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As an ATV owner, the last thing you want is to have your day’s ride canceled because your four-wheeler won’t start. To make sure that you don’t turn mechanic on a day that you wanted to spend as an ATV rider, start by choosing the right battery for your vehicle. Well begun is half done, after all.
Picking a battery to power your ATV may seem simple, but it can get increasingly tedious the deeper you dive into the products available. The market for ATV parts has grown in lockstep with the popularity of the vehicle itself. So when it comes time to look for a battery for your ATV, you will likely encounter an overwhelming variety of options. In such a situation, it helps to know how to gauge the performance of an ATV battery on paper.

What to Look for When Choosing an ATV Battery
There are a few figures that you’ll see mentioned across ATV batteries’ product pages. Before we dive into which metrics to take into consideration when buying an ATV battery, let’s first get familiar with the broad categories of products in this niche.
Type of ATV Batteries
While lead-acid batteries have been around since the beginning of motor vehicles, other technologies have grown to take their place in recent years.
Lead-Acid Batteries
Lead-acid batteries are also known as conventional batteries. That’s because this is the oldest type of battery used in ATVs. Because of their history as the biggest category of battery, they tend to be an economical option.
There are two types of Lead-acid batteries: starter batteries provide a quick delivery of power to start an ATV and then get recharged by the alternator, while deep-cycle batteries provide a more uniform output of power over time. They can be charged and discharged repeatedly without hampering battery life.
The one thing to keep in mind about conventional batteries is that they require a fair degree of maintenance. You have to make sure that the electrolyte within the battery is always at optimal levels. That means that you will need to use a level indicator or something similar to check the electrolyte levels and replenish the battery with distilled water regularly.
AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) Batteries
Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries are the modern successor to conventional ATV batteries. These are sometimes also called maintenance-free batteries. This doesn’t mean that you will never have to run maintenance checks on them. They just need it less often than conventional batteries.
When you buy an AGM battery, you may have to fill the casing up with a separately purchased acid first. This process is easy with this kind of battery since you can take the acid pack that comes with the product and empty it into the battery. Once that process is complete, you can connect the battery to charge like you would a conventional battery.
AGM batteries are usually costlier than conventional batteries. Their main advantage is an absorbent layer of glass fiber mats separating the plates. They help contain the liquid within the battery and ensure a steady output of charge. This, in turn, prolongs battery life.
Fit
The very first thing you need to make sure of is that the batteries on your shortlist actually fits your ATV. You can check the fit of each battery manually if you like. Most product pages mention the physical dimensions of the product. Simply compare the dimensions of the battery with the battery specifications of your four-wheeler, or the existing battery your four-wheeler has.
There is, however, an easier way to check for fit using an Amazon widget. The website has a tool at the top of each battery’s product page where you can enter the year your vehicle was made, the brand, and the model. If a battery doesn’t fit your vehicle, Amazon will let you know. You’ll also get a list of similar products that fit your ATV.
Voltage Rating
This is one of the easier metrics to deal with when choosing a battery for your all-terrain vehicle. Most ATVs available in America use 12-volt batteries, which is the standard for several vehicle categories in the country. Batteries rated lower than 12V will not be able to start an ATV.
The actual voltage output numbers you see will vary depending on the extent to which an ATV is charged. At full charge, you may see a voltage reading higher than 12 volts, sometimes as high as 13.5 volts.
Capacity
Another piece of information that you will see on ATV battery product pages is the amp-hour (Ah) rating. An amp-hour is the amount of charge that is transferred when a 1-ampere current is applied for an hour.
The Ah rating is indicative of the capacity of a battery. It tells you the quantity of electricity you can drain from a battery if you take it from fully charged to fully discharged. So a 12 Ah rating implies that a battery can deliver 12 amperes of current for an hour. If you load a battery with a higher current than its amp-hour rating allows, its capacity will decrease over time.
Cold-Cranking Amps (CCA)
CCA is a unit that’s used to convey the ability of deep cycle batteries to deliver power at low temperatures. Technically, CCA is a measure of the number of amperes a battery with a 12V rating can produce for 30 seconds at 0°F while maintaining an output of 7.2 volts. To put it simply, it tells you how capable a battery is of starting your ATV at low temperatures.
Starting a vehicle and maintaining its performance becomes harder as temperatures get lower. The higher a battery’s CCA rating, the better it is at handling cold weather. So keep an eye out for this piece of information if you live in a city that experiences low temperatures.
As far as the hard statistics, we’ll focus on Ah ratings and CCA as we look through the best ATV batteries on the market in 2020.

Top 9 Best ATV Batteries 2020

1. Best Overall ATV Battery: ExpertPower EXP1270

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Why we like it: The ExpertPower EXP1270 is an incredible combination of great price and dependable performance. The small size makes it easy to transport and install in your ATV.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Capacity: 7 Ah
Cold-Cranking Amps: Not listed
ExpertPower is a battery maker based out of Los Angeles that’s been around since 1978. They are known to make some of the best products in this category. The EXP1270 is an example of the quality that you can expect from their product stable.
The EXP1270 battery is a 12V battery with a capacity of 7 Ah/20 hours. It is a sealed lead-acid battery that uses AGM technology, which makes it easy to maintain. The spill-proof design ensures that the battery acid is held safely within its body. This is key for those who like to put their ATV through the wringer while off-roading, for example.
What’s also great about the ExpertPower EXP1270 for ATV owners is how easy it is to use. Installing it in your ATV is a breeze, and it takes just four hours to charge completely. The battery can also handle things like jarring vibrations and excess heat well.

Pros

Easy to transport at just 4.3 pounds
Design ensures no spillage
Universal fit type

Cons

Certain units may have a short lifespan

2. Best Budget ATV Battery: Mighty Max ML8-12

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Why we like it: There are few batteries that perform the way the Mighty Max ML8-12 can at its price point. This is the best choice for anyone looking for an affordable means to power their ATV.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Capacity: 8Ah
Cold-Cranking Amps: 200 CCA
There are a lot of factors that combine to make the Mighty Max ML8-12 among the best batteries for ATVs. The alluring price point may be the first thing that stands out. But the ML8-12 is a lot more than just a budget option.
The battery has a capacity of 8 Ah and 200 CCA. This shows it can perform dependably, even if you live in a cold part of the country. It’s also an AGM battery that’s adept at absorbing shock and vibration. Mighty Max provides a one-year warranty in case you do run into some problems with the product.
It is for all these reasons that the Mighty Max ML8-12 is among the best-reviewed ATV batteries around. If you’re looking to ride your ATV without breaking the bank, this is the battery for you.

Pros

Very affordable
200 CCA, making it perfect for cold conditions
Handles shock well

Cons

Not the best battery for heavy-duty ATV riding

3. Best Premium ATV Battery: Yuasa YUAM320BS YTX20L-BS

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Why we like it: The Yuasa YUAM320BS YTX20L-BS boasts impressive performance metrics and does so without breaking the bank.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Capacity: 18 Ah
Cold-Cranking Amps: 270 CCA
One look at the performance figures of the Yuasa YUAM320BS YTX20L-BS will give you a good idea of what makes it such a great ATV battery. With a capacity of 18 Ah and 270 CCA, this battery is sure to be the perfect accomplice to your off-roading. It’s the kind of performance that ATV owners dream of when they first buy their four-wheelers.
The Yuasa YUAM320BS YTX20L-BS uses lead-calcium technology to maintain the internal specific gravity. This means that you will have to run maintenance on this battery a lot less frequently than other ones.

Pros

Impressive performance
Easy to maintain
You don’t need to add water to the battery ever

Cons

Costly relative to the average ATV battery

4. ThrottleX ADX14AH-BS

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Why we like it: The ThrottleX ADX14AH-BS is designed to prevent sulfation, thus making it a superior alternative to batteries that suffer from the issue.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Capacity: 12 Ah
Cold-cranking amps: 220 CCA
Most ATV owners are familiar with the phenomenon of sulfation. This occurs when lead sulfate crystals build up on battery plates when it is not at full charge. Sulfation can lead to undesirable conditions like excess heat production, longer charging times, and eventually, even battery failure.
The ThrottleX ADX14AH-BS uses what the company calls Advanced Lead Calcium Technology to prevent sulfation. The lead-calcium combo prevents lead sulfate crystals from accruing on the plates. So you don’t have to deal with all the issues that come with sulfation when you use the ADX14AH-BS ATV battery.
This product from the ThrottleX stable is maintenance-free since it uses AGM technology. The 12 Ah capacity and Lead Calcium technology combine to give this battery a high degree of starting power. Getting your ATV rolling on the road will be a breeze with this battery under the hood. Looking for a similar, slightly less expensive battery? Check out the UPG UBCD5745 Sealed Lead Acid Battery.

Pros

Anti-sulfation technology
Compact design
12-month free replacement warranty

Cons

Could be hard to mount on certain ATVs

5. Weize YTX20L-BS

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Why we like it: The Weize YTX20L-BS is a powerful performer that can deal with excess heat and cold temperatures with the same ease.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Capacity: 18 Ah/10 hours
Cold-Cranking Amps: 270 CCA
The Weize YTX20L-BS is a battery that has grown in popularity among ATV owners in recent times. This is likely because the battery is easy to use and serves the performance requirements of ATVs well.
Installing the Weize YTX20L-BS in your ATV is a straight-forward process. The battery can be attached to the mount in any position. This makes it easier to get it up and running. It is designed to be resistant to vibration and shock, which is all too common for ATVs.
The durability of the battery is another reason it’s a common choice for those who own ATVs, designed for four-wheelers while other batteries are merely 12v batteries that work with ATVs. It has a wide range of operating temperatures. The battery can handle both a degree of overheating and cold temperatures. It can also recover well from deep discharges.
The battery’s cold-cranking amps rating reflects its ability to handle cold weather well. 270 CCA is plenty for those who live in places that experience harsh winters. This is an AGM battery so you can trust it to remain spill-proof even during rough rides.

Pros

Wide operating temperature range
High cold-cranking amps rating
12-month warranty

Cons

Terminal hardware can be of poor quality

6. UPG UBCD5745 Sealed Lead Acid Battery

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Why we like it: If you’re looking for a compact battery that can also deliver high output, the UPG UBCD5745 is the way to go.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Capacity: 18 Ah
Cold-Cranking Amps: Not listed
Sometimes you need a battery that can power your ATV without taking up too much space in the underbody. For those who are space restricted, the UPG UBCD5745 is a great choice. This ATV battery is more compact than some of its competition but still manages to deliver a capacity of 18 Ah. Unfortunately, with this battery there isn’t any anti-sulfation tech as with the ThrottleX ADX14AH-BS.
One thing that’s important to note about this battery is that it is a deep cycle battery. Undercharging these batteries can have an adverse effect on their lifespan. To keep that shelf life up, ensure that you give the battery enough time for the alternator to recharge the battery.

Pros

Impressive size-to-performance ratio
Capacity of 18 Ah
Spill-proof

Cons

Undercharging can reduce lifespan

7. Chrome YTX14-BS

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Why we like it: The Chrome YTX14-BS is an AGM type battery that uses a lead-calcium alloy construction, making it both durable and easy to maintain.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Capacity: 15 Ah
Cold-Cranking Amps: 200 CCA
The Chrome YTX14-BS is a battery that you may see powering motorcycles or jet skis. That gives you a sense of the kind of power this battery is capable of delivering to your ATV. ATV owners will be happy to know that it’s easy to maintain because it is an AGM battery, performing just as well in cold and warm weather as the Weize YTX20L-BS.
This ATV battery gets all the basics right. It has a 15 Ah battery, which is higher than the average figures you see from batteries in this niche. It packs a whole 200 CCA of cold-cranking amperes. So you can trust this battery with getting your ATV up and running even when it’s colder than usual.
These batteries come ready to go right out of the box. They show up fully charged, so all you need to do is go ahead and install them. The product comes with an 18-month warranty.
Some ATV owners may have issues with this battery during installation. The battery terminals may require adjustment so that they can connect with your vehicle. So make sure that this battery is compatible with your ATV, or you may have to make some modifications before you can mount it.

Pros

Relatively high capacity
Starts ATVs with ease
Works well in cold climates

Cons

Terminals may require modification

8. ZPC ZPC-YTX14-BS

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Why we like it: This battery can be recharged over 2,000 times, which means that you can use it for a long time without having to worry about replacements.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Capacity: 12 Ah
Cold-Cranking Amps: 200 CCA
There are several reasons the ZPC ZPC-YTX14-BS battery sits well with its customers. Firstly, the battery is easy to install right out of the box. It also holds its charge well even if you put it through some heavy-duty riding, although cold and hot weather performance isn’t as good as batteries like the Weize YTX20L-BS.
Perhaps the most exciting feature for ATV owners is that the ZPC ZPC-YTX14-BS battery is long-lasting in multiple ways. The construction is sturdy and resistant to vibrations. Internally, the battery is designed for a low self-discharge rate. This results in the ability to use the battery for a long time without its capacity to hold a charge decreasing.

Pros

Long shelf life
Easy to install
Low self-discharge

Cons

Terminal posts can be flimsy

9. Odyssey PC545 Powersports Battery

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Why we like it: The Odyssey PC545 is a powerful battery that can handle being taken to the limits frequently. That performance comes at a cost, but it’s well worth the money if you’re somebody who likes to go pedal to the metal often.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Capacity: 13 Ah
Cold-Cranking amps: 150 CCA
If you own an ATV, you know that experiencing its power is a thrilling feeling. The battery you choose will play a part in how much of that power you’re able to derive from the vehicle and how often. The Odyssey PC545 is the kind of battery that will support you in your quest for high performance.
This battery has a capacity of 13 Ah, which is high compared to most other batteries that you will see on the market. The high capacity is one of the reasons this battery performs as well as it does. It also has a cycle life of 40 when discharged at 80%. This cycle life is impressive considering how compact the battery is.
Recharging the battery is quick. It can go from empty to 100% in as little as four hours. The 150 CCA rating means you can trust this battery to power your vehicle in the winter. ATV owners who enjoy high-performance riding will feel right at home with the Odyssey PC545.

Pros

Great performance metrics
Impressive cycle life
Easy to use in winters

Cons

Made only for non-heated environments
Costly

Everything You Need to Know About Buying an ATV Battery
Now that we know the best of what’s out there, let’s get down to how you would make the final decision. There are a few things to take into consideration before making the purchase.
Should I Buy a Conventional Battery or AGM Battery for My ATV?
We’ve already seen how conventional and AGM batteries work. Which one you choose depends on your priorities as an ATV owner.
Lead-Acid Batteries
The main thing they have going for them is the price point. Conventional batteries are usually more affordable than AGM batteries. So if price is an important factor for you, then you’ll want to look at conventional batteries for your ATV.
The challenges that come with using conventional batteries have to do with their maintenance. You have to constantly ensure that the acid within the battery is at optimal levels. This is why these batteries come with fill lines. As long as the acid is near those lines, you’re good. But if they fall below that level often, it can affect the lifespan of the unit.
Another issue that ATV owners face with conventional batteries is spillage. This can be a problem for those who like to off-road with their ATVs.
AGM Batteries
AGM batteries address the shortcomings of conventional batteries. They’re largely maintenance-free and don’t pose the danger of spillage. So you can ride your ATV without worrying about the status of the battery when you pull back on the throttle.
Another advantage of using an AGM battery is the longer lifespan. They tend to discharge at a slower rate than conventional batteries thanks to the absorbent glass layer between the plates. This is a big plus for those who ride their ATVs only every now and then and don’t want to have to worry too much about the upkeep of the battery. It’s also a plus for those who use their ATV battery to charge accessories, such as a phone charger or heated ATV Grips.
AGM batteries take less maintenance than conventional batteries but there’s still work to be done to get them going. Some of them may require you to empty an acid back into the battery casing before you can get it started.
When it comes to cost, AGM batteries are pricier than conventional batteries. However, the benefits of using this kind of battery, especially the low maintenance required and spillage-resistance, makes it perfect for ATVs.
How Much Can I Expect to Pay for an ATV Battery?
There are three price ranges in which you will find ATV batteries on the market.
Under $50: This is the budget segment for ATV batteries. Most batteries in this segment are likely to be conventional batteries. However, as our list showed, it is possible to get a good ATV battery on a budget.
$50-$100: This mid-range is the most common for ATV batteries. Most of the popular batteries fall in this segment. It is easy to find a battery that will satisfy both your budget and performance requirements in this bracket.
Over $100: This is the premium segment for ATV batteries. These are batteries that usually have higher capacities and lifespans than the average battery. If you’re an ATV power-user who likes to test your vehicle’s limits often, then you may need to pick a battery that costs in excess of $100.
How Long Can I Expect My ATV Battery to Last?
A high-quality ATV battery will last up to five yearsost make it to the three-year mark. If your battery doesn’t, that could mean that the battery itself wasn’t made well or that it wasn’t maintained well. Outside of manufacturing quality, the shelf life of a battery depends on a few factors including:
Battery Usage
The more you use a battery, the shorter its lifespan becomes. But there are things you can do to ensure that your battery doesn’t get depleted too quickly even if you use it often. For example, you can invest in a trickle charger for periods when your battery isn’t in use. The trickle charger will ensure your battery doesn’t get discharged fully from long periods of dormancy.
Temperature
The temperature at which you store ATV batteries can have an effect on their lifespan. Both extreme heat and cold can lead to a shorter shelf life. Storing batteries at between 32°F and 80°F away from moisture can prolong their use.
Charger Quality
Cheap chargers that don’t recharge batteries adequately can negatively affect their lifespan. As much as possible, try to use the charger provided by the manufacturer.
Why Isn’t My ATV Battery Working Properly?
There are a few reasons why your ATV battery may not be working the way it should. The most common are listed below.
Low Fluid Levels
As already mentioned, the fluid in conventional batteries needs to be maintained at a particular level. So if you have a conventional battery that’s underperforming, make sure to check the fluid levels and replenish the battery if necessary.
Sulfation
We saw how the ThrottleX ADX14AH-BS is designed to prevent sulfation. However, not all ATV batteries are built this way. Some may begin to take longer to charge or die out due to sulfation. Thankfully, sulfation can be reversed by applying high-frequency electric currents to the battery.
Dysfunctional Charging System
ATVs recharge internally using what’s known as a stator. When you ride your ATV, part of the engine focuses on powering it while some of the charge is fed back into the battery to recharge it on the go. If your battery seems to be wonky, it could be because the stator isn’t functioning properly.
How Do I Know When to Replace My ATV Battery?
In the previous section, we saw a few reasons why your battery may be underperforming. In certain cases, things may be bad enough that it’s time to get a new battery. Noticing that the lights on your ATV aren’t bright or that your ATV won’t start regularly is an obvious signs something is amiss. You can then check if there is a crack on the battery casing or broken terminals to confirm that it’s a battery issue.
The surest way to know the status of your battery is by checking its voltage output using a multimeter. To do this, start by setting up the multimeter. Make sure you’re on the DC setting if you own a meter that doesn’t use auto-ranging.
If you see a multimeter reading under 12 V, then charge your battery and do another reading. If the meter still reads under 12 V, chances are your battery is damaged or worn out and needs replacing.
Wrapping Up
Now that you know what to look for in an ATV battery and how to maintain it, you’re better positioned to make a good purchasing decision. If you’re looking for more help with buying parts for your ATV, check out our guide on the best ATV tires to buy in 2020. More

The power steering in your car relies on a type of hydraulic fluid, known as power steering fluid, to operate. This is an essential element that transmits pressure using hydraulic or electric actuators to where it is needed. This ensures that the power steering works effectively and smoothly, and it also lubricates all of the components that are involved.
To maintain your vehicle, you should check the power steering fluid condition and levels every year or two. If the levels are low, you’ll have a lot of difficulties steering, which can lead to dangerous situations.

How to Choose the Best Power Steering Fluid
Choosing the best power steering fluid isn’t as easy as it sounds. You need to look for something that is both compatible with the make of your vehicle and able to do a great job at lubricating and protecting the power steering system. We’ve broken down all of our recommendations based on these two factors. Let’s take a look at what these factors mean.
Compatibility
Each power steering fluid is designed for a specific range of vehicles. Some power steering fluids are great for all Asian makes, like Toyota and Honda, while others are more compatible with European cars.
Most newer vehicles use synthetic-based hydraulic fluids because they work well in both low and hot temperatures. They also do a great job of improving pump lubrication and longevity. In general, European and Japanese vehicles have unique requirements for the type of power steering fluid that can be used. Some factors that you’ll need to consider are whether the power steering fluid is mineral-based or synthetic, and its viscosity index.
To check what type of power steering fluid your vehicle needs, check under the hood, and look for the power steering fluid reservoir. The reservoir is usually made of either clear, black or white plastic and has an identifying cap. The cap or the reservoir should have the information that you need.
If you can’t find the reservoir, find the power steering pump and follow the large rubber line. That’s the low-pressure line, and it’ll lead you from the pump to the reservoir where you’ll find the information you’re looking for. Some vehicles may require special additives in the fluid. You can also find this information in the owner’s manual for your vehicle.
Performance
To fully understand whether a power steering fluid has performance, you must first understand what it’s supposed to do in the first place. In general, you can expect all power steering fluids to be able to do the following:
Lubricate the pumps, valves, and all other parts involved with the power steering. This lubrication will protect the components against friction, which can cause premature wear and tear and reduce the overall lifespan of the power steering system.
Maintain a clean system and equipment by preventing the formation of sludge. This will ensure optimal performance throughout the use of the vehicle.
Cool the power steering system when it heats up. Basically, all power steering fluids should withstand high temperatures.
In this section, we will look at whether the power steering fluid can do anything extra. This includes protecting the hoses and seals or operating in cold temperatures.
Other Applications
This is a bonus. Some power steering fluids can be used as transmission fluid, brake fluid, and more. If you can find a product with multiple uses, you could easily save some space in your garage. Make sure to always check your owner’s manual for compatibility uses when it comes to other applications.

Top 10 Best Power Steering Fluids 2020

1. Best Overall Pick: Lubegard 23232 Complete Synthetic Power Steering Fluid

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Why we like it: This power steering fluid has universal compatibility with all makes and can improve the overall performance and longevity of the power steering.
Editor’s Rating:

Volume: 32 fluid ounces
Overview
This completely synthetic power steering fluid is one of the best synthetic options, as it does a great job at reducing friction within the power steering system and will extend its overall life. It offers unique anti-wear protection that outperforms OEM power steering fluids by leaving fewer wear scars. The lower the scarring, the better the power steering fluid is able to protect against wear and damage from daily driving.
Compatibility
This power steering fluid is suitable for all North American, European and Asian manufactured cars. Some of the applications that it’s suitable for include Dexron II ATF, Hyundai PSF-4, Kia-PSF-IV, Mitsubishi PS Fluid, Nissan Fluid A, Ford Type F, ATF Type G and Mazda ATF M-V. This power steering fluid is likely to work for your vehicle regardless of what make it is.
Performance
When it comes to performance, this is where the Lubegard 23232 Complete Synthetic Power Steering Fluid really shines. This power steering fluid works in both extremely high and low temperatures and has exceptional viscosity stability at both extremely high and low temperatures (-41℉ to 130℉) as well, with improved performance at low temperatures.
This superior power steering formula not only reduces friction but acts as a potent rust and corrosion protective agent. The patented technology can protect seals and hoses by reducing the risk of leaks and prolonging the life of all parts within the power steering system. It can also eradicate rack and pinion stiffness, eliminate power steering noises and whines and can clean sticky turbines and pumps.
Other Applications
This power steering fluid is suitable for use in almost all modern automotive hydraulic systems that require high performance, synthetic hydraulic fluids. It can be used in shock absorbers, level control systems, traction control systems and electro-hydraulic convertible top mechanisms.

Pros

Universal compatibility
Protects against both low and high temperatures
Improves overall performance and longevity
Reduces friction for better power steering

Cons

More expensive than some other universal power steering fluids on the market

2. Best Budget Pick: Prestone AS261 Power Steering Fluid

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Why we like it: This power steering fluid is super affordable and has anti-wear agents that will protect pump components.
Editor’s Rating:

Volume: 32 fluid ounces
Overview
The Prestone AS261 Power Steering Fluid is one of the more affordable options out there. It prevents abnormal wear and tear by reducing friction within the power steering system and enhances the overall durability and longevity of the parts. Use this power steering fluid for a smoother operation.
Compatibility
Unlike the Lubegard 23232 Complete Synthetic Power Steering Fluid, which offers universal compatibility, the Prestone AS261 Power Steering Fluid is designed for GM, Ford and Chrysler vehicles. It can also work well on most foreign cars and small trucks. It meets the requirements of all of these car manufacturers, so this fluid won’t void your warranty.
Despite being made by a third-party vendor, it is compatible with many factory fluids, so a flush is not always necessary, and you can simply top up your power steering system with this fluid.
Performance
This power steering fluid was formulated to help protect modern power steering systems against pump breakdown and squeals caused by foaming, oxidation and wear. It works with both high and low mileage vehicles and pours even at sub-zero temperatures.
The formula contains anti-wear agents that extend the lifespan of the power steering system and it comes with seal conditioners that can prevent leakages from happening again. Despite being a budget option, this power steering fluid has a lot to offer!
Other Applications
Unlike the Pentosin CHF 11S Synthetic Hydraulic Fluid, this product can only be used as a power steering fluid.

Pros

Contains anti-wear agents that will protect all pump components
Prevents abnormal wear
Maintains a smooth power steering operation
Stops squealing

Cons

Not an ideal choice for Asian manufactured cars

3. Best Premium Pick: Pentosin CHF 11S Synthetic Hydraulic Fluid

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Why we like it: If you’re looking for a multi-purpose hydraulic fluid that can get everything done, this is it! It’s also compatible with many car makes.
Editor’s Rating:

Volume: 33.8 fluid ounces
Overview
If you’re looking for a premium product that has a lot to offer, you can’t go wrong with the Pentosin CHF 11S Synthetic Hydraulic Fluid. Although this product is a bit pricier than other power steering fluids out there at the moment, it can be used for many other purposes. This is a high-performance synthetic fluid that will protect multiple systems.
Compatibility
This power steering fluid doesn’t have universal compatibility, but it is compatible with many car makes, like Audi, Bentley, BMW, Chrysler, Dodge, Ford, Jeep, Mercedes-Benz, Mini Cooper, Porsche, Saab, Volkswagen, and Volvo. It’s not as compatible with Asian manufactured vehicles, like Honda.
Performance
This synthetic high-performance hydraulic fluid can be used in extreme weather conditions from -40℉ to 266℉. It prolongs the life of multiple components of different systems, and the fluid itself has a relatively long life, so it can last for much longer than other brands. It protects the car from oxidation and corrosion and will greatly enhance the power steering performance.
Other Applications
This power steering fluid is a hydraulic fluid designed for any automotive hydraulics with high technical requirements. Other than in the power steering, it can also be used in the level control, shock absorber, hydro-pneumatic suspension, central lock systems and hydraulics for convertible tops. This fluid can be used for stability and traction control. One can is able to replace all of the hydraulic fluids that your car may ever need.

Pros

Multi-purpose hydraulic fluid
Suitable for extreme weather conditions from -40℉ to 266℉
Suitable for a wide range of vehicles
High-performance synthetic fluid
Prolongs the life of various systems

Cons

Pricey
Not usually compatible with Asian manufactured vehicles

4. Best for Honda: Honda 08206-9002PE Power Steering Fluid

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Why we like it: This power steering fluid is formulated specifically for Honda vehicles and will protect and lubricate the entire power steering system.
Editor’s Rating:

Volume: 12 fluid ounces x 3
Overview
If you don’t want to risk voiding any warranty and want to make sure that the power steering fluid is compatible with your Honda, you should go with this genuine OEM fluid. This product comes in a pack of 3 and is recommended by Honda for all Honda vehicles.
Compatibility
This is a genuine Honda OEM fluid that will lubricate and reduce the friction in power steering systems of all Honda vehicles. Other power steering fluids may damage Honda vehicles, so this is the perfect choice for you if you have a Honda. You will need 3 bottles of this power steering fluid if you plan on flushing the entire system.
Performance
This power steering fluid will protect the seals and will lubricate the entire system to improve overall steering. It also transmits pressure within the system to get rid of any whining or squealing sounds. Using this power steering fluid will lengthen the life of power steering systems in Honda vehicles.
Other Applications
This product is recommended for use only as a power steering fluid. It should not be used for anything else.

Pros

Genuine Honda OEM fluid
Protects the power steering system
Transmits pressure to get rid of whining and squealing sounds
Improves steering

Cons

Only compatible with Honda vehicles

5. Best for Ford: Ford Motorcraft Mercon-V Automatic Transmission and Power Steering Fluid

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Why we like it: The Mercon-V power steering fluid designed by Ford is a genuine OEM fluid that has great lubricating properties. It’ll improve the power steering system’s performance significantly.
Editor’s Rating:

Volume: 32 fluid ounces
Overview
This is a unique power steering fluid formulated by Ford. Ford introduced Mercon and Mercon-V fluids in 1987. The Mercon-V is the most common Ford automatic transmission fluid (ATF), but it shouldn’t be used for transmissions that require Ford Type F fluids.
Mercon-V is a bit different from Mercon, as it contains an additive that is suitable for use in vehicles with older seals. It’s formula also has additional friction modifiers that make it more slippery than Mercon, so it’s able to do a better job at lubricating newer systems.
This is a fully synthetic ATF and it shouldn’t be mixed with any Mercon or Valvoline power steering fluids. If your car has those fluids, you’ll need to do a full flush rather than just top the power steering fluid up in the reservoir.
Compatibility
Much like how the Honda 08206-9002PE Power Steering Fluid is designed specifically for Honda cars, the Ford Motorcraft Mercon-V Automatic Transmission and Power Steering Fluid is formulated specifically for Ford, Mercury and Lincoln cars.
Performance
This premium hydraulic fluid is a hydro-processed base oil that has a high viscosity index. It contains performance additives that make it resistant to oxidation, corrosion, rust, deposits and daily wear. It’s a unique red color, so it’s easy to detect leaks. It can also guard against transmission shudder and be used in both low and high-temperature settings. The agents inside this fluid prevent sludge, foam and gum from forming, so the steering system turns smoothly even with age.
Other Applications
This hydraulic fluid can be used as both an automatic transmission fluid and a power steering fluid, so one bottle can do a lot of different types of maintenance for your Ford vehicles.

Pros

Genuine Ford OEM fluid
Contains a lot of performance additives
Can be used in both low and high temperatures
Prevents the formation of sludge, foam and gum
Offers wear protection

Cons

Only suitable for Ford, Mercury and Lincoln cars

6. Best for Nissan: Genuine Nissan Fluid 999MP-AG000P Power Steering Fluid

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Why we like it: This is a genuine Nissan OEM fluid. It’s a bit pricey, but it’s high in quality and will prolong the life of the power steering system.
Editor’s Rating:

Volume: 32 fluid ounces
Overview
A lot of people prefer using OEM fluids. This Genuine Nissan Fluid 999MP-AG000P Power Steering Fluid is formulated specifically for Nissan vehicles although it can be used in other makes as well. This power steering fluid does a great job of lubricating and reducing the amount of friction within the power steering system. While this product is great for Nissan vehicles, it is a bit pricey in comparison to other power steering fluids on the market
Compatibility
This power steering fluid is formulated specifically for Nissan cars, but it can also be used in most European and American manufactured vehicles. As this is a Nissan OEM fluid and is the exact OEM fluid that comes in all Nissan vehicles, it will not void the manufacturer’s warranty.
Performance
This specialty formula can prolong the life of both conventional and’ rack and pinion’ steering systems and improve their overall performance and longevity. It contains detergents and stabilizer additives that reduce bearing and rack and valve wear. It can also prevent seals from shrinking and hardening.
Other Applications
This power steering fluid is not recommended for any other applications.

Pros

Genuine Nissan OEM fluid
Formulated specifically for Nissan vehicles, but also compatible with domestic and foreign cars
Can improve the overall performance and longevity of both conventional and’ rack and pinion’ steering systems
Prevents seals from shrinking and hardening
Contains stabilizer additives to protect against daily wear

Cons

A bit pricey

7. Best Leak Protection: Lucas 10008 Power Steering Stop Leak

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Why we like it: This high-performance power steering fluid comes with a money back guarantee if it can’t stop the leaks in their tracks!
Editor’s Rating:

Volume: 32 fluid ounces
Overview
Unlike products like the Pentosin CHF 11S Synthetic Hydraulic Fluid, which comes in a jug, this power steering fluid comes with a sharp tip that makes it easy to pour so you can easily avoid spillages. This power steering fluid does a great job of reducing friction.
Compatibility
This is a universal power steering fluid that can be used with many vehicle makes. You can pour it into the power steering reservoir by itself, although most experts recommend flushing the system first to avoid mixing different fluids and oils together.
Performance
This power steering fluid can also eliminate squeals, slack, hard spots and tight steering. It’s guaranteed to stop seal leaks, if it doesn’t, you’ll get your money back! The unique formula can also condition O-rings and stop ‘rack and pinion’ steering problems from emerging in the first place.
The blend of special oils, petroleum, and additives will reduce friction and stiffness in the system and reduce the effects of daily wear and tear, which will maximize the life of the entire system. It’s also highly recommended for high-performance situations, as it can stop fading and foaming problems in their tracks!
Other Applications
This power steering fluid is not recommended for any other applications.

Pros

Universal fluid
Guaranteed to stop leaks
Reduces stiffness and friction
Prevents wear and tear
Conditions O-rings

Cons

Should avoid mixing with other fluids whenever possible

8. Idemitsu Universal Power Steering Fluid for Asian Vehicles

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Why we like it: This power steering system is designed for Asian manufactured vehicles and has many unique technologies that protect and improve the power steering system.
Editor’s Rating:

Volume: 12 fluid ounces
Overview
If you own an Asian manufactured vehicle, you should consider the Idemitsu Universal Power Steering Fluid for Asian Vehicles. It’s made from premium quality base oils and contains some of the latest additive technologies. This is a very budget-friendly choice, and one bottle will usually be enough to fill up an entire reservoir.
Compatibility
This premium OE power steering fluid is formulated specifically for use in Honda, Acura, Hyundai, Isuzu, Infiniti, Lexus, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Scion, Subaru, Suzuki, and Toyota vehicles. It can also be used in other Asian manufactured vehicles that do not use electronic power steering systems.
Performance
This power steering fluid is made with an advanced formula that protects the entire power steering system and enhances its performance and longevity even under the most severe operating conditions. It has unique friction technology that lubricates the system and ensures a noise-free operation and a robust anti-wear technology that increases fluid durability and life.
This power steering fluid is made from premium quality base oils with the latest additive technologies that are compatible with seals, gaskets and other internal components. This fluid can reduce the potential for leaks and lead to smoother steering performance.
This product can be used in low and high temperatures and has a superior low-temperature performance. It can also protect against pump cavitation.
Other Applications
This power steering fluid is not recommended for any other applications.

Pros

Unique friction technology lubricates system for efficient and quiet operation
Provides outstanding protection to the entire power steering system
Offers superior low-temperature performance
Protects against pump cavitation
Possesses anti-wear technology that improves fluid durability and life

Cons

Only compatible with Asian manufactured vehicles

9. Royal Purple MAX EZ Power Steering Fluid

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Why we like it: This advanced power steering fluid contains Proprietary Synerlec additive technology and will improve the life and performance of all power steering units.
Editor’s Rating:

Volume: 12 fluid ounces
Overview
The Royal Purple Max EZ is an affordable third-party fluid that will get the job done. It lubricates and rejuvenates the power steering system and will maximize its life. Another interesting thing about this power steering fluid is that it has a prolonged drain period, so it’s extremely cost-effective.
Compatibility
This synthetic oil power steering fluid is compatible with any OEM hydraulic power steering system and is touted as having the ability to outperform many other OEM and third-party fluids. With that said, this fluid works better on synthetic pumps than non-synthetic pumps.
Performance
On top of extending the pump and fluid life, this high-performance power steering fluid is a conditioner that will rejuvenate the seals in the system without causing them to harden. The formula contains Proprietary Synerlec additive technology, which strengthens the oil so that it can provide extra protection and a higher performance.
This technology also protects metal parts and components from scuffing or scoring. In fact, this power steering fluid has a film strength that is up to 400% stronger than other synthetics on the market, so it can greatly reduce the effects of daily wear and extend the life of the equipment. When it comes to lubrication, this power fluid can reduce friction by up to 78.7% when compared with conventional lubricants.
There are thermal additives that can help your system run cooler and ensure that your power steering runs quietly and efficiently.
There are many other additives in the formula. These additives can also prevent sludge from forming, so your system stays clean and hygienic. The non-foaming formula prevents rust formation and is also resistant to corrosion caused by acids.
Other Applications
This power steering fluid is not recommended for any other applications.

Pros

Compatible with a wide range of makes
Can be mixed with conventional fluids without resulting in any damage
Extends the pump’s life
Offers corrosion and rust protection
Uses Proprietary Syneriac additive technology

Cons

Not an ideal choice for non-synthetic pumps

10. Johnsen’s 4611 Power Steering Fluid

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Why we like it: This high-quality power steering fluid and conditioner prevents seals from hardening and will mix with most factory fluids.
Editor’s Rating:

Volume: 128 fluid ounces
Overview
Made by the Technical Chemical Company, this power steering fluid contains a lot of innovative technologies and some of the latest additive technologies. You get a lot of product for the price. It’s enough to not only top up the reservoir, but also flush the entire power steering system.
Compatibility
This is another popular choice because it is a high-quality product that is suitable for use in most vehicles, and can be mixed with most factory fluids. This is a huge advantage, as you won’t have to flush the entire system in order to get rid of any remaining fluids that may still be in the system. This allows you to make a quick fluid change, so you can get back on the road as soon as possible, as flushing the system can take some time.
Performance
The formula is made with high-quality oils and plasticizers that lubricate the entire system, prevent the seals from hardening, stop the pumps from squealing and protect the power steering system from unusual wear. It’s also non-foaming and non-corrosive. The top-class additives ensure that the steering unit turns freely with ease.
Other Applications
This power steering fluid is not recommended for any other applications.

Pros

Great for those on a budget
Conditions seals to prevent premature wear
Stops slipping
Prevents unusual wear
Can be mixed with other factory fluids

Cons

Need to take caution when pouring because it comes in a huge jug

A Complete Guide to Power Steering Fluid

There are many people who don’t know what to look for when buying power steering fluid. They either think they’re all the same or mistake them for any hydraulic fluid or even automatic transmission fluid. There are so many factors that you need to consider. Other than the compatibility of the fluid and whether it offers any performance, consider the other factors below.
The Difference Between Hydraulic and Electric Power Steering
The two main types of systems involved with power steering are hydraulic and electric. Hydraulic systems rely on an actuator, and the hydraulic cylinder is part of the servo system. There is a mechanical link between the steering wheel and the components and parts that steer the vehicle’s wheels. These systems may be more popular than electric systems because the vehicle can still be steered manually even if the power steering system fails.
Electric systems, on the other hand, rely on electric motors rather than actuators. There are sensors that detect the position and torque of the steering system, and these readings are sent to a computer module within the dashboard, which then regulates and controls the power steering column and motor.
Mineral-Based vs. Synthetic Fluids
Mineral-based fluid, also known as convention fluid, is the most traditional type of power steering fluid and comes from crude oil. This type of fluid is mainly used for older vehicles. It tends to be less expensive and is typically compatible with many systems.
Synthetic power steering fluids, on the other hand, do not come from crude oil but are formulated from natural gas and other base materials like polyalphaolefins. Unlike mineral-based oils, synthetic oils tend to be more consistent, so they have more predictable life cycles and more consistent fluid properties.
These types of fluids tend to have an increased viscosity index and will typically last longer. They are able to better handle the rigors of operation without degrading or oxidizing as rapidly as mineral-based fluids. Synthetic fluids also tend to do better in low temperature environments and have lower pour points.
OEM vs. Third-Party Products
Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) certified fluids are made by the same manufacturer as your car. These products are designed specifically to be compatible with a certain make. For example, the Honda 08206-9002PE Power Steering Fluid is designed specifically for all Honda vehicles, like Civics, Accords and Pilots.
When you use an OEM-certified power steering fluid, you know that you’re topping up the fluids in your system with the same type.
There are some third-party fluids as well, like the Royal Purple MAX EZ Power Steering Fluid, which is compatible with basically all makes. Some other third-party power steering fluids, like the Idemitsu Universal Power Steering Fluid for Asian Vehicles is designed specifically for Asian makes, like Honda, Toyota and Lexus.
While these power steering fluids tend to be less expensive, you also run the risk of using a product that may not necessarily be the best for your vehicle. This is why it’s important to be extra careful when purchasing third-party products.
How to Change Power Steering Fluid
[embedded content]Take a look at the video above for a video walkthrough on how to change the power steering fluid in your car. This process is the same regardless of whether you drive a truck or a sports car. We’ve also noted the steps down below, so you can go through it in more detail.
Step #1. Look for the Power Steering Reservoir Cylinder
The first step is to look for the reservoir cylinder. It’s usually near the power steering pump and made of either plastic or metal. It is almost always clearly labeled.
Once you find the power steering pump, follow the large rubber line attached and it’ll lead you to the reservoir. The reservoir is located in the same place in most cars, although some newer vehicles may place the reservoir somewhere else in order to save space. If you still can’t find the reservoir cylinder, check your owner’s manual!
Step #2. Check the Power Steering Fluid Level and Condition
If the reservoir is made of clear plastic, you might be able to see how much fluid is inside; if not, you’ll probably need to use a dipstick that’s attached to the cap. To use a dipstick, wipe off any excess fluid that may be on the stick before sticking it into the reservoir again and pulling it out. This will give you an accurate measurement of where the fluid reaches.
On some cars, you’ll find two different measurements on the dipstick: “hot” is for when the engine is running and “cold” is for when the engine has been off for some time. Some dipsticks will also have “min” and “max” lines to give you a range of where the fluid level should be.
It’s also important to examine the color of the power steering fluid. Ideally, the fluid should either be clear, amber or pink. If the fluid is brown or black, it means that it contains contaminants, like bits of rubber from the connecting hoses. You should take your car for servicing if this is the case. If the fluid is contaminated, you’ll likely need to flush the power steering system.
Step #3. Top Up the Reservoir to the Correct Fill Level
If the fluid looks fine, simply top up the reservoir to the correct fill level. Make sure that you use a fluid that is compatible with your car and be careful not to overfill the system. In fact, most experts would probably say that it’s better to underfill than to overfill the system, as power steering fluid expands as it heats up. If you overfill the system, the expansion causes pressure to build up within the system, and this can lead to some fairly expensive repairs.
Step #4. Replace the Cylinder Cap
Don’t forget to replace the cylinder cap and push or screw it into place. It’s a common rookie mistake to forget about it altogether! Always double-check to make sure that the cap is firmly attached before you close the hood.
Step #5. Turn on the Engine
After everything is done, start the engine and turn the steering wheel as far as it can go to the left and to the right. You might want to do this a couple of times. It will work out any air that may still be trapped in the system.
Frequently Asked Questions
If you’re not a car fanatic or if you don’t usually do any car maintenance yourself, you may be at a loss as to when you need to refill the power steering fluid of your car. We’ll look at some of the most frequently asked questions below.
How Do I Know Whether the Power Steering Fluid is Low?
If you’re simply leasing a car, you likely won’t have to change the power steering fluid during the entire term of your lease, as these fluids typically last a long time. However, if you own an older vehicle, changing the power steering fluid is something that you should definitely add to your to-do list. You’ll see a huge difference when trying to steer your car.
It’s not difficult to tell whether the power steering fluid is low or needs to be changed. The most obvious signs are:
Difficulties steering. This is perhaps the most obvious sign that your power steering fluid is low. You may notice that you can’t turn the steering wheel as easily. You’ll feel some type of resistance. This is because there’s not enough fluid to facilitate the movement of all of the components inside. Difficulties steering can also mean that there’s a leak somewhere. You’ll want to check the hose that’s attached to the power steering column for any fluids. If there is a leak, replacing the fluid will only be a short-term fix.
Squealing or whining noises whenever you try to turn the steering wheel. Both electric and hydraulic power steering systems rely on pumps. If there isn’t enough fluid inside the system, air will get trapped in different places and cause the entire system to make some weird noises and sounds whenever you try to turn the steering wheel. Topping up the fluid reservoir with some power steering fluid should make the noises go away immediately.
Vibrating and jerky steering. If your steering wheel ever starts to vibrate when you’re driving, you’re going to have difficulties controlling the vehicle. This is also a sign that the power steering is low in fluid. This is the same if the power steering jerks to the left or the right for seemingly no reason.
No fluid inside the column. If you take off the cap and see no fluids inside the column, then you need to top it up!
If you notice any of the signs above, take a look at the condition and level of the power steering fluid. You definitely want to take care of this problem sooner rather than later, as it will only worsen and exacerbate with time.
How Often Should You Change the Power Steering Fluid?
It’s not necessary to change the power steering fluid often. It doesn’t wear down or get dirty too easily. Most experts recommend checking or replacing the power steering fluid every 5 years or every 50,000 miles, whichever comes first. Replacing the power steering fluid can help lengthen the power steering system’s life and prevent costly repairs in the future.
Can You Use Transmission Fluid as Power Steering Fluid?
This is a common question that comes up time and time again.
Both automatic transmission fluids (ATFs) and power steering fluids (PSFs) are hydraulic fluids; however, they’re responsible for very different jobs. ATFs are typically red in color and have a distinct sweet smell. On the other hand, PSFs are usually clear, amber or pinkish in color and smell more like burnt marshmallows.
Other than being different in appearance, these hydraulic fluids also contain very different chemicals. ATFs contain detergents and friction modifiers that filter grease and dirt and prevent excessive heat buildup in the valves. PSFs do a completely different job. The chemical components lubricate and reduce friction between the various parts within the steering system and provide hydraulic pressure.
Because these two fluids do completely different jobs, it’s not a good idea to interchange the two. Using the wrong type of fluid frequently can damage both systems. As ATFs tend to be more sticky and gluey, they actually enhance friction between the components within the power steering system. In the long run, this can lead to irreparable damage to the seals of the pump and the gearbox. Using a PSF that’s approved for your car is the best way to prevent premature and unnecessary wear and tear.
With that said, there are some hydraulic fluids, like the Pentosin CHF 11S Synthetic Hydraulic Fluid, that can double up as both a power steering fluid and an automatic transmission fluid.
Can I Mix Power Steering Fluids from Different Brands?
In general, the answer to this question is a resounding yes.
Most power steering fluids are compatible with other power steering fluids, and you can easily combine synthetic-based ones with mineral-based ones without seeing a huge effect on your vehicle. Some manufacturers, however, will require that you use a specific type of power steering fluid in your vehicle.
While mixing different fluids together may not necessarily damage your car, it may affect the individual performance of the fluids, so do keep that in mind! Most mechanics recommend flushing your system when changing from one power steering fluid to another. It’ll ensure a better performance!
Will the Use of a Particular Power Steering Fluid Void My Warranty?
Some people are hesitant to use third-party fluids rather than OEM as they are afraid that it will void their warranty. Luckily, most power steering fluids meet the warranty requirements established by most car manufacturers, so this isn’t something that you should necessarily worry about.
Ask a Professional if You’re Not Sure
At the end of the day, you should ask a professional if you’re not sure which power steering fluid to use. It’s always better to be safe than sorry. Finding the right power steering fluid can take some work. You’ll need to read up on the manufacturer’s requirements and take a look at what each product can do. The right power steering wheel can make a huge difference to the overall performance of the steering and the longevity of your vehicle. More

Changing oil is a pain. It’s messy; the little drain pans always leak, and no matter how hard you try, somehow oil ends up covering you head to toe. That might be an exaggeration, or at least we hope it is, but it is true that oil changes are often messy. An oil extractor changes all that. Instead of crawling under the car, you pull the oil out of the top into a super convenient self-contained unit. It’s really awesome.
Keep reading for our top oil extractor picks for 2020

Choosing the Best Oil Extractor
Fluid extractors come in a lot of shapes and sizes. Don’t worry, though, choosing the right one for you is actually really straightforward. We’ll prime you with some quick notes to allow you to get set up with the perfect extractor. Then we’ll review our top picks for you to choose from and make it even easier to find one that fits your needs.
Finally, we will cap it off with a bunch of relevant info on using your new extractor to keep your car healthy. First things first, why would you even use an extractor over the traditional drain and pray method?
The Key Considerations When Buying an Extractor
Now that you are convinced you need one, there are some things you have to consider in order to choose the best one for your situation.
Airpower, Hand Power, or Electric
Most extractors are powered by good old fashioned elbow grease. They have a hand pump that pulls air out of a container to create a vacuum. Some extractors, like the LiquiVac model we recommend, take a lot of pumps to charge up. Others like the Mityvac, take very little work because its hand pump is gigantic.
If you don’t feel like adding a workout into your oil change, consider options that utilize airpower or electricity. Electric pumps, like the one found on the Jabsco on our list, have clamps that hook to a car battery. Extractors that are air-powered need an air compressor and a hose. They use a venturi to draw a vacuum in the vessel, just like a hand pump. Most air-powered units, like the OEM TOOLS fluid extractor in the reviews, are also hand-powered to keep them convenient.
The Reservoir Size
Extractors come in thimble-sized, like the Briggs & Stratton here, to gigantic, like the Mityvac. You don’t want to have to stop and empty the container in the middle of a change, so pick one that can fit the amount of oil your engine holds. Some don’t have reservoirs at all, which means you’ll have to supply your own.
Ease of Use
There are a lot of little features that make using an extractor easier. Safety valves can keep the unit from overflowing and making a mess. Removable pumps can make storing a unit easier, and container shape can dictate how easy it is to pour the oil out after you’re done.
Cost
While cost can’t be your only consideration, we know it’s always a consideration. Generally, you’ll have to pay more for convenience. Faster, larger units cost more, whereas smaller or harder to use units cost less. If cost is a big consideration for you, just be prepared to put in the extra work.
Our goal with this top 10 list is to give you a variety of styles to choose from so you can quickly narrow down the perfect unit for your shop.
The options range from the ridiculously cheap but hard to use Koehler to the giant, fancy Mityvac. If you don’t want to think about it too hard though, don’t even bother with the list. Grab the Topsider, it’ll outlast your car, holds enough to drain a big motor, and doesn’t require anything but your biceps to use.

Top 10 Best Oil Extractors 2020

1. Best Overall Pick: Mityvac Fluid Evacuator Plus

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Why we like it: With a capacity of over 8qts, it has the capacity for any job in your garage. The giant hand pump or optional airpower will mean you can change the oil in anything fast.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Powered by: Hand pump or air compressor
Capacity: 8.8qts
Speed: 10-15 minutes for an average engine
What Makes It Good?
This thing is the Cadillac of extractors. First, it holds 8.8qts, so you can drain the oil out of your big block Cadillac. Second, if you don’t feel like using the hand pump, you can just hook the thing to an air compressor instead.
If you do decide to use the hand pump, though, it’s one of the best on the list. You only need about ten good pumps to create enough vacuum to pull out the oil from an average engine. That really cuts down on the total time. The hand pump is also really well built, the whole unit is. Even though it has plastic parts, the plastic is thick, and the separate components come apart quickly for cleaning.
It also has special safety features like overflow protection. Only a few other units on this list have that. Notably, the OEM we mention here. That is super nice if you just want to hook it up to the dipstick tube and get lunch while draining.
What Could Be Better?
The first thing you’ll notice is the size. It’s a bit big and awkward. It’s definitely not an easy unit to lug around with you. That extra size also makes it more difficult to empty than something like the LiquiVac on this list. You could set the extractor to reverse and spray the contents out instead of pouring, but that can be messy and take a lot of time.
It costs a bit more than comparable units too. Those Caddy features come at Caddy prices. If you do a lot of fluids work, it’s totally worth it, but if you just want to change your oil every so often, a cheaper option like the Topsider will suit you just fine.

Pros

Large reservoir
Hand or air powered
The hand pump builds pressure quickly, no sore arms
Pulls out fluid very quickly

Cons

Takes up a lot of space
More expensive than other extractors

2. Best Premium Pick: Jabsco 17850-1012 Engine Oil Change System

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Why we like it: The Jabsco sports an electric pump that runs off 12v and is attached to a giant bucket. That makes it easy to do things like changing the oil on your tractor in the middle of a field.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Powered by: 12v motor
Capacity: 14qts
Speed: 5 minutes for an average engine
What Makes It Good?
Electric pumps have two huge advantages over the hand and air pumps: they are way faster and require way less work, the Jabsco exemplifies that. Yeah, it might just be a 12v pump bolted to a paint bucket, but it’s everything you need to suck out a ton of oil quickly. It holds 14qts, and if you are a little crazy, you can upgrade it to 20qts using a 5-gallon pail.
It’s simple to use too, which is also a little bit of a downside, but we’ll get to that later. It has a red clamp that goes on the positive battery terminal and a black clamp for the negative terminal. You clip it into the power and turn it on and off with a switch on the back.
Finally, it’s a high-quality pump that you can rely on. Many people have to drive out to farm equipment, off-road projects, or boats at a dock who can’t afford to bring something that they can’t count on. The other electric extractor we list is very inexpensive, but it isn’t nearly as dependable as Jabsco.
What Could Be Better?
There are three significant downsides to the Jabsco. The first is a failure of all the electric pumps. If you don’t have a 12v battery, then it won’t work, the end. You probably will have your car nearby no matter what, but between short leads and short hoses, there’s no convenient way to make it work unless you have 12v on site. You will burn more calories carrying around a spare car battery than you will be pumping up a manual extractor like the Hydro-Turf. The novelty of the electric motor wears off quickly when you stack it up.
The second is the price. The price of convenience is often steep. In the Jabsco’s case, it’s really, really steep. You could buy and break a lot of Mannews for the price.
Finally, the pump is non-reversible. That means you can pump oil out of your engine into the bucket, but you can’t pump it out of the bucket. This is a minor thing and it’s simple enough to take the lid off and pour the bucket out. If you are doing a lot of oil changing, though, you’ll start wishing you could just turn it on and have the pump empty it.

Pros

Massive reservoir capacity
Electric pump means no sore arms
Very portable despite the size

Cons

Expensive
Pump is not reversible

3. Best Budget Pick: The Hydro-Turf Extractor

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Why we like it: The Hydro-Turf extractor is a lightweight, ultra-simple little unit that can suck out a pan fast.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Powered by: Hand pump
Capacity: 6.3qts
Speed: 8-13 minutes for an average engine
What Makes It Good?
The Hydro-Turf is fast, simple, and lightweight. Unlike the heavier Topsider, it’s made of plastic through and through, and that’s not a terrible thing. It might not last as long, but it does make the unit lighter and more corrosion resistant.
The really nice thing that the Hydro-Turf brings to the table is a relatively large hand pump. The only thing that builds a vacuum faster by hand is the Mityvac, and the Hydro-Turf is half the size and weight. Like similarly designed “bulb” shaped units, the pump detaches, and the container is super easy to pour out.
What Could Be Better?
If you’ll allow us to be blunt, the Hydro-Turf costs more than the Topsider and holds less while only being a little bit faster.
We don’t want to knock it too hard though, it is a really good unit. Frankly, if you are just looking for something lightweight and easy to work with, it’s perfect. It’s better quality than the LiquiVac, which it directly competes with, and it’s not overly expensive.

Pros

Lightweight and collapsible
Large hand pump doesn’t take much work to build pressure
Long hose works well for a variety of motors

Cons

Low capacity
Plastic pump connection may weaken over time

4. Best Multi-Purpose: Air Power America Topsider MVP

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Why we like it: The Topsider MVP is simple, bulletproof, and compact.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Powered by: Hand pump
Capacity: 8qt
Speed: 15-20 minutes for an average engine
What Makes It Good?
The Topsider has a few features that really set it apart. It’s all-metal, first of all. It’s actually the only all-metal design on this list and that makes it really durable. Since it breaks down for storage too, it’s the perfect “throw it in the back of the truck” extractor that you can just keep with you and have it on hand.
It’s also got a big reservoir that’s easy to empty. That makes the Topsider able to handle just about any job, from a garden tractor to a Duramax truck. Only the Mityvac and the Jabsco have a larger capacity, but they have a price tag to match.
What Could Be Better?
The Topsider has a couple of downsides that might make you look at other options. First, and it’s a minor complaint but is unique to this unit, the metal construction makes it so you can’t tell how much fluid you’ve extracted. If that’s really an issue, the Hydro-Turf on the list is a very similar unit that’s plastic.
The Hydro-Turf also addresses the other, more substantial issue with the Topsider: it takes a lot of work to keep the Topsider pressurized. Units like the Mityvac only need a few pumps to extract all the oil from an average-sized engine. With the Topsider, you will be looking at 30-40. It’s an easy pump to operate, you don’t need to eat a big meal the day before or anything, but it does take longer than other units just because it requires more pumping.

Pros

Compact and collapsible
All metal construction
Very easy to use
Large reservoir

Cons

Your arm might get tired
Can’t see how much fluid you’ve extracted

5. Best Portable: OEM TOOLS Fluid Extractor

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Why we like it: OEM’s extractor is high-quality and compact, making it perfect for the space-limited shop.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Powered by: Hand pump or air compressor
Capacity: 6.3qt
Speed: 10-15 minutes for an average engine
What Makes It Good?
Like the Mityvac, OEM TOOL’S extractor is both hand-powered or air-powered. The OEM is smaller, though. It only has a 6qt capacity. That’s fine for most cars, but you might have to empty it twice if you’re working on a larger motor.
Being smaller is its defining feature. Not only is the reservoir smaller, but the design is a lot more compact than the Mityvac’s. The hand pump is in the center of the unit instead of off to the side. It’s perfect if you need something really portable.
The OEM also has overflow protection, so you don’t have to worry about it spilling everywhere. It also has a spout on top that makes pouring out the contents super easy. It’s little things like that that make the OEM one of the easiest pumps to live with if you don’t have much of a shop.
What Could Be Better?
Not a whole lot, actually. It costs a lot, almost the same as the Mityvac, despite being smaller, so there’s that. You won’t get the combination of compactness and features in anything else, though.
Probably the biggest thing that OEM needs to improve on is their included hoses. The dipstick filler hose leaves some things to be desired, it’s not long enough to be really convenient. You can buy different sizes, but it’d be nice if they just included another foot on the one they give you.

Pros

Hand or air operation
Manual pump is large and only takes a few pumps to work well
Very compact

Cons

Won’t hold all the oil from a large displacement engine
Dipstick hose is too short for some vehicles and requires additional purchase

6. Best Siphon: Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon

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Why we like it: The Koehler doesn’t have a reservoir, and it isn’t fast, but it’s really, really cheap and versatile.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Powered by: Hand pump
Capacity: Doesn’t come with its own reservoir
Speed: Really, really slow
What Makes It Good?
We want to start off by saying that even though the list of good things about the Koehler is short, it’s worth a look. It’s really, really cheap. If nothing else, buy one as a backup for everything else on the list.
Every mechanic or DIYer should have a simple transfer pump in their toolkit anyway. They are good for tons of things, like draining a radiator, siphoning out oil from a hard to reach spot like a differential, and filling a bike tire. Sure, literally any product designed to do any of those tasks will do it better, but a small transfer pump can do it all. That makes it invaluable since dedicated machines sometimes break or cost too much.
What Could Be Better?
It’s slow, to start. The idea is to create a siphon and allow gravity to do all the work for you. However, with high viscosity fluids like oil, what ends up happening is you’ll continuously be pumping. Since it’s only as fast as you can pump, you’ll be pumping for a very long time to extract the oil from anything that has a decent capacity.
You also have to source your own bucket to drain into, and hope that the pressure fit hoses don’t pop off and spray oil in your face if you get a kink or accidentally suck up some debris. Like we pointed out before, it’s not a great solution to any problem. It can do the job simply, and it’s cheap.

Pros

Very inexpensive
Tiny and easy to carry around
Versatile

Cons

You have to find your own bucket
If your vehicle has a lot of oil, you’ll be pumping forever

7. Best Lightweight Manual Extractor: Air Power America LiquiVac

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Why we like it: The Air Power America LiquiVac does everything you need it to at a much friendlier price than its competitors.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Powered by: Hand pump
Capacity: 8qts
Speed: 15-20 minutes for an average engine
What Makes It Good?
The LiquiVac is a neat little system. It’s a lot like the Topsider tool when you compare the numbers. It holds 8qts like the Topsider, but the LiquiVac takes a lot more priming like it as well. What really sets it apart is how lightweight and compact the engineers made the LiquiVac. They mounted the hand pump sideways so that it takes up less space, and the hand pump is the handle for carrying and pouring.
That makes this little unit perfect for working in tight spaces. If you have a cramped engine compartment that doesn’t offer much maneuvering room, take a look at this unit.
It’s also the cheapest full feature unit we suggest; once you get cheaper, you make some real sacrifices. The other inexpensive pumps we list either don’t have a reservoir or are so tiny you would never want to do a complete automotive oil change.
What Could Be Better?
It’s a pain to pump it up. We keep saying pump it up because it’s easy to understand, but the truth is that you are pumping air out of the container to create a vacuum. That takes a long time with a small pump pulling air out of a big reservoir. Everything’s a trade-off, if you want the big container, your arms will get tired. It’s just how it works.
It’s also, to put it kindly, not as high quality as the Topsider or Hydro-Turf it competes with. The pump is prone to breaking after many uses, and the plastic parts are likely to wear out. If you are only doing a few oil changes here and there, it won’t be an issue. Just don’t expect it to outlast your shop like the Topsider will.

Pros

Lightweight and compact
Easy to use
Inexpensive compared to competitors

Cons

Isn’t very fast
Needs a lot of pumping

8. Best for Low Volumes of Oil: Briggs & Stratton 5430K

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Why we like it: Briggs & Stratton are world-famous small engine manufacturers. They made this tiny extractor to be the perfect companion for small engines.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Powered by: Hand pump
Capacity: 1.7qts
Speed: 5 minutes for a lawnmower engine
What Makes It Good?
Take the Mityvac and shrink it down to a quarter of the size, and you have the Briggs & Stratton Oil Extraction Pump. It’s a really solid unit with a good pump and easy to use design, but only if you don’t need to extract more than one and a half quarts.
The nice thing about a small extractor like the B & S is that it works like bigger vacuum extractors. You insert the hose into the oil, draw a vacuum and let it work. Many small volume extractors, like the syringe style Mityvac, require you to constantly pull on a plunger to draw out the oil. With the B & S, though, you can eat a cheeseburger while it sucks the oil out of your quad.
What Could Be Better?
It could be bigger, since it can’t hold much. We know that’s not the point, it’s meant for small engines, and it works okay for that, but still, it could be just a little bit bigger. There are a lot of motors that use two quarts.
You’ll also have to make sure the pump creates an excellent connection to the container. It has a habit of popping off if it isn’t seated correctly. If it starts to separate as you are extracting, you’ll have to look silly standing on the container with one foot, pumping with one hand and holding the hose with the other.

Pros

Compact and convenient design
Fast for a tiny unit
Inexpensive

Cons

Not good for larger engines
Pump can be temperamental

9. Best Inexpensive Electric Pump: Mannew 12v 60w

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Why we like it: This budget 12v electric pump is great for extracting fluid fast, provided you have a bucket and a bit of DIY ingenuity.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Powered by: 12v electricity
Capacity: Doesn’t come with its own reservoir
Speed: A few minutes for an average motor
What Makes It Good?
This is a generic extractor pump. The kind that has a different label depending on where you buy it, but they are all actually the same. That’s great if you just want a simple electric pump for cheap. It’s got all the stuff you want: a pump, some hoses, battery clamps, an on-off switch. It doesn’t have a reservoir, but that’s just an opportunity for you to get creative and make it as big as you want.
It’s also easy to reverse the flow, just switch the in and out. That way, you can pump the old oil out, then pump new oil in. At less than ¼ the price of the Jabsco. Honestly, what more could you want?
What Could Be Better?
The leads are a little short, and the included hoses are only “good enough.” You’ll have to source your own bucket, and when you do, grab a new set of hoses too. Other than that, there’s really nothing to complain about.
The pump is fast, can transfer oil, and does exactly what it says it does. Most complaints will come from people who expect too much of a cheap little pump. For instance, it won’t run for hours on end, it will overheat and break. So don’t expect it to do that; just use it for 20 minutes at a time max.

Pros

Fast
Inexpensive
Reversible

Cons

Doesn’t come with its own reservoir
Included hoses and wires are short

10. Best Syringe-Style: Mityvac 7-½” Extractor

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Why we like it: If you just need to suck out the last few drops, nothing beats the simplicity of this Mityvac.
Editor’s Rating:

At a Glance:
Powered by: Hand plunger
Capacity: .35qts
Speed: Pretty fast for ¼ quart, but it would take you all day to drain the average engine
What Makes It Good?
Syringe style extractors are probably the most intuitive tools on this list. They have a plunger on one end and a tube on the other. You pull on the plunger and suck up whatever is on the other end of the tube. If you look at a unit like the Mityvac Fluid Evacuator and gawk at the complexity, let the simplicity of this tool calm your mind.
The syringe style design makes it perfect for a few highly specific applications. It’s really, really good for very viscous fluids, like gear oil. You can fish the line into your differential and pull on the plunger to extract a sample very easily. It’s also perfect for places where you only need to suck out a small amount of liquid, like a clutch fluid reservoir or power steering pump.
The small size and fully contained design of the syringe make it the cleanest, most straightforward way to draw fluid out of tight spaces.
What Could Be Better?
It’s really only suitable for extracting small amounts of fluid. Even if you have a lawnmower, you’ll still have to do multiple draws with this extractor. It’s for that reason that it can feel a little expensive. You can get the Briggs & Stratton for the same price. It actually pulls a vacuum and can hold five times as much.
The thing is that the Mityvac syringe is of excellent quality. We rated it low on this list because if you are extracting oil, chances are you are changing the oil on your vehicle. Even smaller engines like on a dirtbike hold more oil than you would want to ever draw out with a small unit like this. On a list of small fluid extractors, though, this would be near the top. Just use it for what it’s for, and you’ll be happy.

Pros

Super simple
Easy to clean
Good for high viscosity oils

Cons

Holds very little
A bit expensive for what it is

All About Auto Oil Extraction
Once you’ve chosen the oil extractor of your dreams, you are ready to use it. We’ve compiled some tips, tricks, and knowledge to help you along.
The Advantages of Using an Extractor
Draining oil from a car isn’t hard. The oil pan has a plug on the bottom, and gravity tends to work great for spilling out fluids; it might seem unnecessary to introduce a new machine into the equation. Extractors offer some really nice advantages that make them worth paying for, though.
Reduced Mess During Oil Changes
For people working in their driveway or on the street, this is probably the biggest advantage. When you use an oil extractor, which we teach you how to do down here, you suck all the oil straight into an easy to move container. No sloshing drain pans, no dripping after you put the plug back, and no more oil spraying everywhere because some designer decided that right underneath the drain plug is the perfect place for a torsion bar. Just slurp, and you are done.
You Don’t Need a Jack
As much fun as crawling underneath a car is, we are going to bet that it’s not your favorite part of car maintenance. Good news, with an oil extractor, you pull all the oil out of the top of the motor. You don’t need to lift the car. You won’t have to crawl across hot concrete just to find out you grabbed a 13mm instead of a 14mm and have to crawl back out.
Extractors Are Efficient
People will debate this until the last internal combustion engine burns its last ounce of fuel. Still, most people will be able to extract more oil using an extractor than just pulling the drain plug. For a pan drain to work correctly, you must make sure your car is sitting level. You also have to have a drain hole that is actually on the bottom of the pan. If you want another opinion, Drivetribe did an excellent breakdown here.
Top Tips for Using an Extractor
Some extractors, like the Mityvac syringe style, don’t need any explanation. Others, like the Topsider and all of its competition, can be a bit complicated. These tips can save you a lot of time and get your car back to doing burnouts as fast as possible.
If you want to see a full tutorial on how to use an extractor, this guy on youtube does a good job. We feel comfortable linking his video since he likes the same extractor we recommend as our top pick, the Topsider. If you were persuaded, the video is a bonus validation.
Make Sure You Have the Correct Hoses
Check that you have the right hoses before you do anything. Most of the time, you are going to be drawing out the oil through the dipstick tube. Your whole operation will come to a screeching halt if you set everything up and then learn that the included hose won’t actually fit your car’s access.
Worse still, and you may want to check this before you even buy an extractor, some modern cars don’t have a dipstick. You’ll have to look online for where the top access is if it exists.
Know About How Much Oil You’ll Be Extracting
If you have a car that uses x-qts of oil typically, you should plan to draw out no more than x-qts. It’s good to know that for two reasons. The first is so that you make sure you have the right size extractor. If you have a big truck that needs 7 liters and bought a standard 6qts extractor like the Hydro-Turf, you have a recipe for a mess.
The second reason isn’t extractor specific, but you can identify a problem if there’s too much or too little fluid that drains out. If you think your car needs 4qts of oil and you only pull out 2qts, they had to go somewhere. Either your car leaked them out, or it burned them off. Both are problems that you should keep an eye on.
If you think the car has 4qts of oil and you pull out 6qts, you should probably take it to a mechanic immediately. The most common reason to have extra fluid in the oil pan is that the excess fluid is coolant, and there’s no good reason for coolant not to remain trapped in coolant channels. Or you have a buddy playing a prank on you by overfilling your oil to make the car smoke and stink. You’ll have to make that call
Warm Up the Engine
Oil flows best when it’s warm. In fact, unless you have a stronger model like the Hydro-Turf we mentioned, your extractor might not work at all if the oil is too thick and cold. The easiest thing to do is just go on a quick drive. That’s good advice for any oil change, it gets the oil around and flowing so you can make sure you drain it completely.
Stop When You Hear It Suck Air
Like the Mityvac Plus, some extractors have easy to read marks on the side and automatic shutoff valves. However, most don’t, so you’ll have to know when the oil pan is empty by comparing how much oil you think needed to be drained with the sound the extractor is making. The telltale empty noise sounds like blowing bubbles through a straw.
Before you completely remove the hose, poke around with it to make sure there aren’t any pockets of oil left in the pan. You can’t hurt anything on the bottom end of the engine. Plastic tubing is a poor tool for scratching cast metals, so don’t worry about damaging anything by poking around.
Inspect the Oil
Extracting the oil into an extractor, especially one that’s easy to see into like the OEM above, makes it easy to quickly inspect the oil for a good indicator of engine health. It’s like doing a blood test, just a bit messier. Car Labs has a handy visual breakdown here.
Have a Plan for Disposing of the Oil
Oil is bad for the environment, make sure you have a plan for disposing of the oil after you drain it. Most of the extractors, especially very transportable ones like the Hydro-Turf and the LiquiVac, you can just take it straight to a place that recycles oil and dump it out
Oil Change Frequently Asked Questions

Everyone knows that cars should have their oil changed from time to time, but there are some considerations surrounding oil changes. If you need some help, make sure to read our guide on changing the oil in your own car.
Why Should You Change the Oil?
As oil runs through your engine, it heats up. When it heats up, it begins to break down and become less affected. Over a long enough time, the oil will have broken down so much that it is not doing its job anymore. That leads to extra heat, which leads to parts wearing down faster. Your engine suffers if those things happen.
How Often Should You Change the Oil?
People like to argue about how often you should change your oil, but we like Car and Driver’s breakdown here. Basically, change your oil when your manual says to do it, and do it more often if you regularly drive in a dirty area.
Is Synthetic Better Than Conventional?
It depends, but for the most part, yes. It takes longer to break down and has detergents that help keep your engine cleaner. Is it worth the extra price? If you are doing regular oil changes and don’t drive your car like a maniac, then probably not. The advantages of synthetic oil are mostly seen when you drive a car hard, and you drive it for a long time between oil changes.
Enjoy Easier, Cleaner Maintenance
The biggest advantage of using an oil extractor compared to conventional methods is how clean everything stays. That makes changing the oil a much more pleasant experience. Gone will be the days of smelling like burnt oil for the entire week. Gone will be the days of clothes and hands covered in stains. You won’t be banished outside after doing car maintenance, and your neighbors will thank you for not leaving huge oil stains on the driveway.
The only downside is that you won’t have an excuse not to change your oil anymore. At least with a good extractor, you can have a drink while it drains. More

If you spend your spare time performing home maintenance or redecoration, eventually you’ll come across a problem only a rivet can solve. Your project may involve attaching metal sheets, or perhaps you want to frame that new family portrait in the living room. No matter your reasons, rivets are a great way to connect joints as they’re far stronger and more permanent than screws or nails.
At this point a rivet gun becomes an essential purchase, but how should you choose which one to buy? In this guide, we’ll tell you which factors to consider when making your decision, analyze the best rivet guns available for purchase, and end by discussing everything you should know to choose the rivet gun that meets your needs.

Factors to Consider Before Purchasing a Rivet Gun
A rivet gun is a tool used to secure a rivet, which is a type of metal fastener, into a joint. Rivets are widely used on projects ranging from home maintenance to aircraft assembly. Which rivet gun you should buy depends on where and how often you intend to use it. Some options won’t be suitable for your needs while others might be overkill.
How Rivets Work
Before we take a look at the ten best rivet guns on the market today, let’s briefly discuss how rivets work and review some key terms we’ll be using in this guide. Blind rivets, sometimes referred to as POP rivets, are one of the most common rivet types. Blind rivets have their name because they’re often used when you can’t see or get to the other side of the surface you’re attaching them to.
The blind rivet has two parts: the mandrel, which is the long, thin portion that’s inserted into the rivet gun; and the body, which is the wider, shorter portion that goes through the hole you want to put the rivet in. A washer-shaped piece sits between them and is referred to as the hat. The mandrel runs through the inside of the body and the rivet gun pulls it out while keeping the hat pressed against the surface.
As the mandrel is pulled out, the body deforms and compacts, which attaches the rivet to the surface. Once the rivet is installed, the rivet gun breaks the mandrel off. You’re left with a nice, smooth finish on the visible side.
If you’ve never used a rivet gun before and want a quick breakdown of how the process works, we cover that in our How Do I Use a Rivet Gun full guide to riveting below.
Rivet Gun Types
There are several types of rivet guns available, each with its own set of pros and cons which make them suitable for different kinds of jobs. Every rivet gun you consider will fall under one of these categories.
Hand Rivet Guns
As the name suggests, your hand does most of the work with this variety since you squeeze on the handle to install the rivet. These rivet guns are usually small, so they fit in tight or narrow spaces. Hand rivet guns also tend to be cheaper than other gun types. However, these guns will strain your hands, wrists and forearms so they’re not the best option when you have lots of riveting to do.
Lever Rivet Guns
This variety gets its name from the levers it has on either side, which simultaneously increase the leverage it provides during rivet installation and decrease the amount of physical strength needed to use it. Lever rivet guns make larger projects easier to complete, but they’re often bigger and more expensive than hand rivet guns.
Battery-Powered/Portable Rivet Guns
The name says it all with this variety. It offers portability since, like a hand or lever rivet gun, you can carry it anywhere. It’s also convenient since you just have to push a button to install the rivet. This variety serves best when you’re working outside. The only real disadvantage to these guns is that you’ll need to recharge the battery sometimes.
Pneumatic/Air-Powered Rivet Guns
Like battery-powered rivet guns, this type works faster and is more powerful than hand or lever rivet guns. It uses compressed air to install the rivet and puts little strain on your hand. If you have lots of riveting to do, this is a great choice. You just need to ensure it always has a hosed connection to a supply of compressed air, which means it’s not as portable as the other types.
What to Look for in a Rivet Gun
Now that you know what rivet gun types are out there and their general pros and cons, we can start discussing which specific qualities you should take into account when browsing different products. We judged all of the rivet guns on our list against these characteristics.
Versatility
Rivets come in a variety of sizes and types, so it’s advantageous to purchase a gun that fits with a decent range. At the very least, your rivet gun must work with the size and type of rivet you’re using.
Ease of Use
If you plan on doing lots of riveting, you’ll want to choose a gun that requires less effort to use so you don’t get tired quickly. The tool’s handle and how comfortable the gun is to use are key here. Rubber handles tend to be the most comfortable. Pneumatic rivet guns are better for those with less physical strength since they don’t require you to pull hard on the trigger or keep a tight grip as you use them.
Durability
You want your rivet gun to last for the duration of your project and a long time afterward. Most rivet guns are made of metal, but the type of metal greatly impacts durability. Iron is durable but heavier than steel. Aluminum is reasonably strong while remaining lightweight. Additionally, it can be used for long periods without discomfort. Heat-treated carbon steel is another option for better durability.
Size
You may want to consider how big of a rivet gun you want, especially if you need it to fit into narrow or awkward spaces. Keep in mind that any size mentioned in a rivet gun’s product name refers to the handle length. The size we’ll list for each gun is its full length.
Now that we’ve discussed rivet gun types, what factors to consider when buying one, and how they work, let’s take a look at the 10 best rivet guns available today!

Top 10 Best Rivet Guns 2020

1. Best Overall Rivet Gun: WETOLS 14” Hand Rivet Nut Tool

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Why we like it: If you’re looking for overall value, it doesn’t get any better than the WETOLS lever rivet gun. It already earns high marks for its incredibly durable construction and wide compatibility range, but when you add in the accompanying carry case and rivet nuts, you’ve got our top pick, especially with its mid-range price.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Lever
Size: 15-1/2”
What’s Included: 10 rivet nuts for M6, M8, M10, 5/16-18, 3/8-16; 20 rivet nuts for ¼-20; nosepieces for all 6 sizes, 2 nosepieces for ¼-20, 1 nosepiece for each other size
Compatibility: M6, M8, M10, ¼-20, 5/16-18, 3/8-16
The WETOLS lever rivet gun has a wide range of compatible mandrels, rates highly on durability and even ships with a convenient carry case for the gun, mandrels and rivets. While this option lacks the mandrel collector cup that other lever guns have, it makes up for that shortcoming with its many qualities and sells for a lower price than some of our other premium choices. If you want a great lever gun that has a collector cup, consider the Astro Pneumatic Tool 1423.
Versatility
The WETOLS lever rivet gun is compatible with a half-dozen rivet types and ships with 10 rivet nuts for each mandrel. This solid compatibility range means the tool will likely be able to install the right rivet size for your project, though there are a few rivets it doesn’t support. Always make sure you choose a rivet gun that works with the rivet size you need.
Ease of Use
The WETOLS tool provides molded grips that make it easier to control the gun and install the rivets. You will have to swap out the mandrel depending on which rivet you need at the moment, but it’s easy to do.
Durability
This rivet gun is made to last between its carbon steel arm and heat treated mandrels. The WETOLS tool was made with longevity in mind, and it’ll be a long time until corrosion sets in.

Pros

Case helps for storage, portability and organization
Better price than some other premium, all-around options
Incredibly durable
Solid grip with molded handles
Wide compatibility range, comes with at least 10 rivets of each size

Cons

Must be unloaded after each use
Not compatible with a few rivet sizes, such as SAE 10-24 and M5
No collector cup for used mandrels

2. Best Premium Rivet Gun: Astro Pneumatic Tool PR14 Air Riveter

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Why we like it: The PR14 is a pricier option, but it provides incredible value. It’s trusted among professionals and manufacturers for its convenience, speed and power. If you need to get lots of riveting done quickly or you work in an industrial setting, there’s no better option than the PR14.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Pneumatic
Size: 10-7/8”
What’s Included: ¼-inch(6.4mm), 3/16-inch(4.8mm), 5/32-inch(4mm), 1/8-inch(3.2mm), 3/32-inch(2.4mm) nosepieces
Compatibility: 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”, ¼”
The PR14 installs rivets quickly and securely, making it a fantastic choice for large-scale projects or professional settings. It’s meant for frequent and extended use, which it pulls off effortlessly as long as you oil it from time to time. Combine those qualities with its longevity and ability to work at any angle, and you’ve got our best premium rivet gun.
You will have to buy rivet nuts separately, though, since none are sold with this gun.
Versatility
The PR14 has a decent compatibility range with nosepieces fitting almost every size from 3/32” to ¼”. It has three nosepieces screwed onto the base so you’re likely to have the one you need on hand.
Ease of Use
The PR14 really shines here. The tool delivers over 2400 pounds of pulling pressure, installing most rivets with just one pull of the trigger. It can also be used at any angle, so reaching awkward spaces is less of an issue. The mechanism resets quickly so you don’t have to wait too long after installing a rivet. It can be operated with or without the plastic cup on the back which catches the used mandrels. If you use the cup, be sure to empty it occasionally.
Durability
This gun is built to last as it’s often used in industrial settings. Just make sure to oil it occasionally, especially if you use it frequently.

Pros

Good compatibility range, fits with 5 nosepieces it comes with
Very powerful, installs rivets quickly
Works at any angle
Meant to be used often, good for large projects

Cons

More expensive than most options
Needs oil occasionally
Unlike other options, doesn’t come with any rivet nuts

3. Best Budget Rivet Gun: Astro Pneumatic Tool 1423

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Why we like it: The Astro 1423 is a great choice for anyone who doesn’t want to break the bank on a rivet gun. It offers many of the benefits of our top choices, but it costs notably less.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Lever
Size: 13-1/2”
What’s Included: 1/8-inch(3.2mm), 5/32-inch(4mm), 3/16-inch(4.8mm), 6mm, ¼-inch(6.4mm) nosepieces
Compatibility: 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”, 6mm, ¼”
The 1423 is notably less expensive than some of our other top choices, but that doesn’t translate to a decline in product quality. With a solid compatibility range, a unique design that provides incredible leverage, and a convenient compact design, this is a great choice for anyone on a budget. On the other hand, it does occasionally have some issues with gripping rivets properly so you might also consider the Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442, our pick for the best lever gun.
Versatility
The 1423 comes with 5 nosepieces fitting sizes from 1/8” to ¼”, giving it a comparable compatibility range compared to other choices on this list.
Ease of Use
The 1423 has a unique double compound hinge design that provides significant leverage especially when installing blind rivets. Like the PR14, this gun has a plastic cup on the back to collect used mandrels. However, sometimes the 1423 has issues with setting rivets and ejecting spent mandrels into the collector cup. You may have to point the tool toward the sky, then open and close the handles to set a new rivet or make the used mandrel fall into the cup.
Durability
This rivet gun is surprisingly durable considering its price. It retains its strength after hundreds, sometimes thousands, of installed rivets.

Pros

Double compound hinge design gives great leverage for blind rivets
Fits in narrow/awkward spaces
Good compatibility range
Very durable considering the price

Cons

Sometimes the tool struggles to grip properly and eject used mandrels

4. Best Lever Rivet Gun: Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442

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Why we like it: With its immense leverage, quick-change mandrel system, reasonable size and great compatibility range, the Astro 1442 easily earns its place as our top lever rivet gun.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Lever
Size: 15”
What’s Included: 10 rivet nuts for M5, M6, M8, 10-24, ¼-20, 5/16-18; 1 nosepiece for each size
Compatibility: M5, M6, M8, 10-24, ¼-20, 5/16-18
Like others of its brand, the Astro 1442 offers immense leverage with its compound hinge design, and it’s small enough to fit into awkward spaces. Add in 6 compatible mandrel/nosepiece sets and 10 pieces of each size, and you get your money’s worth.
Versatility
The 1442 is compatible with a 6 rivet sizes, half of which use Metric measurements (centimeters, millimeters, etc.) while the others use SAE measurements (inches, feet, etc.). The gun comes with 10 rivets of each type. There are also optional mandrel/nosepiece sets for 8-32 and 3/8-16 available for separate purchase.
Ease of Use
As with other Astro rivet guns, the 1442 has a compound hinge design that grants the user incredible leverage and minimizes the physical strength required to use the tool. This gun also allows for quick nosepiece/mandrel changes by hand.
Durability
Some oil must be applied at the pivot points and the knob that holds the mandrels if you buy one of these brand new. You should also make sure not to apply too much force when using this tool as you could break the mandrel. The manufacturer posted a warning with this product to exercise caution, particularly with smaller rivets. You can try to set a practice rivet in the air to get a feel for how much strength you should use. Just be sure to stop applying pressure once you feel the rivet is secure.

Pros

Great compatibility range with 6 nosepieces and 10 rivets of each size
Double compound hinge design provides significant leverage
Easy to swap mandrels and nosepieces

Cons

More expensive than most options
May require lubrication on pivot points and the knob
Per manufacturer’s recommendation, exercise caution with smaller rivets

5. Best Lever Rivet Gun Set: REXBETI 14” Rivet Nut Tool

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Why we like it: The REXBETI kit is a reliable upper mid-range price option, offering many of the benefits of the higher-ranked items on this list like great leverage, immense durability, wide compatibility, and a carrying case.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Lever
Size: 15-3/10”
What’s Included: 10 rivet nuts for M6, M8, M10, ¼-20, 5/16-18, 3/8-16; 2 nosepieces for ¼-20, 1 nosepiece for each other size
Compatibility: M6, M8, M10, ¼-20, 5/16-18, 3/8-16
The REXBETI serves as a great all-around, mid-range choice since it’s incredibly durable, easy to use, has a good compatibility range and a carrying case for the tool and its accessories.
The only drawback is that sometimes the nosepieces can break easily. Luckily, REXBETI offers free replacement nosepieces. If you want a rivet gun where nosepiece durability isn’t an issue, then try the WETOLS Rivet Nut Tool, which is also cheaper than the REXBETI—but keep in mind that it’s a hand rivet gun, so it won’t be suitable for anything more than light-duty projects.
Versatility
As with others on this list, the REXBETI is compatible with 6 different rivet sizes and 10 pieces of each type. Half of the rivets use Metric measurements while the other half use SAE measurements.
Ease of Use
The REXBETI has long arms and soft handles to make installing rivets as easy as possible. Additionally, you can quickly change the mandrel and nosepiece by hand. A carrying case is included with purchase, containing a specific spot for each component so all items can be transported without fear of damage.
Durability
The tool is made of heat-treated carbon steel, which resists corrosion and ensures it will last a long time. As we mentioned before, the mandrels can break, so be sure to contact the manufacturer for a free replacement if that happens.

Pros

Extra durable since it’s made from heat-treated carbon steel
Longer arm and soft handle make it easy to use
Decent compatibility range with 6 nosepieces and 10 rivets of each size
Comes with a carrying case for convenient storage, organization and portability
Can swap mandrel and nosepieces by hand

Cons

Nosepieces can be a bit brittle

6. Best Hand Rivet Gun: Marson 39000 HP-2 Professional Hand Riveter

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Why we like it: The HP-2 is a good hand rivet gun for anyone on a budget. While it lacks some of the features of other rivet guns on this list, it delivers with durability and a comfortable grip, making it a great choice for home projects.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Hand
Size: 10.2”
What’s Included: Service wrench, 4 mounted nosepieces (3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”)
Compatibility: 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16” (only compatible with stainless steel rivets up to 5/32”)
If you’re looking to save some money and you only need to install smaller rivets for a personal project, then this is the rivet gun for you. This tool provides reasonable durability and works for rivets up to 3/16”. Unfortunately, the HP-2 doesn’t come with rivets, so you’ll need to buy them separately. Autlead’s Hand Rivet Gun does come with plenty of rivets, though, so you can take a look at that one if you’d rather not search for rivets as a separate purchase.
Versatility
The HP-2 offers a compatibility range between 3/32” and 3/16”. Its four compatible nosepieces are mounted on the front of the tool.
Ease of Use
This rivet gun has cushion-molded vinyl grips for greater comfort. You’ll need that extra cushion since this is a hand rivet gun, meaning you’ll need decent grip strength to operate it, especially for lengthy projects.
Durability
The HP-2 has an aluminum alloy body and a carbon steel upper handle, which grants it decent durability. If you’re making frequent, extensive use of it, the HP-2 will eventually require replacement. However, if you only plan to use it occasionally for home or vehicle maintenance, it will last much longer.

Pros

Durability good enough for home/personal use
Comfortable grip
Decent compatibility range
Smaller than most other options, good for fitting in narrow spaces

Cons

Purchase does not come with rivets
Might not be durable enough for commercial/industrial use without the occasional replacement
Not the best for long projects due to reliance on grip strength

7. Best Hand Rivet Gun Set: Rivet Gun With 100-Piece Rivets

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Why we like it: This rivet gun set from Autlead is durable, small and offers a decent compatibility range. Combine that with all of the rivet nuts and nosepieces included with a purchase, and you get your money’s worth!
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Hand
Size: 9-1/16”
What’s Included: 25 rivet nuts for 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”; nosepieces for each size included on the handle, user manual, Kraft paper box
Compatibility: 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”
If you were wondering which option on our list will offer the most value for the lowest price, then this is it. As long as it’s compatible with the rivets you want and you don’t mind the typical drawbacks of hand rivet guns, this option could be your go-to riveting tool.
Versatility
This rivet gun offers a decent compatibility range between 3/32” and 3/16” and comes with 25 rivets for each size. It also works for aluminum, steel and stainless steel rivets. However, this option doesn’t come with a carrying case, so you’ll need to buy a storage unit separately.
Ease of Use
Although this tool relies on grip strength as all hand rivet guns do, this one is still relatively easy to use. The rivet head can be changed tool-free.
Durability
This tool is made to last as it features an aluminum alloy body and a handle of heat-treated carbon steel.

Pros

Great durability due to its aluminum alloy body and heat-treated carbon steel handle
Works for aluminum, steel and stainless steel rivets
Decent compatibility range
Small size allows you to fit it into narrow spaces

Cons

Relies on grip strength
A carrying case would have been nice to help organize all the rivets

8. Easiest Rivet Gun to Use: TACKLIFE 14” Auto Pumping Rod Rivet Nut Tool

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Why we like it: The TACKLIFE Auto Pumping Rod Rivet Nut Tool features a unique design that speeds up the rivet installation process. With this option, you can say goodbye to threading rivet nuts by hand.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Lever
Size: 14”
What’s Included: 5 rivet nuts for M5, M6, M8, M10, 10-24, ¼-20, 5/16-18; 1 nosepiece for each size, plastic carrying case
Compatibility: M5, M6, M8, M10, 10-24, ¼-20, 5/16-18
The TACKLIFE tool features a great compatibility range with 7 mandrels and a storage case to keep them safe and organized. It has strong durability as well, but the star of the show here is the pumping rod, a signature design choice which greatly speeds up the rivet installation process.
Versatility
The TACKLIFE tool features an exceptional compatibility range with 7 mandrels, but unfortunately it only comes with 5 rivet nuts of each size.
Ease of Use
The mandrels/nosepieces can be easily changed by hand. The pumping rod also makes installing rivets faster than ever since you won’t need to manually thread each nut. Once you’ve attached the right mandrel, simply open the handles, pull out the rod, and place the rivet nut on the head with one hand while pushing the rod with the other hand. Next, you use the tool to install the rivet like with any other lever rivet gun and then pull the rod to remove the nut.
Durability
The TACKLIFE tool consists of an iron body and carbon steel arms, allowing for a durable construction. Normally, iron noticeably increases a rivet gun’s weight, but this product clocks in at just 2.4 pounds.

Pros

Remarkable compatibility range with 7 mandrels
Works with aluminum, steel and stainless steel rivets
Comes with its own storage case
Thick carbon steel arms and iron body provide significant durability
Pumping rod speeds up rivet installation

Cons

Only comes with 5 rivet nuts for each mandrel

9. Best Large Rivet Gun: Dorman 743-100 Hand Rivet Gun

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Why we like it: It’s the largest options on our list, but it justifies its greater size with its ample leverage and an attached mandrel collector cup and nosepieces on the handles that you can use to swap out the one on the head at any time.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Lever
Size: 17-3/4”
What’s Included: 10 rivet nuts for 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”, 7/32”, ¼”; nosepieces for each size; service wrench
Compatibility: 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”, 7/32”, ¼”
The Dorman 743-100 has a good compatibility range, great leverage and is light on your wallet. It also has a bottle attached to the handle you can use to store your rivets.
Its greatest strength is also its weakness, however, since the long handles that provide more leverage make it larger than most other options and harder to fit in cramped spaces. If you want another great lever rivet gun that won’t make working in tight spaces quite as hard, take a look at the Astro Pneumatic Tool 1423.
Versatility
The Dorman 743-100 has a good compatibility range from 1/8” to ¼”. It works with 5 rivet sizes and comes with 10 rivets for each one.
Ease of Use
Here is where the Dorman 743-100 really shines. The tool offers outstanding leverage due to its longer handles, which means you won’t need as much physical strength to operate it. You might need to apply a bit of oil to its joints the first time you use it, as the tool can be stiff when brand new.
Durability
The Dorman 743-100 has solid durability for its price. Plus, if it breaks during normal use because of faulty manufacturing, the manufacturer offers a limited lifetime warranty to replace the tool for free.

Pros

Good compatibility range from 1/8” to ¼”
Has storage bottle for rivets attached to the handle
Has limited lifetime warranty
Longer handles provide more leverage

Cons

At nearly 18” long, could have trouble fitting into small spaces
You may need to apply some oil to the tool the first time you use it

10. Best Portable Rivet Gun: Milwaukee Electric Tools 2550-20 M12

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Why we like it: If you’re riveting outside or otherwise far from any outlets or power supply, then a handheld, battery-powered rivet gun is the way to go. When it comes to handheld options, you’d be hard pressed to find one better than the M12 Rivet Tool.
Editor’s Rating:

Quick Facts:
Type: Portable
Size: 10-3/4”
What’s Included: Nosepieces for all compatible sizes
Compatibility: 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”
Featuring a decent compatibility range, 2,000 pounds of pulling force, a compact design and the ability to install hundreds of rivets per charge, the M12 is a great all-around handheld rivet gun.
Versatility
The M12 is an incredibly versatile tool. Not only does it work for rivets between 3/32” and 3/16” in size, but it’s also compatible with aluminum, steel and stainless steel rivets.
Ease of Use
The M12 demands far less grip strength than a typical hand rivet gun, allowing you to take on large projects more easily. It also works much faster than a typical hand or pneumatic rivet gun.
Durability
The M12 is remarkably durable, capable of installing up to 450 1/8” steel rivets or 250 3/16” stainless steel rivets per charge. The downside is that the spent mandrels from smaller rivets can get stuck, forcing you to remove the jaws and take out the mandrels. There’s also a risk that the tool’s jaws can break or crack.

Pros

Decent compatibility range from 3/32” to 3/16”
2,000 pounds of pulling force
Little strain on hands and forearms
Installs hundreds of rivets per charge
Works for aluminum, steel and stainless steel rivets

Cons

Used mandrels from smaller rivets can get jammed in the waste tube
Jaws can break or crack
Doesn’t come with carrying case or rivets

Complete Guide to Riveting

Obviously you’ve got a lot to think about when choosing a rivet gun. There are plenty of great products out there, but you need to buy one that fits your needs. Keep reading for a discussion on how to determine which rivet gun is the best for you as well as answers to some common questions new riveters may have.
How Do I Use a Rivet Gun?
The exact method of using each rivet gun varies a tiny bit, but in general there is a standard procedure that you can follow when riveting. After drilling a rivet hole and attaching the appropriately-sized rivet to your gun, all you do is place the rivet through the holes, hold the gun tight against the surface, and pull the trigger.
It’s a pretty simple process, but if you’d like to see it in action it might be helpful to watch this video before you get started.[embedded content]
What Kind of Project Are You Attempting and Where Are You Doing It?
It shouldn’t come as a surprise by now that if you’re undertaking a large-scale project or buying a rivet gun for frequent factory use, a small hand gun isn’t your best option. Similarly, a large industrial-grade gun is hardly suitable for a quick home maintenance job. Think about how often you’ll need to use your new rivet gun.
You should also consider your immediate surroundings. A larger rivet gun won’t help you if you need to reach tight spaces, but that’s not a problem if you’ll be using it in an open area. If you’re working outdoors, a battery-powered rivet gun works best.
Large Industrial Projects
If you’re working in an industrial area or taking on a big project, a pneumatic gun is your best bet since they’re meant to handle frequent use and install rivets quickly. In this case, consider the Astro Pneumatic Tool PR14. If you’re working in an open area and need a cordless rivet gun, take a look at the 2550-20 M12.
Small Household Projects
If you’re doing a smaller project or just need a rivet gun for occasional use around the house, then a hand or lever gun works fine. If you’ll only rarely use your rivet gun, then a hand rivet gun like the Marson 39000 HP-2 will be enough.
The Mid-Range Option
If you need something with more power that requires less physical strength to use or you think you’ll need to rivet more often, then try a lever rivet gun. For those, you’d be best off with our top choice, the WETOLS Hand Rivet Nut Tool.
Feel free to browse any of the options we’ve presented in this guide when making your decision. If you don’t think the specific choices we just recommended work for your needs, that’s okay, but the general guidelines regarding which rivet gun types suit which kinds of projects still apply.
When Should I Use a Rivet Instead of a Screw?

As this article explains, solid rivets possess more shear strength than screws. That is, when they are installed in a direction perpendicular to the ground, they do a better job than screws at fighting gravity. They are also near-perfect at resisting vibration, which is why they’re often used on steel bridges and aircraft. Rivets are meant to last, and consequently they’re far harder to remove than screws. If you need a fastener to bear a strong shear load for the long haul, a solid rivet is your best bet.
Pop rivets are like a less extreme version of solid rivets. Unlike solid rivets, they have a hollow shaft, which makes them weaker. On the other hand, it also makes them easier to remove.
What Safety Precautions Should I Take When Using a Rivet Gun?
Safety is always essential when you’re working with power tools. Make sure you wear safety glasses at all times and never point your rivet gun at yourself or any other person or animal. You should also tie back any long hair and consider wearing a jacket and gloves for maximum protection.
Finally, read your owner’s manual for directions on proper use if your purchase comes with one and check the manufacturer’s safety guidelines.
How Many Types of Rivets Are There?
While we’ve spent most of our time discussing blind rivets, there are actually three other types as well: tubular, solid and split. Each of the four types have their own advantages for certain applications and there are plenty of options for each type. If you want to learn more about rivet types and their uses, read this article.
How Often Do I Need to Oil My Rivet Gun?
There’s no universal consensus on this question. Normally, however, if your rivet gun requires initial assembly, you should oil it before you start using it. You should also oil the rivet gun before each work session and whenever you perform cleaning or maintenance on it.
Keep in mind this advice only applies to pneumatic and lever rivet guns. Hand and battery-powered rivet guns like the Marson 39000 HP-2 Professional Hand Riveter won’t need oiling.
How Do I Remove a Rivet If I Make a Mistake?
Rivets are meant to be more permanent than nails or screws, so it’s recommended you exercise caution when deciding where to install them as they’re harder to remove than other fasteners. However, there are a few ways you can remove them if you make a mistake.
Using a Drill to Remove a Rivet
One option is to use a drill to force the rivet out through the surface. For this method, you’ll need a hammer, punch, some lubricant and a drill.
First, hold the punch against the top of the rivet and hit the flat end of the punch with the hammer to make a divot.
Then, attach a drill bit that’s roughly the same size as the divot you just made and lubricate the bit so it doesn’t overheat when you drive it through the rivet.
Next, place the drill bit against the divot and start drilling at a slow, steady speed.
Continue to apply pressure until the rivet has been forced through the surface.
Grinding off a Rivet
Another option is to grind the top of the rivet off before drilling the rest of it out through the surface. You’ll need a grinding wheel, punch, some lubricant and a drill.
Start by holding the grinding wheel parallel and close to the surface, then turn it on and slowly cut through the rivet head until it’s removed.
Then, place the punch in the middle of the rivet and hit the flat end with the hammer like in the previous example to make a divot.
Next, drill a pilot hole all the way through the rivet that’s roughly the same size as the divot you just made, making sure to lubricate the drill bit before using it.
Finally, attach a larger drill bit that’s about the same size as the rivet, lubricate it, place it into the pilot hole and drill all the way through again, applying firm and steady pressure to push the rivet out.
Hammering or Chiseling out a Rivet
You could also try using a hammer and chisel. Begin by wedging the chisel’s sharp end between the rivet head and the surface, then hit the end of the chisel with the hammer to break off the rivet head. Now you just have to place the chisel’s sharp end on top of the rivet and hit the dull end with the hammer until the rivet is pushed through.
Rivet Removal Tools
One last option is to use a rivet removal tool. There are a number of these tools available for purchase, just make sure you buy one with a drill bit that matches the size(s) of the rivet(s) you want to remove, and follow the product’s instructions for proper use.
For a more in-depth look at rivet removal and the methods we just discussed, you can read this article.
Time to Get Riveting!

After reading this riveting guide to riveting you should have a solid idea of what types of rivet guns are available, what attributes determine a rivet gun’s overall quality, and how to find one that suits your particular needs. If you have any remaining doubts, just remember the words of the most famous riveter of all time, Rosie.
We can do it! More

You know the feeling: the temperature is nearing triple digits and the leather seat in your vehicle burns your legs as you sit down. Or, the temperature is just below freezing, and the seat is about to turn you into a block of ice.
There’s no need to feel the extremes so intensely in your vehicle. Sheepskin is the perfect option because it keeps you cool in the summer and warm in the winter. It also makes your car look fancy and protects your seats.
Finding the best seat cover can be difficult, so we’ve scoured the Internet for the best sheepskin seat covers so you don’t have to.

How to Pick the Right Sheepskin Seat Cover
Not all sheepskin is the same, and not every seat cover is made in the same way. The following factors should be considered when you’re looking to purchase a seat cover.
Type of Sheepskin
Most seat covers say they are made of Australian sheepskin. This sheepskin is most likely from Merino sheep since they are the most popular breed. Merino wool is soft, thick, and long and is frequently used in clothing.
Other Australian breeds include:
Corriedale: Bred from Merino sheep, this wool isn’t as soft and is frequently used for felting.
Polwarth: Also bred from Merino sheep, this breed produces very thick wool.
Coopworth: This wool is the thickest of the Australian sheep breeds and doesn’t come from the Merino sheep family.
Wool is sometimes mixed, and since many breeds came from the Merino, it can be difficult to pinpoint exactly what kind of wool was used. Australian sheep breeds have long and slightly curly hair, so you can expect the products to be thick and fluffy.
Wool lengths vary from breed to breed. Many seat covers are made with long-haired sheepskin since they came from Australian breeds. That said, you will be able to find covers that are made with shorter wool lengths. There isn’t much of a difference between long and short hair, so you can choose whichever you prefer.
Compatibility with Airbags
In 2009, side airbag requirements went into place which resulted in all our new vehicles having airbags in the sides of seats or the side of the vehicle (or both). Some companies voluntarily put side airbags into vehicles as early as the 1990s, but it wasn’t too common.
Seat covers pose a potential risk to your safety if the side airbag is located in your seat. The airbags deploy out of the seat, and if they’re covered up, they won’t be able to extend all the way.
Fortunately, many seat covers are made with side airbags in mind. You can find seat covers that don’t have sides, so they’re completely safe to use. You can also find covers that wrap around the seat but have slits cut in the sides to allow the airbag to deploy.
Seat Compatibility
Most seat covers are listed as universal, claiming that they can fit on any seat. This isn’t always true, of course. Many seats are made the same way, but there’s still enough variation that voids the statement “one size fits all.”
Before you purchase a seat cover, measure every part of the chair and compare them to the measurements of the seat cover you want to purchase. You might be able to squeeze a small cover onto your chair, but you might speed up the wear and tear process by doing so since it will stay stretched and tight. A cover that’s too big will look saggy and might move around too much.
Features like headrests, seatbelts, and armrests can cause a universal seat cover to not fit your seat. Most seat covers are made for seats that have detachable headrests and seat belts that aren’t attached to the chair.
Installation
Before you choose a seat cover, look at what attachments the seat cover uses to secure it onto the seat and make sure it will work with your chair. Some covers use bands that go around the seat, velcro flaps, or straps that fit through the opening between the seat cushion and the back of the chair.
Your chair’s design might not be compatible with the seat cover, so try to determine if you can make it work for your chair. If you think you’ll need to make modifications, you’re better off waiting until you find a cover that will fit your seat. We talk about this in each review so you can determine if it’s good for you.
Quality
The quality of a sheepskin seat cover can be determined by a few things:
Tanning process: Improper tanning of the hide will lead to an oily feel on the wool and might damage your seat.
Stitching: A high-quality seat cover will be made with a single pelt of sheepskin, so there should be very few stitches and seams. There should only be stitches where additional material and straps are connected.
Softness: High-quality sheepskin is soft. If it’s rough, it likely wasn’t tanned properly or it was treated with too many chemicals.
Density and length: Low-quality sheepskin will look saggy because the hairs aren’t densely packed together. The hairs of a good sheepskin should stand up straight and tall.
Natural color: Good sheepskin can be dyed, but that might affect their quality even if it’s only slightly. Quality pelts are usually off-white or whatever the color of the sheep was.
Imperfections: The leather shouldn’t have any holes or cracks.
Scent: There shouldn’t be any kind of odor, especially a chemical odor. Low-quality tanning processes tend to smell more chemically than the high-quality kind.
Now that you have an idea about materials, seat compatibility, installation, and the marks of quality you’re looking for, we’ll discuss each of these factors in our 10 reviews of great sheepskin covers.

Top 10 Best Sheepskin Seat Covers 2020

1. Best Overall Sheepskin Seat Cover: Aegis Black Luxury Australian Sheepskin Wrap Seat Cover

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Why we like it: The hair on this seat cover isn’t too long or too short and the sides are open so there’s room for airbags to pop out. It’s a well-rounded product that will suit most people’s needs.
Editor’s Rating:

This Aegis sheepskin seat cover is a basic style of seat cover. It isn’t excessively fluffy and doesn’t offer storage space, but it does offer high quality at an acceptable price. If you’re looking for a great product at a good price, this is the one to look at.
Type of Sheepskin
This car seat cover is made of Australian sheepskin. The hair is cut short to just an inch and is super dense, so it will feel soft and thick. The material that goes under the seat to keep it in place is faux, but everything on top is genuine.
Airbag Compatibility
This cover doesn’t have sides on it, so you don’t have to worry about side airbags not working correctly. This also means it can fit on a wide variety of seats.
Installation
Since it doesn’t completely wrap around the seat, it’s super easy to put into place. It has straps with buckles just like a children’s car seat or backpack has. You simply place the cover over the seat, wrap the straps around as you need them, and click it into place.
It also has a hook that goes in the crease between the cushion and the back of the seat. This keeps the cover in place and will prevent it from bunching up. If your seat isn’t detached between the cushion and the back, you might not be able to get this part to work properly.
Quality
The seat cover is made from one pelt, so there are very few seams meaning it will hold up for quite some time. It’s thick, doesn’t shed, and doesn’t have a bad odor, so you can tell it’s made from a high-quality pelt.

Cons

Might not work with low riding seats
No pockets

2. Best Premium Sheepskin Seat Cover: Eurow Luxury Sheepskin Seat Cover XL

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Why we like it: This seat cover is made to fit larger seats and will fit all the way around them. You don’t have to settle for ill-fitting seat covers on your larger chairs.
Editor’s Rating:

Many universal seat covers don’t fit over larger seats that are in SUVs and pickup trucks. If you’re looking for something that will fit your larger-sized chairs, this is the right product for you.
It comes with a convenient pocket on the back to store your goodies in. Installation doesn’t require any tools, but it might be difficult to maneuver since all the hooks attach at the bottom.
Since the cover wraps around the entire seat, it won’t be compatible with collapsible armrests or seat belts that are located on the seat.
Type of Sheepskin
The front of this seat cover is genuine Australian Merino sheepskin. The wool is cut down to about an inch thick. If you’re looking for something fluffy, this isn’t it, but it’s certainly plush and soft.
The back and underside of the cover are made of an acrylic material that matches the front side of it. This is so it will stretch as it needs to so it can properly fit your chair. The faux material will do the stretching, not the sheepskin.
Airbag Compatibility
The seat cover wraps around the front, back, and sides of the seat. While this style is usually a cause for concern about safety, Eurow designed this cover with an opening on the sides to accommodate the airbag. It’ll be able to pop out as intended, so you don’t have to worry about compromising your safety just to have a comfortable chair.
Installation
Installation might be a bit tricky for this one. It’s easy to slide the cover over the seat, but it’s attaching all the hooks that might cause problems. It has six elastic straps with hooks and a ring that the hooks attach onto. It sounds simple enough, but you have to do this underneath the chair. If you’re able to detach your chair, it’ll be an easier process.
Quality
Merino sheepskin is a sheepskin that’s highly sought after because it’s soft and durable. The design has several seams on it that have the potential to break and means it’s made from more than one pelt. More than one pelt isn’t a bad thing, but it does mean that there could be slight variations between panels on the product.

Pros

Openings for airbags to pop out
Storage pocket on the back
Made of Merino sheepskin that’s known for being super soft

Cons

Might be difficult to install
Not made from one single pelt

3. Best Budget Sheepskin Seat Cover: Sisha Sheepskin Seat Cushion Cover

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Why we like it: Sheepskin products are usually a slight investment, but this cushion cover allows you to enjoy some sheepskin in your car for only a fraction of the price.
Editor’s Rating:

If you want a sheepskin seat cover but don’t want to spend a lot of money on it, a simple cushion will do the trick. Since it’s just the bottom cushion that sits on top of the seat, it can pretty much fit in any car seat. It’ll save your legs from the hot or cold seat, but of course, your back won’t receive any benefits.
Type of Sheepskin
This seat cover is made with long-haired Australian sheepskin. It’s incredibly soft and fuzzy so it’ll be sure to keep you warm in the winter. Since sheepskin regulates body temperature, the long hair won’t be a problem in the middle of summer.
Airbag Compatibility
This cover is completely airbag-friendly since it’s only a partial cover that goes on top of the cushion of your chair.
Installation
The cover has straps on the bottom that wraps underneath the seat and hook together. The straps are meant to go around the front and back of the seat, but since the cover is a square, you could probably wrap it around the sides of the seat if you really wanted to.
Going underneath car seats is usually a difficult task, so while it may be simple to install, it might be easier to have someone help you.
Quality
Despite the low price, this seat cover is of great quality. It’s made from a single pelt so there aren’t many seams to worry about. The pink seat cover being reviewed is clearly dyed, so the quality might not be the same as a natural-colored seat cover since dyes can affect softness.

Pros

Budget-friendly
Won’t interfere with side airbags
Will fit most seats

Cons

Not a full seat cover
Might need a second person to make installation easier

4. Best Sheepskin Seat Cover with Storage: Leader Genuine Sheepskin Seat Covers

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Why we like it: You can keep all your stuff handy with this seat cover. It has a pocket in the back for convenient storage and a small pocket in the front so you can keep your phone nearby.
Editor’s Rating:

Seat covers can be annoying because they cover up the storage that’s already on your chair. Fortunately, this Leader sheepskin cover has storage built into it so you don’t have to sacrifice much-needed space. You can’t use the airbags with this cover, so this might be a safety concern if you have a vehicle with side airbags.
Type of Sheepskin
The front of this seat cover is made of Australian Merino sheepskin. The hair is short so it might not be as plush as you were hoping for, but it’s still thick and soft.
The back and sides of the cover are acrylic faux sheepskin. There might be a color variation between the faux and the real sheepskin.
Airbag Compatibility
This cover isn’t compatible with side airbags that are in the seat. They won’t be able to pop out since they’ll be trapped in the seat cover. Side airbags became a requirement in 2009, so this cover won’t work with newer models of vehicles.
Installation
Installation is fairly easy for this seat cover. It slips over the chair and elastic straps will hold it in place at the bottom. This cover should be able to fit most seats, but you’ll need a detachable headrest for this seat cover to fit properly.
Quality
Merino sheepskin is super soft, so you can expect it to be high quality on the front. There are many seams, so it was made of more than one pelt, so there might be some variation between panels.
The acrylic faux sheepskin on the back and sides are much lower quality than the sheepskin. It doesn’t look the same and has a completely different texture than the sheepskin does. The faux part is what will be seen by your passengers, so you might not want to choose this one if that will bother you.

Pros

Large back pocket and small front pocket
Made of super-soft Merino sheepskin
Fits most seats

Cons

Not compatible with side airbags
Must have a detachable headrest for it to fit properly

5. Best Sheepskin Seat Cover for Side Airbags: Eurow Genuine Australian Sheepskin Sideless Seat Cover

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Why we like it: This seat cover is perfect for seats with side airbags because it doesn’t have side panels. It’s versatile and will fit on almost every seat without compromising your safety.
Editor’s Rating:

This seat cover is perfect if you need a seat cover that doesn’t restrict the side airbags. It doesn’t wrap around the seat with fabric, but instead uses straps that won’t get in the way. Only the bottom part of the cover has fabric that wraps around the seat so it shouldn’t take but a few minutes to install.
Type of Sheepskin
This cover is made of Australian sheepskin with acrylic faux sheepskin at the bottom. The hair is short and isn’t as plush as other seat covers on this list, but it’s still thick enough to be comfortable.
Airbag Compatibility
Since this cover doesn’t have sides to it, it’s completely compatible with side airbags. The straps that keep the cover in place won’t interfere with the airbags, either. The airbags will be able to pop out easily and won’t get stuck behind the cover.
Installation
Installing this cover is simple and should only take a few minutes. The bottom has faux sheepskin that wraps around the bottom of the seat with a strap to secure it in place. There are two small straps with hooks that go between the cushion and the back of the seat to prevent the cover from sliding around.
There’s a strap that goes across the back of the seat and straps that go around the headrest. The straps will be easier to work with if the headrest is detachable, but if it’s not, you should still be able to wrap them around a fixed headrest to secure the cover into place.
Quality
This cover is made from one pelt. The only seams are on the sides and where the genuine sheepskin attaches to the acrylic sheepskin. The color of the sheepskin is natural which means the quality wasn’t lowered by harsh dyes.
The only downside to this product is that the straps are known to break pretty easily. When you install this cover, try to keep the straps a little loose so they won’t get too tight when you sit down. They’re more prone to breaking when pressure is applied, so try not to put unnecessary pressure on them by pulling them too tight.

Pros

Will fit most car seats
Won’t interfere with airbags
Doesn’t take long to install

Cons

Straps can be pretty flimsy

6. Best Long-haired Sheepskin Seat Cover: Sisha Authentic Australia Sheepskin Car Seat Cover

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Why we like it: Long-haired sheepskin tends to feel cozier than short-haired and it has a fun look to it, too. If you like the look and feel of long-haired sheepskin, this is the best option for you.
Editor’s Rating:

This is another good seat cover that allows the side airbags to pop out. The sheepskin is only on the front, and the back is suede leather that’s attached with straps. The back has a convenient pocket and a pleated edge that makes it look high-end.
Type of Sheepskin
Long-haired Australian sheepskin is used for this product. The individual hairs are roughly 3.5 inches long, making this one of the lushest and fluffiest seat covers you can buy.
Airbag Compatibility
This seat cover works well with side airbags because the back is attached with straps, so the sides aren’t covered up. Airbags can easily eject without being obstructed, so this cover won’t cause any safety concerns.
Installation
This cover attaches with buckles on the headrest and on the back. A clip is used between the back of the seat and cushion to prevent the middle of the cover from moving around. The bottom of the cover uses a hook to hook underneath the chair. The hook can go onto any part of the chair, so you can get it as loose or as tight as you want it.
If you don’t have a detachable headrest or a space between the cushion and back of the seat, this will be a bit more difficult to install and you might not be able to fit it as intended.
Quality
The cover is made from one sheepskin pelt, so you can expect consistent coloring and quality throughout the entire cover. The back panel is made of suede leather so it’s durable and can withstand typical wear and tear.

Pros

Long and fluffy fur that’s incredibly soft
Buckles and hooks make it easy to install
Straps won’t cover the airbags on the side of the seat

Cons

Might not fit correctly if the seat headrest is attached

7. Best Fluffy Sheepskin Seat Cover: IMQOQ Sheepskin Fur Car Seat Covers

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Why we like it: The sheepskin on this cover is incredibly fluffy and will make the interior of your vehicle stand out for sure. It’s not fluffy all over, so it will feel like you’ve sunken into it a bit and are surrounded by fluff.
Editor’s Rating:

There’s just something about extra fluffy seat covers that make you feel expensive. These covers should meet those expectations if that’s what you’re looking for. They’re a bit obnoxious, but we mean that in a good way.
One thing to note about these covers is that they’re not entirely genuine sheepskin. This product comes with two seat covers, so the price for each one comes out to a little cheaper than what the average single 100% sheepskin cover would be.
Type of Sheepskin
The long-haired parts of these covers are genuine sheepskin. The hairs measure about 3.5 inches but might be a little longer.
The short part in the middle is faux fur. It’s about a half-inch in length and covers the areas where you sit and lean on, as well as where the crease of the seat is.
Airbag Compatibility
These covers are perfect for chairs with side airbags because the front and back are connected with straps instead of fabric.
Installation
These covers are one of the easiest to install. The bottom part wraps underneath the front of the seat and the top wraps around the headrest and secures with velcro. There are parts you can put between the cushion and the back to keep it in place.
Quality
Since the edges are the only part with real sheepskin, there are several seams. Several seams usually mean the product was made from multiple pelts which could cause inconsistency between panels.
The back of the covers are made with suede leather and have a pleated skirt and a storage pocket. They’re dustproof and sturdy and can withstand some wear and tear.

Pros

Incredibly fluffy sheepskin
Velcro for easy installation
Convenient pocket in the back

Cons

Not 100% sheepskin

8. Best Sheepskin Seat Pad: Desert Breeze Australian Sheepskin Seat Pad

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Why we like it: This seat pad doesn’t have to be strapped into your car to use it, so you can put in whichever seat you want or even take it inside and use it on your office chair.
Editor’s Rating:

If you’re looking for a sheepskin seat cover because you need relief while you sit for extended periods of time, then you probably need the same kind of relief elsewhere. Working an office job or even sitting at the kitchen table can be uncomfortable when you have pain or discomfort. Why spend more money on several products when you can just buy one?
This seat pad has a leather bottom with non-slip cloth underneath it so it’ll stay in place while you sit. It’s great for the car because you can set it down and not worry about it sliding around while you’re driving.
One big downside about this pad is that it isn’t recommended on heated seats because it might get damaged if it gets too hot. If your seats are heated, then give this one a miss.
Type of Sheepskin
The seat pad is made from Australian sheepskin. Each pad comes from a single pelt so there will be consistent quality throughout the whole bad. The sheepskin has been trimmed to one-inch thickness. It’s dense and plush and will definitely give you the comfort and softness you’re looking for.
Airbag Compatibility
There aren’t any complications with airbags since it’s just a seat cushion.
Installation
You’re going to say “duh,” but all you have to do is put it on your seat. It can go on the driver’s seat, passenger seat, and any of the back seats. Big car, small car, something in between – it’s most likely going to fit whatever you have.
It’s a square measuring 20 x 20 inches. If your car is particularly small, it might hang off the edge a little bit.
There aren’t any straps or hooks because it has a non-slip bottom and is meant to be moved around as you need it. Even with a special padding on the bottom, it might move around when you sit down if you hit the edges, but movement isn’t too much of an issue since it’s big enough to cover most seats.
Quality
This seat pad is made of high-quality Australian sheepskin. It’s durable and won’t get matted since the sheepskin is short. It’s thick and plush and won’t have any thin patches. You can wash it in the washing machine if it gets dirty and it won’t get messed up.

Pros

Use it in whichever car seat you want
Can also be used in any kind of chair
Machine washable
No installation necessary

Cons

Shouldn’t be used on heated seats

9. Best Two-Pack Set of Sheepskin Seat Covers: OxGord Sheepskin Seat Covers

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Why we like it: This pack of two seat covers is high-quality at an affordable price. This pack will most likely save you some money when you compare it to the price of buying two individually priced seat covers.
Editor’s Rating:

If you’re looking for a seat cover, you’ll probably want two, so your driver and passenger seats aren’t mismatched. Seat covers are typically sold individually, so it can be expensive to buy two of them.
Buying a pack of two can save you some money, and this pack by OxGord offers great-quality covers for a decent price.
Type of Sheepskin
This seat cover is made of Australian sheepskin on the front side. The back and sides are made with a faux fur that looks similar to the sheepskin. There might be some slight color variation between the two but they’re a close match.
Airbag Compatibility
These seat covers aren’t compatible with side airbags. The faux fur wraps around the sides and back of the seat, so airbags that are in the chair won’t be able to pop out. This can be a safety hazard if you get into an accident and need the airbags to deploy.
Installation
Installation is pretty easy. The top slides over the chair like a sock. Then, you wrap the bottom around the front of the chair. There are straps on the bottom to secure the cover into place. The straps have velcro to keep them secure.
Velcro can get clogged from hair and debris, so the straps might eventually stop working. If this happens, you can clean out the side with the hooks (the scratchy part) and it should work like new again.
Quality
The sheepskin on these covers is only on the front sides and they have a diamond pattern, so there are several seams to make the pattern. However, it comes from one pelt and is quite sturdy.
The sheepskin is trimmed pretty short to more than one inch, so it won’t feel as plush as other seat covers. But, you won’t have to worry about brushing or fluffing this one as often if you’ll ever need to at all.

Pros

Convenient 2-in-1 pack
Easy to install with velcro straps
Sheepskin doesn’t have to be brushed

Cons

Not compatible with side airbags
Velcro might become loose over time
Irregularly stocked

10. Best Faux Sheepskin Seat Cover: Maples Faux Sheepskin Wool Seat Cover

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Why we like it: The synthetic fur looks and feels just like genuine sheepskin. It’s a great alternative if you want the look without using an animal product.
Editor’s Rating:

Not everyone is comfortable with having the skin of an animal in their vehicle, and that’s okay. Fortunately, modern technologies have allowed manufacturers to create alternatives that are so close to the real thing that you can replace it altogether. This car seat cover looks like the posh sheepskin covers you see in fancy cars, but they’re completely synthetic.
Type of Sheepskin
The “sheepskin” on this cover is synthetic. Many synthetic covers have a chemical smell to them, but this one doesn’t. You won’t have to give it time to air out before you put it in your car.
The faux fur is incredibly soft and will feel a lot like the real thing. The hairs are about two inches long, so they have the furry look of other sheepskin covers.
Airbag Compatibility
The faux fur is only on the front side. The back is made of faux suede leather and is connected to the front with straps. Since the sides aren’t completely covered, the side airbags will be able to eject without being blocked.
Installation
Elastic bands are used to hold the cover in place. The front sits on top of the seat and then you can stretch the elastics around the chair to secure it.
Quality
Synthetic sheepskin is pretty sturdy and you don’t have to worry about whether or not it came from a single pelt, as it’s not authentic. However, one thing to note is that it doesn’t conduct body temperature quite as regular sheepskin does. You’ll feel warm in the winter, but you might feel warm in the summer, too.

Pros

Looks and feels like genuine sheepskin
Won’t have a harsh chemical smell
Easy to install
Compatible with side airbags

Cons

Might be too warm in the summer
It’s not real sheepskin

The Complete Guide to Buying the Best Sheepskin Seat Covers
Buying a sheepskin seat cover might seem like a simple thing to do. You just pick the fluffiest one, add it to the cart, and check out – right? You could if you don’t care about quality, but that’s absolutely something you should care about.
Real sheepskin isn’t cheap. You can definitely find some great deals online, but they’re still going to be more expensive than faux fur options. This is because sheepskin is durable, soft, and is highly sought after for luxury items like apparel and rugs.
Many companies try to market their “authentic” sheepskin as authentic when it’s in fact the opposite. Of course this deception is accompanied with authentic prices, making you think that something with that price tag couldn’t possibly be fake.
Real sheepskin has many benefits that synthetic wool doesn’t have, so we’ll break it down for you real quick in this guide. We’ll also explain how to determine real sheepskin from the faux stuff and which type of cover to choose for your vehicle.
Varieties of Sheepskin
Sheepskin is collected and treated in different ways to achieve specific looks and feels for particular products. Seat covers are typically all the same kind of sheepskin, which is long and thick. The following are different types of sheepskin:
Traditional
When you think of sheepskin, you’re probably thinking of the long and thick kind that you see on fancy coats or rugs. That’s the traditional long wool. This is what most car seat covers are made with because the untrimmed wool is soft and keeps you cool or warm depending on the season.
Curly
Short curly pelts come from curly-haired sheep. These sheep usually have long wool, but it’s trimmed to be very short so it can be used on blankets or clothing.
Infant Care
Sheepskin that’s used for baby blankets is specially treated and sanitized to prevent odor and bacterial growth. The wool usually comes from an entire lambskin pelt, so it’s smaller than other sheepskin blankets.
Medical-Grade
Sheepskin is often used for medical purposes because it can help control body temperature and improve air circulation. The wool is dense and short so it feels springy and works as an excellent seat cover for hospital beds and wheelchairs. Its specific tanning process allows it to be machine washable.
Pet-Grade
Sheepskin blankets for pets are made with lower-quality wool and the leather is allowed to have imperfections like cracks or holes. Even though flaws are allowed, it’s still a luxury item for pets.
Slink Skin
Slink skin comes from young lambs in New Zealand born in early spring who didn’t survive. The wool is curly and very fine and the leather is some of the softest leather available; it’s highly sought after and is considered quite luxurious.
Rest assured that lambskin only comes from natural casualties. Unfortunately, young lambs die every year because they weren’t strong enough to make it to warmer weather.
Twinface
This type of sheepskin is primarily used for the leather. It’s used for shoes and boots because the leather looks nice on the outside, and the wool feels comfortable on the inside.
How to Tell If the Sheepskin Is Real
It can be difficult to decipher whether sheepskin is real or not online. You’ll be able to tell once you have the product in your hands, however.
The best way to tell if a pelt is genuine is to look at where the wool is attached to the leather by spreading apart the individual hairs. If it’s genuine, you will see a smooth surface underneath the hair. You might occasionally find some scars, but it’s still genuine if it has any.
Synthetic wool is attached to leather with some other kind of material. It’s usually a mesh backing or another type of weak cloth. You’ll likely see grids between the wool and the leather. Genuine wool doesn’t need companion fabric to be attached to leather because it’s already attached.
Other ways to tell if a pelt is genuine is if:
You can tug on the wool and the hairs don’t fall out.
The leather is soft.
A single pelt is small (if it’s large, then several were sewn together).
You can pour water on it but it will still feel slightly dry.
Of course, shopping online doesn’t give you this chance, but we’ve been clear in our reviews which products are genuine sheepskin and which aren’t.
Durability
Sheepskin is incredibly durable. When you’re choosing a seat cover made of a genuine pelt, be sure you’re in love with it because with proper care, it can last a couple of decades or even longer.
The wool can bend thousands of times but it won’t break. That’s perfect for seat covers since they’ll constantly be sat on for long periods of time. Synthetic wool is more likely to have hair falling out of it and will have bare spots over time.
Genuine sheepskin is also water-resistant, so if you get a little clumsy and spill on it, it’s not the end of the world. Depending on how the seat cover was tanned, you might be able to put it in the washing machine.
Sheepskin Benefits
Sheepskin has a surprising number of health benefits. Faux fur doesn’t compare when it comes to benefits – it’s flammable, traps bacteria, and doesn’t insulate temperatures. Sheepskin, on the other hand, does many things that make it a great option to use in the car.
Regulates Your Body Temperature
A 3-inch pelt of wool might not sound appealing during the summer months, but it will actually help keep you cool. If you have a sheepskin seat cover in your car, it will prevent the hot seat from burning your legs and will help you quickly cool down once the air conditioner is turned on.
Wicks Away Moisture
Sheepskin can remove moisture from your skin. Since it also regulates body temperature, it’s a great way to cool down in the summer.
Sheepskin is typically used for medical purposes because it can prevent moisture from causing infections on the skin. Since it doesn’t trap bacteria, it’s a sanitary option for preventing moisture buildup.
Provides Circulation and Relief
Regulating body temperature helps improve your blood flow. Since the wool is thick, it evenly distributes your weight so pressure points won’t stop circulation. If your leg falls asleep while you drive, a seat cover or seat pad will give you relief.
The natural springy traits of sheepskin will conform to your body for extra comfort. The support offered by dense wool can help relieve aches and pains, especially on long road trips.
Hypoallergenic
Genuine sheepskin is treated with very few chemicals, if any, so they’re a great option for those with sensitive skin and allergies. It can even be soothing on eczema and rashes.
Maintenance
Sheepskin requires some maintenance to keep it fluffy and like new. The fur can go flat over time so regular brushing will help it stay standing up. Dirt can get trapped in it, so brushing it and shaking will help knock it loose.
If you spill something on your seat cover, act quickly to clean it up. Start with a dry towel to blot out the stain, and if that doesn’t work, use a damp cloth and sheepskin detergent. Regular soap has enzymes that’ll ruin the sheepskin, but specially made detergent won’t hurt it and will actually make it feel softer.
If you frequently dine in the driver’s seat, consider keeping some sheepskin detergent in your glove box. If stains can quickly become permanent if they aren’t cleaned up immediately.
Leaving baking soda on the messy area will absorb odors. After you spot clean an area, let it air dry instead of using the dryer or other heat sources.
Final Thoughts
A sheepskin seat cover is an aesthetic upgrade to your vehicle that comes with a string of benefits. They last a long time if well maintained, so they can be considered a long-term investment. Synthetic covers that don’t use sheepskin and merely mimic its effects are also good options, as “fake” sheepskin is very close in look and feel to the real thing, and doesn’t involve the use of animals. So, whether faux or real, a sheepskin cover of your choice will make your ride comfortable and cool. Enjoy our list. More

We hope it’s not a groundbreaking announcement, but we believe brakes are essential. The whole stopping thing tends to be a vital part of driving a car. Keeping the brakes in good working condition is one of those necessary things everyone working on cars has to do. One of the most common causes of brakes losing performance is air bubbles in the brake lines.
Any time you alter a component of the braking system or change the fluid, you risk introducing air into the lines. It can also happen naturally over time. To get the air out, you pull or push the fluid containing the air out of the system and replace it with fluid that has no bubbles. This is called bleeding your brakes and dedicated tools like the ones we are reviewing today make the process a lot easier.

Choosing the Right Tool for the Job
In this article, we are going to give you a quick buying guide, a top ten list with reviews, and an Buyer’s Guide at the end. Even though the reviews below are ranked, keep in mind that the most important thing is finding the best tool for your specific job.
There are a lot of different ways to bleed a brake system. Almost every product below takes a different approach, and that means choosing one for you will be about choosing the one that fits your situation more than the one that’s “the best.” In this section, before we begin the reviews, we’ll help you figure out how to pick that out.
What Does it Mean to Bleed Brakes Anyway?
In short, you are bleeding the air out of the brake lines. We’ll go through it more down below in our guide, but when you have anything in the brake lines aside from brake fluid, it’s bad. The kind of bad that means you try to come to a stop at a stoplight, and you don’t.
Push or Pull
There are two main ways to bleed a system. The first way is to push all the fluid out of the end of the line by pressurizing the start. Tools that attach to the master cylinder reservoir work in this manner. They push the fluid through the entire system and force the air out. When you bleed the lines without a tool by pressing on the peddle, it works a similar way. Tools that attach to bleeder screws at the end of the system pull the air out using suction. Usually that’s done with a small vacuum pump.
One way isn’t better than the other. Both will get the air out of your lines. Pressure systems are usually faster and easier to use but cost more. Vacuum systems take more work to use, but are more compact and work on a wider variety of systems. Pumping the pedals to build pressure instead of using a tool is really cheap, but it is a very frustrating experience.
Hand, Foot, or Air Compressor
There are a variety of ways to alter the pressure. Whether you are creating a vacuum to draw the fluid out or creating pressure to push the fluid out, you have options. The most common ways are to push on the pedal, operate a hand pump, or use an air compressor.
Foot Power
Traditionally when you bleed the brakes, you do so by stomping on the brake pedal a lot and pushing the fluid out. That’s still a popular way to do it, and we have several products on the list that are designed to make it easier to do alone.
Hand Power
Foot power isn’t the only way to bleed a system, though. Hand power is the most convenient way to power a pump. The Mityvac MV800 is powered by squeezing a trigger to draw a vacuum. This syringe style draw tool works by pulling on a plunger.
Our favorite unit, the Motive Products Power Pressure, works like a bike pump. The hand power units offer the convenience of using your foot with the convenience of not needing to be in two places at once. That makes them the best choice for the average home mechanic.
Air Compressor Powered
Units that use an air compressor are faster and more hardcore than hand pumps. That’s because air compressors use electricity, or sometimes fuel, to build huge amounts of pressure. Way more pressure than you’d want to build by hand, and they do it way faster. It’s a great option to grab a unit like the 8milelake Pneumatic Bleeder if you have an air compressor already. Unfortunately, air compressors are expensive, need to be plugged in, and the tools have to be fed by a hose.
Other Uses
There are tons of systems that benefit from having the air drawn out of them. Clutches often use hydraulic lines that need bleeding. Other systems need to be drained, and tools can help speed up the process. It’s easy to change the oil if you let a device pull all the oil out. Units like the Hydro-Turf are general-purpose fluid extractors, so you can change your oil, bleed your brakes, and change your coolant all with the same tool. It’s not the best at any of those things, but it can do them all. A dedicated bleeder that attaches to the master cylinder is pretty much only good for bleeding brakes.
Now that you know what to look for, here are our top 10 brake bleeder kits for 2020

Top 10 Best Brake Bleeding Kits 2020

1. Best Overall Pick: Motive Products Power Pressure Bleeder

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Why we like it: The Motive Pressure Bleeder is a completely dedicated brake fluid management tool. It’ll give you the most complete air extraction or fluid exchange you can get.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
First, we have an important note concerning whether or not it will fit your vehicle:
IMPORTANT
Motive offers a variety of products that are all the same except for a single hose adapter. The one we’ve listed is compatible with most asian-made vehicles as well as American cars made by Ford. There is also a version for GM vehicles as well as one that fits most European automobiles. Read the description to make sure. They sell a lot of different ones, not just the ones we listed. Get the one for your car, or you’ll have to order an adapter separately, and who has time for that.
With that warning out of the way, the Motive bleeder works by creating pressure and forcing fluid through your system from the top. The first step is to attach the included cap to your brake fluid reservoir. That cap is the part that’s different from car make to make, so make sure to get the one for your car. To get the pressure, pump it up by hand. Fill the fluid tank, and you are ready to go.
Sometimes things are just easier to understand visually, so here’s a video of it in action by Blakes Garage.
Who it’s Best For
The Motive bleeder is perfect for the type of person that performs as much car maintenance as they can at home. It’s for the DIY mechanics and driveway warriors who are not afraid to wrench the entire weekend away on a project car. If you are only planning on one brake job a year, the Motive is a little much, and this Mityvac is more your speed. However, if you are changing out the fluid after every spirited drive through the canyons, the Motive is a lifesaver.
Our Thoughts
There is a philosophy that extends throughout the DIY world, and that is the fear of the unitaskers. Every tool should fill multiple roles and be good at everything. If you want that, get this Hydro-Turf. It’s good enough, but that’s not the thinking behind the Motive Pressure Bleeder. The Motive is just really good at pushing fluid out of a bunch of hoses.
So good that it’s easily the most complete way to replace brake fluid and bleed a system. Everything else might be able to do it, but nothing else will do it as well or with as much control. Unless you want to pay crazy money for this premium tool, that still won’t be as convenient, but why would you.

Pros

Does the job of bleeding a system really, really well
Has adapters available for any car
Good quality parts

Cons

Really only good for bleeding brake and clutch lines
Setting it up is a bit complicated

2. Best Premium Pick: Mityvac MV6835

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Why we like it: If you want to pull out two quarts of fluid per minute effortlessly, the Mityvac MV6835 is the tool for you.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
This is the most complicated unit on our list, so the best way to understand how to use it is to watch this video by OLCTinfo.
The short of it is that you use compressed air to create suction. That suction pulls the fluid through a check valve (this is one of the only units that includes its own check valve) and into a large reservoir.
Who it’s Best For
Since you need an air compressor and you need a ton of set up time, this is really a tool that’s only good for someone that does a lot of work with brake fluids. If you are a weekend mechanic or an entry-level DIYer, you’ll be spending a lot of money for a system that you won’t get much use out of. Just grab a hand tool like the HTOMT and call it good enough.
Our Thoughts
If you have an air compressor and are comfortable with the brake fluid changing process, the Mityvac is a dream. You just squirt air through the unit and suck all the fluid out, the end. It’s really fast and holds a lot, which is pretty much useless if you’re just doing a quick bleed.
It’s hard to justify the cost. If you aren’t running a semi-pro or pro shop, it’s not worth it. You save a few minutes or so every corner, which adds up to hours if you do multiple services a week. An hour of shop time would pay for this unit twice. If you’re just an every so often kind of brake servicer, you could buy 5 HTOMTs and still be coming out ahead in value.

Pros

Fast
Automatic, you won’t have to hurt your hands or feet pumping
Holds a lot of fluid

Cons

It’s complicated, especially compared to other units
It’s expensive

3. Best Budget Pick: HTOMT 2 in 1

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Why we like it: The HTOMT is a perfectly acceptable bleeder kit that’s cheap. It includes a case that comes in 3 different colors. What more could you want?
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
Connect a tube to the bleeder screw, then connect the other side to the little reservoir. Connect another tube from the other side of the reservoir to the hand pump. Open the bleeder screw, then pump until it draws fluid into the reservoir. Keep going until all the air is out, but don’t let the Master Cylinder level get too low.
Like with the other units, we found you a video that shows the process of using this unit. This time it’s one by Ry the Car Guy, who gets a little long-winded. Very thorough, though. Just as a note, he uses the ABN vacuum, which is the same unit as the HTOMT. In fact, the same unit is labeled a hundred different things, it just depends on where you buy it.
Who it’s Best For
This tool is the right tool for the home mechanic that has to bleed a line every so often. It’s not great if you have to do a lot of brake work, the Motive is the tool for more hardcore use, but it’s perfect for an every so often thing.
It’s also cheap enough that even if you don’t plan on bleeding a system right now, you can pick one up and just have it as part of your kit just in case. Worst-case scenario, you can charge your friends a six-pack to borrow it and come out ahead.
Our Thoughts
This is the cheaper of the two hand pumps on our list. Compared to the Mityvac, the HTOMT is a bit lower in quality, takes a bit longer to work, and isn’t as comfortable. None of those make it bad, though.
This kit comes with all the adapters you could want, and it comes with its own case. That case might actually be what we like best about it. Most budget tools don’t include a way to store them, and with a tool like a brake bleeder that you’ll only use every so often, being in a case will keep it nice during the months between uses.
The only real issue is that the more you use this kit, the more you’ll notice the lack of quality. They get sloppy over time and will lose vacuum power. As we said before, if you are doing a lot of fluid changing just get the Motive, don’t bother with a tiny hand pump. If you want to stick with a hand pump, just replace the HTOMT when it breaks. They are so cheap, it’s not worth fixing them.

Pros

Inexpensive
Easy to use
Comes with a case

Cons

Quality could be better
HTOMT isn’t a “real” brand, and you can find the same unit all over the place with a different brand label

4. Best High Capacity Bleeder: Hydro-Turf Oil Extractor

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Why we like it: The Hydro-Turf Oil Extractor has so many uses it’s hard not to like. Change your oil, change your brake fluid, even water your roses. It can do it all.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
Connect a hose to the bleed screw, and connect the other to the extractor. Use the hand pump to build a vacuum inside the extractor, and then treat it just like any smaller vacuum pump. What you need to pay attention to is the fluid leaving the caliper when you disconnect it. Unless you use a valve like the Motion Pro, the system can suck air back into the lines when the vacuum is released.
More importantly, keep an eye on the reservoir for the master cylinder. The Hydro-Turf will suck the entire system dry in a matter of minutes. Accidentally replacing all of your fluid with air while trying to get rid of a few bubbles is the definition of suck.
Who it’s Best For
A large fluid extractor like the Hydro-Turf has tons of uses. If you have a small shop and hate unitaskers, it’s great to have tools like a large extractor. Especially if you are here looking for a bleeder, and you don’t have an oil extractor already, you should get this one.
Oil extractors will change the way you do maintenance forever. You just suck all the oil out of the dipstick tube into the easy-pour container. No crawling in the dirt to get the freeze plug out, pouring hot oil all over your hands and driveway when it misses the drain pan.
Our Thoughts
There are better oil extractors on the market. We’ve even written about them before; products like the Topsider are more suited for oil changing. There are also better bleeders out there, like the Motive we list.
However, even though there are better tools for each of the jobs, there are no other units that fill both roles so conveniently. The Hydro-Turf is lightweight, needs no power tools, and has a good-sized pump that makes it easy to draw out a lot of fluid.
It’s a bit unfriendly if all you want to do is bleed brakes, though. There are some difficulties with tube sizing, and it will require some DIY to get it to function well. Using it for bleeding also carries the genuine risk that you will accidentally suck way too much fluid out of your system. You have to be really vigilant if you use it as a general-purpose vacuum pump.

Pros

Large capacity
Fast
Great for other things as well

Cons

Requires some DIY if you don’t have standard bleed screws
There are easier ways to bleed a brake system

5. Best Hand-Powered Vacuum Bleeder: Mityvac MV800

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Why we like it: The Mityvac MV800 is simple, bulletproof, and universal.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
The Mityvac MV800 is a simple hand vacuum pump. You connect a hose to your brake line that goes to a reservoir, then you connect the reservoir to the tool. Squeeze the handle a bunch to draw a vacuum and watch it suck fluid and air into the reservoir.
Check out our guide here for general brake bleeding practices or watch this video by Pet Rock’s Garage, he uses the exact same model.
Who it’s Best For
The MV800 is the perfect tool for someone that probably won’t bleed brake lines very often but still wants a good quality tool they can rely on. A simple vacuum pump like this Mityvac has many uses, but the time it takes to draw the fluid will lead to hand cramps. If you have to do a lot of operations every year, it will make you wish you had a pneumatic tool like this one.
Our Thoughts
There are two hand vacuum pumps on our list. This is the more expensive one. The other, the HTOMT, works fine. It will hold a vacuum, draw out fluid, and probably have an adapter that fits on your caliper. It’s cheaper and comes with a case, too. Why would you get the Mityvac if the cheaper HTOMT would suffice? It’s because the Mityvac will last you through your tenth time using it, and the ergonomics of it are way better.
It has a trigger release for the air pressure instead of a funky hard to press button, and it has contoured handles instead of hard, flat metal ones. The fittings are a little more durable than the HTOMT’s, and it can draw a vacuum just a bit faster. In short, it’s more expensive, but your hands will appreciate it more.

Pros

Good quality
Easy to use
Comes with a large variety of attachments

Cons

Isn’t good for a large volume of fluid
More expensive than similar tools

6. Best Air Compressor Powered Bleeder: 8milelake Pneumatic Bleeder

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Why we like it: The 8milelake Pneumatic Bleeder is another perfectly acceptable bleeder, and is similar to the HTOMT. It’s air-powered instead of hand-powered, so the likelihood of hand cramps are much lower.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
The 8milelake Pneumatic Bleeder works like the hand vacuum units like the HTOMT, it just uses an air compressor to “pump” instead of your fingers. You connect a hose that runs from the bleeder screw to the unit, then squeeze the trigger.
The compressed air creates a venturi, which creates a vacuum and sucks the fluid and bubbles right out of the system. Just be aware, just like with other budget units, this one has no check valve.
Supercheap Auto, who you likely know of in the US because they sponsor the Mighty Car Mods, did this video on a similar unit. They call it a Toledo, but like with the HTOMT and Pittsburg Tools, the Toledo and the 8milelake are the same thing.
Who it’s Best For
It’s best for anyone with the same requirements as the HTOMT unit, but who has an air compressor handy. It’s not a unit for doing a ton of fluid changes, it’s just good for a brake service every so often. If you want to use air pressure and need to do a ton of fluid work, get the big Mityvac. It’s got check valves and accessories that make everything faster.
Our Thoughts
If you have an air compressor handy, the 8milelake is a great unit. It has all the convenience and fluid extracting power of a hand pump without the cramps. The reservoir is slightly bigger too, so you can pull out more fluid. That means this is one of the faster tools on this list. Honestly, since it’s powered by an air compressor, that’s exactly what you’d expect.
The price is what really sets this one apart. It’s cheap. Partly because it’s a rebranded Harbor Freight tool. This means the old adage “you get what you pay for” rings true, just like with anything from HF. It’ll probably work, but it also might break after the 4th use. It’s easy to replace, though, since they are dirt cheap.

Pros

Fast
Easy to use for a pneumatic unit
Inexpensive

Cons

Quality could be better
Easy to accidentally let air back into the system since it’s fast and has no check valve

7. Best Simple Brake Bleeding Tool: Motion Pro One Way Valve

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Why we like it: You can use the Motion Pro by itself, but what really makes it shine is if you use it with another tool. A one-way valve makes any fluid change or bleeding procedure easier.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
You connect the valve to the bleeder valve with a hose. Make sure the arrow is pointing the right way. What it does is make sure that you can’t suck air back into the line, eliminating the need to keep a constant eye on the container you are draining into. As long as you keep the cylinder reservoir full, you can just flush fluid out forever and know you’ll eventually get rid of all the air.
It works just fine alone, just drain into a bucket or something. Where it really shines, though, is in conjunction with other pumps. Bleeders like the HTOMT or the Bleed-O-Matic don’t have built-in one-way valves, so you can speed up the process by running the Motion Pro in line with them.
Who it’s Best For
It’s our opinion that if you work on cars, you should have one of these in your toolbox. They are cheap, work in a huge variety of applications, and make a perfect backup when you can’t find your HTOMT vacuum pump.
Our Thoughts
The Motion Pro one way valve is such a simple unit there isn’t much to say about it. It’s a small metal thingamajig with a hose on each side, and it only allows stuff to travel through it in one direction. It does everything it claims, and the likelihood of it failing for no reason is minuscule. Unless you run something sticky or chunky through it, it will work. Don’t do that.
Even though this costs more than the Bleed-O-Matic, it’s more useful. You don’t need a dedicated catch bottle. An old Monster can works fine as a container, and with the check valve, it’s easy to bleed the brakes solo.

Pros

Infinitely useful
Not likely to ever break
Inexpensive

Cons

Easy to lose
Using it by itself takes a bit of practice.

8. Easiest to Use: OEM Tools Bleed-O-Matic

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Why we like it: The Bleed-O-Matic has a really cool name. More importantly, it’s a very simple, very easy to use brake bleeder.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
Hook the bottle to the bleed screw with the hose. Pump the brakes a few times, then open the bleed screw until the air is out. You will probably have to do that multiple times per caliper. You can also just let gravity do all the work. If you vent the top of the system and keep the reservoir full, the fluid will slowly drain into the bottle. Eventually, the air will work it’s way out. That’s probably the slowest way to bleed a system, though.
The Error Code Guy has a video where he uses one here, and you can hear his frustration through the entire thing. We disagree with some of his findings, it’s totally doable if you are alone, but it does illustrate really well the limitations of this kind of kit.
Who it’s Best For
Need to bleed a brake system and only have like $10 to do it? Here you go. Honestly, you might as well grab one for any system. It makes a convenient catch tank that you can use for many different vacuum or pressure tools. If you can work it into your plan, get a one-way valve like the Motion Pro to use with the tank. You can just open the bleed screw and pump the brakes until the air is out without running back and forth that way.
Our Thoughts
It’s hard to have thoughts about a tool that is little more than a magnet attached to a bottle with a straw. It does what it says. It’s the slowest, most frustrating thing to use because you’ll be running between the master cylinder, the brake pedal, and the bleed screw the entire time it drains. It does what it says it does, though, and you can do a whole brake fluid flush by yourself.
Get the HTOMT to have a better time. It’s twice as much, but it’s approximately 100 times less frustrating. Get the Bleed-O-Matic if you plan on doing like one brake job ever. After, either throw away the thing, or add it to your toolbox to be used as an oil applicator.

Pros

Cheap
Very, very straightforward to use
Makes a good addition to other units

Cons

Takes forever to bleed a system
Unless you use a check valve, you risk introducing air into the system if the pressure depletes

9. Best Syringe Style Extractor: ARES 70920

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Why we like it: There are two great reasons to love the ARES 70920. First, it’s great for small capacity jobs. Second, you get to feel like a doctor.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
Stick the hose on the bleed screw. Start to open the bleed screw and then pull the plunger to suck the fluid out.
Bleeding brakes isn’t what it’s most useful for, though. It can do it, but what it’s good at is sucking all the fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir when doing a fluid change or flush. Especially if you have a reservoir that is hard to get too. We’re looking at you owners of old VWs.
Who it’s Best For
Along with the Motion Pro, the ARES is another tool we just think every person who works on cars should have. It has a million uses. You can add fluid to a hard to reach spot, you can suck up samples from places like the rear differential, and you can bleed smaller systems much faster than a vacuum pump can.
Our Thoughts
It’s probably painfully obvious at this point, but we love tools that have a lot of uses. Most people are limited by the amount of space they have to work with, so something small and infinitely useful is perfect. Especially since it comes with a detachable hose and is easy to take apart. Some units are all one piece, or difficult to break down. That makes keeping them clean a nightmare. The ARES is robust and easy to clean, so you won’t feel bad tossing it into a drawer with other tools.
They are also partnered with the ASPCA, which is a weird perk to include with an automotive tool. If you love animals, then why not support companies that support causes you like?

Pros

Easy to clean
Good for hard to reach areas
Has a good capacity for a syringe style unit

Cons

It’s a bit on the expensive side for a simple tool
It can bleed brakes, but there are way better ways to do that.

10. Best Total Brake Service Kit: Performance Tool W180

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Why we like it: This entry-level brake tool kit comes with a Bleed-O-Matic like device, and a bunch of other stuff you probably want to have on hand if you are working on your brakes.
Editor’s Rating:

How to Use It
The bleed tool itself works just like the Bleed-O-Matic. You attach the bottle to your caliper, open the fitting and pump the brakes until there are no more bubbles.
The rest of the tools are for all sorts of different things. The piston tool is great for changing brake pads on disc brakes, the spring tool is essential for servicing drum brakes, and the pry bar will somehow find its way into every project you take on.
Who it’s Best For
The new mechanic who decided that they want to take a journey into the world of automotive repair. Someone who doesn’t have the money to buy all the parts separately. Someone who saw the price tag on the cheap HTOMT pump and were worried they would still need to buy a spring tool. The neophyte that will use all the included tools exactly once before deciding it wasn’t worth it to skimp out, and will go back over this list right after they finish their first caliper replacement.
Our Thoughts
If you’re bleeding brake lines, you are probably doing other brake work as well. Something like replacing a caliper, adjusting shoes, or repairing a damaged line. All those tasks require special tools that the average new mechanic won’t have. This kit has those special tools.
They are low-quality garbage, sure. That doesn’t mean they aren’t useful, especially the pry bars. You’ll find yourself using those for anything. Opening a paint can, popping off dash components, stabbing a hole in a grease container after the tab breaks off, really the uses are limitless. That makes it worth it alone, and if you do one brake job with the pliers, then the set has paid for itself.

Pros

Includes all the tools for brake work
Simple and easy to use
Inexpensive

Cons

Quality is questionable
There are definitely better options if you just care about bleeding lines

Guide to Brake Bleeding
You made it down to this section? Awesome. Welcome, now that you’ve chosen the best brake bleeding tool for you, we are sure you’d like to know more about bleeding brakes. Maybe you haven’t decided yet, and you still just want more info to make a decision. Either way is fine with us. Things like “why” and “how” are great things to know about, so let’s look at that.
Brake Bleeding is an Important Part of Maintaining Your Car
Whenever you change a brake component, whether you are upgrading a part or replacing a part, you introduce air into the system. It is also just something that happens over time as the fluid breaks down or components leak just a little.
Air compresses, and that means that instead of the fluid pushing on your brake components when you press on the pedal, you will just be compressing the air. If you have a lot of air in your brake system, your brakes won’t work.
Brake Bleeding Frequency
The average car just needs a good brake bleed about once a year to stay up to speed. If you do a lot of driving, consider upping that to every six months.
Also, any time you change a component like a caliper or line, bleed the entire system. Any time you have to add fluid, you should bleed the system. Before every race, if you are into that sort of thing, you should bleed the system just in case. Nothing is more embarrassing than boiling your brakes on the first lap just because you were too lazy to spend 5 minutes refreshing the fluid.
Flushing Your Brake Fluid
Cars.com recommends changing your brake fluid between every 3-years and never. That’s more or less a roundabout way of saying, “check your manual.”
However, we at AQ understand that there’s a difference between regular service, and the type of service you perform to make your car better. Flush your brake fluid more frequently than the manual recommends if you do a lot of spirited driving and boil your brake fluid often. Especially if you take it to a track or do a lot of AutoX events, you will probably want to change your fluid as often as you change your pads.
Choosing a Brake Fluid
If you are doing a lot of driving, live in a hot area, or plan on racing, there are high-performance brake fluids like the Brembo LCF600 or the AP Racing R series that will suit your needs better. More expensive, higher quality fluids will have a higher boiling point, meaning they will break down slower and work longer under intense driving situations.
Your car won’t really benefit from such high-performance fluid. You shouldn’t be driving your daily ride hard enough to boil standard brake fluid, and you’ll just be wasting money if you buy the expensive stuff. If you are taking a “trip to Mexico,” the expensive fluids can be the difference between stopping with your brakes or stopping because you hit a tree.
How to Bleed Brakes
We hate it when “read the manual” is an answer to so many questions, but read the owner’s manual first. You may also want to check out our step-by-step guide to bleeding brakes. In general, you will start with the furthest point away from the master cylinder. That’s the passenger rear wheel on most cars. It might not be, and that’s why you have to read the manual.
Once you are at the furthest point, locate the “bleeder screw.” All hydraulic systems have one, and most have many. On disc brakes, it’s on top of the caliper; on drum brakes, they like to hide it behind the dust cover. Clean the area really thoroughly before hooking anything up. Pro Tip: cover the bleed screw in brake line safe grease to avoid accidentally sucking air.
When it’s clean, hook a hose to the bleed valve and follow the instructions on whatever kit you are using. Suck fluid until the air bubbles stop, then close the screw. Move to the next furthest point, which is the driver’s side rear wheel on most cars and repeat the process. Work your way up to the very last point, then you’re done.
We included a lot of videos in the descriptions of each product that go through the entire process, like this one, so check there if you prefer more visual learning.
Do You Need A Special Tool at All?
No. You’ll notice that a lot of the tools specify that they just make it easier to do a brake fluid change alone. That might lead you to believe that if you’re willing to do things the hard way, you don’t need a tool at all, and you can save money by rigging something up. You’d be totally right. Mechanics all over the world do entire brake services with nothing but an old Powerade bottle and some leftover fuel line.
A cheap vacuum pump is like $20, though, and will cut the amount of time it takes to bleed a brake system in half. Honestly, that’s probably too conservative an estimate. It can take hours to bleed a system while a dedicated tool can do it in minutes. You can save money on the tool, but how much is your time worth?
Maintaine Brakes Offer Better Stopping Power
Brakes are important. Don’t take our word for it, try driving without them for a while. Actually, don’t do that. We don’t endorse driving without brakes. You know full well that brakes are essential.
Servicing your brakes and keeping them in top working condition is one of the most satisfying pieces of maintenance you can do to your ride. Grab one of the excellent tools up there and get wrenching! More

We here at AutoQuarterly are big fans of telling you about how awful your factory sound system is. Whether we are laying out the amps you have to have or the speakers you should have bought already, there’s no end to the car audio upgrade journey.
That journey starts with the head unit; it’s the master control station for the rest of the components. Modern touch screen stereos are an entire home theater in a box. They turn your car into a total entertainment system. If you’re looking for a big screen in a compact package, a head unit with a flip-out screen is your best bet. Keep reading for our top picks.

The Ins and Outs of Flip Out Screens
Here’s the problem. A lot of older cars don’t have room for modern, double DIN stereo systems. Even some newer cars don’t. That sucks because the contemporary world is all about touchscreens, and touchscreens take up a lot of dash real estate. That’s where the flip-out head comes in. It’s got all the functions of a beautiful modern screen, where you can watch videos or control your playlists like a DJ, and none of the additional space requirements.
The Advantages of a Flip-Out Screen
There are a lot of touch screen stereos, so what makes a flip-out screen appealing? There aren’t nearly as many options, and they are more likely to break. It seems like you’d be better off just going for a big fixed screen. Well, hold on, there are a few big advantages to the flip-out design.
They Are More Compact
Flip-out screens are a feature of single DIN units. That means they are compatible with a lot more vehicles, especially older vehicles. If you don’t have enough space for a double-DIN setup, but you still want a big screen, your options are limited. You either get a “floating screen” style unit or the flip-out style.
The advantage that flip-out screens have over floating screens is that they can be retracted. On older cars or cars that weren’t designed to have a display, a screen can block other things like the a/c controls. It’s nice to just retract the screen, make your adjustments, then bring it back.
They Attract Less Attention
Not everyone wants the world to know that they have a nice stereo. When you retract the screen on a flip-out, it looks just like any old cheap head unit. That’s good if you are trying to keep the look of your interior simple. If you want your original 90s ride to still look period correct, flip outs are a great option.
It’s also good if you are worried about people with sticky fingers. Thieves are much less likely to notice a nice stereo if it doesn’t have a giant screen advertising that it’s a nice piece of equipment. Many single DIN units even feature removable faceplates for extra security.
Inputs and Outputs
Probably the most important feature when choosing any head unit is the input. A stereo is mighty useless if it won’t play the songs you want to listen to. The second most important feature is output. If you have an amp driving a monster sub so you can shake the world, and you buy a head unit with no sub outputs, well, that’d be bad.
If you want to know more about inputs and outputs, head down to our complete buyer’s guide.
Common Inputs
Bluetooth
AM/FM Radio
HD Radio
AUX In
USB
Backup Camera
RCA
Common Outputs
High-level, your standard speaker wires
Low-level/RCA, your preamp outputs for an amplifier
Sub, a dedicated output for a subwoofer
Video
USB for charging
Android Auto and Apple CarPlay
If you use a cell phone, it’s probably an Android or Apple product. Each OS has its own dedicated car system for using apps, listening to music, and making calls while in motion. It’s uncommon to find these features in flip-out units. If you really value these apps, be prepared to shell out the money for units like the Pioneer 3400 head unit we recommend.
Quality
When we talk about quality concerning stereos, there are two main categories: sound quality and build quality. Sound quality is all about clarity of the audio and the amount of power you can get from the head unit. Build quality is pretty straightforward. How well do the buttons work, how fast it boots up, how many times can the screen retract before the hinges break, etc.
As a rule, you have to pay for quality. That also means sticking to bigger brands is a good idea if you want a reliable, good sounding unit. Unfortunately, many big brands, like JVC and Alpine, just don’t make flip-out options. All is not lost, though; we have a great range of quality and cost in the recommendation section.
The Little Things
Most of the major players all have the inputs and outputs you could want. To narrow down the best unit for your car, you have to look at the minor quality of life features. Things like: style, screen resolution, screen type, color, DVD/CD formats, USB charging, etc. Most of these things are secondary to function. If it doesn’t have the input you want, it doesn’t matter how good it looks.
There are a couple of little things that are worthy of a closer look. Steering wheel inputs are important if you have steering wheel controls and want to keep them. Equalizers are great for balancing your sound levels. Color-changing faceplates and background can help you add style to your dashboard.
There’s a lot of junk on the market, but we combed through everything and found ten great options for you.

Top 10 Best Flip Out Head Units 2020

1. Best Overall Flip-Out Head Unit: BOSS BV9979B

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Why we like it: BOSS nailed it with the perfect balance between a great price and a high number of functions without sacrificing build quality.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Preamp outputs
Aux, USB, SD, and Bluetooth inputs
Video output for extra screens
Equalizer
Remote control
Reasons to Buy
BOSS is a big name in the car audio world. If you check any of our articles on amps or speakers, you’ll see them come up. Usually, though, they never take the top spot. They are so well known for just being good enough. The price is right, but they never quite overcome the drawbacks of the sacrificed features to get that price.
The BV9989B is one of the exceptions. It’s not the highest quality, the Pioneer on this list easily eclipses it in that category. It isn’t the least expensive, that’d be the Regetek.
What it is is the perfect balance between them all. You get all the features that a high-end unit offers, like subwoofer outputs and video inputs. You get an easy to use touch screen that won’t snap off if you accidentally set your drink on it. It can even change color to match your interior.
It also has some great features that are rare on even the more expensive units. It has steering wheel inputs on the back, too. If you have steering wheel controls, it’s as simple as plugging in the right wires. It has automatic backup camera functionality and A/V inputs to hook up external players. If you ever wanted to pull up to a meet and chill out playing the original Forza on your dash, the BOSS gives you all the hookups.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
Even with all the praise we give the BOSS for its features, we can’t ignore a few issues that might cause you to look at other units. It has some minor inconveniences. The screen is not as high def as others, especially not compared to the Jensen down the list.
It’s also a bit slow. It’s not unusable or anything, but we live in a world where the average cell phone puts the computers of 10 years ago to shame. You will notice that the BOSS just takes a little while longer to do things like start and switch modes.
If you are an audiophile, though, the biggest problem you’ll have is sound quality. It’s not bad, but it doesn’t make the claimed 85-watts. It’s got low-level outputs, so it’s totally ready to be plugged into an amp. It just isn’t as powerful as most of the other options on the list.
It also doesn’t have the construction quality to produce ultra-clear sound, you will get distortion at higher volumes. Again, if you want better sound from this unit, run an amp. It’s basically begging for it.

Pros

Inexpensive
A lot of output options
The screen has good feedback and resolution
Lots of input options

Cons

Sound quality could be better
Load times can be slow, especially when switching inputs

2. Best Premium Flip-Out Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-3400

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Why we like it: The Pioneer AVH-3400 is one of the best sounding flip-out head units you can buy. It also comes with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
RCA outputs
Automatic and preset equalizer
Bluetooth
Full display customization
HD Radio ready
Pandora and Spotify ready
Android and Apple compatible
Reasons to Buy
When you travel around audio circles and see Pioneer, you know two things: the sound is going to be amazing, and it’s going to be expensive. The AVH-3400 is no exception.
It supports everything. Apple CarPlay and Android Auto? Yup. Satellite radio? Yup. Pandora and Spotify? They are installed on the unit, and you can run them off a WiFi signal without a cell phone present. It works with Siri, it has voice command calling, and you can plug any device into it.
The biggest reason to get the AV-3400 is quality. It is hands down the best sounding head unit on this list. It’s also the most well built. Pioneer wouldn’t put their name on it if it wasn’t.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
There are a few nitpicky things. The menus can be a little hard to navigate. There’s a lot of features, and some of them are buried under layers of menus. Also, it is a bit hard to use with the screen closed. If that seems like a really minor complaint, that is because it is. It’s hard to criticize such a nice stereo head unit. The only way to get better options is to leave the single-din world behind.
Except for the most significant drawback that the Pioneer has, that is. You could buy 4 BOSS units for the same price. Now, we are not saying that the audio and build quality isn’t worth it. If sound is your passion, there’s no reason to compromise. It just hurts to see the number.

Pros

Amazing quality
Apple Car Play and Android Auto read
Full range of inputs, including HD radio
Full range of outputs

Cons

Very expensive
Buttons are hard to press when the screen is closed

3. Best Budget Flip Out-Head Unit: Regetek 7”

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Why we like it: The Regetek is a perfectly acceptable head unit with an ok screen that is less than $100.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
USB Fast Charger
No CD/DVD player
Subwoofer output
Reasons to Buy
Let’s start with the best part about the Regetek: it’s cheap. We are talking less than half the price of most things on this list cheap. It’s also simple. Really simple. Once you pair your phone with it, that’s pretty much the end of the interactions. Your phone will be doing all the hard work.
Despite being cheap, the Regetek has some really neat features. It’s ready to accept a backup camera, and you can hook up additional screens. The screen resolution is actually one of the highest on this list, boasting full HD. It’s not, but it still has a nice screen for the price. See our note here on resolutions.
The audio quality is fine too. It’s not top tier, and you can’t play CDs, but unlike a lot of other units, it accepts FLAC as an audio format. Honestly, the Regetek really represents how far cheap gadgets have come over the last decade. It’s a generic, cheap head unit, but it can do most of the things that the big players can do.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
When you think of sacrifices to make in order to cut costs, a lot of things come to mind. Regetek chose as many of them as they could, and it shows. The screen is low resolution, there are no apps, and you have to pull out the screen manually. That last one is a little insane and might be a deal-breaker. It just can’t do very much, especially not compared to other budget units like the BOSS or the Power Acoustik.

Pros

Inexpensive
Supports FLAC
Has reverse camera input

Cons

Very low on features
Screen has to be pulled out manually

4. Best Easy To Use Flip-Out Head Unit: Power Acoustik PID-8920B

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Why we like it: The Power Acoustic has big friendly icons and a great, easy to use interface.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
Subwoofer outputs
Backup camera inputs
USB, SD, and Aux inputs
Reasons to Buy
It’s hard not to compare the Power Acoustik directly to the BOSS. They occupy the same price point, have similar features, and look very similar. When you compare them, it becomes obvious why the BOSS deserved a top spot, but the Power Acoustik doesn’t. There isn’t much that the Power Acoustik does better.
It does shine through in a few areas. It’s easier to use than the BOSS. BOSS has a bit of a habit of over-simplifying their menus to the point of frustration. In contrast, the Power Acoustic has big friendly icons and straightforward settings. Part of the reason the Power Acoustic is easier to use is that it’s much simpler. That’s a good thing if you just want to listen to your music and not fiddle with anything. If you never touch the bass EQ on your current unit and want to upgrade to a CD/DVD player with a screen, then the PID is an excellent purchase.
Power Acoustik is a brand carried by a lot of companies, used by a lot of people, and very well documented online. That’s often the deciding factor when it comes to these picking a head unit. A more popular unit is just less likely to cause you trouble, and don’t you have enough trouble in your life?
Reasons to Pick Something Else
Like we said above, there isn’t much that the Power Acoustic does better than the BOSS. It only has bass preamp outputs, not the full range. It doesn’t have steering inputs, and it doesn’t have BOSS’s online support.
The biggest reason to shy away from this unit is the simplicity we mentioned above. If you like simple, then it’s not an issue. If you want control over your sound profiles, though, then you are out of luck. This is the only flip-out head on this list without an equalizer.

Pros

Inexpensive
Very easy to use
The software is very clean and nice-looking

Cons

Low on input and output options
No equalizer

5. Best Looking Flip-Out Head Unit: Pyle In Dash 7”

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Why we like it: It’s a very good looking device that delivers a good amount of power.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
Smart device compatibility
High powered for a head unit
RCA outputs
Backup camera support
HD radio capable
Reasons to Buy
The first thing that stands out about this in-dash entertainment system is that it looks great. Even with the screen tucked away, it’s got a modern, carbon-fiber finish. It’s also got all the right features: low-level outputs, backup camera support, sound profile settings, etc. You won’t be left wanting.
The other thing you will really enjoy about the Pyle is the screen. It’s a little old school nowadays, but they put a lot of effort into the full-color display. Don’t be fooled; they claim “HD” but there’s actually nothing on this list with a true HD display, except for maybe the Pioneer here that uses your own phone as the screen. We wrote about that down the page. What it does have is a really nice screen driver that allows for a ton of color and sharpness.
You can also change the face colors and the screen backgrounds, so it fits your dash theme. Like we said, this is a good looking unit no matter how you slice it. If you have trouble deciding between a few different options, that style might be enough to sway you.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
It costs too much for what it is. At the risk of being too blunt, the reason it doesn’t rank higher is because of the price. Yes, it does everything you can want, and it has good quality, but so does the BOSS.The BOSS costs a lot less, though.
The Pyle can also be a bit frustrating. The Bluetooth isn’t as advanced as other options, especially not the Jensen on our list. That leads to annoying things like having to reconnect every time you power the unit on. Having a picky Bluetooth system wouldn’t be a deal-breaker if not for the fact that you will really be relying on it. It doesn’t have very many inputs. There’s no SD slot or RCA input, so you will really need that Bluetooth for modern audio streaming.

Pros

Good looking
Good audio quality
High powered

Cons

Bluetooth can be picky
Expensive for the quality

6. Best Alternative Budget Flip-Out Unit: Sound Storm Labs SD726

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Why we like it: The Sound Storm is a budget option with a CD/DVD player and good audio control.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
SD, USB, and Aux inputs
Backup camera compatibility
Steering wheel control
Full preamp outputs
Reasons to Buy
If you saw the price and features of the Regetek, but couldn’t stand the idea of not having a CD/DVD player, then the Sound Storm is perfect. In addition to the CD/DVD player, Sound Storm also gives you a full set of low-level outputs to hook it straight into your amplifiers.
It’s also a good unit if you want something that looks way more expensive than it is. Unlike a lot of the straight from China, brand swappable units all over the internet, the Sound Storm has bold logos and bright lights. The screen is nice enough, and the software is a bit more polished than the generic Android-based systems that you find when you go too cheap.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
The SSL will do what you need if you want a basic unit with an ok screen that doesn’t cost very much. If that’s what you are looking for, stop reading and buy it. You’ll be fine.
What you really can’t expect from it is good quality. The audio signal isn’t noise-free, so you will get distortion at higher volumes. It’s built to be cheap, too, so the buttons and knobs feel cheap. The screen wobbles sometimes and isn’t as sturdy as you probably want it to be. In short, the whole thing feels cheap because it is. We hate to keep repping the BOSS, but if you want just a bit more quality, spend a bit more and get the BOSS.
It does have a 3-year warranty. Even if it feels cheap, you can at least rest easy knowing that it’s simple to replace if it does break.

Pros

Inexpensive
low-level outputs
3-year warranty

Cons

Build quality isn’t great
Audio quality isn’t great either

7. Best Bluetooth Focused Flip-Out Unit: Jensen CMR3710

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Why we like it: The Jensen has no CD/DVD player and no extra inputs. It focuses on being a Bluetooth powerhouse.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
Backup camera compatible
Preamp outputs
Robust equalizer
Reasons to Buy
The Jensen CMR3710 is a solid unit with good audio quality. It compares most easily to the Regetek. They both don’t have a CD/DVD player, and they both focus on Bluetooth. The Jensen is just a higher quality option. It’s built better and has better audio quality. The screen is nicer, the outputs have less noise, and it’s better suited for running amplifiers.
The Bluetooth is excellent. It’s just a bit easier to use than everything else, has a bigger range, and the software controls on the screen are really well done. It’s effortless to make calls. This is probably the only unit that rivals apps like CarPlay and Android Auto in terms of phone controls.
Finally, the audio quality is really good for the price. It’s not Pioneer good, but it’s better than the BOSS. That’s helped by the fact that the Jensen has an 8-band EQ and a 6-channel low-level output. If you are running amplifiers, the Jensen is ready.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
The first thing is a little bit of a strange one. Jensen is a good company that used to be well known for its great audio components. In fact, if you bought a new Jeep in the 80s or early 90s, it would have a Jensen stereo system. Since the early 90s, though, they have been bought and sold a lot. Most recently, they became a subsidiary of Dual, who is BOSS’s biggest competitor.
That’s a lot of exposition all to say that it can be hard to find support for Jensen units nowadays, and their quality control is not as good as it once was. They have online support that will replace units that break, but don’t expect to troubleshoot an issue with customer service, and don’t expect your friends to know what the heck it is.
Also, the parking brake safety feature can make you want to hit things. It has a wire that needs to be connected to a parking brake switch so that it locks you out of some features while you are driving. That’s not unusual; almost every head unit does that. The Jensen is just a little bit draconian about it. You’ll be searching for a way to disable it after about a week of using it.

Pros

Very nice screen
Good software
Bluetooth works great

Cons

Jensen does not have very much support
Parking brake safety feature can be picky

8. Best Cheap Total Package: CarThree Single DIN Touch Screen with Backup Camera

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Why we like it: This super cheap unit comes with a backup camera.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
Backup camera included
A/V inputs
USB and Aux input
Subwoofer output
Reasons to Buy
The CarThree 7 inch has a surprisingly good screen for such an inexpensive option. I mean, sure, you have to push the screen in manually just like the Regetek, but it looks good for being so cheap. Cheap is the operative word. The whole box with the camera and the unit is less than everything else on the list.
That’s really all there is to it. It’s super cheap, plays music, and includes a backup camera in the box. Enough said.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
On some level, every person knows what they are getting into when they buy a cheap piece of generic tech. The quality might be exceptional, but it also might be garbage. It depends on the day. The software will be slow, the audio quality will be meh, and there will be strange little problems here and there. If you are in a hurry to watch the 2 Fast 2 Furious in your car while waiting for a mocha frappe, don’t rely on this unit.
This head unit is a fine choice for bargain hunters looking for a lot of features at an impossibly low price. Just know what you are getting into. It’s not meant to be high quality. It’s meant to be cheap. Spend the extra on the BOSS if you want everything to be easy, or shell out big money for the Pioneer.

Pros

Cheap
Includes a backup camera
Has a decent screen

Cons

Cheap
Limited customer support

9. Best Ultra-Compact Head Unit: Pioneer SPH10BT

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Why we like it: It uses your phone as the screen, meaning it’s likely the highest quality, most feature-rich screen on the list.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
No CD, Aux, or SD input
Bluetooth
Fast charge USB port
Pop-out phone cradle
Reasons to Buy
This is another Pioneer for the list, but it’s totally different from the audio behemoth above. First of all, it’s ¼ the price. Second, it’s incredibly, incredibly simple. It’s a box with 6 buttons. That’s it. It doesn’t even have a screen. That might make it a weird thing to include on this list, but let us explain.
Instead of a screen, it has a retractable cradle for your phone. It turns the phone you already have into the ultimate audio head unit using Bluetooth. If you have a modern cell phone, that means this little unit actually has the best resolution and processing power on the list.
Since it’s Pioneer, you know the sound quality and build quality is solid. It automatically syncs with your phone. The buttons on the front of the device can control your phone, and it comes with special software that makes it easier to use your phone as a DJ station. If you don’t care about any features and just want to Bluetooth in and listen to your tunes, here you go.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
It’s got no screen, for one thing. On a list of head units that have screens, it’s sort of an issue that it doesn’t have one. If you don’t want to use your cellphone as a central component of your car’s audio system, then get the Jensen instead. It’s got great Bluetooth capabilities and actually has a screen.
It’s also, somewhat surprisingly, not very good if you want to run a bunch of amps. You’d think Pioneer would make a product that worked well for audio nuts, but they really strived to keep the SPH simple and friendly. They sacrificed a lot of inputs and outputs to do that. If you have your heart set on driving a ton of amplifiers to get the best audio quality possible, then we are sorry. You’ll be spending the money on the other Pioneer above.

Pros

Ultra-simple to use
Good audio quality
Inexpensive

Cons

No built-in screen
No low-level outputs

10. Best Single DIN Flip-Out Alternative: Camecho Single DIN Car Stereo

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Why we like it: The Camecho is a bit of an insane pick. It’s a single DIN unit with a backup camera, but the screen is in the face rather than a fold-out.
Editor’s Rating:

At A Glance:
Bluetooth
USB, Micro SD, and Aux inputs
Backup camera included
Ultra-compact
Reasons to Buy
We talked about the pros and cons of generic electronics when we broke down the CarThree. This has all the same ideas. In fact, as if to drive home the point, it uses the same remote and backup camera as the CarThree despite calling itself a Comecho.
What makes the Camecho really interesting is that it has all the advantages of a single DIN flip-out screen. It’s compact, has a screen that doesn’t interfere with anything, and adds modern features to older cars. The difference is that it doesn’t have a flip-out screen. It just has a tiny screen built into the front.
The lack of a flip-out screen makes this thing cheap. Like really, really cheap. You could buy two of these for the price of the already very reasonable Regetek.
Reasons to Pick Something Else
Take everything bad we said about the CarThree and amplify it. It’s harder to use and even harder to figure out. It’s got a ton of unlabeled buttons, and some of the menus have poor English. You’ll spend a lot of time just trying things out. This isn’t a unit for someone that just wants something that works. If that’s all you want, get the BOSS, like we keep saying.
The screen is also tiny. That’s the big downside to the lack of a flip-out. Yeah, it’s a single DIN with a screen, but you’ll have to push your face into it to tell what’s going on. That’s not conducive to safe driving.

Pros

Cheap
Includes a backup camera
Ultra-compact

Cons

Terrible documentation
Screen is tiny

All About Head Units
We gave a brief overview in the beginning, but there’s where it gets complicated. Audio components are a mess of numbers and acronyms. Unless you have experience with them, it can get very confusing quickly, so we wrote this section to decode and demystify all the jargon.
Inputs
To say that audio formats have evolved over the last couple of decades would be the understatement of the year. Car audio went from tapes, to CDs, to DVDs, to ⅛” auxiliary, to Bluetooth, and finally to dedicated car apps in a blink.
Nowadays, the average head unit has to cover so many bases it can be hard to keep track of what it can and can’t do. It can be even harder to know what format you want and which ones you don’t need, and whether you should adapt to a head unit or buy one that suits you. Let’s take a second to break down the more popular inputs.
Radio
AM/FM radio has been around since the late 1800s and is still used today to transmit music and information. It probably won’t be going anywhere since it’s still the primary way to find information on roads and emergency situations.
A common antenna is all you need to receive AM/FM radio. HD radio is a much newer invention. It’s usually transmitted from satellites, and you do need a special antenna. You also need to pay for a subscription. It works around the world. If you regularly drive to areas that don’t have cell connectivity and are remote enough that radio doesn’t reach you, you can still get satellite.
CD/DVD
The oldest technology you’ll find in modern head units are CD/DVD players. Physical media has been on its way out for a while, and we are starting to see companies offer models without them altogether. Budget units especially, like the Regetek we recommend, choose to cut costs and complexity by removing the CD/DVD drive.
That has a couple benefits. First, a unit with a CD/DVD drive must be at least as big as a CD/DVD, whereas one without can be smaller. Second, the engineers can dedicate more power and processing to Bluetooth, which is honestly what most people care about nowadays.
USB/SD
USB, and SD card, inputs occupy a weird space in audio. They were meant to be the evolution of CDs and DVDs as physical media. They were competing with other forms of media that didn’t require a physical device, though. They never became very popular.
However, if you want to store a lot of ultra high-quality music files, like a library of FLAC, or a lot of movies, then a USB drive can be nice. It can also be helpful if your phone is dead since a card or USB drive works without extra power. Most people will simply use the USB on a head unit to charge their phone, though.
AUX
It’s easiest to think of AUX inputs the same way you think of wired earbuds or headphones. The head unit and much larger car speakers simply take the place of the much smaller speakers in earbuds. That means any device you can use earbuds for, you can use to play music through your car.
You will need to get an aux audio cable that fits the device and the head unit. Usually, both sides are ⅛”, but sometimes phones have micro ports or don’t have a headphone jack at all.
Bluetooth
Bluetooth is a form of wireless communication between devices. If you are using the internet, then chances are you have a Bluetooth device somewhere nearby. That’s why it makes so much sense that car audio began to focus on Bluetooth. You can load music files on your phone or stream music straight to the head unit without wires getting in your way.
Android Auto/Apple CarPlay
The newest players on the list are dedicated programs that integrate seamlessly with a cell phone. Unfortunately, it’s pretty rare in the flip-out scene. The only one we recommend is the Pioneer AVH-3400.
Built-In Apps
Some head units, like our premium pick, have apps and services pre-installed onto them. Pandora radio and Spotify are the two most common, but other streaming services or brand-specific programs pop up from time to time. It’s nice if you can get WiFi or cell service where you are, but they don’t tend to be as convenient as phone driven services.
A/V Inputs
Extra audio and video inputs, usually “component” or RCA inputs, can allow you to do cool things like run a video game console or backup camera.
Outputs
Outputs are less varied than inputs, but they are still an important thing to consider. The biggest consideration surrounds the rest of your audio system. If you want to run dedicated amps or high-quality speakers, you will need to make sure that the head unit has the right outputs and power ratings.
High-level vs. Low-level
High-level outputs are just your standard speaker outputs. It’s a thin wire that connects directly to a speaker. It’s also how a factory sound system hooks everything together. If you don’t want to change anything, then it’s fine to just have speaker level outputs. All head units have high-level outputs, even the CarThree piece of… fine audio tech.
Low Level, also called preamp or RCA, are for connecting your head unit directly to an amplifier. Many amplifiers don’t have high-level inputs. That makes it super important to make sure that a unit has low-level outputs if you want to drive big subs or get loud. The BOSS we recommend has front, rear, and low-level subwoofer outputs, covering all your bases.
Most aftermarket head units will have low-level outputs for a monoblock amp to power a subwoofer at the very least. The budget-friendly Regetek has high-level outputs and a dedicated subwoofer low-level output, for instance. That’s a great compromise between amping an entire system and losing out on that sweet bass.
Wattage
Whenever anyone talks about watts, it’s essential to make the distinction between RMS and peak power. Peak wattage is not a very useful measurement, it’s just a big number that advertisers like to put on the box. The problem is that peak only represents what the amp or head unit can do for a very short time.
The unit wouldn’t even last one song sustaining that level, no matter what the box says. The BOSS we recommend up there likes to claim 85-watts on the box, but the actual output is lower because 85 is just the peak.
RMS is the average power level that an amp can sustain. Most head units don’t produce very much power on their own. That saves you the trouble of having to match speakers to the power rating. Most factory speakers and entry-level aftermarket speakers are simply in the range of the average head unit.
The minute you start looking into the world of amplifiers, it becomes important to match wattages. Here’s a great article from elsewhere online that breaks it down. They mostly talk home theater audio there, but the concepts are identical.
Video
Since a car has to be an entire entertainment system nowadays, it makes sense that modern head units can control audio and video. That way, if you put in a DVD, or stream Netflix, you can use the head unit to power a bigger screen in addition to the tiny one they come with. Many companies make headrest or flip-down screens that can be used to entertain passengers. It’s important to look for video out if you want to make your car a theater. Generally, any “do all” head unit will have RCA out, like the BOSS we pretty much constantly refer to.
A Primer on Screens
Screen specifications come in two main flavors: the type and the resolution. The type is easy enough. There aren’t very many different types, and with modern technology, you likely won’t notice any differences unless you have them side by side.
It does get confusing since manufacturers like to name their screens in a way that sounds good. That can mean that two different makers will call the same type of screen different things. Tom’s hardware has a rundown on them here, if you are curious.
It’s honestly best to not worry about it very much. You aren’t buying a flip-out screen to get an amazing screen. If you really want the best quality video, get a floating screen or double DIN unit. Resolution is another matter, though. The higher the pixel density, the better the image will look.
Resolution
Screens can get confusing since, just like with wattage, manufacturers like to give you the best sounding numbers. Those numbers aren’t usually the most useful, though. The Jensen on our list boasts a meager 800×480 resolution on the box, and the letters HD don’t even appear. The Pyle, however, has the amazing 1440×234 display as high definition. You might be inclined to think that the Pyle is the clear victor here, right?
Except if you do some quick math, the Jensen has 384k pixels. Compare that to the Pyle’s 336k, and the Jensen has higher pixel density. The image will be sharper and look better on the Jensen. That doesn’t make the Pyle bad. It’s still a good looking screen. Just be aware that it’s never as simple as what the marketing department wants you to think.
Something to keep in mind is that no matter what, you aren’t getting an amazing screen. That just isn’t an option in flip outs, they have to be lightweight and low powered. It’s tough because your average cell phone has incredible resolution by comparison.
An iPhone XR has a resolution of 1792×828. That’s over 1.4 million pixels, several times more than even the best flip-out. It’s why we weren’t just being cheeky when we said the Pioneer SPH that uses your cell phone as a screen is probably the best looking screen on any unit.
Upgrade Your Factory Head Unit ASAP
No matter what, even if you grab the funky error-riddled Camecho, you are getting a big upgrade on the average factory single DIN system. So don’t worry too much about choosing the perfect head. Go with your gut; select the one that speaks to you after making sure it has the inputs and outputs you want.
You have the power to turn your commute into a zen experience after splicing in some wires. Maybe get in a few episodes of your favorite baking show during your lunch break. You do you. Just do you with better audio than the average old stereo. More

There are people out there who like it when their cars look beat up. Gambler racers, 24 hours of LeMons, your weird uncle who calls it “derelict style.” Most people don’t and would prefer their car to remain undented. Dents are an inescapable part of life, however. It’s a good thing that a bunch of companies make excellent products to unbend your car.

Tapping Out the Dent Repair Kit Basics
Traditionally, dent repair uses welders, grinders, and men with masks to cut out the offending panels and replace them. Fortunately, the modern era has brought us a ton of options for the home DIYer. Most of the options won’t even hurt your paint.
If you already know what you’re doing, you can jump straight ahead to our product list to find what you need.
PDR
PDR stands for paintless dent repair. That’s because you don’t have to repaint your car after you use the tools. There are two ways to do a paintless dent repair.
Push on the Dent From Behind
Take a tool, get it behind the dent, and pound the dent out. If you can get the piece of bodywork off the car, then hammers like the Neiko set on the list work great.
If you can’t, long thin tools like the Mookis are your answer. They can get in and behind dents. Then you either beat on the rods with a hammer or pry against things to give you a mechanical advantage.
Compared to the pulling tools, they take way more experience and practice to use right. You can use them to make any shape you want, which makes the training worth it if you are serious about doing a lot of bodywork.
Pull the Dent Out From the Face
The second style of dent removal comes in the form of pulling on the dent. Modern glues are fantastic. To grip the dent, so to speak, you glue studs to the surface.
You can also use a suction up. In traditional dent removal, you would weld studs onto the surface or drill holes to set anchors where you destroy the paint. Unless you really have a nasty dent, you don’t need to destroy the paint.
Kinds of Pullers
When you get a dent kit, it will come with some kind of tool for pulling on the dent out. There are four main types.
T-Bar or Slide Hammer
A T-bar or other style of slide hammer is used to apply a lot of force in a quick, sharp motion. When you slide the weight up the handle, it strikes a stop that jerks the tool away from whatever it’s attached to. It takes some practice to use right, but it can offer a lot more fine control and doesn’t require the amount of space that other tools need. The T-bar also doubles as a handle for pulling with good old manual force.
Bridge Type Puller
A bridge puller has two or more feet attached to stand-offs and holds a bolt suspended over your dent. It bridges the gap over the dent, hence the name. You glue the pad to the dent, attach it to the bolt, then start unscrewing the bolt. As it rises through the device, it will pull the dent out. These are very simple and intuitive; they just take a while to set up.
Squeeze Style
These tools go by many names, but basically, they have two arms that you squeeze together to pull up on the glued tab. You get more leverage than just pulling by hand, and it’s faster than a bridge-style puller.
Suction Cup
Suction cup style tools are the most basic, least effective tools on the market. They only work on dents that are a certain shape, and they will never have the control or versatility that other types have. They are ridiculously cheap though, so it doesn’t hurt to try them out.
What’s in the Box?
Kits never include absolutely everything. Even Ikea expects you to have a small hammer, so when you look for a PDR kit, you know that something is going to be missing.
The most complete kit on our list is the Anyyion – but they sell a kit that is even bigger and includes multiple sizes of hammer. It’s gigantic, yet it still doesn’t include a Phillips screwdriver for adjusting the puller tension.
The point is that you will have to choose what tools you are willing to source elsewhere. If the kit doesn’t include a glue gun, you will need to provide your own. If it doesn’t come with a slide hammer, you will have to decide if you need one or not.
Is it Easy to Use?
Let’s face it, the whole point of buying a kit is to make the dent disappear as easy as possible. Different types of tools are inherently more straightforward than others. Bridge type tools are easier to use than body hammers, but the easier it is to use, the less versatile it is. You won’t be able to fix as many types and kinds of dents with easier to use kits.
There are all sorts of kits that span the entire quality and price spectrum. One of the nice things about the kits on this list is that even the lower quality ones have a lot of value, so you can’t go wrong. If you get a kit that doesn’t do exactly what you want, it’s easy to simply add a few things here and there and make it perfect.

Top 10 Best Dent Repair Kits 2020

1. Best PDR Kit Overall: Gliston Auto Dent Puller Kit

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Why we like it: Gliston’s kit is the perfect balance between ease of use, price, and the completeness of the kit. If you only want to order one item and get right into repair, Gliston has you covered.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
Inside the box is everything you need to get straight to work, minus a few small hand tools. You get the glue gun, a squeeze type puller, a variety of pads, a hammer, glue, scrapers, and a few small punches.
You also get a cheap, nearly useless bridge tool that you probably won’t use. It’s not as complete as a monster kit like the Anyyion, but it doesn’t lack anything you need.
Our only suggestion is to pick up some better scraping tools, like these plastic chisels. The good news is that any extras will fit in the generous canvas bag they include with the kit.
How Easy Is It to Use?
We are confident anyone could get good results from this kit. The squeeze type “Golden Dent Remover” is about as easy to use as they come. Unless you need to do a lot of shaping, it is as easy as glue and squeeze. Just remember to work slowly; these types of dent pullers work best in small areas. It’ll work out big dents, but only if you do it a little at a time.
Our Thoughts
There are more complete kits, like the Anyyion, and there are less expensive kits, like the Arisd, but none have the value that Gliston brings. That value comes in two forms.
First, the quality is good. The tool is metal and well built, the tabs are thick and not likely to fail, and the glue gun melts glue. That’s honestly all you can ever really ask from a hot glue gun. The second thing that gives it value is the fact that it includes enough stuff in the kit to just get right into pulling dents.
We do have a few things to nitpick. We always do; being an expert nitpicker is in the job description, so don’t go thinking there’s something badly wrong just because we criticize it. The instructions that Gliston includes are garbage. Get online and watch other people use it on forums or youtube, and throw away the paper it comes with.
Also, the kit is complete, but it could really use a better scraper. Oh, and the bridge tool is not the best. That’s fine, honestly. Just use the Golden Lifter instead and get a Manelord bridge tool if you really need one.

Pros

Amazing value
Includes everything you need
Dent puller is super easy to use

Cons

Included instructions are garbage
It would be nice if they had better scrapers

2. Best Premium PDR Kit: Anyyion 69pc PDR Kit

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Why we like it: The Anyyion kit has absolutely everything you need, and a case to carry it in.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
Everything. Or rather, everything but a bridge puller. That’s fine because you get a squeeze puller and a slide hammer. Those tools, along with the massive selection of tabs, will cover any dent that can be fixed by a puller. The glue gun is good, the hammer and sets are good, and you get a toolbox to store it all in.
How Easy Is It to Use?
It may seem like the most challenging part of using this kit is choosing how to tackle the problem. There’s a lot of options, and knowing which method for which dent does take a lot of work. The truth is that the hardest part is getting familiar with the T-bar. The whole kit just takes more thinking and practice than the Gliston or Manelord bridge kit.
Our Thoughts
Excuse us for a minute while we talk about something incredibly boring. Keeping organized, especially when you have a set of tools with many tiny parts, is hard. It will ruin your whole day if you go to grab a tool and it’s missing a single nib that you need right now. The fact that Anyyion includes a nice toolbox to store their entire kit in says a lot about their product: they get it. They make sure there’s no excuse for not staying organized.
The big ouch moment comes when you see the price because it’s twice as much as everything else on the list. That can make it hard to justify. The AUTOPDR kit also has a case and a cheap bridge tool. It’s half the price and will work fine once or twice. If you need higher quality, especially if you plan on doing a lot of bodywork, you won’t be disappointed with this kit despite the cost.

Pros

Includes everything you need
Comes in a carrying case
Tools are high quality

Cons

Expensive
Not as easy to use as other kits

3. Best Bridge-Style PDR Kit: Manelord Auto Body Repair Tool

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Why we like it: This is the best bridge tool on our list. If you’re looking for that specific tool, this is the one to buy.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
You get a bridge tool and some tabs. That leaves you to source your own glue gun and glue, which is not ideal. The bridge tool is the best on our list, though. It’s well built and is more comfortable to use than other bridge tools, like the one included in our budget pick Yoohe kit.
How Easy Is It to Use?
Bridge tools are super easy to use already, but Manelord makes it even easier by designing a bridge tool with quick-connect tabs. The only reason it’s not the easiest thing to use on our list is because of the fact that you have to source your own glue and a glue gun. That can be tough; if you get the wrong glue, you won’t get the most out of the tool.
Our Thoughts
The Manelord bridge tool is high quality, easy to use, and relatively inexpensive. It really demonstrates the best reasons to get bridge tools over other tools. There are better tools for big dents, but none are as easy to use or as inexpensive.
The fact it is so good at being a bridge tool also means that it also exemplifies the downsides of bridge tools. It takes forever to use compared to other tools, for one thing. It also isn’t good for spanning larger dents. If you have large dents, get a slide hammer kit like the Manelord one we recommend here. It’s not a coincidence that you see the brand Manelord a lot on our list. They make great quality bodywork tools.

Pros

High Quality
Well designed
Inexpensive

Cons

Does not include a glue gun. They do sell a kit with one, but it’s rarely in stock.
It’s not good for big dents

4. Best Hammer and Dolly Set: Neiko 20709A

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Why we like it: If you are serious about bodywork, you need a set of hammers. This one is great.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
A hammer is used to pound the metal against a shaped anvil looking thing called a dolly. The hammers have different shapes, so you can use them to stretch or dimple the metal in different ways. The dollies are curved to allow you to bend the metal into different shapes. This kit has 4 dollies and 3 hammers for a total of 8 dolly shapes and 6 hammer shapes. That should keep you busy.
How Easy Is It to Use?
The Neiko hammer set is not easy to use. Other than the fact that a hammer works like a hammer and everyone knows how to use one, there is nothing intuitive or straightforward about shaping metal. It takes practice, patience, and a willingness to mess up horribly for a while.
That being said, if you are serious about dent removal and are willing to take the time to learn, you can do anything with this set. For instance, tab pullers can’t do anything for a crease. A hammer can work it out, no problem.
Our Thoughts
The Neiko kit includes everything you need to get started in autobody work. In a case too, which is nice. Just don’t make the mistake of thinking that you will buy this and suddenly be the next Foose. It takes time to build up the skills to shape metal.
It’s also important to note that this is a good starter set, not professional tools. It’s cheap and works fine, but the quality is nowhere near acceptable for a full body shop.
You’ll also want to pair it with some dent removal rods. You don’t have to splurge on the Mookis rods we recommend; as there are plenty of cheaper ones that work ok. They are essential for working on the metal you can’t reach, though.

Pros

The set gives you a good amount of shaping options
Inexpensive
Comes in a carrying case

Cons

Not easy to use at all
Quality could be better

5. Best Budget PDR Kit: Yoohe 22pc

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Why we like it: The Yoohe kit here comes with a bridge tool, pads, and a glue gun. That’s everything you need for basic dent repair.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
The kit includes a bridge tool, glue, glue gun, and some pads. That’s a pretty spartan kit compared to others, but it’s honestly all you need. If you already have a glue gun, save $5 and get a bridge kit without it. Although, $5 for a hot glue gun is a pretty good deal, so you might as well grab it.
How Easy Is It to Use?
It’s hard to find an easier kit, honestly. One of the biggest advantages of a bridge style tool over one of the squeeze tools is how intuitive they are to use. The main part of the device is a big screw. If you handed it to a toddler, they would figure out how to operate it. Except for the glue gun. Don’t give toddlers hot glue guns.
The downside is that it takes a long time. A squeeze tool is just like, click, and squeeze. A bridge tool is all like “turn, turn, turn, turn, dangit my wrist is tired.”
Our Thoughts
We’ll head off the first issue right out of the gate. There is a suction cup tool here that is way cheaper. So why is this our budget pick?
It’s because this kit is a complete kit, one, and it will actually work for a variety of dents, two. A suction cup device is cheap because it doesn’t work very well. You get what you pay for, as it were.
Speaking of which, we have another bridge style kit on our list here. That one is higher quality, easier to use, and not much more expensive. If you just want to test the waters, the Yoohe is fine. Just don’t expect Snap-On quality from Harbor Freight prices.

Pros

Complete kit with glue gun
Very easy to use
Inexpensive

Cons

Quality could be better
Takes a while to get dents out

6. Best Versatile PDR Kit: AUTOPDR 48pc

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Why we like it: This kit has both styles of easy to use dent puller and a hot glue gun. Then they stuff it into a soft case so you won’t lose anything.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
You get a punch, a glue gun, tons of tab shapes, a hammer, a bridge-style puller, and a squeeze style puller in the kit. That’s pretty much the entire range of tools in the PDR department. The only thing you might be left wondering about is where is the slide hammer.
If you really need a slide hammer, though, it’s not that this kit is missing it. It’s just that you should buy a different kit more suited for larger dents like the Anyyion above.
How Easy Is It to Use?
You honestly couldn’t ask for better. It has both the incredibly intuitive bridge puller and the clamp and squeeze type of puller. Like with the Gliston, you could stand to get a better scraper to make your life a little easier. This kit comes in a case, though, so not only is it easy to use, it’s easy to clean up.
Our Thoughts
We love it when tools come with their own case. We love it when PDR kits come with the glue gun. We love being able to choose between the ant jaw clamping squeezy tool and the traditional bridge puller. There’s just a lot to love when it comes to AUTOPDR’s offering.
The direct comparison for the AUTOPDR kit is the Gliston, and, unfortunately, that’s when our love runs out. It’s just not nearly as high quality, and it’s only a little cheaper. The bridge tool is better in the AUTOPDR kit, so if that’s important to you, then definitely go with this one. If you can get together another $10, though, the Gliston will last longer and be a little less frustrating.

Pros

It’s a very complete kit
The bridge tool is better than the Gliston kit’s
Very easy to use

Cons

The general quality isn’t very high
Not very good for large dents

7. Best T-Bar Puller Kit: Manelord T-Bar with Upgrade Tabs

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Why we like it: A T-bar is a super versatile tool, and this kit comes with a bunch of tab options to make dent pulling easy.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
Inside this kit, you get a T-bar and some tabs to pull on with it. You don’t get an easy to use pulling tool, you don’t get glue or a glue gun, and you certainly don’t get a case to carry it around in. If you need a T-bar and want to make sure it includes some extras, it’s perfect. If you want the whole kit, the much more expensive Anyyion is up top.
How Easy Is It to Use?
Using a T-bar or any slide hammer takes some practice. It’s nowhere near as simple as using a bridge tool or a squeeze tool. It’s a lot more versatile, though. Slide hammers can be used in places where there is no other surface to pry against. That means, unlike bridge or squeeze tools, you can use them on large dents and work very quickly. Usually, you’ll want to glue on a lot of tabs ahead of time. You move the tool around a lot from tab to tab and slowly pull out a huge area.
Our Thoughts
Let us just come right out and say it, if you are serious about dent repair, you need a T-bar. They aren’t easy to use, and they aren’t as cool as one of the alien mandible-looking doohickies, but they work on areas where everything else won’t.
We do wish it had a glue gun and glue in the kit. It just makes things a lot nicer when you don’t have to source the glue. That being said, this isn’t really a beginner kit. This kit is more for someone that already has a beginner kit and wants to up their game, and in that regard, it’s fantastic.
Like, if you bought the Gliston and found a dent that’s just a little bigger than you want to tackle with the Gold Puller, pick up this one here. It’s still a little cheaper to do it that way than to buy the Anyyion kit that includes one. Plus, you can build your kit over time instead of relying on a random company to do it for you.

Pros

Great tool for tackling large dents
Includes high-quality pull tabs
Makes a great addition to other kits

Cons

Takes some time to learn to use
Doesn’t include glue

8. Best Inexpensive Complete PDR Kit: ARISD 32pc

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Why we like it: ARISD is a perfect kit for someone that is on a tight budget but still wants a squeeze style tool.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
The box contains an inexpensive puller, glue gun, bridge tool, and a handful of bits and pieces. It’s not as complete as anything else, really, even the AUTOPDR kit is more comprehensive. It does include everything you need to just jump in and do it though.
How Easy Is It to Use?
The ARISD kit is very easy to use except one thing: you might not have the tool you want to use in the kit. Not a total deal-breaker or anything. It’s just that you might find yourself reaching for a hammer that isn’t there, unlike more complete, more expensive kits. That can lead to some hair pulling, which is never easy to deal with.
Our Thoughts
This kit is cheap. If you’re wanting to fix a few dents on your daily and don’t really care about getting a high-quality tool, it’s perfect. The quality will really let you down if you want to do a lot of dent repair. The bridge tool is pretty bad, the squeeze tool rattles, and the scrapers aren’t great.
It’s still a better thing to buy than a suction cup puller, despite what the internet might tell you. You will really get a good feel for whether or not pulling dents is something you want to do, or if you should take it to a shop instead. This is one of the few budget kits that include a squeeze style dent lifter. It’s not great quality, but it will definitely work well enough for a few small jobs.

Pros

Inexpensive
Includes a glue gun
Generally easy to use

Cons

Some common tools are not included
Quality isn’t very high

9. Best Advanced Dent Removal Rod Kit: Mookis Rod Set

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Why we like it: Rod tools are indispensable tools for dent repair, and this set includes a ton of shapes and sizes for tackling all manner of dents.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
In a rolled-up travel bag, you’ll find ten differently shaped rods. You also get a hammer, some chain that you can use as a leverage device, and a small punch. That may not seem like a lot, but it really is a ton of versatility and use from a small kit. Dent rods allow you to reach into an area that you wouldn’t otherwise be able to access and pound out a dent from behind. It’s not just the best tool for the job; it’s pretty much the only tool for the job.
How Easy Is It to Use?
Dent rods are not easy to use. The price of failure is not as high as it is with bodywork hammers, but it still takes a lot of practice to make them work for you. The big distinction between a hammer kit like the Neiko and a set of rods like this one is the amount of metal you shape per tap. A hammer moves a lot of material; if you strike it wrong, you can add a huge dent. Tapping on a rod only moves a bit of metal. It takes a long time to get a dent out, but if you miss it’s not a big deal.
Our Thoughts
These are expensive and hard to use. They have a gigantic learning curve. They are intimidating, and it is amazingly frustrating to work with a tool like this for hours and hours and see no results. Rod tools take a lot of time, no matter how you slice it. At least this kit is really, really good quality.
They are absolutely indispensable if you plan on making your car look the best it can. Sorry everyone that wants everything to just be cheap and easy, but pulling tools have their limitations. Don’t get us wrong, if you have some small dents, a tool kit like the Gliston is absolutely perfect. It will pop the dent, and you’ll be happy. For the few of you restoring a 69 Camaro and need to pop a crease out of the roof, though, you should pick up a set like this one.

Pros

Amazing for detail work
The best tool for reaching hard to reach areas
Great quality

Cons

Expensive
Hard to use

10. Best Cheap Suction Cup: ABN Dent Puller

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Why we like it: It’s everything that it says on the package. A cheap rite of passage dent remover that can work on very small, uniform dents.
Editor’s Rating:

What You Get
A suction cup. That’s it. It’s just a suction cup in some clamshell packaging.
How Easy Is It to Use?
It’s really, really easy to use. You stick it to the dent and pull. That’s pretty much the end of it. The downside is that there are only a small range of dents that a suction cup puller works with. If you don’t have a dent that’s uniform, small, and in thin metal, then it doesn’t matter how easy it is to use in theory because it won’t work.
Our Thoughts
Here it is, the suction cup dent puller. It’s required to include one on any list discussing dent removal, and it’s the first thing that DIY car care people buy in hopes that it will work. We can’t stop you from getting one because it’s like a rite of passage. They are super cheap, and they all seem to have the same video of a really enthusiastic guy sporting a goatee happily pulling out a dent and showing the world how amazing and easy the suction cup puller is.
Then it arrives, you try it on your car, and 95% of you will come back and get the Gilston kit.
That’s because they just don’t work very well on most dents and dings. First, the dent has to be uniform so the suction cup can seal against it. Second, it has to be just a little bigger than the tool. Not too big or deep, you won’t have the strength to pull it out, and not too small, or you will pull on the metal around the dent instead of the dent.
This particular one from ABN is at least a good size. Most of the ones in discount stores are way too big to be useful for anything, but the ABN is only 2” in diameter. We know you’re curious about it and have the same morbid fascination with super cheap tools that we all do, so we won’t’ say anything when we see it sitting on your workbench collecting dust. Just maybe grab a bridge puller like this one too so that you don’t have to wait for it to ship.

Pros

Cheap
Good size
Owning one makes you part of a worldwide club of people who know better but do it anyway.

Cons

It only works in perfect conditions
Even when it works other solutions will look better

All About Paintless Dent Removal
Buying the dent removal tool is actually the easiest part of the process. Removing dents is fairly tricky no matter which tool you choose to use. That’s not awesome, we’ll admit, but don’t worry. Read through this and you’ll do great.
Types of Dents
The first thing you have to know is how your car is dented. It’s just like how a doctor has to know what kind of disease the snotty child next door had before knowing what medicine to give you.
Round Dents and Small Dings
Ever seen a car get hit by a golf ball? That causes a round dent. Round dents are easily removed by most pulling type dent removers, like the Manelord bridge tool above. Smaller round dents rarely take more than a couple of pulls and are the only time you’ll see a suction cup device like the ABN shine.
The good news is round dents are the most common dents. In fact, according to the internet, shopping carts are the single worst thing for cars ever. Round dents are also caused by hail, a light tap from a car backing into you, or your buddy headbutting your car after a long night at the bar. All those can be solved with most PDR tools.
Sharp Dents
As we move into sharper dings and dents, we start to move away from the world of pulling tools. They can do an ok job on smaller areas, but you’ll get better results by learning to use a set of rods like this kit we talked about. When metal takes a sharp object to the surface, it has a high chance of distorting. That means you stop being able to just pop the dent out and start entering the world of shaping metal.
Creases
Fixing a crease dent is about the extent of a DIY kit. Even with a combination of high strength PDR tools like the Anyyion and body rods like in the Mookis kit, you will have difficulty getting a creased panel to look like new. If you can remove the panels and pound on them, you can use hammers like these on our list to re-shape the metal. At that point, you are leaving the realm of paintless repair and entering the realm of having to repaint.
Serious Damage
Once you get into serious damage, you leave the world of dent repair kits behind. You have options still. Some are good options, like cutting out the damage and rebuilding it or using welded studs to do some serious shaping. Some are bad options, like using gallons of Bondo. Regardless, severe damage is usually best left to shops that specialize in repair.
Paintless Dent Repair Tips and Tricks
Once you know the symptom and have bought the medicine, here’s some info to get you started on the right foot.
Watch Some YouTube Videos
For some reason, car YouTubers love to show off dent repair. Take advantage of that and watch a few; it will really get you prepared to do it yourself. The guys in this Eastwood video do a great job working through the process, but if you search for the type of tool you want to use and decide that, there’ll be a video catering for you too.
Work in Small Increments
Most of dent repair is about sneaking up on the issue and fixing it in small increments. When you use a bridge tool or other puller, it’s best to use small movements and do less. Slowly add more pulling and larger areas as you go.
Practice on Soda Cans
The final exam in bodyshop class makes you use a TIG welder to weld a new shaped panel onto an aluminum can that you cut out of a different can. You don’t have to get that crazy, but it’s a good idea to spend some time working soft metal into different shapes. Then you know what the tools you bought will do to your car.
Mind the Heat
If your car gets hot, the glue won’t set. If the glue doesn’t set, you have a bad time. Usually, just keeping your car out of the sun is enough to keep it cool.
Mind the Cold Too
The cold makes paint brittle, glue brittle, and hands brittle. Those are all widely considered bad things. Brittle paint can crack or be pulled off by the glue, which elements the whole paintless part of paintless dent removal. Use some strong lights pointed at the dent if you are working in a cold shop, that’s sufficient.
Don’t Expect Perfect Results Your First Time
In fact, don’t expect perfect results even if it’s the fourth or fifth time you are doing it. It takes a ton of time and skill to get really good at dent repair. What you can do is get good results that take the edge away from an ugly dent.
Get Shaping
Hopefully, after reading this, you feel inspired. You can get rid of that dent that’s been on your Camry for the last 3 years. You can finally get around to working the rash out of your project drift missile. You can remove the dent you put into your sister’s car that one time you crashed your bike into her door while showing off to your friends. Grab a kit and start gluing. More