More stories

  • in

    The 10 Best Car Fog Lights 2021

    While car owners sometimes refer to their brights as ‘fog lights,’ true fog lights are really a completely different category of headlights, installed separately from primary lights, daytime running lights, and brights. Unlike these conventional lights, which are all used during the daytime, fog lights are used to help other drivers see you in foggy and snowy conditions, while illuminating the road instead of reflecting off of the fog.

    What’s the Difference Between Fog Lights and High Beams?
    When shopping for auxiliary lights, it’s important to know exactly what you’re looking for. While many use the terms ‘fog lights’ and ‘brights’ interchangeably, they’re quite different. As opposed to defining every type of auxiliary light, we’ll define fog lights below:
    Fog lights are a specific type of headlight mounted on the car specifically to cut through fog and illuminate the road ahead. Instead of lighting up the whole field of vision ahead, as with a standard headlight, the lights have a cutoff meant to keep the road illuminated without illuminating the fog itself. Most commonly, they plug into an existing slot (typically a factory option) on your vehicle below your headlights on the bumper.
    Features to Consider in a Car Fog Light
    Since car fog lights vary from small accessories to huge light bar setups, features can widely vary between models. Considering the following features below can help you get to the perfect car fog light setup for your vehicle.
    Type of Bulb
    Although most fog lights in the past used to be powered by halogen bulbs, since LEDs and HIDs have become more widespread and affordable, popular car fog lights are now sold with all types of bulbs.
    LED Lights
    LEDs, short for light-emitting diodes, are an ultra-energy-efficient and inexpensive way to provide high levels of illumination. Although there are plenty of expensive LED setups, the least expensive fog lights also tend to be LED-based. Since they’re so efficient, they don’t tax car batteries as much as other types of lights.
    Halogen Lights
    Incredibly powerful, halogen bulbs light up the road or trail with astonishing brightnesses of up to 12,000 lumens. These bulbs are not built for energy efficiency by any means, and although they’ve been largely phased out for residential use, halogen bulbs still remain on the market for cars due to their incredible illumination abilities.
    HID Lights
    Hid lights, short for high-intensity discharge lamps, are bulbs that look like a thin version of the incandescent bulbs you’re familiar with in your home. They’re less common, but relatively efficient, and above average in brightness. They work fantastically when paired with a type of headlight glass called a projector lens.
    Brightness
    Each fog light on the market has a different brightness level. Fog lights will start out at about 500 lumens and can get up to well over 5,000 lumens, although brightness and lumenage doesn’t tell the whole story. Bright bulbs that don’t have a well-defined light pattern can spill over, lighting up the fog in front of you more than the road ahead.
    Light Format
    Car fog lights can be set up in different ways depending on the intended purpose. Some small-format lights are simply for temporary emergency use while large light bars are used for heavy-duty illumination.
    Bulb
    Headlight standards like H8, H9, and H11 are typically relatively compatible with one another and use only a single bulb to screw into an already-existing housing. These bulbs aren’t the brightest or most advanced fog lights, but they do represent a major advantage over the stock bulbs that come with your car.
    Light Matrix
    While these aren’t officially car fog lights, we’ll include them in our article as they are an incredibly useful type of auxiliary light that many consider when looking to add to their existing headlights. A light matrix is what it sounds like: a large grid of small, bright bulbs (typically LEDs) that illuminate the road. While these aren’t fog lights in the traditional sense (technically, fog lights are only the lights that screw into specific slots below the bumper), they can function as fog lights when mounted downwards illuminate the road.

    Top 10 Best Car Fog Lights 2021
    1. Best Overall Car Fog Light: Marsauto 9006 LED Headlight Bulbs

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: These 4,000 lumen bulbs from Marsauto are easy to install and great compared to halogen bulbs.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance
    Type of Bulb: LED
    Lumens: 4,000
    Mounting Standard: 9006, HB4, HB4U, 9006XS
    Fog light bulbs are notorious for being difficult to install: fingers don’t fit into the holes where they’re supposed to, the metal slots are fragile and easy to strip, and the threads are razor-sharp, making it easy to cut your hands open. This bulb is one of the easiest to install, with the heat sinks in a good spot to grip onto. They’re also ‘no polarity’ bulbs that will be ready to go after 5-10 minutes, as opposed to competitor bulbs that can require housing and cover modification or even wiring changes to get them to work properly.
    These bulbs represent an improvement over a traditional halogen bulb of over 200%, but the brightness difference isn’t necessarily what helps with driver visibility: what most users consider to be more important is the tight spread of the bulb, which is really a beam of light more than an illuminating lamp. This is thanks not only to the pattern of the LEDs, but to the heat sink which helps direct the light and prevents the edges from diffusing outwards. Our only issue is lumenage, as you might prefer a slightly brighter bulb.

    Pros
    No-polarity bulbs are easy to install
    Represent a 200% improvement over halogen bulbs
    Heat sink prevents bulb from diffusing light

    Cons
    Slightly dimmer than other similar competitors

    2. Best Budget Fog Lights: Sealight LED Fog Lights

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: These 6,000-degreeKelvin bulbs blast crisp, white light for an incredibly economical price.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance
    Type of Bulb: LED
    Lumens: 4,800
    Mounting Standard: H8, H9, H11, H16
    We’re impressed with these fog lights, a set of budget bulbs that come in at only about $20 per set. While inexpensive, they’re still impressively featured in terms of stats. 4,800 lumens is double that of other economical bulbs, a 6,000°-kelvin tint produces a colorless, sharp, white light, and their LEDs are made with proprietary 6CPS technology, producing crisp light that doesn’t diffuse over longer distances.
    The particular bulb works in a wide variety of mounting standards, compatible with H8, H9, H11, and H16 fittings. This makes them quite a bit more versatile than other fittings. Be aware that the H16 fitting will produce a gentler, blue light, so if you’re looking for something ultra-bright and have an H16 fitting, consider a different bulb.

    Pros
    Works with H8, H9, H11, and H16 fittings
    4800-lumen brightness is double the brightness of other low-priced bulbs
    6CPS tech produces bright light that doesn’t diffuse
    6000 Kelvin tint is crisp and white

    Cons
    When used with H16 produces blue light
    4,800-lumen bulbs are less bright than expensive models

    3. Alla Lighting H11 LED Fog Light Bulbs

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: These H11 bulbs are incredibly long-lasting with an intelligent integrated circuit in the LED and a year-long warranty.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance
    Type of Bulb: LED
    Lumens: 2,800
    Mounting Standard: H11
    These bulbs aren’t the brightest on our list at 2,800 lumens, but they have a whole host of extra features that make them a standout product in our book. The first is a year-long warranty, almost unheard of in products at this price point. The second is an ‘intelligent’ LED-integrated circuit which improves cooling of the LED lights, increasing performance, lifespan, and even durability (when hot, LED bulbs become more fragile).
    Fitting into the H11 mounting standard and with a 6,000° Kelvin, ultra-bright white temperature, these are beyond the ‘pure white’ standard of 5,000° Kelvin into ‘blue light’ territory. While most drivers prefer yellow for extremely foggy conditions, plenty of drivers prefer the sharp, blue light these bulbs provide, especially in light fog or rain conditions.

    Pros
    Use a lighter bulb with an intelligent circuit for durability
    Sharp blue light works in light fog or rain conditions
    Year-long warranty covers any damage or product failures

    Cons
    2,800-lumen bulbs are some of the dimmest on our list
    These bulbs don’t produce clear white light

    4. Best HID Fog Lights: HID Warehouse Xenon Replacement Bulbs

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: These lights are our favorite HIDs on the market. Producing a soft yet bright blue light, they’re one of the few HID fog lights that can still be purchased.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance
    Type of Bulb: HID
    Lumens: 2700 lm
    Mounting Standard: H8, H9, H11
    HID lights make a comeback in this two-bulb set that’s compatible with H8, H9, and H11 sockets. While HID bulbs have shorter lifespans than LED bulbs, they have some distinct advantages over halogen lamps. From brightness to efficiency, HID lights have performance that’s orders of magnitude better than their halogen counterparts, for prices lower than LEDs.
    While HID bulbs aren’t as bright as LEDs, they’re both accessible and cheap. High-end competitors like Hikari produce bulbs with prices approaching $100, these can be purchased in the $20 price range.
    Product quality is backed up by a two-year warranty and a product guaranteed to stringent ISO 9001 standards for water and shock resistance. They’ve got many of the same quality assurances as LED bulbs for a fraction of the price. Due to their intricacies and low brightness, though, they’re best paired with a projector lens.

    Pros
    Inexpensive bulbs far outcompete halogen competitors
    Great product quality with a strong year-long warranty
    Some of the cheapest bulbs on the market
    Holds up to stringent ISO 9001 standards for water and shock resistance

    Cons
    Not as bright as LED bulbs

    5. Alla Lighting LED Fog Lights

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: These ultra-bright bulbs are efficient, easy to install, and come with a warranty.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance
    Type of Bulb: LED
    Lumens: 2,600
    Mounting Standard: H10
    The main feature to pay attention to with these bulbs? 2,600, the number of lumens packed into each of these 15-watt LEDs. That’s about 600% more than a stock bulb, yielding a noticeable improvement in both road surface illumination and visual range.
    With a 6,000° Kelvin light temperature that gives an ultra-clear white light temperature, range is good, although this ultra-white light combined with 5,200 combined lumens of brightness in some cases actually worsens fog performance. As a set of backroad brights meant to illuminate the road or trail, these work fantastically, but in particularly foggy conditions, they light up the fog itself, making visibility even worse.
    The bulbs use an H10 mounting standard, which is a little less universal than the H8/ H9/ H11 standard. Most trucks use this type of fitting, but check your vehicle’s owner’s manual to see if these bulbs will work for you. If they’re compatible, count on a full-year manufacturer’s warranty for any issues you have with the two-bulb set.

    Pros
    6,000° Kelvin bulbs produce clear white light
    600% more illumination than a stock bulb
    5,200 combined lumens of power (2,600 per bulb)
    Use a standard that works with most trucks

    Cons
    H10 mounting standard isn’t as versatile as the H8/ H9/ H11 standard
    In extreme conditions they make visibility even worse

    6. Torchbeam T2 LED 12,000 Lumen Bulb

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: These fog lights offer 12,000 lumens of light, which is impressive for the low price range. Furthermore, these lights last up to 50,000 hours!
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance
    Type of Bulb: LED
    Lumens: 12,000
    Mounting Standard: H8 / H9 / H11
    At a practically-daylight 12,000 lumens with 6,500° Kelvin of crystal clear white light, it’s impressive that bulb manufacturer Torchbeam has managed to produce this level of light for a remarkably low price. This bulb, more than any other on our list, is designed to have impressive statistics: alongside the incredibly luminous, white bulbs is a 50,000-hour quoted lifespan. Considering that the average car’s lifetime is just a fraction of that, these might be the only set of bulbs you’ll buy for your car for as long as you own it.
    Each of the two lights in this mid-range set utilizes just a single bulb, a relatively uncommon design for fog lights. While brightness is good in milder conditions, these bulbs have a tendency to diffuse in heavy fog, lighting up the mist just as much as the road ahead. This can be dangerous, although it’s probably not advisable to be driving in those conditions anyways. They’re almost too bright, although in low traffic conditions in milder weather, they’re perfect.

    Pros
    H8 / H9 / H11 mounting standard is versatile
    6,500° kelvins of light produce an incredibly clear, white light
    50,000-hour quoted lifespan can outlast your car
    Can be used in low traffic conditions in mild weather

    Cons
    Light diffuses in heavy fog, causing durability to suffer
    Can light up the mist instead of the road

    7. SNGL H16 Type 2 Super Bright CREE LED Fog Light Bulbs

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: Each of these fog lights has 12 LEDs, meaning the user can lose a single LED bulb and still be relatively unaffected.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance
    Type of Bulb: LED
    Lumens: 10,000
    Mounting Standard: H16
    These 6,000° Kelvin bulbs produce a clean white light via multiple light-emitting diodes on each stem, which doesn’t just improve light diffusion, but also means that you can lose a single LED without losing the entire light. While the manufacturer, SNGL, claims a powerful 10,000 lumens for these fog lights, that’s inaccurate on some level: the calculation is based on a sum total of each of the 12 LED bulbs in the product. Compare it to a single bulb design, and you end up with a brightness that’s realistically more in the range of 2,500 to 5,000 lumens.
    They do have a unique feature that other fog lights in this price range don’t have: adjustability. Each bulb has a starting setting that can be doubled or tripled in brightness, maximizing utility on backroads or allowing you to tone down the light in case you want to use these lights on roads with heavier traffic.

    Pros
    12 bright LEDs pump out a sum total of 10,000 lumens
    Three adjustable levels of brightness
    Useful for drivers transitioning from high traffic to low traffic areas
    Improved light diffusion

    Cons
    Brightness is overexaggerated due to measurement procedure

    8. Best for Ultra-Foggy Conditions: Alla Lighting H10 Fog Light Bulbs

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: These LED bulbs are slightly less bright than competitors, which is actually better in some severe-weather applications.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance
    Type of Bulb: LED
    Lumens: 2800
    Mounting Standard: H10
    While these bulbs are impressively capable for being some of the cheapest H10 bulbs on the market, there are a few sacrifices that manufacturer Alla Lighting has made to cut down on the price. Firstly: lumens. 2,800 lumens (1,400 on each bulb) are better than a daytime running light, for sure, but actually less bright than most LED headlights on the market today.
    That’s not the end of the world, however, as some diehards in ultra-foggy and ultra-snowy climates swear by lower lumen lights in the worst conditions. Still, though, if you’re expecting something ultra-bright, look for something with more lumens such as the SNGL H16 Type 2 Super Bright CREE LED Fog Light Bulbs.
    They’re high-quality with a longer lifespan than most competitors, but don’t reach the 50,000-hour rating of expensive bulbs. They still back up their products, though. Alla Lighting is so confident in their bulbs that they’ll cover any material issues or product failures with their one-year warranty. It’s touches like that which make this already affordable product even more attractive, especially for shoppers on a budget.

    Pros
    Economical bulbs are less bright but may be superior in poor-weather performance
    Cover product failures or material issues with a one-year warranty
    Lower lumen bulbs sometimes work better in lower conditions

    Cons
    Those seeking brighter bulbs should look elsewhere

    9. Best Premium Fog Lights: Hikari Ultra H11/ H8/ H9 LED Bulb Fog Light Conversion Kit

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: These bulbs from aftermarket outfitter Hikari are pricey, but one of the best options if you’re looking to splurge on your fog lights.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance
    Type of Bulb: LED
    Lumens: 12,000
    Mounting Standard: H8 / H9 / H11
    If you’re looking for some ultra-high-end lights for your tuner car or JDM vehicle, this set from manufacturer Hikari could be what you’re looking for. They’re more heavily engineered than competitor products, with plenty of thought put into all aspects. From heat retention to light pattern and even the graphics on the lights themselves, there’s a reason these are the most expensive on our list by a factor of about two. The heat sink, counterintuitively, isn’t necessarily for overheating; LEDs run pretty cold anyways. Instead, it improves the focus, yielding to a more concentrated beam that projects light in a tight spread, great for fog, rain, and snow.
    12,000 lumens at 6,000° Kelvin mean these are both brighter and have a cleaner white light pattern than comparable halogens. Independent testing shows that these bulbs put out light that’s 270% more bright than competitors. Part of that is thanks to the concentrated light pattern that makes these safer than competitor products to use in traffic. The attractive styling and beam-like spread makes these great for your car’s looks as well, although it comes at a high price.

    Pros
    Compact lights are 270% brighter than stock competitors
    Heat sink keeps the pattern and spread cohesive
    Can be used in traffic safely
    Good for fog, rain, and snow

    Cons
    Double the price of similar competitors

    10. Sylvania H11 SilverStar zXe Gold High Performance Headlight

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: These bulbs are made with a technology many consider to be outdated, but there are still plenty of people that swear by the tech.
    Editor’s Rating:

    At a Glance
    Type of Bulb: Halogen
    Lumens: 5,600
    Mounting Standard: H11
    While halogen bulbs have been largely replaced by LED fog lights, there are some drivers that are still fans enough to pay the product’s premium price. The soft, gently diffusing light is what many mountain residents prefer, especially when driving in the winter in heavy snowfall.
    Unfortunately, there are reasons these lights have been phased out by automakers. Halogen bulbs begin to slowly dim after installation, with a working life of only 600-800 hours. This is just a fraction of many LEDs 50,000-hour quoted life expectancy (take the ultra-bright Torchbeam T2 LED 12,000 Lumen Bulbs) for example.
    There’s another reason to buy the bulbs aside from nostalgia or personal preference, though: compatibility. Since halogen bulbs run at different wattages than LEDs, cars manufactured before the LED revolution will require a pair of halogen bulbs. This forces drivers to buy halogen bulbs, and represents a significant part of the halogen bulb market. Other fans of halogens quote personality, quality of light, and the fashion of having a retro-looking bulb.

    Pros
    Halogen bulbs have stayed popular with many consumers
    Soft light is good for winter driving
    Some vehicles require halogen bulbs
    Some car fanatics prefer halogen bulbs for style purposes

    Cons
    Halogen bulbs have been largely phased out in recent years
    600 to 800-hour quoted life expectancy
    Begin dimming immediately after installation

    Guide to Buying the Best Car Fog Lights for 2021
    Fog lights are a product that you either need or don’t—and if you frequently drive in an area with inclement weather, well, you’ll need a pair. They’re not particularly expensive, either, as you can get a solid set of bulbs for around $20.
    But not all cars take fog lights, and not all drivers need them. First of all, you need to have a port for fog bulbs: only cars with the proper fittings can accept fog lights. Secondly, you need inclement weather. If you’re not driving in fog, snowy, or rainy conditions, it’s not worth it to buy an expensive car fog bulb. If you’ve got the required features and you need to navigate difficult driving conditions, then it’s worth it to spend some money on an upgraded pair.
    Should I Purchase Fog Lights as a Factory Option?
    It’s next to impossible to purchase replacement, aftermarket fog lights unless you already have an existing spot to place them. This typically comes as a factory option, although some dedicated vehicle owners set up their own fog lights using a combination of aftermarket parts and some MacGyver-like ingenuity.
    The decision to purchase factory fog lights is similar to the decision to purchase aftermarket ones. Examine your driving habits, the potential benefits, and the potential costs (these will be higher when selecting a factory option than with an aftermarket one). All things equal, they’re worth it, but when fog lights on high-end luxury vehicles can be a $1,000-plus option, the question gets a bit more complicated.
    Mounting Standard
    Different fog lights use different attachment methods to mount bulbs, meaning most cars will have different threads, different sized fittings, and different formats of bulbs. Those that are cross-compatible (H8, H9, and H11) all have different voltages, meaning they’ll all fit the same threading, but might have brightness variations based on the level of current.
    H8 / H9 / H11
    These bulb standards are generally compatible with each other save some exceptions. Check your owner’s manual to see exactly which standards your fog light slots are compatible with. Many manufacturers make lights that are universally compatible with these three standards, although you’ll want to double-check the wattage in most cases. If the wattage isn’t compatible with that of your car, you run the risk of burning out a bulb.
    H10
    H10 bulbs run at similar voltages to H8, H9, and H10 bulbs, although the threading is not cross-compatible. They’re often found in slightly older cars, although some manufacturers continue to use them today. They can sometimes be difficult to find in auto parts stores, meaning they’re a great candidate to be purchased online.
    H16
    H16 has the same standard fittings and threads as H11, although it operates at a different wattage. H16 bulbs produce a lighter blue hue due to the wattage they run at, which is considerably lower than that of traditional halogen bulbs.
    HB
    HB standards, sometimes labeled 9006 and 9006XS bulbs are less bright than competitors and produce a more diffused, softer light. They’re often preferred by those who frequently travel in inclement weather, especially in foggy conditions. While high-clarity, bright-white 6000° kelvin bulbs are great for snow and rain, they illuminate fog and sometimes make visibility even worse.
    Other Standards
    H8, H9, H10, H11, and H16 are easily the most common bulbs in American consumer cars, but occasionally rare, antique, or foreign cars might use another bulb standard. You’ll probably have to purchase these online as they’re not usually kept in stock at auto parts stores.
    Cornering Fog Lights
    The latest advancement in fog light technology is cornering fog lights, lights that rotate in their sockets in advance of cornering to illuminate the road ahead even before you begin turning. It’s really slick to see in action, and while in a perfect world, it marginally improves safety, manufacturers have had trouble with motor actuation and it often ends up being not only costly to install, but costly to fix as well.
    Our advice? Stay far away if you can, and if you happen to have cornering fog lights on your car, make sure they get serviced at the dealer: often warranties can be voided or nullified when car owners decide to take repairs into their own hands.
    Do I Need Car Fog Lights?
    While the average urban driver might not need auxiliary lights, there are plenty of great reasons for a typical driver to buy some fog lights. Drivers who drive in the following conditions should think about a set of fog light bulbs.
    Rural Driving
    The countryside is sometimes downright pitch black and there’s a good reason a lot of rural dwellers need to replace their brights more than city slickers. Fog lights light up the road itself at distances of up to 200 meters, and they’re often positioned in a spot on the car that doesn’t harm the field of view of other drivers.
    Off-Road Driving
    Not only do off-road trails not have the great lighting so many urban drivers are accustomed to having well-lit roads, but their trajectories are typically narrow and curving as well. Off-road trails are obviously dark, less wide and driveable, and can have overhanging debris, rocks, and branches. A nice set of lights can keep off-roaders fully aware of the scenery both on and slightly off the trail.
    Adverse-Weather Driving
    In poor weather, an extra few feet of visibility can be the difference between getting in an accident and getting home safe. Even when not in life-or-death weather, having the best lights available to you can be worth it just for the peace of mind. Get home safe.
    Tuners and Enthusiasts
    Some nice lights go a long way with the automotive enthusiast community. Along with adding an additional spot to include some anodized metal, fog lights can provide some cool photo opportunities. A pro tip? Check out super high temperature (white and blue hues) bulbs for the coolest night time pics.
    Car Fog Light Usage
    As many cars, especially less expensive models, don’t have fog lights, it’s not always well known when and how fog lights should be used. After all, most drivers get away with just having standard lights, daytime running lights, and brights. So when should fog lights be used to maximize utility?
    Fog lights have a different purpose than standard headlights (light up shared roads) and high beams (illuminate low-traffic roads when it’s very dark). With fog lights, there’s a simple rule: when your visibility is reduced to 100 meters due to weather conditions like snow, rain, or fog, or heavy darkness, use your fog lights.
    Watch out for other drivers as fog lights can negatively affect other road users. You can be more liberal with fog light usage in low traffic areas: mountains, backcountry, and rural areas, for example. At the end of the day, though, use your own best judgement. You know what’s safest for you, so use your gut.
    Are HID Lights Still Worth It?
    Inexpensive and bright LEDs have saturated the market in recent years, now available in all bulb standards and representing most of the lights available. They continue to drop in price as manufacturing gets cheaper and distribution becomes ever more common, all that as they continue to get brighter and longer-lasting.
    So if they’re bright, inexpensive, and long-lasting, how can ‘prehistoric’ lights stay competitive? Old bulb standards? Authenticity? Or is it preference that’s playing a role here? The answer: HID bulbs are really only competitive now against LEDs when paired with a specific type of headlight lens called a projector lens to help brighten and intensify the beam. Otherwise, no, they’re not usually worth it.
    Colored Fog Lights
    Different models of car fog lights sometimes use different color bulbs or tints to create colored light, performing better than white light under foggy conditions. The variation in this color is called light temperature and it’s measured in a unit called Kelvin. While standard fluorescent household bulbs are about 2,500 Kelvin, most car fog lights sit in the range between 3,000 and 6,000 Kelvin. This ‘warmer’ light is claimed by some to help pierce further in foggy conditions.
    Frequently Asked Questions on Car Fog Lights
    The important features of car fog lights, as with any aftermarket car part for enthusiasts, are sometimes obscured by marketing jargon and famous brand names. We clear up some of the most common questions below:
    Will Fog Lights fit on My Car?
    Fog lights come in different form factors, from bulbs that fit into your existing headlight sockets to separately attached brackets that require some serious vehicle modification. So how do you tell if a specific fog light will fit on your car? You’ll have to check for yourself. In our descriptions, we’ve described attachment methods, most product descriptions will tell you which standards, housings, or brackets a specific light will use.
    Are Car Fog Lights Legal?
    While completely lighting up the road ahead of you makes for incredible safety advantages, bright lights shining in the path of oncoming traffic can have dangerous safety repercussions in the form of reducing visibility. So while off-road and rural drivers in adverse, wintry conditions can improve safety when driving, there are laws in place to prevent people from using fog lights when they could potentially harm other drivers.
    While laws vary on a state-by-state basis, most states require fog lights to not be above a certain height, lighting up the road and not the fog itself. They also must be turned off in urban areas and when not necessary. For the most part, as long as you use fog lights with common sense and are aware of other road users, fog light use is totally legal.
    How do You Turn Fog Lights On?
    Vehicles with slots or threading for fog lights will have a switch somewhere on the dashboard (it could be an independent switch, it could be on the same stalk as your brights and standard headlights). If you have wired your own fog lights, or if you plan to wire your own fog lights, you’ll probably have to come up with your own solution as auxiliary switches are difficult to adapt for aftermarket purposes.
    What’s the Difference Between Fog Lights and Brights?
    Fog lights and brights are often mistaken for each other when used in popular vocabulary, but they’re actually very different pieces of equipment. Brights come standard on every modern car, an additional setting for vehicles to use in low light conditions. But while they’re effective and increase the range and visibility of your vehicle, they’re a completely different animal than fog lights.
    Fog lights are mounted below both headlights and brights, typically offered as an upgrade option when purchasing a car. They’re not available on all cars, and if they’re not installed as a factory option, it’s typically quite difficult to install them in the first place.
    Wrapping Up
    Fog lights, once you have a pair installed, are very easy to take for granted. But those who go from using their own auxiliary fog light system to a car without one can quickly realize how much they relied on the system in the first place! Fog lights will help you stay safe in dark, snowy, foggy, or rainy conditions, making sure you get home safe and sound every time. More

  • in

    The 10 Single DIN Head Units 2021

    Music can be the difference between an infuriating commute to work and a pleasant experience. The problem is that most older factory car stereos lack the modern amenities that we are all used to. Those older car head units are also built to be cheap, so they leave a lot to be desired in the audio quality department.
    Fortunately, it’s relatively simple to upgrade your factory stereo, and people have been building custom sound systems since the first radio was installed in a vehicle. In this guide, we are going to look at single DIN head units. We’ll cover the basics and then look at 10 of the best head units on the market. After, we’ll take a closer look at head units in general and dispel some myths in an FAQ.

    A Quick Guide to Single DIN Head Units
    A head unit is the “face” of your sound system; it’s the part you interact with and the part that sends the signal to the speakers. A DIN is a specific unit of measurement invented by the Germans to standardize radio equipment in the early 1900s. Many cars, especially those manufactured before the 2000s, only have space for a single DIN head unit.
    If you own an older vehicle and want to upgrade your sound system, a new single DIN head is the perfect first step. The following is a quick guide to get you set up with a new one fast.
    Features
    The biggest way head units differ is the type and number of features they offer. You will generally want to know what features are important to you and choose a head based on that alone. It doesn’t do much good to know that a stereo has a good bass response if it won’t play your cherished collection of Abba CDs.
    Major Features to Look For
    The following features are the ones that most people look for in a stereo. Very few head units will have all of them unless you want to pay a great deal of money, so it’s best to just keep in mind the ones that are most important to you.
    CD/DVD Player: Many people don’t keep music on physical media anymore, which has led to many companies removing the CD drive from their head units. If you have a collection and still want that capability, it will limit your options.
    Touchscreen: Touchscreens are somewhat rare on single DIN head units. Usually, they are limited to either the “floating” style or the “flip-out” style. We’ll talk more about screens below.
    Apple Carplay and Android Auto: These apps, like touchscreens, are rare in the single DIN space. You can expect to pay a premium for them.
    Preamp Outputs: Most amplifiers require low-level, or RCA, outputs for easy connection. Most head units will have at least a subwoofer output for a monoblock, but higher-end head units usually have more.
    Other Inputs: HD/Satellite radio, AUX, USB, Video, and SD card inputs are other common inputs that people may want.
    Features Found on All Modern Head Units
    If you haven’t bought a stereo in a while or are used to older head units, you may not be familiar with some of the new standard features you’ll find on all head units. The following features are ones you will find on almost all head units on the market.
    Bluetooth: It was once a luxury upgrade for a car stereo, but now Bluetooth connectivity is standard.
    In-Car Calling: Like Bluetooth, this once hard to find feature is now standard. We’ll talk more about audio quality and call quality below here, but basically, every modern head will provide adequate call quality when properly installed.
    AM/FM Radio: Even the cheapest heads still have an antenna hookup. Only some have digital receivers, though, so if HD radio is important to you, make sure to look for it.
    USB Chargers: Most head units will have a USB port on the front for charging devices. Some will have the charger on the back with a cable you have to install.
    Make Sure It Fits
    When you install a new head unit, you will probably need an adapter kit for your specific make and model of car. The adapters can be found at any auto parts store or online store. The easiest way is to jump on Amazon and use the garage tool to quickly find a stereo install kit like this one for a 99 Firebird. Most cars, except much older ones, can be adapted for a single DIN stereo.
    Just be aware that some head units extend above or below the installation space. Some cars have very cramped interiors, and a big touchscreen might interfere with things like AC controls or vents.
    As we get into the reviews, keep in mind that these are the best single DIN units. If you have space for a double DIN unit, you should consider looking for double units instead. While you can adapt a double slot into a single, double DIN stereos are often a better value and offer a great variety of features. You can see our recommendations for touchscreen heads here that are mostly double DIN.
    Single DIN Head Units Reviewed
    Everything at a glance:
    You want a high-quality play-anything head unit from a trusted brand: Alpine CDE-172BT
    You want an inexpensive head unit that’s easy to use: Jensen MPR210
    You want a flip-out screen with Android Auto/Apple Car Play: Pioneer AVH-3400NEX
    You just want a cheap and simple head unit: Sound Storm ML41B
    You want something that will look right in your classic car: FyPlay Vintage Classic
    You want a huge screen and great audio: Sony XAV-AX800
    You want an inexpensive flip-out screen: Regetek 7”
    You just want to stream high bitrate music from your phone: Pioneer MVH-S522BS
    You want a screen but are pressed for space: Power Acoustik PD-710B
    You want a fun, inexpensive, do-everything knock-off gadget: Camecho 4.1” TFT

    Top 10 Single DIN Head Units 2021
    1. Best Overall: Alpine CDE-172BT

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: Alpine is an industry leader in car audio, and this head unit is a great example of why. It does everything you could want, sounds amazing, and will fit in nearly any vehicle on earth.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Features
    6ch Low-Level Out
    CD Player
    Bluetooth
    HD Radio
    USB
    AUX
    What Sets It Apart?
    There are a few things that make the Alpine a great choice. It’s one of the few modern head units that are both high-quality and come equipped with a CD drive, for starters. It also has six channels of RCA output, so you can use it as the face of a much larger audio system. The most important feature, though, may simply be the word “Alpine” on the case.
    The Japanese audio companies tend to be the largest players in the car audio world. Alpine, Pioneer, and JVC are well known around the world for making high-quality components. Their head units are the best at replicating the true audio recording, they have the best bass response, and they will probably outlast your car.
    This Alpine tops the list simply because it’s one of the most versatile single DIN head units you can get, in addition to being of excellent quality.
    Our Take
    The only reason to look elsewhere for a head unit is because you want something very specific. If you are on a budget, consider this Jensen instead. If you don’t need a CD player but still want excellent sound quality, this Pioneer will suit you just fine, or get this Pioneer if you really want a touchscreen as well.
    For most people, though, this Alpine is the perfect upgrade. It can play music from almost any source, the quality is amazing, and people will nod with understanding and congratulate you if you say you installed an Alpine head.

    Pros
    Alpine is a trusted industry leader
    Very good audio quality
    6 RCA outputs

    Cons
    CD players aren’t used much anymore
    No touchscreen

    2. Best Value: Jensen MPR210

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: It’s easy to use, inexpensive, and works great. Enough said.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Features
    Bluetooth
    USB
    AUX
    Subwoofer Out
    What Sets It Apart?
    The value you get from the Jensen MPR210 is unparalleled. It’s very inexpensive, but it has a better build quality and usability than something truly cheap like the Sound Storm Labs head unit.
    That makes the Jensen the perfect first step for someone that is just starting their car audio journey. It has an RCA output for a subwoofer, meaning you can start the upgrade process by buying a monoblock. It also has Bluetooth, so you can stream audio from your phone. It’s a basic, inexpensive upgrade for most older factory sound systems. Often, that’s all anyone really needs.
    Our Take
    One of the great things about our modern era is that electronics are cheap, varied, and compact. You can pretty much get a gadget to do any task on any budget and know that, with a few exceptions, it’ll work fine.
    That does sometimes lead to a problem for reviewers like us since there are many very similar units that are all around the same price and the same functionality. We mention two: the Sound Storm Labs and the FyPlay units. There’s also the wildly popular Boss head unit here. We don’t review it, but Boss is very similar to Jensen as a company. They both are industry leaders in the budget audio world.
    The Jensen MPR210 is just a bit better than its competitors in the single DIN space. It doesn’t have the audio quality that a Pioneer or Alpine head will have, but it will accurately play music streamed from your phone. It only has basic inputs and outputs, but it isn’t missing anything unlike some of the others at this price. The build quality isn’t amazing, but it doesn’t feel as cheap and ill-fitting as the Sound Storm. In short, it does what it advertises, and sometimes that’s more than you can ask for.

    Pros
    Inexpensive
    Decent build quality for the price
    Easy to use

    Cons
    Sound quality could be better
    Doesn’t have any advanced features

    3. Best Premium: Pioneer AVH-3400NEX

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: Pioneer makes great quality audio equipment, and this flip-out is no exception. If you want it all, but only have space for a single din receiver, the AV-3400NEX is what you buy.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Features
    6ch Low-Level Out
    CD/DVD Player
    Bluetooth
    HD Radio
    USB
    AUX
    7” Touchscreen
    Video In and Out
    Apple Carplay
    Android Auto
    What Sets It Apart?
    This Pioneer, along with the Sony we recommend here, is on a different level than the rest of the head units on our list. They both have features like Apple Carplay and Android Auto. They also both have great touchscreens, although the Sony screen is a bit larger.
    What pushes the Pioneer into the premium slot is that the screen hides away when it’s not in use. We actually write at length about flip out heads here. The gist of it is that having a retractable screen offers a lot of the benefits that a larger head unit can offer and a lot of the benefits that a smaller single DIN head unit offers.
    Our Take
    The Pioneer AVH-3400NEX does everything you could want. It plays DVDs, it can send signals to an entire bank of amplifiers, and it has Pioneer’s legendary audio controls. The screen isn’t as large as the Sony we recommend, but it has a higher pixel count per inch and is easier to see in bright light. In short, if you don’t have room for a modern double DIN head unit but want one, you can get it all with this Pioneer.
    You will need to pay for it, though. It’s an expensive unit, and it has a lot of features that you may not use. It has a CD/DVD player, for instance. It also has video outputs, just in case you want to wire in extra screens. There is just a lot of complication that the average person won’t use, and it can make the Regetek flip out a more appealing option.
    This is one of the only units where you can use Apple Carplay and Android Auto, though, so if that’s really important to you, this is a great deal.

    Pros
    Apple Carplay and Android Auto
    Very high-quality
    Has a lot of inputs and outputs

    Cons
    Expensive
    Somewhat complicated to utilize

    4. Best Budget: Sound Storm ML41B

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: You don’t want to spend a lot on a commuter or old beater car. You do want to be able to listen to Spotify from your phone. This Sound Storm head unit is the solution.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Features
    Bluetooth
    USB
    AUX
    Subwoofer Out
    Remote Control
    What Sets It Apart?
    There is no sense in trying to point out anything other than the fact that this thing is very inexpensive. It plays music over Bluetooth and can play your favorite radio stations. It really doesn’t do anything else that’s worth noting; it is simply the most affordable way to get those features.
    That makes it the perfect choice for anyone that just wants to add a way to play music from their phone to their beater or older daily driver.
    Our Take
    The Sound Storm Labs ML41B is very easy to criticize. It’s not high-quality. The sound quality is ok at best, and chances are good that you will get frustrated with the controls. That being said, it’s so cheap that it seems almost unfair to hold it to the same standards that we would hold an Alpine head unit to. If you want something that’s high-quality and will improve your music listening experience, then get the Alpine.
    There are a lot of reasons to buy a cheap head unit, though. First of all, it is an upgrade if you don’t have an AUX port or Bluetooth, or a subwoofer output. Modern music collections are online or stored in media players, not on physical media. In order to listen to modern music collections, you need something like Bluetooth connectivity.
    Second, sometimes things break. If you have an old car and the factory head breaks, you probably don’t want to spend a ton of money on a new factory head. Something like this SSL head is absolutely fine.

    Pros
    Very inexpensive
    Has Bluetooth and AUX inputs
    Has a subwoofer output

    Cons
    Audio quality isn’t great
    Build quality isn’t great either

    5. Best Looking: FyPlay Vintage Classic

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: If you crave old school style as much as we do, it’s hard not to love this simple head unit.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Features
    Bluetooth
    USB
    AUX
    SD Card
    Remote Control
    Subwoofer Out
    What Sets It Apart?
    You are free to call us vain, but what really sets this head unit apart is that it’s a modern Bluetooth receiver that looks like it belongs in a car straight from the 70s. It has this chrome grill faceplate and two knobs, and it’s very reminiscent of the early AM/FM units that had the tune and volume dials separated.
    The only thing that gives it away is the LEDs that light up the buttons and screen. If you are building a restomod on a budget and want to stream music from your phone as you drive, it’s a really great addition to your interior.
    Our Take
    If you take away the style, you are left with a simple head unit that’s on par with the Jensen or the Sound Storm units we recommend. It isn’t feature packed, and if you get up close to it, you can tell that there were corners cut to save on manufacturing cost. It does have some features that similarly inexpensive units don’t have, though, like a relatively high RMS rating.
    That does mean it occupies a bit of an unusual space, though. Most restomods are very high-dollar builds simply because it costs a lot just to buy and own a classic car. So people who already have a lot of money into a custom interior will probably want something that is higher quality than this FyPlay unit, and the average budget-minded consumer probably doesn’t care much about the looks.
    Still, there are people who build or upkeep older cars and like to keep things inexpensive and simple. People with old VWs come to mind instantly; this unit is perfect for dropping into a ‘68 Beetle.

    Pros
    Inexpensive
    Looks very classic
    Relatively high wattage rating

    Cons
    Made of cheap materials
    May look out of place on most modern vehicles

    6. Best Touchscreen: Sony XAV-AX800

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: There’s a lot to love about this head, including Android Auto, Apple Carplay, and the largest screen on our list.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Features
    6ch Low-Level Out
    Bluetooth
    HD Radio
    USB
    AUX
    9” Touchscreen
    Video In and Out
    Apple Carplay
    Android Auto
    What Sets It Apart?
    Big screens are usually limited to the land of the double DIN stereos. Sony, though, decided to bring the giant floating screen to the single DIN community. At 9 inches, the screen on this Sony is the largest on our list. In fact, it’s bigger than a lot of modern infotainment systems, so you can comfortably watch in-flight movies streamed from your phone. Please do so when safe and not while driving down the highway, though.
    The other features you aren’t likely to find with single DIN stereos are Apple Carplay and Android Auto. Sony brings those to single DIN cars as well. All of that combined makes this the perfect way to modernize an older vehicle, as long as it has enough room. That big screen does take up a lot of space.
    Our Take
    Sony is one of the most well-known electronics companies on earth, so it’s really no surprise that they’d also be dabbling in the car audio world. The XAV-AX800 demonstrates what a tech giant like Sony can do, similar to how the Pioneer AVH-3400NEX demonstrates what a giant like Pioneer can do. Both offer a lot of features that are nearly unheard of in the single DIN scene.
    The big difference is that the Pioneer has to unfold itself before you can use it. In contrast, the Sony is just there waiting to be used even before you turn the car on. They both have amazing audio quality and can both power any combination of amps or speakers you could want. You just have to decide if you like the fold-out screen more or if you would rather have more surface area displaying your GPS route.
    Unfortunately, the Pioneer and the Sony share something else: their high price. That’s the biggest disadvantage of needing single DIN-sized equipment. You can find units, like this Sony, that can do everything. They just cost a lot more than their double DIN counterparts.

    Pros
    Large touchscreen
    Apple Carplay and Android Auto
    Excellent quality

    Cons
    Expensive
    Takes up a lot of space

    7. Best Inexpensive Flip-Out: Regetek 7 Inch

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: This is simply the best flip-out you can get for the price. If you really want a big screen and are on a tight budget, it’s perfect.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Features
    Bluetooth
    USB
    AUX
    SD Card
    7” Touchscreen
    Subwoofer Out
    Remote Control
    Video In and Out
    What Sets It Apart?
    It has a touchscreen, and the touchscreen retracts so that it keeps your dash clutter-free. That’s not really what sets it apart, though; after all, the Pioneer here also has a flip-out screen. This Regetek unit, though, is a really incredible value. It’s very inexpensive when compared to other single DINs that have a screen.
    Regetek also has avoided the biggest issue that plagues cheap head units. Most cheap gadgets are more difficult to use than their name-brand competitors. They have quicks like hard to read menus or difficult to decipher manuals; take a look at the Camecho on our list if you want to see what that’s like. The Regetek head unit here manages to be easy to use, and even though it’s not perfect, it’s a lot better quality than many of the brandless knock-offs that are available.
    Our Take
    We said above that it avoids one of the most significant issues with cheap gadgets because it’s easy to use and understand. Unfortunately, you will definitely know it’s cheap when you use it. The plastic is a little flimsy, the screen resolution is low, and there is a learning curve to making calls. Pressing the button to start a call is easy enough, but finding out what volume you need to speak at and where to set the audio levels to hear the other end can be a bit of a challenge.
    The rest of the stereo is on par with other inexpensive heads like the Jenson MPR210. Don’t expect it to blow the doors off or play the highest quality audio files, but if you are just streaming music over Bluetooth, you will be happy with it.
    You can get better audio quality for about the same price, but that’s not why you would spend the money on the Regetek. You would buy this because it’s impossible to get a better deal if you want a functional touchscreen in your car that’s bigger than your cell phone.

    Pros
    Flip-out screen
    Easy to use
    Inexpensive

    Cons
    Screen resolution isn’t great
    Feels cheap to the touch

    8. Best Audio-Quality: Pioneer MVH-S522BS

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: Pioneer’s simple and elegant single din receiver here is the perfect head unit for people who just want to stream high-quality music and don’t need a bunch of flashy features.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Features
    Bluetooth
    USB
    AUX
    HD Radio
    6CH Low-Level Out
    What Sets It Apart?
    Pioneer is well known for being able to produce clear and accurate sound. If that’s all you want, then this thing is perfect because it doesn’t really do anything else. There’s no screen, there’s no CD player, there is no special remote control to let it light up like a rave. It plays music from Bluetooth, USB, and AUX, the end.
    We are by no means saying that’s a bad thing. Simple can be really desirable, especially if you are trading complexity for quality and reliability. Most people won’t watch movies in their car on a tiny screen when they have their cellphones with them, and most people nowadays don’t use CDs for music. People who love audio, though, probably do have an extensive collection of high-quality sound files they want to listen to, and this Pioneer is perfect for that.
    Our Take
    Everything about this Pioneer is built for sound quality. It has a full complement of preamp outputs, making it easy to wire up a series of amps. It’s equipped with satellite radio and FLAC, and it has its own equalizer. If you are the type of person that has a collection of 320k MP3s because you can’t stand low-quality audio streaming, then this is for you.
    The screen and controls honestly aren’t that great. We wish it had a few more dedicated buttons so that the menus were easier to navigate. As it is, you will do a lot of turning the volume dial to scroll through the settings. It’s not a huge issue; it’s just hard to find other things to criticize.
    Chances are you are trying to decide between this Pioneer and the Alpine we recommend. They both are amp-ready, about the same price, and are made from high-quality components. We think the Pioneer looks better, but it doesn’t have as many features. You can’t go wrong with either.

    Pros
    Elegant design
    High-quality
    Has 6CH RCA

    Cons
    Interface is a little hard to navigate
    Limited input options

    9. Best Flip-Out Alternative: Power Acoustik PD-710B

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: Unlike a lot of flip-out screens or stand-off screens that extend up, the Power Acoustic here has a screen that extends down. For some cars, it’s the perfect solution to fitment issues.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Features
    Bluetooth
    CD/DVD Player
    USB
    AUX
    SD Card
    7” Touchscreen
    Subwoofer Out
    Video In and Out
    What Sets It Apart?
    No two manufacturers seem to want to put the radio in the same spot, and that can lead to a lot of fitment issues. Most flip-out screens, like the Regetek we recommend, extend up from the head. If your car has controls above the stereo slot or has a recessed stereo, then that flip-up screen won’t work for you.
    That’s where this Power Acoustik unit comes in to save the day. The screen extends down instead. It’s not the best screen out there. In fact, other than the very cheap Camecho, all the screens on our list overshadow it. But if you really want a larger touchscreen, but don’t have room for a flip-out or floating screen, it’s a really great option.
    Our Take
    The Power Acoustik PD-710B is a really niche device, and it costs more as a result. A flip-out screen is the space-saving choice for most people. Anyone that doesn’t need to save space will probably gravitate towards a larger floating screen or will likely have room for a double DIN unit. Since the quality of the Power Acoustik isn’t particularly high, that means the unusual format is the only big selling point.
    There are other advantages to the format beyond just fitment, though, and they are worth considering. Unlike a flip-out screen, there are no mechanisms that can break and leave you without an interface. It’s also faster than a flip-out; when you start the car, the system is instantly up and running without having to wait for the screen to extend.
    In short, it’s a great option if you want a screen but don’t want a flip-out. Just don’t expect anything to be particularly amazing.

    Pros
    Screen extends down instead of flipping up
    More durable than a flip-out
    Interface loads quickly

    Cons
    Not as high-quality as similarly priced units
    Screen isn’t particularly good

    10. Cheap and Compact Touchscreen: Camecho 4.1” TFT

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: You’ll need a good helping of patience to get it to do what you want, but the amount of stuff that this cheap gadget can do is incredible.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Features
    Bluetooth
    USB
    AUX
    SD Card
    1” Touchscreen
    Video In and Out
    Subwoofer Out
    Remote Control
    Included Backup Camera
    What Sets It Apart?
    It’s a tiny screen that can display a backup camera and fits completely within a single DIN space. That’s really unique; almost all single DIN units with a screen either have a big screen tacked onto the face or a screen that flips out of the device. It means that even the incredibly crowded dashboard of an older JDM car can have a modern touchscreen.
    It also does a lot of neat things, especially for the price. It doesn’t cost much more than something like the Jensen MPR, but it supports FLAC and comes with a backup camera. It’s not an amazing backup camera or anything, but it does include one in the box.
    Our Take
    Unfortunately, as cool as it is, there are some serious issues with the Comecho here. It starts with their documentation. You will need to read the included documentation because the interface is confusing and difficult to navigate. All we can say is, “good luck.” With gems like “U dick Plug and see smooth and clear” you may be better off just mashing the buttons until you get the desired result.
    At the end of the day, this head unit is just a tech toy. It’s something for people who like taking risks and can’t pass up knowing whether or not that knock-off watch is as good as the real thing. There’s always a chance that you get a bricked unit from the factory with these kinds of products or that you won’t be able to decipher the menus. It’s never going to be as high-quality as a cheap unit from a more reputable brand.
    However, if you are willing to take the risk or love these kinds of cheap, too good to be true gadgets, you’ll have a lot of fun with the Camecho.

    Pros
    Has a tiny touchscreen
    Comes with a backup camera
    Very inexpensive for what it does

    Cons
    The documentation will drive you mad
    The quality is suspect at best
    It’s not easy to use

    A Closer Look at Head Units
    In this section, we will take a better look at some of the more complicated parts of car head units. To start, there are a lot of misconceptions surrounding audio quality that we want to clear up.
    The Truth About Audio Quality
    When people talk about audio quality, they are usually referring to the device’s ability to accurately play the recording. If you hear a lot of distortion or are missing bass depth, then the quality is considered poor. The problem is that there are a lot of variables, and the head unit is actually a fairly small part of the equation. There are a few main things to keep in mind if you are looking for the best audio quality possible.
    The Head Unit is Only Part of the System
    Even if the head is capable of producing a perfect audio signal, you won’t get a perfect sound. That’s because everything from the speaker size and type to the wire size directly influences audio quality.
    One of the absolute best ways to improve your listening experience is to add a subwoofer. Most of the time, bass is what a factory system lacks, and it’s the reason almost all aftermarket head units have at least a single low-level output. You can check our list of inexpensive subwoofer options here.
    The Source is Important
    If you just stream music from the internet over Spotify, chances are good that you won’t notice an improvement in quality between different aftermarket heads. That’s because the quality is actually coded into the digital files. To make music streamable, the quality is cut down to save on file size. That’s one area where CDs offer an advantage; the .wav format is uncompressed and therefore higher quality than an mp3.
    You can stream at a higher bitrate if your internet connection is good, but if you really need the best audio quality available, it’s better to have a library of FLAC or 320k MP3s saved to your device. You can read more about source files here; it’s a very deep rabbit hole of information.
    Power
    In the audio world, there are two main power ratings. Maximum wattage, which is the maximum amount of power a system can produce, and RMS wattage. RMS wattage is a much more useful rating because it represents how much power you can reasonably expect day to day. There are no components that can run at max power for more than a few moments, so even though manufacturers will print it on the box because it’s a big number, it’s actually not a good metric.
    Most factory head units are around 20w RMS, while most aftermarket head units are 40-60w RMS. That increase alone will give you a huge boost in tone. Basically, you will get distortion in the form of clipping when you approach the upper volume range. At 20w, that upper range is closer to normal listening volume than it would be on a more powerful system.
    Build Quality Directly Translates to Audio Quality
    The final thing to really understand when talking about audio quality is that, to an extent, you do get what you pay for. Cheaper components have room to move around or may overheat, and that leads to distortion. It’s why we recommend sticking to trusted brands like Alpine or Pioneer. They cost more, but the build quality is higher. Therefore the audio quality is also higher.
    The thing you have to keep in mind, though, is that if you don’t have good wiring, power, or sources, then the audio quality of the head really doesn’t matter. That’s what makes inexpensive head units like the Jensen such a good value. The average person will not notice the difference between a cheap head and an expensive head if the only thing they replace is the head.
    A Primer on Touchscreens
    Touchscreens are just a part of modern life. They can be found on everything from cellphones to refrigerators, so naturally, they are very commonly found in cars. Modern cars often have them pre-installed in the form of an infotainment center, and they make a great upgrade to an older dashboard. There are just a few things to keep in mind if you are looking to make that upgrade.
    Resolution
    We are spoiled by modern cell phones that have absurdly high-definition screens, so it seems shocking that a high definition stereo screen might only have a resolution of 800×480. That’s all you really need for a crisp, accurate image, though, because of the pixel density. In fact, the pixel density on something like the Pioneer flip-out here is actually higher than a 31” 1080p TV.
    Type
    There are two main types of touchscreens on the market. Capacitive touchscreens work by sensing your finger. They are found on more expensive gadgets because they cost more to produce, but they are faster and cleaner than resistive touchscreens. Resistive touchscreens use pressure to register touch, and they are much slower and less accurate than capacitive.
    Android Auto and Apple Carplay
    These two apps are both very common in modern cars and require a touchscreen for use. Unfortunately, if you value the convenience of these apps, you will be paying more. This is especially true in the single DIN world.
    FAQ

    What’s the Best Single DIN Head Unit?
    That depends on what you want from your head unit. We think the best general-purpose single DIN head unit is the Alpine CDE-172BT, but if you want a touchscreen, the Pioneer AVH-3400NEX is a better fit. If you love retro style and don’t need a CD player, check out the FyPlay Vintage Classic. The truth is you can’t really go wrong with anything we review.
    Which Is Better, Single DIN or Double DIN?
    It depends on how you define better. There are a lot more options, especially if you want a touchscreen, that are double DIN sized. However, many cars do not have space for a double DIN unit. It doesn’t matter if a double DIN is “better” if it won’t fit in your car.
    Does a Head Unit Affect Sound Quality?
    Yes, but they are not the most important thing that shapes the quality of sound. Your input source, amplification power, and speakers are just as or more important. In fact, installing a subwoofer like one of these we recommend would do far more to improve your audio quality than buying a new head unit.
    Can I Put a Single DIN in a Double DIN Slot?
    Some stereo install kits can convert a double DIN space into a single DIN space. There are also pockets like this one that take up a single DIN space and can be used to convert a double space into a single. However, there are a lot more options for double DIN sized head units, so the benefit of converting a double to a single is marginal.
    Wrapping it Up
    Whether you choose to embrace the retro style or go all-in on a beautiful screen, you will be happy ditching your factory sound system and installing a modern head unit. They have gotten so cheap and have tons of features compared to the head units even ten years ago. Just grab one from our guide that meets your feature wishlist and rock out. More

  • in

    The 9 Best Windshield Treatments 2021

    When bad weather hits, slick conditions make driving dangerous enough as it is. However, when you add decreased visibility from rain and snow to the mix, you end up with a recipe for disaster.
    While wipers do a good job of keeping your windshield clear, they aren’t perfect. This is where a good windshield treatment can come in handy.

    Why Treat Your Windshield?
    Perhaps the most important consideration you should make regarding windshield treatments is determining why you should treat your windshield. There are actually a few good reasons for using windshield treatments.
    To Provide Better Visibility
    In slick conditions, it’s imperative that you’re able to see. Whether you’re driving in the rain or snow, a good windshield treatment will help you see better by allowing water to bead up and fly off the windshield, rather than sitting on the windshield obstructing your view.
    Can Prevent Your Windshield From Damage
    Don’t expect any miracles here, but having a treated windshield can increase its lifespan by preventing damage to it. Over time, your windshield will suffer from pitting, a natural form of wear resulting from dirt, sand and other small particles scratching the glass.
    Pitting, in turn, can cause water to pool up in your windshield during rainy and snowy conditions. When pitting spots get bad enough, they can also cause blinding glares from sunlight and headlights at night.
    Because windshield treatments provide a barrier between the particles and your windshield, it can slow down or prevent this wear from occurring.
    Prolong the Life of Your Windshield Wipers
    When you use your windshield wipers less, they won’t wear out as quickly. By using a windshield treatment on your car, you won’t need to use the wipers as often, thereby extending the life of your wipers.
    Things to Consider in Windshield Treatments
    Once you’ve decided that a windshield treatment is the right choice for your car, there are some things you should consider before purchasing one.
    Type of Windshield Treatments
    There are different types of windshield treatments, so you should consider what type would work best for your situation.
    Silicone-Based
    Silicone-based windshield treatments are the cheapest and most common option available. You can find also them in different forms, from traditional full treatments to washer fluid additives for treatment upkeep.
    These treatments don’t bind with the glass, making them the simplest to apply and remove. But because they merely sit on top of your windshield to repel water, they won’t last as long as other types of treatments. This means you’ll have to reapply treatments more often.
    Overall, silicone-based treatments are best for beginners and thrifty consumers.
    Fluorinated Compound-Based
    Some windshield treatments – like Aquapel – are made of fluorinated compounds called fluoroalkylsilanes, which actually bind to the silica in your windshield.
    These treatments are typically regarded as mid-tier options in almost every aspect. They’re more expensive and harder to put on than silicone treatments, but last longer. Conversely, they won’t last as long as nanotechnology-based treatments, but are less costly and are a bit easier to apply.
    You should also keep in mind, these types of treatments are much harder to take off than silicone treatments. If you’re worried about messing up the application, it’s a much safer bet to use a silicone-based treatment.
    Nanotechnology-Based
    Nanotechnology-based windshield treatments, also known as ceramic coatings, also bind to the windshield to provide a durable and long-lasting coating for up to a few years. Hendlex’s Nano Glass Pro is a good example of an effective nano-coating treatment.
    In addition to the increased longevity of these treatments, they can also provide additional benefits, such as offering scratch and abrasion resistance. Of course, these come at a much higher cost than other types of treatments.
    They’re also more advanced, and require more work and care to properly apply. Like fluorinated compound treatments, they are very hard to remove, meaning you should only use one of these treatments if you know what you’re doing.
    Longevity of the Treatment
    While the type of treatment you choose will play a large part in how long it lasts, you also have to remember that not all treatments are made equally. You should keep in mind how long a treatment lasts.
    Amount of Treatment
    In addition to the longevity of the treatment, you’ll want to pay attention to the amount of treatment you’re buying. Just remember that sometimes less is more. That’s certainly the case with Hendlex’s Nano Glass Pro, where a small 50ml bottle can provide multiple long-lasting treatments.
    Now that you know what to look for, we’re going to take you through the best windshield treatments around.

    Top 9 Best Windshield Treatments 2021
    1. Best Overall Windshield Treatment: Rain-X 800002243 Glass Treatment

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: It’s user-friendly, cost-efficient, and works great at keeping your windshield clean and clear.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Silicone-based
    Longevity: 30-45 days
    Amount: 7 oz
    Rain-X is a trusted name in the automotive industry, providing consumer-friendly glass treatments at a modest price. Rain-X’s 800002243 Glass Treatment is no exception, offering an effective and cost-efficient means of protecting your windshield.
    It offers an easy way to keep your windshield protected, making it great for anyone to use. Simply apply some to a microfiber cloth or paper towel and wipe it on. If you notice a haze on your windshield after applying this stuff, don’t worry! You can buff it away with a clean cloth.
    One of the best things about this stuff is that it’s versatile. It’s great for all of your windows, as well as your headlights and mirrors, so you can really increase your visibility on the road. It also works well for keeping your home’s windows and glass shower doors clear and streak-free.
    The only real drawback we can see with this windshield treatment is that it doesn’t last longer. Since it’s a silicone-based treatment, you’ll need to reapply it more often than other types of windshield treatments. Still, given its low cost and overall effectiveness, it’s a great choice if you’re looking for a great, easy-to-use windshield treatment.

    Pros
    Easy to use
    Cost-efficient
    Versatile

    Cons
    Doesn’t work as long as other types of treatments

    2. Best Premium Windshield Treatment: Rain-X Glass Treatment & Anti-Fog Combo

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: An effective combo pack that allows you to keep your windshield clear, inside and out.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Silicone-based
    Longevity: 30-45 days
    Amount: 2 7-oz bottles
    The Rain-X Glass Treatment and Anti-Fog Combo works wonders on your windshield, inside and out. Since they work in all weather, they’re a great choice if you live in climates where rain and foggy windows are common.
    The glass treatment is for the exterior of your windshield and windows. This will keep your windows clear of rain and frost, and should last 2 to 4 months per application, depending on the weather. On the other hand, the anti-fog is for the interior of your windshield, and should last for 2 months.
    Not only do they keep your windshield clean and clear, but they can also work with other things like mirrors and home windows. They’re both also easy to use. Just be sure to exercise caution when putting them on, or you could make it harder to see.
    The anti-fog seems to be the most problematic of the two. If improperly applied, it could cause streaking on your windshield and windows that could be difficult to get rid of. You’ll also want to make sure not to tip the bottles over, as they don’t seem to seal properly, even when closed tight.
    Nonetheless, if you’re looking for a great way to keep your windshield and windows clear inside and out, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better combo.

    Pros
    Keeps your windows clear inside and out
    Also works great for windows and mirrors
    Easy to use

    Cons
    The anti-fog may cause streaks
    Caps don’t seal properly

    3. Best Budget Windshield Treatment: Rain-X 5071268 Glass Cleaner + Rain Repellent

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: Coming at a low cost, it cleans and treats your windshield at the same time, saving you time and money.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Silicone-based
    Longevity: 30-45 days
    Amount: 23 oz
    Another great product from Rain-X, the 5071268 Glass Cleaner + Rain Repellent is a powerful 2-in-1 that will clean and treat your windshield at the same time. This makes it great if you want to quickly treat your windshield without hassle.
    In addition to its cleaning and treating properties, it’s the most economical option we’ve found. Coming in a relatively large 23-ounce bottle, each treatment only requires a few sprays. That means this stuff could easily last years, depending on how often you use it.
    Like other Rain-X products, it’s also versatile. On top of being a great windshield treatment, you can also use it on your home’s windows and glass shower doors.
    One thing that’s different about this stuff compared to normal glass cleaners is that you’ll want to dry it after applying it. If you don’t, then you could run into issues with spots or hazing on the glass that can make it hard to see. However, if you use it properly, then this stuff will make your windshield shine and keep them clean through rain, sleet, or snow.
    Given its low cost and effectiveness, it’s a great choice for anyone looking to treat their windshield.

    Pros
    Inexpensive
    Cleans and treats your windshield
    Versatile

    Cons
    Can cause visibility issues if used improperly

    4. Best Windshield Treatment Washer Fluid Additive: Rain-X White RX11806D Washer Fluid Additive

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: This stuff makes treating your windshield easy, and works great as a supplemental treatment.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Silicone-based
    Longevity: 30-45 days
    Amount: 16.9 oz
    Most windshield treatments are products you apply to your car by hand and require a clean windshield. However, if you want the benefits of a treated windshield without the hassle, then you might consider the Rain-X RX11806D White Washer Fluid Additive.
    This stuff mixes with your regular windshield wiper fluid to deliver a quick windshield treatment every time you use your car’s washer nozzles. And speaking of the nozzles, you shouldn’t have to worry about this stuff clogging your nozzles.
    Since this additive is meant to be mixed in with your regular washer fluid, you’ll have to mix it properly for it to work correctly. Mixing it isn’t hard, but if you don’t want to risk mixing it improperly, you might want to opt for a pre-mixed concoction.
    This product works well as a stand-alone product, but it’s not as effective as manual treatments like the Rain-X 800002243 Glass Treatment. However, manual treatments don’t offer the same convenience as this washer fluid additive. This stuff also plays nicely with manual treatments, making it a great supplemental purchase.
    As with other Rain-X windshield treatments, it’s economical. That means you won’t have to worry about breaking the bank buying this stuff, and if you don’t like it, you’re not out a lot of money.

    Pros
    Quicker and easier to use than other windshield treatments.
    Works great as a stand-alone or supplemental purchase
    Inexpensive

    Cons
    Requires you to mix it
    Doesn’t work as effectively as manual treatments

    5. Best Streak-Free Windshield Treatment: Invisible Glass 92184 22-Ounce Premium Glass Cleaner with Rain Repellent

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: It cleans and treats your windshield, and it won’t leave streaks behind.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: N/A
    Longevity: 30-45 days
    Amount: 22 oz
    Stoner’s Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner with Rain Repellent is a great alternative to Rain-X products. This 2-in-1 glass cleaner and rain repellent works to clean and coat your windshield with an effective water repellent to keep your windshield clear of rain and frost.
    Made in the USA, the Stoner offers a money-back guarantee to show that the company stands behind its product. And just like Rain-X, this product is great for not only your car, but around your home as well.
    One of the main draws to this stuff is its streak-free formula. Commonly known as being better than Windex for providing a streak-free clean, Invisible Glass does wonders at leaving a clean windshield behind. Combined with its ability to repel mud and water after the clean, this is a superior product.
    As far as performance compared to Rain-X products, it’s pretty similar. They both last roughly 30-45 days per application, and do a great job at keeping your windshield clear. The only real knock against this stuff is that it’s more expensive than Rain-X’s 2-in-1 spray. However, given the money-back guarantee and it’s stellar streak-free clean, it’s worth spending a few extra bucks.

    Pros
    Made in the USA
    Money-back guarantee
    Streak-free cleaning formula

    Cons
    More expensive than similar products

    6. Best Haze-Free Windshield Treatment: Rust-Oleum 287337 NeverWet Rain Repellent

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: It’s a great alternative to silicone-based treatments and won’t cause hazing that’s common with cheaper treatments.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Other
    Longevity: 30-45 days
    Amount: 11 oz
    The biggest problem with most windshield treatments is the haze they can create from improper application. Rust-Oleum’s NeverWet Rain Repellent is a good alternative if you don’t want to risk hazing your windshield.
    Like other windshield treatments we’ve covered, this stuff works great for both your car and home. It also has the same longevity and works as effectively as silicone-based treatments like Rain-X. However, it comes at a cost other treatments don’t have.
    Unlike silicone-based treatments, this stuff has a very strong chemical smell, meaning you’ll want ventilation when using it indoors. It’s also rather expensive, costing more per fluid ounce than other treatments like the Rain-X Glass Treatment.
    If you don’t mind paying a premium for an effective stress-free windshield treatment, then you can’t go wrong with the NeverWet Rain Repellent.

    Pros
    Won’t haze
    Works as well as silicone-based treatments
    Stress-free application

    Cons
    Strong smell
    Expensive

    7. Best Fluorinated Windshield Treatments: Aquapel Glass Treatment

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: A single Aquapel treatment works for longer than cheaper types of treatments and comes in an easy-to-use applicator.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Fluorinated compound-based
    Longevity: 6 months
    Amount: 6 single-use applicators
    If you’re looking for something that will last longer than silicone-based treatments, you might want to consider Aquapel’s Glass Treatment. This pack of 6 single-use applicators contains a small amount of treatment liquid meant to cover your entire windshield.
    What’s nice about this stuff is that it’s easy to gauge how much you’ll need. Also, because it’s a fluorinated compound-based treatment, it will easily outlast silicone-based treatments like the Rain-X.
    However, you will want to take care when using this treatment. The applicators have warnings and emergency phone numbers on them because this stuff is highly dangerous. Not only should you wear gloves and have proper ventilation, but you should also avoid getting it on your car’s body, as it can damage paint. It’s also significantly more expensive than silicone-based treatments.
    Given its long-term effectiveness, it’s a good intermediate option that lasts longer than entry-level silicone-based treatments without the difficulty and lofty costs of nanotechnology-based windshield treatments.

    Pros
    Single-use applicators make it easy to dose treatments
    Lasts longer than silicone-based treatments
    Not as difficult as nanotechnology-based treatments

    Cons
    Dangerous
    Can damage your paint
    Expensive

    8. Best Windshield Treatment Wipes: Rain-X 630021 Original Glass Treatment Wipes

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: These are great for quick treatments as a supplement between full treatments, and work great if you frequently travel.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Silicone-based
    Longevity: 30-45 days
    Amount: 10 wipes
    If you want to treat your windshield without the hassle of dosing the treatment, then you might want to consider the Rain-X Original Glass Treatment Wipes. They make it even easier to treat your windshield than the traditional Rain-X solution, saving you a little time and hassle.
    Of course, they don’t exactly work as well as a full-on treatment. They’re also not as cost-effective as other Rain-X treatments. Rather, these are great to have for when you’re in a pinch and need to quickly apply a treatment, such as if you’re traveling or renting a car. They also work great as a supplemental purchase with other Rain-X products, such as the Rain-X White Washer Fluid Additive.
    If you want something to touch up your regular treatments or just need a quick treatment, these wipes can certainly come in handy.

    Pros
    Quick and easy to use
    Good for travel and other non-regular use
    Works well as a supplemental purchase

    Cons
    Doesn’t work as well as a regular treatment
    Not as cost-effective as other Rain-X products

    9. Best Nano Windshield Treatment: Hendlex Car Windshield Coating Nano Glass Pro and Glass Prepare Cleaner

    View on Amazon
    Why we like it: Being a nanotechnology-based treatment, a single treatment should last longer than other types of treatments.
    Editor’s Rating:

    Quick Facts:
    Type: Nanotechnology-based
    Longevity: N/A
    Amount: 2 50ml bottles
    If you’re looking to avoid constant reapplications or just want a high-quality window treatment, the Hendlex Nano Glass Pro is the way to go.
    This nano glass treatment will last longer than most other windshield treatments, thanks to the way ceramic coat treatments work. Not only does it more effectively bond to the glass, but it’s also more resistant to the elements than other types of treatments.
    This tiny little combo pack features two small bottles of solution: a preparation cleaner and the nano coating. This stuff is the definition of “less is more,” with these 2 small bottles providing enough solution for 8 to 10 treatments.
    For each treatment, you’ll only need a few drops. However, good luck trying to dose the treatment at just a few drops. For some reason, this treatment doesn’t have a dropper cap. Because of this, you might want to pick up a glass eye dropper to help with application.
    You should also keep in mind this isn’t the most budget-friendly treatment option available. However, given its long-term effectiveness, it’s certainly worth considering if you want a high-quality treatment that will last.

    Pros
    Lasts longer than other types of treatments
    More resistant to the elements than other treatments
    Provides enough solution for multiple treatments

    Cons
    Doesn’t have a dropper cap
    More expensive than most other treatments

    Everything You Need to Know About Windshield Treatments

    Now that we’ve covered the best windshield treatments we could find, let’s get a little more in-depth with them.
    Factors That Determine a Windshield Treatment’s Longevity
    Aside from the type of treatment you choose, there are a number of other things that can impact the longevity of a windshield treatment. Let’s take a look at some of the most important ones.
    How Often You use Your Windshield Wipers
    The more you use your windshield wipers, the quicker your treatment will fade. That’s because the friction with the wipers can rub the treatment off of your windshield.
    Weather
    You probably won’t use your wipers unless the weather calls for it. However, aside from increased wiper usage, rain and snow can slowly chip away your windshield’s treatment.
    Condition of Your Windshield
    The better the condition of your windshield is, the longer the windshield treatment will last. Generally, that means that applying a treatment to a newer car will almost always yield better results with any type of treatment.
    That’s because the normal wear that occurs over time, called pitting, slowly makes the glass’s surface uneven. An uneven surface makes for an uneven treatment application, thus making it prone to wearing out quicker. Typically, the older the windshield, the more likely it is to have pitting spots of varying degrees.
    Where You Park Your Car
    Believe it or not, where you park your car can even impact the longevity of your windshield treatment. Direct sunlight, precipitation, and extreme temperatures can all take a toll on your windshield treatment.
    For instance, if you leave your car parked outside all winter, a treatment won’t last as long as a car parked in a garage when it’s not being driven. The longer your car stays out of the elements, the longer your windshield treatment will last.
    Tips for Improving Visibility
    Thoroughly Clean Your Windshield Before Treatment
    This seems obvious enough, but it’s also the most important step in properly applying a windshield treatment. Cleaning your windshield before treating them will result in less wasted treatment, a cleaner windshield, and increased longevity. If you want your windshield treatment to work as well as possible, you can “clay bar” your windshield.
    While a spritz of glass cleaner and a paper towel will clean your windshield, using a clay bar  will change your definition of clean glass. The idea of clay barring your windshield is to remove anything and everything from the glass.
    After cleaning with a glass cleaner, clay bar your windshield, and hit it with another clean with the glass cleaner. After all of that, your windshield is perfectly primed for any treatment.
    [embedded content]
    Clean Your Windshield Wipers
    While a good windshield treatment should reduce your need for wipers, you still need to keep them in mind. Treatments typically only work well for keeping your windows clear when you’re traveling fast enough for the beaded water to fly off (somewhere around 35mph). Not only will clean wipers make for a more effective wipe, but it will keep your treatment intact for longer with wiper usage.
    To clean your wipers, just use hot soapy water or a little wiper fluid on a rag and wipe the wipers. Follow it up with a little rubbing alcohol on the rubber to soften them up and remove any soap or other remaining residue.
    Add Water to Your Buff
    After you’ve applied your treatment, you may notice a haze in your windshield. If you can’t remove the haze, even after buffing with a dry cloth, then you might try adding a little water to your buff. This will help the cloth pick up the excess treatment that’s causing the haze.
    Treat Your Side and Rear Windows
    If you want better total visibility on the road, then you should consider treating your side and rear windows as well. Of course, it will take more time than simply treating your windshield, but it’s well worth the increased visibility.
    How Do I Remove a Windshield Treatment?
    So you’ve applied a windshield treatment to your car and you don’t like how it looks. Whether you messed up or you just don’t like the way it looks on your car, removing a windshield treatment depends on the type of treatment.
    For silicone-based windshield treatments, removing it is simple with a little white vinegar, warm water, and a microfiber cloth. For removing treatments like Aquapel or a nano-coatings, you’re going to have to resort to breaking out some nasty chemicals or abrasive polish that could end up causing damage to your car if used improperly.
    Of course, this isn’t ideal if you aren’t experienced with this sort of thing. If you’re not experienced in using windshield treatments, you might want to stick with something like the Rain-X Glass Treatment to avoid any potential mishaps.
    Wrapping Up
    You’ll find that treating your windshield can have some great benefits. Not only will it keep you and your car safe, but it’ll keep your windshield looking great. Once you’ve found the right windshield treatment for your car, make sure you take proper care in applying. Then get ready to watch the magic keep your windshield clear and clean. More

  • in

    2021 Porsche 911 Turbo Brings Effortless Performance

    A quick canyon run in the 2021 911 Turbo is like going for a jog with a greyhound. Only one of you will be working at your limit. We’d call it surgically precise, but anyone still using the scalpel metaphor to describe the Turbo deserves to be shanked with one, not just for unimaginative wordplay but because a regular old steel knife doesn’t describe the micron-precise character of a 992 Turbo. You need something sharper. Something diamond tipped or obsidian. This car moves like laser light. It can slice atoms. It launches so hard to 60 mph you might only have 2.4 seconds to swallow your tongue.

    View Photos

    Porsche

    It’s not raw horsepower that gives the 911 Turbo its surgical speed, although its twin-turbo 3.7-liter flat-six engine—now making 572 horsepower—is hardly lacking. What’s more impressive is that those horses are sturdy beasts with a low, wide stance and a stable temperament. You can’t startle them, and although you might be able to get a squeal out of the Pirelli tires, it’s more of a war cry than a call for help. It takes a lot of tech to train ponies, and the 911 Turbo is a combination of mechanical and electronic brilliance. The front track width of the 2021 911 Turbo is actually slightly narrower than that of the standard Carrera, but the rear is nearly two inches wider. It’s 0.4 inch wider than the previous Turbo. Anchoring that extended track are big tires staggered to almost hot-rod levels, with 255/35R-20-inch rubber on standard 9.0-inch-wide wheels in the front and 315/30R-21s on 11.5-inch wheels in the back. Those big wheels turn like skinnies thanks to a retuned steering setup. Even the back tires are there to help by adding rear-axle steering to your all-wheel-drive slice and dice. Then, of course, there are the brakes, 16.1-inch full moons that will bring you down from triple digits as reliably as a concrete wall—and with much less damage. Shifts in the eight-speed transmission happen quicker than you can think of how you’d rather have a manual, and once you lower the whole thing down by 0.4 inches with the optional Porsche Active Suspension Management (PASM) system, you’re pretty much racetrack-ready. If our fractional-inch breakdown doesn’t give you the proper thrill, think of it this way: Taking the 911 Turbo around corners feels like someone has pulled the road straight in front of you. It’s genuinely surprising to look in the rearview mirror and see that it was winding.

    View Photos

    Porsche

    2021 Porsche 911 Turbo S at Lightning Lap 2021

    Porsche 911 Turbo S Offers Performance and Persona

    Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabriolet: Fast Headroom

    But all of this is what we expect from the 911 Turbo. A car that starts at $172,150 and can get to $200,000 almost as quickly as it can reach its 199-mph top speed ought to be a capable road-carver. It also should be a standout when it’s standing still. From outside, the Turbo shares most of the speedy jellybean looks of all 911s, but a walkaround shows that every inlet is just a smidge bigger, there’s an extendable front spoiler, and in the back it’s all ducktail and ducting, with a rear wing above the taillight bar and large air intakes in the rear fenders. In order to sound as tough as it looks, our test car came with the sport exhaust (a $3490 option), which changes the exhaust tips from the standard rectangular shape to ovals and gives the 911 an irritable snarl, sure to separate your car-loving neighbors from those who like to sleep in.
    Where the Turbo really earns its badges—a $310 option available in a variety of colors if you want them—is between high-speed sprints. The Turbo’s cabin isn’t just an acceptable place to spend a day. It’s a pleasure, a cocoon that hugs you gently, yet still offers enough room between you and a passenger for each person to maintain a sense of individual self. Back seats, as expected in any 911, are better suited to a picnic basket than picnickers, but you could shove a small pal back there in a transportation emergency.

    View Photos

    Porsche

    In advance of track testing, we gave our 911 a street test, taking it on a scavenger hunt in search of “muffler men,” those roadside-attraction fiberglass giants built in the 1960s to advertise tire shops and transmission swaps. Exact locations of road-trip oddities can be difficult to pin down, so it made for a good challenge of the 911’s map display, outward visibility, and last-minute turning radius. “Over there, I see one!” shouted my passenger, prompting a hard brake application and sudden U-turn, both of which the Turbo handled as casually as it would a turn into a driveway. Speaking of turning into driveways—often an Achilles’ heel of sports cars—steep entries and unexpected speedbumps don’t bother the 911. Even without using the optional nose lift, we were able to navigate curb cuts and skim a gravel parking lot as we hunted down L.A.’s plastic colossi. If we decide to revisit a particularly difficult entrance, the GPS coordinates of any spot can be saved and will automatically lift the car on approach.
    The 911 Turbo’s everyday ease paired with arrest-me-now performance is what makes this car worth big bucks. It’s good at everything, making it not a surgeon’s scalpel after all but a handy, handsome, Swiss Army knife.

    Specifications

    Specifications
    2021 Porsche 911 Turbo
    VEHICLE TYPE rear-engine, all-wheel-drive, 2+2-passenger, 2-door coupe
    BASE PRICE $172,150
    ENGINE TYPE twin-turbocharged and intercooled DOHC 24-valve flat-6, aluminum block and heads, direct fuel injectionDisplacement 229 in3, 3746 cm3Power 572 hp @ 6500 rpmTorque 553 lb-ft @ 2250 rpm
    TRANSMISSION 8-speed dual-clutch automatic
    DIMENSIONS Wheelbase: 96.5 inLength: 178.5 inWidth: 74.8 inHeight: 50.9–51.3 inPassenger volume: 74 ft3Cargo volume: 5 ft3Curb weight (C/D est): 3650 lb
    PERFORMANCE (C/D EST) 60 mph: 2.4 sec100 mph: 5.6 sec1/4 mile: 10.5 secTop speed: 199 mph
    EPA FUEL ECONOMY Combined/city/highway: 17/15/20 mpg

    This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io More

  • in

    Tested: Nine 2008 Compact Crossovers vs. Drummond Island

    From the February 2008 issue of Car and Driver.
    The mud hole didn’t look that deep. As it turned out, it was deep enough to be on a catfish farm. We did use a maple branch to gauge its depth. Okay, so maybe we didn’t get the branch all the way out there in the, uh, middle.
    [editoriallinks id=’deb5df21-26fd-4e56-a7b3-0097607bcf2a’ align=’left’][/editoriallinks]
    See, what happened was, we made an error in judgment common to off-roaders who are wet, weary, and want beer. The trail got rough—too muddy, too rocky, too vertical—but a paved road was only 1.2 miles distant. Who’d quit at that point? Especially since the only alternative was a two-hour off-road ramble in reverse. In the dark. In weather three degrees above freezing.
    About 20 feet ahead of this deep catfish hole, the Mercedes-Benz GL320 CDI camera car had gotten stuck in another gooey clay hole. We took a vote and agreed to dispatch our fiercest off-roader, the Jeep Liberty, to go set it free. That’s how it was similarly torpedoed. A sunken Liberty ship.
    Our plan was to subject nine of the best-known compact SUVs to a mixture of light off-roading and challenging paved roads. Destination: Drummond Island, a 20-minute ferry ride from the eastern tip of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Twenty-five miles long and 15 miles wide, it is the largest freshwater island in the United States, a curious limestone escarpment dotted with cedar swamps, ridges, and prairie meadows. The island is home to 1200 full-time residents, not including bobcats, eagles, and wolves, and is the site of former Domino’s Pizza mogul Tom Monaghan’s controversial but bucolic 3000-acre resort, built in the late 1980s. We stayed next to the cabins that Pizza Man erected specially for his pals—a priest and two of his former employees, Sparky Anderson and Bo Schembechler. None of those guys showed up.
    [editoriallinks id=’66f827fb-c9d3-4077-b1c1-1c6e190416e4′ align=’left’][/editoriallinks]
    We hadn’t gathered this many soft-roaders since a snowy 2001 comparo that the Ford Escape won. Since then, the segment has exploded. “In a lackluster ’07,” noted Automotive News, “this is where the action is.” Sales of car-based SUVs climbed 23.5 percent in the first nine months of ’07. As of last fall, there existed 45 crossover nameplates, 11 more than the year before. The three hottest hot cakes? Honda’s CR-V, Ford’s Escape, and Toyota’s RAV4.
    Our nine econo-ute contestants all featured four-wheel drive and stickers as close to $25,000 as we could arrange. Although Americans have thumbed their noses at wagons for years, these are, in fact, tall wagons.
    None of our SUVs had a skid plate. None, apart from the Jeep and Suzuki, made more than faint claims to off-road prowess. “So how far do you want to take this?” asked our off-road guide, Craig Hoffman.
    [image id=’7e36e3bb-a44f-4a9b-b6a9-e62c41c0f886′ mediaId=’ec9a227d-76fd-4932-b9ca-771bbe5b520e’ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    “Let’s just take the straightest route to the nearest beer-and-burger joint,” we told him. Which is how we wound up having to return the next day with chains, come-alongs, snatch straps, a water pump with a three-inch hose, and a jacked-up Ford F-250. It took three hours, but we yanked the Benz and the Jeep back through the kind of primordial goo that would ruin an alligator. Both fired up instantly. Both continued unfazed.
    “Tell me again, what magazine do you work for?” asked Hoffman.
    “Women’s Wear Daily,” I informed.
    [vehicle type=’adtag’ vehicle-body-style=” vehicle-make=’jeep’ vehicle-model=’jeep_liberty’ vehicle-model-category=” vehicle-submodel=’jeep_liberty_jeep-liberty_2008′ vehicle-year=’2008′][/vehicle]
    Ninth Place: Jeep Liberty Limited 4×4
    [image id=’7130948d-1698-4852-a2f5-57e5c7ab89a5′ mediaId=’7cd63d35-8879-444b-95c3-e82e53ba7b70′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    You can’t always get what you want, and what we wanted—but couldn’t locate—was a Liberty with one option only, the $445 Selec-Trac II four-wheel drive. Although this second-gen Liberty carried the steepest base and as-tested prices in this group, it remains a conveyance so squarely aimed at the segment that we couldn’t exclude it.
    HIGHS: Vaultlike platform, a bull in the mud, a brand name with cachet.LOWS: Cramped seats and footwells, too heavy, dismal fuel economy.
    With its buttressed unibody, our Toledo terror felt even more solid and trucklike than the Suzuki. In fact, it was too insistent about its truckishness, what with that bolt-upright gun slit of a windshield, no dashboard, 4406 pounds of mass ( 952 more pounds than the winner of this comparo), and a trans tunnel so wide that it squeezed the front footwells into little bowling alleys. No room for a driver’s dead pedal. Neither was there room for proper seats, whose cushions were so narrow that we vowed to give up french fries. Or would those be liberty fries?
    [editoriallinks id=’26100905-550e-4836-b47d-35e7997a8fa1′ align=’left’][/editoriallinks]
    No one was comfortable in the Jeep. It was the tallest vehicle here and always felt tippy, and its springs—super compliant in the first couple inches of travel—induced uneasy yawing that, in turn, confounded its sense of straight-ahead. Steering corrections were obligatory every couple seconds. Combine that with a spongy brake pedal, a 194-foot stopping distance, and the worst engine NVH, and you have a vehicle relying too heavily on a previous reputation.
    At least the SOHC 3.7-liter V-6 was a bull, offering the second-greatest power (210 horsepower) and the most torque (235 pound-feet). Throttle tip-in was smooth, too, a real plus during rock crawling. Alas, the V-6 delivered an observed 16 mpg, simply unacceptable. A fifth gear might have helped.
    [image id=’d35c5c08-a627-420e-87e7-4ab42932965f’ mediaId=’34b5d0d3-9333-4b3e-9928-ec6a6a49e167′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Of course, trolling through Drummond’s deepest and dirtiest off-road goop, all of those complaints vanished. On hand was an unbeatable 9.5 inches of ground clearance, hill-descent control, hill-start assist, ABS that knows to pulse longer in sand or gravel, zero body flex, big approach and departure angles, and a four-wheel-drive low range that multiplies engine torque 2.72 times. At which point, if the Jeep won’t climb it, just go out and buy some rappelling gear.
    It’s still a real Jeep, live rear axle and all, which will warm the hearts of loyal Jamboristas. But as one editor put it, “If you want a four-wheel-drive truck, why not buy a four-wheel-drive truck?”
    THE VERDICT: Happy in the mountains of Montana, unhappy on errands in Minneapolis.
    2008 Jeep Liberty Limited 4×4210-hp V-6, 4-speed automatic, 4406 lbBase/as-tested price: $26,785/$27,330Cargo volume, behind front/rear: 65/31 cu ftTransfer case: Full-time 2-speed with auto rear-axle engagementGround clearance: 9.5 inC/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 9.3 sec1/4 mile: 17.0 @ 81 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 194 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.67 gC/D observed fuel economy: 16 mpg
    [vehicle type=’adtag’ vehicle-body-style=” vehicle-make=’hyundai’ vehicle-model=’hyundai_tucson’ vehicle-model-category=” vehicle-submodel=’hyundai_tucson_hyundai-tucson_2008′ vehicle-year=’2008′][/vehicle]
    Eighth Place: Hyundai Tucson Limited 4WD
    [image id=’c0be10a6-377b-4a4e-b600-1f7c72259d87′ mediaId=’f8ed89e0-9dae-4001-9b7d-a5056fc5cd9b’ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    The Tucson Limited is an exemplar of the Hyundai credo: a whole lot of stuff for a small pile o’ cash. Among other amenities, our tester came fitted with leather seats, XM satellite radio, alloy wheels, fog lights, a heated 10-way driver’s seat, six metal tie-down anchors for cargo, a composite cargo floor that’s easy to wipe clean, a 200-watt stereo, a flip-up backlight, and a twin-cam V-6. And then there’s Hyundai’s five-year/60,000-mile warranty.
    [editoriallinks id=’757ce8b6-22c0-4356-b387-727e063ac0bf’ align=’left’][/editoriallinks]
    But that’s where the excitement more or less hits a brick wall. Despite its V-6, the Tucson was the slowest to 60 mph and 100 mph and spent the most time lollygagging through the quarter-mile. Part of the problem was dilatory throttle tip-in—which at least made for silky step-off—and part of the problem was the four-speed automatic, which was apparently programmed in geriatric mode. On uphill grades at interstate speeds—where this vehicle, by the way, whipped up a hurricane of wind noise, tying it with the loudest in the group—the transmission hunted like a springer spaniel.
    HIGHS: Standard amenities galore, cushy ride, seamless all-wheel drive system.LOWS: Lethargic in all its moves, major understeer.
    What’s more, the steering offers vague turn-in and goes leaden during hard cornering. The suspension needs to be stiffened to reduce body wallow, which might also mitigate the way-too-early understeer. And an upward bump in fit and finish would help.
    [image id=’f2888bc9-3cb4-480b-bd7e-7318ee936fcf’ mediaId=’d5235157-147f-47f2-ae89-80aa599be830′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    On the other hand, headroom is expansive, fore-and-aft visibility is superb, the turn-signal and wiper stalks move with Lexus-like precision, and the Tucson surprised us by its ability to hump along Drummond Island’s Jeep Jamboree trail. Its approach and departure angles are greater than the Jeep’s, and its on-demand all-wheel drive reacts instantly and can be locked manually into a 50/50 split. We about fainted when the Tucson, attached to a snatch strap, yanked our high-centered Jeep Liberty off a hummock.
    In the end, the Hyundai felt old and too willing to remind that it’s an entry-level ute, making no attempt to trade on any emotional attraction. Noted one editor, “It seems aimed at folks who frequent bingo parlors.”
    THE VERDICT: Looks old, feels old, could do with a jolt of adrenaline.
    2008 Hyundai Tucson Limited 4×4173-hp V-6, 4-speed automatic, 3700 lbBase/as-tested price: $24,505/$24,665Cargo volume, behind front/rear: 66/23 cu ftTransfer case: Full time with auto rear-axle engagement and manual lockGround clearance: 7.2 inC/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 10.3 sec1/4 mile: 17.7 @ 79 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 186 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.73 gC/D observed fuel economy: 18 mpg
    [vehicle type=’adtag’ vehicle-body-style=” vehicle-make=’ford’ vehicle-model=’ford_escape’ vehicle-model-category=” vehicle-submodel=’ford_escape_ford-escape_2008′ vehicle-year=’2008′][/vehicle]
    Seventh Place: Ford Escape XLT AWD
    [image id=’e4519078-ea23-40ad-96d0-c3af0c48c1d6′ mediaId=’0f2d6cf1-ae22-4987-89d1-3b7551f3a0d1′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    For 2008, the home office in Dearborn has freshened the Escape’s exterior and interior, although you’d want to be holding before-and-after Polaroids to pinpoint the differences. You can’t blame Ford. How much stuff would you change if you’d sold a million Escapes since its introduction in 2001?
    HIGHS: Open and airy cockpit, an accomplished long-distance cruiser.LOWS: Needs more isolation from road noise, could use a fifth gear.
    The Escape’s ride is firm, with minimal body roll, yet road imperfections are nicely filtered. The electric power steering is light if somewhat vague off-center. The two-tone seats are firm, high, and bolstered in all the right places. The interior surfaces are cheerful, airy, and pleasing to the touch. Even though it’s an illusion, the cabin feels as big as a gymnasium—probably a function of the super-thin A-, B-, C-, and D-pillars in tandem with a large backlight.
    [editoriallinks id=’6d7a6189-f35e-4d73-a32f-6eb64fa48017′ align=’left’][/editoriallinks]
    Off-road, the Escape proved more agile than we predicted, in part because its wheelbase is as short as the Honda’s and in part because of its good departure angle. In the sippy holes, it was hindered only by its rear trailing links, whose leading edges were adept at snagging the tops of sticks, sod, and parts that fell off the other SUVs. At day’s end, the undercarriage abaft looked like it had just plowed the lower 40.
    Although Ford claims the Escape’s freshening included a major load of extra sound-deadening materials, we wish it had gone further. What’s more, back when this SUV was introduced, its rear seat was among the most comfortable for actual human adults. Since then, the Honda, the Saturn, and the Toyota have all surpassed it, and the skimpy fabric on the Ford’s seatbacks barely conceals the metal headrest posts.
    [image id=’06e982f1-49d8-4e56-b719-f061df4e7fe6′ mediaId=’8bb0aa1f-3c2a-40b7-9e64-b3151da801c0′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Still, all major control relationships are bang-on. “Everything seems well thought out,” said one editor. “I could cruise all day in this.” Added another, “It’s such an honest SUV—no unnecessary gewgaws, just the essentials to get the job done.” Too bad the redo didn’t include a fifth gear and more effective brakes.
    THE VERDICT: Honest and attractive, but the freshening didn’t go far enough.
    2008 Ford Escape XLT AWD200-hp V-6, 4-speed automatic, 3540 lbBase/as-tested price: $24,485/$24,485Cargo volume, behind front/rear: 66/29 cu ftTransfer case: Full time with auto rear-axle engagementGround clearance: 8.1 inC/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 9.0 sec1/4 mile: 16.9 @ 83 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 198 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.68 gC/D observed fuel economy: 19 mpg
    [vehicle type=’adtag’ vehicle-body-style=’suv’ vehicle-make=’saturn’ vehicle-model=’saturn_vue’ vehicle-model-category=” vehicle-submodel=’saturn_vue_saturn-vue_2008′ vehicle-year=’2008′][/vehicle]
    Sixth Place: Saturn Vue XE AWD
    [image id=’68d04588-cf72-4a06-b073-081c84033016′ mediaId=’56648aab-fef6-458c-a911-467eebc52d60′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    The new Vue, developed in Germany by Opel, is so much better than its predecessor that GM might well have considered changing its name. For one thing, the suspension tuning is now Teutonic—supple, yet with fine path control and no untamed wheel motions. For another, the ’08 Vue looks luxurious inside. Its faux-chrome and carbon-fiber trim bits feel rich to the touch, the amber IP backlighting looks Euro classy, and there’s been no attempt—inside or out—at styling gimmickry.
    HIGHS: Luxo interior, soothing interstate cruiser, Euro suspension tuning.LOWS: Daggerlike lumbar supports, smaller inside than it looks.
    You sit tall in the saddle, with vast headroom and an unobstructed view of the world—a room with a Vue. We did, however, bitch about the seats’ super-aggressive lumbar supports, and we also complained about the big steering wheel, whose squared-off inner lip resists your grip. But the platform proved solid and rattle-free, and everyone agreed the Vue was as comfy as the Escape on long interstate hauls.
    Nor was this Saturn humiliated off-road, although its poor approach angle resulted in the dismemberment of its chin spoiler. Otherwise, GM’s all-wheel-drive system was quick to transfer up to half of the pushrod V-6’s 222 horses—the most in this group—to the rear wheels. That power, by the way, pulled the Vue to 30 mph sooner than any of its competitors and placed it only 0.2 second behind the Nissan on the journey to 60 mph—all of it accomplished with minimal engine or road thrash. Combine that with the only six-speed in the group, not to mention the 181-foot stopping distance from 70 mph, and this Saturn was sure to swagger into victory circle, yes?
    [image id=’b81f0e28-48a2-4412-b8df-3cd1796d4c6a’ mediaId=’94894e55-9726-4347-bdd2-c67830e00c7e’ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Well, no. This “compact” ute weighs a shameful 4104 pounds, making it the second heaviest of our trucklets. So it must be bigger, right? Wrong again. Riding on a wheelbase identical to its forebear’s, the new Vue’s extra lard doesn’t result in more passenger or luggage space, and neither does it allow for a third-row seat. In fact, the Vue offers the least cargo volume behind the front seats. And then there’s its observed 17 mpg, the predictable outcome of a largish V-6 attached to two-plus tons of anything.
    Customers who scrutinize econo-SUVs also scrutinize fuel prices. If gas reaches $4 per gallon, it may well be, “Adieu, Vue.”
    THE VERDICT: A handsome lad who is 400 pounds overweight.
    2008 Saturn Vue XE AWD222-hp V-6, 6-speed automatic, 4104 lbBase/as-tested price: $24,570/$24,800Cargo volume, behind front/rear: 56/29 cu ftTransfer case: Full time with auto rear-axle engagementGround clearance: 7.9 inC/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 8.4 sec1/4 mile: 16.6 @ 83 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 181 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.76 gC/D observed fuel economy: 17 mpg
    [vehicle type=’adtag’ vehicle-body-style=” vehicle-make=’suzuki’ vehicle-model=’suzuki_grand-vitara’ vehicle-model-category=” vehicle-submodel=’suzuki_grand-vitara_suzuki-grand-vitara_2008′ vehicle-year=’2008′][/vehicle]
    Fifth Place: Suzuki Grand Vitara 4WD XSport
    [image id=’b7504139-eac3-4b42-b0e2-6b54649f9d44′ mediaId=’80887c30-6b46-4607-b766-29280407fe16′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Among our soft-roaders, only the Jeep and the Suzuki felt genuinely trucklike, partly because both employ extra buttressing in their unibody construction. The Grand Vitara’s short windshield, thin A-pillars, high seating position, 3000-pound towing capacity, and taut ride encouraged that perception. Truckish or not, it held its own on Drummond Island’s twisty paved roads, despite more body roll than we’d prefer. Its steering, in particular, was a boon, telegraphing road textures and available grip.
    HIGHS: Strong in the muck, macho styling, as solid as a tank.LOWS: Cramped interior, noisy at idle, somber and soulless cockpit.
    Although the Suzuki resembles some sort of macho Freightliner, with a way-too-dark bad-boy interior to match, its cockpit dimensions aren’t vast. Among our nine sport-utes, the Grand Vitara offered the least front interior volume, the second-worst rear volume, and a back seat that was shoulder-to-shoulder misery for three.
    Powered by a 185-hp twin-cam V-6, which was far louder at idle than any other engine here, our Suzuki was as slow to 60 mph as the Jeep. But the Grand Vitara is a big brute that feels as if it were pushing a lot of atmosphere. By the time it realized 100 mph, it had fallen 3.9 seconds behind the Liberty, and at interstate speeds, the Suzuki’s transmission often felt obliged to kick down a gear or two on barely perceptible upgrades.
    [image id=’c834fcc5-35aa-4d38-94b9-c332038f7111′ mediaId=’6b2dd18b-fb68-41c2-bad3-0fea3ee45e25′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Off-road, the Grand Vitara was pure Viagra, nearly as solid and capable as the Jeep, despite 1.6 fewer inches of ground clearance. Below the HVAC controls looms a big rotary dial that engages neutral, 4wd high, 4wd high lock, or 4wd low lock. In neutral, you can flat-tow the Suzuki behind your RV without racking up odo miles or spinning any gears. In low gear, with the center diff tied down, the Grand Vitara inched effortlessly over boulders and logs, placating those editors who are insecure about being seen driving anything that smacks of “mommy mobile.
    THE VERDICT: A mini SUV with the heart of a Hummer.
    2008 Suzuki Grand Vitara 4WD XSport185-hp V-6, 5-speed automatic, 3728 lbBase/as-tested price: $24,399/$24,399Cargo volume, behind front/rear: 67/24 cu ftTransfer case: Full time/2-speedGround clearance: 7.9 inC/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 9.3 sec1/4 mile: 17.1 @ 80 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 178 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.68 gC/D observed fuel economy: 17 mpg
    [vehicle type=’adtag’ vehicle-body-style=’suv’ vehicle-make=’mitsubishi’ vehicle-model=’mitsubishi_outlander’ vehicle-model-category=’compact-crossovers-and-suvs’ vehicle-submodel=’mitsubishi_outlander_mitsubishi-outlander_2008′ vehicle-year=’2008′][/vehicle]
    Fourth Place: Mitsubishi Outlander SE AWD
    [image id=’9e435ede-d21b-4832-8500-3d571d350d40′ mediaId=’407c3ca4-f8d1-40f4-ad95-f4229fcfdd4b’ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    This second-gen Outlander now can be had with a 168-hp, 2.4-liter inline-four rather than the previously standard V-6. The four-banger is mated only to a CVT rather than a six-speed automatic. To placate traditionalists, Mitsubishi installed a pair of paddle shifters on the steering column. They work eagerly and instantly, but it still seems goofy to gin up fake gears for a gearless system. We mostly used the paddles in downshift mode to summon some engine braking.
    HIGHS: Clever liftgate, carlike on pavement, hauls a lot o’ stuff.LOWS: Cheap-looking interior, gritty engine noise, vague steering.
    Our Outlander was shod with the lowest-profile, highest-performance tires in this group, so it was no shock that it logged the fastest lane change and was almost as capable on the skidpad as the Honda and Nissan. On twisty roads, it was agile, willing, and took a confident set, although its steering wasn’t nearly as communicative as the Nissan’s, which did damage to its fun-to-drive rating. The Mitsu nonetheless felt extraordinarily carlike, in part because it was as serene as the Toyota at idle and also the quietest at full whack. Despite those encouraging sound-pressure levels, the engine evinced an omnipresent grittiness that drew attention. And because the CVT can allow the engine to hang at WOT for longish spells, unkind comments ensued.
    [editoriallinks id=’b45b7a1e-0191-472f-9a74-27e58e95e13a’ align=’left’][/editoriallinks]
    The Outlander offered the most cargo storage behind its split rear seat, whose seatbacks, by the way, can be set to recline at any angle. It is available with a third-row seat. And it offers a two-piece liftgate, the lower section of which swings out flat, like a pickup truck’s tailgate. Two 220-pounders can sit on that flap.
    The Mitsubishi’s chief flaw was its dour and dull cockpit, chockablock with plasticky, cheap-looking surfaces that we deemed unacceptable in a $25,000 vehicle.
    You can manually lock the front and rear axles, and there’s plenty of ground clearance, but the Outlander tiptoed timidly off-road, partly because of its street-biased tires, partly because of its worst-in-test departure angle, but mostly because it felt fragile.
    [image id=’1e30fb87-6b77-43c1-90cf-a61a656db063′ mediaId=’d8f355b0-2a8f-49a4-92c9-28d15a7dce40′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    The Mitsu performed all tasks satisfactorily but none spectacularly, usually not a recipe for showroom stardom. Yet in the first 10 months of 2007, Outlander sales nearly tripled over the same period in 2006.
    THE VERDICT: Crisp interior styling but dynamically bland.
    2008 Mitsubishi Outlander SE 4WD168-hp inline-4, CVT, 3654 lbBase/as-tested price: $25,150/$25,150Cargo volume, behind front/rear: 73/39 cu ftTransfer case: Part or full time with auto rear-axle engagement and manual lockGround clearance: 8.5 inC/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 9.3 sec1/4 mile: 17.3 @ 83 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 176 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.78 gC/D observed fuel economy: 19 mpg
    [vehicle type=’adtag’ vehicle-body-style=” vehicle-make=’nissan’ vehicle-model=’nissan_rogue’ vehicle-model-category=” vehicle-submodel=’nissan_rogue_nissan-rogue_2008′ vehicle-year=’2008′][/vehicle]
    Third Place: Nissan Rogue SL AWD
    [image id=’99d60901-930c-4dfb-bc47-7cc77ede4273′ mediaId=’45fd5feb-bcaa-43f2-9c17-84e833aba0c9′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Truth is, there’s no econo-ute that reliably twists your lips into a smile whenever you happen upon a stretch of Nürburgring-like tarmac. But the Sentra-based Nissan Rogue at least comes closest.
    The Rogue emerged as the sports car of the group, posting the quickest sprints to 60 and 100 mph and logging the briefest quarter-mile, backed by the highest trap speed. It was tied with the Toyota for best 50-to-70-mph passing potential. It was tied with the Mitsubishi for greatest top speed. It delivered the best brake feel. And no other test ute surpassed its skidpad grip.
    HIGHS: Go-get-’em handling, steering, and acceleration.LOWS: Grim rear visibility, nervous off-road, somber interior.
    Everywhere we nosed it, the Rogue felt light, nimble, and better planted than anything in the group, and its steering was the most carlike, with terrific on-center feel, perfect heft, and a sense of straight-ahead matched only by the Toyota’s. That the Nissan topped our fun-to-drive category surprised no one—and all for the lowest base price.
    [editoriallinks id=’8fe9174d-99bf-4e9f-86f3-43634f14f3b4′ align=’left’][/editoriallinks]
    So, uh, shouldn’t the performance-biased player win a C/D comparo? Well, not this time. The Rogue’s mandatory CVT powertrain is loud at WOT, where it drones for seconds at a time if your right foot is heavy. Strangely, it makes up for that failing by being the quietest at 70 mph, and its 170-horse four-banger was judged as vibrationless as the Honda’s and Toyota’s.
    But the Rogue’s funereal gray and black interior was a Brian De Palma dream come true, and its thick D-pillar and tiny backlight darkened the cabin and restricted visibility. Off-road, moreover, the Nissan felt as out of place as the Mitsubishi, wanting to sprint ahead rather than crawl. Still, its front and rear axles can be locked in a 50/50 power split at launch, and the Rogue concluded our nature bash muddied but not bloodied.
    [image id=’9a5e9874-4c05-4094-9ee6-3147570316f6′ mediaId=’d07bb17c-db0b-4079-ae3d-fb18aabc8eb2′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    The Nissan is as narrow as any of its colleagues here and lower than any of them. It weighs within 54 pounds of the lightest. And it eschews a big-horsepower V-6 in favor of an inline-four. Yet it gets the job done with speed and panache. Saturn, Jeep, Ford—are you listening?
    THE VERDICT: A stunning example of extracting the most from the least.
    2008 Nissan Rogue SL AWD170-hp inline-4, CVT, 3508 lbBase/as-tested price: $22,615/$24,925Cargo volume, behind front/rear: 58/29 cu ftTransfer case: Full time 2-speed with auto rear-axle engagement and manual lockGround clearance: 8.3 inC/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 8.2 sec1/4 mile: 16.4 @ 86 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 185 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.79 gC/D observed fuel economy: 20 mpg
    [vehicle type=’adtag’ vehicle-body-style=’suv’ vehicle-make=’honda’ vehicle-model=’honda_cr-v’ vehicle-model-category=’compact-crossovers-and-suvs’ vehicle-submodel=’honda_cr-v_honda-cr-v_2008′ vehicle-year=’2008′][/vehicle]
    Second Place: Honda CR-V EX 4WD
    [image id=’b6ed4995-d102-4ae1-9516-bbfd85c656ac’ mediaId=’d10c472c-b8e1-417d-9a4a-7c4560534646′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Our cynical editors rarely reach agreement on anything, including the depth of mud puddles, but every single voter simply gushed over this third-gen CR-V’s interior. Its cabin is airy, with 360-degree visibility. It feels tall, inviting, and vast, and the materials are expensively grained and stylishly matched—no jarring transitions from any one color or surface to another. The floor is as flat as a double-wide’s. And we’re pleased that the liftgate is finally hinged at the top, allowing loading from the left or right while shading you from the elements.
    HIGHS: Amazing fit and finish, a cockpit as cheerful as an Easter hat.LOWS: Odd-looking nose, could use a manual lock for the rear axle.
    Moreover, the front seats are winners—firm cushions that are just the right length, captain’s-chair armrests that somehow never obstruct the movement of your elbows, and seatbacks that gently wrap around your upper torso, holding you in place without making you feel trapped. The gauges are clear, the center stack is friendly, the steering wheel telescopes, there are storage bins galore, and the shifter clicks with authority.
    [editoriallinks id=’b3f1d135-1cee-4511-9650-5178e52cf8dc’ align=’left’][/editoriallinks]
    Although the CR-V is tied with the Escape for the shortest wheelbase, it is capacious behind the front seats, and it matches the Toyota for the most comfortable rear seat for two or three riders. The split rear seat reclines and offers fore-and-aft adjustment, and a center rider can stretch out, stashing his feet under the collapsible center console.
    We loved the CR-V’s dead-accurate, telepathic steering, even though it was a titch heavier than the Toyota’s. The ride-and-handling trade-off proved perfect. On pavement, the CR-V responded instantly—but never nervously—to all inputs. It offered the agility of a Civic with the solidity and structure of something heavier and more expensive.
    [image id=’af83008d-231a-4f59-9d36-bf27ca208b4d’ mediaId=’6b527564-16fd-4b55-a0e3-7fb8de8fae81′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    In the end, the Honda lost to the Toyota—by the tiniest of margins—for two reasons. First, its new nose looks like Jimmy Durante’s hanging off the front of a golf cart. And second, this Honda—like the Saturn and Ford—decides on its own when to rotate the rear wheels. Off-road, the transfer case did, in fact, send power astern quickly, but there’s nothing like the confidence that accrues from manually locking the axles before you start climbing a mossy limestone ledge covered in what our guide said was “more than a little deer snot.”
    THE VERDICT: Dynamically a TKO. A tsunami of quality, verve, and value.
    2008 Honda CR-V EX 4WD166-hp inline-4, 5-speed automatic, 3500 lbBase/as-tested price: $24,785/$24,785Cargo volume, behind front/rear: 73/36 cu ftTransfer case: Full time with auto rear-axle engagementGround clearance: 7.3 inC/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 9.1 sec1/4 mile: 17.1 @ 81 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 181 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.79 gC/D observed fuel economy: 21 mpg
    [vehicle type=’adtag’ vehicle-body-style=’suv’ vehicle-make=’toyota’ vehicle-model=’toyota_rav4′ vehicle-model-category=’compact-crossovers-and-suvs’ vehicle-submodel=’toyota_rav4_toyota-rav4_2008′ vehicle-year=’2008′][/vehicle]
    First Place: Toyota RAV4 4×4
    [image id=’17890298-4adf-486d-b392-0552e2648a89′ mediaId=’85dc767a-b249-49c4-9a83-c9f9c9854dce’ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Last year, a RAV4 landed on our 5Best Trucks list, although it was the V-6 rocket-ship version that swayed our delinquent hearts. In this test, we rounded up the cheapest, down-and-dirtiest four-wheel-drive four-banger we could find, sporting the lowest as-tested price. It was fitted with stamped-steel wheels and plastic hubcaps, for God’s sake. Yet it still claimed the big trophy, which, at C/D, looks a lot like a six-pack of Heineken.
    We once asked a senior Toyota engineer if he’d grown accustomed to winning so many annual awards. “Uh, no,” he said.
    HIGHS: Spacious back seat, Toyota ergonomics, Toyota resale value.LOWS: Noisy at WOT, needs a fifth gear, ought to come with alloy wheels.
    Climb into the spacious RAV4 and the first thing you notice is the organic, two-tier dash—radio in the balcony, HVAC controls in the lobby—whose swollen protuberances at first look Jetson-ish but in fact break up what would otherwise be a dull sea of plastic. The seats look expensive and are comfortable for hours. Same with the back seat, where the Honda and the Toyota—the two lightest vehicles in this group—tied for two- and three-man comfort.
    [editoriallinks id=’171c52d8-f35e-4ef8-ac03-69c8862a9890′ align=’left’][/editoriallinks]
    Ergonomics? Tied with the Honda. Fit and finish? Ditto. Observed fuel economy? Two mpg better than anything in the group. Want a third-row seat? Toyota offers one. The RAV4 became the limo of our group.
    Off-road, the Toyota didn’t offer much ground clearance, but its approach angle was better than the Jeep’s, and a push of a button locked the front and rear axles, which then stayed locked up to 25 mph.
    The Toyota’s ride was a titch firmer than the Honda’s, but both handled with effortless competence—like cars, you might say—and the RAV4’s linear steering evinced the sort of precision that no one would expect in this segment.
    [image id=’1b9ea0f2-ee00-4e8e-9d89-3f057a1ccb6b’ mediaId=’b0171cd6-aec2-4c56-8324-156eda0126f6′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Still, the Toyota wasn’t perfect. Although its transmission was a gem—especially notable for its flawless downshifts—it would have been even better with a fifth gear. At full throttle, the engine was tied with the Nissan’s for emitting the most racket. The plastic-cladded A-pillars might better have been swathed in the cloth we so admired on the door inserts. And the liftgate’s glass should have flipped up.
    Otherwise, this is a mellifluous medley of structure, drivetrain, road manners, and carry-all practicality—an SUV you could justify to Ralph Nader. Notice, though, that the RAV4 defeated the CR-V by only two points. Statistically speaking, you might call that a tie. We wouldn’t argue.
    THE VERDICT: Chassis, drivetrain, and body all speaking the same language.
    2008 Toyota RAV4 4×4166-hp inline-4, 4-speed automatic, 3454 lbBase/as-tested price: $23,185/$23,743Cargo volume, behind front/rear: 73/36 cu ftTransfer case: Full time with auto rear-axle engagement and manual lockGround clearance: 7.5 inC/D TEST RESULTS60 mph: 8.8 sec1/4 mile: 16.9 @ 82 mphBraking, 70­–0 mph: 179 ftRoadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.74 gC/D observed fuel economy: 23 mpg
    This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io More

  • in

    Tested: 1956 Mercedes-Benz 300SL Is Automotive Brilliance

    From the April 1956 issue of Sports Cars Illustrated.

    So you can’t climb Everest, you can’t have Monroe, and you’re not likely ever to ride a rocket to the moon. But you can, if you’re properly heeled, achieve an experience that’s in the same ultimate class—you can get yourself a Mercedes-Benz 300SL. And if you really respond to machinery, the effect is the same.
    After exhaustive road testing of a standard 300SL, after driving impressions in a race-tuned version and inter­views with several owners and specialist technicians, I’m ready to haul off and make a flat, unequivocal statement: This is the finest production sports car in the world. No exceptions, no qualifications. On all critical counts, it scores.
    [editoriallinks id=’8aefd98d-4727-451d-95aa-e50d3b2d0057′ align=’left’][/editoriallinks]
    As a piece of automotive sculpture the 300SL is a mas­terpiece. With its “gullwing” doors and its own Teutonic treatment of hippy, organic contours it stands splendidly apart from all the clichés of postwar styling, including the much-plagiarized Italian school. The 300SL is a car that can take first place in a concours d’elegance, then clobber all comers in a tough race. Man­ifestations of its might are victories won all over Europe and the United States from the world’s best all-out competition sports cars. At the same time it’s a luxury carriage. Sports cars as a rule offer little in the way of comforts and nice refine­ments. In fact, starkness is part of the stock-in-trade of most sports car builders. But the 300SL achieves the all-weather comfort and the rich finish of fine luxury cars without “engineering compromise”—that rarely-challenged excuse for typical sports car asceticism.
    Beyond this, the 300SL is prophecy incarnate. It’s a pace-setter, a style-setter, a design conception that is bound to influence the world’s automotive industry for many years to come. For example, a top Detroit stylist tells me that the 300SL’s roof doors are sure to be copied in the coming U.S. cars because they are the only means of getting in and out of the kind of ultra-low vehicles that the buying public craves. Several Detroit “idea cars” already have imitated this feature.
    And styling is the least of the 300SL’s shock treatments to the industry. Gasoline fuel injection (FI), first pioneered on the 300SL, will give the internal combustion engine a new lease on life and probably delay the advent of gas turbines for years. Detroit, aware that FI means instantaneous throttle response, more horsepower, and lower body lines, is already working all-out on injection. At the last count, there were 18 300SL’s in the possession of Detroit manufacturers who are boning up on FI’s secrets.
    [image id=’d4f57dcc-b10d-4509-9eaa-690c18b66c3f’ mediaId=’9ee57394-6914-4a29-be91-07516e494020′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Another feature that’s bound to be copied is the position of the 300SL’s engine—mounted on its side to lower body lines and the center of gravity. The brakes are novel. While brake diameters in all cars have shrunk to conform to shrinking tire sizes, it took the designers of the 300SL to think of widening the brakes to compensate for the lost friction area. The 300SL has four-wheel independent suspension, a feature of Mercedes-Benz cars since the early thirties. This, too, is being readied on Detroit drawing boards. Even the intricate and expensive trapezoidal frame may be adapted to automation’s techniques. Literally, the 300SL is a car of the future that can be possessed today.
    All 300SL’s are not necessarily alike. The standard pack­age that you buy across the counter costs $7463 at U.S. port of entry. It’s a magnificent performer, with dazzling acceleration and a top speed of nearly 140 mph. But there are many performance options. It’s beautifully, finely fin­ished, but there are many finish options. The result is that although you can get a 300SL for under $7500, few are sold for less than $8,000 after licence [sic] fees, taxes, and options have been added. And if you want a 160-mph, all-out competition 300SL you can invest $10,000 or $11,000 with no difficulty. But don’t get the idea that the pin-money 300SL is anything less than a going bomb.
    The fire engine red, strictly standard model that I first drove came to my door equipped with meister mechaniker Robert Leutge, an expert technician sent to the U.S. by the Mercedes factory to train agency mechanics. He tossed the door up, slid over to the passenger’s side, and I entered.
    [image id=’ed127bbf-ec7f-43ab-b7cf-686a2dcebbe9′ mediaId=’4fd85316-1347-407a-9248-43e0db0343e8′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    With the 300SL this is something of an art and it varies according to build, sex, and dress. For the first or fiftieth time it’s a thrill. Actually, the car is not a handy package to climb in and out of but the mild gymnastics involved are a small price to pay for what you get. The somewhat limited entry area provided by the roof doors is dictated not by the car’s lowness alone, but also by the extreme depth of the light, rigid, “three-dimensional” tub­ular frame. When you sit in the car your elbow rests on the door sill, which is wrapped over the top frame members. To simplify entry and exit for the driver, all 300SL’s are equipped with a steering wheel that can be folded under the steering column. Also, although the steering column is not adjustable, you can have your choice of two different column lengths.
    The doors can be locked from the outside by the con­ventional method. To open them, you press a slightly-protruding cam which exposes the door-handle. Give this an easy outward and upward tug and the door floats up to its full-open position, aided by springs that give just the correct amount of counterbalance. The door must be slammed hard to be closed and this produces a loud, jar­ring thud. On the inside door handle of every new 300SL is a somewhat disquieting notice urging that doors be locked from the inside to guard against their opening spon­taneously at high speed.
    When you’re seated in a 300SL you know you’re in. You’re practically encapsulated. You feel very much a part of the car, as you should be. Visibility is good. Straight ahead and just below eye level are a big tach and a big speedometer. There are plenty of other instruments and controls and they take some time to learn.
    [image id=’65550b84-561b-4c8e-b878-81d240a5854f’ mediaId=’81a03180-af2e-4fcb-b6a4-4b0bd2544e53′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    The first thing I noticed was the low mileage registered on the odometer—significantly below the 1000-mile break-in period recommended by the factory. But Leutge put me at ease.
    “You don’t have to worry about winding up these en­gines,” he said. “Before they’re even dropped into a car they’re run for 24 hours on a dynamometer, including six hours at peak output. Then they’re torn down, checked, reassembled, and given another eight hours of running-in. Our times may be a shade slow, but don’t be afraid to peak it in the gears.”
    The tricks of firing up a fuel-injection car are few and simple. For cold starts you pull out what corresponds to a choke and for hot starts you pull out a different button—that causes a whining, high-speed pump to go to work in the fuel tank. It not only purges vapor pockets from the fuel system when hot, but also makes available a two-gal­lon reserve fuel supply. The factory recommends that the extra pump be used continuously during high-speed oper­ation.
    This is not one of those engines the existence of which its makers have spent millions to hide. It explodes into urgent, buzzing life, idling at a busy but smooth 750 rpm and every fiber of the beast is ready to charge.
    The 300SL has positive syncromesh on all four of its forward speeds. You thrust it into first, simultaneously punch the throttle and release the clutch and, in a number of seconds only slightly greater than your reaction time, peak at 40 mph. The sensation of catapulting acceleration is unfor­gettable. Second, again with tremen­dous G’s, propels the car up to the high 60s in scant seconds more. Third is a wonderfully useful ratio with terrific dig from about 9 to 96 mph.
    [image id=’59ea245a-ab9f-45b0-8b52-f34363c4eb0a’ mediaId=’cb33d487-a8da-49d1-8abd-b8a737d3f768′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=’1956 Mercedes-Benz 300SL test – Sports Car Illustrated, April 1956, spread 1′ expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    The torque of the little 3.0-liter engine is fantastic and it’s hard to see where it all comes from until you remember that the injection system is pumping fuel into the cylinders at a constant rate that carburetors cannot match. Fourth gear, with the standard rear-axle ratio, gives smooth, continuous acceleration from 15 to 140 mph! It is thoroughly adequate for city traffic and even for pulling fairly stiff grades. For fierce acceleration and fast hill-climbing, third meets nearly all requirements. During our shakedown tests among the steep peaks and canyons of the Santa Monica mountain range, we had to resort to second cog only on the very steepest grades, and then we flew up to them. As for first gear, you should always use it when starting from a standstill. Beyond that you just keep it in reserve for pulling stumps and for competing in the Alpine Rally.
    There are tricks to driving the car. Its steering, with less than two turns from lock to lock, is definitely heavy and has a wonderful feel. The steering gear itself is of the no-backlash recirculating-ball type with hydraulic centering. The brakes are magnificent and indestructible, and they’re vacuum assisted. But they don’t lock the wheels at a touch, Detroit power-brake style. They demand some muscle power, and so do the clutch and the shift lever. In the 300SL, driving is not the near spectator sport it has largely become in this age of robotized motoring.
    [image id=’6ca77e57-704b-4625-bb28-218a7917d1f3′ mediaId=’2f054d3a-df23-4276-ae52-91299e7a70a3′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=’The 300SL has a trunk but for anything except soft goods space is a bit cramped by the spare.’ expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Minimum muscular endowment is required for the comfortable operation of the 300SL. Caution and sound judgment, however, are essential to the continuing enjoyment of this or any other high-performance car and even a small error can have very discouraging consequences. For example, I had read in both a British and an American road test that the car should be pushed through turns under power, actually steered with the throttle.
    As we approached our first tight corner I mentioned this to Leutge. “No—No!” he cried. “Do that and the rear end comes swinging around. With these pendulum axles you have to be careful. The oversteer isn’t much if you have competition springs, but with standard springs you must watch it all the time.”
    At this point I asked Leutge to demonstrate proper fast-cornering technique with the 300SL and he took the wheel. He popped his gear changes with a smart, hard style and reached his desired speed of entry into the turn. All the way around the curve he maintained neutral acceleration, just patting the throttle lightly and occasionally to keep his velocity constant. As the curve began to straighten out he stomped the throttle to the floorboards, rocketing into the straight. Further checking with men who have driven 300SL’s in competition verified this as the one-and-only technique for keeping out of trouble during high-speed cornering. With this car you do not horse around with throttle steering.
    During the very hardest cornering there is no perceptible body roll and you feel an unusual sense of security. This is added to considerably by the car’s phenomenal brakes which are fade-proof and provide uncanny stopping distances. The adjustable bucket seats give excellent support against sideways motion. There’s a remarkable absence of wind noise in this car, even at 138 mph, but otherwise it is by no means a silent servant. The auxiliary fuel pump, used constantly at high speeds, emits a nervous whine at the driver’s back. The indirect transmission gears have a loud, vintage buzz. These sounds are more or less musical to the enthusiastic ear. Less so is the peculiar, harmless clunking noise that originates in the rear axle mechanism of these cars when some, but not all, left turns are made.
    [image id=’ecd4bfec-3efc-4aa8-96d8-234284479510′ mediaId=’2975e6ea-1bf3-4368-8ea7-61c088df2482′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=’1956 Mercedes-Benz 300SL test – Sports Car Illustrated, April 1956, spread 2′ expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    The coil-spring four-wheel independent suspension gives a ride that is surprisingly soft. The cornering feel in particular is quite different from that of a fast, solid-axle machine and is hard to describe. In place of the sensation of unyielding chassis “bite” on the road there’s a softness to the 300SL’s cornering grip: You do not feel as though you’re on rails; you know damned well you’re on rubber tires. The bite is tenacious all right, but not harsh. Barreling full-bore down a straightaway, the car never feels as though it’s becoming lighter. At top speed it still squats like a stalking cat and its traction under all conditions is pretty unbeatable.
    So far, we’ve been talking about the basic 300SL “economy model” with a touring-car camshaft. With this setup the output is 220 horsepower, the engine idles at 750 rpm, and the torque characteristics are quite uniform throughout the engine rpm range. This combination makes for one of the most thrilling rides of your life. That is, until you experience a 300SL running the hot, competition cam.
    With this one modification the car acquires an entirely new character. Now it peaks at 240 horsepower—a figure incidentally, which other road tests have mistakenly associated with the standard model— and it idles at 1100 revs. In the lower engine-speed range it is slightly rougher and it neither adds to nor subtracts from the vehicle’s performance. It’s in the higher rpm’s that it makes another car of the 300SL.
    Lance Reventlow of Hollywood is the devoted owner of a 300SL with the racing cam and all the other performance options. His car has heavy-duty springs and shock absorbers, Rudge wheels, an assortment of rear-axle ratios and special racing tires. It also has one of the all-aluminum bodies that the factory has available. The light body represents a weight saving of about 350 pounds and Reventlow’s car represents an investment of well over $10,000.
    [image id=’2471cdb6-f6ca-45a0-bdbb-8b3507007f4e’ mediaId=’e20dfa57-bfd9-4733-a168-8b6c52123a28′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=’Author Griff Borgeson slide rules out some test figures. Note the seating position.’ expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Lance introduced me to the delights of this rarified form of motoring with a demonstration of the effect of the racing cam. “Watch this,” he said, as he dropped into Third at about 2000 rpm and bore down on the throttle. The tach needle rapidly climbed past 3000, then 3500. I watched and waited. Then at 3600 all hell broke loose. The car, already accelerating as few cars in the world can do, took off as though JATO units or a second engine had been cut in. Beyond 3600 the acceleration was appalling. It was like being pulled forward at fantastic speed at the end of a powerfully-drawn cable. Oddly enough, the last time I had experienced that precise sensation was at the wheel of a 7.1-liter, supercharged Type SS Mercedes-Benz built in 1930.
    Reventlow stayed on the throttle until the tach hit 5500 and the scenery was a blur. The inexorable torque stayed the same, according to the hard pressure on hips and shoulders, until he backed off. In the “mild” range again, he slowed to 15 mph, then pulled away strongly in top gear. “That’s what I mean,” he said. “It’s really two cars in one. One is a lamb and the other is a raging lion. And you can turn them off and on with a touch on the throttle. You can putter around town for a year and never call on the fierce side of the car’s dual personality. But the instant you want that real wild performance, it’s there.”
    The competition springs and shocks give this car a far firmer ride and cornering bite. The Rudge disc wheels, which cost $350 per set, add 25 pounds to the car’s weight. But they’re essential for long races in which tire-change stops are critical. This car has won both concours and races.
    One of its recent race wins was at Torrey Pines, with Bruce Kessler at the wheel. Other cars in the full entry list at Torrey could be heard for miles as they blasted around the course. The fact that the obviously competent 300SL ran a muffler and purred its way to the checkered flag without pyrotechnics impressed many spectators. M-B’s West Coast sales manager tells me that during the week that followed, 11 300SL’s were delivered to individuals who said they were sold at Torrey Pines.
    [image id=’3f7c8fb2-98e3-490a-906b-d83bcae1b7a0′ mediaId=’6f9d7e12-a0cd-481f-b096-d7cbb7e041af’ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=’1956 Mercedes-Benz 300SL – Sports Car Illustrated, April 1956, spread 3′ expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    One of the main contributing factors to the long string of 300SL racing victories is its frame, which is unlike that of any other M-B production car. The complex network of small-diameter tubes is erected in such a way that the tubes are subject to push-and-pull stresses only, and not to twisting stresses. This torsional stiffness has an all-important effect on keeping suspension geometry uniform and that, in turn, has a decisive effect on roadholding. The tubes are everywhere—above the engine and in the passenger space. The frame is made mainly by hand and its appearance in large-scale production is not likely.
    The real guts of 300SL performance, of course, lie in its engine, which is a remarkable blend of radical and conservative design features. On the conservative side are the cast-iron block, the single overhead camshaft, the NOT vee-inclined valves, the far from straight-through porting, the moderate compression ratio. This last, nominally 8.55:1, varies with the individual engine and the actual ratio is stamped on the cylinder block, just under the name plate. The compression ratio of our standard test car was 8.28:1.
    On the radical side are the offset, inclined engine mounting position, and the unusual combustion chambers which do not extend into the head at all but are contained entirely within the cylinder block. The head has a perfectly flat lower surface and immense valves for a small engine; the intakes measure 1-5/8 inches and the exhausts are 1-15/16. Most radical of all, of course, is the fuel injection system.
    The 300SL’s crankshaft is cradled in seven main bearings. The short, H-section connecting rods are ground to a smooth finish. A passage up the center of the rod carries oil to the wrist pin. The heads of the full-skirted pistons are slightly wedge-shaped and they constitute an unusually functional part of the combustion chamber. Each piston carries three compression rings and one oil ring.
    [image id=’b3b97cf4-2173-4a05-bba5-c3d911aaa9b3′ mediaId=’8fa1dadd-21d5-4711-8ada-f159b36c966d’ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    The single overhead camshaft rides in four bearings and has a large vibration damper at its forward, sprocket end. According to my factory informant, the standard 300SL camshaft is identical to that used in the Type 300S touring machine. A number of people have wondered what effect fuel injection has on valve timing. Evidently it has none.
    The lobes on the 300SL’s camshafts have a fast high lift and very sporting duration and overlap characteristics:
    Standard CompetitionInlet opens: 11° – 20°(Before top center)
    Inlet closes 53° – 58°(After bottom center)
    Exhaust opens 36° 30′ – 56°(Before bottom center)
    Exhaust closes 10° 30′ – 18°(After top center)
    Cold-engine tappet clearances are .002 ins. for the inlets and .008 for the exhausts. For an overhead-cam valvetrain, the 300SL’s is quite silent in its operation.
    A point of considerable interest to the engineering fan is the more than slight resemblance between the 300SL engine and the basic engine that powered the immortal Types K, S, SS and SSK Mercedes of the Twenties and early Thirties. Dr. Porsche designed the old single-cam six with its eerie-sounding Roots blower. The ultra-modern Mercedes six looks much the same under its cam cover. The staggered valve arrangement is the same and the cam-follower layout is almost identical. It’s also interesting that the acceleration effect that Porsche obtained with a costly and complicated supercharger has now been duplicated and surpassed by means of the 300SL’s racing camshaft.
    [image id=’c7d66376-befc-4835-b1a4-0c21e0a8d439′ mediaId=’188ac3e7-af57-455a-8481-ce96a2015588′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    With the fuel-injection system, an assembly of six small plunger pumps delivers atomized gasoline directly into the cylinders, at a pressure ranging from 568 to 682 psi. Air alone is drawn through the inlet valves and the mixture of fuel and air takes place within the cylinders. The timing and the amount of each shot of fuel is regulated automatically and precisely. Filtration of both air and fuel is far more critical than in carburetor engines.
    You might expect maintenance of the system to be extremely tricky, but it’s not. The air filter requires cleaning every 2500 miles, the fuel filter every 15,000. The fuel-feed system compensates automatically for changes in altitude and temperature. On the throttle body in the air-intake manifold, there are a couple of adjusting screws for regulating idle speed and mixture richness. They can be adjusted with a small coin. And that’s all there is to it.
    One idiosyncrasy of the system is described in the owner’s manual. “It may happen with the injection engine that after stopping the engine will turn a few backward revolutions. This does not necessarily indicate a defect. Engage a gear in this case and stop the engine by clutching.” And another precaution: to stop, “turn the ignition key to the left while idling. Do not on any account try to stop the engine at a higher speed than the idle running one.” I assume that violating this rule results in de-lubrication of the cylinder walls by powerfully-injected raw fuel.
    Checking with many 300SL owners (at this moment there are 171 who have bought cars through the West Coast distributor alone) I have been unable to find any complaints against the reliability of the injection system or, for that matter, of the car as a whole. A mechanic who specializes on 300SL’s assures me, “You just drive the car— it takes terrific abuse and gives no trouble. We used to have one chronic complaint and that was about spark plug failure. Now we recommend platinum-point plugs and have no more of that trouble.”
    [image id=’06cd10e7-b17b-4255-aa17-be1a0cc7954f’ mediaId=’177886c6-c17d-4fac-99da-8798a6832d9d’ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    When you consider what it must cost to produce each of these cars—all the handwork, expensive components, quality— it’s hard to consider the 300SL as anything but a bargain at the base price of $7463. And this includes a splendid set of tools, power brakes, hinged steering wheel, optional steering columns, clock, heater, an exhaustive maintenance manual, a parts catalog, minutely detailed instructions for the servicing of the car for its first 62,500 miles, and many other bonus items.
    Actually, you can buy the basic 300SL for $6900 at the factory in Stuttgart, Germany. Transportation cost and import duty then become your responsibility. However, if you bring the car to the U.S. within six months of purchase, the factory refunds $1300 to you, which offsets the freight and duty expenses and then some. With large parts inventories in several American cities and with an excellent, factory-supervised service organization, it’s just about impossible to duplicate what the 300SL has to offer at any price.
    [vehicle type=’specpanel’ vehicle-body-style=” vehicle-make=” vehicle-model=” vehicle-model-category=” vehicle-submodel=” vehicle-year=”][/vehicle]
    This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io More

  • in

    The 2021 Honda Ridgeline: Rugged and Ready

    Reliability and a penchant for adventure are in Honda’s DNA. With humble beginnings building motorcycles in Hamamatsu, a city in the Shizuoka Prefecture of Japan, the small company was quick to blaze a trail of innovation and automotive excellence, which became its foothold in the industry. Whether it’s dirt bikes, four-wheelers, and side-by-sides or a range of highly adaptable, street-ready cars, trucks, and SUVs, Honda continues to break barriers as it defines the future of mobility on- and off-road.
    How It Started
    In 2006, Honda debuted its first and only pickup for the North American market, the Ridgeline. To say this truck ruptured the traditional light-truck landscape is an understatement. Touting a highly unconventional design set on a unibody frame typically reserved for sedans, it was accompanied by equally distinctive C-pillar, flying buttresses that adjoined the cab. Although a radical marriage of unexpected components, it would prove to be a rival for the industry’s 4×4 heavyweights. While the Ridgeline’s preliminary exterior stylings left much to be desired, the magnitude of its ability would soon become its calling card.
    Within that inaugural model laid the inner workings of an extremely versatile utility vehicle—the industry’s first In-Bed Trunk®, nimble handling, an impressive payload, and outstanding towing capacity. By 2017, the Ridgeline retained most of its beloved features but did away with its less flattering ones. The C-pillars were eighty-sixed and instead, the structural integrity was enhanced by cueing up critical load-bearing joints in the unibody. The result: the same powerful functionality with a decidedly more truck-worthy aesthetic. That year, Ridgeline became the first pickup truck to earn IIHS’s Top Safety Pick+ and North America Truck of the Year.
    How It’s Going
    With its most recent redesign, the 2021 Ridgeline is clearly not beating around the bush. Starting at an estimated $35,500, the bolder and more robust surface area finally matches the capability planted under the hood. Thanks to a 280-horsepower, 3.5-liter, direct-injected VTEC V-6, one squeeze on the throttle introduces you to a responsive nine-speed automatic transmission that’s quick and also the most fuel-efficient in its class.
    The Ridgeline comes standard with an Intelligent Traction Management System and i-VTM4® torque-vectoring all-wheel drive, which makes it ultra-reliable in a host of unpredictable terrain or inclement weather. While most trucks are eager to strong-arm their way out of unfavorable topography, Ridgeline uses adaptive technology to out-think the road ahead. Its ability to survey paved and natural features is guided by a heap of tiny sensors that help optimize power and delivery distribution to tackle snowy or slick surfaces. With additional modes for mud and sand, up to 70 percent of the engine’s 262 pound-feet of torque is sent to the rear wheels, contingent on the circumstances.
    While Ridgeline continues to tick all the boxes, the handling and ride quality remain best-in-class. Down the roadway, it floats with a comfortable drive quality from the coil-sprung, independent rear suspension, which differs from the leaf-sprung, solid-axle setups of traditional pickup trucks. And it’s fully loaded with Honda Sensing® safety and driver-assistive technology to help keep you poised behind the wheel through hazardous forecasts and less than ideal conditions.

    Unwavering Upgrades
    The Ridgeline’s cosmetic overhaul and new, rugged stylings come courtesy of the talented team of designers and engineers at Honda R&D Americas (HRA). It’s been built out with new sheet metal from the front pillars forward, and sports an entirely new fascia: fenders, bumpers, and a squared-off nose coupled with a jawline that’s typically reserved for the brawny superhero of your favorite comic book.
    The new hood is defined by a pronounced power bulge and the more perpendicular grille is flanked by LED headlights bisected by crossbars that offer a menacing glare. Its broad side vents target airflow through the bumper and around the front tires and wheels to improve aerodynamics. With reduced backspacing, the Ridgeline accommodates a wider track, offering a broader, more planted stance that feels tougher and sturdier than ever. The all-terrain tires are fitted with a more aggressive sidewall and shoulder design while the prominent skid plates are primed to aid in maximizing protection against any type of ground it comes across.

    Turn up the dial on the Ridgeline’s powerful new physique even further by opting for the additional trim level designed in collaboration with Honda Performance Development™ (HPD™), the arm of American Honda Motor that specializes in production racing parts. A unique honeycomb-style grille treatment, black fender flares, bronze-tone wheels and HPD™ graphics create a mighty round up of complementary features, hammering away the past doubts of any naysayers questioning its original body shape.

    All Work and All Play
    The Ridgeline’s list of impressive credentials is long, but the mid-size pickup’s versatility in cargo management truly sets it apart from the rest. It has a maximum payload of 1,580 pounds with a towing capacity up to 5,000 pounds. Honda was the first to pioneer the dual-action tailgate, which is rated to handle loads up to 300 pounds. The useful functionality allows it to open downward or to the side, making it simple to load the bed with any precious cargo, bet it a couple of dual-sports or supplies for a home project. Ridgeline’s extra-wide standard bed makes it the only truck in its class that can flat carry four-by-eight-foot material between the wheel wells, and leaves a cushy amount of room along the bedsides if you’re stowing an ATV, which we discovered in our own rigorous rounds of testing.
    Ridgeline’s signature lockable, In-Bed Trunk® dates back to the first generation model and continues to be a standout feature. The trunk is made from a highly scratch- and dent-resistant composite material reinforced by glass fiber, and open to provide you with an additional 7.3 cu.-ft.of secure storage underneath the bed floor. Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, Honda offers the world’s first Truck Bed Audio System to guarantee that the good times keep rolling at every outdoor excursion you have coming down the pipeline.
    The adaptable storage capacity starts behind the cab, but it surely doesn’t end there. Inside, the Ridgeline boasts an exceedingly spacious interior with the largest cabin in its segment for passengers and gear. Behind the cockpit, the flat floor gives way to foldaway 60/40-split rear seat bottoms that make it easier than ever to house longer and taller items. The roomy insides afford enough capacity to adequately position a full size bicycle, leaving you with only little to no excuse to pack up and get away for some off-the-grid exploits.
    Uni-vision
    As a truck, Ridgeline is as multifaceted as it is prototypical. Its foundation is built on an unorthodox approach, which has allowed it to deliver creative features beyond the run-of-the-mill offerings of other mid-size trucks. Contrary to the standard offering of most competitors’ body-on-frame construction, Ridgeline’s now signature unit-body features a Honda-exclusive, Advanced Compatibility Engineering™ (ACE™) body structure, which has been a large contributing factor to its success since. This innovative underpinning is shared amongst the equivalently adept Passport and Pilot in Honda’s lineup. United with fully boxed frame members for the body sides and rear tailgate frame with truss-style inner assembly, the unibody efficiently carves out room for a cushy rear suspension which creates a leveling effect while driving to provide stability and control. Even on the roughest and uneven terrain, Ridgeline’s notable car-like drive quality offers uncompromising comfort.

    A Stalwart Pedigree
    Whilst Ridgeline shares many attributes with its crossover counterparts, it is in Honda’s motorsports legacy where we find the root of this truck’s confident and enduring energy. Soichiro Honda said, “Racing improves the breed,” so it should come as no surprise that Honda’s extracurricular activities draw parallels to its fleet of off-road ready vehicles, and help inform their overall performance and aesthetic.

    That persistent spirit of exploration and charting a path through unknown territory is a gravitational pull for Honda, which is why it returned to the challenging terrain of desert racing in 2015. Backed by HPD™, the team’s custom-built Ridgeline continues to dominate the field along its similarly spritely and aggressive cousin, the Talon. Since then, Honda teams have gone on to secure podium finishes and class victories at the grueling Baja 500 and 1000, further cementing its rugged reputation.
    The Ridgeline proves to be a resilient daily driver, an outdoor opportunist, and a sturdy workhorse outright. Above all, it’s evident that whatever life tests you with, the redesigned Honda Ridgeline stands ready to rise to any challenge.
    More From Honda

    2021 Honda Pilot

    2021 Honda Passport

    2021 Honda HR-V

    2021 Honda CR-V More

  • in

    Tested: 2021 Bugatti Chiron Sport Shatters Expectations

    From the February/March 2021 issue of Car and Driver.
    The Bugatti Chiron swims in molten torque. There’s so much pure, concentrated grunt that even at idle, the quad-turbo 16-cylinder feels like it’s trying to break free. It would rather crack the engine mounts and vaporize the calipers than stay still. This is physical force evolved into mechanical will.
    [editoriallinks id=’1e4a14d9-a097-4a07-bbd1-f64733fb7ce6′ align=’left’][/editoriallinks]
    That’s 1180 pound-feet of peak torque amid a mind-boggling 1479 horsepower—numbers so otherworldly that they are topped in insanity only by this car’s $3.3 million base and $3.7 million as-tested prices. With that much power and at that cost, this Bugatti ought to damn well be the quickest and fastest car that Car and Driver has ever tested. And it is. More or less. Sort of.
    Because not even Bugatti can afford to always have the latest Bugatti, the car we tested was a 2018 model that started life as a run-of-the-mill Chiron and was later modified to Sport-model spec. That $275,000 upsell consists of stiffer springs and anti-roll bars, lighter wheels, four exhaust tips, and carbon-fiber windshield-wiper arms.
    [pullquote align=’center’]HIGHS: Rocket-grade thrust, a cabin fit for royalty, knows when to relax.[/pullquote][image id=’ff165fa6-e483-453d-9fd2-f1f55ee8a228′ mediaId=’9fed640e-0d12-4768-8c19-ac72e5c6cb76′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    This car is not normal in any way. From afar, it’s a rocket-propelled marmoset. Hunched in profile, it’s about to spring and snag its prey. Up close, this one is gloriously finished in color-impregnated carbon fiber that looks like herringbone blueberry candy. Every stitch in the weave is perfectly aligned with its neighbors. It’s not a sports car exactly, and it sure doesn’t look like a luxury car. It’s a two-seat suborbital capsule with beyond-space-age aesthetics and nth-degree detailing. And it’s built to standards to which all automakers aspire.
    [editoriallinks id=’5045a727-fe9d-4d14-965b-385cfe9360bf’ align=’left’][/editoriallinks]
    Unlike virtually all other new cars, the Chiron doesn’t have soft-plastic bumper covers. Instead, the carbon-fiber fenders extend to and around the nose—a single sweep of seamless awesomeness. The exotic headlights contain four elements, each firing out photons the size of volleyballs. Smack a Mercedes-Maybach S-class with this prow and it may cost as much to fix the Bugatti as it would to buy that tank-like limo. In the U.S. market, the tail is protected by two rubber protrusions acting as bumpers. So Chiron owners are slightly better off backing, rather than nosing, into things.
    [image id=’46279239-9e37-4532-97ff-cb240de901a7′ mediaId=’fa18e8aa-b906-4367-8167-60e44fc67f68′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Apple CarPlay capability is neither standard nor an option, there’s no oversize screen inside, and the 300-mph speedo remains analog, which will give kids of the future something to ooh and aah at when they see a Chiron at a car show. Four elegant metallic dials flow down the narrow center console and control the cabin climate. The quilted seating surfaces are covered in leather that’s more buttery than butter. The steering wheel has polished spokes that glisten more brilliantly than sterling silver, and the rearview mirror is a delicate oval and seemingly meant only for decoration as there’s no way to really see out the back window. The Gumball Rally rule applies here: What’s behind you doesn’t matter.
    [pullquote align=’center’]LOWS: The action doesn’t start until 60 mph, can’t hide its weight in corners, fender benders cost more than a Ferrari.[/pullquote]
    The engine whirs to life and then seismically rumbles. From the outside, it sounds like the approach of an armored column; from the inside, as if you’re in a finely tuned rock polisher. After momentarily considering if your Nikes are good enough to touch the polished pedals and then pulling the somewhat indistinct shifter into drive, the Bug moves out authoritatively. It can’t defy the laws of physics, but it does impart a feeling of immortality.
    Speed is a talent even the most half-baked home-garage lunatic can achieve. Tuning for wide-open throttle is a straightforward pursuit. What’s amazing about this Bugatti is that it imitates a regular car so well. At part throttle, it putters along like, say, a Hyundai Sonata or Ford F-150. The Ricardo-made seven-speed dual-clutch transmission is programmed to keep engine speeds down when it’s not doing hero work, as if Bugatti engineers were reaching for that elusive double-digit city fuel-economy rating. So even galumphing along at 40 mph, the trans ratchets up to seventh gear and stays there, which is strange but not irritating like it is in your Hyundai. After all, with an 8.0-liter W-16 engine aboard, there’s always plenty of torque to keep the beast moving before calling on the four turbos or downshifting. There is never any barking or hesitancy from the powertrain, either; this isn’t a highly stressed race machine. And it’s not a normal production engine that’s been tasked with over-performing. It’s purebred and mission appropriate. When it’s asked to loaf, it will loaf like artisanal sourdough.
    [image id=’a47d7757-b010-4fbe-b2d4-a41f56d32378′ mediaId=’a96f4415-ed48-476d-b18e-f0936c9b7e35′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    That in mind, it’s impossible to disguise the humongous potential here. The transmission’s shifts aren’t brutal, but they’re also not smooth. We’d call them semi-harsh, as might be expected of any device designed to withstand so much power. The Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 tires are massive: 285/30ZR-20 in front and 355/25ZR-21 in back. That giant footprint and the rugged construction required for the tires to maintain their shape at the Bugatti’s claimed 261-mph top speed mean unavoidable tire noise. That it is subdued in the Chiron, particularly in light of the car’s carbon-fiber structure, is an achievement.
    When other supercars are running out of breath, the Chiron is only starting to try. Based on quarter-mile clocking, this is the quickest car C/D has tested. Using launch control, we slammed through 1320 feet in 9.4 seconds at an astonishing 158 mph, and the car pulled hard beyond 200 mph. The Chiron’s 4544-pound curb weight is a drag from a dead stop, so the 60-mph run takes a rather languid (relatively speaking) 2.4 seconds. The Porsche 918 Spyder and even something as common as a 911 Turbo S can beat that. But the Bug needs only 4.4 seconds to reach 100 mph and 15.7 seconds to reach 200. We didn’t have the runway to test the 261-mph governor, but the Chiron feels fully capable of that.
    [image id=’d7bf56cf-0afd-4b49-891c-52ec2c721284′ mediaId=’b0be8d56-3410-4cc2-8464-ff5ac627d682′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    With its incredibly stiff structure and perfectly poised suspension, the Chiron is confident at speed to the point of overwhelming arrogance. It’s impossible to test this car’s limits on anything except a long track, so on the street, it always has more to give. And give. And then it asks for more fuel. When it’s humping, the Chiron practically needs to burp after drinking so much so quickly. And while it will run California’s 91 octane, it makes only about 1200 horsepower on the stuff. On 93 or better, it makes the full 1479.
    Eventually, all things must stop. Stupendously large carbon-ceramic brake rotors at each corner haul the big Bugatti down from 70 mph in 160 feet. Proper sports cars do the same thing in 140 feet or less, but they also weigh 1000 fewer pounds.
    [image id=’8731d591-2bb7-4beb-a6ce-d3fa4440ddb3′ mediaId=’10bc0b98-063a-4ed9-a74b-b66b1f771967′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    Handling? Sure, it goes around corners. And it orbits the skidpad at 1.06 g’s with a neutral balance that will turn to power oversteer with a sneeze of the turbos. But even with the Sport’s extra starch, the Chiron’s character is more about traveling fast in a straight line. Each turn seems like an interruption to the real joy of this car, which is ingesting continents with the imperious disdain available only to those who have $3.7 million to spend on a single car. It does that spectacularly well.
    [pullquote align=’center’]VERDICT: A car that’s financially, dynamically, and cerebrally out of reach for mere mortals.[/pullquote]
    If you’re insecure enough to need ego fortification through vehicular acquisition, there are a lot of conspicuous-consumption machines that cost a lot less than this one. Many of them even have silly doors that fly into the air when opened. The Chiron buyer needs to appreciate it for the integrity of its design, the quality of its construction, and how it confidently achieves speed unlike any other vehicle on earth—and not worry that its doors open like an Accord’s.
    [image id=’174399cd-c1c6-4c31-b532-cae21ff969b9′ mediaId=’31e11f80-111c-4fe9-a37f-303ed1d89eb2′ align=’center’ size=’medium’ share=’false’ caption=” expand=” crop=’original’][/image]
    The Chiron has been around since 2016, and only now have we had a proper run with it. It’s both quick and fast, indeed. But here at C/D, we’d save up a few more dollars and hold out for one of the 30 Chiron Super Sport 300+ models with an additional 99 horsepower and a 300-mph-or-so top speed. Because, really, why compromise?
    [vehicle type=’specpanel’ vehicle-body-style=” vehicle-make=” vehicle-model=” vehicle-model-category=” vehicle-submodel=” vehicle-year=”][/vehicle]
    This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io More