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    Tested: 1974 Porsche 911 vs. 911S Targa, 911S Carrera

    From the February 1974 issue of Car and Driver.
    The tachometer needle is closing in on the fourth gear redline. The speedometer indicates 105 mph. Bobby Allison is feeling the Porsche 911 into the wide, banked Turn One of Pocono’s short road course. He has driven this section of the tri-oval dozens, maybe tens of dozens, of times before, always in a stock car . . . and always in the other direction. But that doesn’t matter. Now he is turning right instead of left.

    Defining the Porsche 911: New vs. Old

    Tested:1969 Porsche 912 vs. 911T Targa, 911E, 911S

    Tested: 1984 Porsche 911 Carrera

    “You could really hang up your spare parts in this corner if something went wrong.”
    At this speed, the Porsche is toeing an awkward threshold. Aerodynamic forces have lifted its front enough to make the steering light and vague, yet very twitchy. The rear has lifted too and the tires are light enough to want to break out into a drift.
    “I can feel it trying to hang but it can’t quite do it.”

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    CHUCK BOONE

    Each time the tail comes loose, Alli­son catches it with a microscopic correction of the steering and an adjustment of his foot on the gas. But almost as soon as it’s caught, the rear comes unstuck again. And each time it does, the on­rushing boiler-plate wall seems to click into even sharper focus.
    “It’s telling me to expect something bad, it doesn’t say how bad. It’s not real­ly a strain at this speed . . . we might even be able to run right to the mat in a few laps . . . but I just know better than to crowd it too soon. Porsches are quite a bit different from anything else I’ve driven . . . except maybe a Volkswagen and I’ve only driven VWs a minimum number of times.”
    Bobby Allison, successful driver and equally successful race car builder, feels no reverence toward the name Porsche. Which makes him the perfect driver to test the 1974 line-up of 2.7-liter Porsch­es. It’s easy to find someone who has raced Porsches successfully, someone with a factory deal . . . or someone try­ing to carve out a factory deal . . . who will be more than happy to help out on a test such as this. And you’ll get a glow­ing report. But Allison is non-aligned. With him, the chips fall where they may. And he points out exactly where that might be in a precise, deep, gentle drawl that does not leave room for misinterpre­tation. To be sure, Bobby Allison is a stock car driver, and, with more than for­ty NASCAR wins, an exceedingly com­petent one. But he is much too diverse to be categorized in that narrow pigeon hole. He has also won on road courses—Riverside this past summer to name a recent one—and driven open-wheelers for Roger Penske at Indy. He has even raced Porsches, at the Lime Rock Trans-Am last season and most recently as one of the select field of 12 at the International Race of Champions at Riv­erside just before this test. In fact, he even bought a new 911T to drive on the street in preparation for the IROC.

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    CHUCK BOONE

    Like many of today’s best drivers, Alli­son turns out to be more than just a driv­er. He is also a car builder. His shop in Hueyton, Alabama turns out parts and completed stock cars, as many as a hundred a year, for serious racers. So Bobby Allison knows about automobiles from both sides of the steering wheel. With credentials such as these, Allison’s assignment for Car and Driver was to probe the performance and personality of Porsche’s newest collection of road cars as represented by three models: a 911, a 911S Targa and a Carrera, $42,940 worth of rear-engine machinery.
    Porsche’s model line-up has under­gone a substantial overhaul. The T and E models are gone. At the bottom of the new heap is the no-suffix 911 which lists for $9950 POE East Coast, plus every­thing. Up from there is the 911S. And that, in turn, is topped by the Carrera at $13,575, at that price as naked as the Venus de Milo.
    There is bound to be confusion over the Carrera. You’re probably thinking—or at least hoping—that it has much in common with the Carrera RSRs that have been mowing down the opposition around the world in GT racing and that made up the field for the IROC. It doesn’t. It’s a 911S overlayed with a few of the RSR’s accoutrements: Carrera side stripes, the upturned rear deck spoiler (a “mandatory option” at $285), slightly flared rear fenders and wider (seven inches compared to six in front) rear wheels mounted with appropriately fatter tires.
    This is in bold contrast to the Europe­an Carrera, known as the RS, which is strictly a stripped homologation special. It is very light—just under 2000 lbs. dry—with a high compression engine and is strictly verboten on public roads here because of smog and safety laws. Upon special order, the factory will con­vert the RS into the RSR, which is a pure racing car, the kind that ran in the IROC. These cars have 3.0-liter engines that produce 330 hp (DIN) at 8000 rpm, fiber­glass bumpers and widely flared fend­ers, special suspensions, brakes from the 917, wide wheels (9.0-inch in front, 12.0-inch in back) and all the racing equipment you need, right down to a 6-point seat belt, roll bar and on-board fire extinguisher. The RS and RSR have about the same relationship to the U.S.-market Carrera that Bobby Allison’s number 12 Chevelle has to the one you’ll find covered with shipping wax in your local Chevy dealer’s lot.
    All of the new Porsches have 2.7-liter 6-cylinder engines, big-bore versions of the 2.4-liter powerplant introduced in 1972. They also have a new fuel injec­tion system from Bosch known as the K-Jetronic, a continuous flow type with nozzles directed at the underside of the intake valves. It determines fuel flow by measuring the quantity of intake air, the same principle as the original Rochester device introduced on 1957 Corvettes.

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    CHUCK BOONE

    For 1974, the engines come in only two stages of tune. The regular 911 has what is basically the old “T” engine, but with 300cc additional displacement. It has an 8.0-to-1 compression ratio and is rated at 143 hp (net) at 5700 rpm. The S and the Carrera share a similarly en­larged “S” engine. It has a higher (8.5-to-1) compression ratio, larger intake ports and a cam with more lift and duration on the intake lobes. It is rated at 167 hp (net) at 5800 rpm. Though, in com­parison to the old T and S, quarter-mile acceleration of the new models is virtu­ally unchanged, the new engines are clearly less fussy to drive. The increased displacement and less overlap in the cams (for emission control) has made them both highly tractable. The S still has a noticeable rise in the torque curve as you approach 3500 rpm, but even it will slug through traffic without trauma. In past models, we felt the output curve of the S was too peaky for U.S. driving conditions and, in fact, the E was quick­er at speeds below 100 mph. But the new S is at least as flexible as the old E and we no longer have reservations about it. To compliment the two larger engines, fourth and fifth gear ratios in the 5-speed transmission have been slightly changed—lengthened for quieter cruising and better fuel economy.
    The new 911s have undergone other changes to make them more compatible with Uncle Sam’s requirements. The new bumpers with wide aluminum face bars add 5.0 inches to overall length. For the American market they are mounted on hydraulic shock absorbers (another “mandatory” option at $135) so that they will be self-restoring after a low-speed crash. Surprisingly, this has been done without adding much weight. The new models are only about 50 lbs. heavier than their predecessors. And at least half of that can be charged off to the enlarged fuel tank (21 gallons, up from 16.4).

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    CHUCK BOONE

    There are other changes beneath the surface and some of them do not seem like progress. To help weight distribution, Porsche has for years fitted the 911 with two small batteries, one on each side just forward of the front wheels. This year, there is just one, a large one, located at the left front. In 1972 the dry sump oil tank was moved forward of the right rear wheel, also to improve weight distribution. A year later it was moved back behind the axle into the engine compartment. The front anti-sway bar has also been redesigned for 1974 to a less costly, but also less efficient, arrangement.
    All of these moves give the appear­ance of being cost reductions . . . ex­cept that you’d never know it by the price, which has gone up about $2500 in two years with the blame being laid on fluctuations in the international money market and inflation in Germany. Per­haps some of the changes in weight dis­tribution are made up for by the new, cast light-alloy semi-trailing arms in the rear that replace the previous steel suspension components. On the other hand, perhaps small differences in weight distribution make very little differ­ence. That’s why we went to Pocono. To find out. And that’s why we summoned Bobby Allison, as a non-aligned driver, to give us an impartial view.
    It is a tribute to Porsche that we find it necessary to test its models on the race track. It all comes down to the fact that the Porsche 911 is one of the very few truly high performance street cars in pro­duction today. Because of its racing suc­cesses, its capabilities are legend. But reputations cut no ice in road tests. What the car actually does is what counts. And at Pocono we explored the extremes of three new 911s.
    The 911’s uniqueness looms up as soon as you fit yourself into the seat. Allison discussed the difficulties he found in adapting: “Compared to the pedals, the steering wheel is way too far away. The height and angle would be fine if it were about two inches closer. All the stock car guys at Riverside complained about that. Petty, who is used to driving right up on top of the wheel, really had a problem—when he got somewhere close to what his arms wanted he had to work the pedals with his knees.

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    CHUCK BOONE

    “The pedal position and the shifter are all so very strange. I never missed the clutch at Riverside, but I did originally in that first Porsche I drove at Lime Rock . . . and even in my street car. It’s over so far to the right compared to a normal car I had to work to get used to it.
    “I’ve found the shifter itself to be a problem in the car I bought as well as the race cars. It’s very mushy in feeling. At Lime Rock I only got a couple laps of practice before the race and had to start at the rear of the grid. In the race I had come from 33rd to tenth in like ten laps. Then there was a spin out. In order to miss a spinning car, I tried to make a quick shift while I was in a turn. Instead of going from fourth to third, I went from fourth to first. It blew the engine up. That showed me right there that I’d better find out where the gears were.”
    With that as motivation, Allison bought his own street Porsche a few months lat­er when he committed to run the IROC. But he still doesn’t find shifting easy.
    “On a road course, with any kind of cornering pressure on the car—which transfers into your body also—you can’t find the detent for the gear you want.”

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    CHUCK BOONE

    Allison is not the only one to have this problem. At Riverside, Petty, Johncock, McClusky and even Denny Hulme were having trouble finding the gear they wanted when they wanted it. And at Pocono we discovered that the problem is not confined to the RSR. The stock cars work well enough on the street where, even though the linkage might be somewhat imprecise, you’ll probably never miss a gear. But on the track, sometimes you move the lever and you can’t find anything. Or worse yet, you get the wrong gear. And while it’s possible that the driver is hurrying the operation under those circumstances, driver error is only partially responsible. We strongly sus­pect that certain combinations of corner­ing, braking and acceleration loads on the car, in conjunction with high engine speeds, produce distortions somewhere in the long shift mechanism that prevent it from working properly. Allison agrees and considers this to be one of the ma­jor problem areas in the car.
    When it comes to handling, Allison ap­proaches the Porsches from years of professional experience and quickly sights in on their uniqueness. “Compared to American cars that have a good, positive front end feel and a back end that just trails along meekly, the Porsches are very much more aggressive. They are very quick reacting, al­most squirrelly, in what would be a nor­mal maneuver in any other car. I’ve driv­en my car pretty fast on interstate high­ways and, when you get it up to speed, it’s pretty comfortable. But you better not move the steering wheel very much. If you want to change lanes at 70 mph, you learn quickly to do it very carefully. The cars are heavy in the rear and very light in front—which makes the steering light. It’s a feeling you really have to get used to.”
    Allison’s point is that, unlike an Ameri­can car, the Porsche’s back end doesn’t trail meekly behind the front. And it’s this feeling that convinces so many street drivers that they are in the world’s best handling car. At low speeds, city traffic and brisk marches through winding lanes, a 911 is supremely agile. The steering is quick and the car instantly changes direction with only the lightest touch. It feels for all the world like a civilized formula racer and gives great plea­sure. But the Porsche’s personality changes drastically as you approach its limit. Then the tail swings heavily, and the car responds to an unpracticed and unsubtle touch with a vengeance. Moderate street drivers never learn of this; the venturesome ultimately will find out. Allison, of course, has already served his apprenticeship on the race track.
    “The hard thing to really get used to in the race cars at Riverside was, when you go too deep into a corner and lifted, the car would begin to spin. And if you went ahead and did the natural thing, lifted—or put on the brakes—the car would spin. But if you could make yourself put your foot back on the gas pedal, the car would drive out of the spin. That was how (Emerson) Fittipaldi crashed—he knew he had to get back on the gas, but while he was doing it he went too deep and ended up with his front—rather than back—end against the wall. Naturally, Mark (Donohue) and George Follmer knew this. The rest of us just had to kind of find out. It’s a completely opposite re­action to a stock car. When you lift in a stock car, it tends to straighten out.
    “The other thing is that Porsches tend to oversteer very badly at first, and then correct. When you would expect it to be either lost or in a controlled broadslide, it snaps back straight, sometimes even over center toward the other direction. Which I feel would get an inexperienced driver into trouble.

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    CHUCK BOONE

    “These cars react the same way the race cars do. Naturally the RSR with the racing suspension and the big, fat racing tires will corner better. But these cars at 50 mph feel exactly the same as the race cars do at 70 or 80.
    Curiously, the factory engineers speak of neutral handling as the reason for the Carrera’s tire set-up: 185/70 radials on 6.0-inch wheels in front and 215/60 radi­als on the 7.0-inch rims in back. Intuitive­ly, this sounds like the right approach—bigger tires on the end with the most weight. But in practice, we found no cir­cumstance in which any of the 911s fit our, or Allison’s, definition of neutral. In skid-pad testing, they all understeered heavily when under power. And if we lift­ed abruptly without correcting the steer­ing, they all spun in little more than the length of the car. It was like having a choice of power-on understeer, lift-throt­tle oversteer and nothing in between. Moreover, the consistency of this reac­tion in all three cars indicated that the Carrera’s wide rear wheels and rear tires make no noticeable difference.
    The brand of tire, however, does make an enormous difference in cornering power. The basic 911 and the Carrera had identical suspension set-ups: optional Bilstein shock absorbers (which are very harsh for street use) and front and rear anti-sway bars (standard on the Carrera, optional on the 911). The 911 also had the optional 6.0-inch wide wheels (5.5-inch wide is standard). The only difference was tires—Michelin XWX on the 911 and Dunlops on the Carrera—and of course the Carrera’s wider rear wheels. The Michelin-shod 911 was far quicker on the skid pad, generating 0.83 G in cornering force compared to 0.80 G for the Carrera. The 911S Targa, also on Dunlops but burdened with air conditioning and lacking the optional rear anti-sway bar was a distant third at 0.74 G. The basic 911, contrary to all that is right, also managed to be easily the fastest on the road course. The high-back bucket seats—new this year—provide excellent lateral support, the Miche­lin tires are clean and clear in their re­sponse, and the optional suspension un­derpinnings are well suited to track driving. Allison was able to circulate easily at 1:22.0 (78.9 mph).
    He did not, however, find the Targa’s road course behavior to his liking and his running commentary shows it. “Boy, this thing is top heavy compared to that oth­er one . . . very soft suspension. We’re way slower through here than we were in the other car. I guarantee you, you’d have to drive this thing all the way around . . . Yeah, now see, right here the car begins to mush over and pick up oversteer or understeer, depending upon where my throttle pedal foot is.”
    Six laps of that was enough and he parked it, having recorded a best of 1:23.9 (77.2 mph). The conclusion was that the Targa’s extra weight and the Dunlop tires were more than enough to offset the extra power of the “S” engine. In addition, the lack of a rear anti-sway bar on the Targa increased the roll angle considerably which, besides making the car awkward to drive, also presented the tires to the road at a less favorable cam­ber angle (one of the intricacies of the Porsche order form, to wit: A 16mm front bar is standard on the 911 and 911S. But if you order the optional rear sway bar you also get a larger-20mm front bar—so that the understeer/oversteer nature of the two set-ups will be approxi­mately the same). So the standard sus­pension Targa was slower, by a lot.

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    CHUCK BOONE

    Of course, everyone had high hopes for the Carrera. It’s price tag says it’s the best, right? But Allison just takes them as they come. “. . . this one doesn’t handle as bad as the Targa (911S) and its engine runs nice and strong. But it’s still very mushy compared to the 911. In handling, I’d say this one is about one-third better than the Targa and two-thirds poorer than the 911. I can feel the spoiler at high speeds, it pushes the nose up. But on the infield it’s just some­thing I can see in the rear-view mirror.” The Carrera finished the road course tri­als in a reasonably close second place at 1:22.8 (78.3 mph). It was agreed that the wide rear wheels and tires made no noticeable difference and that Dunlops in general were less sticky than Miche­lins. The spoiler is a mixed blessing. In the critical high speed banked turn it def­initely discouraged the rear end from its nervous tendency to hang out, but at the same time it increased the vagueness of the steering (See sidebar on aerodynamics, page 6).
    Allison is emphatic about Porsche handling. “The most unnatural thing is, when you see that you are in a little bit of a problem and you lift off the gas, the problem increases. Then you’re in trou­ble. What do you do next? With the race cars we found out you stomp your foot down and start steering like a wild man. But I don’t think an inexperienced driver is going to do that. These cars do have a strong reputation . . . but I don’t see why. I’d guess it comes first of all from the racing versions, and then from its quickness at well under its limit.”

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    CHUCK BOONE

    On the subject of handling, at least, we are in agreement. When you get used to a Porsche, you can make it do some pretty amazing things. But the idea of evading emergency situations by ap­plying power is so unnatural for most drivers that it is unreasonable in a car intended for street use.
    “The dealer where I bought my car happens to be a personal friend and I suppose he’ll be greatly disturbed by my comments about his little Kraut wagon.” Allison grins and continues, “To be fair, the car has unique characteristics and some people may like it. I don’t. I think they are $12,000 imported Corvairs.”
    Allison, it turns out, sold his 911T with­in hours after he finished up at the Riverside IROC. And his reactions, we think, are typical of the general sports-car-driv­ing public. There is no middle ground, you either like Porsches or you hate them. But in all cases, you consider yourself among the fortunate few if you can afford one.
    You’ve laid out the extra money to insure that the facto­ry will inscribe “Carrera” across the rocker panels of your new Porsche. And as a $285 “mandatory option,” your 911S will sport the boldest aerodynamic device to land on a street car since the awesome stabilizers of Plym­outh’s Superbird. But does that ski jump built into the Carrera’s deck-lid really do anything? Or is it simply a stylistic lure? Here is the answer.
    The Carrera’s rear spoiler will indeed do more than turn heads at every stoplight. It does, in fact, coerce air molecules rushing over its gelcoat surface into doing gen­uinely useful work. Namely, the creation of substantial vertical down forces at the rear of the car.
    To precisely measure the effects of the spoiler, we in­strumented our test Carrera and ran countless high speed laps on the tri-oval at Pocono International Race­way. An onboard strip-chart recorder plotted the informa­tion we were after: first of all, car velocity; and secondly, changes in wheel loadings—exactly how much force was pressing the tires to the pavement.

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    CHUCK BOONE

    A fifth wheel trailing behind the rear bumper delivered forward velocity data to the recorder. Tire loadings, on the other hand, came from a position transducer. It was actually capable of measuring suspension deflections while the car was moving. That information could be translated into “weight on the tires” only after the follow­ing pit-side calibration procedure. With the aid of a Turner wheel scale and a floor jack, we cycled the Carrera’s height up and down, plotting wheel weight indicated by the scales versus suspension deflation on the chart re­corder. With this base-line data, we then knew exactly what force linked the rubber to the road at any speed from zero to the all-out maximum.
    The results show that without the spoiler (the test Carrera had been fitted with the Targa’s decklid for this com­parison) airflow begins lifting the rear of the car at 30 mph. And by 100 mph, the rear of the car is “lighter” by 200 lbs. But with the Carrera spoiler, weight loss stabi­lizes above 65 mph at only 35 lbs. As a result, the rear tires can develop more cornering force with the spoiler, because they have more vertical load forcing them to the pavement. And you don’t have to peg the speedometer before those benefits are delivered. The spoiler begins working to your advantage at 30 mph.
    Front wheel weights are also affected—to a lesser ex­tent. With or without the Carrera decklid, the front tires’ weight loss due to airflow is approximately 200 lbs. be­tween 60 and 100 mph. But by 120 mph, the rear spoiler is actually a disadvantage, because it unloads the front end by an additional 60 lbs. over the non-spoilered car. Clearly, some sort of snow plow is needed in the front to match the effectiveness of the ski ramp in the rear.

    Specifications

    SPECIFICATIONS
    1974 Porsche 911143-hp flat-6, 5-speed manual, 2470 lbBase/as-tested price: $9950/$12,225C/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 6.1 sec100 mph: 18.0 sec1/4 mile: 14.7 @ 92.1 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 180 ftFuel economy: 17-20 mpg1974 Porsche 911S Targa167-hp flat-6, 5-speed manual, 2605 lbBase/as-tested price: $12,725/$15,670C/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 5.9 sec100 mph: 16.9 sec1/4 mile: 14.6 @ 94.1 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 186 ftFuel economy: 16-21 mpg
    1974 Porsche 911S Carrera167-hp flat-6, 5-speed manual, 2480 lbBase/as-tested price: $13,575/$15,045C/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 5.8 sec100 mph: 16.0 sec1/4 mile: 14.4 @ 95.4 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 187 ftFuel economy: 16-19 mpg

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    2004 Volvo S40 First Drive

    From the February 2004 issue of Car and Driver.
    One shift into our driving experience with the all-new S40, and we realized Volvo’s second-generation small car had taken a big step toward becoming a driver’s machine. That’s because now it can actually be shifted by the driver. Unlike its predecessor, which came only with a four-speed automatic teamed with a 170-hp, 1.9-liter turbo four-cylinder, this latest Swede can be equipped with a five- or six-speed manual transmission, or a five-speed automatic, and a pair of inline five-cylinder engines making 168 and 218 horsepower, respectively.

    Luxury Sports Sedans Face Off

    Tested: 2004 Volvo V50 T5 AWD

    Tested: 2003 Volvo S60R AWD

    We knew the new S40 meant business even before we got behind the wheel. A ringer for a stubbier S60, the S40 looks as if it had spent many a long winter’s night at a Swedish gym. Examine the fresh next to the stale, and the new car appears more athletic, highlighted by short overhangs and bulging fenders. It is aggressive where the previous car was timid. More important, it now looks like a Volvo. Perhaps it bears too much family resemblance to the S60, but overall, it’s a sportier, welcome guise.
    Compared with the previous S40, the new car is 1.9 inches shorter, yet is 2.1 inches wider and 1.5 inches taller. It rides on a wheelbase that is 3.1 inches longer and has wider front and rear tracks. As a result, every interior dimension-sans rear headroom, which remains 37.2 inches-has increased, including a much-needed 1.7-inch hike in rear legroom.

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    Volvo’s “smaller without getting less” philosophy not only resulted in an interior that is bigger but one that is more stylish and functional. Bissecting the dash is a unique, aluminum-covered center stack that is less than an inch thick. It looks like a chic Nambé platter, and it houses all the audio, telephone, and climate controls, while also shielding a convenient storage bin behind it. Ergonomically, the button-and-knob-infused stack isn’t immediately intuitive, but a few minutes of study make it a quick learn. Once mastered, the controls become a second thought to the appreciation garnered from the top-level fit and finish and high-quality materials. Despite being an “entry level” car, the S40 feels as refined and luxurious as the upper-echelon S60.
    Although Volvo designed the S40, it can’t take full credit for developing the car, which shares architecture with the Mazda 3 and next-generation Ford Focus. Engineers from Ford, Mazda, and Volvo collaborated on the C1 platform, contributing to and drawing from the development pool. The fruits of this labor came to be known as “global shared technologies,” or the basic components-underbody, suspension layout, steering, etc.-utilized by the three brands. According to a Volvo engineer, the shared components consist of “everything that doesn’t make the brand.” In other words, Ford and Mazda couldn’t grab everything they wanted from Volvo’s safety bag.

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    As with all Volvos, that bag is full of comforting things, including front, side, and curtain airbags; collapsible pedals; seatbelt pretensioners; whiplash protection; and four grades of steel for the frontal structure to create optimal crumple zones. Volvo even went so far as to simulate frontal crash tests without the engines installed, forcing engineers to shave 7.8 inches from the width of the transverse motors so they’d fit within the space that remained after the test. Moreover, the S40, whose body is 68 percent stiffer than its predecessor’s, gets standard traction control and four-wheel disc brakes with ABS and emergency brake assist, as well as optional dynamic stability control.
    Our favorite preview example-a front-wheel-drive T5-came with the turbocharged 2.5-liter inline five-cylinder used in the S60, S80, and XC90, mated to the six-speed manual from the S60R. Featuring short throws and light, effortless action, the gearbox makes it easy to enjoy and maximize the T5’s 218 horsepower and 236 pound-feet of torque. Volvo says the T5 can hit 60 mph in 6.3 seconds and produce a top speed of 149 mph. With all that torque available from 1500 to 4800 rpm, the T5 not only launches off the line but also quickly gets out of its own way on the highway, exhibiting no noticeable turbo lag. There’s also little torque steer evident, which is impressive considering all the twist being delivered through the front tires. An all-wheel-drive T5, using the V70 AWD’s Haldex system, will be available, but it almost seems superfluous given that the front-driver performs so well.

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    The other, less favorable example we sampled was a base 2.4i automatic that featured a naturally aspirated 168-hp, 2.4-liter five mated to a five-speed Geartronic. Judged against the harelike T5, the 2.4i felt like a tortoise on Xanax. Volvo estimates 8.4 seconds for 0 to 60, more than two seconds slower than the T5 manual. The 2.4i’s available five-speed manual would likely liven up the car, but not enough to make us even think of exiting the T5’s driver seat.
    Both S40s use struts up front and a multilink setup in the rear, tuned for a firm ride that manages to be both comfortable and compliant. Our cars’ Euro settings felt ideal, making us wishful that Volvo wouldn’t tinker with them for the U.S. cars. Complemented by communicative and linear steering-the best of any Volvo to date-and the optional 205/50R-17 tires on our T5, the able suspension made short work of the winding roads around Málaga, Spain.
    Built at Volvo’s Ghent factory in Belgium, the base and T5 S40s go on sale this spring, available only with the automatic transmission and front-wheel drive. Manual models and all-wheel-drive T5s will follow in the summer, when they’ll receive 2005 monikers. Volvo says pricing should start at about $24,000 for a base 2.4i and top out at roughly $30,000 for a loaded T5. To us, that’s reasonable pricing for a car that quantum-leaps its predecessor. Is it a big enough leap to reach Volvo’s sales target of 28,000 units for 2004? We think so.

    Specifications

    SPECIFICATIONS
    2004 Volvo S40
    VEHICLE TYPE front-engine, front- or 4-wheel-drive, 5-passenger, 4-door sedan
    ESTIMATED BASE PRICE$24,000
    ENGINE TYPE 2.4-liter DOHC 20-valve inline-5, 168 hp, 170 lb-ft; turbocharged and intercooled 2.5-liter DOHC 20-valve inline-5, 218 hp, 236 lb-ft
    TRANSMISSION 5- or 6-speed manual, 5-speed automatic
    DIMENSIONSWheelbase: 103.9 inLength: 175.9 inWidth: 69.7 inHeight: 57.5 inCurb weight: 3200-3400 lb
    PERFORMANCE RATINGS (MFR’S EST., T5 6-sp)Zero to 60 mph: 6.3 secTop speed (drag limited): 149 mph
    PROJECTED FUEL ECONOMYEPA city driving 22-24 mpgEPA highway driving 30-32 mpg

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    Tested: 1965 Porsche 911

    From the April 1965 issue of Car and Driver.
    No contest. This is the Porsche to end all Porsches—or, rather, to start a whole new generation of Porsches. Porsche’s new 911 model is unquestionably the finest Porsche ever built. More than that, it’s one of the best Gran Turismo cars in the world, certainly among the top three or four.
    Porsche enthusiasts used to insist that the 356 model was as nearly-perfect an automobile as had ever been designed, an immutable classic that couldn’t be im­proved upon. Oh, no? Put a familiar 356 up alongside a 911. Only yesterday, the 356 seemed ahead of its time. Today you realize its time has passed; the 356 leaves you utterly unimpressed and you can’t keep your eyes off the 911. The 911 is a superior car in every respect … the stuff legends are made of.

    Golden Anniversary: 50 Years of The Porsche 911

    The Evolution of the Porsche 911 in the U.S.

    Defining the Porsche 911: New vs. Old

    Let it be understood at the outset that the 911 does not replace the 356, according to the factory. In the catalog, it replaces the fussy, little-appreciated Carrera 2 while the 356C (ex-Super) and 356SC (ex-Super 95) still roll off the assembly lines at about their normal rate. However, we can’t believe that Porsche will con­tinue making two entirely different cars, side-by-side, beyond the immediately foreseeable future. And let it also be understood that the 911 is not readily available. The first six month’s production is completely sold out and there’s a line of expectant owners going halfway around almost every Porsche agency in the country.
    General
    The 911—so-called because it is the 911th design project since Porsche opened its doors in 1931—is also the first all-Porsche Porsche. The 356 was the first car to carry the Porsche name, although when it was con­ceived in 1948 it was little more than a souped-up, special-bodied version of an earlier Porsche design, the Volkswagen. The 911, while true to the 356’s basic configuration, is an entirely new and different car. The engine is again air-cooled, again hung out behind the rear axle, but it’s a single-overhead-cam six-cylinder where the 356 was a pushrod four-cylinder (and the Carrera a four-cam four-cylinder). The new body is far more handsome—the work of old Professor Porsche’s grandson, Ferry, Jr. The 911’s 5-speed gear­box, already in service in Porsche’s 904 GT racing car, is probably the new car’s best single feature. Even the suspension is new, though tried-and-true torsion bars are retained as the springing medium.

    JULIUS WEITMANN

    The 911, or 901 as it then was, was introduced at the 1963 Frankfurt Auto Show. It was very much a prototype and its debut may have been premature. More than a year was to pass before it went into pro­duction, during which time the model number was changed (to indicate that it was a later model than the Frankfurt car and also because Peugeot reportedly had a lock on three-digit model numbers with zero in the middle), the price estimate dropped, the performance estimate rose, and a demand built up that the current four-a-day supply won’t be able to satisfy for some time to come.
    The 901/911 was not the “best” car Porsche could have made. Porsche could have put the storied flat-eight engine into production, bored out to, say, 2.5 liters and tuned up to 240 horsepower. That would have put the 901/911 into the Ferrari-Corvette-Jaguar performance bracket. It also would have raised the price considerably, and Porsche was understandably nervous about entering the No-Man’s-Land market for $9000 GT cars. On price alone, it would have been beyond the reach of anybody but the Very Rich, and the V.R. are noted for such capricious perversity as preferring a $14,000 car to a $9000 car simply because it costs $5000 more. The four-cam flat-eight also would have had the same kind of maintenance and reliability problems the Carrera engine had; problems that are hopefully nonexistent in the 911’s sohc six-cylinder.
    Considering what the Stuttgart design office has turned out in the past, Porsche could have come out with a supercharged six-liter 550-hp V-16 GT car to sell for $30,000 and not lose a drag race to anybody but Don Garlits, but their production facilities are hardly geared for that sort of thing, and it would be getting pretty far away from the Porsche image, wouldn’t it? In fact, Porsche had a full four-seater on the drawing boards at one point, but Ferry Porsche felt that his company’s business was not selling super-duper sedans or ultra-ultra sports/racing cars but optimum-priced, optimum-size, optimum-performance Gran Turismo cars, which is exactly what the 911 is.

    JULIUS WEITMANN

    At $6490 POE East Coast (or $5275 FOB Stuttgart), the 911 isn’t what you’d call cheap—no Porsche ever was—but then, quality never is. Porsche’s kind of quality cannot be had for less, viz. Ferrari 330GT ($14,000) or Mercedes-Benz 230SL ($8000). It’s of more than ordinary interest that the 911 costs a whop­ping thousand dollars less than the Carrera 2 it re­places. A Porsche is either worth it to the prospective buyer or it isn’t; he can’t justify the price tag by the way the body tucks under at the rear or by the way the steering wheel fits in his hands or the way the engine settles in for a drive through a rain-filled afternoon. But let’s see what he gets for his money.
    Body
    The 911’s eye-catching body is distinctive—slimmer, trimmer, yet obviously Porsche. While not as revolu­tionary as the original 356 design was in its day, the 911’s shape is far less controversial and slightly more aerodynamic. Though frontal area has grown, a lower drag coefficient (.38 vs. .398) allows it to reach a top speed of 130 mph on only 148 hp. It ought to weather the years without looking dated. Compared to the cur­rent 356 body, the 911 is five inches longer (on a four-inch longer wheelbase), three inches narrower (on a one-inch wider track) and just about the same height. The body structure is still unitized, built up of in­numerable, complicated steel stampings welded to­gether (with the exception of the front fenders which are now bolted on for easier repair of minor accidents). The glass area and luggage space have been increased 58% and 186%, respectively, and the turning circle is a bit tighter. The fully-trimmed (with cocoa mats) trunk will hold enough for a week’s vacation for two; additional space is available in the rear seat area. The trunk and engine lids can be opened to any angle and held by counter-springs and telescopic dampers—a nice touch. These lids, as well as the doors, are larger than the old Porsche’s, making access to the innards much less awkward. The gas filler cap nestles under a trap-door in the left fender, and the engine lid release is hidden away in the left door post.
    The generous expanse of glass area does wonders for the rearward vision; all-around visibility is comparable to a normal front-engined car. The bumpers are well-integrated with the body, though provide barely adequate protection from those who park by ear. The standard appointments are lush and extensive: two heater/defrosters, padded sun-visors with vanity mir­ror, map and courtesy lights, 3-speed windshield wipers, 4-nozzle windshield washers, chrome wheels, belted tires, two fog lamps, a back-up light and a beau­tiful wood-rim steering wheel. About the only options we’d like are seat belts (for which massive, forged eye­bolts are provided), a radio and a fender mirror. Fitted luggage and factory-installed air-conditioning will be available shortly, we’re told.

    Specifications

    SPECIFICATIONS
    1965 Porsche 911
    VEHICLE TYPE rear-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2+2-passenger, 2-door coupe
    PRICE AS TESTED$6,490
    ENGINE TYPE flat-6 engineDisplacement 121.5 in3, 1991 cm3Power 148 hp @ 6100 rpmTorque 140 lb-ft @ 4200 rpm
    TRANSMISSION 5-speed manual
    DIMENSIONSWheelbase: 87.1 inLength: 164.0 inWidth: 63.4 inHeight: 51.9 inCurb weight: 2376 lb
    C/D TEST RESULTSZero to 60 mph: 7.0 secZero to 100 mph: 20.0 secStanding ¼-mile: 15.6 sec @ 90 mphTop speed: 130 mph
    FUEL ECONOMYEPA city/highway: 16/24 mpg

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    2001 Sports Sedan Showdown

    From the January 2001 Issue of Car and Driver.
    Why be cold when you can conjure up your own warm front? Five speeds or maybe six. Horsepower upwards of 200, or at least close. Tires made for grabbing the pavement, and seats cupped to hold you against the g-force. Then cloak the good stuff in four-door bodywork, just to throw off suspicion. Conspiracy to drive?
    “No, sir, officer, just hurrying to get the kids from the 4-H meeting.”

    The Best Sedans of 2020

    Luxury Sports Sedans Face Off

    Sports sedans. It’s a loosely defined category, at the crossroads where fun meets functionality. There’s no DNA test. Trust the seat of your pants. You know ’em when you drive ’em.
    You can pay a little, or you can pay a lot. How warm do you want to be? Given the chills of January, let’s pay up. Thirty grand? At least. Thirty-five? We tried to hold it there. But the options have a way of defying gravity.
    In any comparison of sports sedans, the first question becomes, “Which BMW?” You can’t fight it. The Munich maker has the reputation, and the cars have the moves, sweet enough to capture two spots on our 2001 10Best list. Moreover, every automaker from around the world, when trying to wedge itself into the sports-sedan class, targets a BMW model. Bimmers are the gold standard.
    You might find a stripper 330i in our price range. With its in-line six stroked 5.6 millimeters to 3.0 liters for 2001, it’d be a strong performer. But the idea this time is well-rounded cars, and a 325i, at a base price of $27,560, allows more room for optional equipment.
    In our sports-sedan comparisons of recent years, BMWs and Audis usually end up duking it out for the top spots. An Audi A4 Quattro powered by the 2.8-liter, five-valve V-6 would fit our price range—and our driving expectations—just fine.
    Thus far, this looks like a roundup of the usual suspects. So where’s the Saab? A 9-3 SE, turbocharged to 205 horsepower at 5500 rpm, is an obvious choice.
    Now for the new guys. Lexus put BMW in its crosshairs with its latest model, the IS300. This is a compact four-door measuring within an inch of the BMW 3-series in nearly every dimension. Conveniently, the 3.0-liter six from the larger GS300 was available for immediate transplant, thereby loading a smooth-revving 215-horsepower into the compact’s breech. Said powerplant just happens to be an in-line six. Call it the BMW formula. And call it promising.
    New for 2001 is the S60 from Volvo, a pared-down version of Volvo’s big S80 sedan. Talk about family resemblance. Betcha can’t tell them apart without checking the badge on the tail. Volvo is touting the sports-sedan nature of the S60 to all who will listen. Talk flows easily. But one detail grabs our attention. It’s spelled T5, and it indicates a turbocharged five-cylinder engine rated at 247 hp. That’s a megadose of horsepower, far more than in any other compact sports sedan at this price. The T5 outguns the 325i by 63 hp. BMW the underdog? The numbers look overwhelming.
    Like Volvo, Mercedes-Benz also keeps reminding us that “sport” was a priority during the design of its new C-class sedan. And it backs up the promise by offering a six-speed manual behind the base engine, a 12-spark-plug, 18-valve V-6 of 2.6 liters rated at 168 horsepower. This is a sleek little four-door with the smooth, muscular look of an Olympic swimmer, only the fluid it was trained to slip through is air. The aerodynamic drag coefficient is 0.27. Take that as a promise of effortless speed.
    That makes six sedans: two front-drivers, three sending their power rearward, and one that divvies up its torque among all four of its wheels. Six different propositions pitched to the lusts of the sporting driver. Sure, the calendar says January, but you know how the temperature rises once the scenery starts to blur. Let’s see what these little scooters can do.

    Sixth Place: Saab 9-3 SE
    This car is getting old. Based on the Saab 900 introduced in 1994, it underwent “more than 1000 improvements” in its transformation to Saab 9-3 in 1999. But this is model year 2001, the competition is better than ever, and this old warrior’s lurchy, stiff-legged stride over the back roads is no longer satisfying. The ride is hard-edged, and when you hurry over the humpy-bumpies, the suspension bottoms, the steering snatches from side to side, and the adventure quotient gets inappropriately high.

    Highs: Cockpit’s aroma of leather, the hydraulic rush of turbo torque, lots of useful space inside.

    In Saab fashion, the turbo four still delivers the thrust—second best of the bunch to 60 mph (6.8 seconds), second fastest through the quarter (at 93 mph). The boost comes on at relatively low revs with a hydraulic press to your backside. Hang on! You’ll feel the torque steer—a squirmy sort of fishtailing at the front end—even more jiggly over less-than-perfect surfaces. Just a few years back, we downplayed such rudeness as the cost of packing power in a small car. But it’s a front-drive problem. Curious, we think, that the two turbos in this group are attached to the drive systems least able to cope with turbo torque.
    By a small margin, this Saab ranked highest in back-seat room. It has just a bit more space for three across. Still, if you habitually carry that many, we’d advise a bigger car. None of these cars can accommodate three adults in back for any distance. The Saab’s five-door hatchback layout also topped the others’ for cargo-hauling flexibility.

    Lows: Torque steer, truculent handling on unsmooth roads, wind roar from closed sunroof. It’s a rough rider, too.

    At 196 feet to stop from 70 mph, this Saab ranked last in braking, and it was fifth of six on the skidpad at 0.77 g. Part of the deficit can be attributed to the all-season tires (the Mercedes wore them as well), which give up dry-weather grip in exchange for better winter traction.

    The Verdict: The geezer of the group, with lots of memories, not much future.

    The cockpit is welcoming with its rush-of-leather aroma, but it lacks the intimacy we look for in a sports sedan. The shifter is vagu—”ropy” in the parlance of one test driver. The seat is rather flat, the console is low, and the door panels are plain, tending toward the featureless. You have the sense of a big room with a lofty ceiling. It has all become very familiar over the years since 1994. We have the sense of an old friend who hasn’t learned anything in too long.
    2001 Saab 9-3 SE205-hp inline-4, 5-speed manual, 3427 lbBase/as-tested price: $33,170/$34,015C/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 6.8 sec100 mph: 17.8 mph1/4 mile: 15.4 @ 93 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 196 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.77 gC/D observed fuel economy: 23 mpg

    Fifth Place: Mercedes-Benz C240
    Here’s a new friend whose greatest mistake was poor preparation for the meeting. We’ll shoulder a share of the blame. We were unable to find a C240 with the optional Sport package, which includes stiffer springs, high-control shocks, and lower-profile 225/50R-16 tires (205/55R-16s are standard) to improve handling, plus numerous appearance details. So we invited a six-speed (not available with the 3.2-liter V-6) C240 with a typical array of luxo options. After all, DaimlerChrysler keeps saying that “sport” was baked into this new model from day one.

    Highs: Plush leather interior, low wind noise, aero-slipper styling.

    Well, not that we could notice. The demeanor is mild and luxurious, just right for painless transit: good isolation of road noise, very little ride harshness, even less wind roar. But where’s the muscle toning? The body rises and falls on the suspension, long excursions up and down, all the time up and down. Steering inputs are followed by quick, tippy roll angles. The moves are way too nautical for a sports sedan.
    The Sport package should eliminate those complaints. But we have more. The clutch engages abruptly. The brakes have a long, squishy entry followed by powerful retardation, all taking place with too little change in pedal effort. About half our drivers disliked the steering feel as well; the buildup of steering effort, and motion at the wheel rim, fail to produce the expected change in path. You steer, rethink the result, and steer again. So the C240 feels uncoordinated, uncooperative. There’s no reward for driving here.

    Lows: Abrupt clutch, uncooperative brakes, flabby chassis muscles, tach cowers in shadowy of the cluster.

    Two more driver complaints: The aero-optimized outside mirrors are small and oddly angled, and the tachometer has the size and commanding presence more typical of a gas gauge.
    The passengers get a much better deal. The interior is rich and plush and beautifully colored in pastels. The leather has just the right puckers and gathers. The seats are firmly supportive but not hard. Comfort and space in back nearly matched the Saab’s, and topped all the others.

    The Verdict: A compact luxury sedan in compact-luxury-sedan clothes.

    All in all, we’re left with the feeling of a passenger car, not a driver’s car.
    2001 Mercedes-Benz C240168-hp V-6, 6-speed manual, 3389 lbBase/as-tested price: $30,595/$35,560C/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 8.8 sec100 mph: 23.8 mph1/4 mile: 16.7 @ 85 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 183 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.76 gC/D observed fuel economy: 23 mpg

    Fourth Place: Volvo S60 T5
    Two hundred forty-seven horses and not a shy one among them. This Volvo pours out the power. It makes the others get small in its mirrors as it rushes to 60 mph in 6.6 seconds, quickest in the group. The quarter-mile comes up in 15.1 seconds at 96 mph — also quickest. That’s 0.3 second and 3 mph quicker than the next-best Saab. Top speed, with the horses held back by the governor, is 129 mph.

    Highs: Three bags full of horsepower, cushy cockpit, frosted metal sculpture on display in the interior.

    These heroic numbers are the work of a high-pressure turbocharged and intercooled 2.3-liter five-cylinder engine (those seeking moderation can opt for a different turbo: a low-pressure system sans intercooler rated at 197 horsepower).
    Compared with the Saab, the Volvo is less ornery in its handling. Torque steer is relatively tame, and the suspension almost never bottoms. As in the Benz, there’s lots of up and down in the suspension motions, and lots of roll angle, but the S60 has more damping, which gives better control. Road adhesion is quite good, in the top half of the group at 0.81 g, but the subjective impression heads in a different direction. On a trip through the twisties, understeer dominates, accompanied by the thought that ride comfort and noise isolation—not athletic ability are the S60’s strong points.

    Lows: Touchy brakes, edgy clutch, five-cylinder thrum when the boost comes up.

    The interior makes a strong statement. All eyes immediately zero in on the “space ball” shifter centered in the console, a large ball-and-socket pivot sprouting a lever, rendered in a frosty finish that looks too cold to touch without mittens. The door-latch handles are carved from the same mystery metal. Simulated walrus hide covers the dash. The large speedometer and tach dials have beveled edges in the manner of those black Porsche chronographs. And the seats have a plush surface feel that makes the S60 seem five grand more expensive than all others in the group, the result, we think, of a thin layer of cushy foam beneath the leather cover. In back, the cushion is deeply contoured and shaped superbly for two passengers, but space is no better than in the Audi/ BMW/Lexus bunch, which, by a small fraction, ranks equally at the bottom half of the group.

    The Verdict: As sports sedans go, this is a small smile, not a big grin.

    The S60 is a powerful tourer, but never a frisky one.
    2001 Volvo S60 T5247-hp inline-5, 5-speed manual, 3410 lbBase/as-tested price: $32,375/$35,675C/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 6.6 sec100 mph: 16.3 mph1/4 mile: 15.1 @ 96 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 172 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.81 gC/D observed fuel economy: 25 mpg

    Third Place: Lexus IS300
    Of the six contestants, this spunky Lexus is the one that keeps digging us in the ribs and saying, “Let’s play.” There’s an irrepressible spirit here, with a switchblade quickness that’s the essence of motoring sport.

    Highs: Silken powertrain, eager control responses, spunky style, holding power of the grippy suede seats.

    There’s also the five-speed automatic as the only choice for now. It’s a slick execution, fully automatic, or you can select the manual mode, thereby activating two sets of upshift-and-downshift buttons on the steering wheel’s horizontal spokes, one set for each hand. Still, it’s an automatic, and that puts the lid on all hopes for a high finish in a C/D sports-sedan runoff.
    The IS300 is a small box of a car with its sheetmetal drawn tightly over fat Goodyear Eagle GS-D 215/45ZR-17 tires. The tall wheels, silvery taillights, and big-bore exhaust pipe add a West Coast swagger. Inside, the beltline is low, letting in lots of light and a great view. The door sills, pedals, and left-foot rest are finished in brushed metal — racing style! — punctuated with rubber buttons to keep your shoes from slipping off. The firm buckets have plenty of contour to keep you from sliding around, and the suede inserts finish off the job, gripping your backside like Velcro. Whereas the Volvo and the Benz feel plush inside, the Lexus is thinly padded, with its coverings tightly stretched over the essentials. The steering and the suspension pick up the theme. Everything about this car is pulled taut.

    Lows: Automatic only transmission, too much texture noise from tires, chrono-style speedometer difficult to read.

    Responses are instantaneous. No slack. The steering cuts quickly; we rated it best of all. The brakes respond right now. Body roll is minimal, and the tires read the road, with a bit more noise and ride harshness than you’d expect of a Lexus.
    Skidpad adhesion, at 0.82 g, is second best behind the BMW, with dependable understeer. Braking performance tops all others’ at 164 feet from 70 mph. Acceleration is just a tick behind the group’s average at 7.6 seconds to 60 mph, held back by the automatic. Top speed is 142 mph, just 2 mph short of the high mark set by the Saab.

    The Verdict: Born to frolic.

    Numbers, though, don’t capture this car. But we can paint its portrait with one seldom-used word. Think frolicsome. Because that’s how this Lexus thinks.
    2001 Lexus IS300215-hp inline-6, 5-speed automatic, 3392 lbBase/as-tested price: $30,995/$34,635C/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 7.6 sec100 mph: 20.0 mph1/4 mile: 15.8 @ 89 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 164 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.82 gC/D observed fuel economy: 22 mpg

    Second Place: Audi A4 2.8 Quattro
    Thinking of a vacation for your eyes? Give ’em a week inside this A4. They’ll come back rested and inspired. The cockpit appointments are so perfectly shaped. The leather is so richly colored, gray with a hint of coffee, and just the right wrinkles at the seams, like the handiwork of Bottega Veneta. And the wood — your living room should have such furniture.

    Highs: Cleanly chiseled exterior, richly appointed cockpit, composed handling at all times.

    The driving position fits, too, like a suit from Savile Row, thanks to instant tailoring by the power seat and the tilt-tele column. Best of all, the bucket is firm enough, and cupped enough, to hold you in the heat of the chase.
    This is a confident car, confident enough to shun the spoilers and add-on gestures that shout “Sport!” at the younger set. But the car feels sporty. The ride has a hard edge to it. There’s lots of impact and texture noise up from the tires. Ride motions are quick. You feel connected to the road. The controls play along, communicating, always reassuring that you have control.
    The confidence stays with you over the back roads. You feel just enough push as you enter turns that you don’t worry about the tail coming around. The balance turns broadly neutral the rest of the way through. The Audi hangs on, shrugging off the sudden changes in throttle position that upset others. Thank the all-wheel-drive system for such imperturbability. It’s all so composed, so meant to happen, the spirited driving in this car.

    Lows: Sharpish ride with lots of tire noise, engine coarse at high revs, brakes fade.

    Performance, in all the tests, ranks at the middle of the pack. Acceleration fades a bit toward the high end—0 to 100 mph takes 20.8 seconds, behind all but the Benz. Top speed is governed at 130 mph.
    The V-6 is, frankly, unstimulating, delivering reasonable torque in the midrange and fretful notes when pushed to the 6200-rpm redline. The shift lever is short and the motions are slick, although this car, unlike all other A4s we’ve driven, had an awkward clutch engagement very high in the pedal travel. We also noticed some fade in the brake test, but pedal feel otherwise was up to the Audi’s standard of easy controllability.

    The Verdict: Good-looking, easy to talk to, likes to dance.

    While your eyes are vacationing in an A4, the driver in you will be charmed as well.
    2001 A4 2.8 Quattro190-hp V-6, 5-speed manual, 3382 lbBase/as-tested price: $31,540/$36,110C/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 7.4 sec100 mph: 20.8 mph1/4 mile: 15.8 @ 89 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 181 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.80 gC/D observed fuel economy: 23 mpg

    First Place: BMW 325i
    Water runs downhill. And another BMW rises to the top of a sporting-car test.
    The pleasures of this car flow almost entirely toward the driver, not the passengers, from an epicenter located near the midpoint between the clutch and the gear lever. The clutch hooks up like velvet, right where you think it should. The shift lever stirs cream. The right pedal tapers up the power, so easy and natural to control. You make smooth, expert shifts the first time you drive. Yeah, we’re earlobe deep in talent here at C/D, but this BMW never stops flattering.

    Highs: The joy of five-speeding, vibration-free power, harsh-free ride, fumble-free handling.

    And that’s the story of its handling, too. This car flows over the back roads, like a liquid following the contours of the road. Instantly, you’re a great driver. Up-and-down suspension motions are so perfectly damped they almost escape notice. Body roll is controlled, a liquid that never sloshes. Pour it on. You have a stable platform from which to give your best. And the steering, the brakes, and the clutch and shifter convey your messages to the machinery exactly as you intend them.

    Lows: Low-aspiration interior appointments, bare-bones equipment list, seat adjuster awkward for heavy drivers.

    You could get the wrong idea from the $30,110 price of this car, lowest of the bunch. Despite our plan for well-rounded machines, this BMW is, in fact, a stripper 325i with only a sunroof and the Sport package, the latter being a critical contributor to this car’s winning ways. It includes grippy 225/45WR-17 “summer” tires on eight-inch-wide rims, a stiffer “sport suspension,” and a set of front buckets with excellent lateral support — on manual-adjust tracks. A lot of sport per dollar, nothing for luxury. No cruise control. The seats are covered in vinyl.
    In a sports-sedan comparison, it’s a winning formula. Road grip is excellent, measuring 0.86 g on the skidpad, yet the ride is pleasing, too. Braking fell behind that of the Lexus by only three feet. Acceleration hangs into the top half of the group, but only just barely. Engine sound, a smooth hum, is always present, particularly at interstate speeds. It’s accompanied by wind roar that is louder than average. Torque is a bit weak, lower for 2001 than for last year, reduced in exchange for 14 extra horsepower, up to 184 now.

    The Verdict: Pours itself down back roads like liquid poetry.

    Less torque, more reason to work the lever. This car loves that kind of work.
    2001 BMW 325i184-hp inline-6, 5-speed manual, 3248 lbBase/as-tested price: $27,560/$30,110C/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 7.0 sec100 mph: 19.9 mph1/4 mile: 15.4 @ 90 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 167 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.86 gC/D observed fuel economy: 25 mpg
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    The 10 Best Roll Up Tonneau Covers to Buy 2020

    Trucks are great for many reasons, but one area that they lack is in adequate security. Sure, it’s easy to throw in what you need to carry around, but with that comes the prying eyes from strangers and a lack of privacy. To increase the security for things you place on your truck bed, consider investing in a roll up tonneau cover. They’re easy to install and one of the more affordable forms of tonneau cover available!

    How to Choose the Right Roll Up Tonneau Cover
    The best roll up tonneau covers are durable, strong, and sturdy enough to keep all your possessions safe. We’ll cover some of the basic features to look out for and which types of tonneau covers are the best for you. You can also find a more in-depth guide here.
    Types of Roll Up Tonneau Covers
    There are two main types of roll up tonneau cover, soft and hard, each with their benefits and drawbacks. This guide focuses exclusively on roll up covers, but if you want to know about different types of tonneau covers in general, you can read more about those here.
    Soft Roll Up Covers
    Soft roll up tonneau covers are the most basic type of truck covers that you can invest in. They’re made from vinyl fabric and can be UV resistant or waterproof. They’re enough to keep your items safe in the back of the truck bed while you’re driving, though they may be too soft to provide security since they can be sliced through with sharp knives.
    However, they’re the more affordable option of the two types. They also weigh less and can be easier to roll up and use on a day to day basis.
    Hard Roll Up Covers
    Hard roll up tonneau covers can be made from metal or plastic. You’ll be able to protect your possessions much better, but the initial installation can be more difficult.
    When they’re rolled up, they also take up more space compared to soft roll up covers. The process of rolling them up can also be more difficult due to their increased weight when compared to soft covers. They are also significantly more expensive than soft roll up covers.
    Features to Consider When Buying Roll Up Tonneau Covers
    Tonneau covers come in many shapes, sizes, and covers. You’ll want to find one that strikes a good balance between its durability, size, safety features, and price point. Below, we’ll cover the main areas of interest you should consider when purchasing a tonneau cover.
    Size
    Even if you have a tonneau cover with all the right features, it won’t work well unless the size is suited for your truck bed. If it’s too small or too large, it won’t provide adequate protection or fit correctly over your bed.
    Our reviews make sure to highlight sizing options so that you know what you’re buying is sure to fit your truck model specifically. You can also click through to the Amazon product listings in our reviews and enter your truck’s model details to quick-check the size.
    If you have bed rail caps, truck bed liners, or anything else that impacts sizing dimensions, you’ll need to make sure the cover you choose can accommodate these, too.
    Safety Features
    Many people want a tonneau cover to know that their items are safe in the back of their truck when left unattended. A lot of roll up covers have a clamp or Velcro strap to hold them in place, but some covers come with locks and better features. These covers will give you better peace of mind when you leave your truck unattended, knowing that it’s safe from theft.
    Installation
    While roll up covers are easy to use when they’re installed, getting started with them is another story. Soft covers may only need clamps and fasteners, but hard covers require you to mount, secure, and align several different components to get the cover onto the truck bed safely. You can read more about the installation process here.
    Material
    The material that makes up your roll up cover determines how much protection your items get, both from potential thieves and from the outdoor elements. Some softer materials can offer waterproofing, and harder materials can offer more protection from theft. The material may also impact the cover’s durability and overall sturdiness, which we note in our reviews.
    Waterproofing
    If you live in a climate where rainfall is an issue, it may be worth paying extra for a waterproof (or at least water-resistant) tonneau cover. As well as the lining itself, some options come with water-resistant seals to help ensure your possessions are kept safe in all weather conditions. Where this is the case, it’s always noted within our reviews.
    Price
    The price of the tonneau covers can range from affordable to very expensive. Some covers (often soft covers) can be found under $300 and will keep your items from falling off the truck bed, though they may not be as durable. Others range from $300-$1000, with a good mix of soft and hard covers. A few covers over $1000 have extra security features and offer the most protection.
    Now that you know what to consider, here are the best roll up tonneau covers available today.

    Top 10 Best Roll Up Tonneau Covers 2020
    1. Best Overall Roll Up Tonneau Cover: Tyger Auto T1 Soft Cover

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    Why we like it: Everything you need from a basic tonneau cover. It has water-sealing properties to keep your items dry and a secure latching system to keep all your items safe in your truck bed.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Soft
    Material: Marine-grade vinyl, aluminum powder coated rails
    Sizes: 5’6”, 6’6”, 8’0”
    Weight: 25 lbs.
    Waterproofing: Water-resistant and watertight
    For an all-around solid option, the Tyger Auto T1 Soft Roll Up might be the best option. The cover is sturdy and durable, evident by the limited lifetime warranty offered by the company. In addition, it comes with special weathertight sealing strips so that your items stay safe and dry in the truck bed, no matter how wet the outside environment is.
    The latch lock and tension system that comes with this cover is enough to keep your items secure, while the material is durable and hard for thieves to cut through. Installation shouldn’t take more than 30 minutes, and the built-in crossbars keep the product stable and secure when you’re using it. However, since this is vinyl, you may want to use Tyger’s own vinyl cleanser rather than just using soap.
    The rails do extend a little above the bed rails, which can take away from the overall appearance. It also covers the stake pocket holes, so you won’t be able to use it with a ladder rack or side rails. However, by covering all the stake pocket holes, you end up with a watertight tonneau cover that’s capable of keeping all outside elements out when you’re on your next road trip.

    Pros
    Limited lifetime warranty
    Weathertight sealing strips keep items dry in the truck bed
    The latch lock and tension system is secure
    Easy installation which takes around 30 minutes
    Built-in crossbars add to the strength of the tonneau cover

    Cons
    Covers the stake pocket holes
    Rails extend slightly above the bed rails

    2. Best Budget Roll Up Tonneau Cover: MaxMate Soft Roll Up Cover

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    Why we like it: The MaxMate cover does its job without costing a fortune, keeping your valuables safe in your truck bed. It’s durable and with a 10-year warranty, you won’t have to worry about spending money on another for at least a decade.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Soft
    Material: Marine-grade vinyl
    Sizes: 5’8”, 6’6”
    Weight:4 lbs.
    Waterproofing: Water-resistant but not waterproof
    If you’re looking for an affordable option that’ll last you a while, the MaxMate roll up cover is right up your alley. It comes with a 10-year warranty, so you can be sure the brand owners know their cover is durable enough to last. In addition, the cover is strong when locked, making sure that nothing will fall out as you drive. Unfortunately, while this is a great deal, it comes in very limited sizes, so you may not be able to find one that fits your truck bed.
    It’s made out of marine-grade vinyl that can hold its own against the elements. However, while the material itself is water-resistant, the lack of seals means that water can end up getting into the truck bed. While you can buy some stake hole plugs to keep water from leaking in, it is an extra cost that you’ll need to consider.
    The side rails themselves are also a bit bulky, which can take away from the overall look of your truck. If you are concerned about the appearance, you can opt for a sleeker tonneau cover such as the TruXedo TruXport roll up.
    It’s easy to install, like many other tonneau covers, and comes with aircraft-grade aluminum side rails that’ll keep it stable and secure. In addition, the vinyl itself remains wrinkle-free and won’t shrink or warp after months of use. As with many other covers, it’s also smooth enough to save you a bit on gas mileage.

    Pros
    Affordable and sturdy option
    10-year warranty
    Locks securely over the truck bed
    Aircraft-grade aluminum side rails
    Vinyl remains wrinkle-free and won’t warp

    Cons
    Doesn’t come in all sizes
    Water can slip into the truck bed
    Side rails are bulky

    3. Most Secure: Gator ETX Soft Roll Up Cover

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    Why we like it: If you don’t want to worry about your valuables falling out of your truck bed, the Gator ETX roll up cover is perfect. With adjustable tension controls and sturdy clamps, this cover is sure to keep all of your items safe.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Soft
    Material: Industrial strength leather-grain vinyl
    Sizes: 5’8”, 6’6”, 8”
    Weight: 27 lbs.
    Waterproofing: Water-resistant, not completely waterproof
    The Gator ETX soft roll up clamps onto your truck securely enough that you can be sure your items won’t fall out. With an inside mount process and a no-drill install, this cover sits low and unobtrusively over your truck bed, adding to the overall look. In addition, it also comes with adjustable tension controls to help you get the most secure fit over your truck bed.
    The cover itself is made in the USA, which speaks to the high-quality materials sourced for its production. In addition, the special design of this cover also includes 2 crossbars, which increase its strength, both against thieves and items that could fly out as you’re driving. To add to the quality, it also comes with a lifetime warranty on the frame and a 10-year warranty for the tarp itself.
    This tonneau cover may be all you need for the next decade! If you want a slightly cheaper roll up cover that also has a 10-year warranty, you should consider the MaxMate soft roll up cover. However, keep in mind the hook and loop rail closures are not as durable as the rest of the cover and can be easily damaged over time. In addition, some water can also leak into the truck bed, since soft covers don’t protect as well against water when compared to hard covers, like the BAK Revolver X2 Hard Rolling Cover.

    Pros
    Secure clamps with adjustable tension control
    High-quality ingredients sourced from the USA
    Lifetime warranty on frame
    10-year warranty for the tarp
    Two crossbars increase the strength and security of cover

    Cons
    Hook and rail closures aren’t durable
    Some water may leak into the truck bed

    4. Best Premium Roll Up Tonneau Cover: BAK Revolver X2 Hard Rolling Cover

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    Why we like it: The BAK Revolver X2 hard rolling cover covers all bases, from strength to security. Made from aluminum slats and accompanied by its auto latching mechanism, your valuables are certainly safe in the back of your truck bed.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Hard
    Material: Gloss vinyl and aluminum slats
    Sizes: 5’9”, 6’7”, 8’2”
    Weight: 81 lbs.
    Waterproofing: Comes with a rubber seal, waterproof
    The BAK Revolver X2 cover comes with everything you might want, from its sturdy construction to the way it automatically locks onto the side of the bed as you roll it down. It’s durable, and the aluminum slats are also lined with rubber at the end to create a weatherproof seal.
    While this is definitely on the pricier side, the quality and level of protection are hard for soft covers to match. However, keep in mind that this cover only comes with a 3-year warranty, so you’ll want to take good care of it when you have it.
    In addition, the rubber seal that it arrives with is not as sturdy for waterproofing, but you can easily buy your own water seal to completely waterproof the truck bed. The material itself is water-resistant and high quality, much stronger than any of the soft covers. If you want a waterproof cover from the start, take a look at the TruXedo TruXport roll up.
    Like other hard covers, this one is also a fair bit heavier and bulkier than traditional soft cover roll ups. However, with it comes increased security without you having to shell out thousands of dollars for a hard folding cover. In addition, you’ll be able to roll it completely out of the way for full truck bed access when you need to get something.
    The aluminum construction of the cover also means that it can withstand up to 400 lbs. of weight on top, something far greater than what any soft cover can withstand.

    Pros
    Aluminum slats lined with rubber for waterproofing
    More sturdy and durable than soft covers
    Increased security
    Cheaper than hard folding and retractable tonneau covers
    Can withstand 400 lbs. of weight on top

    Cons
    May need to invest in a better rubber seal
    Only has a 3-year warranty
    Heavier and bulkier than soft covers

    5. Most Durable: TruXedo TruXport Roll Up Cover

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    Why we like it: If you want a roll up cover to lasts you years, the TruXedo TruXport soft cover is the right option for you. Made with leather-grained fabric, this cover is durable and won’t wrinkle or shrink over months of usage.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Soft
    Material: Commercial grade leather-grain vinyl
    Sizes: 5’8”, 6’6”, 8’0”
    Weight: 26 lbs.
    Waterproofing: Water-resistant material
    The TruXedo TruXport roll up cover is made with high-quality leather-grained fabric and is designed to last. This fabric also protects your valuables and possessions from most weather elements without increasing the weight of the cover. In addition, the material not only adds to the strength of the cover, but it also adds to the overall sleek and stylish aesthetic.
    However, keep in mind that it’s not completely waterproof, and some water may leak into your truck bed. If you are concerned about water getting into the truck bed, your safest option would be the oEdRo roll up cover.
    On the bright side, the material itself isn’t prone to warping or shrinking when wet and holds up under rain or snow. It also has dual paddle latches at the ends that can keep your tailgate in a locked position whenever the cover is closed, adding an extra level of security. Best of all, the cover is made in the USA, so you’re helping out the economy with your purchase.
    One installation perk that jumps out is the pre-set tension controls added to the dual latching system. Adjusting the tension is one of the hardest parts of the installation process, and TruXedo takes care of that for you. However, when you are installing, to get the perfect fit, you may need to install the cover lower than the guideline provided in the instruction manual.

    Pros
    Made with high-quality leather-grained fabric
    Dual paddle latches at ends add extra security
    Doesn’t shrink or warp when exposed to rain and snow
    Made in the USA
    Pre-set tension controls make installation easier

    Cons
    Not fully waterproof
    Water may leak into the truck bed from the sides
    May need to install lower in the truck bed to get the right fit

    6. Lowest Maintenance: Lund Genesis Elite Roll Up Cover

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    Why we like it: The Lund Genesis Elite cover is very hands-off, especially when it comes to care and maintenance and. You can use normal soap and water without needing to invest in special cleaners, and the cover itself is resistant to most outdoor elements.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Soft
    Material: Twill-weave matte canvas
    Sizes: 5’7”, 6’4”, 8’0”
    Weight: 25 lbs.
    Waterproofing: Water-resistant material
    Tonneau covers can be hard to clean and maintain, but the Lund Genesis Elite cover takes care of that for you. You can wash it with basic soap and water without needing to invest in any extra specialist cleaners. The twill-weave material is resistant to water, mold, mildew, UV, dirt, and dust, so you won’t have to worry about cleaning it often, either. Once you get it set up, you can go a while before needing to deep clean the cover.
    There’s a single latch mechanism that’s easy to use with this cover when you need to get it up or down. It’s also low profile, meaning it’s mounted inside the truck bed and won’t interfere with your current truck design and appearance. Paired with its resistance to dirt and grime, you have a cover that looks good almost all year round!
    However, the material does start to shrink and warp after a few months of use. While most soft covers may end up having this problem in the long run, you can avoid it by investing in a hard cover such as the BAK Revolver cover.
    In addition, the tension adjustment during installation can be difficult to get right, and the cover itself may not fit perfectly on your truck. Make sure you check the amazon style guide to check that the specifications fit your truck well. In addition, while the material is water-resistant, the seams do not have special waterproof sealing, so water may be able to get in if you didn’t install it securely.

    Pros
    Only need soap and water to clean
    Resistant to most outdoor elements
    The single latch mechanism is easy to use and roll up
    Twill cover is water-resistant
    Low profile and black cover matches with all truck designs

    Cons
    Material shrinks or warps after a few months of use
    No waterproof sealing
    Tension adjustment can be difficult to get right

    7. Best Weather Resistance: oEdRo Roll Up Truck Bed Cover

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    Why we like it: The oEdRo tonneau cover can keep your items from getting damaged by outside elements with their included weather strip.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Soft
    Material: Double layer PVC
    Sizes:8 ft., 6.5 ft.
    Weight: 27 lbs.
    Waterproofing: Made of waterproof material
    The oEdRo tonneau cover specifically aims to keep your items safe from the outside environment, with an included weather strip for sealing. The material it’s made of is entirely waterproof, and the weather strip keeps dust, rain, and snow from getting onto your truck bed. If you have any delicate items you’re transporting that you can’t afford to get wet, this option is for you.
    It also comes with dual tailgate paddle latches that can only be opened when you open the tailgate first. This adds an extra layer of protection against people who may try to break into your truck bed.
    The cover is also designed to be slim, so you can save up to 12 percent on gas costs when using it, and it comes with a limited lifetime warranty, so it’s definitely built to last.
    In addition, oEdRo simplifies the installation process by providing aluminum quick clamps to secure the rails to the truck bed. However, the clamps do come with rubber protectors that make installation a little trickier to latch on and adjust correctly.
    The directions for the installation process can also be confusing to read, so if you want a cover that’s easier to install, try the Tonno Lo Roll cover. The width of the cover itself is also a little too large for some trucks, so make sure you use the amazon sizing guide.

    Pros
    Weather strip protects your valuables from the environment
    Made of waterproof material with special seals
    Dual tailgate paddle latches for added security
    Save up to 12 percent on gas due to slim design
    Limited lifetime warranty

    Cons
    Installation with clamps can be difficult
    The instruction manual is hard to understand
    The width is a little too large for some trucks

    8. Most Protective: TruXedo Sentry CT Cover

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    Why we like it: If you’re worried about your valuables being stolen, the TruXedo Sentry CT hard roll up cover is the perfect choice for you. Aluminum slats are bonded to the heavy-duty woven fabric, making it difficult for anyone to cut through the cover.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Hard
    Material: Woven fabric and aluminum slats
    Sizes: 5’8”, 6’6”, 6’7”, 8’0”
    Weight: 75 lbs.
    Waterproofing: Water-resistant but not watertight
    While it’s a little more expensive than other options, this truck cover offers significantly more protection for your valuables. The hard cover is difficult for thieves to cut through, especially with the pressure-bonded aluminum slats on the underside of the black fabric.
    In addition, installation isn’t difficult as you’ll just need to mount this to the inside of your truck bed. However, when compared to the installation for soft covers such as the Tonno Lo Roll cover, you’ll notice it takes more effort to get this cover completely set up.
    However, while this material is durable, it’s not completely waterproof like the other options. Some water may leak in from time to time as there are no water-resistant seals. In addition, the added aluminum slats make this cover heavier, so it may also be harder to roll up with one hand. You’ll also have to take good care of the cover since it is so expensive.
    While it is heavy to manually roll up, the quick release system added to this truck does help you out slightly, letting you remove the entire cover when activated. In addition, the cover is completely blacked out with a matte finish, which pairs well with any truck you might have.
    Finally, there’s one more extra security latch at the center of the cover that helps with protection and keeping your cargo safe when you drive.

    Pros
    Strong and durable
    Hard for thieves to cut through material
    Matte black finish pairs well with all trucks
    Quick-release system opens cover quickly
    Extra security latch keeps cargo safe during transportation

    Cons
    On the pricier side
    No water-resistant seals
    Much heavier than other options

    9. Best for Cold Weather: North Mountain Soft Vinyl Roll-Up

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: The North Mountain tonneau cover is still pliable and easy to roll up, even when the weather gets chilly. The material is tear-resistant and doesn’t get brittle, with epoxy coated aluminum rails to improve durability.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Soft
    Material: Double-sided vinyl tarp and aluminum frame
    Sizes: See Amazon sizing guide
    Weight:7 lbs.
    Waterproofing: Improved water runoff design
    Some tonneau covers are difficult to roll up when it gets cold, becoming more brittle and prone to tears. However, North Mountain’s cover is just as easy to roll up in cold weather, barely changing no matter how extreme the temperature gets. After all, it’s specifically designed to be tear-resistant, no matter the weather. The aluminum rails also have an epoxy coating to help against lower temperatures.
    However, keep in mind that this cover only has a 3-year warranty. If you want a soft roll up cover with a longer warranty, you should definitely consider the Tyger Auto T1 option.
    The design also has you covered when it comes to waterproofing and usability. It sits on top of the installed rails to allow the water to run off without getting into the truck bed. In addition, with connecting crossbars and low profile bows, it’s easy to roll up the tarp whenever you need to get full access to your truck bed. The installation itself isn’t too difficult, with easy clamps for assistance.
    With that being said, you may need more tools to get the cover set up. You may want a hex key wrench to adjust the tension of the cover so that it stays in place. The crossbars also aren’t always secure in their elastic sleeves, so you may have to be mindful not to drive too quickly down the interstate.

    Pros
    Flexible and tear-resistant in cold weather
    Aluminum rails have an epoxy coating
    Improved water runoff design
    Crossbars allow for easy roll up of cover
    Easy to install

    Cons
    Only a three-year warranty
    Crossbars can be loose in their elastic sleeves
    Need a hex key to adjust the tension

    10. Easiest to Set-Up Tonneau Cover: Tonno Lo Roll

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: The Tonno Lo Roll truck cover is fast and simple to install, a one-man job that takes under an hour.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Soft
    Material: Double-sided vinyl tarp
    Sizes: 5’5”, 6’5”, 8’0”
    Weight: 36 lbs.
    Waterproofing: Water-resistant seals
    The Tonno Lo Roll tonneau cover is easy to install in just minutes, perfect if you don’t want to spend an afternoon getting the details of the tonneau cover down. It comes with heavy-duty clamps that are simple to align and get right the first time, with no drilling or cutting required. All you might need is a 17mm socket, a ratchet, and some clamps to hold the side rails in place during installation.
    The material is created from a tear-resistant black tarp and double-sided vinyl for improved durability. The tarp itself is waterproof, and the added water-resistance seals keep your items from getting wet when it drizzles. In addition, it’s also pliable and makes rolling up the cover quick and easy, giving you full access to your truck bed at a moment’s notice. It also comes with a Limited Lifetime Policy, this cover’s form of warranty.
    Unfortunately, over the course of a few months, the Velcro holding the cover in place becomes loose due to UV exposure, which is bad if you live in a sunny location. If you want a more durable option, you should consider the TruXedo TruXport roll up.
    For this tonneau cover, you may have to resew the Velcro straps yourself once you see signs of tearing. In addition, the warranty doesn’t cover normal wear-and-tear. However, you can avoid some of these problems by keeping your truck out of the sun when not in use.

    Pros
    Fast installation in minutes
    Needs very few outside materials for installation
    Comes with water-resistant seals
    Easy to roll up and use
    Limited Lifetime Policy

    Cons
    Velcro disintegrates and becomes loose over months of use
    Becomes damaged from too much UV exposure
    Warranty doesn’t cover wear-and-tear issues

    Guide to Picking the Perfect Roll Up Tonneau Cover
    When it comes to your truck, you want the best tonneau cover for keeping your items safe and secure when you’re driving on the interstate or when you leave the truck unattended. Below, we’ll get into the nitty-gritty details for tonneau covers, so you know exactly what to look for and what to avoid.
    Types of Tonneau Covers
    When it comes to tonneau covers, you have more than just the roll up covers covered in this guide. While roll up covers are the most inexpensive and beginner-friendly, we’ll cover some of the basics below for the main categories of flat tonneau covers.
    Roll Up Covers
    Roll up covers are the least expensive and the quickest to install. These usually just need a few clamps, with no drilling necessary and very little setup time. However, they also offer the least protection and durability out of all the tonneau covers, evident with their lower price point. If this is your first tonneau cover, roll ups may be the safest option for you to test out.
    Folding Covers
    Folding covers often come in a tri-fold design, though some may have more or fewer folds. They take up slightly more space when folded up, but they’re good if you plan on carrying higher cargo that rises above the truck bed, and you need for your truck bed to be exposed to air. They’re also sturdy and can be extra secure when your truck has a locking tailgate.
    Retractable Covers
    Retractable tonneau covers are the most expensive and retract into a canister that’s located at the front of the truck bed. They can be made from vinyl, aluminum, or other strong materials, and provide the most security for your truck bed. These covers can also be secured when they’re only partially open, which the other types can’t do.
    The Benefits of Tonneau Covers
    Not sure why you should invest in a roll up tonneau cover? Here are some of the top benefits that they provide!
    Theft Protection
    The primary reason is to keep your possessions safe, even when you’re not around your truck. While normal cars have trunks to store your valuables, your truck bed is open to the world, and anyone walking past can easily reach over and steal some of your items. To keep your things safe, a tonneau cover is the way to go. Our favorite tonneau cover for protection would be the BAK Revolver cover.
    Organization
    While it may sound odd, getting one of these tonneau covers makes it easier to keep your items organized in the truck bed. Because the cover protects against the wind, your things won’t shift around in the truck bed nearly as much, and you’ll find them in the same position when you finally arrive at your destination to make unpacking that much easier.
    Keeping Items Safe During Transportation
    If you’re planning on transporting something fragile, or something on the lighter side, you definitely don’t want your things shifting around on the truck bed as you drive. Tonneau covers keep the wind from knocking your things over and into one another.
    Even better, it keeps your items from flying off the truck bed when you suddenly stop or start your vehicle! Your items are as secure in your truck bed as they would be in a traditional car truck. One tonneau cover that does that really well is the Gator ETX cover.
    Better Gas Mileage
    It might sound strange, but investing in tonneau covers can improve your mileage by up to 10%. With the cover, there’s much less air resistance when you’re speeding along the highway, and this definitely adds up over time. Once the truck bed is covered, it won’t generate as much air drag, and the covers are even designed with this idea in mind. In our experience, the oEdRo roll up cover does this really well.
    Resale Value
    The resale value of your truck can increase when you install one of these tonneau covers, which can be a real benefit if you ever plan on selling your truck. Because the covers offer extra protection, you can think of them as another investment that you’ve made for your vehicle. Buyers will appreciate the already installed cover, and a cover could end up earning you some more money come selling time.
    Privacy
    With a roll up tonneau cover, you’ll have an opaque cover over the truck bed so that people can’t tell what you’re carrying around. Perfect if you don’t like the idea of the world seeing the things you may put in your truck bed
    Installing Roll Up Tonneau Covers
    After choosing the perfect tonneau cover, installing it is the most important step to keep it secure on your truck. You’ll want to open your tailgate first to make the process easier in the long run. The process can be difficult, and it’s best not to complicate it any further.
    If you have a soft tonneau cover, you can simply attach the clamps and straps to the locations marked in the instructions manual. However, hard roll up tonneau covers require some more work from you. With hard covers, you’ll need to follow these steps.
    If your tonneau cover has side rails, clamp them in place, either on the outside or inside. Be careful, as this step will determine the overall stability of your cover.
    Ready the rubber seal next to keep elements from getting in.
    Add additional Velcro to make the cover even steadier.
    Unroll the cover tarp from the rear cab towards the tailgate.
    Care and Maintenance for Tonneau Covers
    Tonneau covers can be expensive, so you want to make sure that you take proper care of yours. While different materials need different levels of maintenance, you’ll want to regularly clean your tonneau cover, whether with water and soap or with specialized cleaning products.
    For example, vinyl covers may need special vinyl cleaners, and covers with several moving parts will need you to check every few months to make sure nothing has come loose. For other materials, water and mild soap will suffice for cleaning unless the instruction and installation guide for the cover says otherwise.
    Check that the clamps, bolts, and mounting equipment are still in place and haven’t budged. In addition, you’ll want to examine the cover overall to look for nicks, bumps, spots of corrosion, or any other imperfections. These covers can be large and heavy, so small issues can build up over time and end up ruining the cover.
    Finally, to keep the cover in top condition, you’ll want to make sure not to leave heavy objects and equipment on top of the cover. Especially if you have a soft cover, doing this will cause it to sag and become damaged over time. Your instructions manual will likely have a maximum weight that can be put on it, so consult the guide first.
    Some tonneau covers require less maintenance than others, such as the Lund Genesis Elite. Others, such as the BAK Revolver cover require a bit more care from you.
    Final Thoughts
    Getting a roll up tonneau cover is the perfect way to keep your items safe and increase your truck’s value without having to spend a fortune. It gets the job done, and the higher-quality roll ups can be used for years without becoming damaged.
    Once you get past the installation phase, you’re good to go. No matter how intense your next road trip or expedition, a tonneau cover makes sure all your things are safe in the truck bed. More

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    The 10 Best Spray Paint for Rims to Buy 2020

    What is the most cost-efficient way to completely overhaul the look of your vehicle? Painting and restoring your rims. Daily wear and tear can undermine the aesthetics of everything from a highly-modified import to a classic American muscle car. Wheel rash, scratches, and chips all contribute to a reduced visual appeal.
    In this guide, we will explain how to fix these issues, which paints should be used on the rims after restoration, and how to best care for your wheels into the future.

    Factors to Consider in Rim Paint
    When choosing the perfect accent for your ride, color ultimately comes down to personal preference. Some people may love a bright neon pink finish while others will despise it. We are not going to be evaluating which colors are aesthetically pleasing. Instead, this section is specifically about quantitative specifications that identify the great paints from the subpar.
    What Do I Need?
    To paint your rims, you will need a primer, which can also act as the main coat, and then, after sanding your rims, applying a base coat and a clear coat to finalize the look. You don’t have to use a primer, but you’ll get a better result if you do.
    We’ve included all three types in our list, and some can do multiple jobs – we’ll note in the reviews which. In our full buyer’s guide, we detail the whole process from start to finish.
    Color/Finish
    When we think of color, we generally think, “Which color? While the literal paint tone is essential, when we say color in this section, we refer to the individual colors’ brilliance or uniqueness.
    Is all that glitters gold? There are many varieties of gold on the market. Color is always going to be somewhat objective, but there is a mainstream appreciation of what makes a good finish stand out from the crowd.
    Color matching is a huge deal for many car owners. Let’s take a 2019 Hyundai IONIQ as an example. It has a rose gold accent on the interior and the exterior of the vehicle. While yes, any rose gold should be close, a company like Dupli-color makes specific paints that accurately match OEM colors, including accents.
    Quality
    Consistency, few streaks, and not requiring too many coats – as well as having a decent aerosol delivery system – are the hallmarks of good quality paint. Most paints will look good if a pro uses them. The real test of quality is how it looks when used by an amateur.
    Quality also encompasses the ease of use and how well the product performs. For example, some paints are incredibly cheap but have very poor quality assurance on the nozzle, cap, and even color intensity. We will not be recommending these brands because they are notorious for being inconsistent, and the minor savings will not equal the time you may take to repaint or wait for an exchange.
    Durability
    One of the most critical factors that differentiate brands and finishes apart from each other is durability. Resistance to water, chips, heat, and other environmental hazards are all aspects of durability.
    There is a reason why you should not use just any paint on your rims. Certain paints are resistant to a very high temperature, which is vital due to the extreme heat generated by your brakes and calipers. This is also true as far as water and environmental factors are concerned. Paint on the exterior of your car must be waterproof and weather-proof; otherwise, it will peel, bubble, and crack, and that is not a look anyone is going for.
    The final factor when it comes to durability is chip or scratch resistance. Most automotive paints have very high damage resistance. Rim paint is no different.
    Cost
    The average can of wheel paint costs you around $10. Some manufacturers offer entry-level paints at about $5 a can price point, but others can range up to approximately $30 a can. Overall, the cost is usually in line with quality and durability, but not in every case. We will clarify when a product is an excellent deal.
    With those factors in mind, let’s get your wheels spinning with our favorite car paints on the market.

    Top 10 Best Spray Paint for Rims 2020
    1. Best Overall Rim Paint: Dupli-Color Paint

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    Why we like it: Dupli-color offers a highly accurate color match and an excellent quality finish for a price that should be in almost anyone’s budget.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Size: 12 oz Cans, Single, or 6 Pack
    Colors: Bronze, Graphite, Black, Gold, Alloy, White, Copper, Rose Gold, Silver
    Finish: Matte, Metallic, Gloss, Primer
    Dupli-color was founded in 1938 by US Army Lt. Colonel Sigmund E. Edelstone. The colonel had an innovative idea to offer automotive paint perfectly matched to OEM paints. Starting from his garage, he purchased the paints from Sherwin-Williams and made the products available to his customers. Today, Dupli-color is a Sherwin-Williams company and stays true to its founder’s desire to demand perfection in automotive paint matching.
    This product comes in many different colors, but our personal favorites are the Rose Gold and White. The Rose Gold has a metallic finish that looks so smooth and professional and color-matches many OEM finishes.
    Of all the rim paints available, their White is the best. The flat matte finish on this paint is out of this world. You might be thinking, “Who wants white rims?” However, once you see it, it will be hard to forget.
    The Dupli-color High-Performance Wheel Paint is available in either single 12-ounce cans or a pack of six 12 ounce cans. We would recommend picking up a case as it’s a better deal overall, and you will always have a little bit leftover.
    Duplicolor High Performance is easy to use and easy to spray correctly. They have one of the best quality assurance systems on the market, with very few nozzle failures or clogs.
    It is almost always cheaper to buy a six-pack than buying three cans, which is somewhat shocking. It is a positive for those who will be painting a full set of wheels, though, because the discount found on the six-packs allow you to not worry about running out of paint.
    Overall, Dupli-color has fulfilled Lt. Colonel Edelstone’s dream of perfectly matched automotive paints. The quality and colors are unmatched by any other automotive paint manufacturer, and the value and QA are top-notch. We highly recommend Dupli-color High-Performance Wheel Paints as the best overall rim paint.

    Pros
    Color Match
    Great Quality
    Many Colors/Finishes

    2. Best Primer: Dupli-Color Scratch Filler & Primer

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    Why we like it: Perfect Filler and Primer 2-in-1 that can deal with minor surface imperfections before base coats.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Size: 11 oz. Cans, Single
    Colors: Gray, Red
    Finish: Primer
    Dupli-color comes in again with a fantastic product meant to meet the needs of most amateur painters. Available in either gray or red, this primer will work on almost any potential base coat color. The gray version is slightly more expensive as it is more universal, but both options should fulfill your needs.
    It is sometimes harder to determine how good a primer is just by looking at it. This product stands out from the rest of the market to consistently get complete coverage with very few downsides. This filler and primer are rust-resistant and are usable on high heat applications such as wheels and brake calipers.
    What sets this product apart from the other primers is its inherent ability not to dry out before you are done with your project. This primer has a slightly longer dry time, and that is a good thing. Certain brands use a quick-dry formulation in which the primer will often dry inside the can before you are done, which leads to beading and bubbles on the final product.
    This product is recommended to those who have only minor scratches and imperfections on their wheels. When you can save a bit of money and get a top-performing product, what’s not to love?

    Pros
    Filler & Primer
    Great Quality
    Long Dry

    Cons
    No Black Option

    3. Best Clear Coat: USC Spray Max 2k Aerosol

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    Why we like it: USC Spray Max 2k is a professional product in a rattle can. It can stand up to abuse, providing you allow ample time for the coat to settle.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Size: 2-11.8 oz.Cans
    Colors: Clear
    Finish: Clear Coat
    The USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat is the best clear coat you can buy in a can. It’s as simple as that.
    This clear coat goes on stiff and glossy. It has a bright sheen to the finish that makes it look like it was professionally done. It also has an excellent polishability and can be waxed with very high resistance to abrasion and scratches. This clear coat is rated for up to 500 degrees Celsius and should withstand any heat from brakes or other external factors.
    It is a relatively easy product to use but has one quirk that may lower its overall appeal. When you take off the lid, the first time you use it, you have to push the nozzle down to make the internal compartment break so that the actuator can mix with the urethane inside the can before spraying. Once you do that, you have about 48 hours to use it before it dries out.
    It has a twelve-hour dry time at 20 degrees Celsius, so make sure to do this last before heading to bed. Then in the morning, you can get back out there to do one more coat. Make sure to follow the directions on the can when applying it.
    We highly recommend letting the wheels sit for 48 hours after clear coating to allow that outer coat to harden without cracks or environmental hazards.

    Pros
    Best Canned Clear Coat
    Great Quality
    Combo 2-Pack

    Cons
    Long Dry Time
    Complicated Instructions

    4. Best Premium Wheel Paint: VHT High-Temperature

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    Why we like it: VHT offers a top of the line wheel paint that rivals expensive automotive grade paint only available from manufacturers.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Size: 11oz Cans, Single, or 6 Pack
    Colors: Gloss Clear, Aluminum, Chevy Rally Silver, Gloss Black, Graphite, Satin Black, Matte Clear, Ford Argent Silver
    Finish: Clear, Base, Gloss, Matte
    VHT offers an easy to use, matte or gloss base coat and clear coat that will rival OE manufacturers’ rivals. This paint is best when used in conjunction with our guide below.
    As far as the color and finish options, VHT leaves a bit to be desired. The limited selection may sway people to choose a different product. However, those who do choose VHT will have at least two color-matches available in Chevy Rally Silver and Ford Argent Silver.
    This paint is resistant up to 250 degrees Fahrenheit and has built-in resistances to chips and cracks. It is specifically formulated to be used on wheels. It can be used on either steel or aluminum wheels and will rejuvenate the look of your car. Durability is a concern with paint exposed to the elements, and VHT offers the highest quality paint that we could find for this specific application.
    There is one additional downside to using VHT over other brands is the price. While it is a top competitor, the color selection, in addition to its price, leaves it in the premium category.

    Pros
    Above Average Color-Match
    High Durability
    Great Dry Time

    Cons
    Expensive
    Few Color Options

    5. Plasti Dip Luxury Metal Spray

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    Why we like it: Plasti Dip offers a beginner-friendly luxury grade finish that is non-permanent and a great way to learn how to paint automotive parts and wheels.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Size: 2-11oz Cans w/Cangun
    Colors: Aintree Green, Black Sapphire, Glacier White, Limegold Metallic, Satin White Aluminum, Selenite Gray, Ultrasonic Blue, Volcanic Red
    Finish: Base, Metallic, Matte
    Plasti Dip has a mixed reputation; you either love it or hate it. It is most well known for being used to “wrap” cars in a semi-permanent paint and has been the topic of discussion for many automotive purists since its release.
    One of the most significant advantages of using Plasti Dip over conventional paint is that it is removable and is an extra layer of protection between the natural environment and the exposed metal on wheels.
    There are many different colors available in their luxury lineup, which, as far as we are concerned, is more of a marketing term than an upgrade over their existing products. To be entirely fair, they have expanded their canned line-up for this product specifically, so it is advertised.
    Of all their color and finish options, the Aintree Green is incredibly vibrant. It would fit the aesthetic of an old school Jeep or off-road 4×4. It has a slight “pebbling” found in almost all Plasti Dip paints and looks good in green. Another top pick would be Volcanic Red, which is brilliant. It has a decent amount of brightness built in to make your wheels stand out from everyone else out there.
    The best part about using Plasti Dip aside from the removability is the increased durability and protection. Different from almost every other paint on the market, the coating that is applied ends up being slightly rubberized and, in turn, allows for a little bit more action before scraping or chipping.
    When using Plasti Dip, you do not need to sand and prime your wheels unless you want the coating to be permanent. We recommend coating one wheel to see if you like the finish, and if you do, peel, then sand and prime.
    One final thing that needs to be said about any Plasti Dip product, cleaning, and prep, is even more critical than standard paint. This is because it adheres to the metal rather than melding with it. Ensuring that you follow all the steps and take your time will significantly increase the finished product’s overall appeal.

    Pros
    Great Price
    High Durability
    Removable/Non-Permanent
    Unique Look

    Cons
    Non-Permanent
    Requires Careful Prep

    6. Best Budget Wheel Paint: Krylon Automotive Sandable Primer

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    Why we like it: If you are looking for a budget-friendly primer and base Krylon is your best bet for quality and consistency.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Size: 12 oz Cans, Single
    Colors: White Primer, Black Primer, Black Acrylic Enamel, Gray Primer, Green Primer, Red Rusty Primer, Silver Base
    Finish: Primer, Base, Matte, Gloss
    One of the most well-known paint companies in the United States today has to be Krylon. It has been the budget rattle can option of everyone from your grandma to the neighbor kids spraying their name on the side of the McDonald’s bathroom stall. Their wheel paint is no exception to their budget-friendly lineup.
    While they don’t offer many base coat options, they have a handful of hard to find primer colors, specifically Green and their Rusty Red. These would be great for both of the Plasti Dip base coats if you decide to make them permanent.
    If you are looking to save money on paint and primer, this is the best option. It is a fantastic option for people on tight budgets who still want that new look. There have been issues with the nozzles being less than perfect, leaving drips and drying out quickly. But aside from minor inconveniences and the lack of base coat options, Krylon offers a good product.
    There’s not much that separates this line from their standard paint line other than slightly increased heat resistance. If their primers were compared to food, they would be spaghetti without sauce. There is absolutely nothing wrong with how they perform, but they miss the part that completes them. They have a 2-in-1 filler primer that is their best product by far and feels like the chef finally decided to add the sauce to your primer-y noodles.
    Overall, Krylon offers a good product line when it comes to automotive primers. They are not going to impress you or your neighbors, but they will do what they are meant to do. The lack of options on base coat colors is pulling this line down, but the ones that are offered are adequate.

    Pros
    Great Price
    Obscure Primer Colors
    Brand Recognition

    Cons
    Only One 2-in-1 Option
    Only 2 Base Colors
    QA Issues

    7. Dupli-Color HWP103 Clear High Performance

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    Why we like it: Dupli-Color offers a top-tier clear coat at a reasonable price that often flies under the radar of casual buyers.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Size: 12 oz Cans, Single, 6-Pack
    Colors: Clear
    Finish: Clear Coat
    Dupli-Color is back again, this time with their High-Performance Clear Coat. It appears that the company decided to make this outstanding clear coat available at a reasonably competitive price.
    Though many companies produce clear coats, very few are genuinely spectacular; this is one exception to the rule. They get to sell more products, and you can get a professional-grade clear coat for a fraction of the initial cost.
    This paint has a sheen gloss that is virtually unmatched in the market; it looks great, is smooth to the touch, and offers a little more bling than other brands do. The most important factor that truly sets this apart from even our top pick for clear coats is the overall durability of this coating has.
    Durability can be hard to quantifiably measure without damaging your wheels. However, one statistic is often overlooked on clear coats, and that is their temperature resistance. Most readily available automotive clear coats have a maximum temperature ceiling of between 200 and 250 degrees Fahrenheit. This paint has a ceiling of closer to 500 degrees, which allows it to be used on both wheels and brake calipers, engine parts, and other high-temperature applications.
    We recommend that if you plan to use a Dupli-Color base coat, you should probably use this clear coat as well. If you’re not using Dupli-color, then the Spray Max will still be the better product if you have no intention of using it within a high-temperature application.

    Pros
    Perfect Gloss Sheen
    Hard & Durable
    Works Great with Dupli Color Base Coats

    Cons
    Difficult Application
    Dries Too Quickly In Heat

    8. VHT SP756 Engine Enamel

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    Why we like it: VHT’s Engine Enamel line has many fascinating and unique colors that can be used as accents on engine parts or wheels.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Size: 11 oz Cans, Single, or 6 Pack
    Colors: Chrysler Hemi Orange, Competition Ford Blue, Gloss Yellow, Grabber Green. Hot Pink, Chevy Orange Red, GM Holden Blue, and many others.
    Finish: Enamel Gloss
    VHT has one of the most diverse lineups of high-temperature automotive paints available today. With over 30 different shades, many of which are color-matched to specific, mostly American, OE manufacturers, you are bound to find the right choice. With a quick dry of around 30 minutes and a complete dry overnight, this might be one of the better options out there.
    However, just like the other offerings by VHT, the price pulls this down slightly and would be a hurdle for some purchasers, especially if you happen to have larger aftermarket wheels.
    This paint has one of the highest-rated temperature resistances of 550 degrees. This is fantastic as a dual-use paint. We especially recommend the 6-packs on this product because of the overall savings per can and because there are so many other potential uses in accenting with this.
    If all you are worried about is how good your wheels will look after a full restoration and paint, this is the paint we would recommend. It has fantastic flaking on the metallic selections. The glossy finishes are reflective, and the few matte options also stand up to scrutiny.
    The biggest downside of this product other than the price is just how massive the paint itself is. The spray feel is slightly different if you do not shake it exceptionally vigorously. This is to be expected with the extreme heat rating. It is just something that may be difficult to adjust to or learn with.
    We recommend this product to people looking for intense colors that don’t mind spending an extra few dollars on a can to get a perfect finish. We would also recommend having some previous automotive painting experience because this paint is not very forgiving and can get goopy if you are not careful. Again, always read the instructions on the can. They do matter and are different from brand to brand.

    Pros
    Quick Dry
    Many Colors Available
    Heavy Coating

    Cons
    Difficult Application
    Expensive
    Requires Extra Prep

    9. Rust-Oleum 260510 Automotive 2 In 1 Primer

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    Why we like it: Rust-Oleum enters with a competitive 2-in-1 primer at a low price with decent coverage.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Size: 12 oz Cans, Single,
    Colors: Gray
    Finish: Primer
    Coming in at under $8 is a huge selling point and one that Rust-Oleum doesn’t want to give up because frankly, in comparison to the other primers available, that’s about all it has going for it. 2-in-1 filler primers have to be good enough to fill those millimeter-sized scratches and give you good coverage. This paint gets the coverage right, but the “filler” seems to be missing or just not the best.
    As you can probably tell, this is not one of the premier primers on the market, but its price does make up for that somewhat. We like products that do exactly what they are advertised to do. This sadly fails on that front. The nozzles on these cans can be drippy and are not high quality.
    However, what keeps this product relevant is its ability to get full coverage with many coats out of this one can. It has a swift drying time of around 10-15 minutes and does an outstanding job for priming darker base coats. The color on the cap is a bit deceiving. The primer itself is quite dark, especially after the three or four recommended coats.
    If you are looking for a cheap primer and don’t care about the filler because either you already filled with Bondo or have new wheels, this is the way to go. Low cost is rarely a good sign for automotive paint, but this does fulfill the needs of priming, just not filling.

    Pros
    Cheap
    Good Coverage
    Quick Dry Time

    Cons
    Filler Doesn’t Work
    Lid Doesn’t Match Color
    Nozzle Drips & Leaks

    10. Plasti Dip Rim Kit

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    Why we like it: Plasti Dip offers an all-in-one package for people looking to do a solid black non-permanent finish on their rims.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Size: 6-11 oz. Cans w/Cangun Grip
    Colors: Black with Glossifier
    Finish: Gloss
    This is an exciting product that could quickly be the best wheel paint in the world or the worst. It depends on what exactly you are looking for. Like other Plasti Dip, this is a removable non-permanent finish that can be peeled off when you are done with the look or are looking to sell your vehicle.
    This specific package comes in just under $55 and includes four cans of their black Plasti Dip spray and two cans of the glossifier, which acts as the clear coat in this application. This will generally be enough for the most common wheel sizes. If you are unsure as to how Plasti Dip works, check out this video by DipYourCar.
    One common complaint relating to this kit is that the glossifier is somewhat inconsistent. Our advice would be the “clear coat” in this instance is entirely optional, although recommended. If you decide that after getting a good solid black coating that you like how it looks, just skip the glossifier as it can, unfortunately, take away from the look it has.
    Remember that this paint product is not permanent. If you mess up, you can peel and try again. This is probably the best option for someone who is just learning how to paint wheels or automotive parts and is worried about ruining something or changing something permanently and regretting it later.
    Overall, this kit, with its added glossifier and Cangun bonus, is impressive. We’d recommend to even complete beginners. Quality, durability, and ease of use is the name of the game that Plasti Dip is playing, and they hit a home-run with this product right here.

    Pros
    Great Price
    High Durability
    Removable/Non-Permanent
    Unique Look

    Cons
    Non-Permanent
    Requires Careful Prep

    Complete Buyers Guide to Spray Paint for Wheels
    You decided you wanted to paint your wheels but then remembered you ran into the curb at McDonald’s at 3 am the other night. It’s okay, ‘tis but a flesh wound. This section will be going over exactly what you need to repair wheel rash, chips, and scratches on your rims to get the best possible paint finish.
    How To: Prep, Repair, Prime, & Paint Rims
    On average, to get your rims professionally refinished and painted, it will cost somewhere between $100-$250 per wheel depending on location and overall wheel condition. This is quite expensive, but the good news is that it will cost you significantly less to do independently.
    On average, if you follow this guide, it will cost around $100-$150 to do a full set of wheels, with a primer, base coat, and clear coat finish. This is much more affordable for the average consumer, but there is one downside, time. Even the most seasoned detailers will spend close to three hours per wheel, not including the time spent in between coats.
    Weekend projects are great time sinks, and painting your wheels is no different. Plan on popping open some cold drinks, ordering some delivery, and spending time perfecting your ride.
    Once you’ve got your primer, base coat and clear coat ready, here’s what else you’ll need.
    Other Tools
    Bondo
    Sandpaper
    Cangun Grip
    Sanding Block
    Gloves
    Face Mask
    Goggles or Safety Glasses
    Index Cards
    Masking Tape
    Prep Your Wheels
    Before starting, you will want to remove any wheel weights with a flathead screwdriver; they should just come off without much hassle.
    Next, if your wheels are separated from your tires, remove the wheel stem using needle-nose pliers. If you have not removed the tires from the rim, that’s fine; just make sure to cover it with some 3M Automotive Masking Tape. Index cards staggered between the lip of the rim, and the tire itself will keep the tire’s sidewall clean.
    Cleaning
    You are going to need to clean the wheels with some soapy water and a towel. Remember to use warm or hot water. Automotive degreaser will also work if there is a lot of dirt and muck on the rims. If you are still having problems removing some excess dirt, a Scotch-Brite or rough sponge may help.
    It is important to clean both sides of your wheel because you wouldn’t want to touch the backside of your rim, get grease or oil on your hands and transfer that to the clean side.
    We recommend painting both sides of your wheels, especially if you are going from black to a different color, as the backside will sometimes be visible.
    More than anything else, don’t rush the cleaning. It will be significantly harder to utilize the Bondo if the rims are still dirty. Make sure the wheels are dry before continuing.
    Repair Your Wheels
    For deep gouges and curb rash, you will need Bondo Metal Filler to fill the indentations and imperfections in the steel or aluminum. However, before you get to the filling, you’re going to want to sand down the wheel.
    Sanding the Wheels
    Start with the deeper gouges and scratches. You’re going to use some 80-grit sandpaper to even out these imperfections. When using the 80-grit, you will want to sand down to the bare metal below the original finish.
    The sanding process must eliminate that gouge. For curb rash, you can use the same 80-grit sandpaper, or if you have a rotary tool with a brush head, that is also very effective.
    Before moving on to the metal filler, make sure you blow off any dust on the surface of the wheel because that may cause inconsistencies in both the paint and the filler.
    Finally, go over the entire surface of the rim with rubbing alcohol and a clean towel. Once you can rub down the wheel with a clean towel and cannot see any excess dirt, then and only then can you proceed to use the filler.
    Using the Filler
    Read the instructions on the container. There is a ratio for the included hardener and the filler that is important to get right but is relatively easy. If you purchased the 3M Bondo Metal Filler, the lid is 3 inches in diameter; this will be used to mix the hardener and filler.
    Put a half-inch (deep) of filler on the lid, make sure it is covered to the lip, and then add the recommended 35 drops of hardener. Now you can knead it back and forth with the included mini-spatula and spread it out. The Bondo will generally harden after about 20-30 minutes, so this is where you’re going to want to hurry a little bit.
    Now, you have the clean wheel and prepared Bondo; you’re going to want to start filling any of the damaged spots that you sanded down previously. Don’t worry about leaving too much Bondo in the damaged sections. If needed, you can sand it down later, right before painting.
    Make sure to force the Bondo into any of the gaps left from the sanding. If you have gloves, you can use your fingers to shape it into the right form. Let it dry for 20 minutes. Remember, it’s all going to be sanded one more time before paint or primer is ever applied.
    Sand Your Wheel Again
    Next, sand the entire wheel smooth using 80-grit sandpaper—sand down all the areas that you used Bondo to repair the damaged wheel. You can use a sanding block for the flat sections if you have one as it makes the whole process much more expeditious.
    For the areas with the curb rash, you will just hand sand it on the wheel’s lip without using the block. Spread the sandpaper around the lip tightly and go all the way around the wheel, careful not to stay on one section too long.
    Finally, sand down the entire wheel surface with 320-grit sandpaper. This is to smoothen the entire face of the rim to allow for better adhesion of the primer and paint to follow. Make sure the wheel is completely clean using rubbing alcohol and a fresh paper towel.
    Prime Your Wheels
    At this point, you’re ready to paint.
    You will want to use a primer filler to fill the final few gaps left by both sanding processes. For the first coat, don’t worry about covering the entire surface of the wheel. This is generally referred to as glazing the wheel. Specifically, this initial process is a standard side-to-side sweep of back and forth motion so that the wheel gets dusted or “glazed” with primer.
    Let it dry for about fifteen minutes, and you can move on to the second coat.
    Primer coat number two is similar but this time, try to get more of the surface covered in paint. Make sure to change your angles to get the crevices coated in primer. You don’t want to miss something and then have to come back to it later.
    The third coat of primer should be a total and complete coverage of your wheel. There should be no bare metal or exposed base at this point. This should be your final coat before you choose colored paint. In specific scenarios in which there was significant damage to the wheel, you may want to do a fourth coat. This is to ensure the paint sticks and that the primer fills any gaps.
    When the final coat of primer has been drying for at least an hour, you can then go about sanding down the entire surface of the wheel with 600-grit sandpaper. There is no need to wet-sand your wheels. You don’t want water getting into the primer; it just makes your wait time significantly longer. The whole point of sanding is to ensure that the wheel is smooth and ready for paint.
    Wipe down your wheels with rubbing alcohol and a fresh towel, and once they dry, you can start painting.
    Painting Your Wheels
    Now, the moment you’ve been waiting for, for at least a few hours, due to all the prep, priming, and sanding. Let’s get to painting the wheels.
    If you have decided to go with a metallic variety of paint, make sure you shake the can very well. Metallic paints run very easily and can ruin all that work you just did if you mess this part up. Fear not, it may sound daunting, but it’s really simple if you follow this one rule. More light coats with minimal coverage are always better than a thick single or double coat. Don’t rush.
    Using the same method of side-to-side spraying, lightly coat each wheel. Keeping the nozzle farther away is always better. Make sure to keep an eye out for a drippy nozzle as that sometimes occurs.
    You will probably do between 3 and 5 coats per wheel, depending on the color, finish, and humidity. Once you are happy with the look of the wheels, let them dry.
    Once the wheels have dried, repeat the same process with your clear coat, two light coats, then one final thicker coat with complete coverage. Let them dry, and congratulations, you have just learned how to repair professionally, refinish, prime and paint a set of wheels.
    FAQ
    Can I Use Any Paint on My Wheels?
    You should only use specifically designed temperature resistant automotive wheel paint, along with a primer and a clear coat. Normal paint will struggle with the high heat of the wheels and will melt, strip away and cause other issues.
    Do I Have to Use Primer?
    No. If you are using a Plasti Dip or vinyl spray, you do not need to prime your wheels. For any conventional paint, it is highly recommended to prime your wheels.
    Final Thoughts
    Painting your wheels personalizes and reinvigorates the look of your vehicle. There are many different options for color and finish. Whether you are looking for a sleek matte black or a wacky lime green, there are so many fun and exciting directions you can take. If you’re looking for other ways to adorn your car and are thinking of painting the whole body of your vehicle, our article on best paint guns for cars might be of interest. Happy trails. More

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    The 10 Best RV Solar Kits to Buy 2020

    RVs are a great way to see the world and enjoy the outdoors without leaving behind the creature comforts of home. You can pull off the highway and find a nice, quiet spot to stop and watch the sunset. Then, seconds after sundown, there’s an awful chugging. Suddenly your neighbor’s generator comes to life, and the whole park is drowned in a sea of exhaust fumes. “If only there was a better way!” you grumble as you claw your way back into the safety of your rig.
    There is. Just like the solar panels you can buy for your house, you can have an incredible solar array on your RV. In this guide, we will arm you with all the information you need to buy your own RV solar kit, starting with a short guide. We’ll then give you the ten best kits along with our reviews. Finally, we’ll aim to provide you an in-depth guide and answer any questions you might still have at the bottom.

    Shining Light On Solar Kits
    Adding solar to your RV can seem really complicated. In this quick guide, we will break down the different parts and take the mystery away so you can confidently buy the kit that suits your lifestyle.
    Solar Basics
    At the core, photovoltaic cells (PV), the fancy way to say solar panels, take sunlight, and convert it into DC voltage. That’s straightforward enough.
    DC vs. AC
    Your RV likely has a few systems that run on DC, or 12v, power. The engine does, and often the water pumps, cabin lights, and warning systems do as well. DC power from solar panels can basically do everything you can do using batteries instead of turning on your generator. The problems and complications with solar arise when you want to use that power to make some popcorn in a microwave. It’s not just a microwave, but anything that runs off a normal house, or 110v, outlet.
    It takes a lot of solar power to make a microwave run, and the only way to get a lot of solar power is to have a lot of solar panel surface area. An RV simply does not have the space for big systems. Then, just to add extra problems to the mix, microwaves don’t run on DC power; they run on AC power. You can’t just plug in some solar panels into your electrical panel and get satisfactory results.
    Batteries and Inverters
    Fear not, brave citizens, there is a solution. Instead of trying to run the microwave off solar power, you can run it off batteries. Batteries can hold a lot of energy. With the help of a device called an inverter, they can easily power your microwave.
    Solar panels are really good at charging batteries. Any household battery charger you plugin works by sending a small amount of DC voltage to a battery over a long time, exactly how a solar panel operates. That means a solar kit has to use the sun to charge batteries, and then you can use the batteries to power your appliances. It’s nice when everything works out.
    The Major Parts of a Solar System
    No, we aren’t talking about the planets; we are talking about everything you need to utilize solar power on your RV. We’ll get a lot more in-depth about each component down in the full guide.
    For now, just know that a kit can contain some or all of these components. Any parts not contained in the kit are components you will have to source yourself if your RV doesn’t already have them.
    Panels: The panels can be either Monocrystalline or Polycrystalline panels are cheaper but make less power for the size.
    Wires: Wires, plugs, and connectors transport power from the PV array to other components.
    Charge Controller: A charge controller regulates the amount of power going into the batteries, so they don’t explode.
    Batteries: Batteries hold onto the power so you can use it at your convenience. Conventional lead-acid batteries, like the ones in your car, are not preferred for use in modern systems. Instead, AGM batteries or the more expensive, more efficient Lithium batteries are what you need.
    Inverter: The inverter converts DC power from the batteries into AC power for the outlets. We’ll discuss inverters in-depth later on. Be aware that many RVs have an inverter installed already.
    Extras: Kits can contain a variety of extras, like battery monitors, USB chargers for phones and lights, and fuse/breaker panels for convenient wiring.
    How Much Solar Do You Need?
    The short answer to the question is that you need enough wattage from solar as it takes to make sure your batteries are full after a full day of sunlight, and you need enough batteries to run all the appliances you want to run. An online calculator like this one can make it easy to calculate.
    Unfortunately, there are still a lot of variables. How much sun you get, how many batteries you have room for and plan on buying, how much room you have for the solar panels, and perhaps most importantly, how much you can afford.
    Rather than worry too much about getting the biggest, nicest solar kit on the market, our advice is to start small and expand over time. Adding solar panels or batteries is the easy part once the rest of the installation is done. Even if you get a system that isn’t quite what you need, you can always add more panels in the future.
    With that short overview out of the way, let’s get into the reviews. It’s important to note that the best system for you may not be the one we think is the best. The best one for you is the one that fits your budget, power requirements, and space constraints. You will likely have to compromise on one of those categories, so we include a description of who each kit is best for in our reviews.

    Top 10 Best RV Solar Kits 2020
    1. Best Overall RV Solar Kit: Renogy 200 Watt

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    Why we like it: It’s a high-quality starter system that is perfect for getting into the PV world.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Facts
    Wattage: 200
    PV Type: Monocrystalline
    Batteries: Not Included
    What’s In The Kit?
    In the kit, you get mounting brackets, wires, and a charge controller. One of the things that set Renogy apart is their cabling. We know that doesn’t sound really exciting, but they have these super easy to install boxes that house all the connections and junctions. That makes the entire install one of the cleanest you can get.
    You’ll have to source your own batteries, which is unfortunate. That’s standard, though; only a few kits are like the WindyNation kit on our list and actually include batteries in the package. The good news is that this Renogy kit comes standard with a lithium ready charge controller, so you won’t have to upgrade it if you decide to invest in high-end batteries.
    Who’s It Best For?
    This is the perfect kit for someone that wants to do things on a budget but doesn’t want to sacrifice quality. Especially if that person wants to upgrade items in the future. The panels are high efficiency and can stand up to a lot of abuse. They will last long enough that when you upgrade, you will be adding more panels, not replacing them.
    200w with 2 batteries is a great amount for small to medium RVs and trailers, and it’s a perfect starting point for larger rigs. The lack of included batteries lends itself well to being a starter system, too. Your RV probably already has a small battery bank, so you can still upgrade to solar and then upgrade your batteries later.
    Our Thoughts
    This is easy. If you are on a budget and want to build a system over time and want to make sure that the system is high-quality when you are done, get this kit.
    Just buy it with the knowledge that it’s not complete yet. It doesn’t come with fuses or blocks; you’ll have to buy those separately or use the existing ones on your RV. It doesn’t come with batteries and it doesn’t come with an inverter – it’s just some nice solar panels and a charger.
    We have two kits on our list that are more complete: the WindyNation 400 watt and the ECO-WORTHY 1kw. They both have batteries and inverters. They are also more than four times the cost of this kit and require a lot more work.

    Pros
    Easy to install
    Panels are high-quality
    The charge controller is one of the better ones available

    Cons
    Doesn’t include batteries
    Doesn’t include some smaller components like fuses

    2. Best Premium Kit: WindyNation 400 Watt w/ Batteries

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    Why we like it: This kit is everything you need to install solar on your RV.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Facts
    Wattage: 400
    PV Type: Polycrystalline
    Batteries: 4 100ah AGM
    What’s In The Kit?
    Everything. You get four AGM batteries with an inverter to maximize their use. You get four 100w solar panels and all the wiring to hook them up. You get a charge controller and mounting hardware.
    You don’t get a battery meter, which is unfortunate. You also are only getting polycrystalline panels. We wish that WindyNation had chosen to go with monocrystalline panels like the Renogy kit uses. The price is already steep so it wouldn’t cost that much more, and you’d get another 50w or so from the same amount of space.
    Who’s It Best For?
    Do you have a larger trailer or RV, but you don’t want to spend time sourcing out any of your own parts? Then this kit is perfect since it has everything you need. Smaller rigs can get by with the WindyNation 100 Watt, but anything with a/c, a microwave, and a TV really needs 300-400 watts and 3 batteries. This kit has 400 watts and 4 batteries, so you are good to go.
    Our Thoughts
    It’s nice when you buy a DIY kit for a project, and it actually has all the parts you need to finish the project. That’s what this kit is. It’s just everything you need to install a 400w solar system onto your rig.
    We have two big complaints. They aren’t really deal-breakers because they are easy to fix down the road with a few upgrades, but we would gladly accept a higher price if WindyNation had just included them in the kit. Like we mentioned before, the first is that we wish they had gone with higher-quality monocrystalline panels.
    The second is that we wish they included a pure wave inverter like the one Go Power has. The modified wave inverter included in this kit isn’t terrible, but it’s not much more expensive to get something far less likely to hurt sensitive electronics.

    Pros
    Includes batteries
    Generates enough power for larger RVs
    Includes an inverter

    Cons
    Solar panels could be better quality
    The inverter could be better quality too

    3. Best Starter System: WindyNation 100 Watt w/ Battery

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    Why we like it: It includes everything you need to get started, even the battery.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Facts
    Wattage: 100
    PV Type: Polycrystalline
    Batteries: 1 100ah AGM
    What’s In The Kit?
    This kit is ¼ of the big WindyNation kit. It has one 100 watt panel instead of four, it has one battery instead of four, and it has a few wires instead of a ton. It does use the same framework as the big system, though, so upgrading at a later point in time is easy. Adding panels and batteries is literally a plug and play process.
    It doesn’t have an inverter, though. It also doesn’t come with fuses or junctions or anything; it’s just a charger, wires, a panel, and a battery. You may even want to source your own cables. The included wiring is 10 AWG, but 8 is recommended for 20ft runs.
    Who’s It Best For?
    The quality of the WindyNation panel and charger is a step below the quality of the Renogy system. The big difference is that WindyNation includes a single AGM battery for you. If you have a small travel trailer or Class C that doesn’t already have a battery bank, then that included battery is just what the doctor prescribed.
    Our Thoughts
    Unlike the WindyNation 400w we recommend, we don’t really have an issue with the fact that it’s a polycrystalline panel. We don’t have an issue with the slow charge controller, either. That’s because this system is a lot less expensive. You can tell they were trying to keep the price low, and campers on a budget will appreciate that.
    That being said, we do feel like they could have included an inexpensive inverter. It’s really the only thing missing from the kit. You can easily run lights, pumps, and charge your cell phone, but you wouldn’t be able to use the electric coffee pot. You can buy one here that’s a pure sine inverter and rated to 500 watts, and doesn’t cost that much. It’d just be nice if it was in the kit ready to be hooked up.

    Pros
    Inexpensive
    Comes with a battery
    It’s expandable

    Cons
    Doesn’t include an inverter
    The quality of the components could be better

    4. Best For Small RVs or Overlanders: Go Power! Weekender

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    Why we like it: The Go Power! Weekender is a highly efficient system that can take a lot of abuse.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Facts
    Wattage: 190
    PV Type: Monocrystalline
    Batteries: Not Included
    What’s In The Kit?
    Included is a high-efficiency panel, wiring, Bluetooth controller, install kit, and pure sine inverter. The pure sine inverter is one of the nicest inverters on our list. With 1500 watts of power, you can run multiple appliances at once, and the “pure sine” part of the description means that you won’t risk hurting any sensitive electronics.
    It does not include a battery, but it is set up to be wired into a 30amp service. That’s great if you have a class C that already has a battery bank, but useless if you don’t have batteries already.
    Who’s It Best For?
    This kit is best for anyone that has a smaller rig and not a lot of roof space. We’re talking about overlanders who only have a few square feet of the truck cab to work with, van campers, and people with teardrop trailers. Everything about the Go Power system is centered around quality and efficiency so you can get the most power from a limited space.
    Other solutions for lack of space usually involve collapsible panels, like the XINPUGUANG kit we recommend. Or they are fairly low power like this ACOSYSTEM kit. The Go Power kit is robust, hard mounted, and can still get you enough power to run whatever appliance you need.
    Our Thoughts
    The Go Power kit is a really high-quality version of the much less expensive WindyNation kit here. That quality shows through in the attention to detail. They actually include a fuse link and a plug for a 30amp service.  Other kits don’t include those things.
    That price will turn many people away, though, especially since you will still have to source some batteries to take full advantage of it.

    Pros
    High-quality
    Includes a pure sine inverter
    Kit includes 30amp hookup

    Cons
    Doesn’t include any batteries
    Expensive

    5. Most Portable: ACOPOWER 100W

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    Why we like it: It’s waterproof, sits on a portable stand, and is easy to set up.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Facts
    Wattage: 100
    PV Type: Monocrystalline
    Batteries: Not Included
    What’s In The Kit?
    The entire kit is a weatherproof panel that you have to set up and a simple charge controller. That makes it the kit with the least number of parts on our lists, so if there’s anything else you’d like to have, you’ll have to buy it yourself.
    Who’s It Best For?
    The biggest advantage of this kit is that you don’t have to mount it to your RV. You just carry it outside, set it up facing the sun, and clip it to your battery. Small trailers, camper vans, and truck campers will benefit from this kit the most since the engine battery is often the only battery on these types of rigs.
    It’s also a great kit to buy if you just are not ready to commit to a system you have to install. Since all you have to do is unfold it and throw it down, you don’t have to install anything and risk putting holes in the roof of your RV.
    Our Thoughts
    We have two big categories of solar kits on our list. Big kits, like the WindyNation 400w or the Go Power 190w, are like residential solar systems. They are installed like residential systems, they work similarly, and you use them the same way you would use 110v power at your house.
    The other category is more general purpose. These general-purpose solar kits don’t work like home solar. Kits like this ACOPOWER 100w or the even more portable GVSHINE 30w won’t power your appliances. They work best to keep cell phones or other devices charged, or for running low voltage LED lights. You can use them to charge batteries, but it will take a while since they need to be set up every time you stop. Unlike mounted systems, you can’t charge while driving down the road.
    If you don’t need all the comforts of home, you can save a lot of money and get one of these convenient kits. If you take your RV out into the woods to actually enjoy the woods and not enjoy a football game on the TV, then the quiet, easy to transport ACOPOWER 100w is perfect.

    Pros
    Portable
    Inexpensive
    Easy to set up

    Cons
    Doesn’t include an inverter or batteries
    Not good for running appliances

    6. Best Budget: HQST 100 Watt

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    Why we like it: It’s inexpensive, but it still includes enough power to be useful for appliances.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Facts
    Wattage: 100
    PV Type: Polycrystalline
    Batteries: Not Included
    What’s In The Kit?
    This kit is neat because you actually get a lot of extras for the price. It comes with the standard panel, wires, and brackets like most kits do. It also comes with a junction box, LCD readout screen, and a charge controller that can handle a large variety of batteries.
    The issue is that none of those parts are great quality. They work, but you can tell that the panel is less sturdy than others by the way it flexes as you work with it. The LCD screen is more like an old calculator than an iPhone, and the included wires are too thin to run longer distances.
    Who’s It Best For?
    If you saw the Renogy kit and thought it looked perfect, but you recoiled at the price, this is the kit for you. Even if you opt to double the power output to 200w by buying an extra panel, it’s still quite a lot cheaper than the Renogy kit.
    You will need to source some batteries, but since this kit is great for a budget build, you won’t feel bad taking the extra time to get a really good deal. Most junkyards have AGM batteries from all manner of junked RV and industrial trucks. Bring the yard attendant some donuts and ask them for the good neighbor discount. You can probably get all the batteries you can carry for less than the price of one new lithium.
    Our Thoughts
    We get it; sometimes, price is the biggest factor when choosing, well, anything. That’s the reason we make these lists. We want people to get the best value for their money that they can, and a big part of that is making sure that even the inexpensive products we recommend will still do what people need them to do.
    That’s what the HQST kit is; a product that is inexpensive but will still do what you need it to do. In this case, it will charge batteries and power lights. It won’t do much more than that unless you upgrade the system at a later time. They cost so little, though, that you’ll have money for upgrades when you need them.

    Pros
    Inexpensive
    Includes a charge monitor
    Easy to expand

    Cons
    Quality could be better
    You’ll want to buy different wiring

    7. Best Space Saving: XINPUGUANG 100w Flexible

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    Why we like it: These flexible solar panels are easy to take with you and set up on the go.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Facts
    Wattage: 200
    PV Type: Monocrystalline
    Batteries: Not Included
    What’s In The Kit?
    Two high quality flexible solar panels and a charge controller. Although, if you check the listing, you can actually get this kit with up to 10 flexible panels. 200 watts is enough power to charge 2 batteries without much issue. 1000 watts is enough that you could run a microwave without the batteries.
    That’s it, though. You don’t get batteries, inverters, mounting hardware, or anything else. It would be nice if they included some kind of mounting assistance. Even if it’s just suction cups that have hooks on them.
    Who’s It Best For?
    These panels walk the line between a portable system like the ACOPOWER 100w, and a hard-mounted system like the Renogy. They produce more power than most portable systems but are still considered portable since they don’t mount to the roof. They are flexible and easy to carry around, but they aren’t as simple to set up as a truly portable system.
    That makes them the perfect thing for people who will travel out to a destination and stay in one spot for a few days. You drive in, roll out the panels, and you’ll have adequate power during your stay. The big advantage of the flexible panels is that you don’t need any roof space. RVs and trailers like an Airstream that wouldn’t be able to accept a standard panel mount because they have a curved roof are excellent contenders for flexible panels like this.
    Our Thoughts
    Solar panels come in all shapes and sizes nowadays. These flexible panels are a great example of innovation in the solar industry. They don’t have to be mounted flat, and the biggest advantage is that they don’t take up very much room. They don’t have an aluminum frame or glass top taking up space.
    That makes them ideal for anyone that is space limited or who may have to take the panels inside from time to time. Even if you don’t own an RV and are just adding solar to your outhouse for private TV time, you don’t want solar panels out in the elements during strong winds or hail. With these flexible panels, you can just pull them down and stack them out of the way inside.

    Pros
    Can charge batteries quickly
    Flexible panels can conform to unusual surfaces
    They are easy to store when not in use

    Cons
    Can be hard to set up
    You have to set them up somewhere when you stop

    8. Best for High Energy Needs: ECO-WORTHY 1KW

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    Why we like it: 1KW is enough to power anything.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Facts
    Wattage: 1000
    PV Type: Monocrystalline
    Batteries: 2 100ah AGM
    What’s In The Kit?
    This is the biggest kit on our list. You get three times the number of panels as the Renogy kit we recommend, and it comes with two batteries. It also has a standard charge controller, plenty of wiring, and a gigantic 3500w pure sine inverter.
    Those six panels generate over a kilowatt of power. To put that in perspective, if you run a small AC, your TV, and make toast all at the same time, you’ll still have power left over.
    Who’s It Best For?
    There are two types of people that would really benefit from a kit this large. Both of them need to own larger RVs. Each panel is a little over two feet wide and a little under five feet long. That means you need 60 square feet of roof space. That’s more than the total square footage of roof space on the average class C RV.
    The first type of person who can benefit from a large system like this is the type of person who uses an RV as a more permanent home. If you regularly use appliances during the day, this solar kit will run them without charging batteries. That way, you can park anywhere, even if they don’t have hookups, and enjoy all the amenities you get from running the generator without burning the fuel.
    The second type is the RV owner with a big family. It’s hard for one or two people to use more than a few hundred watts in a day when you are at camp. It’s easy for 5 people with cellphones, laptops, Nintendos, and a constant need to open and close the fridge for the fifteenth time to use a ton of power over the course of a day. If you’re running a washer/dryer combo for example, the extra power might be needed.
    Our Thoughts
    This kit is gigantic, costs a lot, and generates way more power than the average RV crew can use. For most campers, the WindyNation 400w is more than adequate. There’s only so much popcorn you can pop, after all.
    If you do need a lot of power, though, then it’s a very nice kit. The pure sine inverter is one of the higher quality inverters you can buy, and the two included batteries will expand your storage capacity. If you plan on being off-grid for a while or just have a lot of friends that you want to take road tripping, there’s no better value than this kit.

    Pros
    Generates a lot of power
    Has an excellent inverter
    Includes batteries

    Cons
    Takes up a lot of space
    Expensive

    9. Best Simple Travel Kit: GVSHINE 30W Panel Foldable

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    Why we like it: It’s a simple kit that includes lights and USB charging. It’s perfect for small trailers or tent campers.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Facts
    Wattage: 30
    PV Type: Polycrystalline
    Batteries: 1 14ah Lithium
    What’s In The Kit?
    This is a really fun kit. The battery isn’t a standard AGM or RV battery; it’s a green brick with a handle on it so you can carry it around. The solar panel is the size of a laptop when it’s folded up, and the kit includes lights that automatically turn on with motion.
    It’s not a kit that will charge batteries or run appliances. The 30w panel only generates ⅓ the power of the portable ACOPOWER panel, and that’s not enough power to even try to run a microwave. It will charge a phone, power a tablet, and run a handful of lights, though.
    Who’s It Best For?
    The perfect place for this kit is in the trunk of the car towing an older camper trailer. Or anyone with smaller trailers, or people who bring tents with them when they go out RVing. Anywhere that you won’t have access to batteries or don’t have an electrical system installed already.
    One of the neat things about this kit is that it’s incredibly portable, so while it is great for lighting up an RV or campsite, it’s also great to just have around your house in case the power goes out. It’s also great for keeping in your truck for emergency cell phone power.
    Our Thoughts
    The GVSHINE solar kit’s greatest strength is also its greatest weakness. It’s tiny and easy to set up. That makes it perfect for lights, but it can’t charge a big battery or run a water pump.
    Not everyone needs to run appliances, though. For a large number of outdoorsy types, even the lights and cell phone charging are a luxury that they usually wouldn’t have. This unit is fantastic for that.

    Pros
    Very portable
    Battery and panels don’t take up much space
    Has lights and USB chargers included

    Cons
    The battery can’t run appliances
    The panel won’t charge larger RV batteries

    10. Best Kit With A Backup Source: ECO-WORTHY Wind and Solar

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    Why we like it: It includes a wind turbine so you can weather storms just as well as days in the sun.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Facts
    Wattage: 100 (solar) 400 (wind)
    PV Type: Monocrystalline
    Batteries: Not Included
    What’s In The Kit?
    Most of this kit is fairly standard. You get a panel, a charge controller, some cables, and some brackets. When it comes to solar, this kit is pretty much exactly the same as the budget HQST kit.
    What really sets it apart – and the reason to buy this kit instead of any others – is the wind turbine. The 400w wind turbine is a great way to generate green energy without relying on the sun.
    Who’s It Best For?
    The easy answer is that it’s for anyone that uses their RV as a base. If you are scientists out doing research or living on a remote constructing site, then you want as many options as you can get to make sure your power never runs out. Especially if you go to a place that doesn’t get very much sunlight, like Seattle or Alaska in winter.
    In our view, the person who is going to gravitate towards this kit the most are those with a strong interest in green energy. It’s great for anyone who wants to experiment with wind power and off-grid living.
    Our Thoughts
    Sometimes when we write these lists, we like to include products that people might not know to exist. These products are usually not a good answer for everyone but might inspire a few people who like cutting edge gadgets or out of the box thinking. We included this kit for those people.
    Solar is a fantastic option for getting green power. Even though it’s low efficiency in the grand scheme of things, it is the simplest and most accessible energy production available to the average person. But it has a lot of drawbacks. It takes up a lot of surface area, it doesn’t work unless it’s in direct sunlight, and it’s susceptible to damage from the weather. A wind turbine only needs moving air to generate power, and they are easy to stow if the weather takes a bad turn.
    Unfortunately, this kit really is more of an entry-level product. Something for you to experiment with and engineer solutions for. It’s not really meant for an RV that’s going to be moving around all the time, and they don’t include mounting hardware that is conducive to RV use. These problems are compounded by the fact that you need a higher level of research and skill to connect everything. Wind power is more complicated to work with than the fairly constant, easy to work with solar power.

    Pros
    Can generate power even when you have no sunlight
    Inexpensive
    Is a great kit for experimenting with

    Cons
    Not specifically for RVs
    You need to DIY a lot of components

    The Big Guide to RV Solar
    Welcome to our big guide. Here we will go over the benefits of solar, the finer details of the design, and answer some of the frequently asked questions surrounding RV solar.
    The Pros and Cons of RV Solar
    We’ll start this section by answering one of the biggest questions: why would you install solar on your RV?
    The short answer is that generators are noisy and pollute, and PV arrays do not. In order to get a detailed answer, let’s compare the good and the bad parts of solar electricity.
    Pros
    Solar is quiet. Kits like the WindyNation 400w system can replace a loud generator. Most kits like the Renogy 200w will greatly diminish the number of times you’ll have to start the generator.
    It’s an accessible way to harness green energy. Residential solar kits can easily climb into the tens of thousands of dollars. Putting solar on your RV can be as little as a few hundred bucks, and you can even experiment with wind power.
    It increases the resale value of your RV.
    It’s an easy way to add an electrical system to a trailer or camper that does not currently have one.
    Cons
    If you only camp at places with electric hookups, there’s no benefit.
    It has a high initial investment cost.
    Solar panels don’t work well in the rain. You may still need a gas generator as a backup.
    The Parts of an RV Solar Setup

    We mentioned them briefly above, but solar electric systems are made of a few core components. Here we’ll get a little more in-depth on each part and talk about what parts you may already have on your RV.
    Panels
    Panels are the most prominent feature of a solar panel system. The average panel is about 2ft x 5ft in size, and, unless they are flexible panels like the XINPUGUANG kit, they will have an aluminum frame that’s about 2in thick.
    There are three main types. You can read about the three types here if you want the science. The two types you will come across most are monocrystalline panels and polycrystalline panels.
    Monocrystalline panels are more efficient but cost more. Polycrystalline panels cost less but are less efficient. You can see it in action if you compare the Go Power Weekender with the WindyNation 100 watt. They both use a panel that is about the same size. The WindyNation panel is both significantly cheaper and produces 90 watts less than the Go Power panel does.
    Wires
    The wires included in kits vary a lot, and sometimes you’ll need longer wires or bigger cables for different applications. The wire is measured in gauge, then classified by material and construction. The higher the gauge, the smaller the wire. Most wires are either copper or aluminum and either solid or stranded.
    There are two main things you need to know to calculate wire size: length and amperage. The best thing to do is use an online calculator like this one to make sure you are getting the right diameter and material.
    Charge Controller
    A charge controller is a relatively simple device. Batteries can’t handle max amperage all the time; they have to be charged in a controlled way to keep them from dying prematurely. The only significant consideration for choosing a charge controller is the type and size of battery they can charge. Most modern controllers, like the one included with the Renogy system, can handle most battery types and sizes, so it’s usually not a concern when choosing a kit.
    Batteries
    You’ll come across two main types of batteries in the RV world: AGM and Lithium. You can read about them here, but the basic rule is that the more charge they can hold, the more they cost. A lithium battery and an AGM battery are the same size, but the lithium battery can hold a lot more charge.
    Many kits, like the Go Power kit, do not come with batteries. That’s because most RVs already have a battery bank. You may have to do some research into your RV’s electrical system to know if you want to add more batteries or upgrade them.
    Inverter
    Inverters turn DC voltage, the voltage from solar panels and batteries, into AC voltage, which is used to power appliances. Inverters are measured in watts and come in two main styles. Pure sine wave inverters are high-quality and are the best at emulating house voltage. Go Power and ECO-WORTHY both include these higher quality pure sine wave inverters.
    Modified sine wave inverters are of lower quality and don’t produce “clean” energy. You can get into the science here. Appliances will run worse on a modified inverter, especially things like heaters and microwaves that use constant power. Some devices, like sensitive laptops or modern HD TVs, risk being damaged by modified sine waves.
    Unless you are really on a strict budget, get a pure sine wave inverter. The WindyNation 400w kit comes with a modified wave inverter, and we honestly suggest you get rid of it and buy a different one.
    Your RV may already have an inverter. If you can use your 110v outlets when your generator is off and you aren’t hooked up to a service, you already have an inverter. Hurray for small mercies.
    Usable Power
    We apologize; we realize this is a lot of information. Unfortunately, that’s the nature of solar energy. The good news is that all this information translates directly to setting up solar on your house, so if you ever plan to do that, you are already equipped with a lot of the knowledge.
    DC Power
    You don’t actually need an inverter to take advantage of solar panels or batteries. You can do a lot of neat things with just DC power. This GVSHINE kit here is a great example of how you can use a solar panel without needing 110 volts.
    Lights, batteries of all types, pumps, starters, and specialty equipment like DC TVs and stereos can run off a simple panel and single battery setup. If the panel is big enough, you don’t even need the battery.
    There are two primary voltages for RV electrical systems: 12v and 24v. You will have to do some research to find out what your RV is wired for since most kits and battery systems can be set up for either style.
    AC Power
    For the average person, AC power is more straightforward than DC power. It’s the power that comes out of the wall in your home. It will be 110-120v, and it’s what powers all your modern appliances. To turn the DC power from batteries or panels into AC power, you need an inverter. We discussed those more in-depth above.
    Watts
    Wattage is easy to calculate. You take the voltage and multiply it by the amperage. A small microwave that plugs into a standard wall outlet needs 110 volts and draws 5 amps. 110×5=550 watts.
    You’ll notice that most kits, even the larger WindyNation 400w, don’t produce enough power to run that small microwave. That’s why we spent so much time in this guide talking about inverters and batteries. Having a battery bank with an inverter is the only way to power most household appliances without needing to buy a ton of solar panels, like with this kit.
    FAQ

    How Many Watts of Solar do I Need?
    If you don’t want to use a simple online calculator like this one, head over to this webpage to learn how to do the math.
    How Many Batteries Can a 100w Solar Panel Charge?
    A 100-watt solar panel can output 30 amp-hours a day. An average AGM battery is rated at 100 amp hours, but you should never regularly discharge a deep cycle battery below 50%, so a single 100-watt panel will charge 2/3s of a standard AGM battery.
    That’s why many kits, like the Renogy kit we recommend, come with 2 solar panels as standard, producing a total of 200w; it will charge a standard battery in one day easily.
    Can You Run Your AC with Solar Panels?
    The answer is yes, but only if you have the solar panels charging batteries that are hooked up to an inverter. It is very unlikely that you can run an AC on solar power alone unless you have a very large array.
    Are Solar Panels for an RV Worth It?
    We go over that in this section, but to make a long story short: yes, they are. Solar panels are good for your wallet in the long run, they are good for the Earth, and they can generate quiet power in remote places.
    Enjoy Peaceful Power
    Whether you are a hardcore RV enthusiast that regularly takes trips across the US or just a weekend pavement warrior who’s on a first-name basis with your local KOA, RV solar can make your outing more enjoyable. You won’t have to rely on hooking up to the power, and you won’t be “that guy” who starts up their generators at 6am because you need to make coffee. More

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    The 10 Best RV Inverters to Buy 2020

    There’s no better feeling than escaping the pitfalls of modern living and getting reacquainted with nature in your RV. But as much as we love a digital detox among jaw-dropping natural scenery, there will come a time when we start to miss the comforts of home.
    While an RV’s in-built 12V electrical system is capable of running a whole bunch of gadgets and gizmos—your lights, fan, water pump, and fridge, to name a few—it won’t run any 120V appliances. And that means you’ll have to forgo your favorite coffee machine, TV, blender, console, and laptop computer, etc.—unless, of course, you invest in an inverter for your RV.
    Read on to learn all about the technology and discover the ten best RV inverters on the market.

    Features To Consider in an RV Inverter
    Before we present our top 10 list of the best RV inverters, you should understand what you’re looking at. Here’s what you need to look out for when shopping for an inverter to use in your RV.
    Wattage
    RV inverters are rated to a certain number of watts, which refers to the maximum power consumption of the appliance(s) they will support. Look for an inverter with a higher wattage than the most energy-hungry device you plan to use.
    Surge Wattage
    RV inverters are rated to withstand a certain level of surge power, which is when an appliance uses more power than usual for a brief moment. Ensure the surge rating on your inverter is higher than the potential surge spike on your biggest appliance.
    Type
    RV inverters come in various types: Modified Sine Wave, Pure Sine Wave, and Square Sine Wave (mostly obsolete). Although cheaper, Modified Sine Wave inverters are less efficient than Pure Sine Wave inverters and aren’t suitable for sophisticated electrical devices like computers.
    Protections
    The last thing you want to do is short circuit your expensive inverter because you tried to dry your hair at the same time the kids were watching TV. High-quality inverters come with a range of inbuilt protective measures to ensure they don’t melt or explode.
    Size
    Space is of utmost importance in any RV; there’s no point purchasing a bigger power inverter than you have to. If you’re pressed for room, or if you’re planning on moving your inverter between RVs, then a miniature portable inverter might be your best bet.
    Price
    Our recommended RV inverters range from $50 to $1,500, so the cost will be a crucial factor in your decision. To save money, only buy an inverter that is as powerful as you need it to be.
    With these things in mind, let’s find the inverter you need to power up your RV for the road ahead.

    Top 10 Best RV Inverters to Buy in 2020
    1. Best RV Inverter Overall: Krieger 1500 Watts Power Inverter

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: This no-nonsense inverter works perfectly every time and doesn’t cost an arm and a leg.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Wattage: 1500W
    Surge Wattage: 3000W
    Inverter Type: Modified Sine Wave
    Size: 13.75 x 7.62 x 3.37 inches
    Outputs: 2x AC plus 2x USB
    This widely popular RV power inverter from KRIËGER is ideal for the average user. Boasting a respectable output of 1,500W (3,000W at peak), the unit is capable of complying with most RVer’s electricity requirements and comes in at a very reasonable price point.
    KRIËGER has a rep for creating quality gear that’s built to last, and this particular model comes with a range of built-in protections: Over voltage, under voltage, overload, short circuit, and high temperature. The included LCD will warn the user of potential issues, and the unit comes with a lengthy three-year warranty.
    We also love how small this package is—just 13 inches long for a 1,500W inverter is a rarity in this day and age. Its super silent fan is inaudible above your other RV fans, and the unit comes with four outputs (2xUSB and 2xAC) for charging multiple devices.
    If you like the look of this product but don’t quite need 1,500W, the good news is it comes in several cheaper, low wattage models as well (plus a few bigger ones, too). Just be aware that it uses Modified Sine Wave technology; thus, it won’t safely charge complex electrical devices.

    Pros
    High-performance inverter
    Multiple inbuilt protections
    Handy LCD display
    Good value for money
    Small and compact

    Cons
    Modified Sine Wave isn’t suitable for computers

    2. Energizer 1500 Watts Power Inverter

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    Why we like it: This outstanding inverter from Energizer is just like the bunny—it “keeps going and going and going.”
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Wattage: 1,500W
    Surge Wattage: 3,000W
    Inverter Type: Modified Sine Wine
    Size: 13.75 x 7.6 x 3.5 inches
    Outputs: 2x USB and 2x AC
    As one of the biggest battery brands in the world, Energizer is a name you can trust. And this high-performance 1,500W inverter does the company proud thanks to its durable design.
    The Energizer converter is a viable alternative to the aforementioned 1500W KRIËGER inverter — it offers roughly the same features and performance for approximately the same price. It has a myriad of protective measures like overload, over/under voltage, short circuit, and high-temperature cut-off, rendering it safe under any conditions.
    Much like the KRIËGER, you’ll also get a handy LCD to view the current input and output wattages as well as learn of any potential issues. It’s also approximately the same size, has the same number of ports, and boasts a similar silent fan—there’s not much difference between the two.
    Between this and the KRIËGER, it’s a close call, but the KRIËGER has a longer three-year warranty (versus the Energizer’s two years), which gives us more confidence in its longevity. Nonetheless, they’re both excellent inverters, so you won’t go wrong with either option.
    Once again, it’s a Modified Sine Wave model; thus, efficiency isn’t optimal, and it won’t safely run complex devices.

    Pros
    Good value for money
    Trusted well-known brand
    Small and compact
    Multiple protective features
    Long-lasting design

    Cons
    Two-year warranty is less than KRIËGER
    Uses inferior Modified Sine Wave technology

    3. Best Premium RV Inverter: Renogy 3000W 12V Pure Sine Wave Inverter

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: Renogy’s obsession with quality and Pure Sine Wave Technology sees this system outperform its rivals.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Wattage: 3,000W
    Surge Wattage: 6000W
    Inverter Type: Pure Sine Wave
    Size: 17.5 x 8.7x 3.7 In
    Outputs: 1x USB and 3x AC
    The Renogy Group has been making (sine) waves in the American RV space in recent years for its high-quality 12V products that outperform the competition. And this outstanding power inverter is no exception, with a clear and smooth electrical distribution thanks to its use of premium Pure Sine Wave technology.
    This particular inverter boasts a conversion efficiency of over 90%, which reduces strain on your battery system and allows you to run your favorite devices for longer than ever before. Minimal harmonic distortion ( More