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      2013 Subaru BRZ First Drive

      by

      Some things just don’t make sense. Why is the food at Outback Steakhouse mostly Cajun style? Why can’t Jennifer Aniston find true love? And why would Subaru and Toyota, two companies whose fortunes are built on mainstream sedan sales, collaborate on a rear-drive sports car?

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      The latter question is a bit easier to answer from the Subaru BRZ perspective. For one, Subaru has a currently breathing reputation for building sporty cars: They may sell in limited volumes, but the WRX and STI are nevertheless Subarus. And Subaru says that the engine in its BRZ, a 2.0-liter flat-four making its first public appearance in this car, will form the basis of its next turbo motor. For its part, Toyota says that its version of the car—to be sold as the Toyota 86 in Japan, as the GT 86 in at least the U.K., and as the Scion FR-S here—makes sense as a first thrust in its plan to again build sporty, fun-to-drive vehicles. Still, this isn’t a car that most people saw coming from either manufacturer.
      Cheese Fries, Please!
      Then again, regardless of the boomerangs mounted on the walls and the “Chaze Frois, Plaze!” coasters, Outback Steakhouse’s Alice Springs chicken is delicious—and devastatingly unhealthy, but that’s beside the point. The BRZ is likewise delectable; our only gripe about the way it drives is a chassis that leads to understeer at the limit. That, however, is much less likely to give you a heart attack than a jumbo honey-mustard-marinated chicken bosom hidden under a pile of bacon and smothered in melted cheese. Indeed, right up until the nose starts to chatter off line, Subaru’s new coupe is gifted with exceptional balance and clairvoyant reflexes.

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      The understeer isn’t a deal breaker; with perfectly timed and moderated inputs (or with huge, pimp-slap jerks on the wheel and heavy stomps on the go pedal), it is possible to avoid it all together and turn it into delicious oversteer. When the rear end goes, even in the wet, the BRZ slides slowly and progressively. It’s so easy to catch that you might find yourself fishing in your pocket for spare change with one hand while the other meters yaw around an off-ramp. (Subaru says that Toyota’s suspension tune will vary slightly, a tad softer in the front and stiffer out back.) The brake pedal feels a little less wired than the rest of the car, but the binders wind the speedo back toward 0 in a hurry.
      Conducting the chassis is steering that is more immediate than anything this side of the Lotus factory. Its heft is perfect for resisting unintentional inputs at the limit. Feedback falls short of perfection, but only slightly; blame the electric steering if you must. The electric motor assisting the BRZ’s rack is mounted high up on the firewall, contributing to a slightly higher center of gravity but simultaneously shifting the front/rear weight balance a touch rearward.

      View Photos

      Weight Watchers
      In developing the BRZ, Subaru took an almost maniacal approach to weight and its management, keeping it low and evenly distributed between the car’s axles. The company claims that 54 percent of this car’s mass rides on the front wheels and 46 over the rear, and says that its center of gravity is right around 18 inches high. That latter figure rivals or beats the measurements for the Porsche Cayman and Mazda RX-8, among others.
      Helping keep the mass snug against Mother Earth is the FA flat-four. Compared to the FB four found in other Subies, the FA’s intake is 2.6 inches lower and the oil pan clings closer to the crankcase, allowing it to be mounted with its crankshaft centerline 2.4 inches lower. Amazingly, the engine is mounted 9.4 inches farther back in the chassis than an Impreza’s four. A Subaru spokesman says the two engines share “maybe a few screws,” but are otherwise completely separate pieces. We’re told the weight difference between the two is negligibly in favor of the A. Placing the engine so far rearward of course helps balance the car, but it also precludes Subaru from fitting an all-wheel-drive system. The company says that it has no room for a turbocharger either, but after peering under the hood, we disagree. Besides, Subaru desperately needs something to tie this car to the rest of its lineup, and a turbocharged STI model would be the perfect solution. Although the BRZ doesn’t need more power, it certainly could handle more. We’re guessing that a turbo will be part of whatever mid-cycle updates this car sees in two or three years.

      Despite a displacement difference of just 3 cc, the naturally aspirated FA and FB fours have dramatically different outputs. The B’s 148 hp and 145 lb-ft of torque (as installed in the Impreza) lag 52 and 6 behind the A’s 200 and 151—Subaru’s stated output—while the A’s 7400-rpm redline is 800 higher. Thank Toyota’s fuel-injection setup, which squirts both via intake ports and directly into the cylinder—the system is Big T’s lone contribution to the engine—and allows a crushing compression ratio of 12.5:1. “Crushing” is not a descriptor we’d employ for the acceleration, although we estimate a 0-to-60-mph time of around six seconds flat with the six-speed manual; add a couple of tenths with the six-speed auto. Top speed is said to be 143 mph. A resonator pipes sound into the cabin, and above 5000 rpm, there’s enough noise inside the car that you’ll need to scream to talk. Not that you’ll be having much conversation. That said, we wouldn’t call the quality of the sound unmistakable; it could be taken for a number of undesirable things. Having heard what aftermarket exhaust companies do for other Subaru flat-fours, though, we’re confident that they can coax a better voice out of this 7400-rpm screamer.
      In spite of its higher output, the FA should still manage 30 mpg on the highway, according to Subaru. Underbody paneling helps keep a clean aerodynamic profile, although the company still hasn’t decided if the treatment will be standard on all U.S. cars or only on higher trim levels.

      View Photos

      Even the Weenies are Treated Well
      As mentioned, two six-speeds are available, a manual and an automatic. Following our drive of the BRZ in Japan, the manual had us seeking a temple at which we might make an offering of thanks. The clutch pedal is a touch light—and a touch light on feel—but snaps to attention right off the floor and engages smoothly, and the stubby shifter snicks between gates with ease. Heretics who buy their sports cars with automatics will at least get a good unit. There are two modes in the Subaru: Drive and Sport. Wheel-mounted paddles are standard; in D, the transmission allows them to make gearchange suggestions but still upshifts at redline and downshifts when the driver floors the accelerator. In Sport mode, however, paddle commands are gospel—the way God’s lazy, automatic-driving half-brother intended.
      While most of the engineering and chassis work is Subaru’s doing, the styling fell to Toyota. It apparently drew a basic coupe shape and—well, it must have seen it created something less than sultry but stuck with it anyway. It’s good enough. The view from abaft is actually fairly exciting, with the slope of the greenhouse hesitating just slightly to form a decklid before tumbling into the rear fascia. Only the front fascia, badges, and maybe wheels separate the BRZ from its Toyota—and Scion—sibling. The suggestion of flares on the front fenders merely alludes to the muscular (some might say exaggerated) styling of the various concept cars, but the U-shaped view from the driver’s seat over the scooped-out hood is at least unique. Visibility in all directions is much better than most sports cars.

      View Photos

      Interior space, on the other hand, is just about par. It’s fine up front, and average/shortish adults might even be happy in the back for shorter trips. Subie touts this as the shortest rear-drive 2+2 on the market. So it is. It also says that the car can accommodate a forward-facing child seat in the back. A rear-facing seat, on the other hand, would probably only fit if the parent riding shotgun rides shotgun in a car following behind. The trunk will hold just seven cubic feet of stuff, although both halves of the rear seatback fold for larger loads. According to Subaru, the space was designed from the beginning to hold a set of racing tires and a toolbox in this configuration, although that claim coincided with a PowerPoint slide entitled “Unexpected Utility”; we suspect that’s probably the real story behind the tire-hauling ability. Or maybe that’s why the tires are just 215 millimeters wide, as fitting a set in the car requires a two-tire stack.
      The BRZ goes on sale in spring of 2012 as an early ’13 model, at a base price we’re now told will be around $25,000. Asked to make sense of the BRZ, a Subaru representative says, “It makes sense if you sell enough of them.” In the U.S., Subaru thinks that 5000­ to 7000 per year would be enough. Ultimately, though, a car this good doesn’t need to make sense: Its brilliance is all the explanation we need.

      Specifications

      SPECIFICATIONS
      2013 Subaru BRZ
      VEHICLE TYPE front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2+2-passenger, 2-door coupe
      ESTIMATED BASE PRICE $25,000
      ENGINE TYPE DOHC 16-valve flat-4, aluminum block and heads, port and direct fuel injectionDisplacement122 in3, 1998 cm3Power 200 hp @ 7000 rpmTorque 151 lb-ft @ 6400 rpm
      TRANSMISSIONS 6-speed manual, 6-speed automatic with manual shifting mode
      DIMENSIONSWheelbase: 101.2 inLength: 166.9 inWidth: 69.9 inHeight: 51.2 inCurb weight: 2800-2900 lb
      PERFORMANCE (C/D EST) Zero to 60 mph: 6.0-6.2 secZero to 100 mph: 15.5-15.7 secStanding ¼-mile: 14.7-14.9 secTop speed: 143 mph
      PROJECTED FUEL ECONOMY (C/D EST)EPA city/highway driving: 19/27 mpg

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      The 10 Best RV Air Conditioners to Buy 2020

      by

      Traveling in an RV is a statement all on its own. It’s a way to tell yourself and others that it’s not just about the destination but about the journey. But you won’t enjoy the journey very much if you’re hot and sweaty through most of it. That’s why it’s so important to have a dependable air conditioner installed in your recreational vehicle.
      We’ve put together this guide to cover everything that you need to know about air conditioning for your RV. Before getting to our recommendations of the best products, let’s find out what you need to know before making that decision for yourself.

      What You Need to Know Before Buying an RV Air Conditioner
      There are a few pieces of information that you need to keep in mind when buying a new RV air conditioner.
      Types of RV Air Conditioners
      There are three main types of RV air conditioners to choose from: rooftop, window and portable.
      Rooftop RV Air Conditioners
      The most commonly used RV air conditioners are rooftop-mounted ones. They are the most powerful type of ACs on average. Another benefit they offer is that they sit on the roof, which means that you save space within your RV.
      There are two ways in which rooftop RV air conditioners are powered. Some may have a control panel that’s also mounted on the ceiling. Others will have a wire that connects the AC to the thermostat in your vehicle.
      The Dometic Brisk II is a great rooftop RV air conditioner.
      There are two types of rooftop RV air conditioners. Non-ducted RV ACs blow air out of their own body. Ducted rooftop ACs, as you’ve probably guessed by now, are connected to the air ducts in your RV. This ensures an even distribution of air throughout the vehicle. The Dometic Penguin II is a great ducted RV air conditioner.
      Window RV Air Conditioners
      Just like rooftop RV air conditioners, window ACs conserve space within your RV. They will, however, block the view you have from one of your windows because that’s where they sit and pull warm air out of your recreational vehicle.
      The challenge with finding a good window RV air conditioner is getting one that’s the right size. Different RVs have windows that are of different sizes. You will have to find an AC that matches the dimensions of your window to make it work.
      Another drawback of using this type of RV air conditioner is that they block your window. So make sure that you have other ways to get natural light into your RV before buying one.
      The Home Labs HME020003N is a product to consider if you’re looking for a window-mounted RV air conditioner.
      Portable RV Air Conditioners
      Let’s say you don’t want to block light coming through your window and don’t want to lug a big AC up onto your RV’s roof. You don’t have to consign yourself to warm, sweaty days in your RV. You can, instead, use a portable air conditioner to cool your vehicle.
      Portable RV air conditioners are great because the installation process is, well, barely a process at all — especially compared to the other kinds of RV ACs. An AC like the SereneLife SLACHT108 can be brought into your RV and connected to the power for quick cooling.
      Portable RV air conditioners are usually not as powerful as their roof- and window-mounted counterparts. They also take up space on the floor, which is an important factor to take into consideration.
      RV Air Conditioner Size and Weight
      Another factor to take into account is the size and weight of the air conditioner you’re purchasing. A low-profile RV air conditioner like the Dometic Penguin II is designed to be aerodynamic and creates less drag as a result.
      The weights of RV air conditioners run the gamut. Rooftop ACs, as mentioned earlier, tend to be on the heavier side. There are, however, lighter RV ACs out there. The Frigidaire White Energy Star and Black + Decker BPACT10WT are two great lightweight RV air conditioners.
      How many BTUs Do you Need?
      The most important metric that determines your choice will be what’s expressed as British Thermal Units, or BTU for short. This is a measure of how well an AC can cool a particular space. Most RVs measure between 200 and 300 ft, so even the smallest option can adequately cool your average RV.
      Choosing the capacity of your RV air conditioner is not an exact science. If you own a supersized RV, you will want an air conditioner that has more than 13,500 BTU, like the Dometic Brisk II or Airxcel Mach 15. These can easily cool RVs up to 1,000 square feet in size.
      If you own a smaller RV, your BTU requirements are also smaller. RVs up to 500 square feet in size can use air conditioners with a capacity of between 8,000 and 12,000 BTU. The Black + Decker BPACT10WT is an air conditioner that falls in that range.
      Those who own standard-sized RVs, up to 300 square feet in size, can make do with an air conditioner that’s between 5,000 and 7,000 BTU. The Frigidaire White Energy Star is a great 5,000 BTU RV air conditioner.
      With these key concepts in mind, let’s get into our list of great RV air conditioners that can keep you cool as you pile the summer road.

      Top 10 Best RV Air Conditioners 2020
      1. Best Overall RV Air Conditioner: Dometic Brisk

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      Why we like it: The Dometic Brisk II is a powerful RV air conditioner that can be used for both heating and cooling.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      BTU: 15,000 BTU
      Installation type: Rooftop (ducted/non-ducted)
      Weight: 74 pounds
      Dimensions: 29.18 x 27.23 x 12.7 inches
      The Dometic Brisk II covers almost every base there is when it comes to RV air conditioners.
      The first question that springs to mind about a new air conditioner unit is whether it is easy to install. The Dometic Brisk II weighs 74 pounds, so you may need a step ladder and a helping hand to get it onto your RV. But once you’ve done that, it is just a 30-minute job to get it up and running.
      Once the unit is atop the RV, start by bolting down the AC by lining it up with the holes on the vehicle. You can then attach the wires to get the unit powered and running. It’s really that simple.
      With less powerful AC units, it can be hard to get the temperature in your vehicle under 80 degrees if it’s 95+ degrees outside. This RV air conditioner, however, can maintain temperatures in the low 70s even on very hot days.
      Other times of the year, you may need an AC that provides heating. The Dometic Brisk II comes with a heat pump, so you can also use it to heat your RV, making it very versatile.
      The Dometic Brisk II does, however, have a few minor shortcomings. Because of its impressive output, the Dometic Brisk II can be a little loud at times. Fencing off the air conditioner can help dampen some of the noise if it gets too annoying.
      Although a great overall RV air conditioner, the Dometic Brisk II is not the most low-profile rooftop AC. If that’s what you’re looking for, then the Dometic Penguin II is a more appropriate product.

      Pros
      Easy to install
      Comes with a heat pump
      Maintains cool temperatures easily

      Cons
      Can be loud
      High-profile

      2. Best Budget RV Air Conditioner: Frigidaire White Energy Star

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      Why we like it: The Frigidaire White Energy Star is low on energy requirements and is perfect for single-room cooling.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance
      BTU: 5,000 BTU
      Installation type: Window
      Weight: 49.2 pounds
      Dimensions: 17.75 x 17 x 14.75 inches
      Sometimes, all you need is an air conditioner that can cool one room of your RV well – or you just have a small RV. If that’s what you’re looking for, then the Frigidaire White Energy Star is your best bet. Don’t let this product’s seemingly low 5,000 BTU rating fool you. It’s meant to be used for rooms up to 150 square feet in size. This makes it perfect for single rooms in your RV.
      An added benefit of the Frigidaire White Energy Star’s modest aspirations is its energy efficiency. The product’s energy efficiency ratio (the ratio between cooling capacity in BTU to its input wattage) is 11.1. An EER value of 12 is considered very good for AC units, so this Frigidaire unit does well on that scale.
      The Frigidaire White Energy Star is a window-mounted air conditioner. It comes with a window mounting kit so that you can go about installing it straight away.
      This AC is perfect for RV owners looking to cool rooms of their vehicle on a budget. It consumes a low amount of energy and is relatively quiet as a result. This is the kind of product you’ll love if you own a smaller RV.
      Portable ACs are also a great way to cool small rooms. The Black + Decker BPACT10WT is the most portable RV air conditioner on the market.

      Pros
      Affordable
      Low energy requirements
      Relatively quiet
      Comes with window-mounting kit

      Cons
      Can be used to cool only one room

      3. Best Premium RV Air Conditioner: Airxcel Mach 15

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      Why we like it: This RV air conditioner boasts impressive performance and the ability to sustain that performance in high temperatures over long periods.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance
      BTU: 15,000 BTU
      Installation type: Rooftop (ducted/non-ducted)
      Weight: 90 pounds
      Dimensions: 42.00 x 28.00 x 16.00 inches
      The real test of an RV air conditioner is whether it can keep you cool through searing temperatures outside. Let’s say you’re dealing with 110-degree dry heat in Arizona, for example. The Airxcel Mach 15 is the kind of air conditioner that can keep your RV cool in those conditions without signs of being overworked. It can take inside temperatures from 90 degrees to 50 degrees in as little as 10 minutes.
      Getting this RV air conditioner up and running is an easy process. The unit is designed for the 14×14 AC vent, which is standard, and the amount of wiring work required to kick it into action is minimal. It’s the kind of job most RV owners can do on their own. You will, however, need help getting the unit up onto your RV because of its weight.
      Under the hood, the Airxcel Mach 15 uses a combination of gas-flux joints and copper tubing. These combine with the condenser coils to create a system that can cool an RV for long hours in warm conditions. Since it is capable of high cooling output, this AC works best in a ducted setup. However, it can also be used as a non-ducted AC by using a ceiling assembly kit.

      Pros
      Powerful cooling capabilities
      Easy install
      Sustained performance

      Cons
      Heavy, you will need help hoisting it onto your RV
      Pricey

      4. Most Portable RV Air Conditioner: Black + Decker BPACT10WT

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      Why we like it: The Black + Decker BPACT10WT is an affordable portable RV air conditioner with multiple modes of use.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      BTU: 10,000 BTU
      Installation type: Portable
      Weight: 52.9 pounds
      Dimensions: 16.5 x 11.5 x 26 inches
      Portable air conditioners offer benefits that you can’t get with an AC that’s mounted in your window or roof. Firstly, they consume less energy than larger mounted units. They can also be moved around easily, which is something you can’t do with a mounted unit. The Black + Decker BPACT10WT offers these benefits in a product that performs supremely well.
      This portable RV air conditioner comes in a compact body that can generate 10,000 BTU. This means that it is best suited for areas 250 square feet or under, which translates to RVs that are 31 feet in size. If you own an RV that falls within that size, you can’t do better than the Black + Decker BPACT10WT. If you need a portable RV air conditioner that is slightly more feature-rich and don’t mind some additional weight, the SereneLife SLACHT108 is a good choice.
      This RV air conditioner offers three different modes that you can run it on. The first is the standard cool setting, for when you want to use it as an AC. On cooler days, you can switch to the fan setting just to keep the air flowing. It also offers a third dehumidifier mode. You can use this AC’s dehumidifying feature without having to deal with filling and emptying water containers. A hose adapter that comes with the product releases excess water out the window.

      Pros
      Easily portable
      Compact body
      Multimode use

      Cons
      Not fit for areas larger than 250 square feet

      5. SereneLife SLACHT108

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      Why we like it: The SereneLife SLACHT108 is one of the most feature-rich portable RV air conditioners on the market.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      BTU: 10,000 BTU
      Installation type: Portable
      Weight: 62.6 pounds
      Dimensions: 17. 4 x 13. 4 x 32. 1 inches
      RV owners usually equate portable air conditioners with compromising on certain kinds of features. And that’s true to some extent; you can’t expect the same cooling capacity as other kinds. However, as the SereneLife SLACHT108 shows, you can have your cake and eat it too with the right portable RV air conditioner.
      Installing this AC is a quick process. Everything you need to get that done comes out of the box. This unit doesn’t take too much space, which is a boon for anyone who owns an RV.
      Once you have it set up, there are a lot of features you can play around with. The SereneLife SLACHT108 has four operating modes: cooling, heating, dehumidifying, and a fan mode. You can use the remote control to set the mode as well as play around with the fan speed, temperature, and other things.
      A major drawback with the SereneLife SLACHT108 is that it can be loud: very loud. This article shows you a few ways you can quiet down a loud RV air conditioner.

      Pros
      Multi-mode operation
      Can be controlled remotely
      Easy to install

      Cons
      Can be loud

      6. Airxcel Mach 3

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      Why we like it: The Airxcel Mach 3 is easy to install and can cool an entire RV all on its own.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      BTU: 13,500 BTU
      Installation type: Rooftop
      Weight: 79.5 pounds
      Dimensions: 41 x 28 x 16 inches
      Let’s say it’s a hot day out there. The mercury touches 90 degrees, which means that it’s definitely time to get your RV air conditioner up and running. The Airxcel Mach 3 is the kind of AC that can have the temperature inside your RV at about 70 degrees within 25 minutes. That’s the kind of cooling power you’re grateful for when it’s a hot day in the RV.
      The hardest part about installing this RV air conditioner is getting it up on top of your RV. If you can get that done, you’re faced with a simple installation process. The 1-inch rubber seals that come with the unit have arrows that show you exactly how far to tighten them. After securing the AC to the RV, it’s very easy to plug in and power it up. The whole process takes only about an hour.
      The Airxcel Mach 3 works dependably for long periods of time. It is built well and you can expect to get multiple years of use from it. You may have a difficult time telling the difference between the different fan modes of the AC. But it works like a charm when you switch to the cooling mode.

      Pros
      Easy to install
      Quick cooling
      Durable

      Cons
      Different levels in the fan mode may not always feel very different

      7. Best Low-Profile Rooftop RV Air Conditioner: Dometic Penguin II

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      Why we like it: The Dometic Penguin II has a sleek design that reduces wind drag and minimizes fuel consumption.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      BTU: 13,500 BTU
      Installation type: Rooftop (ducted/non-ducted)
      Weight: 118 pounds
      Dimensions: 42 x 30 x 12 inches
      Most high-capacity RV air conditioners can be conspicuous and resource-intensive. And that’s why low-profile rooftop ACs like the Dometic Penguin II stand out. This is an AC that’s designed to maintain a low profile, which has several benefits.
      The first big benefit of a low-profile rooftop air conditioner is that it reduces wind drag. The Dometic Penguin II sits low on your RV roof so that the entire vehicle is more aerodynamic. This is helpful for when you want to zip around in your RV and reduces fuel consumption over the long run.
      The Dometic Penguin II does all of that without falling short in the performance department. It cranks out 13,500 BTU, which is sufficient capacity for RVs sized about 675 square feet – enough for almost all RVs on the market.
      The one drawback with the Dometic Penguin II is that it doesn’t always maintain a low profile when it comes to the amount of noise it produces. But it’s never so loud that it is disruptive to your overall RV experience.

      Pros
      Aerodynamic design
      Enhanced fuel usage
      Strong performance

      Cons
      Can be loud at times

      8. Best Window-Mounted RV Air Conditioner: Home Labs HME020003N

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      Why we like it: The Home Labs HME020003N is a sturdily built air conditioner that will fit in most RV windows.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      BTU: 5,000
      Installation type: Window
      Weight: 36.5 pounds
      Dimensions: 16 x 15.4 x 12 inches
      The Home Labs HME020003N is built to be compact so that it can sit snugly in RV window units. The product has dimensions of 16 x 15.4 x 12 inches. The small size means that this air conditioner will fit in most windows unless you have extremely tiny windows in your RV.
      Although this AC is small, it is by no means a flimsy product. The body is built using materials that feel premium. The buttons are sturdy and don’t feel like you’ll damage them quickly.
      The Home Labs HME020003N is perfect for cooling small rooms. The 5,000 BTU it produces can quickly take a 150 square foot-sized room from warm to cold in a hurry. For larger spaces, however, you will need an air conditioner with a higher capacity.
      This RV air conditioner produces some white noise, but isn’t what you’d consider loud. You can have the AC running and hear your TV without cranking the volume up to unreasonable levels. So this one is good for your RV and for your ears.

      Pros
      Compatible with most RVs
      High-quality build
      Not overly noisy

      Cons
      Not suitable for spaces above 150 square feet

      9. Best RV Air Conditioner Air Distribution Box: Dometic 3314851

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      Why we like it: The Dometic 3314851 is a great accessory to distribute air from a non-ducted RV air conditioner – just keep in mind it won’t do the job by itself.
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a glance:
      Installation type: Rooftop attachment
      Weight: 10 pounds
      Dimensions: 23 x 21 x 2 inches
      This one isn’t an RV air conditioner on its own but performs an important function as an AC accessory. The Dometic 3314851 is an air distribution box, which means that it distributes air channeled into it. It’s a great product to have when you have to use a non-ducted AC but want to circulate the air from it.
      The Dometic 3314851 does that by first connecting to your existing rooftop air conditioner. If you have a roof that’s thicker than 4 inches, you will need to purchase the Dometic Bolt Kit to make the installation happen. This product works well with high-capacity ACs, such as ones with a rating of 15,000 BTU.
      Once connected to the rooftop AC, the Dometic 3314851 distributes air evenly across your RV. The Dometic 3314851 also acts as a control unit for your AC.

      Pros
      Distributes air from non-ducted ACs
      Can handle high-capacity air conditioners
      Doubles up as a control unit

      Cons
      Requires additional accessory for roofs thicker than 4 inches
      Not a full AC unit

      10. Best Non-ducted RV Air Conditioner: Atwood 15026

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      Why we like it: The Atwood 15026 is a non-ducted RV air conditioner that comes with a remote, making it easy to control
      Editor’s Rating:

      At a Glance:
      BTU: 15,000
      Installation type: Rooftop
      Weight: 88 pounds
      Dimensions: 40 x 28 x 15 inches
      We saw that products like the Dometic Penguin II and Airxcel Mach 15 can be used in both ducted and non-ducted setups. The Atwood 15026 is the first one on our list that works exclusively as a non-ducted RV air conditioner. Since it works only as a non-ducted AC, it’s a lot easier to set up in that environment.
      This RV air conditioner has a capacity of 15,000 BTU, which means that it is more than sufficient to cool large spaces. But cooling is not the only thing it does. The heat pump that it comes with can be used to heat your RV if you’re suddenly faced with a cold day. That said, the heat pump can run into problems at lower temperatures. You may not get the heating levels you want at temperatures under 42 degrees.
      Perhaps the best part about using the Atwood 15026 is that it comes with a remote. That means that you can control the AC without having to get up to change the temperature. Admit it: an AC that indulges your laziness is every RV owner’s dream.
      Installing the Atwood 15026 couldn’t be any easier. Once you have it in the AC slot, you can attach it using the 4-bolt bracket. The gaskets come attached to the product. After attaching the unit, you can connect ground, neutral, and hot wires to get it running.

      Pros
      Comes with a remote
      High capacity
      Easy to install

      Cons
      Heat pump is not always dependable

      Everything You Need to Know About RV Air Conditioners
      Most RV air conditioners last a fairly long time. Choosing the right product for your RV is half the battle. Here are some other things you will have to deal with when it comes to RV air conditioners.
      How to Install an RV Air Conditioner
      The exact steps that you will follow to install an RV air conditioner depend both on the RV that you own and the AC that you buy. The specifics that you need to follow will be mentioned in the instruction manual that will come with the product. Here are a few general pointers to keep in mind. Note that these are assuming you’re installing a rooftop AC.
      Always Unplug the Power
      Disconnect the power to your existing AC and turn off the switch powering it in your breaker box. You don’t want any surprises when you make contact with the AC or any wiring that connects to it.
      Create a Slot for the AC
      Take some time to decide where in the roof of your RV the AC will go. Make sure that there aren’t any lights or anything else in the way. Choose a spot that’s at least ten inches from each edge of the roof.
      Once you’ve found a slot that checks all those boxes, it’s time to make a hole in the roof. This part can be scary so only proceed if you’re sure of your ability to work with metal roofing and power tools. Make sure to mark where the bolts need to go after making the hole.
      Mount the AC
      It’s finally time to get that AC up on your RV. We’ve seen that some RV air conditioners can be heavy, so you may need some help with this. Once you have the unit up on the roof, secure it using the mounting bolts, the location of which you marked in the previous step. Then step into your RV and install the bolts that go into the ceiling of the vehicle.
      You can apply a sealant to the areas where the AC makes contact with the RV’s metal roof. This lends additional stability to the installation.
      Wire It Up
      The final step involves connecting the wires in the AC to the RV. You can match the color of the wires to do this correctly. Refer to the instruction manual if you have any issues knowing where each wire goes.
      If you get this part right, you should be able to turn the power on and have your AC up and running.
      How to Refill an RV Air Conditioner
      There will be times when you’ll need to provide some juice to your RV air conditioner externally. This usually happens because refrigerant levels in the unit need to be replenished. Refer to your AC’s instruction manual to find out what kind of refrigerant the vehicle uses.
      Once you have the refrigerant, head up to your AC’s roof along with wrenches of a few different sizes. You can use those to take the lid off the AC. Make sure to lift the lid carefully so that you don’t damage it.
      The refrigerant gauge under the lid is what will tell you how much additional refrigerant your RV is thirsting for. Check the gauge and unscrew the port to refill the refrigerant.
      You may be eager to get that lid back on at this point, but not so fast. First, power your RV back on and test your AC’s cooling to make sure that it’s working properly again. After confirming that, head back up and get the lid back on.
      How to Clean and Maintain an RV Air Conditioner
      Using an RV air conditioner for a long time requires regular maintenance. There isn’t really a one-size-fits-all checklist that all RV owners can use to make sure that they’re maintaining their vehicle the right way. There are, however, a few different parts of the AC that you should check regularly to ensure they’re in good condition.
      Filters
      Anything clogging the filters of your AC is sure to reduce the airflow through it. This can hamper the overall performance of the unit because clogged filters make the compressor work harder, leading to overheating. So check the filters regularly and make sure that they’re clean.
      Evaporator
      The evaporator is the part of the AC that captures excess heat and transfers it outside your RV. The coils of the evaporator are usually made of copper and the fins are made of aluminum.
      You can clean the evaporator by taking the shroud off its top and taking apart the plenum. You can use a coil cleaner to do the cleaning.
      Compressor
      The compressor is another important component of RV air conditioners. You don’t need to check on these too regularly; maybe just once or twice a year. The main thing you’re trying to do here is to get rid of the debris that tends to collect on the body of the compressor.
      The easiest way to do that is by using a spray cleaner. These will unsettle the debris that sits on the compressor. You can then use a shop vac to clean up all the loosened debris.
      Frequently Asked Questions About RV Air Conditioners
      How long do RV air conditioners last?
      ACs from good brands, like the ones on this list, tend to last longer. We also just saw how it takes a fair amount of maintenance to keep your RV air conditioner running at optimal levels. If you get all of that right, you can expect your AC to last about five years on average.
      How Much Does Installing an RV AC Cost?
      Not everyone can install their RV air conditioner on their own, and that’s completely fine. If you need help installing a new AC, you can take it down to your shop. The price to install a new unit tends to be around $200-$300 on average.
      How Do I Know When It’s Time for a New RV Air Conditioner?
      If your AC isn’t working as you want it to, the first thing you need to do is check on a few components. First, check the fan motor to see if it’s working properly. You can use a multimeter to check if the motor is functioning like it should. If it is, move on to the compressor and check if it’s clean and working properly. Finally, check the refrigerant levels.
      If both these parts seem fine and your refrigerant is topped up, and your AC is still not performing at its best, it may be time to consider a new AC unit.
      The Cool Open Road
      Travels that you undertake in an RV are meant to be carefree and relaxing. The best way to maintain that spirit of recreation is by choosing an air conditioner that can keep you feeling cool as you make your way down the open road.
      We’ve covered the best of what’s out there and how you can choose which RV air conditioner is right for you. After making that choice, make sure to maintain the unit well so that you don’t have to think about another purchase for a while. And if you’re looking for ways to entertain yourself in your RV, check out our list of the best RV antennas. More

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      The 10 Best Glues for Car Plastic to Buy 2020

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      There’s nothing cheap about owning a car, and even the slightest of collisions can result in frustrating repair bills. Making minor repairs yourself is a great way to save money and using good-quality plastic glue to make those repairs might save you a lot more than you think.
      The challenge is identifying which plastic glue is best for you, your vehicle, and the type of repair that you need to make. Remember that major repairs will require a lot more work than even the best plastic glues can accomplish. For smaller cracks and quick repairs though, glue can save both time and money.

      Factors to Consider When Buying Plastic Glue for Cars
      As well as being much easier to do yourself, using glue to make minor repairs to your car is significantly cheaper than alternative repair options like welding.
      In particular, glue is ideal for fixing seams due to its flexibility and natural water-resistance. After all, car parts typically require a degree of movement and are frequently exposed to water, moisture, and humidity. But while plastic is an incredibly useful material, it can be very demanding for standard types of glue. Most glue types struggle to bond with plastics, and that can make car repairs much more challenging.
      When you’re doing minor car repairs yourself (or even something major – like windshield repair), you need the best adhesives for the job. Here are the key factors to consider now you’ve decided to get your hands dirty with some plastic repair work.
      Type
      Glues that are suitable for fixing car plastics come in three main types. You’ll find each type within our product reviews, but for now, here’s a brief overview of your choices.
      Gel: the most common – easy to apply and dries solid
      Liquid: much more viscous, better suited for those with experience, but offers a hard seal once dry
      Spray: covers a wide area in one go, very time-efficient for larger jobs
      Quantity
      If you have a big repair job to get done, then you’re going to need a larger bottle. It makes sense to buy smaller tubes for smaller tasks because glue can dry out quickly, and it can suddenly become very difficult to remove caps and start using your tube. That just leads to wasted time and money. Some glues are designed with this in mind and will be a good investment, no matter the size of your repair job.
      Of course, you’ll also need to factor in shelf life. There’s no point keeping a tube of glue in your workspace (or your refrigerator) if it’s going to deteriorate to the point of not being useful when you need to make quick repairs.
      Color
      While some glues are clear and will remain so even after they have set, others have a more cloudy appearance, and others come in a black color. If the join you’re creating will be visible and you don’t want to reduce the value of your vehicle, then a clear glue will be the best option. If the join is going to be out of sight, then coloring will be less of an issue.
      Applicator
      We all know how messy glue can be, and that’s why you need to pay attention to the applicator. Even some of the best glues in the world have packaging problems and poorly designed nozzles, and the results can get very sticky indeed. Other glues will have a brush for smoother glue layers or for coating smaller parts. Our reviews detail all known issues with product applicators and packaging.
      Pliability
      The glue that holds the plastics in your car together needs to be as pliable as those plastics. If you use glue or adhesive that dries too solid, then it can more easily break if used on the plastic parts of your car that require flexibility. You need your glue to be able to move with the parts it is joined to without breaking the bond.
      Pliability at the time of application is also dependent on the dry time of the glue. To learn more about the expected dry time needed when gluing car plastics, check out our section here on setting time.
      Price
      Plastic glues for cars come in a wide range of prices, but more expensive doesn’t always mean it’s the best choice for you. In many cases, you’ll find that a cheaper, more suitable glue will do the job you need it for. Don’t get stuck on price if you have a very clear idea of what your repair job is going to be. Look instead at the glue that is designed for the job.
      With the above factors in mind, here is our top 10 list of the very best plastic glues for your car.

      Top 10 Best Glues for Car Plastic
      1. Best Overall Plastic Glue for Cars: E6000 230022 Medium Viscosity Adhesive

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      Why we like it: An industrial-scale glue that will do your car repair job easily and will bond parts of your car together so strongly that you may never need a replacement.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Quick Facts
      Type: Gel
      Quantity: 1
      Size: 3.7 Fl Oz
      Color: Semi-transparent
      Incredible Bonds
      This E6000 is one tough glue. It’s perfectly suited for making car repairs, and even big jobs will be made much easier and cheaper when you use this very affordable, incredibly tough adhesive. The best thing about this glue is that it’s an excellent all-rounder and is ideal for beginners and professionals alike.
      This is a glue that will stick glass to glass and plastic to plastic, and that helps make it one of the best glues on the planet. For auto repairs, it’s hard to beat. It’s an amazing glue, and because it’s been designed to perform in industrial settings, it’s more than powerful enough for your car repairs.
      Strong Odor
      This is a glue that you must use in a ventilated space, although outdoors is even better. It’s incredibly strong-smelling and will give you a headache if you try to use it in a small room with no ventilation. Follow the instructions, and you’ll avoid that particular issue.
      While an excellent glue, the E6000Auto/Industrial Adhesive does take some practice when it comes to application. It’s very easy to squeeze out more glue than you need, and you’ll find that even when you stop squeezing the tube, more glue will continue to release. Use your angles and try to pour out less than you need because this can be a very hard glue to remove if misapplied.
      Size and Warnings
      This is a big tube of glue, so you’re not going to run out for a while, no matter how badly damaged your car is. Make sure that you allow for drying time, with those projects that are left to set from between 24 and 48 hours more likely to stay stuck. It’s worth noting that this particular glue does come with a warning that says that it “contains a chemical known to the state of California to cause cancer.”

      Pros
      Incredibly tough
      Stays bonded despite temperature changes
      Can be used to stick almost anything to anything
      Large bottle

      Cons
      Strong, potentially headache-inducing odor
      Tricky to apply without practice
      Scary warnings

      2. Best Premium Plastic Glue for Cars: Henkel-Loctite 1363589 Super Glue Ultra Gel Control

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      Why we like it: Much cleaner and easier to use than liquid glues, this Super Glue gel is also tough enough to make car repairs.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Quick Facts
      Type: Gel
      Quantity: 4
      Size: 4g each
      Color: Transparent
      Easy to Use Gel
      Unlike the majority of plastic glues on this list, this Henkel-Loctite Super Glue is a gel, and that’s a major bonus point. That’s simply because it is so easy to apply and much easier than liquid glues, which are prone to making a mess. The glue itself is incredibly tough and durable, dries quickly, and will last for a long time no matter what kind of car repairs you’re carrying out.
      Single-Use
      The tip on this container is incredibly well-designed too, and it will only clog if you make the mistake of leaving it open. That means you can use it again and again, although the incredibly small container size is certainly more suitable for single-use jobs.
      It’s not a bottle as such and is more like a tube of single-use glue, and the downside of that is that it can be a job to get every drop of gel out. You may need to practice your squeezing grip! However, the ease of application is the big selling point of this ultra-clear gel, and even beginners will have few problems when it comes to making their car repairs.
      A Firm Favorite
      This may not be the strongest glue on the market, but when it’s this easy to make repairs, it’s certainly deserving of its place in this list. Put simply, this is the type of glue that once you use it, it will be very likely to be a regular feature of your shopping basket.

      Pros
      Fast to dry
      The firmer gel is less messy than liquid glues
      Won’t dry out
      Single-use tubes
      Easy to control

      Cons
      Small container
      Hard to get the last drops out
      Not the toughest glue

      3. Best All-Rounder: Gorilla Clear Glue

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      Why we like it: Very durable glue designed for indoor and outdoor use that makes it ideal for car repairs.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Quick Facts
      Type: Liquid
      Quantity: Available in 1-pack or 2-pack sizes
      Size: 3.75 Fl Oz
      Color: Transparent
      Gorilla Quality
      One of the biggest names in glue, Gorilla has a great reputation and a global brand. This clear glue is one of the toughest you can buy, and it’s particularly well suited to car repairs and maintenance because it’s designed specifically for indoor and outdoor use.
      However, although it is sold as water-resistant, it’s not fully waterproof, like the Loctite Clear Silicone Waterproof Sealant. So if you live in areas with high levels of rainfall, such as Seattle, Washington, or New York, then you should be wary of using this too much.
      The Price Issue
      On the plus side, this glue is great for car repairs, especially if you sand or roughen where you plan on joining your two pieces of material. Of course, price is an issue here, and Gorilla Clear Glue is one of the more expensive adhesives on this list, especially when you factor in how much you need to use for each job. That’s because you tend to need a lot more liquid with Gorilla glues, and this one is no exception.
      If you don’t use enough, then the edges will dry, and you will assume that the bond is sealed together when it isn’t. Unfortunately, using too little of this glue will leave you having to clean it and start again because you will always need more than you think.
      Drying Time
      You’ll have to let this glue sit for longer than other glues, sometimes for up to 48hours. This is a good, high-quality glue that can be ideal for car repairs, but the cost and the value for money make it less appealing than many of the alternatives.

      Pros
      Great for hot and cold states
      Incredibly reliable when used correctly
      One of the toughest glues on sale

      Cons
      You have to use a lot
      May not stand up to high levels of rainfall
      Takes a long time to set

      4. Best for Seams: Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement Glue

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      Why we like it: A runny glue that’s perfect for using along seams or for reinforcing large joins.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Quick Facts
      Type: Liquid
      Quantity: 1
      Size: 40ml
      Color: Transparent
      Extra-Thin but Ultra-Strong
      This is the best glue you can buy if you’re looking at long seams that need reinforcing on your car. It’s incredibly easy to use, thanks to its pointed applicator tip, which gives you maximum control over exactly where you want your glue to go. If you do make a mistake, this is an ultra-thin glue, so it’s not going to be a lot of hard work to clean off and start over.
      Don’t make the mistake of thinking that because this is classed as ultra-thin that it won’t be up to the task of car repair. Not only will this glue remove paint, which will make it easier to bond two plastics together, it will also flow easily into any cracks and grooves that you need it to.
      The Benefits of Being Extra-Thin
      The fluidity of this glue means it’s ideal for getting into seams and small spots. It runs more like a liquid than most of the other glues on this list, but it will make your joins very tough. It’s also very easy to apply, and the level of control that you get with the applicator tip makes it one of the easiest glues on sale for beginners, especially when mistakes can be rectified with very little work.
      It does have a very strong odor, so you’re going to want to use it only in a well-ventilated space if you don’t want to live with the glue smell for several hours after use.
      Perfect for Reinforcement
      While this isn’t a glue for big jobs and large parts, it’s ideally designed to reinforce those bigger jobs and could be the deciding factor when it comes to keeping your car in one piece. Unfortunately, it is almost too clear, which can make it very challenging to visually check that you have applied it to the right place. If you’d prefer something that’s easily visible, the J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder comes in black.

      Pros
      Incredibly easy to apply
      Perfect for small repairs and reinforcing other repairs
      Easy to fix gluing mistakes

      Cons
      Not strong enough for big jobs
      Can be hard to see
      Strong smell

      5. Best Budget Plastic Glue for Cars: Scotch Super Glue Liquid

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      Why we like it: The single-use, small bottles mean less waste, it’s easy to apply, and it doesn’t ooze after using it. Our favorite choice for small repairs.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Quick Facts
      Type: Liquid
      Quantity: 4
      Size: .07 Fl Oz
      Color: Transparent
      No-Run Perfection
      Scotch Super Glue is tough, durable, and versatile, and it’s also one of the least messy glues on the market. This small .07 oz bottle comes with a precision control applicator, and that means it’s incredibly easy to put your glue exactly where it has to go. This Scotch glue also comes with a no-run formula, although this isn’t always as effective as advertised.
      The good news is that the applicator alone is brilliant enough to justify its inclusion on this list, and the precision and control that you get is second to none. Most other glues will always ‘ooze’ a little more than you need unless you are experienced, but you don’t get that here.
      No Drying Out
      It’s not just the applicator that’s good either, because the bottle is also designed to specifically prevent the glue in the container from drying out. Like the Henkel-Loctite Super Glue, this glue comes in single-use tubes, but you aren’t limited to that single-use because you can always put the cap back on the container and store it.
      You get four in a package, so you can even have one in your garage, one in your car, and have two spares for other emergencies. So while the tubes are small, they have more than enough glue needed for quick and long-term repairs.
      Incredible Value
      This is the glue to look at if you’re only planning to make small repairs on your car, simply because larger jobs are going to need a lot more glue to get the job done. If you’re looking to get some larger repair work done, you may wish to check out the E6000 230022 Adhesive, which comes in a much larger size.
      Still, when it’s this easy to use, Scotch Super Glue Liquid in this small container is exceptional value.

      Pros
      Unique precision control applicator
      Incredibly easy to use
      Less waste
      Strong glue
      Excellent value for money

      Cons
      Not a lot of glue in the container
      The no-run formula can’t be relied on

      6. Best for Big Jobs: J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder

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      Why we like it: For really big joins, this hard-drying adhesive does the jobs that other glues simply can’t match.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Quick Facts
      Type: Gel
      Quantity: 2
      Size: 0.85 Fl Oz
      Color: Black
      Hardy and Permanent Adhesive
      This isn’t technically a glue and is classed as an ‘adhesive system,’ but it’s particularly well suited to car repairs. It’s fantastic when it comes to bonding carbon fiber composites, thermoplastics, and many different types of coated materials. This is a big leap from traditional glues, but that’s what makes it stand out.
      You mix it so that it can be more easily shaped, and it will fill out even the oddest of spaces. It also won’t drip or run as it dries, which always means less risk of things going wrong.
      Tricky to Prepare
      This is certainly more complicated to use than a basic tube of glue, but it sets incredibly quickly at just 15-minutes and once set, it’s a solid mass. It dries exceptionally hard, so it’s not going to be suitable for every repair job on your car. Often, you need a little flexibility and give, and this just won’t do that.
      Instead, what you’ll get is a solid and incredibly strong bond, and that makes it perfect for filling out any dents on your bodywork, fixing bumpers in place, and repairing any interior or exterior plastic parts of your vehicle.
      Long-Lasting
      This is the bonding agent you need if you want to make sure that any repairs that you make will last as long (if not longer) than the car itself. Classed as a permanent bond, once this is in place, you’ll never have to worry about it again unless you’ve made a mistake. It will dry black though, so you may need to paint over it if your vehicle is a different color and your repairs are going to be visible.

      Pros
      Extremely durable
      One of the toughest adhesives available
      Will last as long as your car
      Very quick to set

      Cons
      It dries hard
      Mistakes are hard work to rectify
      Takes skill to use

      7. Best for Fabrics: 3M Super 77 Multipurpose Spray

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      Why we like it: Quick and easy to use without the problem of it soaking into the material, meaning less waste and more bonding.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Quick Facts
      Type: Spray
      Quantity: 1
      Size: 16.75 Fl Oz
      Color: Black
      Joining Different Materials
      This is a spray-on glue, so it’s very different from others on this list. It’s designed more for lightweight jobs, but when it comes to applying the fabrics in your car, it’s hard to beat. Whether you’re joining fabrics to other fabrics or to plastics or metals, this is the glue for you.
      Unfortunately, if you’re trying to bond larger surfaces, then this won’t be your best option. In most cases, those larger surfaces will bond, but there is a very common issue with spray-on glues: if you use too much, then you’re going to end up with a weak joint, and that’s going to affect the safety of your car.
      Struggles in Hot Weather
      This spray-on glue is also prone to being vulnerable to hotter climates, so if you live and drive somewhere hot, then this is probably one to avoid. For those in more temperate states, this glue might be one of the best available. There’s no soaking-in, so you won’t lose too much of the glue to the materials, and it’s very uniform in its application.
      Potentially Very Messy
      Of course, because it’s a spray glue, you’re going to need to get some practice in, because it’s very easy to make a mess. When you start spraying glue, it can go where you don’t want it to go, and it can take a long time to clean up the mess that you make. Always put some tarpaulin down before you start spraying!
      As you’d expect, this glue does have a strong odor, but it’s not one that lingers. More suitable for fabrics but still above average for smaller plastic repair jobs, this is a glue that has a very defined (and limited) value to the majority of car repairers.

      Pros
      Good for lightweight jobs
      Ideal for gluing fabrics
      No soaking-in

      Cons
      Not great in high temperatures
      Hard and messy to use
      Not brilliant with plastic-to-plastic bonds

      8. Best for Extreme Environments: Loctite Stik n’ Seal Extreme Conditions Adhesive

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      Why we like it: One of the most resilient glues on the list, the bottle and liquid are both designed to be used in extreme environments.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Quick Facts
      Type: Gel
      Quantity: Available in 1-pack or 6-pack sizes
      Size: 0.58 Fl Oz
      Color: Transparent
      Fantastically Durable
      From warped plastic panels on your bodywork to fixing broken side mirrors, this is one of the best, most practical, and brilliant all-round glues for car repairs. This glue from Loctite has been designed to be used in extreme temperatures, and the result is a glue that can be used anywhere and is almost guaranteed to keep what you want where you want it. It’s brilliant in the extreme temperatures of Vegas and LA, but it’s also incredibly resilient in colder, wetter climates.
      This is the glue that motorists use when they’ve tried other, less durable options, and it’s the one you’ll keep coming back to if you try it just once.
      Appalling Packaging
      The problem is the packaging and the container. The packaging is needlessly difficult to open, while the applicator is incredibly imprecise. Considering the price of this glue, it should have a much easier to use application system, but the fact is that this is a very messy glue to try and use. That might seem like a minor nitpick, but you may need to get used to cleaning up glue messes until you’ve become a little more experienced with handling this troubling design.
      Drying Time
      Loctite Stik N’ Seal will create a permanent bond, but you will have to let it rest in place for drying. If you live somewhere humid, try to leave it for 48 hours, although generally 24-hours is more than enough. Often, it’s a good idea to use some tape to hold your pieces in place while this glue dries and bonds.
      Whether you’re reattaching parts of your exterior or resealing your back windows, this is the glue that will do the job, as long as you are prepared for the potential mess.

      Pros
      A permanent glue designed for extreme conditions
      You can use it almost anywhere on your car
      Perfect for big and small jobs
      No strong odor

      Cons
      Very messy
      Hard to open
      Long dry time

      9. Best for Clear Dries: Loctite Clear Silicone Waterproof Sealant

      View on Amazon
      Why we like it: One of the most practical clear glues you can buy, and it can be used for multiple types of repair jobs.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Quick Facts
      Type: Gel
      Quantity: 1
      Size: 2.7 Fl Oz
      Color: Transparent
      Amazing Glue, Flawed Packaging
      This is one of the glues where the glue itself is almost flawless, but the packaging and container let it down. Ideally, this glue would be much higher up the list, simply because it’s so good at what it’s supposed to do. It’s very easy to apply, and it doesn’t have the problem of being overly odorous. It will dry quickly, and it won’t peel either.
      Loctite recommends waiting up to 48-hours for the drying time, which might feel a little excessive, but that wait time is worth it. The result that you end up with will be as tough, waterproof, and as flexible as it comes. It dries clear too, so you won’t have to worry too much about the look of your car if you’re making exterior repairs.
      The Problem with Mess
      As soon as you try to open this otherwise excellent glue, you’re going to spot the problems. The cap will often split when you try to open it, and even if you can avoid that problem then it still might split when you finish with your glue and put the cap back on.
      Tightening it by even a minor amount will result in a split cap. Of course, with a split cap, the glue that you have left in the container will be quick to dry, wasting your money.
      It’s not just the cap that’s a problem either. The tube itself is very thick, which makes squeezing it a bit of an effort, and if you squeeze too hard, then you risk the tube cracking. That’s going to mean glue everywhere and a lot of waste.

      Pros
      One of the strongest glues on this list
      No strong odor
      Dries clear
      Very flexible

      Cons
      Easy to break the cap when opening
      The threat of splitting the tube
      Messy

      10. Most Beginner Friendly Glue: Amazing GOOP 160012 Automotive Adhesive

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      Why we like it: A very tough glue that is very easy for beginners to use and will stay in place as it dries.
      Editor’s Rating:

      Quick Facts
      Type: Gel
      Quantity: 1
      Size: 3.7 Fl Oz
      Color: Transparent
      Hugely Popular
      This is a solid little glue that will do a lot more than you might expect. It’s designed to remain durable in temperatures from -40°F and 150°F, so it might not be any use for engine repairs, but it’s more than up for the task of other car fixes.
      One of the reasons why this is such a popular glue option is because it has very little slip and slide when you’re placing two materials together. All you have to do is keep your pieces in place for a few seconds, and the bonding process begins. It won’t even stick your fingers together either! The low cost is just the icing on the cake.
      Read the Instructions
      Although the glue itself is great, its effectiveness will dramatically reduce if you don’t follow the instructions to the letter. It’s not great with metal, so if you’re trying to attach plastic to metal parts then your bond isn’t going to be as tough as you might hope. The major problem with GOOP is that it evaporates very quickly, so you need to make sure that you leave the lid on the container as much as possible.
      The other issue is that, because it is such a thin liquid, it spreads very quickly, and you may end up having to apply more than one coat if you’re joining large surfaces. However, it goes on easily (sometimes too easily), and it is very user friendly once you get used to the runniness.
      Potent odor
      This is one strong-smelling glue, and you absolutely must use it in only a well-ventilated workspace. Preferably, leave your glued pieces outside while they dry, because the fumes from this glue are both very strong and toxic. You will get a headache if you try to use it in a small, enclosed space.

      Pros
      Excellent glue
      Multi-purpose
      Inexpensive

      Cons
      Toxic fumes
      Easy to spill
      Quick evaporation

      Guide to Buying the Right Plastic Glue for Car Repairs

      The best glue for your car repairs will always depend on your level of experience and the job that you hope to do. Some products, such as the J-B Weld Filler Syringe, will require some prep work that can be confusing if you’ve never used it before. Alternative options like the Henkel-Loctite Ultra Gel are incredibly easy to apply, making these options perfect for first-timers or for those that just want quick and easy fixes.
      Picking the Best Plastic Glue
      Of course, not every glue is going to be suitable for every purpose. Keep reading for some handy tips on how to choose the right glue for your specific situation.
      Think About the Job
      If you want to stick two pieces of your car together, then you’re going to want something that’s going to stick. There are a lot of different types of plastic in your car, so you need to make sure that your glue will bond between the specific materials that you’re joining. For example, if you want to join carpet and fabric to plastic, then 3M Super 77 Multipurpose Permanent Spray will be the preferred choice.
      The bigger the job, the more glue you’ll need. For large jobs, you’ll want to avoid the single-use tubes that might contain excellent glue but will not be very cost-effective. Striking the right balance between the amount of glue that you need and the types of materials you are joining together is critical.
      Setting Time
      Lots of glues call themselves ‘fast set,’ but for very small jobs, that’s not going to be too much of a factor. Be wary though of paying too much attention to fast-dry claims when it comes to glues for car repairs. Making repairs on a car isn’t the same as breaking a child’s toy or your glasses.
      Cars suffer from a lot of wear and tear, and you need to give your glue time to bond properly. Even if a glue says that it bonds in seconds or minutes, always leave it for at least 24 hours. There are ways to make your glue dry faster if you’re in a rush, but as a general rule of thumb, it’s always better to let the glue do its job.
      Temperature and Weather
      It makes sense that you want your car glue to be resistant to water, especially if you’re making repairs where that glue is going to be exposed to the elements. You also need to factor in the heat of your usual driving environment. Drivers in North Dakota will need to think more about the glue’s resilience to cold, while drivers in Florida will have to make sure that their glue is resistant to heat and sunlight.
      Tips for Gluing Car Plastics

      Before carrying out any repair jobs on your car with glue, you need to get things right. It’s very easy to make a mistake when it comes to gluing, and although some extra-thin glues will make mistakes easy to rectify, thicker glues can be a mess. So you need to make sure that you do things right the first time. That will mean:
      Prepping the surface: Wash down your surfaces with soapy water or a specialized plastic cleaner. Alternatively, you can use isopropyl alcohol to make sure that your surfaces are as clear of dirt and other particles as possible. Then, make sure the surface is dry, and keep your hands away from the surfaces that you’re gluing as you will leave oil residue from your hands that will weaken the glue bond.
      Use sandpaper: Glue sticks better if the surfaces are not smooth, so it’s worth taking a few minutes to do some light sandpapering of where your glue is going to go. You don’t need to go overboard because you just want a light roughness to the surfaces. If you don’t have any sandpaper to hand, then some steel wool will do the job just as well.
      Clamping: Even if a glue claims to be quick-drying, that doesn’t mean your car will be ready to drive a few minutes after you’ve glued two parts of it together! You will want to keep those pieces together and immobile for as long as possible, with 24 hours generally being the minimum. Secure your bonded parts together using some form of clamp or use tape/elastic bands to make sure that your pieces don’t slip out of place.
      Cleaning up: Once you have finished gluing everything that you need to glue, it’s time to clean the bottle and the cap. Use denatured alcohol or isopropyl alcohol to remove excess glue or any spillages on your work surfaces. Then, reseal your glue tightly and keep it somewhere dry. Many people swear by keeping their glue in the fridge, while others will recommend using a sealed mason jar with some dried rice inside to absorb any moisture.
      Final Thoughts
      When it comes to saving money on car repairs, there’s nothing quite like doing those repairs yourself. When even big jobs can be completed by using glue rather than by welding or using heavy equipment, it’s always worth looking a little closer at your options.
      Don’t waste cash on expensive mechanics when you could already have all of the skills you need to start gluing your car back together again. More