Reviews

The best part about road tripping in a tricked-out RV is you don’t have to sacrifice the comforts of home. All your everyday essentials have already been built into the rig, including a fresh supply of running water.
But to make that water run, you’ll need an RV water pump. And that’s why we’ve put together an in-depth buyer’s guide and a top 8 list of the best RV water pumps on the market.
Whether you need to replace a broken unit or you’re converting a cool campervan from scratch (What up, #VanLifers?), let’s delve deep into the details of the RV water pump.

Features To Consider
Before we get cracking on our top 8 list, you need to know the primary considerations for buying an RV pump. Keep the following factors in mind to ensure you purchase the perfect RV water pump for your needs.
Dimensions: There’s no point in buying a unit that doesn’t fit into your allocated space. Use a measuring tape to determine how much room you’ve got to play with and purchase a pump accordingly. Remember to factor all cables and cords into your calculations.
Gallons Per Minute (GPM): GPM refers to how fast your pump can push water out the faucet. Low GPM units are cheaper and use less battery, but don’t pump enough water for everyday domestic use. If you plan to shower in your rig, aim for something with 3 to 5 GPM.
Pressure: We measure pressure in PSI, or pounds per square inch. If your water pump doesn’t use the appropriate amount of pressure, you could risk damaging your pipes or faucets. Check your RV owner’s manual to determine the right PSI range for your rig.
Price: RV water pumps range from $30 to $120, with the higher end models capable of achieving superior GPM. Peruse our list for something within your price range that suits your everyday needs.
Amperage: Amperage refers to the amount of power the pump draws while operating. Because a 12V pump runs off your batteries, you don’t have limitless power like you would at home. However, even the most power-hungry pumps don’t use that much energy.

Top 8 Best RV Water Pumps 2021
1. Best RV Water Pump Overall: Shurflo 2088-554-144

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Why we like it: This excellent all-around option from Shurflo delivers a reliable water supply for a reasonable rate.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Dimensions: 10.28 x 7.4 x 5.87 inches
Flow Rate: 3.5 GPM
Pressure: 45 PSI
Amperage: 5 Amps
Shurflo has been manufacturing reliable and consistent water pumps for recreational vehicles since 1968 — and the 2008 model is the flagship 12V unit from their extensive range.
The Shurflo 2008 is among the best-selling water pumps for RVs in America for one simple reason: it just works. You can expect to get a good decade of non-stop use from the device, partly thanks to its durable triple-chamber diaphragm design. And on the off chance it should break down within the first year of operation, rest assured you’ll be protected by a one-year warranty.
It’s relatively quiet, too — although we have come across even quieter pumps in our time. Pro tip: installing a neoprene sound barrier can help deaden the humming vibrations.
Another significant benefit is how easy the unit is to install. Even a novice DIY’er with basic tools should be able to get this one up and running within 20 minutes or so. An experienced installer could do the job even quicker than that.
At 3.5 gallons per minute, it pumps enough water for most RVers. But if you’ve got a big rig (and family), you might want to look for a high-flow unit instead.

Pros
Reasonably priced
Consistently reliable
Trusted brand
One-year warranty
Easy installation

Cons
Not big enough for large rigs/families
Could be quieter

2. Best Budget RV Water Pump: Bayite 12V DC Fresh Water Pump

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Why we like it: It does an outstanding job for low GPM users at a very reasonable rate.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Dimensions: 8 x 3 x 4 inches
Flow Rate: 1.2 GPM
Pressure: 80 PSI
Amperage: 5 amps
Are you looking for a low-cost RV water pump that gets the job done? Then the 12V DC Fresh Water Pump from Bayite is well-worth considering. Coming in at a fraction of the cost of other units, this budget-friendly pump is reliable enough for most RVers and offers superb value for money.
But it does come with one huge catch: limited pumping power.
Limping out a meager 1.2 gallons per minute, the device won’t produce a steady enough stream to enjoy a shower — at least not a decent one, anyway. But if you’re in a small RV or campervan that doesn’t have a shower installed, it’s an excellent budget-friendly option to use on the sink (1.2 GPM is fine for washing the dishes).
The unit has been designed to stand the test of time, not least for the heavy-duty seals that help keep moisture and dust at bay. Electro-coating on the seals prevents corrosion, and their soft rubber material minimizes vibration to reduce ambient noise.
All in all, it’s an excellent option to consider if you’re looking to snag a bargain and don’t have a shower in your rig.

Pros
Affordable pumping solution
Long-lasting design
Excellent value for money
Easy to install

Cons
Low GPM
Not suitable for showering

3. Best Premium RV Water Pump: SEAFLO 55-Series Diaphragm Pump

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Why we like it: It pumps out a whopping 5.5 GPM to meet even the most demanding water-use needs.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Dimensions: 8.25 x 5.30 x 6.0 inches
Flow Rate: 5.5 GPM
Pressure: 60 PSI
Amperage: 8.0 (17.0 Max. Amps)
Love having a high-pressure shower after a long sweaty day? Then you need a workhorse water pump capable of producing a serious amount of pressure. And that’s where the Series 55 from SEALFO shines: bucket loads of water delivered instantly to your faucet or showerhead.
Boasting a whopping 5.5-GPM flow rate, it’s among the most potent RV water pumps on the market. To put that in perspective, it’s enough to run two separate showers at the same time at a moderate flow rate (we hope you’re rocking a big freshwater tank). Or, you could run a high-flow shower at full power and use the kitchen faucet at the same time.
Truth be told, it’s overkill for solo travelers and minimalist couples. But for families living and traveling together in a big rig, having such a high GPM makes life so much simpler; no more arguing over who gets to enjoy a proper good hose down first.
Of course, all that extra power comes in at a premium — about double the cost of our top pick overall. But at least it comes with a four-year warranty, so you know your investment is adequately protected. And unlike some of the cheaper models out there, it can run dry without risk of damage.
On the downside, if you’ve got a substandard battery setup, do keep in mind the amperage is relatively high.

Pros
High 5.5 GPM flow rate
Suitable for multiple showers and faucets
Four-year warranty
Can run dry without damage

Cons
Expensive
High power draw

4. Quietest RV Water Pump: SEAFLO Water Diaphragm Self Priming Pump

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Why we like it: It pumps out a respectable 3 GPM without making much noise at all.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Dimensions: 10.5 x 6 x 5 inches
Flow Rate: 3.0 GPM
Pressure: 45 PSI
Amperage: Amps: 3.0 (6.0 Max. Amps)
There’s nothing worse than falling into the cusp of a deep sleep only to be violently awakened by the fierce vibration of an excessively loud water pump.
Sound far-fetched? Ask any seasoned RVer, and they’ll tell you the struggle is real. And while it’s true you can always turn your water pump off at the switchboard; chances are you’ll frequently forget. The good news is there is one saving grace for this perilous predicament: purchasing a quiet water pump.
Even though it’s capable of pumping 3.0 GPM through your faucet, this mid-range option from SEAFLO is remarkably tranquil. Rather than blurting out an intrusive whirl, this modest little mouse lets out a humble squeak — and it’s soft enough that you might just sleep through it.
Low decibel rating aside, it’s reliable, energy-efficient, and comes with a solid 4-year warranty. SEAFLO has exceptional customer service, too, a godsend in the unlikely event you need to send it back. And should you need to install the pump far below your faucet, its self-priming capability allows it to send water up to six vertical feet (that’s more than most).
But be warned: with 3.0 GPM, it’s not powerful enough to provide sufficient water for a medium to large-sized family, at least not simultaneously.

Pros
Less noisy than most pumps
Respectable 3.0 GPM flow rate
Lengthy 4-year warranty
Strong customer service
Pumps six vertical feet

Cons
Not suitable for big families

5. Best Small RV Water Pump: Shurflo 12v 3.0 GPM

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Why we like it: It’s a cost-effective workhorse with a petite stature to fit in tight spaces.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Dimensions: 4.9 x 8.1 x 4.3 inches
Flow Rate: 3.0 GPM
Pressure: 55 PSI
Amperage: 7.5 Amps
While the Shurflo 2088 is our water pump of choice overall, the same brand’s ‘Revolution’ product is a worthy rival at the 3.0 GPM level.
The one-piece diaphragm device comes with an internal by-pass to ensure optimal longevity. A high flow rate, quiet operation, and a distinct lack of rapid cycling make the device a pleasure to use, whether for washing the dishes or enjoying an end-of-day shower.
So what makes this product rank lower than the 2088 model? Simple. It draws more amps, runs at a higher pressure, and has a lower flow rate. Even though it’s a reliable option, it just doesn’t perform quite as well as the 2088. And given the cost difference between the two is minimal, buyers might struggle to justify this option.
But we wouldn’t recommend it if it weren’t the winner in at least some regards.
Firstly, this particular model runs more quietly than the Shurflo 2088; a minor victory but well worth considering if ambient noise is a big nuisance for you.
But more importantly, however, is that the unit is much smaller than most of the competition. Coming in at a fraction of the size of other RV water pumps (including the 2088), this model is perfect when you don’t have much room to play with.

Pros
Small size for tight spaces
Runs quietly
High flow rate
Reasonably priced
Long-lasting design

Cons
Less powerful than the similar 2088

6. Easiest RV Water Pump To Install: Lippert Components 12V Flow Max

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Why we like it: It’s easy to install for a novice DIYer and doesn’t make a whole lot of noise.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Dimensions: 10.5 x 6 x 5.5 inches
Flow Rate: 3 GPM
Pressure: 50 PSI
Amperage: 9.5 max amps
While SEAFLO and Shurflo dominate the RV and marine water pump market, few other manufacturers are worth considering. And one of the better competitors out there is Lippert Components, a well-regarded multinational corporation specializing in the mobile transport sector.
In the marine and RV water pump space, the 12V Flow Max is the company’s flagship product. With an average of 50 PSI and 3 GPM, it’s perfectly suited to medium-sized RVs with two or more simultaneous consumers. A big plus about this product is the noise level as the motor is as quiet as a mouse, although slightly louder than the SEAFLO Water Diaphragm Self Priming Pump.
Although the product comes with a rust-resistant motor, it’s not the most durable pump out there. The mounting bracket is prone to breakage, which requires replacement and a tiresome repair job.
It’s also not the smallest 3.0 GPM water pump on our list, but the Flow Max is exceptionally easy to install, even for an amateur DIY’er. If you loathe the thought of fiddling around with a confusing pump installation and yearn for something simple that works, this could be your best bet.

Pros
Easy to install
Well-regarded brand
Respectable 3.0 GPM flow rate
Resistant to rust damage
Suitable for medium-sized RVs

Cons
Mounting bracket is flimsy

7. Most Durable RV Water Pump: Flojet 03526-144A Triplex Diaphragm

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Why we like it: The Flojet Triplex Diaphragm is excellent at withstanding harsh winter conditions.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Dimensions: 9 x 4 x 4 inches
Flow Rate: 2.9 GPM
Pressure: 50 PSI
Amperage: 7.5 Amps
It might not have the highest flow rate on the market or the best energy efficiency statistics, but the Triplex Diaphragm from Flojet is known to excel at one thing: longevity. Even with heavy everyday use, you can expect this unit to last four years or more — that’s way more than most other water pumps on the market.
The secret to its long-lasting success is a heavy-duty design that incorporates a built-in by-pass, snap-in port fittings, and rust-resistant materials. And all that means this robust device is ready to withstand the rigors of the road; it’s tough enough to hold firm through endless bumps and rattles. Its ultra-tough composition also means the unit works exceptionally well with water heaters, so consider this if you’re looking at adding some comfort to your winter trips.
The self-priming pump is capable of running dry without damage, at least for a little while. Turning the device on while dry during a sub-zero night can prevent ice from cracking the components — yet another reason it excels for winter use.
While the device does cost a little more than other 3.0 GPM pumps, the price difference is negligible, and you’ll more than make your money back thanks to its enhanced longevity.

Pros
Good for cold weather use
Long-lasting design
Respectable 2.9 GPM flow rate
Can last up to four years

Cons
Costs a bit more than other 3 GPM pumps

8. Best Variable Speed RV Water Pump: Remco 55-AQUAJET

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Why we like it: You can adjust the Remco 55-AQUAJET to suit your specific situation.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Dimensions: 12.3 x 6.2 x 5.4 inches
Flow Rate: 3.5 GPM – 5.3 GPM
Pressure: 75-85 PSI
Amperage: 10 Amp
This variable RV water pump from Remco will automatically switch between a moderate flow rate for everyday use to a high flow rate when demand peaks. As a result, you get the best of both worlds on demand: a quiet, moderate pump and a gushing high-flow pump.
The best thing about the variable flow rate function here is it’s all automated. The RVer doesn’t need to do a thing; the pump will switch flow rates on its own as required.
The state-of-the-art device also comes with a five-valve design that eliminates rapid cycling, thus significantly reducing the time the pump needs to run. The big benefit here is less wear and tear on the motor and less annoying pumping noise — a win-win in our book. Another major plus to the five-valve diaphragm design is power: the unit can max out at a whopping 5.5 GPM.
So what’s the catch? Cost. The Remco 55-AQUAJET retails at ten times the price of our favorite low-cost device, the Bayite 12V DC Fresh Water Pump. Even compared to high-quality premium pumps like the SEAFLO 55-Series Diaphragm Pump, it’s still several times more expensive.
If you’re made of money, by all means, grab this one. You won’t find anything better out there. But for us economically challenged consumers, those few extra Benjamins could be better spent elsewhere.
We should also mention this one is only suitable for liquid temperatures up to 140° F, so don’t buy it to use in conjunction with a high-powered water heater.

Pros
Automatically switches between high and moderate flow
Quiet most of the time but powerful when needed
Lack of rapid cycling reduces noise and wear

Cons
Extremely expensive
Doesn’t work with water over 140F

RV Water Pumps Buyer’s Guide
Although it may seem simple enough, there’s a fair bit to learn about the RV water pump.
In our in-depth buyer’s guide, we’ll teach you everything you need to know about the device so you can shop with confidence from our list of handpicked recommendations.
RV Water Pump Versus a House Water Pump: What’s the Difference?
An RV water pump isn’t that unlike a regular domestic water pump. The device applies a predetermined PSI of pressure to pump water through your pipes and out the faucet at the desired flow rate, which we measure in gallons per minute (GPM).
The big differences between an RV and a domestic water pump are size and power. The domestic water pump doesn’t have to fit into a tiny little cupboard, so space isn’t a significant consideration. It does, however, have to pump water for multiple showers, faucets, and toilets at the same time, meaning it requires a higher PSI and GPM.
The other major difference is RV water pumps run on 12V, while domestic water pumps use 120V, a more powerful electric system that allows them to achieve higher pressure and flow rates.
Why do RV Pumps use 12V?
Fixed properties such as commercial and residential buildings run on 120V, which draws power directly from the mainland electrical grid. A 120V system allows for limitless power (provided you pay your electricity bill, of course), which enables the homeowner to run all sorts of power-hungry appliances, including a tremendous big pump.
Off-grid residences, including RVs, tiny homes, and boats, use a 12V electrical set up that relies on batteries for power. Although these batteries recharge via solar panels and your alternator as you drive, the power they offer is still limited. The advantage is you don’t need to be connected to the power grid.
RV water pumps use a 12V electrical system to allow the camper to bathe, wash, cook, and drink fresh water in far-flung places. You don’t need to be hooked up to an RV park to run your 12V water pump.
The Benefits of a 12V Water Pump

Is an RV water pump worth the hassle and expense?
Absolutely. The device is one of the most crucial pieces of technology in your rig. Water is life, after all.
Let’s take a quick look at the key advantages of installing a 12V water pump into your RV.
Constant Flowing Water
The number one benefit is obvious: a constant flow of clean water. So long as you’ve remembered to top your water tank up, you’ll have access to fresh flowing water 24/7, wherever you may roam.
Energy Efficiency
A 12V RV water pump uses very little power, so you won’t have to worry about it running your batteries flat. A neat advantage of the 12V system is you don’t need to pay electricity bills. Your battery will recharge from the engine as you drive or the sun via solar panels on the roof.
Space-Saving Design
Unlike those big bulky domestic units, the RV water pump is compact enough to squeeze into a small cupboard. Space is always at a premium in an RV, so this petite stature is of utmost importance.
Easy Installation
While you’d usually need to pay for a professional to install a domestic model, RV water pumps are simple enough for a skilled DIYer to fit. A 12V system is also much less dangerous than a 120V system, which means you’re not legally obliged to contract an installation professional in most American states.
The Key Factors to Consider
In this section, we’ll explain the key factors to consider in more detail. That way, you’ll be in a better position to make an informed decision, and you’ll end up with a more appropriate pump.
Dimensions
Even the most ostentatious, over-sized rigs have limited room to play with. And that’s why RV pump manufacturers focus intently on ensuring each device is as compact as can be.
Bigger pumps are generally capable of delivering a higher flow rate. The trick to purchasing the perfect sized pump is to get one that’s as big as possible yet still small enough to fit inside the allocated space in your rig. Be super careful not to go too big as your new pump will be useless if it doesn’t fit.
Carefully measure the space where you’ll install it and leave an inch or so wiggle room into your calculations. You’ll also need to factor the wires and cables into the equation.
We’ve included the relevant dimension details into the ‘Quick Facts’ section for each recommendation to make the selection process easier for you.
Flow Rate
Flow rate refers to how much water your pump will send through the pipes, which we measure in gallons per minute (GPM).
A higher GPM requires a spatially larger and more expensive pump. Therefore, if space and budget are key considerations, it’s worth working out roughly how much water you’ll use.
If you live by yourself in a small Class B RV or trailer, chances are you won’t be using the faucet, shower, and toilet at the same time. The most water-hungry device is going to be your shower, which requires an average of about 3 GPM, although it’s possible to get water-efficient models that use less than that. So for a solo RVer (or a couple who won’t do the dishes and shower simultaneously), a water pump of 3 GPM or thereabouts will be sufficient.
It is possible to find pumps that go lower, even as low as 1 GPM. While cheap and compact, these pumps don’t deliver a high enough flow rate for bathing. But if you’re looking to run one single faucet and plan to shower at public facilities, then a cheap 1 GPM water pump would suffice.
Families traveling in big bus-style rigs or massive fifth-wheelers, on the other hand, are going to have far higher water usage requirements. To pump out enough water to run the shower, a faucet or two, and/or the toilet all at once, you’ll need at least 5 GPM, preferably even more if possible.
For a high-flow RV water pump at an affordable price, we recommend the SEAFLO 55-Series Diaphragm Pump, which boasts an impressive 5.5 GPM.
Water Pressure
Whether for domestic or RV use, a pump works by applying pressure to water, which forces it up through the pipes and out of your faucet. We measure this pressure in a unit called PSI, or pounds per square inch.
The PSI of a water pump can affect the flow rate. For example, a higher PSI usually entails a higher GPM. However, the two units are not one and the same. Be careful when evaluating pressure because too high a PSI could cause your pipes to burst.
The good news is choosing the appropriate PSI for your rig is easy: simply check the owner’s manual to determine the acceptable range. If you’ve lost your manual (been there, done that), try searching for a PDF version online. Failing that, just aim for a PSI that’s identical or similar to your previous pump and you should be okay.
Amperage
All RV and marine water pumps run on a 12V electrical system, which draws power from an in-built battery bank. These batteries — be they lead-acid AGMs or lithium — have a limited amount of juice, so it’s wise to consider how much energy (amperage) your RV pump draws.
Nonetheless, even the most power-hungry pumps don’t draw excess amps because they tend to run for short periods at a time. Your fridge, fan, lights, and 12V outlets for charging laptops and phones, for example, will all consume substantially more battery power than your pump.
The bottom line? Although you should keep the amperage in mind when choosing an RV water pump, it doesn’t need be the deciding factor.
RV Water Pump Noise
In a residential building, the architect will position the water pump far enough away that you won’t hear it hammer pressure into your pipes. But because the RV water pump is located within a small enclosed space, it’s impossible to avoid hearing at least some noise when it cycles on.
The sound is somewhat similar to a soft drill, although not quite as offensive to the ears. Thankfully, every RV water pump on the market has an automated pump cycle mechanism. The pump automatically turns itself off once the desired water pressure has been achieved. As a result, you’ll only ever hear the pump making noise for a few seconds while the faucets are switched off.
But while the faucets are turned on, such as when you’re doing the dishes or taking a shower, the RV water pump will engage and make a constant noise. If you find the noise irritating, you could consider soundproofing your water pump.
Furthermore, as some RV water pumps are louder than others, you could search for a quieter model. The process can be challenging, however, as most units don’t list a decibel rating. Nonetheless, the SEAFLO Water Diaphragm Self Priming Pump has a solid reputation for being less noisy than the rest.
When To Purchase an RV Water Pump

If your existing water pump is in good working order and pumps out sufficient GPM, there’s no need to upgrade: “if it isn’t  broken, don’t fix it,” as the old saying goes.
There are only three situations when it’s worth purchasing an RV water pump.
Your Current Unit has Stopped Working
If your water pump has broken, your first step should be attempting a repair because there’s a good chance something as simple as a burnt fuse is to blame.
If you determine the motor or some other irreplaceable part is the problem, then you’ll need to purchase a whole new pump ASAP.
Your Current Pump isn’t Powerful Enough
If you aren’t getting enough GPM out of your existing pump to meet demand, then it’s worth considering an upgrade. However, it’s critical to factor size into the equation.
More powerful pumps with a higher GPM will have larger physical dimensions than less powerful units. Double-check you’ve got enough physical space to install a bigger pump.
You’re Building an RV From Scratch
The thriving #VanLife movement sees would-be wanderers worldwide convert people, movers and handyman vans into tricked out mobile homes. If you’ve decided to take on the challenge yourself, then a water pump will be an essential item on your shopping list.
Maintaining Healthy and Tasty Water
While your water pump will send water from your freshwater tank to your faucet, there’s no guarantee it’ll taste great or even be potable.
Over time, freshwater tanks have a habit of harboring mildew and algae. These unwanted photosynthetic organisms not only make your tank water taste dank; they also present a significant health hazard. What’s more, a non-food grade hose will emit gunk into the water passing through, causing it to taste foul and injecting potentially harmful toxins.
You can improve the taste and safety of the water in your RV by following these three simple steps:
Clean Your Freshwater Tank: Use an RV tank clean product to regularly flush out your freshwater tank and remove any build-up of algae.
Purchase a Food-Grade Hose: These RV-friendly hoses are specially designed for food preparation and potable water so they won’t leave behind an unpleasant taste.
Install a Water Filter: An in-line water filter on the end of your hose will filter out nasty contaminants and improve the taste. Another option is to install an under-the-sink water filter directly beneath the faucet.
RV Water Pumps FAQ
If you’ve still got a question about RV water pumps, then take the time to peruse the following FAQ.
What is the Best 12V RV Water Pump?
Although the ultimate 12V RV water pump depends on your flow rate, size, and budget requirements, we rate the The Shurflo 2008 as the best option overall. If you’ve got plenty of cash to splash, you may prefer the SEAFLO 55-Series Diaphragm Pump. On the other hand, if you’re on a tight budget, the Bayite 12V DC Fresh Water Pump would be a good choice.
How Long will an RV Water Tank Last?
If properly cared for, a high-quality RV water pump could last for ten years or more. Factors such as corrosion, cold weather, and the excessive build-up of minerals and residue can cause an RV pump to fail earlier than expected.
Can I Leave My RV Water Pump On?
Yes, you can. RVs have a switchboard that allows you to turn individual components on and off at the mains. Because the RV pump is pressure activated, it will automatically switch itself on and off as required. Therefore, there’s no harm in leaving it on at the switchboard.
How Does a 12V RV Water Pump Work?
When you open the faucet or flush your toilet, an RV water pump will detect a pressure drop and automatically engage to compensate. Because it runs on a 12V system, it draws power from your battery bank and can be used off-grid.
How Long can Water sit in an RV Freshwater Tank?
About two weeks. Any longer than that, and there’s a chance algae will start to bloom inside, ruining the taste of the water and potentially provoking health issues. If you’ve left water in there longer than two weeks, it’s time to sanitize your tank.
How Often Should I Sanitize My RV Freshwater Tank?
As a rule of thumb, if you’re living in your RV, aim to sanitize your freshwater tank every six months or so to ensure it’s free from algae and other contaminants. If you haven’t been living in your RV, you’ll need to clean the tank after two weeks of disuse.
Final Thoughts
You’re now up to speed on everything you need to know about the RV water pump. From the ideal GPM to the appropriate amperage and the perfect PSI, we’ve covered the necessary nitty-gritty details to get you shopping with confidence.
All that’s left to do now is browse through our list of 8 recommendations and find the best possible pump for you. And then, you’ll be able to enjoy tasty, clean water from the faucet of your fancy mobile home for years to come.
We’ll drink to that! More

People don’t often think about the battery in their truck until it’s not doing what they want. Maybe their new off-road lamps are dimmer than the box says they should be. Worse; maybe it’s the first snow of the year, and the truck just refuses to start. Don’t worry, though; we have this guide for you. You can pick up a new battery that won’t let you down.
We’ll get the basics out of the way first, then we’ll launch into our top ten list with reviews. Afterward, we’ll hit you with some extra information and answer all the pressing questions.

Quick Start Guide to Truck Batteries
If you are upgrading your old battery or just replacing one that has flatlined, there are a few things you need to consider. This quick guide will get you all the info you need to make an informed decision.
Main Properties
Batteries are fairly simple, which is a good thing when you choose one because there’s not a lot of information you need to have before diving in. The following are the things that are the primary considerations.
Type: We’ll go more in-depth after the reviews, but there are three main types of battery you’ll find for your truck. Lead-acid batteries are cheap but can spill. Most truck batteries are AGM batteries. They can’t spill and can hold a charge better, but they are more expensive. Lithium batteries are incredibly lightweight and energy-dense but very expensive and rare.
CCA: Cold Cranking Amps, or CCA, is a rating that basically tells you how much juice a battery can put out to start your car when it’s cold out. Bigger motors and colder temperatures need more amps.
Size: We’ll talk more about size in a moment, but you’ll have to double-check the physical size of the space where a battery goes in your truck to make sure the new one will fit.
Reserve: The reserve capacity is a measurement of how long a battery can put out 2.5 amps. The higher the reserve, the more accessories you can have hooked up like lights and aftermarket subwoofers.
Terminal Style: Most vehicles use top post, or SAE, style terminals. There are other styles, though, like the side bolt style that is common in GM vehicles or the top bolt style that is common on high-performance engines. You can buy adapters, so it’s not the end of the world if you get the wrong terminal size.
Compatibility
We mentioned size and terminal style above. Terminal style is pretty straightforward, and it’s something you can purchase adapters for. Size is a little more complicated.
First off, many batteries use different terms to describe the same size. A group 94 battery is the same size as a group H7 battery, for instance. Second, just because your truck uses a group 34 or similar battery, that doesn’t mean that other batteries won’t fit. You may have to do some research to find out what size battery will fit in your truck. Browsing forums is one good way, and you can always just use a tape measure and find out for sure.
We will give you the dimensions in inches because if you are upgrading your battery, it may be bigger than stock. If you’d like, here is a good cross-reference chart.
Other Considerations
There are a handful of other considerations that might sway you towards one battery or the other. You will definitely want to check the main considerations first since those properties will allow you to get what you want out of your truck.
Price: Price is often a limiting factor, and even though no one wants to think about it, it’s the reason that not everyone is running lithium batteries.
Longevity: You can expect a battery to last at least 3 years, but some are designed to last a lot longer.
Durability: Trucks get abused, so you are going to want a battery that can stand up to a lot of damage. With that in mind, we don’t suggest any batteries that can’t handle being in a work vehicle. Still, some are more durable than others, so if you want the best, just keep an eye out for it.
As we get into the reviews, keep in mind that it’s better to get more power than you need than it is to end up with too little. You won’t hurt the engine if you put a 900CCA battery in a truck that requires 200CCA, but you can damage the starter if you do the opposite.

Top 10 Best Truck Batteries 2021
1. Best Overall Battery: Optima RedTop

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Why we like it: Optima Batteries are synonymous with high-performance batteries; you can’t go wrong picking up one of their offerings for your truck.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance
Type: AGM
CCA: 720
Size: 10 5/16″ x 6 13/16″ x 7 5/8″
Reserve: 90 minutes
Terminal Style: Top post and side bolt
Why It’s Good for Your Truck
For most people, the Optima RedTop is the perfect truck battery. It’s nearly indestructible, it offers a good amount of cranking amps, and they are designed to fit right into the most common trucks on the road. That’s the reason you’ll see Optima booths if you go to places where custom trucks are; hit up the shops at Hammers or Gambler, and you’ll see K&N, Fox, and Optima all in a line.
That actually leads to the hardest part about owning an Optima battery. They are so synonymous with performance batteries that everyone and their mother will have to come up to you and tell you about how they read on a forum once that some other brand is actually better. Just ignore them; the reason Optima has been one of the kings of the aftermarket scene for so long is that, yes, actually, their batteries are fantastic.
How Does it Compare?
The RedTop is a perfect general purpose battery, but as soon as you start looking for something specific, you’ll find better options. The XS Power battery here is a lot better if you have a large aftermarket stereo, for instance, and if you really want to shut everyone up with your battery choice, just blow their minds by picking up a lithium battery.
The choice you are probably trying to make, though, is whether or not you need the Optima YellowTop or if the RedTop will be fine. Get the YellowTop if you have a lot of lights and a winch or an onboard compressor. Otherwise, you’ll be fine saving the money and getting the RedTop.

Pros
Very durable
Optima is an industry-leading brand
Works in a wide variety of vehicles

Cons
Low reserve capacity
People will criticize you for getting something popular

2. Best Premium Battery: Lithiumpros C925

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Why we like it: Lithium batteries are amazing. You get 925 amps from a battery that only weighs 8 pounds.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance
Type: Lithium
CCA: 925
Size: 6.5” x 6.93” x 4.92″
Reserve: 53 minutes
Terminal Style: Top bolt
Why It’s Good for Your Truck
At a glance, this battery is a perfect truck battery based on the specs. 925 cranking amps is more than enough for almost anything, and the very small size makes it liable to work in any situation. What takes it from the category of “pretty good battery” to “insanity” is the fact that it weighs 7.75 pounds.
To put that into perspective, this ACDelco battery has very similar performance numbers, but it weighs a staggering 51 pounds. If you are building an off-road rig or just work on your truck a lot, shaving 40 pounds off your front end is awesome.
Lithium technology has a lot of other advantages as well. They can be charged very quickly, just in case you run it, and unless you intentionally tamper with them, they are very hard to damage. You’ll hear stories about LiPo batteries exploding from time to time, but the truth is that’s extremely rare. It just makes for a good headline.
How Does it Compare?
The downside to lithium batteries, especially when used in vehicles, is that they are very expensive. They are reserved for people who want to show off and for people that absolutely need the highest performing battery possible with the lowest weight. 99% of people will be just fine with something like a RedTop.
This lithium battery also isn’t a good fit if you need something with a lot of reserves. It can put out a lot of amperage for the size, but it can’t do that for very long. That’s really where the big AGM batteries reign supreme. If you have an aftermarket sound system that you love to run, consider picking up the XS Power instead.

Pros
Very compact
Incredibly lightweight
High amperage rating

Cons
Very expensive
Not much reserve capacity

3. Best Small Truck Battery: Odyssey PC925

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Why we like it: Odyssey batteries are well-known for lasting a long time and being durable. It’s perfect for a small work truck that you have to rely on.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance
Type: AGM
CCA: 330
Size: 05” x 5.83” x 6.64”
Reserve: 52 minutes
Terminal Style: Top bolt
Why It’s Good for Your Truck
If you have a big truck or live where it’s really cold, it’s actually not good for your truck. The RedTop or bigger Odyssey is better; those have the juice to power a diesel truck or a bunch of lights.
Not all trucks are large trucks, though. If you own an older Tacoma or a Frontier, you don’t need 700 CCA, and you don’t need to pay the premium for those extra amps. However, what you do need is a battery that is incredibly reliable and can handle the abuse that naturally comes with using a truck like a truck. The Odyssey is perfect for that. Just make sure to grab some SAE adapters.
How Does it Compare?
This is the lowest power battery on our list, and it’s really only suitable for small trucks. Even an F-150 needs more power. That’s why we rate the RedTop so highly; it’s nearly a universally good fit.
The thing is that there aren’t a lot of really great batteries for small trucks. Most of the time, you’ll be forced to get a standard lead-acid deal like the Everstart. Getting an AGM battery, especially a really high-quality one like Odyssey offers, will be a big upgrade.

Pros
High-quality
Very durable
A great upgrade for small trucks

Cons
Very low amp rating
Doesn’t have standard posts

4. Best Off-Road Battery: Optima YellowTop

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Why we like it: The Optima YellowTop will give you enough power to run a ton of lights, winches, and other essential offroading toys.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance
Type: AGM
CCA: 750
Size: 10″ x 6.875″ x 7.8″
Reserve: 120 Minutes
Terminal Style: Top post and side bolt
Why It’s Good for Your Truck
The Optima YellowTop is the battery you buy if you are running a radio, a ton of lights, a winch, and an air compressor. It’s specially designed to handle being completely discharged and then recharged, so when your accessories drain it down and the alternator builds it back up, you aren’t shortening the battery life.
The yellow battery is also stronger and more resistant to damage than the red one. It’s very common to go to off-road events like Hammers or Baja and see a sea of mangled vehicles, each with a YellowTop being pulled out and put into the next runner.
How Does it Compare?
It’s a pretty expensive battery, and most people will be absolutely fine with the RedTop. Unless you are really planning on abusing your battery, you won’t really notice the benefit that spending those extra dollars will get you.
Also, even though it is meant for trucks that are running a ton of accessories, it doesn’t have a very high power rating. Especially not compared to some of the monster batteries on our list like the Odyssey 31-PC2150T that has nearly twice the reserve and cranking amps. If you have a big diesel, you will really want those extra amps, so consider getting the Odyssey instead.

Pros
Incredibly durable
Has extra reserve for runnings lights and radios
Lasts a long time

Cons
On the expensive side for the amount of power
Doesn’t have enough cranking amps for a bid diesel

5. Best Budget Battery: EverStart Maxx

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Why we like it: It’s just a cheap, everyday basic battery. Sometimes that’s really all you need.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance
Type: Lead Acid
CCA: 650
Size: 9.1” x 6.8” x 8”
Reserve: 85 minutes
Terminal Style: Top Post
Why It’s Good for Your Truck
There is one very good reason to buy this battery for your truck: it’s cheap. There are a ton of reasons that a cheap battery is just fine. If you don’t live where it gets very cold, or don’t plan on abusing your truck, or your truck is pretty much stock, or you just don’t plan on keeping the truck for much longer, or whatever. There’s no reason to spend a ton of money on a battery if you don’t need to.
Just be aware that there are a lot of limitations on a flooded cell battery than an AGM battery does not have. They need to vent, they don’t have good reserve capacities, and they can spill if they are damaged.
How Does it Compare?
Nothing on our list is even close to the same price, so if money is your primary concern, then nothing really compares. However, compared to the entire truck’s cost, you really aren’t spending much more to get an Optima RedTop. A RedTop is an all-around better battery for an everyday truck.
If you don’t have an everyday truck, every other battery on our list is better. Not being able to sit for long periods and hold a charge is another drawback of traditional lead-acid batteries that AGM and lithium batteries don’t have. Any truck that has to be stored or isn’t used very often will benefit a lot from any of the AGM batteries we recommend.

Pros
Very inexpensive
Good enough for most vehicles
Very common

Cons
Can spill
Can’t hold the same level of charge as AGM or lithium

6. Best High Amp Battery: XS Power D3400

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Why we like it: If you have a serious sound system or a ton of other aftermarket goodies, you need a battery like this to run them all.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance
Type: AGM
CCA: 1150
Size: 24” x 7.16” x 6.89”
Reserve: 160 Minutes
Terminal Style: Top bolt
Why It’s Good for Your Truck
XS Power is one of the most well-known batteries in the car audio world. If you run some bigger amps and a couple subs, you need a battery that can keep up with the power required. This is that battery. With a massive amp rating and deep reserves, you can roll up to your destination and blast tunes without worry.
It’s also a fantastic thing to grab if your stock battery just isn’t cutting it anymore for whatever reason. Signs of a battery that is too weak for your setup include dimming lights, slow starting, and low power spots during acceleration. A high-output battery like the XS will solve those issues assuming your alternator can keep up.
How Does it Compare?
There are two batteries that the XS Power is easy to compare with, and each one serves a different purpose while all being high-performance. First up is the YellowTop. The YellowTop has a lower amp rating but is a lot more likely to survive being smashed. If you do more off the road than on the road, you’ll probably be happier with the YellowTop.
Second up is the monster Odyssey. It’s more expensive but has a lot more juice. The XS Power is perfect for a good sound system and a few lights. The big Odyssey is good for powering a football stadium.
One of the issues that might push you away from the XS Power is the m6 terminals. Both the YellowTop and the Odyssey have standard posts, but the XS is geared more for the audio crowd who like to use them as secondary batteries. Just be sure to pick up some post adapters like these that will fit your current setup.

Pros
High amperage rating
Built for aftermarket audio
Decent reserve power

Cons
Not as good at surviving vibrations as others
Doesn’t come with standard terminals

7. Best Fleet Truck Battery: ACDelco 94RAGM

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Why we like it: They are on the large side, but they are available everywhere and nearly bulletproof. That’s perfect if you ever need to exchange them or find replacements reliably.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance
Type: AGM
CCA: 800
Size: 4” x 6.9” x 7.5”
Reserve: 140 minutes
Terminal Style: Top post
Why It’s Good for Your Truck
If you have a no-frills work truck or van or maintain a bunch of trucks and vans, then having a straightforward, easy to deal with battery is invaluable. That’s where this ACDelco really shines through. It’s a big battery, and it’s the same size you’d find in a lot of very common fleet vehicles like the Chevy Silverado.
You can get them replaced anywhere. They easily drop into some of the most common vehicles on the road. Because of their design, they are nearly indestructible. They don’t look fancy or anything, but they get the job done.
How Does it Compare?
It makes more power than a RedTop and has a bigger reserve. They are about the same price, so if you are deciding between the two, the ACDelco is a better value. It just won’t say “Optima” on the side of it, and even though it’s strong, it’s not “catch fire and keep working” strong.
In fact, the ACDelco AGM is simply one of the best values out there for what you get out of it. That’s largely because it’s such a common battery; availability keeps the cost down. Nothing on our list other than a wimpy flooded lead battery compares in that regard.

Pros
Good value
Fits a lot of common trucks
It is available at a lot of locations

Cons
On the large side
A bit plain

8. Best Big Truck Battery: Odyssey 21-PC2150T

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Why we like it: Big trucks need big power to start, and this battery has it. With 1,150 CCA at its disposal it will start your vehicle.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance
Type: AGM
CCA: 1150
Size: 13.07” x 6.91” x 9.7”
Reserve: 205
Terminal Style: Top post
Why It’s Good for Your Truck
If your truck has a monster engine and needs a ton of amperage to start, and you live in a place that gets really cold, then you probably need a huge amount of amperage. That’s where this Odyssey shines by bringing you a massive 1,150 cold amps. If that can’t start your truck, it’s probably because your fuel is frozen, not because you don’t have enough power.
The extra power is also really nice if you run a ton of lights or a big inverter. Many modern work trucks have big inverters, so you can roll up to a job site and plug-in your Skill 77. A monster battery like this one means you can cut many form boards before you have to worry.
How Does it Compare?
We have one other battery on our list that has triple-digit cranking amps, and that’s the XS Power. The Odyssey here is a lot more expensive, and it’s a lot heavier, so you might be tempted to get the XS Power.
The thing is that beyond having a similar cranking amp rating printed on the side, the two batteries are very different. The XS Power is great at running your huge aftermarket stereo in your normal sized pickup. The Odyssey will run a table saw out of your big-block 1-ton. Nothing on our list really touches the Odyssey in terms of the volume of power contained.
If you don’t need the extra amps, though, consider just grabbing the RedTop. They are a lot cheaper and just as capable of surviving the abuse. Plus, they are way more likely to fit into your engine bay.

Pros
High amount of amperage
Lots of reserve capacity
Great for big motors and cold weather

Cons
Really big
Excessive for most situations

9. Longest Lasting Battery: Exide L5/49

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Why we like it: When you run a fleet of vehicles, you need reliable batteries that can be easily swapped in and out of the trucks and don’t cost too much. Delphi’s MaxStart line is a perfect fit.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance
Type: AGM
CCA: 850
Size: 13.875” x 6.875” x 7.5”
Reserve: 160 minutes
Terminal Style: Top post
Why It’s Good for Your Truck
It’s a big battery, no matter how you slice it. It has one of the highest footprints and the second-highest weight at 60 pounds. You need a decently sized engine bay to house this thing or be prepared to relocate it somewhere where there is room.
It also has really great reserve capacity to make up for the size, though. You can easily get three hours of radio from it, which is great for beach parties. What sets the Exide apart is that it can be drained down many, many times and still work fine. The whole focus of the design of the battery is centered around that. Starting after a long rest is hard on a battery, and a lot of trucks are not daily driven, so they have those long rests between starts. The Exide battery is better at surviving those conditions.
How Does it Compare?
It’s a little on the expensive side, especially compared to the very similar ACDelco battery on our list. What the ACDelco doesn’t have is the extra focus on high-quality construction that the Exide battery has.
Under consistent heavy use and harsh conditions, you won’t really notice the extra quality. All batteries, even the mighty Optima, won’t last for more than a few years if they are regularly abused. Most batteries will last 2-3 years under more normal circumstances. The Exide, however, will go 4 years and beyond pretty comfortably, and that’s what can make it worth the extra price.

Pros
Great reserve capacity
Can handle being discharged and charged frequently
Well constructed

Cons
Expensive for what it is
Takes up a lot of space

10. Best Jump Starter: TACKLIFE T8

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Why we like it: When you have a heavy-duty battery, you should carry around a jump starter that can handle the extra load. With 1,000 amps at its disposal, the TACKLIFE T8 is perfect.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance
Type: Portable jump starter
CCA: up to 1000
Size: 85” x 3.34” x 1.18”
Reserve: N/A
Terminal Style: Clamps
Why It’s Good for Your Truck
People take their trucks everywhere; that’s one of the advantages of having a big, durable truck. If you travel outside the range of a service company, though, you can risk stranding yourself. Even though most of the batteries on this list are relatively big, they are still susceptible to parasitic drain or forgetful light operators. Instead of being stranded, carry around a big jump pack like this one.
The TACKLIFE has a few advantages that make it nice for truck use, but the primary thing it offers is a full 1,000A capacity. That means you can hook it to even the biggest batteries on our list and get enough charge to start your truck.
How Does it Compare?
There are bigger jump packs out there, but for a truck 1,000Ab it is generally sufficient. If you are worried about it, this DBPower unit can hit 2,500A. The TACKLIFE is generally higher quality, though, and it’s a really good value. Most of its competitors are either lower quality or much higher cost.
What it isn’t, though, is a replacement for a bad battery. A failing battery needs to be replaced; no amount of jumping will suddenly fix it. You might be tempted to try because it’s a lot cheaper to buy a jump pack than it is to buy an Optima battery, but you’ll just end up with a burned-out pack and still have a bad battery. A simple lead-acid battery is the same price, don’t put it off.

Pros
Very portable
Can start larger motors
Good value

Cons
Won’t save a failing battery
Less capacity than some competitors

In-Depth and Extra Information
Batteries are fairly simple. They hold a charge, and your car uses that charge to run electronics and engine electrical. If you want to know a little more about them, though, you’re in the right spot.
Types of Batteries
There are three main battery types on the market right now. Each one has its own benefits and drawbacks.
Flooded Lead-Acid
Conventional car batteries are fluid-filled plastic boxes. There are lead plates that are “flooded” in a solution. They have a few big downsides. First, the fluid can spill out. Not only will that ruin the battery, but the acid itself can destroy paint and clothing.
Second, a conventional battery has to vent, which greatly limits their install options and lowers their lifespan. They are, however, very cheap. That is why they represent 90% of all batteries used in trucks.
AGM
AGM, which stands for absorbed glass-matt, are technically lead-acid batteries as well. However, the electrolyte solution isn’t just sloshing around; it is contained in a fiberglass like medium. There are some big advantages to that.
An AGM battery can be installed in any position since it can’t spill. It’s also much less susceptible to damage and can handle being charged and discharged more.
Buying an AGM Battery
You’ll also notice that almost all the batteries on our review list are AGM batteries. There are two reasons for that. The first reason is that they represent the best value, especially for a truck that will likely be abused and needs a battery that can stand up to the abuse.
The second is that even though flooded lead-acid batteries are cheaper and more common, it’s difficult to have them shipped to your house. Since an AGM battery can not spill and does not need to be filled, it can be shipped and received much more easily. In fact, since flooded lead-acid batteries are often labeled as dangerous goods, it may be impossible to receive them depending on where you live.
Lithium
Lithium batteries actually come in a variety of flavors. The one you are most likely to find for your truck is LiFePo, sometimes simply shortened to Li-Po, and it’s much safer than other types of lithium batteries.
The biggest advantage of a lithium battery is that they have an incredibly high energy density compared to other forms. That means that a battery can be much smaller, but it will produce the same power. In a car or truck, that often translates to a lot of saved weight, a lot more mounting options, and the ability to run very high voltage systems relatively easily.
They are rare, and you aren’t likely to find them outside of electric vehicles even though replacement lithium car batteries exist. That’s because they are really, really expensive and only suitable for people who need maximum performance.
Why You Might Need More Power
The biggest reason to upgrade a battery before the old one dies is that you need more amperage. The following is a list of things that might make you want more power.
It’s cold out: You’d be amazed how much temperature makes a difference in the starting power of a car. If it’s 10f out, your battery can only produce half the power as it can when it’s 50f out. Cars that are already stressed for power won’t start if it gets cold unless you upgrade the CCA.
You have an upgraded engine: If you have more accessories or a bigger alternator or have done extensive work and upped the compression, you will need more juice to turn the motor over and get it started.
You have a diesel engine and want to switch to a single battery: Many diesel trucks will use two batteries wired in parallel so that you can get the 700+ cranking amps required to start the motor. Buying a high-quality, high-amp battery will allow you to run one battery instead of having the extra complication and cost of running two.
You have a lot of accessories: Big audio amplifiers, off-road lights, and onboard compressors all take a lot of amperage to run. Your factory battery probably isn’t up to the task.
Tips on Installing a New Battery
Replacing a battery is a task that even the most green mechanic should feel comfortable attempting. There are just a few things to keep in mind if you do it yourself.
Disconnect the negative terminal first. This article from Popular Mechanics gives you a good breakdown of why just in case you are curious about why every guide will tell you to start with the negative side.
Have a place to put the battery when you remove it. Remember that they can be up to 70 pounds, so a sturdy table can save your back.
Pay attention to where the positive cable is, and make sure you install the battery the correct way. Hooking up the battery in reverse can destroy electronics and quickly become a very costly mistake.
Bring your old battery to a place that it can be recycled or properly disposed of. Usually, your local recycling center or large auto parts store will have a place for you to bring the dead battery to.
FAQ

What is the Best Truck Battery?
For most people, the best truck battery is the Optima RedTop. It’s strong, offers a lot of starting power, and they are very common in the racing world.
What are the Signs of a bad Battery?
The most common signs of a low battery include slow or no cranking, dim headlights, and occasional engine performance issues when you accelerate. In order to tell if your low battery is actually bad, you need to hook it up to a charger that can diagnose batteries. Otherwise, attempt to charge the battery and see if the problem persists.
How Long Does a Truck Battery Last?
You should expect a battery to last three years. However, specialty batteries like the Optima YellowTop and the Odyssey Extreme have been known to last much longer.
What will Make a Battery Fail Sooner?
Batteries can fail sooner for a variety of reasons. Improperly installed batteries, or battery cables that are damaged/corroded, can cause immediate failure. Accessories that are left on, parasitic draws, and things like malfunctioning interior lights will shorten the life of the battery as well.
Conclusion
Having a good battery is a great way to make sure you don’t have to worry about going on your next adventure. You will know that you’ll have the amps to start regardless of the weather, and you’ll have the reserve capacity to run your lights on the trails. More

Diagnosing fuel problems with a car is relatively easy. You hook up a gauge to the fuel rail, attempt to start the car, and then read the number. However, one of the most annoying things that can happen when you work on cars is finding out that you need to do a specific test, but you don’t own a tool that can perform that test. A fuel pressure tester is one of the special tools that can make you want to smash things if you find out you need one and don’t have one.
We made this guide for you so you can avoid that fate. In it, we’ll look at a variety of testers used in diagnosing fuel pressure issues and review them. We’ll follow up with some tips and tricks and answer a handful of questions from around the web. First, though, we’ll tell you what you need to know to choose the right tester for your project.

How to Choose a Fuel Tester
A fuel tester is a very simple tool. The most important part is a pressure gauge that reads between 0 and 100 or so PSI. Everything else just adapts them to your car and makes them easier to use. That means there are a few things you must know before you can choose a tester.
The Things You Need to Know First
Most of the following information you can find online or in your car’s manual.
What the ideal fuel pressure for your vehicle is: Some gauges don’t go beyond 100psi, some go beyond, and others are only meant for between 0-10. You’ll want to make sure your test is accurate by being in the gauge’s range.
What type of fitting your car has for testing: Many cars have a standard Schrader valve like you’d find on a tire. However, some cars require special fittings.
What style of fuel system your car has: Knowing what kind of fuel delivery system your car has can save you a lot of time. For instance, if you have a car with an older throttle body injection system, you don’t need to waste money or effort on a port injection tester.
Other Features to Look For
There are a handful of other things you might want out of a fuel pressure tester beyond the basic gauge and hose.
A case to store the tool in so that it doesn’t get damaged in a drawer.
A selection of included adapters so that you can use it in a variety of ways.
A bleed valve to make it easy to release the pressure prior to disconnecting.
A higher-quality gauge is more accurate and less likely to leak.
A hook so you can hang it up and watch from a distance.
Additional Tools for Testing
When you are testing for fuel delivery issues, knowing the fuel pressure is only step one. Rather than force you to bounce around the internet looking for other information, we included many of these additional tools on our list. You can head down the page here for a breakdown of the entire process.
As we get into our reviews, keep in mind that there may not be a tester for your specific situation. That’s the unfortunate nature of working on cars sometimes. You’ll have to either go to a dealer and find the special tool for your car or modify a tool to work. Don’t be afraid of buying a cheaper fuel pressure tester just to find out whether or not it’s actually going to fit onto your car before you commit to a quality version.

Top 10 Best Fuel Pressure Testers and Test Accessories 2021
1. Best Overall Tester: BETOOL Pro Fuel Injection Tester Kit

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Why we like it: This kit from BETOOL is such a fantastic value it’s easy to recommend to anyone looking to fill out their tool kit. It’ll last through many uses, comes in its own case, and has most the fittings you could ever need.
Editor’s Rating:

Who It’s Best For
The BETOOL test kit is a general-purpose diagnostics tool that is useful for anyone who regularly works on cars to own. It has a ton of different fittings, fits a variety of vehicles, and has a case so that the whole thing stays super organized. If someone asks us what pressure tester to get, without any other context, it’s easy to say that it’s this one.
What you don’t get is any emphasis on any one feature. People who just need a cheap tester to run a quick diagnostic won’t like the price. The Actron tester here is just fine for that. At the same time, people who work in a shop won’t like that it’s incomplete. It’s missing some of the specialized fittings and high-quality parts that daily use would require. The OTC 6550 is a better fit.
Most shade tree mechanics and car people fall in between those two extremes, though, and that’s what makes this set such a good value. Just be aware that you might have to pick up a fitting for a few dollars if you own a car on the obscure side.
Our Review
Anytime a tool comes in a case, we like it more. Especially tools like pressure testers with many tiny parts or hoses that can flail around and get stuck in drawers. We also love it when a tool is high-quality without breaking the bank. That means we love the BETOOLS test kit; it’s as simple as that. It does what it says it’s going to do, it’s not likely to break with normal use, and it won’t clutter up your toolbox.

Pros
Comes with its own case
It’s a great value
It’s good quality

Cons
A little expensive and complicated
May not have the right fitting for your specific car

2. Easiest To Use Tester: OTC 5630

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Why we like it: It’s the perfect intersection of price, quality, and functionality. It’s not the most complete kit out there, but it couldn’t be easier to use.
Editor’s Rating:

Who It’s Best For
You’ll see this same thoughts echoed in the Actron CP7818, but many people don’t want to spend much time working on their car. When something breaks, they just want to find out what’s wrong and be done with it. Those people don’t want to spend a bunch on a big, complicated toolset just to do a three-second test. The OTC 5630 is for those people.
It’s easy to use, made of decent quality parts, and is relatively inexpensive. It’s not as inexpensive as the Actron.  However, what you get by paying a little more for this OTC is the guarantee that it’s probably going to work right out of the box without any hassle. It’s just a classic “cheap brandless tool vs. Craftsman” debate. Will both of them work? Probably. But the OTC is much more likely to work more than once.
Our Review
There’s no case, and there aren’t enough fittings. Even a simple hose extension with an extra Schrader fitting would go a long way towards improving this set. At the same time, that’s what the BETOOLS set is, and if you want those things, just get that one. It’ll cost you more, though, and you’ll be stuck with a big set that you have to store.
Basically, if you just want to test your car or truck’s fuel pressure to diagnose a problem and don’t want to spend much money to do it, get this tester. It works fine.

Pros
Easy to use
Decent quality
Good value

Cons
No case
Lacks some useful fittings

3. Best Budget Tester: Actron CP7818

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Why we like it: Most of the time, you don’t need an expensive diagnostic tool; you just need something that will do the job once and allow you to get on with your work. That’s all this is.
Editor’s Rating:

Who It’s Best For
Most people who own a car don’t regularly work on them. They probably wait until something breaks before they even open the hood. If that describes you, then you probably don’t want to spend a lot of money on a diagnostic tool just to diagnose a single issue. It’s easy to use, doesn’t have extra complications, and you won’t care too much if it gets run over.
That’s where these simple testers come in handy. They aren’t high-quality, and they are really single purpose, but you can hook them to a fuel rail and test the pressure. The OTC 5630 is more or less the same as this Actron; it’s just more expensive and higher quality. Both will absolutely work. Neither come with a case, and they have the same rating. If you are just going to run the test once or twice, save your money and grab this Actron.
Our Review
There’s nothing wrong with the Actron CP7818, and that’s the biggest compliment a cheap tool can get. You just have to know what to expect in order to fully utilize it. Don’t expect a cheap tool to last forever, and don’t rely on it for specialized situations.
In fact, don’t rely on it at all; There is just an inherent risk to buying Harbor Freight levels of equipment that you might get a lemon tool. That’s why we mentioned the OTC 5630 above. The OTC is just a little less likely to be a lemon. A fuel pressure tester is not something you will use often, though, so even if it does turn out to only work once, that’s probably good enough.

Pros
Very inexpensive
Easy to use
Doesn’t have extra parts to lose

Cons
There might be some quality issues
Single-purpose

4. Best Premium Tester: OTC 6550PRO

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Why we like it: This kit is massively expensive, but if you work in a shop, you need the best quality tools out there. The OTC 65550PRO is that level of quality.
Editor’s Rating:

Who It’s Best For
This is a set for the professional mechanic. It’s unfriendly, has a ton of parts the average person will never touch, and it’s really expensive. However, suppose you are making a living working on cars. In that case, having a full pressure kit like this is absolutely necessary. Even if you aren’t making a living and just working on cars a lot, it’s a fantastic set to have around. Get your friends that come over to drink beer and watch you wrench to pitch in so you have an injection kit you can all use.
Just be aware that this kit isn’t just a pressure tester. Yes, it will do that, but if all you need is to test the rail pressure, then buy the BETOOLS kit instead. The 6550 here is for testing the rail and the injectors and servicing the rail and injectors, and repairing leaking seals if need be.
Our Review
Sometimes reviewing specialty tools can be really difficult because many of them don’t have any alternatives. If you need a test kit that includes injector testers and specialized fittings for testing obscure cars, then you buy this kit. It doesn’t really matter if there are nitpicky little problems with it; you need a tool that can do the job, and this is it.
At least OTC doesn’t make it feel like a bad thing. It’s an expensive tool, but it’s not overpriced. It’s good quality, and the case is really well put together. If you do need to buy one, you won’t feel like you are getting ripped off.

Pros
Very comprehensive
The case is well put together and organized
Good quality

Cons
Includes a lot of parts you probably won’t touch
Very expensive

5. Best Injector Tester: ALLOSUN Fuel Injector Tester

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Why we like it: Part of testing fuel pressure is testing the operation of the injectors. When coupled with a standard fuel pressure gauge, an injection tester will allow you to test the pressure in multiple spots.
Editor’s Rating:

Who It’s Best For
A fuel injector tester is a tool you need after you use a fuel pressure gauge. If all you are doing is checking the fuel rail, just get the BETOOLS gauge, and you are good to go. The fuel injector tester here is what you get if you want to continue the diagnostic process and find out the issues when the fuel rail tests out ok.
Our Review
The ALLOSUN tester is an inexpensive tester and cleaner. It looks like the more prestigious OTC tester from a distance, but it’s not as high-quality or as versatile. It is, however, very inexpensive. It will also work with most vehicles. It won’t work with diesels; those require a special tester. It’ll be fine for just about anything else, though.
The ALLOSUN is just another tool on this list that you need if you work on cars regularly. It’s not very expensive, works just fine, and is so specialized that there isn’t really anything that can take its place. The leads could definitely be longer, and it won’t survive falling off your bench, but it works fine. Usually, that’s all you need.

Pros
Inexpensive
Necessary for diagnosing modern fuel issues
Works for most gas engines

Cons
Quality could be better
You need other tools to fully utilize it

6. Best for Carburetors: 8MILELAKE Tester

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Why we like it: This tool is great for low-pressure applications, and it makes a decent vacuum tester as well.
Editor’s Rating:

Who It’s Best For
If you own a car that is on the older side and runs a carburetor, then most of the testers on this list aren’t useful for you. Many carbureted motors don’t even have a fuel pump. However, some have a small fuel pump, and most of them have vacuum-actuated parts. This tester is the right tool to test those systems.
Our Review
The 8MILELAKE test kit is a really standard “gauge attached to a hose” style tester. There are hundreds of different tools that fit the same format. Some are for testing compression, most of the ones on this list are for testing liquid pressure up to 100psi, and this one is for testing pressures that don’t exceed 10psi. Since a standard inline fuel pump is somewhere between 3-6psi, it’s perfect. It’s also inexpensive, which is always a nice bonus.
The downside is that it’s not the easiest thing to work with. Because it’s low pressure, there’s no bleed valve. Plus, it’s cheap, and the fittings are plastic. It’s pretty easy to break those fittings. It’s not a deal-breaker because you can pick up replacements anywhere car parts are sold, and they cost very little, but it can be annoying.

Pros
Great for older cars
Multipurpose
Inexpensive

Cons
Only good for low-pressure fuel systems
The design could be better

7. Cheap and Versatile: JIFETOR Fuel Tester

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Why we like it: This kit is very reasonably priced, and unlike many stand-alone tools it comes in a handy case.
Editor’s Rating:

Who It’s Best For
This tool kit is great for people who really love the idea of owning the BETOOLS kit because it’s more comprehensive and versatile than something like the Actron gauge, but only have the budget for the Actron gauge. It’s a kit that works great for just about any gas engine, and it’s inexpensive enough that anyone can pick one up to have just in case.
Our Review
Just like the Actron, the JIFETOR suffers from some quality control issues. The worst offender is the gauge itself, although we have to give them credit for including a gauge that goes up to 140psi, unlike other budget options. It will probably leak as you use it, which is par for the course when it comes to cheap fittings. It will work for testing a fuel system since the difference between a functioning pump and a malfunctioning pump is usually great enough that losing a few psi to leaks won’t make a significant difference.
What gives this tester a place on our list is the inclusion of a case. We’ve said it before, but we like it when a tool comes with a case so that you don’t have to engineer solutions to stay organized. It’s more complicated than the Actron, but that case might make it your first choice.

Pros
Very inexpensive
Comes with a case
Has a decent amount of adapters

Cons
Some quality issues
Not very accurate

8. Best OBD2 Scanner: FOXWELL NT301

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Why we like it: If you have an OBDII compliant vehicle, chances are you can diagnose a fuel issue with a simple scanner. This one from FOXWELL is good quality and has an easy to read screen.
Editor’s Rating:

Who It’s Best For
Just like the Klein multimeter we talk about here, an OBD scanner is a tool that anyone who works on cars should have. We even have an entire guide for them here.
Modern cars have tons of sensors and diagnostic capabilities, and chances are you can diagnose a fuel pressure issue without even needing to open the hood. If you notice that you have a rough idle or slow acceleration, you can check the computer first with a scanner. Chances are that’s all the further you’ll need to go.
If you have a car made before 2010 or so, though, then chances are good that you won’t get enough information from the scanner. You’ll need a pressure tester, too.
Our Review
This FOXWELL scanner is about the middle of the pack regarding price, quality, and functionality. It’s not the fastest, most comprehensive scanner. Still, it’s also much more reasonably priced than the robust diagnostics tablets that your favorite mechanic will have. It’s also easier to use than one of the many Bluetooth scanners, although it does cost more. The screen is easy to read, and it doesn’t require an app.
Long story short, if you are working on cars, you need a scanner. The FOXWELL scanner is decently priced and adequate for most situations.

Pros
Good price
Easy to use
The screen is bright and easy to read

Cons
Not as much functionality as a tablet reader
More expensive than Bluetooth readers

9. Best Multimeter: Klein Tools MM400

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Why we like it: A multimeter is an essential tool when diagnosing fuel pump issues. Knowing the fuel pressure is low only tells half the story. You need to be able to test the voltages to know the other half.
Editor’s Rating:

Who It’s Best For
Every person that works on cars should have a multimeter. To be honest, everyone should own a multimeter; they are just as useful in solving issues in your house as they are for solving issues with your vehicle.
When you find out you have a fuel pressure issue, the next step is to figure out why you have low pressure. Since a bad fuel pump is one of the least desirable issues to have, your first step should be to make sure there isn’t a simple electrical issue. You can save yourself a lot of heartache by spending an hour with a manual and a multimeter.
Our Review
There are tons of cheap multimeters on the market, and honestly, most of them are fine. The reason we recommend this more expensive Klein tool is because it’s good quality and it’s easy to use. Auto-ranging is something you won’t get with cheap meters, but it is necessary to make a meter easy to operate. On top of that, along with Ideal and Fluke, Klein is an industry-standard, so you know it will last a long time.
You may want to spend more and grab a multimeter with an amp clamp like this one. Those can be really useful for diagnosing starter issues, and they are an essential tool for working with car audio. The clamp also makes it easy to hang the meter from your hood latch and free up your hands.

Pros
Good quality
Easy to use
Has a lot of uses

Cons
A little expensive
Doesn’t have an amp clamp

10. Best for GM Duramax Diesels: Lang Tools TU-32-6

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Why we like it: The 6.6 Duramax has its own funky fitting that you use to test the pressure with. You need a specialized tool like this one if you own one of those motors.
Editor’s Rating:

Who It’s Best For
The quick and obvious answer is that this is the right tool for anyone that owns a GM truck with the Duramax diesel motor in it. You could use it for anything, but it’s so expensive that it’s not really worth it. Even a big kit like the BETOOL one we recommend will be a better purchase if you don’t need to work on a 6.6 diesel.
If you do have a Duramax, though, then at least you can put a different end on it and use it for any motor.
Our Review
We put this tool on our list to demonstrate what some specialized, brand, and car specific tools are out there. It’s not a bad tester, but it’s a whole lot more expensive than a comparable general-purpose tester. Lang Tools can even get away using a mediocre gauge because it’s such a specialized tool that you probably don’t have other options.
The good news is that if you do buy one, it will make your life a lot easier. The alternative is cobbling something together using a mile of plumbers tape, a standard tester, and about 20 trips to the hardware store. The price doesn’t seem so high once you take that into account.

Pros
Necessary if you own a 6.6 Duramax
It can be used for any motor if you change the end out

Cons
Expensive
The gauge is lower quality

A Closer Look at Fuel Pressure Testing
We want to give you the tools you need to solve your fuel issues. To do that, we have this section here to guide you through the basics and lead you in the direction of the more complicated concepts. To start, let’s look at whether or not you need to do a fuel pressure test in the first place.
Symptoms of Low Fuel Pressure
Low fuel pressure can present itself in a variety of ways.
Trouble starting
Loss of power under acceleration
Rough idle, especially after it’s been running for a while
Loss of gas mileage
RPMs won’t climb under load
Fuel System Basics
To be efficient when diagnosing a fuel delivery issue, you should know where the problems could be. The good news is that fuel delivery systems are not very complicated.
To start, the fuel is contained in the gas tank. That’s bolted under your vehicle. Then, on most modern cars, a fuel pump inside the fuel tank pushes fuel towards the engine, usually through a filter between the tank and the motor. At the motor, the fuel gets distributed to injectors via the fuel rail.
Older cars may have a fuel pump mounted in a remote location and often do not have fuel injectors. However, diesel cars and trucks have used fuel injectors for a very long time and will have an additional filter system for separating water from the diesel.
No matter what, it’s helpful to check your fuel filter before jumping to any other conclusions. A dirty fuel filter can cause all sorts of issues, and they are inexpensive to replace.
How to Test Your Fuel Pressure
The following steps are for testing your standard, modern fuel system. Your experience may be wildly different if you have an older or specialty vehicle, so keep that in mind. If you are a visual learner, this gentleman from Actron does a good job going over the basics. You might recognize the tester he’s using as the one we suggest if you are on a budget.
Attach the gauge to the fuel rail. If it has a hook, hang up the gauge, so you don’t risk it falling and damaging anything.
Turn the motor over using the ignition switch. A short 5-second burst is usually sufficient.
Check the gauge and note the pressure.
Check the gauge again every minute or so for about five minutes and note the pressures.
Hit the bleeder valve, if your tester is equipped with one, so gas doesn’t spray all over the place.
Disconnect the tool.
Interpreting the Results
There are not very many outcomes, which makes diagnosis easy.
If….
The pressure is within 5% and stays within 5% for the entire test, then your fuel system is getting the correct amount of pressure.
The pressure reaches the required pressure after turning over, but then lowers over time, then your fuel injectors are likely leaking.
The pressure does not get up to the specified number, then you may have a bad fuel pump.
The pressure reads higher than specified, then you may have an aftermarket fuel pump. That can be ok. However, it can also mean there is an obstruction or a damaged regulator. If you aren’t sure if you have an aftermarket pump, you may need to do some more diagnostics to find out.
Other Necessary Tools
We mentioned above that testing the fuel pressure is only one step in finding out what can be wrong with a fuel delivery system. Here are some of those tools and how to use them.
An OBDII Scanner
Cars since 1997 are required to have an OnBoard Diagnostic computer. Since it’s the second generation, they call it OBD two, often stylized as OBDII. Often, a faulty fuel pump or low fuel pressure will create fault codes that can be read with an OBD Scanner. You can read a little more about it here, but the error codes themselves are often specific to the vehicle.
Unfortunately, not every vehicle has the sensors necessary to diagnose a fuel pump. An OBDII tool is still a very necessary tool to have if you own a modern vehicle and work on it, so it’s a good idea to grab one even if it can’t directly diagnose your fuel system. We have a great buying guide for OBDII scanners here.
A Multimeter
If you suspect that your fuel pump may have gone bad, a multimeter can confirm that diagnosis. Honestly, just like an OBDII tool, a multimeter is something that anyone who works on cars should have at their disposal. This website has a how-to guide on diagnosing a fuel pump, but there are two basic things to check.
First, make sure that there is the correct voltage being sent to the pump. You can do that by finding the fuel pump relay and testing both sides of the switch for DC voltage. Hopefully, it’s around 12v; otherwise, you have an electrical issue. Second, test the relay itself. Watch this video for that process.
A Fuel Injection Tester
A modern fuel system has two main components: the pump, which is diagnosed with a multimeter, and the injectors, which are tested with the aptly named fuel injection testers. A basic fuel injection tester is a simple plug that is hooked to a power source. You remove the injector and plug it into the tester and monitor the spray.
You can also do a basic diagnostic of the injectors using the multimeter. You’ll have to look up your specific injectors’ resistance rating, then disconnect them and test them for the specified ohms. This site is an excellent resource for diagnosing fuel injector issues, so give it a look if you think you are having that issue.
FAQ

Can a Compression Tester be Used for Fuel Pressure?
You can use a compression tester as a fuel pressure gauge, but it’s not recommended. First, a compression gauge is often meant to read pressures much higher than a fuel pressure gauge, so you won’t get an accurate reading. Second, they likely won’t have an end on them that is compatible with a standard fuel rail.
What Should My Fuel Pressure Be?
Every car is different. You can find your ideal pressure listed in your car’s manual or after a quick search online. You should find that out before buying a pressure tester just in case you need a gauge that can read higher than 100psi, which is uncommon.
Is Higher Fuel Pressure Better?
High-performance engines often have higher fuel pressures, and people who modify their motors will often do modifications that affect the pressure. However, in general, you want your fuel pressure to be within one psi of specification. If your fuel pressure test comes back higher than normal, it may be because there is an obstruction or your pump is malfunctioning.
What Causes Low Fuel Pressure?
That depends on when you see a low pressure. If the pressure builds to the correct specification but slowly lowers, the fuel injectors are probably leaking. A bad fuel pump will never get to the correct pressure, and a bad fuel filter may make it take longer to build adequate pressure.
Conclusion
That’s about all there is to it. If you have a rough time starting your car or lose power going up hills, it might be time to get a fuel pressure tester and open the hood. Hopefully, this guide is what you needed to make sure the process is as frustration-free as possible.
One final tip to leave you with; use a rag like an oven mitt to unscrew the tester from the rail. That way, any residual pressure will get caught in the rag instead of spraying fuel into your eyes, which can be very painful. More