Now that we know what unsealed batteries are, you probably have an idea of what makes sealed batteries different. As the name suggests, the body of these batteries is sealed. More importantly, there is only enough liquid within the battery to facilitate the flow of electrolytes. That means you don’t need to worry about spills or adding water to the battery often.
      Since the design of these batteries prevents spills, sealed batteries are a lot easier to maintain than unsealed batteries. Another advantage is that they don’t use water as part of the battery liquid, so you don’t have to worry about evaporation or freezing if you live in a part of the world that experiences extreme temperatures.
      Sealed batteries do, however, have their drawbacks. Given the low volume of liquid within the battery, the amount of charge should always be maintained at optimal levels. Both undercharging and overcharging the battery can have a permanent effect on its shelf life. Sealed batteries can also be costlier than unsealed batteries.
      Types of Sealed Motorcycle Batteries
      There are two important categories of sealed motorcycle batteries to take note of.
      Gel Cell Batteries
      Gel cell batteries use a combination of sulfuric acid and fumed silica. So rather than being a liquid, it turns into a more gel-like substance. As a result, there’s no need to worry about things like spillage and evaporation.
      What can lead to corrosion in gel cell batteries is high-ampere currents. These can cause scars within the gel and corrode the plates. Use a low voltage setting when charging your gel cell battery to ensure it doesn’t suffer from the effects of overcharging.
      Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) Batteries
      AGM batteries look a lot like gel cell batteries in the way that they are constructed. The difference is that AGM batteries use a kind of glass fiber between the plates rather than a gel. This allows the plates to be placed closer to each other than usual since the movement of the acid is constrained by the glass sponge.
      Since the plates can be placed close to each other, AGM batteries can be smaller in size than other kinds. So if compactness is an important consideration, you will want to take a look at AGM batteries.
      How to Change Your Motorcycle Battery
      Now you’ve decided on a battery, or perhaps you already have it in your hands, we will show you how to swap the battery in your motorcycle for your new purchase.
      How to Remove a Motorcycle Battery
      Trying a new battery is exciting, but before you can yank out the OEM battery and install a new one, you need to read the service manual that came with your motorcycle. It will give you a lot of important information, but most importantly, it will tell you where the battery is on your motorcycle. Different manufacturers put it in different positions, so this part is important.
      Disconnecting the Cables
      Once you know where the existing battery is, it’s time to remove it. Start by disconnecting the negative cable, which is usually the black cable (refer to the service manual for the color). Working on the positive cable first creates the possibility of grounding the battery and getting an electric shock as a result.
      Once you’ve removed the negative cable, remove the positive cable. This one is usually red in color.
      Removing the Battery
      After removing both cables, free the battery of things like straps or foam shims holding it in place. Do this part carefully so that the lead nuts that attach the cables to the battery terminals don’t fall into crevices in the motorcycle’s body.
      How to Install a Motorcycle Battery
      After yoú’ve removed the battery you already have, you can move on to installing the new one.
      Prepping the New Battery
      Make sure you prep your new battery before installing it. Always fill your battery with acid (if you need to) before you install it. That way you can avoid spilling acid on your motorcycle. Carry out this process carefully in an open area so that the hydrogen gas that’s produced can escape easily. Once again, check your service manual on how to do this correctly for the motorcycle that you own.
      Attaching the Cables
      Now it’s time to install the battery. Start by placing the lead nuts into the terminal and place the battery in its compartment. Use a wire brush to clean the cables and reattach them to the terminals.
      Remember to attach the cables in the reverse order this time. Start with the positive cable and then move on to the negative cable. Ensure that you have the positive cable to the positive terminal and the negative cable to the negative terminal. Check multiple times to ensure you do this right because if you do not, you can end up with damaged electrical components.
      Testing the Installation
      Check the installation by turning your motorcycle on. If it comes to life immediately and the lights turn on, you’ve done everything correctly. If not, check the battery again to make sure the terminals have been secured properly and are connected to the right cables. You may have to replace a fuse or other electrical components if the battery still doesn’t work. Take your motorcycle down to the nearby repairs center to run diagnostics.
      Motorcycle Battery FAQ
      When should I replace my motorcycle battery?
      There isn’t a fixed period within which you should replace a motorcycle battery. It depends on how durable your battery is and how you’ve maintained it. You’ll know it’s time for a new battery when the engine doesn’t start easily or crank as well as before.
      How should I charge my battery?
      The alternator in your motorcycle charges your battery as you ride it. But that’s not always enough to get it back to full charge. Batteries also have a low rate of discharge even when they’re not being used. So it’s important you use a battery charger to replenish it.
      When you buy a motorcycle battery charger, make sure that it charges at a rate that is one-tenth of the battery’s capacity. So if your battery has a 10 Ah capacity, it should be charged at no higher than 1 ampere over 10 hours.
      Can I overcharge my motorcycle battery?
      Yes, batteries can be overcharged. It can happen both if you use a charger that has a higher rate of charge than required or if you overcharge it. This can lead to anything from the electrolyte boiling to the battery blowing up in extreme cases.
      The best way to avoid that is by using a trickle charger. These replenish the charge in your battery at a slow, consistent rate. You can see our list of best trickle chargers here.
      How can I maintain my motorcycle battery well?
      If you own a lead-acid battery, you have to make sure the electrolyte (usually water) levels are always optimal. Check your battery once a month to prevent issues that arise from low electrolyte levels.
      A few other factors can reduce battery life:
      Heat: Store your motorcycle in a cool space and avoid riding in very hot weather to keep your battery from draining too quickly
      Vibration: Install your motorcycle battery properly so that it doesn’t rattle in the compartment. Use shims if you need to ensure a snug fit.
      Cold: Extreme cold weather can be just as damaging as heat. The best way to keep battery electrolyte from freezing is by keeping it fully charged. A fully charged battery won’t freeze until temperatures drop to about -75° F.
      Final Thoughts
      A battery is the kind of component you want to install and not worry about too much for at least two years. You have to do two things correctly to make that happen.
      First, choose the right motorcycle battery based on the aforementioned information. Second, maintain your battery well by charging it regularly, topping up on electrolyte, and storing it at moderate temperatures. Do that, and you should have a battery that will power your motorcycle rides for many happy years.
      Once the battery is safely out of the way, the road is yours. You may need some other things before you set out though. If you’re looking for accessories for your motorcycle, you can check out our articles on locks, helmets, and glasses and find everything you need for your journey to begin. More

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      in Car Reviews

      Tested: 2004 Volvo V50 T5 AWD

      by

      From the September 2004 issue of Car and Driver.
      The Volvo V50 wagon pictured here replaces the V40 model that was launched in 1999 and is the wagon equivalent of the S40 sedan. Got that?

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      This latest iteration of Volvo’s smallest wagon is now available in three trim levels. The naturally aspirated 168-hp front-drive V50 2.4i starts at $26,345, the turbocharged front-drive T5 model ups the base price to $27,945, and the top-of-the-line T5 AWD you see here adds the four-wheel factor to the same turbo motor and starts at $30,795.

      The V50 keeps the same basic proportions as the V40. All the wagon’s dimensions are within a few inches of that earlier model’s, but by moving the wheels closer to the corners of the vehicle, Volvo designers have made incremental improvements in interior space, as well as improving the styling and handling.

      Volvo hopes to sell at least 6500 V50s a year in the U.S. That may not sound like a lot, but it’s more than four-and-a-half times the number of V40s that were sold in 2003. To put this number into perspective, during 2003 Audi sold slightly fewer than 3800 A4 Avants, and BMW sold just over 1800 3-series wagons.

      Maybe the folks at Volvo subscribe to C/D, because they’ve corrected many of our complaints about the V40. The V50 is now available with more power, the Haldex electronically controlled all-wheel drive available on other Volvos, and a previously unavailable manual transmission-the six-speed borrowed from the S60R.
      For our evaluation, Volvo supplied us with very nearly our favorite model, the turbocharged T5 with all-wheel drive. The only additional option we’d like is the six-speed manual transmission that won’t be available until early December.
      This $34,715 V50 T5 AWD came well loaded, but it did not have a sunroof ($1200) or navigation system ($2120). It was actually an early-production European version and had the optional “keyless drive” system that is becoming popular on many luxury brands. Although it was on the car tested here, keyless drive won’t be available until model-year ’06. Consequently, we didn’t include the estimated cost of that option-about $500-in our specifications panel.

      Highs: Quicker than A4 and 325i wagons, all-wheel drive, handsome looks, a manual is on the way.

      The 2.5-liter turbocharged engine makes 218 horsepower and 236 pound-feet of torque (48 and 59 more than the V40, respectively). Even with all this power, turbo lag is virtually nonexistent, noticeable only when lightly modulating the throttle from a standstill.
      Mash the throttle, however, and the V50 blasts to 60 in 6.9 seconds and passes through the quarter-mile in 15.2 seconds at 93 mph. Our Euro-spec model continued up to an unrestricted 141 mph, although Volvo suggests that it will limit the straight-line fun to 130 mph on U.S.-spec cars.
      Gaining nearly 500 pounds in the process of changing names, the V50’s acceleration times are still a huge improvement over the V40’s: 8.3 seconds to 60 and 16.4 seconds at 85 mph in the quarter-mile.
      The V50’s straight-line performance is also good enough to walk away from the Audi A4 Avant 3.0 Quattro and the BMW 325xi wagon but not quite enough to run with the new Subaru Impreza WRX-based Saab 9-2X Aero.
      The Volvo’s steering is nicely weighted and is combined with a properly chosen ratio that doesn’t demand constant correction on the highway and also doesn’t make the driver turn the wheel too far for cornering. Although the V50 sends 100 percent of its power to the front wheels until slip is detected, torque steer is surprisingly absent.
      We had a sneak peek some months back at the V50’s new chassis in Mazda 3 guise, so we weren’t surprised to find it well balanced. It never felt too harsh driving around Michigan’s frustratingly pocked roads, yet it didn’t just lean over and give up when lateral grip began to rise.
      Wearing optional 17-inch wheels and W-rated Continental SportContact 2 tires, the V50 pulled an impressive 0.85 g, again bettering the performance of the sporting wagons from Audi and BMW, and only 0.01 g shy of the Saab’s performance.
      Registering another significant increase in performance, the standard anti-lock brakes brought the V50 to rest in 163 feet from 70 mph, 28 fewer feet than its predecessor. It outperformed the aforementioned Audi (180 feet), BMW (174 feet), and Saab (171 feet).

      Lows: Gained 500 pounds, tight back seat.

      Toss this V50 into a four-wheel drift on your favorite off-ramp, and the stability control doesn’t activate while you’re at play. However, if you do something rash, like suddenly get off the throttle in mid-drift, the rear end will start to come around, at which point the stability control steps in and brings you back to reality. This is the kind of strategy we appreciate in stability control. It’s well executed in the new V50, well worth the $695 option price, and very fitting with Volvo’s safety image.
      The standard automatic, a five-speed Geartronic, worked well under most conditions, generally choosing the gear we expected and only getting confused a couple of times. For example, execute a wide-open throttle launch, let’s say, and then once you’re up to 40 mph, ease off to maintain that speed. Do that, and the Geartronic will execute two upshifts. After the first, oddly enough, there is a half-second delay during which you get engine braking; this upsets the car–and the driver.
      The transmission is outfitted with the typical manumatic control, which we often criticize for overriding the driver when the redline is approached or when slowing to a stop, among other things. However, this system actually lets the driver have significant control. Dying to heat up that transmission? How about a few third-gear launches? Or just cruise at the smooth electronic-throttle-controlled redline in the gear of your choice—it’s up to you.
      Inside and out, the V50 really looks terrific. A high priority for this wagon was style, and we think the company has succeeded. The exterior is unmistakably Volvo, benefiting from some familiar design cues. The wagon shape is sufficiently rounded off to make it pleasing to the eye as well as to the air passing over it, registering a 0.32 drag coefficient.

      The interior is also easy on the eyes. The dash is simple yet elegant, with two large, easy-to-read gauges. The trick, super-slim, free-floating center stack adds to the stylish look and is very functional. On it there are four large knobs. The two at the top are for the stereo, and the bottom two are for the climate control. Give the top-left knob a large clockwise twist for a sample of the excellent 11-speaker, 445-watt optional sound system that has enough adjustability and volume to satisfy music tastes of young and old alike. Our stereo did develop a bad habit of forgetting our radio presets once in a while, but we feel certain this is a preproduction glitch that will be sorted out before you see V50s at your local dealership by the time you read this.
      In the center of the stack is a four-way rocker pad that lets you scroll through various menus. It was easy to use, and we weren’t forced to resort to the owner’s manual. Soon we were tweaking deeply buried preferences, such as independent audio settings for the front and rear speakers and interior and exterior lighting strategies for approaching or departing the V50 with the “keyless drive” fob in our pocket.
      The V50 offers the usual desirable flexibility of a wagon that we appreciate. With the rear seats in people-carrying form, the cargo area is good for hauling 27 cubic feet of whatever burdens you; fold those seats down and the number rises to 63 cubes. For comparison, that’s about the same as the A4 Avant (31 and 64 cubic feet) and the 9-2X (28 and 62).
      The rear seating area provides midpack room in the segment. The seats are reasonably comfortable for average-size people. This is still a small wagon, however, and if you pack a couple of six-footers back there, they’ll begin whimpering, “Are we there yet?” in short order.
      On the other hand, the front seats are typical of a Volvo: extremely adjustable to accommodate nearly any size driver and comfortable on long grinds. Once you’ve found that perfect seating position, the steering wheel can adjust to match, employing its tilting and telescoping features to accommodate drivers who border on the freakishly tall (no one we know).

      The Verdict: A sporty small wagon now with enough power, features, and style to truly compete with the Germans.

      Volvo says the V50 is targeted at folks with a “large capacity for life.” With the large gain in performance, the handsome looks, and available all-wheel drive, along with a six-speed manual, we think Volvo has a good chance of locating at least 6500 of these people each year.
      COUNTERPOINT
      Miki, my 62-pound Vizsla, likes the front passenger seat, so my affection for small, sporty station wagons isn’t based on the need to haul a dog crate. By selecting the V50 wagon, you accept a 70-pound weight increase over the S40 sedan in exchange for roughly twice the carrying capacity, without compromising the sedan’s eager performance, quick reflexes, or stylish interior. In fact, from the outside, the wagon shows off Volvo’s flowing lines better than the sedan does. With its sense of great solidity and upmarket demeanor, this V50 should be a strong entry in the burgeoning sporty small-wagon class and is worthy of consideration by even the most avid wagon haters. —Csaba Csere
      Based on the charisma-less Mitsubishi Carisma, Volvo’s V40 wagon never felt like a true Volvo. Aside from the throne-like seats, there just wasn’t much that was authentic. I’m happy to report that the V50, based on second-generation Ford Focus architecture, has all the latest Volvo traits—simple and futuristic interior design, a thick-waisted and modern exterior, seats that you wish you had in your office, and a punchy five-cylinder turbo. To this formula Volvo adds a perfectly tuned chassis that conceals road blemishes while providing predictable and spirited handling. The result is the most surprising Swedish export since the sex change. —Tony Quiroga
      As a 30-year-old single guy, I usually don’t fantasize about driving wagons. When I play the “what car would I buy if I had to buy one” game, I conjure up images of S2000s and RX-8s—sporty, quick, and fun cars that are relatively affordable. After driving the V50, I began to fantasize about my first Swede since Vendela. Was something wrong with me? The answer was “no.” The V50, too, is sporty, quick, and fun; yet it’s also stylishly handsome and delivers loads of cargo space for fishing rods, ice chests, whatever. Build an all-wheel-drive, manual-tranny T5, Volvo, and the V50 could top Vendela. Oh, wait, Vendela is always on top. —Ron Kiino

      Specifications

      SPECIFICATIONS
      2004 Volvo V50 T5 AWD
      VEHICLE TYPE front-engine, 4-wheel-drive, 5-passenger, 5-door wagon
      PRICE AS TESTED $34,715
      ENGINE TYPE turbocharged and intercooled inline-5, aluminum block and headDisplacement 154 in3, 2521 cm3Power (SAE net) 218 bhp @ 5000 rpmTorque (SAE net) 236 lb-ft @ 1500 rpm
      TRANSMISSION 5-speed automatic with manumatic shifting
      DIMENSIONSWheelbase: 103.9 inLength: 177.7 inWidth: 69.7 inHeight: 57.2 inCurb weight: 3552 lb
      C/D TEST RESULTSZero to 60 mph: 6.9 secZero to 100 mph: 18.5 secStreet start, 5-60 mph: 7.6 secStanding ¼-mile: 15.2 sec @ 93 mphTop speed (drag limited): 141 mphBraking, 70-0 mph @ impending lockup: 163 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.85 g
      C/D FUEL ECONOMYObserved: 20 mpg
      EPA FUEL ECONOMYCity/highway: 24/31 mpg

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      in Car Reviews

      2002 Small Off-Road SUV Comparo

      by

      From the January 2002 issue of Car and Driver.
      Some people are just never meant to be rich. Charlie Steen was probably one of them. The Texan’s troubles began almost at the moment the slug of gray rock from his Mi Vida mine pegged the Geiger counter at Buddy Cowger’s gas station in Cisco, Utah.
      It was July 18, 1952, a time when Americans believed they would soon be winging to work in uranium-powered saucers and baking meatloaf by the glow of the same fission keeping our enemies at bay. Weary of overpaying for South African uranium, the U.S. Atomic Energy Commission was eager to find a domestic supply. Any miner who tapped a vein on the Colorado Plateau got $10,000 cash, plus $8 for every pound of high-grade ore in it. To sweeten the deal, government geologists combed the plateau and pointed prospectors toward promising sites. If a vein were discovered, the AEC would bulldoze a road through on the taxpayers’ nickel. The AEC’s dangled carrot and Steen’s discovery of the huge Mi Vida lode sparked the biggest mineral rush of the past century. Doctors, accountants, school teachers, and assorted opportunists dropped everything to head for Utah wielding nothing more than an AEC pamphlet on uranium prospecting and a store-bought Geiger counter.

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      By 1969, the nation’s uranium stocks were overflowing, but atomic saucers were in short supply. Steen’s fortune had disappeared into bad investments, lawsuits, and tax-fraud indictments, thousands of investors had been bilked with dubious claims, miners were dying of cancer, and the formerly pristine sandstone deserts of Utah were blotched with toxic mine tailings and scribbled with more than 900 miles of crude roads. The White Rim Road, a 100-mile billy-goat path of sand and slickrock built to service uranium dog holes on the 3000-foot-high Island in the Sky mesa about 350 miles west of Denver, is perhaps the best thing to come out of it all. It traces the bleached cliffs of the arrowhead-shaped mesa, overlooking the Colorado and Green rivers as they meander southward in vast gorges every bit as grand as the Grand Canyon. The two rivers converge at the pointy bottom of the mesa and head off for the craggy inlets of Lake Powell.
      Jeepers, mountain bikers, and other worshippers of Kokopelli, the flute-tooting Hopi glyph that is the de facto god of desert stuff, have gravitated to the White Rim and the nearby town of Moab in the years since Pres. Lyndon Johnson dedicated Canyonlands National Park on September 12, 1964. Bring just $30 and the Park Service will sell you a permit to ride the White Rim, but come in a “high-clearance four-wheel-drive,” or you’ll be viewing Canyonland’s rocky chasms, skyscraping buttes, and wispy spires shoulder to shoulder with herds of slow-moving retirees at the park’s few paved overlooks. It so happens that the two most respected names in off-roading, Jeep and Land Rover, are launching new small four-wheel-drivers this year. That alone is not unique. What is: Jeep and Land Rover actually build the little utes for forays into the wild toolies, and going places you can’t get to in a BMW M5 is the best reason to buy a sport-utility, in our opinion.
      Optioned correctly, the base Jeep Liberty Limited Edition and Land Rover Freelander price out to a wash, although our fully loaded (with no options) $32,220 Freelander HSE cost more than our fully loaded Liberty Limited Edition by $3435. Our plan was to compare the Liberty with the more popularly configured but not available for testing Freelander SE, which has a base price of $28,400 and lacks only the HSE’s power sunroof, the fancier Alpaca Beige leather, a Harman/Kardon stereo with six-CD changer and built-in navigation system, and 17-inch wheels.
      All Freelanders, including the cloth-upholstered $25,600 Freelander S and the base leather-upholstered SE, have the same 174-hp, 2.5-liter V-6 mated to a five-speed automatic and viscous-coupled single-speed four-wheel-drive system. Suspension of the unitized body is by sturdy long-travel struts, and a thick aluminum skid plate keeps the engine safe from accidental mineral deposits.
      The Jeep Liberty has a beefy cast-iron suspension built for boulder crawling. Our $28,785 Limited Edition was porked up with the $2945 Customer Preferred package, including leather seats, power everything, premium stereo, and the Selec-Trac two-speed four-wheel-drive system with an “auto” setting and low-range gear. Another $700 went for the sunroof, $600 for ABS, $520 for the Off-Road Group (including a limited-slip rear diff, larger tires, various skid plates, tow hooks, and cooling upgrades), $415 for a trunk-mounted CD changer, $390 for supplemental side airbags, $250 for heated seats, $245 for a towing package, and $40 for an engine-block heater. Stripped of nonessential frills (the $2445 Sport Value Group with air conditioning we feel is essential), our Limited’s White Rim badge could be earned with a Liberty Sport for as little as $23,650. Oh, and don’t forget the 30 bucks for the permit.

      Second Place: Jeep Liberty Limited Edition
      Steen discovered the Mi Vida in an Army-surplus Jeep and would likely find little to fault in the 21st-century model we wheeled onto the plateau.
      The front-end styling is straight from the Army manual, and with its cast-iron, independent-front control arms, rigid rear axle, stiff coil springs, and two-speed transfer case, the Liberty is built with such a deep reserve of off-road capability that it’s hard to imagine the typical owner ever tapping it. We didn’t, and we drove up and down the Murphy Hogback, a 1.3-mile cattle trail on the White Rim first cut into the cliffs during World War I by the Murphy brothers.

      Highs: Solid-as-granite chassis, nifty cockpit detail, heritage styling.

      The Jeep charged along as if it were the reigning stag in the neighborhood. Body flexing was undetectable even as the suspension twisted and strained, the Matterhorn approach and departure angles (38.0 and 32.3 degrees, respectively) kept the ends aloft, and the big Goodyears ripped into the trail like bear claws.
      Just 7.8 inches separates the Liberty’s lowest point from the rock, but the taut suspension leverages the truck’s ground clearance better than that of more softly sprung utes, including the Freelander. The transfer case’s 2.72:1 low gear was much appreciated on the long downhill, although the hand-brake-style shifter refused to pass smoothly through the dogleg between neutral and low.
      The Liberty’s seats were also voted off the Island. The front-bottom cushions were found too short and lacking in thigh support, the rears were relatively cramped and inhospitable. “My fanny’s aching after only a half-hour,” complained one adventurer.

      Lows: 623 more pounds that don’t pull their own weight, unfriendly seats, a head-tossing ride on any surface.

      That and the squeeze on footroom due to the transmission tunnel were the biggest gripes about an interior that looks more appropriate to a sports car. Even under the steadily thickening film of red dust, the Limited’s electroplated plastic shimmered elegantly and the trim materials were praised as being of high quality and pleasing to the touch. The huge elliptical door handles were one detail winning particular praise.
      The Liberty’s off-road ability comes at the price of comfort, however. Every rock outcropping, slickrock shelf, and vee-shaped wash in the trail pummeled the truck like a small Semtex charge. On the highway the Jeep bounced and shuddered noticeably more than the Freelander with the kind of stiff-legged gambol one equates with an empty pickup.
      All the ferrous metal, including the cast-iron engine block, contributes mass that impedes the 4304-pound Liberty’s performance. From 70 mph, the Liberty rolled 209 feet under full braking, 20 more than the Freelander. And with the big 3.7-liter SOHC 12-valve V-6 burning maximum gas, this Liberty needed 10.0 seconds to register 60 mph, just 0.2 second better than the 174-hp–and 623 pounds lighter–Freelander. Our first test of a Liberty Limited ( C/D, August 2001) saw 60 mph flash by in 8.8 seconds, and the discrepancy is explainable only with a guess, such as this later-production example perhaps suffered from a tighter engine.

      The Verdict: Fine for folks who commute over the Rubicon, but too rugged for everyone else.

      Passing with the Jeep requires forward thinking as the 45RFE four-speed auto pauses for deep breaths before downshifting. The power-to-weight ratio does favor the Liberty over the Freelander, but we’re still disappointed that DaimlerChrysler let the new Jeep’s weight balloon up. The extra pounds don’t pay a dividend anywhere except in off-road athleticism most drivers will never use. Perhaps the Liberty’s designers believed more owners would be like Steen and make their own roads.
      2002 Jeep Liberty Limited Edition210-hp V-6, 4-speed automatic, 4304 lbBase/as-tested price: $23,305/$28,785C/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 10.0 sec1/4 mile: 17.5 @ 81 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 209 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.70 gC/D observed fuel economy: 16 mpg

      First Place: Land Rover Freelander HSE
      “Looks kinda low,” opined Canyonlands ranger Alyssa Van Schmus as she peered at the Land Rover with professional skepticism. Behind her was the decidedly not-low Dodge Ram four-by-four the government gives her for rescuing tourists and towing out underachieving rental cars.
      We had just hobbled down a rock-strewn spur of the White Rim called the Lathrop Trail to flush the granules from between our toes in the latte-colored Colorado River. Van Schmus and helper Roy Vaughan were there, hacking back the tamarisk in 90-degree heat. It’s a leafy shrub from Asia that arrived with settlers at the turn of the past century. Today it lines every inch of the river like overgrown slivers of Vietnamese jungle.

      Highs: The better ride over pavement and dirt, better seats, more cachet at the club.

      Yes, the Freelander is a Lotus Esprit compared with the Discovery and other Land Rovers. The nose, the lowest part at 7.2 inches, is actually 0.1 inch closer to the planet than a Subaru Outback’s. The 225/55HR-17 Pirelli Scorpions (regular-production models will wear Michelins) leave precious little sidewall for the fancy aluminum rims to hide behind, and the muffler only half-tucked under the rear bumper (see below) seems particularly vulnerable.
      But by the time the 10-megawatt moon was rising over our first campsite, it was clear which vehicle the crew preferred to plant their buns in. Obstacles that tossed heads in the Liberty resulted in little more than an audible psst! from the Freelander’s dampers. The pampering ride allowed White Rim pilots to regularly cruise at higher speeds, leaving the Jeep in a roostertail of red dust.

      Lows: Cream-puff engine, syrup steering interior trim feels a little cheap.

      The Freelander also needs more snap-to from under the hood. Midland Powertrain, a subsidiary of the newly independent MG-Rover group, builds the aluminum 2.5-liter DOHC 24-valve V-6 to make its 174 horsepower and 177 pound-feet of torque as smooth as Cotswold cream. However, throttle response is lazy, and on the highway, the engine struggles to maintain speed going up hills. Downshifts are reluctant unless the five-speed auto is in its sport setting or the driver personally selects a lower gear using the handy manumatic feature. At least there’s the thriftier fuel economy: 19 mpg versus the Liberty’s 16 mpg on our trip.
      “Economy” also applies to the dash materials, which some felt were a bit cheap (or “durable,” depending on which logbook page is being consulted), and the omission of armrests is outrageous. Otherwise, the Freelander’s more complicated cockpit mostly worked for us. On paper, the Rover has a much smaller cargo capacity than does the Jeep, but the front seats suspend the body with better technique and the back bench is roomier. The cabin is more conveniently accessed across the lower side sill and through the one-piece rear door, and the rubber mats seem more suited to the off-road lifestyle. Special accolades go to the thick-rimmed steering wheel around which the palms snug comfortably, and to the occasional faint oil odor detected through the air vents without which no British vehicle would be complete.

      The Verdict: This little dust bunny finally has our tails wagging over a Land Rover product.

      If the canyons of Utah are calling, the Freelander SE is a more prudent pack mule than the pricier HSE with its incomprehensible navigation system. Steen probably would have thought so, too, but then, look what happened to him.
      2002 Land Rover Freelander HSE174-hp V-6, 5-speed automatic, 3681 lbBase/as-tested price: $32,220/$32,220C/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 10.2 sec1/4 mile: 17.8 @ 79 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 189 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.71 gC/D observed fuel economy: 19 mpg
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