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While a motorcycle is arguably one of the best ways to experience the country, when you’ve got to transport one from place to place without riding it, things get more complicated. Towing a motorcycle is no small endeavor, but it can be made much easier by using a proper motorcycle trailer.
The most important thing to consider when purchasing a motorcycle trailer is how you’ll be using it. Are you buying a trailer for a one-time trip? Are you a competitive motocrosser frequently headed to the track? Do you have a heavy cruiser or a lightweight 125cc city bike that can fit on a hitch-mount rack? Carefully consider how often you plan to tow, your type of motorcycle, and your objectives with a trailer before purchasing one.

Picking the Perfect Trailer
Even before starting to shop around for your first trailer, there are some vital things you’ve got to take into account related to your towing vehicle and motorcycle. Knowing the following stats will make it a lot easier to narrow down your options:
Motorcycle Weight: You’re not going to fit your half-ton Harley Super Glide onto a hitch-mounted rack, and you don’t need an enclosed trailer for a 125cc dirtbike from 1997. Remember: pick the right tool for the job
Motorcycle Dimensions: Rear racks typically have a maximum wheelbase of around 80 inches, and tow-behind trailers are no longer than they have to be. If you’ve got a trike or a chopper, be aware that you have different length requirements than other motorcyclists.
Towing Capacity: As a general rule, towing capacity is overstated by manufacturers, and make sure you’re adding in the weight of the vehicle itself along with its passengers and cargo. This means that while a crossover might claim 1500 pounds of towing capacity, once fully loaded up, actual towing capacity could be a lot closer to 500 pounds.
Type of Hitch: Most tow-behind trailers in this category (trailers for consumer vehicles) are designed around a two-inch ball hitch. Hitch mount racks are typically designed for class three receivers, with some class two and class four designs.
Features to Consider in a Motorcycle Trailer
The options for a motorcycle trailer are almost as broad as the options for a motorcycle itself. Whether you’re looking for something simple for one-time use on a cross-country move, or you need something to haul your dirt bikes to races every weekend, there are a wide variety of options that can work for you.
Trailer Format
Motorcycle trailers come in many different shapes and sizes for different needs, price points, and vehicles. The following types of trailers and racks are the most common types of motorcycle trailers available.
Fully Enclosed Trailers
For those inclined to treat their two-wheeled friend like the family, the best option is a fully covered trailer. While larger, heavier, and more expensive than other options, fully-enclosed trailers are much more protective than other options and can resist the rain, snow, dirt, and wind. Another benefit is their storage capacity: with enclosed trailers, there’s plenty of space to put accessories, luggage, panniers, toolboxes, and anything else you need to haul
Hitch-Mounted Trailers
Some lightweight motorcycles can be lifted onto a hitch-mounted trailer which slides directly into a trailer hitch. There are a couple of downsides, though, including the fact that they only support a limited amount of weight. These trailers forgo wheels entirely, suspending motorcycles up above the road.
Front Wheel Toe Brackets
Front-wheel toe brackets hook to just the front wheel of a motorcycle, virtually converting the motorcycle itself into a trailer. While they’re inexpensive, they leave the motorcycle exposed to the elements and put a significant amount of weight on the rear tire, causing a lot of wear.
Folding Trailers
Folding trailers are designed to be folded up and tucked out of the way. By adding the proper hardware, these trailers can be set up to haul motorcycles long distances. They’re both lightweight and reliable, but a bit more expensive.
Flat-Bed Trailer
A classic flat-bed style trailer isn’t only versatile in the way that it carries multiple types of cargo, it’s also versatile in that it can be formatted to carry either one or multiple motorcycles. They’re slightly more protective than folding trailers because a solid floor can block rocks from getting kicked up and scratching your motorcycle, but they still don’t protect from the weather.
Capacity
While the typical motorcycle trailer only holds one bike, other motorcycle trailer formats can carry two. Larger, fully-enclosed trailers (and sometimes folding trailers) can hold up to four motorcycles, although that’s rare and requires a truck meant for towing bigger loads.
Weight Limit
Pay special attention to a trailer’s weight limit depending on what kind of motorcycle you ride. Although some trailers (especially hitch-mounted options) can only hold a few hundred pounds, others can carry multiples of the biggest bikes: even a few Harley Super Sports won’t be an issue for the biggest flatbed or enclosed trailers.
With all of that in mind, let’s get in to our picks for the best trailers available today, whether you’re planning on daily transportation, a one-time cross country trip, or anything in between.

Top 10 Best Motorcycle Trailers 2020
1. Best Overall Motorcycle Trailer: Kendon Go! Series Single Rail Ride-Up Folding Motorcycle Trailer

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Why we like it: This trailer is easy to load and has a high weight capacity, meaning it’s perfect for those with slightly larger motorcycles who are looking for the best product possible.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Format: Folding Trailer
Capacity: One
Weight Limit: 1,000 lbs
In a world of motorcycle trailers meant for lightweight bikes or requiring modification, this trailer from manufacturer Kendon takes care of everything for you, admittedly at a premium price. However, for those with standard-sized motorcycles that are willing to pay for the best, this trailer is a phenomenal option.
A full 1,000 pound capacity will take care of just about every stock motorcycle on the road (even a Honda Goldwing weighs in at under 1,000 pounds) except for trikes, which won’t fit on this format of trailer anyways due to their ultra-wide rear ends—something like the Carry-On 5×8 Open Mesh Floor Utility Trailer would be better there.
It supports all of this weight on a 360-pound platform, lightweight and maneuverable enough to be hauled even by smaller SUVs and minivans (car models like the Toyota Rav4 and Honda CRV have towing capacities of about 1,500 lbs).
You’ll still want to use some tie-downs to secure the motorcycle in place, but it’s one of the most secure options on the market, and that’s by design. With lots of less-than-stellar options out there, most motorcycle owners with beloved bikes will be more than willing to splurge an extra few hundred dollars to make sure their motorcycle stays perfectly in place.
Loading
What really pushes this trailer to the top of our list is the ease of loading: not only does it fold up after use for easy and compact stowing away, it’s also specially designed to be easy to load. A wide ramp enables you to drive your motorcycle directly up onto the trailer into the chock that holds your bike upright. The ramp is longer, yielding a lower load angle that enables this. Especially with heavier bikes, this feature is incredibly convenient.

Pros
Fantastic ease of loading
Trailer folds up for compact storage
Holds motorcycle upright in place
Full 1000 pound capacity holds even the biggest motorcycles

Cons
Trikes won’t fit on this trailer due to their wide rear axles
Still requires use of tie-downs

2. Easiest Motorcycle Trailer to Use: Goplus 600 Pound Motorcycle Carrier with Loading Ramp

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Why we like it: This simple hitch-mounted trailer is one of the sturdiest axle-less options out there, supporting bikes up to 600 pounds with no issues and incorporating an easy-to-use loading ramp.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Format: Hitch Mount
Capacity: One
Weight Limit: 600 lbs
While most hitch racks only support a few hundred pounds of weight, this model from Goplus is a monster among hitch-mounted trailers, holding up to 600 pounds of brawny bike, beating out even some tow-behind flatbed trailers. While the weight limit is impressive, make sure to use a tie-down strap in addition to the two included quick releases, and to keep your speed under the manufacturer-suggested maximum 55 miles per hour.
The rack mounts directly into a 2” receiver (no ball mount required as with other trailers), suspended about a foot over the surface of the road. It’s 79 inches long, which will accommodate even the longest wheelbase motorcycles. There’s a vehicle chock welded in the rack tray to help support the bike vertically.
There’s one drawback, though: the weight limit isn’t a true 600 pounds. As far as holding weight while standing still, this bike can hold up a brawny liter bike all day. However, Goplus (the manufacturer) only provides a static weight limit, meaning when driving down the highway, heading over rough terrain, or accelerating, the weight limit is probably somewhat lower. If you want to be cautious, keep your loads under 450 pounds or upgrade to something with a truer limit like the Yescom 800 lbs Motorcycle Trailer Hitch Hauler.
Loading
Of all the hitch-mount options on our list, this trailer is probably the easiest to load thanks to a wide, stable loading ramp. Sure, you’re still pushing 550 pounds of metal up a relatively steep incline if you’ve got a big bike like a Harley Sportster, but at least a wide track makes the rolling relatively stable. If you’re loading a motorcycle over 300 pounds, it’s probably best to make sure you’ve got a spotter in the immediate area.

Pros
Incredibly stable to load thanks to a wide loading ramp
79-inch tray size accommodates long-wheelbase motorcycles
Vehicle chock welded in rack tray for support
2-inch receiver doesn’t use a ball mount

Cons
Weight limit isn’t truly 600 pounds
55 MPH maximum speed limit
Requires spotter for loading

3. Best Budget Motorcycle Trailer: Yescom 800 lbs Motorcycle Trailer Hitch Hauler

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Why we like it: A clever and proprietary design solves weight, length, and towing problems by turning the bike itself into an inexpensive trailer that attaches directly to the hitch.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Format: Front Wheel Toe Bracket
Capacity: One
Weight Limit: 800 lbs
This motorcycle trailer is completely different from anything else on the market with a unique design that lifts the front wheel of the motorcycle onto the back of your car, securely towing your bike without any extra wheels or axles. It’s the lightest and most minimal option out there, threading into a two inch hitch receiver and weighing in at just over 30 pounds.
If you’re planning on using this with a moped, though, you’re out of luck. Since it relies on the rear wheel to roll freely along the road, you need a neutral gear, which mopeds simply don’t have. In that same vein, make sure you put your motorcycle in neutral before using this rack. If not, you could completely burn out your tire.
Even if you use it properly, you’ll cause undue wear on your tire as it directly comes in contact with the road during trips both short and long. You also leave your motorcycle directly in contact with the elements when using this rack, as you can’t fit a moving motorcycle with a cover and there’s no flatbed trailer below to protect the bikes undercarriage from flying debris. Fortunately, motorcycles are made to hold up to weather and debris, and thousands of miles of use—just make sure you lube your chain afterwards if you happen to hit a rain shower.
Loading
While this rack is based on an incredibly clever idea, there are some problems that come with loading and transporting. Unlike motorcycle trailers with ramp-based loading systems, this rack requires the front end of the bike to be physically lifted onto the trailer, something that is difficult with heavier bikes (think about purchasing a motorcycle scissor lift to help out).
Another issue that comes with the territory is maximum tire size; this rack doesn’t fit anything bigger than 4 ⅞ inches, different from the owner’s manual which states it holds tires up to 5 ⅞ inches. If your bike has larger tires, check out something like the Black Widow Hitch-Mounted Aluminum Motorcycle Carrier instead, which accommodates a much wider variety of sizes.

Pros
Proprietary, clever design turns your motorcycle into a trailer
Entire setup only weighs about 30 lbs
Impressive 800 lbs weight limit

Cons
Doesn’t hold tires larger than 4 ⅞ inches
Can’t protect your bike from the elements or from road debris
Requires the bike to be physically lifted up to mount

4. Best Premium Motorcycle Trailer: Trinity MT3 Three Rail Motorcycle Trailer

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Why we like it: An expensive but rare three-motorcycle option, this motorcycle trailer is sturdy and specifically designed to be motorcycle-ready out of the box.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Format: Flatbed Trailer
Capacity: 3
Weight Limit: 2,000 lbs
While a hitch-based rack mount is convenient for even mid-weight motorcycles, it has a distinct disadvantage: they can only hold a single motorcycle. This flatbed addresses that issue, providing a fantastic capacity in a sub-500 pound format, hauling 3 separate motorcycles staggered on the single flatbed trailer.
While most other conventional flatbed trailers require you to install motorcycle mounting chocks yourself, this trailer comes delivered to your door completely ready to go. A 2000-pound weight limit is more than adequate for nearly every combination of motorcycles (unless you’re towing 3 Harley Road Glides), and many drivers will find themselves restricted by the towing capacity over their vehicle over the weight capacity of the trailer itself.
There are some flaws, however. The bearings, axles, and dust caps come installed but really need some level of service, lubrication, and thread lock (like LocTite) before taking on a long voyage. We wish the manufacturer would take care of the details before delivery, but once it’s good to go, it’s a solid trailer for many thousands of miles. One last note: due to state trailer licensing requirements, be advised that this trailer isn’t available for purchase in the following states: AZ, CA, CO, ID, ME, MT, ND, NH, NV, OR, SD, UT, VT, WA, and WY.
Loading
This trailer is surprisingly compact (and lightweight) for being a 3-motorcycle trailer, and although it’s particularly easy to maneuver, especially for beginners, it has the unfortunate side effect of being difficult to load. Space is simply at a premium in this trailer format, and 5 by 7 feet of space isn’t much. Obviously smaller displacement bikes are easier to load, but bigger bikes are more limited by space than by the trailer’s high weight limit. It’ll do the job, but if you regularly transport multiple bikes you might find the Carry-On 5×8 Open Mesh Floor Utility Trailer easier to use.

Pros
Compact and lightweight three-motorcycle trailer
Easy to tow for beginners
High weight capacity will hold all but the heaviest bikes
Trailer is delivered completely ready to go

Cons
Isn’t available for purchase or delivery in several states
Bearings and axles need some love before heading out on long trips
Difficult to load multiple motorcycles

5. Cotric 600 lbs Black Steel Motorcycle Carrier Mount Dirt Bike Rack

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Why we like it: This sturdy hitch-mount rack is an inexpensive solution that can hold motorcycles weighing up to 600 pounds, loading with a convenient flip-down ramp.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Format: Hitch-Mounted Trailer
Capacity: 1
Weight Limit: 600 lbs
One of our biggest issues with hitch-mounted trailers? Durability. All the weight relies on a single point to stay upright, not like with axle-based trailers that have wheels to support their weight. But this steel, powder-coated hitch-mounted is one of the most solid hitch-based options, made of a solid steel track coated with an anti-rust paint.
A 79-inch rail is long enough for even the longest of cruisers, and an adjustable wheel chock means that even shorter and smaller motorcycles can be adequately supported. Your motorcycle is locked in via several quick-release locks that thread through your motorcycle’s wheels and frame, although we’d still recommend a tie-down strap or two just as a fail-safe in case the quick releases wear out or fail.
Watch out for the fact that the rack is delivered inside of two separate packages that may not arrive at the same time, so if you end up with just half of a rack, wait a few days before panicking. And should you need any help, have confidence that a 100% customer satisfaction guarantee covers any issue you might have, from order placement through installation.
Loading
Although this rack’s loading ramp isn’t as wide or as easy to use as the Goplus 600 Pound Motorcycle Carrier’s loading ramp, it’s still relatively user friendly, especially when compared to trailers that aren’t motorcycle specific and require modification or the extensive use of tie-down straps. All in all, it’s one of the easiest trailers to load, especially with lightweight motorcycles.

Pros
Adjustable wheel chock and strong rail helps support all types of motorcycles
79-inch rail is long enough for even long-wheelbase motorcycles
One of the easiest trailers to load
100% customer satisfaction guarantee

Cons
Still requires a tie-down for security
Loading ramp isn’t particularly wide or easy-to-use
Delivered in two separate packages

6. Black Widow MCC-600 Steel Motorcycle Carrier

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Why we like it: This premium 600-pound motorcycle carrier is simple to use and fits directly into a trailer hitch, no wheels or axles required.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Format: Hitch Mount
Capacity: 1
Weight Limit: 600 lbs
This ramp-loading hitch-mount rack from Black Widow is one of the most expensive hitch-mount options, with a price justified by a high weight limit and a sturdy build quality. The metal tray fits large bikes with wheels up to 8 inches wide and up to 600 pounds. It’s designed to fit Class Three or 2-inch hitch receivers.
And while it’s a pretty solid motorcycle hauler, it falls to the same drawbacks as all hitch-mounted racks: namely, a difficult loading process, a less-than-stellar weight limit, and no auxiliary storage. And while it’s rated to 600 pounds, we’d be a bit more cautious: lean light, especially if you’ve got accessories and a full tank of gas.
Our recommendation would be to keep your total load under 500 pounds if you can, with a bit of wiggle room. That’s not to say that this rack will drop your bike as you roll down the highway, just that the more weight you have, the more likely it is that you’ll break the smaller accessory pieces (hooks, ratchets, and screws).
So while those looking for something to bring their dirt bike to the motocross track might see a perfect candidate in this rack, Harley riders with big cruisers might think about something a bit more brawny: a flatbed like the Kendon Go! Series Trailer simply suits bigger bikes better.
Loading
Loading bikes, especially hitch-mount variations, is always a bit inconvenient. A small trailer format without a rear axle simply doesn’t lend itself to convenient loading, even if it does have a ramp that allows you to roll the motorcycle directly onto the travel tray. Heavier bikes are more likely to scratch the tray paint and be harder on hardware, so the anti-rust coating and metal hardware is particularly welcome in this case.

Pros
Durable and solid tray holds heavyweight bikes with just a hitch
Loads with a convenient fold-down ramp
Metal hardware and anti-rust coating helps protect the tray
Fits Class Three and 2-inch receivers

Cons
Flatbed ramps are easier to use for loading
Smaller accessory pieces are slightly more likely to break under a large load
No auxiliary storage for saddlebags, equipment, or tools

7. Best Rack for Dirt Bikes: Black Widow Hitch-Mounted Aluminum Motorcycle Carrier

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Why we like it: This lighter-weight hitch-mounted trailer is particularly economical, although a 400-pound weight limit means that it’s more suitable for dirt bikes than for touring bikes, Harleys, and dual-sport options.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Format: Hitch Mount
Capacity: One
Weight Limit: 400 pounds
This hitch mount trailer is an absolute featherweight at well under 40 pounds with a full aluminum construction, although that means it does sacrifice a bit in terms of weight capacity: the rack tops out at carrying just about 400 pounds. But while other racks claim high capacities and really need a lighter-weight motorcycle to work properly, this rack’s 400 pound limit is totally accurate.
The welded aluminum rack simply feels solid, mounting into Class Three or Class Four hitch receivers. It’s great for dirt bikes as it accommodates tires up to 5 ½ inches wide, which are typically seen on motorcycles meant for motocross. The loading ramp is wide for easy storage and loading, but has punched holes in the metal, yielding significant weight savings.
The trailer also comes with an adapter that can hold smaller 50cc to 80cc motorcycles that are commonly meant for children to ride and learn on. It’s a nice feature, especially considering the fact that most trailers have trouble accommodating these ultra-small motorcycles.
Loading
A quite-small 400-pound weight limit yields a rack that feels rather flimsy, but the included ramp is easy to use, especially with lightweight bikes, feeling just as solid, if not more solid than the rack itself. A word of caution, though, that this isn’t compatible with class two hitches, the type of hitch that’s most common for crossovers and lighter vehicles.

Pros
Lightweight hitch mount rack is under 40 pounds installed
Loading ramp is wide and sturdy for easy loading
Accommodates larger format tires of up to 5.5 inches
Includes an adapter for smaller motorcycles

Cons
Not compatible with class two hitches
Tops out at a 400-pound weight capacity

8. Best for Trikes: Carry-On 5×8 Open Mesh Floor Utility Trailer

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Why we like it: While this flatbed trailer isn’t specifically designed for motorcycle use, it’s a phenomenal option that can be adapted into a motorcycle-specific hauler for around $1000.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Format: Flatbed Trailer
Capacity: Three
Weight Limit: 1600 lbs
As a trailer designed to haul farm equipment, UTVs, and ATVs, this trailer isn’t immediately ready for motorcycle use like more expensive trailers such as the Trinity MT3 Three Rail Motorcycle Trailer. But for a couple thousand dollars less, there are plenty of mechanically savvy motorcycle owners that are probably willing to do the job.
There are a few different approaches to loading this with motorcycles: the most simple, impermanent, and least secure option is using multiple inexpensive tie-downs to both prop the motorcycle up and hold it in place. We wouldn’t recommend this method for use during high speed, long-distance trips, and although it’s cheap, a more permanent option is prudent if you’ll be using this trailer specifically to haul motorcycles.
While cinching the motorcycle down is still prudent, screw in a permanent wheel chock (this option includes tie-downs) that will maintain your front wheel tightly in place. It’s not only more secure, but it’s safer and more convenient as well. This trailer ends up being a phenomenal option for trikes as well, as the wide trailer fits wide rear axles, and a high weight limit can handle even the brawniest of ¾-ton Harley three-wheelers.
Loading
With a back liftgate that also functions as a roll-up ramp, this is one of the simplest-to-load trailers on our list. There are two things to be aware of, though: firstly, while the frame supports about 1,600 pounds, the metal floor mesh used in this trailer is a little less durable than we’d like. When loading, you should be careful to make sure most of the motorcycle’s weight stays over the frame itself. Secondly, mind the slight gap between the loading ramp and the bed of the trailer itself—the space there is large enough for a thinner tire to get stuck, which can ruin your day (or wheel).

Pros
Customizable flatbed trailer is great for tinkerers
Mesh floor is lightweight, durable, and easy to work on
Roll-up ramp means bikes are easy to load
High weight limit can handle bigger Harleys and trikes

Cons
Watch for the slight gap between the loading ramp and the bed of the trailer
Mesh floor doesn’t support weight as well as the frame itself

9. Best Enclosed Motorcycle Trailer: Proline 6×10 Enclosed Trailer

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Why we like it: This pricey 6 by 10 foot trailer is large enough to hold two motorcycles, although it requires some modifications to become the motorcycle-hauler of your dreams.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Format: Fully Enclosed Trailer
Capacity: 2
Weight Limit: 3,500 lbs
The first thing to know about this trailer is the fact that it’s not a motorcycle-specific trailer. But in some ways, that’s what makes it great. The benefit of this bare-bones platform is the fact that you can set it up to your exact specifications, whether you want just one large, solid berth for a trike or several smaller ones for lightweight, nimble dirt bikes.
In fact, it’s one of the most adaptable trailers out there, with hardware meant to be customized with different tie-down locations and with a ¾ inch plywood floor that’s practically designed for the easy installation of accessories. Even motorcycle riders that head to the mechanic for an oil change will find trailer modification easy enough to tackle themselves.
An impressive near-two-ton load limit inspires complete confidence in the platform, while the single-axle design comes complete with 15-inch radial tires that are more than equipped to handle those kinds of loads. It has a lit interior that connects through the vehicle end trailer port, there are also bright brake lights and running lights. A 32-inch side door is convenient for quick access, and there’s plenty of space for storing motorcycle bags, panniers, accessories, and tool boxes.
Loading
With a drop-down ramp, motorcycles can be simply rolled up into the trailer, although the fact that the product doesn’t come specifically equipped with motorcycle-specific brackets means you’ll have to invest some time and effort upfront to make it work for your needs. The ramp is shallow enough that you can ride bikes straight into the trailer, although watch out for the small gap between the loading ramp and the floor of the trailer itself.

Pros
Adaptable trailer is sturdy and easy to load
Designed for installation and customization
Drop down ramp allows trailers to be easily loaded
Bare bones platform lowers price but makes it easy to add your own touches

Cons
Need to add your own motorcycle-specific brackets for compatibility
Gap between loading ramp and the trailer floor is difficult to navigate

10. Motogroup Aluminum Double Motorcycle Carrier

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Why we like it: This is the perfect rack if you don’t want a wheeled trailer and you’re headed to the track with a couple of small capacity dirt bikes, which admittedly isn’t everybody.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Format: Hitch Mount
Capacity: Two
Weight Limit: 600 lbs
This rack is cool, the only hitch mount solution on the market that can hold more than two motorcycles. Although the weight capacity isn’t stellar, it’s great for someone who’s hauling small bikes around, or even kids bikes around. It could work for mopeds as well, so if you’re a multi-moped owner, this rack could work well.
Along with a 600-pound weight limit, watch out for the rack length, which is quite a bit smaller than typical at 75 inches. While this isn’t a problem for dirt bikes, some smaller capacity cruiser-style motorcycles can measure a bit longer, meaning they won’t be compatible with this rack. Check your bikes’ spec sheets before buying.
However, that isn’t our biggest issue with this rack. Our problem, frankly, is the fact that the use case with this towing solution is so specific you might as well just get a real wheeled trailer with a bigger weight limit and much better capacity. Unless every motorcycle you plan to own is under 300 pounds, a better option might be a trailer like the Proline 6×10 Enclosed Trailer.
Loading
Loading multiple bikes, even lightweight ones, is downright tricky no matter how much experience you have or how solid your stand is. And frankly, this stand is not the most sturdy in our lineup with aluminum construction. Both sides of the rack rely on the same ramp, a 45-inch skid that yields a relatively steep load angle. Good thing you can only get light bikes up there, because pushing bikes close to the weight limit up onto the rack is a chore.

Pros
Perfect rack for bringing lightweight bikes around
Only hitch-mount rack that holds multiple bikes
A good option for hauling mopeds

Cons
Loading with the steep ramp is a chore
Use case for the trailer is really specific
Short rack tray might not work with some lightweight bikes

Guide to Buying the Best Motorcycle Trailers for 2020
Purchasing a motorcycle trailer is a big decision, as you’re trusting it to keep one of your most important and expensive possessions safe as you drive down the road. Just as you wouldn’t cut corners on motorcycle parts, accessories, or services, don’t cut corners on your motorcycle trailer either.
Safety Practices

It’s important to educate yourself on how to use a motorcycle trailer. The safest and most secure motorcycle hauler isn’t adequate when in the wrong hands. Familiarize yourself with all of the safety features and fail-safes of your trailer before use, or you could end up in a dangerous (and expensive) situation.
Towing a big load is both more dangerous and more difficult than driving your car without a trailer. With added weight and length, your car handles differently, your braking distance increases, and you have to work to predict traffic and think ahead as you drive down the road. Follow these tips to stay safe while driving.
Properly Connected Tail Lights
Almost any motorcycle trailer completely obscures the tail lights on your vehicle, meaning you’ll need a set of lights on the trailer itself to stay both legal and safe. Make a habit to plug your lights into the power outlet next to your trailer hitch every time you hook your trailer up, it’s also a good practice to make sure you regularly check that your trailer brake lights are working properly.
Emergency Brake
All trailers are subject to federal safety requirements, key among them legislation to ensure every trailer has a functioning breakaway trailer function. When hooking up your trailer, make sure to attach your emergency breakaway brake wire to the car itself, which will automatically stop the car from moving in case of a catastrophic trailer hitch or trailer failure.
Maintenance Schedule
As far as checks, lube, tire pressure, and other routine checks, the more, the better, but it’s easy to get carried away. Although you should definitely check tire pressure, breakaway chains, lights, safety chains, and your hitch every time you drive, follow this maintenance calendar for the best guidance on more long-term routine maintenance.
Runaway Chains
While a properly-maintained ball hitch combined with a breakaway emergency brake can prevent about 99% of trailer-related accidents, it’s important to have another layer of security just in case. Make sure your trailer has well-maintained runaway chains that connect to your hauling vehicle at least a quarter-inch thick. Also ensure that your chains are short enough so that they drag on the road below, as chains can wear through even during drives of 30 minutes or less when dragging on the ground below.
Setting Up a Trailer
Most flatbed, folding, and framed trailers don’t come set up by themselves for motorcycle hauling, although they’re designed and formatted to be compatible with the accessories needed to safely tow motorcycles like chocks, mounts, and tie downs. Take the following steps to set up a flatbed, folding, or framed trailer.
Install a Chock: While you can get away without a chock for slow, short distance trips, if you’re going to head out on a longer trip, you need something to hold your motorcycle upright. If it doesn’t come included, buy a chock.
Install Anchor Points: Tie-downs need solid points to attach to or they’re worthless. If your trailer doesn’t have specific anchor points meant for tie downs, make sure to install the proper brackets or hooks so your straps can be properly attached.
Safety Checks: Axles, hitches, and wheels are the most common points of failure on a motorcycle trailer. When your trailer is delivered, make sure to perform a basic service on these trailer parts, also make sure you perform periodic services on these key parts so that your equipment is always in good working order. Your owner manual can help you determine the frequency of these check-up services.
Tire Balancing: New trailer checks are much less rigorous than new vehicle checks, meaning that your trailer might not arrive in the ideal condition to head out on the highway. Most commonly the source of instability at speed is an important step that some manufacturers skip: tire balancing. Tire balancing is inexpensive, usually under $20 per tire, and will provide an immediate impact to how your trailer maneuvers, especially when driving at higher highway speeds.
Protecting Your Motorcycle

Unless you have a completely covered trailer, your motorcycles are left exposed to the elements whenever they’re being towed. Take the following steps to make sure your motorcycle arrives at the final destination in perfect condition.
Use a Cover: A cover is the simplest and least expensive way to protect your motorcycle when hauling it on a trailer over long distances. Make sure that it’s cinched down as tight as possible for maximum fuel efficiency. Alternatively, choose a covered trailer like the Proline 6×10 Enclosed Trailer.
Drive Slow: Not only are trailers easier to control when driven at slower speeds, they’re also less likely to kick up the gravel and dirt that can damage your motorcycle.
Check Tie Downs Periodically: Even if you have a direct bracket to mount your motorcycle, you’ll probably still be using at least one tie-down to double-check security. Every couple hours of driving, check your tie-down to make sure it hasn’t loosened.
What You Need With Your Motorcycle Trailer
To maximize what you can do with your motorcycle trailer, you need a lot more than just a ball hitch. To protect and care for your bikes on longer trips, consider purchasing the following auxiliary products/accessories to provide proper care and security to your bikes.
Motorcycle Locks
While it’s a great practice to get in the habit of using a motorcycle lock every time you pull in the driveway, it’s even more important when traveling. Opportunistic thieves can accomplish rollaway thefts in under one minute, quick enough to nab your expensive bike when you’re in the bathroom at a gas station. Even if you’re using a locked, enclosed trailer, it’s not a bad idea to add an auxiliary lock. You can take a look at a list of our favorite motorcycle locks here.
Motorcycle Covers
Predicting weather during interstate travel is notoriously hard to do. If you don’t have an enclosed trailer, your motorcycle ends up enduring whatever conditions you end up driving through. Even in the best weather, your motorcycle is susceptible to damage from rocks and dust kicked up by other vehicles and flying debris. It’s a great idea to place an inexpensive motorcycle cover over your bike to protect your prized possession, so check out this list of motorcycle covers if you’re in the market for one.
Tie Downs
Tie-downs are one of the most important aspects of motorcycle hauling, securing your motorcycle in place onto the trailer. A catastrophic tie-down failure can mean disaster for your motorcycle and other road users, so make sure you’re purchasing a tie-down rated for the proper weight limit and verified by a trustworthy cargo certification body like the AAR (American Association of Railroads).
Motorcycle Lube
Especially if you’re not using a cover, your motorcycle lube, grease, and wax will gradually get stripped off over long drives in inclement weather. After every trailer trip, check that your bike is adequately lubed and greased. You can see some of our favorite motorcycle lubes here.
Motorcycle Lifts
No matter what type of trailer you’re using, a motorcycle lift will make loading much easier. From small format portable scissors jacks that will make loading hitch mount trailers (like this one from Goplus) ridiculously easy, to larger pneumatic lifts that you can store in an enclosed trailer, a motorcycle lift simply makes life easier for motorcycle owners. Check out our article on these ultra-convenient garage lifts.
Wrapping Up
Towing a motorcycle is serious business: when you’re hauling you have to take care not only of your prized bike, but also make sure to protect yourself other road users in the process.
No matter how big your motorcycle is or how far you’re towing, there’s a trailer out there for you. While it might require some modification to become the motorcycle-hauler of your dreams, there are plenty of safe and convenient options to get your two-wheeled friend from point to point. More

If you love RV life as much as we do, chances are you’ve already exposed your ride to the rigors of Mother Nature – and then some. Even if you’re cruising about in a top-of-the-line rig with a brand new build, your beloved RV is going to develop a few cracks and crevices in her roof sooner or later.
But don’t stress, because fixing a leaky RV roof is an easy DIY job that doesn’t require any technical skills. First things first, however, you’ll need to pick out the perfect sealant product for your needs. And that’s where our in-depth buyer’s guide and top 10 recommendations come into play.
So listen up, because we’re about to provide you with all the info you need to find the ideal sealant or coating—that way, you’ll never have to suffer through a leaky RV roof again.

Factors to Consider in RV Sealant and Coatings
Before we delve into our top ten list of RV coatings and sealants, you must understand what the key features to consider are. Keep the following points in mind when shopping for a sealant or coating to use on your rig. More information about each of these factors is in our full guide below.
Material Compatibility
Almost all RVs on the market use one of four different materials in the roof: EPDM rubber, TPO rubber, fiberglass, or aluminum. The ideal product for you depends on the material you’ve got up top, so the first thing you need to do is climb up and have a look.
Sealant or Coating
Although some products serve as an RV sealant and coating in one, that isn’t always the case. Sealants are specially designed to fill in cracks, while coatings add UV, moisture, and heat resistance to the entire surface area of the roof. Choose accordingly.
Formula Type
RV sealants and coatings come in varying formula types—silicone, urethane, and acrylic—each of which has its distinct pros and cons. See our section on sealant and coating formula types in our full guide to determine what will work best for you.
Consistency Type
RV sealants and coatings also come in three consistency types: putty (typically silicone), liquid (acrylic or urethane), and tape (varies). Each has its pros and cons, which you can learn about in our consistency type section.
Durability
All RV sealants are designed to protect your rig from the sun and the rain. Some, however, work better than others, so it’s best to opt for a highly regarded product that has a reputation for standing the test of time.
Ease of Application
Urethane and acrylic coatings may require a primer and several coats to create an effective seal, thus increasing the time and effort it takes to apply them. Silicone, on the other hand, requires just one coat, but it isn’t ideal in certain situations.
Color
RV sealants come in an array of different colors to suit most vehicles out there. Choose the closest possible color to match your rig to preserve its aesthetic appeal. If you can’t find anything appropriate, consider a paintable or transparent sealant instead.
Cost
Cost shouldn’t be a major consideration when shopping for an RV sealant. Although a premium brand could cost double that of a budget product, the difference will only be about $20 or so—and that’s nothing to spend on the long-term wellbeing of your beloved RV!
Now you have a clear idea of what to look for, let’s dive into our list.

Top 10 Best RV Roof Sealants and Coatings 2020
1. Best RV Sealant Overall: Sikaflex-221

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Why we like it: Sikaflex is the world’s most famous automotive sealant, and it works like a charm on RVs.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Polyurethane Silicone
Consistency: Putty
Sealant / Coating: Sealant
Compatible With: Everything
Color: White
Size: 10 ounces
Coming in at over $1.50 per ounce (no bulk buy discounts available here), Sikaflex doesn’t come cheap, not by any stretch of the imagination. But this awesome product is worth every last penny because there’s nothing stronger out there on the market.
Ask any automotive repairer what they use to fix leaky roofs and walls, and chances are they’ll tell you Sikaflex is the way to go. And the good news is this product works just as well on your RV, allowing you to apply a permanent elastic adhesion to your roof that won’t cut or tear over time—Sikaflex is specifically designed to absorb the shocks and bumps of the road.
This brilliant product is weatherproof and works well in both hot and cold climates. Once it’s been cured, It’s even safe if it comes into contact with potable water and food.
However, be aware that the stuff has a nasty habit of spreading itself everywhere upon installation and is a massive pain to remove. Be sure to apply Sikaflex exceptionally slowly and carefully to avoid accidentally sealing a whole bunch of things you didn’t want to.
On the plus side, you can always sand it back or paint over it when you inevitably make a mess.
Pro tip: Wrap cellophane around the end of the tube and store it in the fridge and you’ll be able to reuse it many months later.

Pros
Strongest sealant on the market
Works well in all situations
Resistant to hot and cold conditions
Doesn’t cut or tear on the road
Safe for contact with drinking water or food

Cons
Very messy
Hard to remove
Expensive

2. Best Premium RV Roof Sealant and Coating: Heng’s Rubber Roof Coating

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Why we like it: This popular sealant and coating plugs up cracks and protects rubber roofs for years to come.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Acrylic
Consistency: Liquid
Sealant / Coating: Both
Compatible With: All Types of Rubber
Color: White
Size: One Gallon
Heng makes one of the most popular RV sealants and coatings for rubber roofs on the market, and it’s little wonder this product is a hit because it works incredibly well. The acrylic-based liquid slips easily into tiny crevices to seal problematic rubber roofs; it also serves as a powerful coating for enhanced UV protection. What’s more, it expands and contracts with your roof over time, which means it simply lasts longer than other products out there.
Got an issue with a leaky air-conditioner or vent? This product will sort you out in a jiffy as it’s excellent for these kinds of applications. And if you’re worried about safety, rest assured Heng make a non-polluting and non-toxic sealant that won’t make you dizzy or ill.
Although applying a primer will help the process along, it’s not strictly necessary. You could use the formula on its own and still achieve a strong seal, which dramatically reduces the time and cost of the process.
While the product costs more than most other coatings, note that it comes in a sizable one-gallon container. Therefore, if you plan to recoat your roof several times, it actually works out to be pretty good value for money.
On the downside, the acrylic formula won’t offer the same level of protection as silicone. Furthermore, it only works on rubber roofing, so give it a miss if you’re rocking fiberglass or the like.

Pros
Sealant and coating in one
Expands and contracts with your roof
Safe formula to work with
Can be done in one application
Slips into small cracks

Cons
Works better with primer
Acrylic not as good as silicone
Only works on rubber roofs

3. Best Budget RV Sealant and Coating: Dicor 501LSW-1

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Why we like it: It’ll fix stubborn cracks in EPDM rubber for a fraction of the cost of the competitors.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Self-leveling silicone
Consistency: Putty
Sealant / Coating: Sealant
Compatible With: EPDM and TPO sheeting
Color: Creamy white
Size: 10.3 fluid ounces
If budget is your primary consideration when fixing a leaky roof, the Dicor 501LSW-1 is worth considering. This affordable solution works well on air vents, pipes, and cracks and will get the job done for a minimal cost.
The product is compatible with both EDPM and TPO type rubber, meaning it’s good to go on most RV roofs. Aside from rubber, it’ll also bond to various other materials, including concrete, aluminum, fiberglass, and mortar. And don’t be put off by the fact it’s self-leveling because you rarely need to make any vertical applications when working on a roof.
This one comes in a nice creamy white color that blends seamlessly with most RV roofs, although the option is there to pick other colors if necessary.
The sealant is pretty easy to apply, typically taking five minutes once the area is ready to work with. Waterproofing requires a four-hour wait, and you’ll need to wait 48 hours in total before it’s 80% cured. The catch? You’ll have to wait a whole month before it’s fully (100%) cured.
It comes in a tiny 10-ounce tub, so grab a few if you need to do a big repair job.

Pros
Very cheap
Compatible with all standard RV roofs
Works well on various leaks
Multiple colors available

Cons
Small package size
Takes a while to cure

4. Best Multipurpose RV Sealant: Flex Seal Liquid Rubber

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Why we like it: Flex Seal Liquid Rubber works on a variety of applications aside from your RV roof.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Acrylic
Consistency: Liquid
Sealant / Coating: Both
Compatible With: Rubber
Color: White
Size: 1 gallon
It’s “like liquid rubber in a can,” as the manufacturers say, and they’re not far off the mark. This widely popular product is a hit among DYI home improvement types for its sheer versatility—you can use it to coat or seal just about any kind of rubber imaginable. Waterproofing and weatherproofing a rubber surface is super easy thanks to its spreadable liquid-like consistency, which you can roll, brush, dip, or pour all over the desired area.
Despite how simple the product may seem, it works remarkably well, sealing out air, water, and moisture with ease while preventing mildew and corrosion.
Flex Seal Liquid Rubber is safe to work with, with no flammable, toxic, or hazardous components to speak of. Feel free to use this one around plants and animals without fretting about their wellbeing.
The secret to its user-friendly success is the thin consistency, but be aware it does come with a downside. You’ll likely need to apply the product up to three times to create a satisfactory seal or coat, and that requires a substantial amount of extra time and effort.

Pros
Versatile product suitable for multiple purposes
Easy to use liquid with a thin consistency
Effective at preventing moisture, mildew, and corrosion
Safe product to work with, even around plants and animals

Cons
Requires up to three coats for optimal effectiveness

5. Best RV Tape Sealant: EternaBond RSW-2-50 RoofSeal Sealant Tape

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Why we like it: While it won’t compete with liquid sealants, this works better than any other tape on the market.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Consistency: Tape
Sealant / Coating: Sealant
Compatible With: Everything
Color: White
Size: 2″ x 50″
Although liquid and putty-style sealants tend to be the most effective, tape is an option when the affected area is nice and flat. And as you might expect, it’s a whole lot easier to apply than an ultra-sticky putty or gooey liquid.
Several sealant tapes are available on the market, many of which will work well on the roof of your RV. But the product that stands out from the crowd for its superior sealing properties is the EternaBond RSW-2-50 from RoofSeal.
EternaBond consists of a clever concoction of synthetic resins, thermoplastics, non-curing rubber, and a primer. The result is a high elongation level that allows it to contract and expand without compromising its adhesiveness. While the white finish works wonders at reflecting sunlight, it will appear a little odd if you don’t have a white car.
If you weren’t aware, with tape, you still have to clean the surface thoroughly with Isopropyl Alcohol. But once that’s done and dusted, all that’s left to do is peel off the protective silicone lining and carefully position the tape in place.
A word of warning, though: the stuff is super susceptible to the elements. Don’t use this on a wet day, and keep your RV in a sheltered place for at least a week after the application. Otherwise, you could inadvertently trap water droplets underneath the tape, which will eventually cause it to fray and decay.
If you don’t think two inches will be wide enough, rest assured the product comes in four and six-inch variations as well.

Pros
Excellent sealing properties
Easy to use and can be applied in minutes
Contracts and expands without losing adhesiveness
White finish reflects sunlight
Available in multiple sizes

Cons
Not as powerful as liquids or putties
Only works well on flat surfaces
Highly susceptible to water and snow

6. Best RV Roof Rubber Coating: KST Coating Elastomeric Finish Coat

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Why we like it: It does a superb job of blocking out any potential leaks before they occur.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Acrylic resin
Consistency: Liquid
Sealant / Coating: Coating
Compatible With: Rubber
Color: White
Size: 4.75 gallon
“Prevention is better than cure,” as the old saying goes. And rather than waiting for a hole to appear in an RV roof and water to start gushing through, savvy RVers apply a protective coating ahead of time to stop cracks in their tracks.
While RV sealants work wonders at filling in holes and gaps, RV roof coatings are designed to be applied over the entire roof to strengthen its integrity. KST doesn’t lose adhesiveness in adverse weather and will expand and contract to retain optimal flexibility.
A high-quality coating such as this will enhance the UV and water-resistant properties of your roof thanks to its potent elastomeric finish. Furthermore, this outstanding American-made product protects against algae, mildew, mold, and moisture, making it ideal for folks in hot and humid environments—it’s a big hit in Florida, for example.
The manufacturers back the product with an extensive seven-year warranty, which helps reassure customers who may balk at the hefty price tag. The main drawback is the product comes in an enormous (and expensive) 4.75-gallon tin that covers a whopping 1500 sq ft., big enough to coat a small house—don’t worry, the product works fine on all rubber roof RVs as well.
Another downside is that elastomeric coatings tend to dry in thin layers, and this model from KST is no exception. You’ll need to apply at least two coats (a base coat before the white coat) to achieve optimal protection.

Pros
Excellent elastomeric coating for RVs
Perfect for humid environments
Protects against the sun and the rain
Remains adhesive and flexible in adverse weather

Cons
Requires two coats for optimal performance
Rather expensive
Comes in a massive tin that’s more than you need

7. Best for Fiberglass Roofs: Dicor Fiberglass RV Roof Coating

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Why we like it: It provides exceptional protection for your fiberglass RV roof and is easy to apply.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Acrylic resin
Consistency: Liquid
Sealant / Coating: Coating
Compatible With: Fiberglass
Color: White
Size: 1 gallon / 350 sq ft.
While the KST Coating Elastomeric Finish Coat is your best bet for a rubber RV roof coating, this nifty product from Dicor is the ideal way to make your fiberglass last. The specially formulated acrylic resin mixture has been purposely designed with the fiberglass RV roof in mind, allowing it to provide ample protection and a long-lasting shine.
This formula is entirely free of ingredients that can damage delicate fiberglass, including petroleum distillates. Therefore, it’s safe to use on your fiberglass roof without the risk of corrosion.
Most RV coatings tend to lose their sheen over time, but this product from Dicor offers a persistent bright white finish that doesn’t tend to fade. It’ll also reflect the sun’s UV rays to help keep your RV cooler—a godsend in summer—and provide protection from algae and mildew.
Like other acrylic resin roof coatings, you’ll need to apply two coats to get the job done and wait for a considerable amount of time before it’s dry. Nonetheless, it’s well worth the effort to keep your fiberglass roof in tip-top condition for the season to come.
But buyer beware: be sure to apply it as you’re heading into the warmer months. Pure acrylic resin coatings tend to peel and crack when the temperature dips below freezing.

Pros
Specially designed fiberglass RV coating
Resists mold and mildew
Protects from UV rays
Retains long-lasting sheen

Cons
Requires two coats
May peel over winter

8. Best for Metal Roofs: Dicor RP-MRC-1 Elastomeric Coating

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Why we like it: This powerful product provides your metallic RV roof with all the protection you need.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Acrylic resin
Consistency: Liquid
Sealant / Coating: Coating
Compatible With: Metal
Color: Arctic white
Size: 1 gallon
Dicor makes our favorite fiberglass RV coating, and the company is on the money with their metallic version as well. Once again, Dicor has specially designed this product for optimal performance with a specific roof type—in this case, metal. Therefore, RV owners looking for a way to coat their aluminum roof can rest assured they’re making the right choice.
The 100% acrylic elastomeric resin dries into a rubber-like coating that does an excellent job of protecting metal surfaces from the elements. Resistant to both mold and mildew, the coating expands and contracts as your roof rattles around to ensure it can stand the test of time. It’ll also reduce the likelihood of cracks forming in your roof, thus preventing potentially damaging leaks.
The bright white finish, which is almost identical to the fiberglass coating, reflects the sun’s rays. However, it may start to look dirty quicker than other products, but that’s nothing a vigorous scrub with soapy water can’t fix.
You’ll need to add two coats for optimal performance; the one-gallon tin is good for up to 200 sq ft. As you’re working with metal here, remember to treat any rust first and apply a primer. The coating should only be applied when the temperature is higher than 50F.

Pros
Ideal coating for metallic RV roofs
Expands and contracts
Mold and mildew resistant
Reflects sun’s rays
Prevents cracks from forming

Cons
Starts to look dirty quite quickly
Requires rust removal, priming, and multiple coats
Can’t be applied in cold weather

9. Best Transparent RV Sealant: Geocel 28100V Pro Flex

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Why we like it: It seals up even the most stubborn leaks and is barely noticeable no matter the color of your roof.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Silicone
Consistency: Putty
Sealant / Coating: Sealant
Compatible With: Fiberglass and aluminum
Color: Transparent
Size: 10 fluid ounces
If you’ve got a uniquely-colored RV, then the last thing you want to do is seal up your roof with a standard white or cream sealant. And that’s where the 28100V Pro Flex from Geocol comes in, with its transparent texture that works well on any colored RV.
Before you get too excited, do be aware the sealant isn’t entirely invisible. You’ll still be able to notice it if you look closely and carefully, especially should you fail to apply it in a smooth, even coat. You can paint over the top of it, though, which is perfect should you decide you’re not quite happy with the outcome.
Nonetheless, in terms of aesthetics, it easily outperforms any white sealant for colored RV roofs.
Aside from being see-through, the 28100V Pro Flex is a pretty decent sealant. The silicone-based product is remarkably flexible and resistant to cracking, plus it’ll retain its adhesiveness in even the toughest weather conditions. It’s durable, too; the sturdy sealant resists mildew and mold for up to 25 years.
Novice roof sealers also love how easy this product is to apply. Unlike other more powerful sealants—we’re looking at you, Sikaflex—the Pro Flex isn’t wild and stringy, so you won’t have to make an ungodly mess. And if you do happen to squirt a bit of stray goo where you shouldn’t have, it’s relatively easy to clean up again.
This product works well with fiberglass and aluminum, although it’s not suitable for rubber RV roofs.

Pros
Transparent for use on any roof color
25-year lifespan
Protects against UV, mold, and mildew
Resistant to cracking
Easy to apply and clean

Cons
Not suitable for rubber roofs

10. Best Self-Leveling Sealant: ToughGrade Self-Leveling RV Lap Sealant

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Why we like it: It works perfectly on horizontal workspaces such as roofs.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Self-leveling silicone
Consistency: Putty
Sealant / Coating: Sealant
Compatible With: Rubber
Color: White
Size: 4x 10-ounce tubes
This rubber self-leveling sealant is an excellent option for RV roofs with stubborn leaks and cracks that are difficult to reach. The tiny tube slides into a caulking gun for easy application in inaccessible places and will level itself with time for a smoother finish. Use it to seal vents, pipes, holes, cracks, and crevices in your roof, virtually anywhere on a horizontal plane.
Do note, however, that self-leveling sealants cannot be used on horizontal surfaces—give this one a miss if you also plan on sealing your RV windows.
ToughGrade can withstand the elements without cracking or peeling, even in freezing conditions and bucket loads of snow.
It’s simple for the layman to apply as well—all you’ve got to do is clean the area and squirt it on. What’s more, it dries super quickly, and you can paint over the top of it to achieve your desired look. That’s just as well because the sealant comes in an unusual off-white color that doesn’t blend well with your standard RV roof.

Pros
Excellent for horizontal applications
Doesn’t degrade over time
Doesn’t degrade over time
Dries fast
Can be painted over

Cons
Off-white color doesn’t match most roofs

RV Roof Sealants and Coatings: A Buyer’s Guide
Before you take the plunge and purchase a sealant or coating to fix your RV, it’s worth doing your research to learn everything you can about the products and processes. In this in-depth buyer’s guide, we’ll explain in detail the different types of sealants/coatings and roofs, as well as how to fix a leaky RV roof on your own.
What’s the Difference between RV Sealants and RV Coatings?
Contrary to popular belief, there is a notable difference between RV sealants and RV coatings.
As the name implies, sealants are specially designed to seal any cracks that may have formed in your roof due to wear and tear on the road. These highly malleable and weather-resistant products are ideal for fixing a leaky roof to keep your RV—and the contents within—dry.
Coatings, on the other hand, are intended to be painted or sprayed over the top of your RV roof. These preventative products enhance the structural integrity of your roof and increase its UV and weather-resistant properties.
While liquid coatings can seal minor cracks in a roof, silicone-based sealants are always more effective. Of course, using a putty-like adhesive such as silicone to coat your entire roof would be hilariously inefficient, so you’d need to purchase a separate product if you want a weather-resistant coating as well.
Although many RVers may apply a sealant and a coating simultaneously, the two products serve distinct purposes.

The Benefits of Sealing and Coating Your RV
Even a low-cost RV requires a considerable financial outlay, so it makes sense to do everything you can to protect your investment. And one of the easiest ways to degrade an RV over time is by neglecting to maintain its roof.
Life on the road involves millions of rattles and bumps, each of which takes a tiny toll on the structural integrity of your RV. But when combined over a prolonged period, these little rumbles eventually form cracks in the membrane of your roofing. Naturally, the first place to come apart is the sealant, which, when compromised, will allow water to gush through your roof and into your RV.
If left as is, that water flow will rot your wood, rust your steel, and fry your electrics—potentially costing you thousands of dollars in repairs over time. The best way to avoid forking out for an eye-watering repair bill is by sealing the roof of your RV religiously.
Aside from keeping water out, a properly sealed and coated RV roof will improve your overall insulation, thus making it more energy-efficient to heat or cool your mobile home.
RV Roof Sealant and Coatings Formulas
There are three main varieties of RV sealants to choose from, each with distinct pros and cons. No one particular type is the best for every situation, so you’ll have to study these carefully to determine which is best for you.
Silicone Sealants
Silicone automotive sealants are among the most expensive on the market, but they’re also among the most durable. These heavy-duty sealants hold up exceptionally well against the elements, capable of withstanding even the most fierce wind, rain, and sun. An elastic-like structure enables these sealants to hold steady through the bumps of the road, making them a popular choice among automotive repairers and RV enthusiasts.
On the downside, silicone has a nasty habit of getting everywhere, so it’s a bit tricky to apply, despite the fact you only need one coat. It’s also more expensive than other sealant types and tends to get all gunky and dirty looking rather quickly.
Acrylic Sealants
Acrylic sealants are exceptionally affordable but take a long time to apply, making them a suitable option for cash strapped but time-rich RVers who are willing to fix their own roof. The liquid-like substance does a decent job of reflecting sunlight and sealing in cracks and gaps, although it isn’t as waterproof as other options.
If you live in a wet region or expect water to pool on the roof of your RV, then consider trying a different variety. Acrylic takes longer to apply as you’ll need to do a primer and then put on a second coat known as a ‘fabric reinforce.’
Urethane Sealants
Urethane is an excellent RV sealant for its superb weather-resistant properties that enable it to withstand the test of time in even the harshest American climates. The substance dries out to create a durable shell capable of taking a beating from physical objects like pine cones and hail. Of course, no sealant is bulletproof, so don’t expect a fresh layer of urethane to protect your roof from heavy impacts.
Urethane costs quite a bit more than other sealants and takes longer to apply because two coats are needed for the optimal finish. Nonetheless, many RVers believe it’s worth the extra time and money for the additional protection it affords.
RV Roof Sealant and Coating Consistency
RV sealants and coatings come in various consistencies, each of which serves a distinct purpose.
Putty
Silicone-based sealants have a putty-like consistency, best applied through a caulking gun. As the putty is thick and expensive, it’s only ever used to seal problematic areas—never to coat an entire roof.
Some silicone sealants are self-leveling, which means they’re only useful on a horizontal surface.
Liquid
RV coatings come in a liquid consistency, which you can paint over the entire surface area of your roof. The texture is kind of like a varnish, and the application process is somewhat similar as well.
Although a coating may help seal smaller cracks on your RV roof, they’re never as effective as dedicated sealants. Therefore, if you’ve got a giant gap that needs urgent attention, it’s best to use a silicone sealant before applying a protective coating to the entire roof.
Tape
As the name implies, sealant tapes are a tape-like product that appears almost identical to duct tape or the like. However, the product is different in that it’s specially designed to seal rubber surfaces together, making it a suitable solution for cracks in the flat areas of your RV roof.
Sealant tape isn’t useful in the non-flat areas, though, as water will always find a way to wiggle underneath. On the whole, it isn’t as effective as other sealant types either, so this “easy option” is best left for minor cracks and gaps.
Our favorite RV sealant tape is the EternaBond RSW-2-50 RoofSeal Sealant Tape.
RV Roofing Materials
The ideal RV sealant or coating depends on what your roof is made out of, which typically falls into one of four categories: EPDM rubber, TPO rubber, fiberglass, and aluminum.
EPDM Rubber
Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer is lightweight and cheap but doesn’t compare with other roof types in terms of durability. This kind of rubber simply isn’t strong enough to withstand heavy weight or constant impacts, which means you’ll need to repair it more frequently. If you’ve got an EPDM rubber roof on your RV, you might notice how it starts to appear a tad rusty and chalky over time as well.
TPO Rubber
A superior, albeit more expensive, type of rubber to use on an RV roof is TPO, which stands for Thermal Poly Olefin. This rubber is far more rigid than EPDM, so you generally won’t have to reseal it quite as often. The easiest way to identify TPO rubber is by its glossy sheen, which continues to shine for many years after leaving the factory floor.
Fiberglass
Although fiberglass RV roofs exist, they’re not nearly as common as either of the two main rubber varieties. Much like EPDM, fiberglass tends to oxidize and lose its aesthetic appeal over time. The good news is you can rapidly remedy the issue with a fresh new RV coating, which should instantly return its glossy shine.
Our favorite sealing and coating to use on fiberglass roofing is Dicor Fiberglass RV Roof Coating.
Aluminum
Aluminum is the least common of the four main RV roof types, mostly because this heavy material adds too much extra weight to the rig. The plus side is that aluminum is far more rigid than other roof types on the market, so you shouldn’t have to bother sealing it for many years to come.
Coating aluminum is always worthwhile, however, and our favorite product is Dicor RP-MRC-1 Elastomeric Coating.
Applying a Sealant and Coating to Your RV Roof

Although the process of applying a coating or sealant to your RV roof varies significantly depending on the particular product, there are several fundamental steps to follow.
How To Seal An RV Roof
Strip away the layer of sealant you plan to replace using a Stanley knife or similar tool.
Level the area using sandpaper
Clean the area using a sponge or cloth with denatured alcohol
Stick masking tape alongside the area you want to seal to avoid getting sealant where you shouldn’t
Apply the sealant slowly and carefully in an even layer
Allow the sealant to dry for 24 hours in a shady place protected from the wind and the rain (don’t drive until it’s dry)
Many sealants like silicone are easier to apply with a caulking gun, which you can purchase online or pick up from your local hardware store. If you plan to go down this route, opt for a sealant in a package that’s already compatible with a caulking gun.
If you’re still not confident, here’s a more in-depth article on how to seal your RV roof.
How To Coat an RV Roof
Follow these steps to coat your RV roof:
If necessary, seal up any cracks in your RV roof using a sealant
Use a stiff-bristled broom and warm water with detergent to clean your RV roof thoroughly
Allow your RV roof to fully dry, leaving it in the sun for many hours or even overnight if necessary
Apply your coating smoothly and evenly using a roller brush or paintbrush
Apply a second coat 24 hours later if necessary
Although RV coatings can help seal cracks and crevices, they’re not as powerful as a dedicated sealant. Therefore, to fix severe damage, it’s wise to use a sealant first and let it dry before coating the roof.
Remember to clean your roof exceptionally well, as an RV coating won’t stick to a dirty surface.
More information on how to coat your RV roof can be found in this article.
RV Sealant and Coating FAQ
If you’ve still got questions about RV sealants and coatings, then take a look at the following FAQ.
What Is the Best RV Sealant?
While the ideal sealant depends on several factors, including the roof type and the extent of the damage, our favorite overall is Sikaflex-221. This widely popular automotive sealant does a fantastic job of patching up a leaky roof, even though it may be a bit messy to apply.
How Often Should You Seal Your RV roof?
A leaky roof can cause extensive damage to your RV electrics, as well as rot away your wood and cause your metal to corrode. Because the bumps of the road make the joints in your roof unravel at a rapid pace, most veteran RVers will take the time to reseal their RV roof at least once per year.
Many RVers also opt to recoat their roof at the same time, reinforcing it to provide extra rain and sun protection for the travel season to come.
How Do You Remove Old Roof Sealant From RV?
You’ll need to get rid of the old sealant before applying a new batch. Use a Stanley knife to cut out the old adhesive, then sand it back vigorously with sandpaper.
Once it looks nice and level, remember to clean the surface with denatured alcohol and let that dry before applying the new sealant.
Can I Walk on My RV?
Most people can safely walk on most RV roofs, as these are typically rated to support the weight of the average human.
However, we still recommend you read the owner’s manual of your vehicle to double-check the load rating of your roof. The last thing you want to do is fall through and cause severe damage to both you and your rig.
Final Thoughts
There you have it—everything you could ever hope to know about RV roof sealants and coatings, and can do your own maintenance. Sure, you could pay a professional to do it for you. But these services typically cost north of a grand. Do it yourself, however, and you’ll be done within an afternoon and will have saved yourself a massive wad of cash (which you can spend on the road!).
Whether you’re looking to reseal your old, weathered sealant, or reinforce your roof with a fresh layer of protective RV coating, we’ve recommended the best options on the market for you.
After a small financial investment and a bit of good old fashioned elbow grease, you can relax safe in the knowledge your RV roof is now good to go for the season to come. If you’re looking to further prepare your RV before the big trip, you can take a look at our article about RV waxes too.
Happy trails, folks. More

Because they are typically the first modification anyone does when they want to improve their car’s performance, it’s no wonder drivers take their cold air intakes seriously. This passion runs deep, with many displaying their CAI brand as a decal in the window or the first line of their signature when participating in car discussions online.
This enthusiasm is also why cold air intakes are also one of the most hotly debated topics in the car community. Today, we’ll help you cut through all the noise and pick the best CAI for your vehicle.

Choosing the Right Intake
At AutoQuarterly, we want to make sure you get the most out of your car. Getting a cold air intake is a great first step to take if you want to learn about car performance or just become more comfortable with modifying your car in general.
There are tons of myths, misconceptions, and downright crazy claims surrounding them, though. We want to clear the air and present you with all the information you need to make a great decision. We’ll start with a straightforward guide for choosing one and a list of our recommendations. At the bottom, though, we’ll go straight into the science and mythology surrounding air intakes.
Choosing a CAI
Choosing an intake can be hard simply because there are tons and tons of options, and they all pretty much do exactly the same thing. An AEM intake with a pod filter is a pipe length with a filter on the end of fit, just like an Injen intake, and just like a K&N. Usually, the decision comes down to one of the following.
Brand and Street Cred
There are two main categories of intake: the big brands and the knockoffs. There’s nothing wrong with most knockoffs. They might be a little harder to install, but they are way less expensive than any of the major brands. Let’s face it, though. Having a big AEM logo staring you in the face when you pop the hood does feel good.
Included Accessories
The intakes on the market range from “everything included” to “a bunch of random parts in a box.” You have to decide how much DIY you want to do and what kind of accessories you want.
Fitment
Every car is different, so the intake that fits in one car probably won’t fit another. There are a few things that affect fitment with the CAIs. The biggest, most obvious one is the length and shape of the tubes. You need to get an intake for your car, or it won’t even fit under the hood.
There are a few other considerations, too, like the sensor holes and type of sensor attachments you need. Just make sure to get a system that fits your car; it’s effortless to double-check online.
Materials
There are a handful of different materials found on an intake. CAIs are made of rubber for fittings, aluminum or plastic for tubing, and oil or paper for the filter. Each has pros and cons; we’ll discuss them in depth down here. Basically: better, more expensive materials last longer.
Oh, and oiled filters have additional risks. We’ll talk about filters below, but just know that they need more maintenance than paper ones.
Cost
Everyone wants a full HKS engine intake upgrade. Very few people can afford it. Just be realistic about the cost. A cheap system will be lower quality than a more expensive one to a point, but you may be paying for the label with the higher cost systems.
Make Sure It’ll Fit Your Car
There are many really great intakes, but before we get to reviewing them, there’s something we need to stress.
Unfortunately, it’s impossible to say for certain that each entry will fit every vehicle. While most manufacturers will make a variety of different sizes and configurations for various cars, some might specialize in or only make a small number of styles.
In this review section, we will focus more on the broad strokes and ideas when discussing CAIs. Think of it more as a brand and idea guide, and less like a specific guide for your car. The best thing to do is search for your car’s make, model, and year plus cold air intake online. Then read about what other people are using, and then match it with the brand and style you are looking for.
On Amazon, it’s easy to set up your car in the garage menu and let the interface double check the fitment for you.

Top 10 Best Cold Air Intakes 2020
1. Best Overall Pick: K&N Cold Air Intake Kit

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Why we like it: There’s nothing not to like about K&N intake systems. They are a great value, make a kit for any vehicle, and are one of the biggest names in automotive.
Editor’s Rating:

About the Brand
K&N Engineering is probably the most well-known performance filter brand on earth. They are primarily known for pioneering the reusable, oil-based air filter technology, and are probably the most trusted brand for aftermarket intakes.
Unfortunately, their size and universal application lower their credibility in the performance scene. Since they can be found on anything from lawnmowers, to minivans, to dragsters, the label can mark you as a noob who only sticks to what’s safe. We don’t believe it’s terrible to stay with something tried and true, but the performance world is usually about pushing the envelope and not staying safe.
What You Get in the Box
The oil-based, reusable K&N filter is probably the most important part of the system. It’s what they are known for, after all. They use an HDPE tube instead of aluminum to keep costs down, and their kits include heat shields and gaskets to isolate the pod filter. The guards make sure you aren’t sucking in hot, polluted engine air.
One of the crucial things you get in the box that you don’t get from most other manufacturers is the 50-state approved sticker. Californians, you need one of those stickers, or your car will fail smog. Only a few other companies are authorized.
Quality and Fitment
K&N is top tier in terms of quality and fitment but is not the best. Yes, they are the world leaders, but they also sometimes get a little sloppy with tolerances in favor of keeping costs down. It’s still really, really good quality though. The issues only really arise during installation. You find out a screw hole doesn’t quite line up, or a sensor hole isn’t quite the right diameter. Usually, it’s a simple fix, and it far outshines cheap kits like the Million Parts intake, but it does leave some room for improvement.
Our Take
You can’t go wrong with a K&N. It may not be as prestigious as AEM in terms of sticker value, but no one would ever argue that it’s a bad investment.

Pros
K&N’s filters are some of the best
They probably make an intake for your car
Most are 50-state legal

Cons
Fitment is good, but sometimes has little annoying issues
Oil filters can cause problems for some models

2. Best Premium Pick: S&B Filters Cold Air Intake

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Why we like it: The S&B filter system is made of high-quality materials and will probably outlast the rest of your car.
Editor’s Rating:

About the Brand
Go to any off-road event. Doesn’t matter if it’s for side by sides, prerunners or crawlers; just go to a big event. There, nestled nicely next to the Optima Batteries stand, will be S&B. They specialize in trucks. It doesn’t matter if it’s a diesel, gas, or hybrid. They make a filter that’s perfect for running the Baja 500 or towing your buddy out of the mud.
They are expensive, they are found on expensive toys, and they look seriously impressive. No, really, the clear plastic cover for the airbox makes even the oldest, ugliest truck look high tech. It may not have K&N’s instant brand recognition, but you’ll get a knowing nod by anyone that builds off-road rigs.
What You Get in the Box
There’s a lot to say about the parts you get. The air filter is probably better than K&N’s intake filters, which is really saying a lot. The parts and fittings are made of high-quality silicone so that they will last forever. The filter box keeps all the garbage out, making it one of the best units to protect your engine.
It also has this super cool clear cover. You get the exposed pod filter look and convenience without it actually being exposed to mud and gunk.
Quality and Fitment
Like the other more expensive, top-shelf systems, the S&B just needs to be snapped in place. Since they don’t manufacture the system for very many vehicles, they can afford to keep all the factory sensor locations. The stock locations make it 50-state legal and make it incredibly easy to install.
As for quality, there’s nothing higher. Like we pointed out previously, it uses premium silicone instead of rubber for fittings, which means it won’t crack over time. The filters are some of the best on the market, and the injection-molded plastic is less susceptible to bends and damage than the thin aluminum of other products.
Our Take
If you are serious about off-road, your choices probably come down to either the S&B or the Airaid kit. The Airaid is new and cool, but the S&B will protect your motor better. Out in the dunes or jungles, it doesn’t matter how good your motor is if you clog the filter with debris, and that puts the S&B on top.

Pros
Really high quality
Looks amazing
50-state Legal

Cons
Expensive
Only offer kits for trucks and SUVs

3. Best Simple Kit: Spectre Performance Intake Kit

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Why we like it: The Spectre Performance is less expensive than the K&N, but still top-notch in quality and design.
Editor’s Rating:

About the Brand
Spectre is not a big brand. It’s not really a brand you will see advertised on the windshield; no one will brag that they just got a new Spectre performance intake.
You will see them at track days and autocrosses, though. You’ll see them in the cars that are built to go without regard to show. The beat-up Miata that catches you off guard when the blowoff valve snorts in your direction has one, and the old CRX that just took away your poll position has one. Get the AEM if you need the yellow sticker. Get the Spectre if you like telling people that Spectre built the first gas-powered car to go over 400mph.
What You Get in the Box
Spectre intakes are meant to just be bare bones units, so you don’t get a whole lot of customization options. It’s an oiled filter, but they are cheaper, and you will probably just buy a new one instead of cleaning and re-oiling. The aluminum tube is on the thin side, but it’s polished and looks good.
The heatshield isn’t insulated, so it won’t work as good as other units. They do make the heatshields fit easily into your engine compartment. You won’t have to fight a universal fit shield like the Million Parts deal.
Quality and Fitment
The quality is good for the price, and the fitment is fine as long as you don’t expect too much. The Spectre is high on our list compared to other cheap offerings because of the adaptability. They are such a simple unit that you can configure them to fit in just about any condition.
The place where things can fall apart is sensor installation. Which is to say that Spectre does not offer any variation for sensor type in their products. You have to either eliminate the sensor or use stock components. That means no smog, and you’ll have to fight with newer cars.
Our Take
If looks and brand don’t matter, but you still need a good quality filter, then Spectre has you covered. Unless you have to pass smog, then it’s probably better to pay the extra money on a different brand like K&N.

Pros
Clean and simple
Very adaptable design
Inexpensive for the quality

Cons
Not 50-state legal
No dedicated sensor install points

4. Best for Modern Muscle Cars: BBK Intake

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Why we like it: The BBK CAI is 50-state legal, so you can pass smog in California. That puts it in a pretty exclusive club.
Editor’s Rating:

About the Brand
BBK is synonymous with Mustang Power. They build a lot of parts that make Ford Mustangs go faster, and they have since the 80s. If you have ever seen a Fox Body destroying the competition at the drags, chances are there’s a big blue BBK stamp in at least four places under the hood.
Recently they have branched out and created beautiful intakes for Camaros and Challengers too. Well, those and Raptors, but going from one big Ford V8 to another isn’t exactly groundbreaking. If you have an American V8, wearing the BBK badge is a sign that you speak the power language.
What You Get in the Box
Most of their kits contain a polished metal tube, a polished metal heatshield, and an oversized oiled filter. There’s nothing remarkable about the bits and pieces that come in the BBK kits. It’ll be a recurring theme as we talk about it. BBK only makes a handful of different intakes, so each kit is trimmed down and meant for the motor they are going to be attached to.
The polished heat shield is a little unique and goes really well with the polished tubing. BBK also chose blue as their color, probably to stand out against K&N’s dominating red and orange, so you are in luck if you like blue.
Quality and Fitment
The quality and fit are fantastic. The benefit to the BBK philosophy of only building parts for big American motors means that they have a lot of experience with making things that fit big American motors. The polished aluminum piping is sturdy, the couplers have grooves that hold the clamps in place, and it comes with its own bolts to replace the off-color stock ones.
Those of you who have ever tried to clamp a pipe in place with a hose clamp that’s sliding all over the place will know just how much little design elements can remove the frustration out of an install.
Their biggest strength is also where you find their biggest letdown. If you have a 2009 Mustang GT, the fit is amazing. Install it, the sensors just line right up, it’s legal in California, everything will be perfect. If you own a WRX? You are just out of luck. BBK does not make any universal kit pieces, and they do not care about imported sports cars. Stick with AEM.
Our Take
It costs less than the K&N equivalent, you get a great horsepower bump, and you can’t beat the polished metal look. If they made kits for more models, it would be in the running for the best cold air on the market. They don’t, though, so they will have to settle for being a really good product that won’t be the right choice for a lot of people.

Pros
Offers some of the best performance for the money
BBK is a very well known, established brand
50-state legal

Cons
Expensive
Really only available for modern American V8s.

5. Best Budget Pick: Million Parts Air Intake System

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Why we like it: The Million Parts system is very inexpensive, and it works. That makes it a perfect entry level part.
Editor’s Rating:

About the Brand
Million Parts is a lesser known Chinese manufacturer. There’s nothing wrong with that; it’s not the curse it used to be. It’s just, well, you’d never tell people what it is if you got it. You might brag about how little you paid for it, but we guarantee that you won’t remember who the manufacturer was after a year. In fact, you’d probably have trouble finding it again because they will have changed names.
In the industry, we’d call the entire lot of generic parts “eBay” parts because of how prevalent these random brands are on the site. It doesn’t matter what the brand actually is; it’s just an eBay intake. They go great with eBay turbos and eBay mufflers.
Again, they work, and they are great for cheap builds. It’s not like it won’t suck in air or damage your engine or anything. Just don’t lie about what it is when asked. You’ll get more cred owning up to it than is worth risking in a lie.
What You Get in the Box
There will be a bunch of fittings, tubes, a decent filter, and a heat shield in the kit. It’s something you’ll find with any cheaper kit. To keep costs down, the manufacturer will make many elbows, pre-bent tubes, and couplers to be used across any platform. Usually, even the heat shield is just a simple bent piece that can fit in a lot of different cars.
The one thing that sets the Million Parts kit apart is the filter. These inexpensive kits can have really bad filters, to the point where to get the most out of a kit, you should just buy a cheaper K&N filter to stuff on the end. The Million Parts paper filter is not bad; you don’t have to worry about it letting a bunch of dirt through. Plus, you get to choose the color.
Quality and Fitment
Quality is just something you won’t find with these types of kits. The aluminum pipes are super thin and prone to scratching, the hose clamps that hold the couplers together are difficult to work with. Chances are that even though you ordered the right kit for your car, you will have to fight with the installation to get it to fit right.
You also are not going to get any sensor variety or 50-state legality. Most of the time, when installing a kit like this, you’ll end up keeping parts of the stock air intake. That’s not unique to cheap parts; AEM is the same way. It’s just that unlike, say, the S&B intake, it’s not a direct drop-in replacement for the entire system.
Our Take
We get it. We call cold air intakes an entry-level modification, something that is for beginners. However, even the inexpensive quality ones are still hundreds of dollars. That puts them out of reach for people like students or people just barely getting into automobiles.
The good news is that generic parts are not as bad they were in the past. The Million Parts intake is good enough to look the part, sound the part, and introduce someone to car modification who doesn’t want to drop over $100 on a length of aluminum pipe.

Pros
Less expensive than the big brand names
Can be used in a lot of motors
Included filter is surprisingly good

Cons
Couplers are low quality
Not legal everywhere due to lack of sensor space

6. Best Compatability: Injen Technologies Intake Systems

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Why we like it: Injen’s polished, high flow tubings and low restriction filters are the best things you can get if power is your only concern.
Editor’s Rating:

About the Brand
Injen was the company that started the polished tubing craze in the 90s. Injen and AEM dominated the tuner market, and Injen grabbed a lot of the Euro market too. You can still see their influence anytime you see a drift build on IG; they invented that style.
Nowadays, in addition to being worthy of mentioning in your forum signature, they also pride themselves on making performance parts for any car. 1992 MR2? They have it. 2015 Infiniti Q50? They have that too. They are a lot like the high-tech cousin to K&N. If K&N is the most popular kid in school, Injen is the kid everyone comes to when they need help with their math homework.
What You Get in the Box
The linked product is a short ram intake. We will discuss the specific different types here, but depending on your car’s make and model, it may not be short. The bits and pieces you get when you order any Injen intake are all pretty much the same, though. It will include a bent piece of polished aluminum tubing and a filter.
The assumption with high-end performance-oriented upgrades like the Injen or AEM is that you will source the other parts. If you want an air filter box or a heatshield, you will have to find it yourself. In the modding scene, it’s really common for every part to be separate so that you can find custom parts for your build. Pre-built kits usually won’t work since you will probably have modified the features they are meant to attach to.
Quality and Fitment
The quality is right on par with the other big players like BBK. It’s honestly better than K&N; the polished pipes bring a durability level that molded plastic pipes can’t achieve.
The quality and simplicity also lead to really easy installs. There’s just not much to do, and the parts are so high quality that you don’t have to think very hard to attach it to your motor. Just understand that it’s not a complete system like the Airad. It won’t have a MAP sensor hookup because they expect you to be modifying your car and may not even have the sensors in the stock locations.
Our Take
Injen or AEM. That’s probably where you are, and we’ll be honest, it’s a really, really tough decision. They are both great companies that make great products for an astounding range of different makes and models. The one thing that makes the Injen stand out is the ease of installation. Injen just focuses a bit more on fitment, not adaptability as AEM does.

Pros
Injen makes an intake for every car
Parts are good quality
Easy install for most models

Cons
Not 50-state legal
No heat shield

7. Best for Modified Motors: AEM Cold Air Intake

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Why we like it: AEM is one of the industry standards when it comes to tuning. The California company does tons of testing so that you can get the most performance possible.
Editor’s Rating:

About the Brand
Even if you only know about performance cars from seeing them on screen, you know AEM. Their stickers are plastered all over the cars in Fast and Furious right alongside other tuner focused companies like Sparco, Toyo, and HKS. That’s because the original Fast and Furious cars were actually enthusiast cars that the studio rented for the close-ups, and tuning enthusiasts since the 80s have relied on AEM for parts.
Now their reputation for building adaptive kits for high-performance motors is legendary. If you are swapping in a 2JZ, they sell an intake kit for it. We pointed out earlier that K&N is pretty good at making something for everyone, but they still hang out in the realm of normalcy. AEM goes full-on nuts with entire pre-bent tubing kits and silicone couplers that can be made to adapt to even the most insane engine builds.
The downside is that the pure performance focus makes them unfriendly towards beginners. Other companies give you a nice set of instructions with big pictures. AEM gives you a box of parts and gets frustrated if you need help figuring out how to install them.
What You Get in the Box
The particular linked product is for a WRX, one of the most modified cars on earth, and it really demonstrates what AEM will give you in a kit. It’s got a crazy bent tube with a bunch of holes and brackets, a gasketed dust shield, and a really nice dry paper filter.
All of that is geared towards modifying the car for power. The paper element filter is more likely to work in any configuration. The bent pipe relocates the factory pickup out of the way and cleans up the engine space, making it easier to work on. The clamps are quick on and off style clamps because AEM knows you’ll be pulling it off to work on things frequently.
Quality and Fitment
The quality is top of the line, which is what you’d expect for what can be the most expensive intake on our list. We say it can be because, on average, the S&B intakes top out the cost chart. However, if you are piecing together a custom intake using AEM parts, it can easily reach 500+ dollars.
The ability to piece together anything is their biggest selling point, though. They sell parts with and without sensor inputs. They sell their own sensors if you don’t want to use the factory ones, and they sell their own controllers so you can override the stupid check engine light that will flash at you if you unplug the factory sensors.
You lose out on an easy install. There’s nothing easy about having to work out your entire build ahead of time and double-check all your routing options before ordering.
Oh, and despite the ability to include all the sensors, AEM intakes are not 50-state legal. They won’t even ship through Amazon to California. Just order from somewhere else and claim it’s for off-highway if you live in a place that Amazon refuses to ship to.
Our Take
You don’t need our take. If you know who AEM is and know what they do, you already know if you are going to pick them over the others. In a very real way, the sticker is worth the cost. Your car makes a statement, and that sticker states, “enjoy staring at my tail lights.”

Pros
AEM is the gold standard for tuner performance
Fits anything. Even if they don’t make a specific intake for your car, they sell parts to DIY it
Filters are top-notch

Cons
Not 50-state legal
Not good for beginners

8. Easiest Installation: Airaid Intake System

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Why we like it: Airaid uses precision molding to make low-restriction tubing that conforms to all sorts of unusual shapes and sizes. That makes them fit as good as a factory part.
Editor’s Rating:

About the Brand
Airaid is the newest player on the block. Where most of these companies were around in the 80s, or even earlier if you are K&N, Airaid was barely a company in the late 90s and wasn’t really a player on the market until the 2010s.
What they’ve done is try to take on the S&B and BBK market, building mostly systems for off-road and muscle. They are becoming really well known in Jeep circles, and are gaining popularity all over the place for their focus on simple, easy to install upgrades.
What You Get in the Box
When you order an Airaid kit, you get a molded plastic part that looks like it was made by your car’s manufacturer. The black plastic fits right in with the rest of the motor. The airbox looks like a factory airbox that’s just designed better, and the gasketing will blend right in with the rest of the modern compact motor.
You can choose paper or oil filters; both are of good quality. What you can’t get is the 50-state legal sticker. You can get extra pieces to make them lawful, and some kits do include those parts, but the standard kits won’t include that all-important sticker.
Quality and Fitment
The quality is good. The filter isn’t as good as others, but it will keep the dirt out. If you really want ultra-high quality, grab the S&B intake instead.
Airaid instead focuses on easy installation. They just drop in. You won’t find a more straightforward modification to install. The molded plastic is lightweight, so it’s even easy to position and clamp down.
They are still a new company too. Right now, they really only make parts for large displacement motors or off-road-focused vehicles. Their product line is constantly expanding, and they will likely achieve 50-state legal status in the near future.
Our Take
It’s always exciting to see a fresh company take on the giants with new innovations, and that’s what Airaid feels like. They aren’t top tier yet; they need to get that California stamp of approval before they can take all the number one spots. You definitely won’t be disappointed with them, though.

Pros
Factory fitment, even in tight engine bays
Air-box helps maximize performance without relocating stock placement
Molded intake tubes are lightweight and easy to work with

Cons
Only 50-state legal with additional parts
Only fits newer Trucks and SUVs, and the occasional V8 muscle car

9. Best Universal System: K&N Universal Air Intake System

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Why we like it: It doesn’t matter what you drive; you can route this intake to suck cold air in with this K&N.
Editor’s Rating:

About the Brand
We already covered one K&N CAI kit here. but if you really want to see how into the whole “we dominate the market” thing they are, check this product out. It wasn’t enough that they made an intake system for just about every vehicle, including motorcycles. They had to make something that’s just a tube you can attach to any motor ever.
Look, we understand if you don’t want to like K&N. They are everywhere, and their commercials play way too frequently. However, you have to respect a company that is willing to look at their incredibly impressive lineup and say, “Yeah, but what about that one guy over there? We don’t make a product specifically for him, let’s remedy that.”
What You Get in the Box
A funny-looking rubber hose and a pod that looks like it came off a spaceship. Inside the funny pod is one of K&N’s famous oiled filters. The big thing that separates this setup from everything else is the flexible rubber hose. Unlike rigid metal or plastic intakes, you can route the intake wherever you want.
The downside to the UFO pod is that it’s more restrictive, and the long hose adds in even more restriction. It’s not really a product for high-performance applications. It’s more a way to get a K&N lifetime filter and clean intake onto anything.
Quality and Fitment
The quality is fine, but you have to work everything out to install it. There are no mounting holes; you need to work that out yourself. There are no sensor holes; you’ll have to figure out how to install those yourself, and so on and so forth. That’s the downside to a universal product. Being universal means that they can’t predict where any part needs to be, so they just don’t bother.
It is really cool that you can throw a low restriction K&N filter on anything, though. We’ve even seen them on old tractors. The price might seem steep for that, but no one makes stock replacement parts for old or unique machines anymore. With the lifetime filter and universal fit, this thing can quickly become a lifesaver.
Our Take
Is it the greatest thing ever? No, but you can attach it to a boat if you want to. It’s got their instantly recognizable orange band black logo, it uses oiled lifetime filters, and it’s in a metal housing. What more could you want?

Pros
Fits a wide range of applications
K&N filters are among the best
Will last a long time

Cons
Can be hard to install
You won’t notice much performance gain

10. Best Bare Bones: Partol 3” Universal Intake

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Why we like it: Sometimes, you need to buy something cheap so you know why you should have bought something expensive. The Partol at least looks really good.
Editor’s Rating:

About the Brand
Partol doesn’t mean anything. Scroll down to the similar products section on their sales page, and you’ll see the exact same unit for about ten different names. It’s just like the Million Parts intake, but somehow even less of a real brand. It takes a certain talent to be a knock off of a knock off.
Just like we said before, you’d never brag about having a strange, brandless eBay intake. What they are is a good place to start. You buy one, it looks good, you start learning about modifications, and then you ditch it in favor of an Injen.
On the note of looking good, we want to draw attention to that. Even though Million Parts and Partol are just brandless, random intakes, they actually look good. Partol, in particular, does a great job with fake carbon fiber; they look impressive even if they aren’t.
What You Get in the Box
The kits come with tiny fake carbon fiber or blue aluminum tubing, a filter, a single coupler, and a little filter. It’s not great or anything. The tiny filter element is probably more restrictive than your stock air intake, and you probably won’t be sucking up cold air because the tube will be too short.
It also comes with a breather tube, which most companies don’t include. It feels like they know that their product isn’t that good, so they give you a length of rubber hose as a consolation prize. But hey, it’s like $30 bucks. You can’t expect it to compete with a $200 Injen intake.
Quality and Fitment
The quality is bad, and the fitment is meh. Sorry, we know you’ve probably seen the same thing said about cheap intakes everywhere you have gone to try and validate buying one. They are “universal” in that you can force it onto most engines, but you will get a check engine light blinking at you because there are no sensor holes. It’s easy to mount because it doesn’t have any proper mounting.
Our Take
We know there’s a lot of people itching to buy the cheap, bottom of the barrel products just to see if they really are that bad. The truth is, they aren’t that bad. They just aren’t good, and you will be left wanting more out of a product. The Spectre intake is not that much more expensive and will actually add throttle response to your car’s driving characteristics. The Partol will just add a bit of noise.

Pros
Really cheap
Looks pretty cool
Will make your car louder, and isn’t that all that really matters?

Cons
Parts are low quality
Not 50-state legal. Might cause you to fail inspection in up to 6 states, actually, since it will probably cause leaks.

An In-Depth Look at Cold Air Intakes
We said above that we’d get into the science and details, so let’s get into it. Just tread carefully; many internet arguments have been started over these devices.
What Is a Cold Air Intake?
In short, your factory airbox is really restrictive. It’s a mess of plastic boxes and tubes because the people who built your car designed it to be cheap, comfortable, and foolproof. A cold air intake replaces the mess of plastic with sleek tubes and pod filters, so there is a lot less restriction. Good cold air intakes also relocate the pickup to a place that will suck in cooler, denser air for better power. In theory, we’ll discuss that a lot more in the bottom section here.
The Pros and Cons of Cold Air Intakes
Before you jump into buying one for your car, you should know the potential downsides. In many cases, they don’t outweigh the benefits, especially if you plan on doing more modifications down the road. but to make a good decision, you should know both sides of the equation.
Pros
Here’s the good. You’ll notice we don’t include fuel economy on this list; we’ll address that in the section below.
Looks
Stock air boxes are a mess of plastic and rubber. Most CAI intakes are clean, sleek pieces of hardware with big, colored filters. Even sort of stock looking devices like the one S&B produces really clean up the engine bay and make the whole compartment look better.
The intake is one of the first things people notice when you look at a motor. Even if you know nothing about engines, you know that the way it pulls in air translates to how much power you make. The blower-style intake on Mad Max’s interceptor, the big turbos that every video game focuses on, and the big pod filters that sit on top of every single modified engine on every single auto magazine cover or movie poster. No matter how you slice it, adding a CAI can make your car’s motor look good.
Sound
Factory air intakes are meant to help silence your motor. The average person doesn’t want to hear their engine; they like quiet, sealed cabins. That can be really boring, though. If you are trying to get better performance out of your engine, you probably want it to sound like it’s performing better.
A CAI gets rid of all the insulation and sound stifling rubber tubes so that you can hear the air being sucked in and turned into torque. Especially with simpler units like the Spectre CAI that just have nothing to deaden the sound.
Power
“The box claims 10hp!” That meme was born from the marketing of pod filters on cold air systems. It’s not true. At least, not as a blanket statement. It’s been discussed on YouTube by MCM, Engineering Explained, Donut, and countless others, so if you want to see the debate in action watch, any of them.
The truth is that you may notice some performance gain, but mostly in the form of top-end HP or minor increases in acceleration from improved throttle response. Video games and parts store clerks would have you believe it leads to massive power gains, but testing over and over again has just proven that it’s marginal.
Again, just watch any of the previously linked videos. Mighty Car Mods actually has a whole series testing intakes on turbocharged cars as well as cars with very weak motors.
Cons
CAIs are awesome, but there are downsides. Not enough to outweigh the good parts, especially if you are here and already know you want one, but they should be discussed.
Cost
A CAI costs a lot more than a stock system. Not just because you are spending extra money on the intake itself, but the filters are more expensive and need to be replaced more often. Unless you get a reusable filter, but those are much more expensive upfront. We go into oiled filters here in the myth section.
Risk
Risk comes in two flavors: risk to your engine from debris and risk to your engine from incompatible intakes. Except for the more off-road oriented filters like the Airaid kit, aftermarket intakes that relocate the filter make them more susceptible to debris.
A cold air intake that moves the filter down into the cold under-car air is especially susceptible to sucking up water from puddles. If water gets into your motor, your motor will hydro lock and stop functioning.
The other issue that can arise if you throw on a filter and don’t set it upright. Sensors that run your car rely on information from the air to determine how much fuel to add per rotation. That’s really simplified, but the short of it is that if you don’t install the sensors correctly, your car will run poorly. The longer your car runs poorly, the more damage to the engine you can cause.
Legality

Some states have smog laws that will prevent you from passing inspection if you modify the intake. California is the most notorious one. The state is pretty much a constant thorn in every modding scene; it makes the fact that the Fast and Furious films take place in LA hilarious.
That’s why we tried hard to point out which intakes were 50-state legal and which ones weren’t. Companies like K&N had to spend a lot of money, and they had to do a lot of paperwork to get that stamp.
Myths
The myths surrounding cold air intakes are legendary and spark flame wars across the entire world wide web. We don’t want to get into that; we just want to dispel some of the more prevalent ones.
Myth #1: Your Factory Air Intake is Garbage
This is just one of those things that everyone sort of believes, but isn’t really rooted in reality. Your factory airbox is meant to be a compromise between a lot of things, like cost and ease of changing the filter. That doesn’t make it bad. In fact, most cars have engineered air intake boxes that already are cold air intakes. Plus, they include cool features like a Helmholtz resonator that helps pull in more air. You can read about them here; they are pretty awesome.
The truth is that if you are trying to convince yourself to get a new CAI, don’t go blaming the engineers that spent years developing the airbox in your car for making a bad intake. They did a fine job; just admit that you want your car to look and sound better.
Myth #2: You’ll Get Better Gas Mileage
This ties into the previous myth. It turns out engineers who get paid hundreds of thousands of dollars to make your car efficient are pretty good at it. In the early days of heavily restrictive air boxes, it was true that switching to a more open intake would improve efficiency, but that hasn’t been true in over 40 years. Sorry, we know the box at the parts store says that it totally will improve your fuel economy, but chances are it won’t.
Myth #3: Oiled Filters Are the Best Filters
K&N’s biggest claim to fame is its oiled air filters. They claim they last a lifetime and offer better airflow than any paper filter. Most performance intakes are available with oiled filters for that reason, even cheaper ones like the Spectre intake on our list.
It’s not totally true. First, unless you clean them fairly often, oiled filters can be more restrictive than paper filters. Oiled filters get dirtier faster than paper filters, and keeping a filter clean is the most important thing to do if you want good airflow.
Second, the oil can actually separate from the filter and then gunk up sensors and other things inside your engine. That’s because most people use too much oil when they clean them. Companies like S&P sell these intakes with filters pre-oiled to avoid that mistake, but eventually, you will have to wash and re-oil it yourself. That is when the danger comes in.
They do work great and save money over your car’s lifetime if you regularly service them. The average person doesn’t regularly service their air cleaner, which means the average person probably won’t see that benefit. Honestly, the average person is probably better off with a paper element filter that they replace more often.
Myth #4: It’s Not Really Illegal
Myth 4 is a weird one that you’ll see if you hang out on Facebook car groups. You’ll get someone who claims to know a guy who had a full intake kit on his Civic Si and totally got it smogged at a gas station in San Diego. Therefore it’s not something they really care about.
That is false. There are ways to smog a car in California or other areas that require inspection that are not legal. That doesn’t magically make it legal to install a modification to a piece of emissions equipment. You can get a ticket for it. You can fail smog and have your car labeled a gross polluter, and you can incur extra fines if your car is impounded because it won’t be considered road legal.
If you are hell-bent on installing a non-compliant CAI in California, at least keep your stock intake for when you get told to pull off the aftermarket one or get fined.
Short Ram, Ram Air, and Warm Air
These terms get confused a lot, especially when an intake can be all 3. We’ll keep it brief since the type of engine and type of car will dictate the shape more than your wants will.
A ram air intake is designed to funnel more air into your motor. 80s Camaros were famous for coming from the factory with ram air snorkels. Engineered cold air intakes like the Airaid intake we mention incorporate elements of a ram air system into their design.
A short ram intake is the same as a ram air, just short. The idea is that the air will have less distance to travel and can therefore make it into your engine with greater efficiency. It’s something that’s not totally true, there are drawbacks to the short design that can outweigh the advantage of a less restrictive pipeline. You can read about the pros and cons on this website; they do a good write up of intake knowledge in general.
Warm air intakes are just what they suggest. Older motors have a carburetor that sits on top of the engine. The air filter sits directly on top of the carb. Unfortunately, that means that the air going into the motor was heated by the engine.
Engines are just air pumps; the more air you can get into them, the better they run. Hot air is less dense than cold air, so you want cold air for performance. As we mentioned above in the myths section, most modern cars already have a snorkel for drawing in cold air instead of heated engine air. Some, mostly cheaper, cold air intakes can become warm air intakes if installed incorrectly. The Partol intake we mention on our list is especially susceptible. It’s hard to get that tiny pipe far enough away from the motor to suck in cold air.
Installing a Cold Air Intake
Each intake is a little different, but there are some universal steps. Always make sure to check the instructions, and if you are stuck, all the major manufacturers have helplines. Injen and S&P, especially, you can call them any time and get help.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal. That’s just something you always do whenever you work on a motor.
Remove the factory air box cover and factory filter.
Carefully disconnect and remove the sensors. Some cars use a ring style sensor that comes out as a unit, some just have a length of hose going to a little black box. If you don’t know what the sensor looks like, double-check by looking it up online.
Remove the rest of the factory air intake. The factory intake ends at a throttle body on some cars, and the entire intake will be really short. Others have miles of rubber hose.
Install the couplers for the new intake and mock it up. It’s easier to know what to do if you do a dry run and make sure there won’t be any problems during the install.
Make any adjustments necessary. Sometimes there will be things in the way that you have to remove and relocate.
Install the new intake.
Install the sensors into the new intake.
Connect the battery back up, and you’re good to go.
Let Your Engine Breathe
Hopefully, none of the myth talk or convoluted terms scared you away. Buying and installing a CAI is a rewarding thing to do and can help you connect with your car. That alone is worth it, even if it won’t add 100 horsepower and 20 mpg like the video game says it will. More